CH14B-2006 FINALHaircutting Principles
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Cosmetology: Haircutting Principles Milady’s Standard Cosmetology MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides “People who say it cannot be done should not interrupt those who are doing it.” Anonymous MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Objectives • Identify reference points on the head form and understand their role in haircutting. • Define angles, elevations, and guidelines. • List the factors involved in a successful client consultation. • Demonstrate the safe and proper use of the various tools of haircutting. MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Anatomy of the Skull • Reference points • Parietal ridge • Occipital bone MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides • Apex • Four corners MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Areas of the Head • • • • Top Front Sides Crown • Nape • Back • Fringe MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Lines and Angles • Line • Angle MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides • Straight Lines – Horizontal – Vertical – Diagonal • Angles MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides • Angles MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Elevation • Below 90 degrees – builds weight • Above 90 degrees – removes weight MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Cutting Guidelines • Cutting Line MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides • Stationary guide • Traveling guide MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Elevation Examples • Blunt, one-length cut • 90 degree elevation • Overdirection MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Client Consultation • • • • What does client want? How much time is available? What is lifestyle? What is preferred look (classic or trendy)? MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Identifying Face Shape • Pull hair back or wrap with towel. • Note length and width of face. • Note balance of features. – Weight and volume – Profiles MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides • • • • Hair Analysis Density Texture Wave patterns Hairlines and growth patterns MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Tools, Body Position, Safety • Cutting shears • Thinning shears • Straight razor MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides • • • • • • • Clippers Edgers Styling comb Cutting comb Barber comb Wide-tooth comb Sectioning clips MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Holding Shears MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Palming the Shears MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Holding the Razor MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Posture and Body Position • Position client – Sitting straight – Legs not crossed • Center your weight – Knees slightly bent, not locked – Bend one knee to lean slightly • Stand in front of section being cut MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Positions for Different Cutting Angles • Cutting over your fingers • Cutting below fingers • Cutting palm-to-palm MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides General Haircutting Tips • • • • • • Consistent and clean partings Take care with crown and neckline Take care around ears Use consistent tension Pay attention to head position Maintain even moisture MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides • • • • • • Always work with the guideline Always cross-check the haircut Use mirror to see elevation Stand in front to check side length Remember curly hair shrinkage Maintain correct body and hand posture MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Curly Hair Tips • • • • • • Shrinks more than straight hair Use minimal tension – wide tooth comb Naturally “graduates” itself Expands more than straight hair Don’t use a razor Select texturizing techniques carefully MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Curly Hair Cuts MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides • The bang area Fringe MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Cutting Fringe • • • • • Can use stationary guide Short bangs make strong statement Slide-cut long fringe Cut small portion of fringe To blend or not blend? MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Razor Cutting • Good for medium to fine textures • Effective for blonde hair • Guide is cut above fingers MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Razor Cutting Tips • Avoid using on coarse, wiry, or damaged hair • Always use a guard • Always use a new blade • Keep hair wet • Hold razor at an angle; never force MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides • • • • Slide-Cutting Used to cut or thin hair Blends shorter hair to longer Useful in texturizing Perform only on wet hair MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides • • • • Shears-Over-Comb Hair held in place with comb Tips of shears remove length Used to create short tapers Best on dry hair MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides • Lift hair with comb; comb acts as guide • Do not hold hair between fingers • Shears and comb move up head together • Strive for continual motion MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Shears-Over-Comb Tips • • • • Stand in front of client Place combo Move comb up head Angle comb to blend with longer hair MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides • • • • More Tips Work with small areas. Start at hairline and work up. Cross-check work diagonally. Use barber comb for close areas. MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Texturizing with Shears • • • • • • • Point-cutting Notching Free-hand notching Slithering or effilating Slicing Carving Carving the ends MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Texturizing with Thinning Shears • Remove bulk or weight • Remove weight from ends • Thinning shears-over-comb MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Texturizing with a Razor • Removing weight • Free-hand slicing • Razor-over-comb MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Safety in Haircutting • • • • • • Palm shears Do not cut past second knuckle Take care around ears Balance shears and place knuckles Use razor guard Dispose of blades carefully MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Sanitation Procedures • • • • • • • Wash hands Sweep up hair Drape client Sanitize implements Replace razor blade Maintain shears Sanitize workstation MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Summary and Review • What are the reference points and what are their functions? • What are the main areas of the head and how do you find them? MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides • Define elevation and describe the different effects it creates. • What is the difference between traveling and stationery guidelines, and when do you use each? • Define overdirection. MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides • What are the important considerations to discuss with a client during a haircutting consultation? • Explain the difference between hair density and texture. MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides • Where are the danger zones in a haircut and why do you need to be aware of them? • What is palm-to-palm cutting? MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides • Explain the importance of proper posture and body position. • List disinfection and sanitation procedures that must be followed when performing a haircut. MILADY’S Standard COSMETOLOGY Instructor Support Slides Congratulations! You’ve just completed one unit of study toward program completion.
