Chapter 23-Facial Makeup

Cosmetology:

Facial Makeup

Milady’s

Standard

Cosmetology

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MILADY’S

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COSMETOLOGY

Instructor Support Slides

“Always look at what you have left. Never look at what you have lost”

Robert Shuller

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Objectives

• Describe the different types of cosmetics and their uses

• Demonstrate an understanding of cosmetic color theory

• Demonstrate a basic makeup procedure for any occasion

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Objectives

• Identify different facial types and demonstrate procedures for basic corrective makeup

• Demonstrate the application and removal of artificial lashes

• List safety measures to be followed during makeup application

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Enhancing Natural Beauty

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Cosmetics

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Foundation Chemistry

• Liquid

• Cream

• Mineral powder

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Foundation Selection and Use

• Match to skin tone

• Blend with disposable makeup sponge

• Avoid lines of demarcation

• Mineral powder is applied with fluffy brush

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Concealers

• Use to cover blemishes and discolorations

• Match color to skin

• Apply with sponge or disposable cotton swab

• Use sparingly and soften edges

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Face Powder

• Adds matte finish, absorbs oil, and

“sets” foundation

• Mixture of talc or cornstarch and pigment

• Uses binders like zinc stearate

• Applied with large powder brush

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Cheek Color

• Called blush or rouge

• Comes in powder, gel, or cream

• Used to add natural glow and color

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Lip Color

• Lipstick or gloss

– Formulas of oils, waxes, and dyes

• Lip liner

– Used to outline lips; keeps lip color from feathering; coordinate with lip color

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Eye Shadows

• Make eyes brighter and more expressive

• Forms

• Colors

– Highlight color

– Base color

– Contour color

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Eyeliners

• Used to outline and emphasize the eye

• Consist of wax or hardened oil base with color additives

• Apply with short strokes and gentle pressure

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Eyebrow Color

• Used to add color and contour brows

• Chemistry similar to eyeliner pencils

• Avoid harsh contrasts with haircolor

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Mascara

• Used to darken and thicken lashes

• Chemistry

• Pigments

• Application

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Other Cosmetics

• Eye makeup removers

• Grease paint

• Cake (pancake) makeup

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Makeup Brushes

• Powder brush

• Blush brush

• Concealer brush

• Lip brush

• Eye shadow brushes

• Eyeliner brush

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Makeup Brushes

• Angle brush

• Lash and brow brush

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Makeup Tools

• Tweezers

• Eyelash curler

• Sponges

• Powder or cotton puffs

• Mascara wands

• Spatulas

• Disposable lip brushes

• Sponge-tipped shadow applicators

• Cotton pads or puffs

• Pencil sharpener

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Color Theory

• Primary colors

• Secondary colors

• Tertiary colors

• Complementary colors

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Warm and Cool Colors

• Warm

• Cool

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Determining Skin Color

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Selecting Makeup Colors

• Light skin color

• Medium skin color

• Dark skin color

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Color Selection Steps

• Determine skin level

• Determine skin undertone

• Determine eye color

• Determine complementary colors

• Determine hair color

• Choose eye makeup colors

• Coordinate cheek and lip colors

• Apply makeup

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Complementary Colors for Eyes

• Neutrals: safest

• Blue eyes

– Gold, peach, copper, mauve, plum, taupe, camel

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• Green eyes

– Brown-based reds, red-orange, red-violet, violet, coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauve, and purples

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• Brown eyes

– Can wear any color: greens, blues, grays, silvers

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• Cheek and lip color

– Coordinate in same color family as eye makeup

• Hair color and eye color

– Hair color impacts the complementary colors chosen

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Client Consultation

• Consultation area

• Lighting

• Gather information

• Sell retail

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Makeup Application Supplies

• Cleansers, astringent, toner, moisturizer

• Bases, concealers, face powders, cheek colors, lip colors, lip liners, eye shadows, eyeliner pencils, mascara

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Makeup Application Supplies

• Towels, draping sheets, makeup cape, headband or hair clips, eyelash curler, assorted makeup brushes, small makeup palette

• Disposable applicators, sponges, tissues, sharpener, cotton, spatulas

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Makeup Application

Preparation

• Perform client consultation

• Wash hands

• Drape client

• Apply cleanser

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Preparation

• Remove cleanser

• Apply astringent lotion or toner

• Apply moisturizer

• Groom eyebrows

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Makeup Application Procedure

• Apply foundation

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Procedure

• Apply concealer

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Procedure

• Apply powder

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Procedure

• Apply eye color

• Apply eyeliner

• Apply eyebrow color

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Procedure

• Apply mascara

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Procedure

• Apply cheek color

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Procedure

• Apply lip color

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Cleanup and Sanitation

• Discard disposable items

• Disinfect implements

• Clean and sanitize brushes

• Place towels and linens

• Sanitize work station

• Wash hands

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Striking Contour Eyes

• Base color from lashes to brow

• Medium tone on lid

• Medium to deep tone in crease and blend

• Highlight shadow under brow bone

• Eyeliner from outside corner tapering in

• Shadow over eyeliner


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Striking Contour Eyes

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Dramatic Smoky Eyes

• Encircle with gray, brown, or black liner

• Smudge eyeliner

• Dark shadow from upper lash to crease

• Repeat on lower lash line

• Highlight color to upper brow area


• Add individual or band lashes

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Dramatic Smoky Eyes

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Special Occasion–Cheeks

• Add definition under cheekbones

• Use shimmer or glitter for highlight

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Special Occasion–Lips

• Line lips and fill with lip pencil and blot

• Add lip color

• Apply gloss to center of lips

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Corrective Makeup

• Emphasizes good features

• Minimizes imperfections

• Highlighting is used to emphasize

• Shadowing minimizes features

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Analyzing Face Shapes

• Oval

• Round

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• Square

• Triangular

• Heart-shaped

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• Diamond

• Oblong

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Forehead Area

• Low forehead

• Protruding forehead

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Nose and Chin Areas

• Large or protruding nose

• Short and flat nose

• Broad nose

• Protruding chin and receding nose

• Receding chin

• Sagging double chin

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Jawline and Neck Area

• Broad jawline

• Narrow jawline

• Round, square, or triangular face

• Short, thick neck

• Long, thin neck

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Corrective Makeup for the Eyes

• Round eyes

• Close-set eyes

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• Bulging eyes

• Heavy-lidded eyes

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• Small eyes

• Wide-set eyes

• Deep-set eyes

• Dark circles

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Eyebrows

• The ideal eyebrow shape

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Eyebrows

• Low forehead

• Wide-set eyes

• Close-set eyes

• Round face

• Long face

• Square face

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The Lips

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The Lips

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Skin Tone and Wrinkles

• Ruddy skin (red)

• Sallow skin (yellow)

• Minimizing wrinkles with foundation

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Artificial Eyelashes

• Band or strip lashes

• Individual lashes

• Adhesive

• Allergy test

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Band Application Supplies

• Wet sanitizer

• Headband/ hair clip

• Tweezers

• Cotton swabs/pads

• Eyelash brushes

• Adjustable lamp

• Makeup chair

• Lash adhesive

• Trays

• Cleanser

• Eyelash remover

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Band Application

Supplies

• Eyelash curler

• Hand mirror

• Manicure scissors

• Makeup cape

• Pencil sharpener

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Band Lash Preparation

• Give client consultation

• Wash hands

• Seat client

• Drape client

• Remove contact lenses

• Remove eye makeup

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Band Lash Procedure

• Prepare lashes

• Shape eyelash strip

• Feather lash

• Apply adhesive

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Band Lash Procedure

• Apply the lash

• Apply lower lash (optional)

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Removing Band Lashes

• Commercial preparations

• Soften with warm water and gentle cleanser

• Start at outer corner

• Lift gently

• Use cotton tips to remove makeup or adhesive

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Individual Lashes

• Known as eye tabbing

• Individual lashes

• Synthetic

• Attached directly to client’s eyelashes

• Follow manufacturer’s directions

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Safety Precautions

• Wash hands

• Drape properly

• Protect hair and skin

• Keep fingernails smooth

• Use sanitized brushes and implements

• Use shaker for loose powder

• Pour lotions from bottles

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• Use clean spatulas and applicators

• Use spatula and disposable applicators for lip color

• Use antiseptic on tweezed areas of brow

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• Discard disposables

• Place towels and linens in hamper

• Keep workstation sanitary and neat

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Summary and Review

• What is the main objective of makeup application?

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• List 8 types of facial cosmetics and how they are used

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• Name the different types and uses of foundation

• Name 3 types of cheek color

• Name 3 types of eye shadow and how they are used

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• List the primary and secondary colors

• Name the colors in the warm and cool ranges

• What are complementary colors?

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• List the cosmetics used in a basic makeup procedure in the order they are applied

• What are the 7 facial types?

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• Name and describe the 2 types of artificial eyelashes

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• List at least 10 safety precautions for makeup applications

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Congratulations!

You’ve just completed one unit of study toward program completion!

Chapter 23-Facial Makeup

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