# Wave Motion (pg. 3) - Coxsackie

```Name: ________________________________
Computer Lab: “Wave Erosion &amp; Deposition”
Date: ____________________________
Lab Period: _______ Lab Day: _______
Directions: Answer the following questions using
http://tinyurl.com/kn7nayo
A. Home (Introduction)
1. What will you be exploring in this module? ________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
B. Overview
Wave Anatomy (p. 2):
2. What is a breaker? ____________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________
Wave Motion (pg. 3):
3. Click the “Zoom” on the far right of the diagram then read the last paragraph in the text
column. Explain why waves “break” as they near the shore. _____________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
Wave Refraction (p. 4)
4. What is wave refraction? ______________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________
5. In shallow water, waves slow down and ___________ until they are nearly parallel with the
shore. In deep water, waves travel ________ and approach the shore at an ___________.
Longshore Current (p. 5)
6. What is longshore current? _____________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
7. The movement of water along the shore creates water currents that move sediment
_____________ to the beach (look at the red dot).
Rip Current (p. 6)
8. What is a rip current? _________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
9. What is the key element that forms the majority of rip currents? ________________________
______________________________________________________________________________
10. If you are caught in a rip current, how do you escape? ______________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________
Coastal Deposition Landforms (p. 7)
11. Watch the animation of the sand moving as a result of longshore drift. The sand appears to
pile up and hook around the peninsula. The general term for this sandy feature that sticks out
from the shore is called a “______”
Coastal Erosion Landforms (p. 8)
12. Watch the animation of beach erosion. The tiny rocky island that is located just offshore
from a rocky coastline is known as a ______ __________
Coastal Erosion: Controls (p. 9)
13. Fill out the chart below.
Control
Feature
What is it?
How does it affect erosion/deposition?
Groin
Jetty
Seawall
Breaker
C. Model
If time allows, click on this tab. Explore how you can control beach erosion and deposition
between neighboring properties.
```