ROCKY MOUNTAIN LIFE
OR,
STARTLING SCENES
AND
PERILOUS ADVENTURES
IN THE
FAR WEST
DURING AN EXPEDITION OF THREE YEARS.
BY RUFUS B. SAGE.
PREFACE.
The following work was written immediately after the author had returned from
the perilous and eventful expedition which is here narrated. The intense interest
which every citizen of the Union feels in relation to that vast region of our country
lying between the Mississippi and the Pacific Ocean, will, it is believed, render
the publication of a volume like this of more than usual importance at the present
time. The lofty cliffs of the Rocky Mountains are soon to echo to the tread of
advancing civilization, as symbolized in the Pacific railway, which will, in a few
years, speed the iron horse and his living freight from Boston to San Francisco,
forming a bond of social and commercial intercourse across the continent.
CONTENTS.
PREFACE.
CHAPTER I.
Objects of a proposed excursion. Primary plans and movements. A Digression.
Rendezvous for Oregon emigrants and Santa Fe traders. Sensations on a first
visit to the border Prairies. Frontier Indians.
CHAPTER II.
Preparations for leaving. Scenes at Camp. Things as they appeared. Simplicity of
mountaineers. Sleep in the open air. Character, habits, and costume of
mountaineers. Heterogeneous ingredients of Company. The commandant. En
route. Comical exhibition and adventure with a Spanish company. Grouse. Elm
Grove. A storm. Santa Fe traders. Indian battle.
CHAPTER III.
The Pottowatomies. Crossing the Wakarousha. Adventure at the Springs. The
Caw chief. Kansas river and Indians. Pleading for whiskey. Hickory timber.
Prairie tea. Scenes at the N. Fork of Blue. Wild honey. Return party.
Mountaineers in California. Adventure with a buffalo. Indian atrocities. Liquor and
the Fur Trade. Strict guard. High prices.
CHAPTER IV.
Country from the frontiers to Big Blue; its geological character, &c. Novel cure for
fever and ague. — Indian trails. — Game. — Large rabbits. —Antelope, and their
peculiarities. —Beaver cuttings. — Big Blue and its vicinity. — Dangerous
country. —Pawnee bravery. —Night-alarm, (Prairies on fire.) —Platte river. —
Predominant characteristics of the Grand Prairies, and theory explanative of their
phenomenon. — Something to laugh at. —"Big Jim" and the antelope.
CHAPTER V.
Deserted camp. Big Jim's third attempt as a hunter. Buffalo and other particulars.
Big Jim lying guard. Butchering. Strange selections. Extraordinary eating, and
excellence of buffalo meat. Brady's Island. The murderer's fate. Substitute for
wood. A storm. Game in camp. Strange infatuation. Tenacity of buffalo to life,
and how to hunt them. Cross S. Fork of Platte. Big Jim's fourth adventure.
CHAPTER VI.
Ash Creek. Pawnee and Sioux battle-ground. Bread-root. The Eagle's Nest. Mad
wolf. Number and variety of prairie wolves, —their sagacity. Mad bull. Making
and curing meat. Big Jim still unfortunate. Johnson's creek. McFarlan's Castle.
Deceptiveness of distances. Express from the Fort. Brave Bear. Bull Tail. Talk
with the Indians. Speech of Marto-cogershne. Reply. Tahtungah-sana's address.
CHAPTER VII.
The Chimney. A bet. Spur of the Rocky Mountains. Scott's Bluff. Romantic
scenery. Mimic city. A pyramid. A monument. An elevated garden. Mountain
sheep. An Eden. Death in camp. The wanderer's grave. Horse creek and gold.
Goche's hole. Arrival at Fort Platte. Remarks by the way. Prairie travel. Locality
and description of the Fort. Indian lodges. Migratory habits of mountain and
prairie tribes. Scenes at Fort. Drunken Indians. Tragical event. Indian funeral.
Speech of Etespa-huska on the death of his father.
CHAPTER VIII.
Coast clear, and Trade opened. More visitors. Smoking out the natives. Incident
illustrative of Indian character. Expeditions for trade. Black Hills Rawhide. An
Indian and a buffalo chase. Deep snow, extreme cold, and painful journey. L'eauqui-court. Remarks. Lost. White river; its valley, fruits, and game. Building site.
The Devil's Tea-pot. Troubles with Indians. Theft and its punishment. Indian
soldiers. Christmas extras. Outrageous conduct. Rascality of traders. "That Old
Serpent." Indian superstition, religious tenets and practices. Notions upon
general morality.
CHAPTER IX.
Dangers connected with the liquor trade. Difficulty with Bull Eagle. Scenes of
bloodshed and horror. Cheating in the fur trade. How the red man becomes
tutored in vice. A chief's daughter offered in exchange for liquor. Indian mode of
courtship and marriage. Squaws an article of traffic. Divorce. Plurality of wives.
CHAPTER X.
Tahtunga-egoniska. High gaming. Weur-sena Warkpollo, a strange story. The
Death Song, a tale of love. Medicine-men. Extraordinary performance of
Tahtunga-mobellu. Wonderful feats of jugglery.
CHAPTER XI.
Food for horses. Squaws and their performances. Dogs and dog-meat. Return to
Fort. Starvation. Travel by guess. Death from drinking. Medicine-making. A
Burial. Little Lodge and the French trader. A speech in council. Journey to White
river. High winds and snow. Intense sufferings and painful results.
CHAPTER XII.
Another drunken spree. Horses devoured by wolves. An upset. A blowing up.
Daring feat of wolves. A girl offered for liquor. Winter on the Platte. Boat building.
Hunting expedition. Journey up the Platte. Island camp. Narrow escape. Snow
storm. Warm Spring. Pass of the Platte into the prairies. A valley. Bitter
Cottonwood. Indian forts. Wild fruit. Root-digging. Cherry tea and its uses.
Geology of the country. Soils, grasses, herbs, plants, and purity of atmosphere.
Horse-shoe creek. A panther. Prairie dogs and their peculiarities.
CHAPTER XIII.
The Creek valley. The Platte as a mountain stream. Cañon. Romantic prospect.
Comical bear story. Perilous encounter with a wounded bull. Geological remarks.
Division of party. Safety of spring travel. La Bonte's creek. Remarks by the way.
Service-berry. Deer Creek. General observations. Moccasin making. Box-elder.
Bear killed. Excellence of its flesh. Different kinds of bears in Oregon and the
mountains. The grizzly bear, his nature and habits.
CHAPTER XIV.
Desperate encounter with a grizzly bear, and extraordinary instance of suffering.
Close contest. A comical incident. Cross Platte. Cañon camp. Sage trees.
Mountain sheep, and all about them. Independence Rock; why so called, and
description of it. Devil's Gate. Landscape scenery.
CHAPTER XV.
Return route. Oregon trail from Independence Rock through the South Pass.
Cross the Sweet Water and Platte. Mountain Fowl. Journey up Medicine Bow.
Dangerous country. A fight with the Sioux. The "Carcague." A surprise. Visit to
the Crow village. Number and character of the Crow nation. Selling a prisoner for
tobacco. Description of Laramie Plains.
CHAPTER XVI.
Sibille's-hole. Novel bitters. Chugwater. Gold. Curiosity. Affairs at the Fort.
Amusements. Gambling among squaws, and games played. Squaw dresses,
and riding fashion. Items of interest to the curious, proving the intercourse of the
ancient Romans with the people of this continent.
CHAPTER XVII.
Singular exhibition of natural affection. Embark for the States. Scarcity of
provisions and consequent hardship and suffering. Extraordinary daring of
wolves. Difficulties of navigation. Novel diet. Fishing. A fish story, and another to
match it. A bull story. Hard aground and dismal situation. Extreme exposure.
Cold, hungry, and wet. Again afloat. Re-supply of provisions. Camp on fire. A
picture of Platte navigation. Country north of river. Adventure with a bull. Indian
benevolence. Summary of hardships and deprivations. Abandon voyage.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Hunting excursion. Thirst more painful than hunger. Geological observations.
Mournful casualty. Sad scene of sepulture. Melancholy night. Voyage in an
empty boat. Ruins of a Pawnee village at Cedar Bluff. Plover creek. Cache
Grove. Thousand Islands. Abandon boat. Exploring company. A horrible
situation. Agony to torment. Pawnee village. Exemplary benevolence of an Indian
chief. Miserable fourth of July. Four days' starvation. Arrival at Council Bluff.
Proceed to Independence.
CHAPTER XIX.
The country between the Pawnee village and Bellevieu, and from that to Fort
Leavenworth. Leave Independence for the Mountains. Meet Pawnees. Indian
hospitality. Journey up the South Fork Platte. Fort Grove. Beaver creek. Bijou.
Chabonard's camp. Country described. Medicine Lodge. The Chyennes; their
character and history. Arrive at Fort Lancaster. Different localities in its
neighborhood. Fatal Duel. Ruins.
CHAPTER XX.
Old acquaintances. Indian murders. Mode of travelling in a dangerous country.
Mexican traders. Summary way of teaching manners. Fort Lancaster and
surrounding country. Resume journey. Cherry creek and connecting
observations. Sketch of the Arapahos, their country, character, &c. Camp of free
traders. Blackfoot camp. Daugherty's creek. Observations relative to the Divide.
Mexican cupidity. Strange visitors. The lone travellers. Arrive at the Arkansas.
General remarks. Curious specimens of cacti. Fontaine qui Bouit, or Natural
Soda fountain. Indian superstition. Enchanting scenery. Extraordinary wall of
sandstone.
CHAPTER XXI.
Vicinity of the Arkansas. Settlement. The Pueblo. Rio San Carlos, its valleys and
scenery. Shooting by moonlight. Taos. Review of the country travelled over.
Taos; its vicinity, scenery, and mines. Ranchos and Rancheros. Mexican houses;
their domestic economy, and filth. Abject poverty and deplorable condition of the
lower classes of Mexicans, with a general review of their character, and some of
the causes contributing to their present degradation. The Pueblo Indians and
their strange notions. Ancient temple. Character of the Pueblos. Journey to the
Uintah river, and observations by the way. Taos Utahs, Pa-utahs, Uintah and
Lake Utahs. The Diggers; misery of their situation, strange mode of lying, with a
sketch of their character. The Navijos; their civilization, hostility to Spaniards,
ludicrous barbarity, bravery, &c., with a sketch of their country, and why they are
less favorable to the whites than formerly.
CHAPTER XXII.
Uintah trade. Snake Indians; their country and character. Description of Upper
California. The Eastern Section. Great Salt Lake and circumjacent country.
Desert. Digger country, and regions south. Fertility of soil. Prevailing rock and
minerals. Abundance of wild fruit, grain, and game. Valley of the Colorado.
Magnificent scenery. Valleys of the Uintah and other rivers. Vicinity of the Gila.
Face of the country, soil &c. Sweet spots. Mildness of climate, and its
healthiness. The natives. Sparsity of inhabitants. No government. All about the
Colorado and Gila rivers. Abundance of fish. Trade in pearl oyster-shells.
Practicable routes from the United States.
CHAPTER XXIII.
Minerals. Western California. The Sacramento and contiguous regions. Principal
rivers. Fish. Commercial advantages. Bay of San Francisco. Other Bays and
Harbors. Description of the country; territory northwest of the Sacramento;
Tlamath Mountains; California range and its vicinity; southern parts; timber, riverbottoms; Valleys of Sacramento, del Plumas, and Tulare; their extent, fertility,
timber, and fruit; wild grain and clover, spontaneous; wonderful fecundity of soil,
and its products; the productions, climate, rains, and dews; geological and
mineralogical character; face of the country; its water; its healthiness; game;
superabundance of cattle, horses, and sheep, their prices, &c.; beasts of prey;
the inhabitants, who; Indians, their character and condition; Capital of the
Province, with other towns; advantages of San Francisco; inland settlements;
foreigners and Mexicans; Government; its full military strength. Remarks.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Visitors at Uintah - Adventures of a trapping party. The Munchies, or white
Indians; some account of them. Amusements at rendezvous. Mysterious city, and
attempts at its exploration, —speculation relative to its inhabitants. Leave for Fort
Hall. Camp at Bear river. Boundary between the U. States and Mexico. Green
valleys, &c. Country en route. Brown's-hole. Geological observations. Soda,
Beer, and Steamboat springs; their peculiarities. Minerals. Valley of Bear river; its
fertility, timber, and abundance of wild fruit. Buffalo berries. Superior advantages
of this section. Mineral tar.
CHAPTER XXV.
Fort Hall; its history, and locality. Information relative to Oregon. Boundaries and
extent of the territory. Its rivers and lakes, with a concise description of them
severally. Abundance and variety of fish and waterfowl. Harbors and islands.
Oregon as a whole; its mountains and geographical divisions. Eastern Division;
its wild scenery, valleys, soil, and timber; volcanic ravages; country between
Clarke's river and the Columbia. North of the Columbia; its general character.
Middle Division; its valleys, prairies, highlands, and forests. Western Division; a
beautiful country; extensive valleys of extraordinary fertility; productive plains;
abundance of timber, its astonishing size and variety. A brief summary of facts.
CHAPTER XXVI.
Climate of Oregon; its variableness; its rains; a southern climate in a northern
latitude. Productiveness; grain, fruits, and flowers, wild and cultivated. Geological
characteristics. Soils and prevailing rock. Minerals, &c. Variety of game. Wolves.
Horses, and other domestic animals. Population, white and native; Indian tribes,
their character and condition. Missionary stations, and their improvements.
Present trade of Oregon. Posts of the Hudson Bay Company. Settlements.
Oregon City, its situation and advantages; about Linnton; about Wallammette
valley, Fualitine plains and Umpqua river; Vancouvre, and its superior
advantages. Kindness of Hudson Bay Company to settlers.
CHAPTER XXVII.
The manufacturing facilities of Oregon. Commercial and agricultural advantages
reviewed. Rail Road to the Pacific. Route, mode of travelling, and requisite
equipment for emigrants. Importance of Oregon to the United States. Incident in
the early history of Fort Hall. Why the Blackfeet are hostile, and bright spots in
their character. Mild weather. Leave for the Platte. Journey to the Yampah, and
sketch of the intermediate country. New Park. Head of Grand river. The
landscape. Different routes to Fort Lancaster. Old Park.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
From Grand river to Bayou Salâde. Observations by the way. Description of the
Bayou. Voracity of magpies. Journey to Cherry creek. Country en route. Crystal
creek. Abundance of game. Antelope hunting. Remarkable sagacity of wolves.
Snow storms and amusement. Ravens. Move camp. - Comfortable winter
quarters. Animal food conducive to general health and longevity. A laughable
instance of sound sleeping. Astonishing wolfine rapacity. Beaver lodges and all
about beaver. Hunting excursion. Vasques' creek, its valleys, table lands,
mountains, and prairies. Camp. Left alone. Sensations, and care to avoid danger.
A nocturnal visitor. Thrilling adventure and narrow escape. A lofty specimen of
"gettin down stairs." Geological statistics.
CHAPTER XXIX.
Return to the Fort. Texan recruiting officer. New plans. Volunteer. The Chance
Shot; or Special Providence. Texan camp. Country contiguous to the Arkansas,
from Fontaine qui Bouit to the Rio de las Animas. Things at rendezvous. A
glance at the company. Disposal of force. March up the de las Animas. The
country; Timpa valley, and its adjoining hills, to the de las Animas. The latter
stream; its cañon, valley and enchanting scenery. Tedious egress. Unparalleled
suffering from hunger, toil, and cold. Wolf flesh and buffalo hide. Painful
consequences of eating cacti. A feast of mule meat after seven days' starvation.
Camp at the Taos trail. The adjacent country. Strict guard. A chase. The meet
reward for treason.
CHAPTER XXX.
March down the Cimarone. Junction of the two divisions. Country between the de
las Animas and the Cimarone. Perilous descent. Cañon of the Cimarone. Soil
and prevailing rock. A fort. Grandeur and sublimity of scenery. Beauty of rocks.
Cimarone of the pain. Fruits and game. Wide spread desolation. A dreary
country. Summer on the Desert. Remarks. Encounter with Indians. Nature's
nobleman. Wild horses and different modes of catching them. Failure of expected
reinforcements. March into the enemy's country. Ancient engravings upon a rock.
Boy in the wolf's den. A man lost. Forced march. Torment of thirst. Remarks. The
lost found. Expulsion for cowardice, —its effect.
CHAPTER XXXI.
Mexican camp. Pursuit. Advance upon Mora. Enemy discovered. Country
between the Rio de las Animas and Mora; its picturesque beauty. Admirable
point of observation. Fortified position. Battle of the pass; order of attack,
passage of the river, storming the enemy's camp, and number of killed, wounded
and prisoners. Council of war. Prisoners released. Message to Amijo. Return
march. Mexican army. Attacked, and results of action. Mexican bravery. Retreat.
Cross the Table Mountain. New species of wild onions. March down the de las
Animas. Discouragements accumulate. Disband. Sketch of factions. Texan
prisoners. Arrival of reinforcements. Battle of the Arroyo: killed, wounded, and
prisoners. Retreat of Amijo. "Stampede." Frightful encounter with the Cumanches
and Kuyawas. Discharge of troops. Affair with Capt. Cook. Surrender to U. S.
Dragoons, and failure of expedition. Return to Texas. Journey to the Platte.
Country between the Arkansas and Beaver creek. Feasting at camp. Crows'
eggs. Lateness of season. Snow-storm in June. An Indian fort. Serio-comico
adventure with a wolf. Indians. Song of the night-bird.
CHAPTER XXXII.
Lost. Night on the Prairie. Head of the Kansas river. Mineral Country. Gold.
Wonderful incident relative to a wounded bull. Indians. Join the Arapahos.
Moving village. Country between Beaver creek and the Platte. Cañon. Reach
Fort Lancaster. Fortune bettered. News from the States. Murder. Extraordinary
instances of human tenacity to life. Arrival of Indians. Theft. Chyenne outrage.
Return of Oregon emigrants. "Old Bob," and his adventures. A "Protracted
Meeting," or Indian Medicine-making. Indian oath. Jaunt to the mountains.
Mountain scenery. Camp on Thompson's creek. Wild fruits. Concentration of
valleys. Romantic view. A gem in the mountains. Grand river pass. Salt lakes.
Astonishing scope of vision. The black-tailed deer. Peculiarity in horses.
Remarkable natural fortification. Return. Travelling by guess.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
Newspapers. False reports. Singular grasses. Sale of skins at Fort Lancaster. An
excursion. An incident. Camp. Huge horns. Leopard. Panther. Slaughter of
eagles. Dressing skins. The hunter's camp. Vasques' creek. The weather. Return
of comrade to Fort. Sweets of solitude. Exposure in a snow-storm. The cañon of
S. Fork Platte. A ridge. A valley. Beautiful locality. Choice site for a settlement.
Flowers in February. A hunting incident. Fate of the premature flowers.
Adventure with a sheep. Discovered by Indians. A pleasant meeting. Camp at
Crystal creek. Thoughts of home. Resolve on going. Commence journey. The
caravan. "Big Timber." Country to the "Crossing." Big Salt Bottom. Flowers. A
stranger of other lands. Difficulty with Indians. "Friday." Tedious travelling. No
timber. Detention. Country. Pawnee Fork. Mountain and Spanish companies,
Spy Buck, the Shawnee war-chief. Pawnee Fork.-Cure for a rattlesnake's bite.
Further detention. Sketch of adjacent country. Pawnee Rocks. En route with
Friday. Musquetoes. Observations. Friday as a hunter.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
The Arapaho American, a sketch of real life. Tenets of the mountain Indians in
reference to a future state of rewards and punishment. The "water bull." Country
between Cow creek and Council Grove. Inviting locality for settlement. Sudden
rise of water. Separate routes. Dangerous travelling. Osage village. Osages, and
all about them. Arrival at Van Buren, Arkansas. Concluding remarks
ROCKY MOUNTAIN LIFE.
CHAPTER I.
Objects of a proposed excursion. Primary plans and movements. A Digression.
Rendezvous for Oregon emigrants and Santa Fe traders. Sensations on a first
visit to the border Prairies. Frontier Indians.
MY purpose in visiting the Rocky Mountains, and countries adjacent, having
hitherto proved a fruitful source of inquiry to the many persons I meet, when
aware of my having devoted three years to travel in those remote regions, and I
am so plied with almost numberless other questions, I know of no better way to
dispose of them satisfactorily, than by doing what I had thought of at the outset,
to wit: writing a book.
But, says one, more books have been already written upon subjects of a kindred
nature, than will ever find readers. True, indeed; yet I must venture one more;
and this much I promise at the start: it shall be different, in most respects, from all
that have preceded it; and if I fail to produce an agreeable variety of adventures,
interwoven with a large fund of valuable information, then I shall not have
accomplished my purpose.
Yet, why did I go? —what was my object? Let me explain: Dame Nature
bestowed upon me lavishly that innate curiosity, and fondness for things strange
and new, of which every one is more or less possessed. Phrenologists would
declare my organ of Inquisitiveness to be largely developed; and, certain it is, I
have a great liking to tread upon unfrequented ground, and mingle among
scenes at once novel and romantic. Love of adventure, then, was the great
prompter, while an enfeebled state of health sensibly admonished me to seek in
other parts that invigorating air and climate denied by the diseased atmosphere
of a populous country. I also wished to acquaint myself with the geography of
those comparatively unexplored regions, —their geological character, curiosities,
resources, and natural advantages, together with their real condition, present
inhabitants, inducements to emigrants, and most favorable localities for
settlements, to enable me to speak from personal knowledge upon subjects so
interesting to the public wind, at the present time, as are the above. Here, then,
were objects every way worthy of attention, and vested with an importance that
would render my excursion not a mere idle jaunt for the gratification of selfish
curiosity. This much by way of prelude, —now to the task in hand.
While yet undecided as to the most advisable mode of prosecuting my intended
enterprise, on learning that a party of adventurers were rendezvoused at
Westport, Mo., preparatory to their long and arduous journey to the new-formed
settlements of the Columbia river, I hastened to that place, where I arrived in the
month of May, 1841, with the design of becoming one of their number. In this,
however, I was doomed to disappointment by being too late. A few weeks
subsequent marked the return of several fur companies, from their annual
excursions to the Indian tribes inhabiting the regions adjacent to the head-waters
of the Platte and Arkansas rivers, whose outward trips are performed in the fall
months. Impatient at delay and despairing of a more eligible opportunity, for at
least some time to come, I made prompt arrangements with one of them, to
accompany it, en route, as far as the Rocky Mountains, intending to proceed
thereafter as circumstances or inclination might suggest. This plan of travelling
was adhered to, notwithstanding the detention of some three months, which
retarded its prosecution.
I would here beg indulgence of the reader to a seeming digression. The peculiar
locality of the places to whose vicinity he is now introduced, owing to the deep
interest cherished in the public mind relative to the Oregon country, will doubtless
call for more than a mere passing notice: I allude to the towns of Independence
and Westport. Situated as they are, at the utmost verge of civilization, and upon
the direct route to Oregon and regions adjacent, they must retain and command,
as the great starting points for emigrants and traders, that importance already
assumed by general consent. Their facilities of access from all parts of the Union,
both by land and water, are nowhere exceeded. The proud Missouri rolls its
turbid waves within six miles of either place, opening the highway of steam
communication, while numberless prime roads that converge from every
direction, point to them as their common focus. Thus, the staid New Englander
may exchange his native hills for the frontier prairies in the short interval of two
weeks; and in half that time the citizen of the sunny South may reach the
appointed rendezvous; and, nearer by, the hardy emigrant may commence his
long overland journey, from his own door, fully supplied with all the necessaries
for its successful termination.
Independence is the seat of justice for Jackson county, Mo., about four hundred
miles west by north of St. Louis, and contains a population of nearly two
thousand. Westport is a small town in the same county, near the mouth of the
Kansas river, —three miles from the Indian territory, and thirty below the U.S.
Dragoon station at Fort Leavenworth. The regular routes to Santa Fe and Oregon
date their commencement at these places. The country in this vicinity is
beginning to be generally settled by thrifty farmers, from whom all the articles
necessary for travellers and traders, may be procured upon reasonable terms.
Starting from either of the above points, a short ride bears the adventurer across
the state line, and affords him the opportunity of taking his initiatory lessons amid
the realities of prairie life. Here, most of the trading and emigrant companies
remain encamped for several weeks, to recruit their animals and complete the
needful arrangements, prior to undertaking the toilsome and dangerous journey
before them.
The scenery of this neighborhood is truly delightful. It seems indeed like one
Nature's favored spots, where Flora presides in all her regal splendor, and with
the fragrance of wild flowers, perfumes the breath of spring and lades the
summer breeze with willing incense;— now, sporting beside her fountains and
revelling in her dales, —then, smiling from her hill-tops, or luxurating beneath her
groves.
I shall never forget the pleasing sensations produced by my first visit to the
border-prairies. It was in the month of June, soon after my arrival at Westport.
The day was clear and beautiful. A gentle shower the preceding night had
purified the atmosphere, and the laughing flowerets, newly invigorated from the
nectarine draught, seemed to vie with each other in the exhalation of their
sweetest odors. The blushing strawberry, scarce yet divested of its rich burden of
fruit, kissed my every step. The butter-cup, tulip, pink, violet, and daisy, with a
variety of other beauties, unknown to the choicest collections of civilized life, on
every side captivated the eye and delighted the fancy.
The ground was clothed with luxuriant herbage. The grass, where left uncropped
by grazing herds of cattle and horses, had attained a surprising growth. The
landscape brought within the scope of vision a most magnificent prospect. The
groves, clad in their gayest foliage and nodding to the wind, ever and anon,
crowned the gentle acclivities or reared their heads from the valleys, as if planted
by the hand of art to point the way farer to Elysian retreats. The gushing
fountains, softly breathing their untaught melody, before and on either hand, at
short intervals, greeted the ear and tempted the taste. The lark, linnet, and
martin, uniting with other feathered songsters, poured forth heir sweetest strains
in one grand concert, and made the air vocal with their warblings; and the brownplumed grouse, witless of the approach of man, till dangerously near, would here
and there emerge well-nigh from under foot, and whiz through the air with almost
lightning speed, leaving me half frightened at her unlooked for presence and
sudden exit. Hither and yon, truant bands of horses and cattle, from the less
inviting pastures of the settlements, were seen in the distance, cropping the
choice herbage before them, or gambolling in all the pride of native freedom.
Amid such scenes I delight to wander, and often, at this late day, will my thoughts
return, unbidden, to converse with them anew. There is a charm in the
loneliness—an enchantment in the solitude—a witching variety in the sameness,
that must ever impress the traveller, when, for the first time, he enters within the
confines of the great western prairies.
One thing further and I will have done with this digression. Connected with the
foregoing, it may not be deemed amiss to say something in relation to the Indian
tribes inhabiting the territory adjacent to this common camping-place. The
nearest native settlement is some twelve miles distant, and belongs to the
Shawnees. This nation numbers in all fourteen or fifteen hundred men, women
and children. Their immediate neighbors are the Delawares and Wyandotts, —
the former claiming a population of eleven hundred, and the latter, three or four
hundred. Many connected with these tribes outstrip the nearer whites, in point of
civilization and refinement, —excelling them both in honesty and morality, and all
that elevates and ennobles the human character. Their wild habits have become
in a great measure subdued by the restraining influences of Christianity, and they
themselves transformed into industrious cultivators of the soil, —occupying neat
mansions with smiling fields around them.
Nor are they altogether neglectful of the means of education. The mission
schools are generally well attended by ready pupils, in no respect less backward
than the more favored ones of other lands. It is not rare even, considering the
smallness of their number, to meet among them with persons of liberal education
and accomplishments. Their mode of dress assimilates that of the whites,
though, as yet, fashion has made comparatively but small inroads. The
unsophisticated eye would find prolific source for amusement in the uncouth
appearance of their females on public occasions. Perchance a gay Indian
maiden comes flaunting past, with a huge fur-hat awkwardly placed upon her
head, —embanded by broad strips of figured tin, instead of ribbons, —and ears
distended with large flattened rings of silver, reaching to her shoulders; and here
another, solely habited in a long woolen under-dress, obtrudes to view, and skips
along in all the pride and pomposity of a regular city belle! Such are sights by no
means uncommon.
These tribes have a regular civil government of their own, and all laws instituted
for the general welfare are duly respected. They are, also, becoming more
temperate in their habits, fully convinced that ardent spirits have hitherto proved
the greatest enemy to the red man. The churches of various Christian
denominations, established among them, are in a flourishing condition, and
include with their members many whose lives of exemplary piety adorn their
professions.
Taken as a whole, the several Indian tribes, occupying this beautiful and fertile
section of country, are living witnesses to the softening and benign influences of
enlightened Christian effort, and furnish indubitable evidence of the susceptibility
of the Aborigine for civilization and improvement.
CHAPTER II.
Preparations for leaving. Scenes at Camp. Things as they appeared. Simplicity of
mountaineers. Sleep in the open air. Character, habits, and costume of
mountaineers. Heterogeneous ingredients of Company. The commandant. En
route. Comical exhibition and adventure with a Spanish company. Grouse. Elm
Grove. A storm. Santa Fe traders. Indian battle.
AFTER many vexatious delays and disappointments, the time was at length fixed
for our departure, and leaving Independance on the 2d of September, I
proceeded to join the encampment without the state line. It was nearly night
before I reached my destination, and the camp-fires were already lighted, in front
of which the officiating cook was busily engaged in preparing the evening repast.
To the windward were the dusky forms of ten or fifteen men, —some standing,
others sitting a la Turk, and others half-reclining or quietly extended at full length
upon the ground, —watching the operative of the culinary department with great
seeming interest.
Enchairing myself upon a small log, I began to survey the surrounding objects. In
the back ground stood four large Connestoga waggons, with ample canvass
tops, and one dearborn, all tastefully drawn up in crescent form. To the right a
small pyramid-shaped tent, with its snow-white covering, disclosed itself to the
eye, and presented an air of comfort. To the left the caravan animals, securely
picketed, at regular distances of some fifteen yards apart, occupied an area of
several acres. Close at hand a crystal streamlet traced its course, murmuring
adown the valley; and still beyond, a lovely grove waved its branches in the
breeze, and contributed its willing mite to enliven and beautify the scene. The
camp-fires in front, formed a kind of gateway to a small enclosure, shut in as
above described. Here were congregated the company, or at least, that portion of
it yet arrived. Some had already spread their easily adjusted couches upon the
ground, in readiness for the coming night, and seemed only awaiting supper to
forget their cares and troubles in the sweet embrace of sleep.
Every thing presented such an air of primitive simplicity not altogether estranged
to comfort, I began to think it nowise marvellous that this mode of life should
afford such strong attractions to those inured to it.
Supper disposed of, the area within camp soon became tenanted by the
devotees of slumber, —some snoring away most melodiously, and others
conversing in an animated tone, now jovial, now grave, and at intervals, causing
the night-air to resound with merry peals of laughter. At length the sleep-god
began to assert his wonted supremacy, and silence in some measure reigned
throughout camp.
The bed of a mountaineer is an article neither complex in its nature nor difficult in
its adjustment. A single buffalo robe folded double and spread upon the ground,
with a rock, or knoll, or some like substitute for a pillow, furnishes the sole base-
work upon which the sleeper reclines, and, enveloped in an additional blanket or
robe, contentedly enjoys his rest. Wishing to initiate myself to the new mode of
life before me, I was not slow to imitate the example of the promiscuous throng,
and the lapse of a few moments found me in a fair way to pass quite pleasantly
my first night's repose in the open air.
With the first gray of morning I arose refreshed and invigorated, nor even
suffered the slightest ill effect from my unusual exposure to a humid and
unwholesome night-air. The whole camp, soon after, began to disclose a scene
of cheerfulness and animation. The cattle and horses, unloosed from their
fastenings, and accompanied by keepers, were again permitted to roam at large,
and in a short time were most industriously engaged in administering to the calls
of appetite.
After breakfast I improved the opportunity to look about and scan more closely
the appearance of my compagnons de voyage. This opened to view a new field
for the study of men and manners.
A mountain company generally comprises some quaint specimens of human
nature, and, perhaps, few more so than the one to which I here introduce the
reader. To particularize would exceed my limits, nor could I do full justice to the
subject in hand by dealing in generalities;— how ever, I yield to the latter. There
are many crude originals mixed with the prime ingredients of these companies. A
genuine mountaineer is a problem hard to solve. He seems a kind of sui genus,
an oddity, both in dress, language, and appearance, from the rest of mankind.
Associated with nature in her most simple forms by habit and manner of life, he
gradually learns to despise the restraints of civilization, and assimilates himself to
the rude and unpolished character of the scenes with which he is most
conversant. Frank and open in his manners and generous in his disposition, he
is, at the same time, cautious and reserved. In his frankness he will allow no one
to acquire an undue advantage of him, though in his generosity, he will
oftentimes expend the last cent to assist a fellow in need. Implacable in his
hatred, he is also steadfast in his friendship, and knows no sacrifice too great for
the benefit of those he esteems. Free as the pure air he breathes, and proudly
conscious of his own independence, he will neither tyrannize over others, nor
submit to be trampled upon, —and is always prepared to meet the perils he may
chance to encounter, with an undaunted front. Inured to hardship and
deprivation, his wants are few, and he is the last to repine at the misfortunes
which so often befall him. Patience becomes as it were interwoven with his very
nature, and he submits to the greatest disasters without a murmur. His powers of
endurance, from frequent exercise, attain a strength and capacity almost
incredible, such as are altogether unknown to the more delicately nurtured. His is
a trade, to become master of which requires a long and faithful apprenticeship.
Of this none seems more conscious than himself, and woe to the "greenhorn"
who too prematurely assumes to be "journeyman." His ideas, his arguments, his
illustrations, all partake of the unpolished simplicity of his associations; though
abounding often in the most vivid imagery, pointed inferences, and luminous
expositions, they need a key to make them intelligible to the novice.
His dress and appearance are equally singular. His skin, from constant exposure,
assumes a hue almost as dark as that of the Aborigine, and his features and
physical structure attain a rough and hardy cast. His hair, through inattention,
becomes long, coarse, and bushy, and loosely dangles upon his shoulders. His
head is surmounted by a low crowned wool-hat, or a rude substitute of his own
manufacture. His clothes are of buckskin, gaily fringed at the seams with strings
of the same material, cut and made in a fashion peculiar to himself and
associates. The deer and buffalo furnish him the required covering for his feet,
which he fabricates at the impulse of want. His waist is encircled with a belt of
leather, holding encased his butcher-knife and pistols—while from his neck is
suspended a bullet-pouch securely fastened to the belt in front, and beneath the
right arm hangs a powder-horn transversely from his shoulder, behind which,
upon the strap attached to it, are affixed his bullet-mould, ball-screw, wiper, awl,
&c. With a gun-stick made of some hard wood, and a good rifle placed in his
hands, carrying from thirty to thirty-five balls to the pound, the reader will have
before him a correct likeness of a genuine mountaineer, when fully equipped.
This costume prevails not only in the mountains proper, but also in the less
settled portions of Oregon and California. The mountaineer is his own
manufacturer, tailor, shoemaker, and butcher; and, fully accoutered and supplied
with ammunition in a good game country, he can always feed and clothe himself,
and enjoy all the comforts his situation affords. No wonder, then, his proud spirit,
expanding with the intuitive knowledge of noble independence, becomes
devotedly attached to those regions and habits that permit him to stalk forth, a
sovereign amid nature's loveliest works.
Our company, however, were not all mountaineers; some were only "entered
apprentices," and others mere "greenhorns"— taking every thing into
consideration, perhaps, it was quite as agreeably composed as circumstances
would well admit of. In glancing over the crowd, I remarked several
countenances sinister and malign, but consented to suspend judgment till the
character of each should be proven by his conduct. Hence, in the succeeding
pages, I shall only speak of characters as I have occasion to speak of men. As a
whole, the party before me presented a choice collection of local varieties, —
here was the native of France, of Canada, of England, of Hudson Bay, of
Connecticut, of Pennsylvania, of New York, of Kentucky, of Illinois, of Missouri,
and of the Rocky Mountain all congregated to act in unison for a specified
purpose. It might well require the pencil of Hogarth to picture such a motley
group.
Our company had not as yet attained its full numerical strength; a small division
of it was some distance in advance, another behind, and at least two days would
be necessary to complete the arrangements prior to leaving. The idea of
spending two days in camp, notwithstanding the beauty of its location, was by no
means agreeable; but as the case was beyond remedy, I quietly submitted, and
managed to while away the tedious interval as best I could.
A brief acquaintance with our commandant, found him a man of small stature and
gentlemanly deportment, though savoring somewhat of arrogance and selfsufficiency, —faults, by the way, not uncommon in little men. He had been
engaged in the Indian trade for several years past, and had seen many "ups and
downs" in former life. Graduating from West Point in his younger days, he soon
after received the commission of Lieutenant of Dragoons, in the U.S. Army, and
served in that capacity for some six or eight years, on the frontier and at Forts
Gibson and Leavenworth. Possessed of the confidence of his men, his
subsequent resignation was the occasion of much regret with those he had been
accustomed to command. The private soldier loved him for his generous
frankness and readiness to overlook minor offences, even upon the first show of
penitence.
Such unbounded popularity at length excited the jealousy of his brother officers,
and gave birth to a combination against him, which nothing could appease short
of his removal from the army. Aware of his ardent temperament and strong party
notions as a politician, and equally violent upon the opposite side, they managed
to inveigle him into a discussion of the measures and plans of the then
administration of national affairs. Arguing in the excitement of feeling, he made
use of an unguarded expression, denouncing the Chief Magistrate. This was
immediately noted down, and charges were promptly preferred against him, for
"abuse of a superior officer!" The whole affair was then referred to a Court
Martial, composed exclusively of political opponents. The evidence was so strong
he had little to expect from their hands, and consequently threw up his
commission, to avert the disgrace of being cashiered, since which he has been
engaged in his present business.
He appeared to be a man of general information, and well versed in science and
literature. Indeed, I felt highly gratified in making an acquaintance so far
congenial to my own taste.
An accession of two waggons and four men having completed our number, the
morning of September 4th was ushered in with the din of preparations for an
immediate start. The lading of the waggons was then severally overhauled and
more compactly adjusted, and our arms were deposited with other freight until
such time as circumstances should call for them. All was hurry and confusion,
and oft-times the sharp tone of angry dispute arose above the jargon of the
tumultuous throng.
At length the word was given to advance, and in an instant the whole caravan
was in motion; those disconnected with the waggons, mounted upon horseback,
led the van, followed by the teams and their attendants in Indian file, as the loose
cattle and horses brought up the rear. The scene to me portrayed a novelty quite
amusing. I began to think a more comical-looking set could scarcely be found
any where; but the events of the day soon convinced me of my mistake.
Travelling leisurely along for some six or eight miles, strange objects were seen
in the distance, which, on nearer approach, proved a company of Mexican
traders, on their way to Independence for an equipment of goods. As they filed
past us, I had full scope for the exercise of my risibilities.
If a mountaineer and a mountain company are laughable objects, a Mexican and
a Mexican company are triply so. The first thing that excites attention upon
meeting one of this mongrel race, is his ludicrous apology for pantaloons. This is
generally made of deer or buffalo skin, similar to our present fashion, except the
legs, which are left unsewed from the thigh downwards; a loose pair of cotton
drawers, cut and made in like manner, and worn beneath, imparts to his every
movements a most grotesque appearance, leaving at each step of the wearer his
denuded leg, with that of his pantaloons on one side, and drawers on the other
fluttering in the breeze! The next thing that meets the gaze, is his black,
slouching, broad-brimmed hat, (sombrero) though little darker than the features it
obscures, and far less so than the coarse, jet-colored hair that protrudes from
beneath it, and falls confusedly upon his shoulders. Next, if the weather tolerates
the habit, a coarse parti-colored blanket (charape) envelopes the body, from his
shoulders downwards, fixed to its place by an aperture in the centre through
which the head is thrust, and securely girted at pleasure by a waist-band of
leather. His arms, if arms he has, consist of a rude bow and arrows slung to his
back, or an old fusee, not unfrequently without flint, lock, or ammunition; but
doubly armed, and proudly, too, is he who can carry a good rifle with powder and
lead—even if he be ignorant of their use.
Thus appearing, these creatures, some mounted upon mules, with heavy spurs
attached to their heels, (bearing gaffs an inch and a half in length, jingling in
response to the rolling motions of the wearer,) ensconced in bungling Spanish
saddles, (finished with such ample leather skirts as almost hid the diminutive
animal that bore them, and large wooden stirrups, some three inches broad,)
were riding at their ease; while others, half naked, were trudging along on foot,
driving their teams, or following the erratic mules of the caravan, to heap upon
them the ready maledictions of their prolific vocabulary. Passing on, we were
accosted:
"Como lo pasa, cabelleros?"
The salutation was returned by a simple nod.
Habla la lengua Espanola, senors?"
A shake of the head was the only response.
"Es esta el camino de Independenca ?"
No reply.
"Carraho! Que quantos jornadas tenemos en la camino de Independenca?"
Still no one answered.
"Scha! Maldijo tualmas! Los Americanos esta dijabelo!"
By this time the crowd had passed and left us no longer annoyed by its presence.
The conclusion irresistibly forced itself upon my mind," if these are true
specimens of Mexicans, it is no wonder they incite both the pity and contempt of
the rest of the world." Subsequent intercourse with them, however, has served to
convince me that first impressions, in this case, instead of exceeding the reality,
fell far short of the true mark!
Continuing our course, we saw large numbers of prairie-hens, and succeeded in
killing several. These birds assimilate the English grouse in appearance, and are
of a dusky-brown color, — with short tails, and narrow-peaked wings, —and little
less in size than the domestic fowl. Their flesh is tender and of superior flavor.
When alarmed, they start with a cackling noise, and whiz through the air not
unlike the partridge. They are very numerous on the frontier prairies, and extend
to the Rocky Mountains, Oregon, California and New Mexico.
About sundown we reached a small creek known as Elm Grove, and encamped
for the night, with every indication of an approaching storm. Strict orders were
accordingly given for securing the animals, and the process of "picketing" was
speedily under way. This consisted in driving small stakes ("pickets") firmly into
the ground, at proper distances apart, to which the animals were severally tied by
strong cords, —a plan that should find nightly practice among all travellers of the
grand prairies, to prevent those losses which, despite the utmost precaution, will
not unfrequently occur.
Timber proved quite scarce in this vicinity, and it was with great difficulty we
procured sufficient for cooking purposes. The men now began to prepare for the
coming storm. Some disposed of themselves in, and others under, the waggons,
making barricades to the windward; others erected shantees, by means of
slender sticks, planted in parallel rows five or six feet apart, and interwoven at the
tops, so as to form an arch of suitable height, over which was spread a roofage
of robes or blankets, while others, snugly ensconced beneath the ready pitched
tent, bade defiance to wind and weather.
Being one of those selecting a place under the waggons, I retired at an early
hour to snooze away the night; and despite the anticipations of an unpleasant
time, I soon lost myself in a sweet slumber, utterly unconscious of every thing
around me. In thoughts I wandered back to the home of my childhood, to
converse with friends whose names and features fond memory has chained to
my heart, while imagination roamed with delight amid those scenes endeared to
me by earliest and most cherished recollections. But all the sweet pencillings of
fancy were at once spoiled by the uncivil intrusion of a full torrent of water, that
came pouring from the hill-side and forced its impetuous way into the valley
below, —deluging me from head to foot in its descent. My condition, as the
reader may well suppose, was far from being enviable. However, resolved to
make the best of a bad thing, after wringing the water from my drenched
bedding, I selected another spot and again adjusted myself to pass the dreary
interval till morning; this I succeeded in doing, —how or in what manner, it is
unnecessary to say. Sleep was utterly out of the question, and I am quite sure I
never hailed the welcome morn with greater delight than on this occasion.
Others of the company fared almost as bad as myself, and there was scarcely a
dry bed in camp. But the little concern evinced by the mountaineers for their
mishap, surprised me most. They crawled from their beds, reeking with wet, as
good humoredly as though their nocturnal bath had in no wise disturbed their
equanimity, or impaired their comfort.
The morning proved so disagreeable two of our party, who were accompanying
us for the purpose of adventure, concluding this a kind of adventure they were
unwilling to meet, wisely resolved to take the back track, and accordingly left for
home. Towards night the rain ceased, and, the clouds having dispersed, we were
again en route. Travelling on till late, we encamped in the open prairie, and early
the next morning resumed our course. Having reached a small creek, about 10
o'clock, we halted for breakfast, where another Santa Fe company came up. This
proved a party of Americans, with some six or eight waggons and a large number
of horses and mules, on their homeward journey. They had also in their
possession an elk nearly full grown, two black-tailed deer,1 an antelope and a
white-tailed fawn.
Through them we received intelligence of a battle recently fought between the
Pawnee and Arapaho Indians, at the lower Cimarone Springs, south of the
Arkansas. The former had been defeated with great slaughter, —losing their
horses and seventy-two of their bravest warriors, to increase the trophies and
enliven the scalp-dances of their enemies. This action occurred directly upon the
Santa Fe trail, and the dead yet bestrewed the prairie, as our informants passed,
half devoured by wolves, and filling the air with noisome stench as they wasted
beneath the influence of a scorching sun.
An approving murmur ran through the crowd while listening to the recital, and all
united to denounce the Pawnees as a dangerous and villainous set, and wished
for their utter extermination.
1
The black-tailed deer are larger than the common deer, and are found only in the snow-mountains. For a description of
them the reader is referred to subsequent pages.
CHAPTER III.
The Pottowatomies. Crossing the Wakarousha. Adventure at the Springs. The
Caw chief. Kansas river and Indians. Pleading for whiskey. Hickory timber.
Prairie tea. Scenes at the N. Fork of Blue. Wild honey. Return party.
Mountaineers in California. Adventure with a buffalo. Indian atrocities. Liquor and
the Fur Trade. Strict guard. High prices.
CONTINUING our course, we bore to the right, and struck the northern or Platte
trail, and, after travelling eight or ten miles, made camp upon a small creek
skirted with heavy timber, called Black Jack. An early start the next morning
brought us to the Wakarousha, a considerable tributary of the Kansas, where a
junction was formed with our advance party. The territory lying upon this stream
as far south as Council Grove, (a noted place on the Mexican trail, 144 miles
west from Independence,) belongs to the Pottowatomies. These Indians are very
wealthy and are partially civilized, —the most of them being tillers of the ground.
Their dwellings are of very simple construction, —large strips of bark firmly tied to
a frame-work of poles with small apertures to admit light, furnishing the exterior,
while the interior is finished by the suspension of two or three blankets between
the apartments, as partitions, and erecting a few scaffolds for bedsteads. The
fire-place in warm weather is out of doors, but in the winter it occupies the centre
of the building, from which the smoke — unaided by jamb or chimney—is left to
find its way through an opening in the roof. Some, however, are beginning to
improve in their style of architecture, and now and then we find a tolerably
spacious and comfortable house among them.
The Catholics have several missionaries with this tribe, and are using great
exertions, if not to ameliorate their condition, at least, to proselyte them to their
own peculiar faith. The missionaries of other christian denominations are also
devoting themselves for their benefit, and not unfrequently with gratifying
success.
The remainder of the day was occupied in crossing the creek—a task by no
means easy, —its banks being so precipitous we were compelled to lower our
waggons by means of ropes. In so doing it required the utmost caution to prevent
them from oversetting or becoming broken in the abrupt descent.
The night following was passed upon the opposite bank. After travelling some
twelve miles the next day, we encamped a short distance to the right of the trail
at a place known as the Springs. Scarcely had we halted when two footmen
appeared from an opposite direction—one of them leading a horse—whom a
nearer advance proved to be a white man and an Indian. The former was
immediately recognized by our engagés as an old acquaintance, by the name of
Brown, who had been their recent compagnon de voyage from the mountains.
His story was soon told. A few days subsequent to his arrival in the States. a
difficulty had occurred between him and another person, who received a severe
wound from a knife by the hand of Brown during the affray, when the latter was
necessitated to consult his own safety by a hurried flight. He accordingly bade
farewell both to enemies and law, and left for the Indian country — travelling
most of the way by night. Two weeks afterwards he arrived in the Kansas nation,
and remained with the Indian now accompanying him, to await our return.
Having listened to his story, I began to survey his strange companion. He was a
village chief of the Kansas (Caw) tribe, and the first of his race I had ever seen so
nearly dressed in his native costume. In person he was tall and stout-built, —
with broad shoulders and chest, brawny arms and legs, and features evincing the
uncontaminated blood of the Aborigine. His hair was closely shaved to the scalp,
with the exception of a narrow tuft centrewise from forehead to crown, so
trimmed it stood on end like the bristles of a warring hog; then his whole head
and face were so lavishly bedaubed with vermilion, our experienced city belles
would doubtless have considered it an unpardonable waste of that useful
material!
A string of bears'-claws, tastefully arranged, encircled his neck, while ample folds
of brass wire above the wrists and elbows furnished his armillary, and from his
ears hung rude ornaments, — some of silver, others of brass or iron —cruelly
distending the flexible members that bore them. A dirty white blanket drawn
closely around the shoulders enveloped the body, which, with a breech-cloth and
leggins, formed his sole covering. A bow and arrows, slung to his back by a strap
passing over the left shoulder and under the right arm, were his only weapons. A
belt, begirting the waist, sustained his tobacco-pouch and butcher-knife, and
completed his attire and armament.
Thus habited appeared before us the Caw chief, holding in one hand the leadrope of his horse, and in the other the wing of a wild turkey, with a long-stemmed
pipe, carved from a hard red stone, handsomely wrought and finely polished.
Taken altogether, he presented an amusing spectacle — a real curiosity.
Having shaken hands with the company and turned his horse to graze, in a few
moments his pipe was subjected to its destined use, and, as the inhaled fumes
merrily curved from his mouth and nostrils, he ever and anon presented it for the
indulgence of the bystanders. His knowledge of English was limited to the simple
monosyllable "good," which he took occasion to pronounce at intervals as he
thought proper.
Sept. 8th. Continuing on, we encamped towards night at a small creek within six
miles of the crossing of the Kansas river. Here a bevy of our chief's villagers,
rigged in their rude fashion, came flocking up, apparently to gratify their curiosity
in gazing at us, but really in expectation of some trilling presents, or in quest of a
favorable opportunity for indulging their innate propensities for theft. However,
they found little encouragement, as the vigilance of our guards more than
equalled the cunning of our visitors. During their stay we were frequently solicited
for donations of tobacco and ammunition, (as they expressed it,) in payment for
passing through their country. This was individually demanded with all the
assurance of government revenue officers, or the keepers of regular toll-bridges,
strongly reminding one of the petty nations upon the borders of Canaan that
required tribute of the Israelites passing through them to possess the land of their
forefathers.
Sept. 9th. Early in the forenoon we came to the Kansas, and were employed till
nearly night in effecting a ford. This proved rather difficult, as the water was deep
and the bottom sandy;— the course, bearing directly across, till near midway of
the river, follows the current for six or eight hundred yards, and then turns
abruptly to the opposite shore. The Kansas, at the crossing, was not far from six
hundred yards wide, with steep banks of clay and sand. The fording
accomplished, we travelled some six miles, and encamped for the night. Our
visitors yet honored us with their presence; some, under pretence of trading
horses; others, of bartering for tobacco, whiskey, coffee, and ammunition; but
most of them for the real purpose of begging and stealing.
The Caw Indians are a branch of the Osage tribe—speaking the same language,
and identified by the same manners and customs. They number a population of
sixteen hundred, and claim all the territory west of the Delaware, Shawnee, and
Pottowatomie line, to the head waters of the Kansas. Their main village is on the
left bank of the river, a few miles above the crossing. Their houses are built
Pawnee fashion, being coniform and covered with a thick coat of dirt, presenting
a hole at the apex to emit the smoke, and another at the side to serve the double
purpose of a door and window. The whole building describes a complete circle, in
whose centre is placed the hearth-fire, and at the circumference the couches of
its inmates. Its floor is the bare ground, and its ceiling the grass, brush, and poles
which uphold the superincumbent earth forming the roof and sides.
The Caws are generally a lazy and slovenly people, raising but little corn, and
scarcely any vegetables. For a living they depend mostly upon the chase. Their
regular hunts are in the summer, fall, and winter, at which time they all leave for
the buffalo range, and return laden with a full supply of choice provisions. The
robes and skins thus obtained, furnish their clothing and articles for traffic.
As yet, civilization has made but small advances among them. Some, however,
are tolerably well educated, and a Protestant mission established with them, is
beginning its slow but successful operations for their good, while two or three
families of half-breeds, near by, occupy neat houses, and have splendid farms
and improvements, thus affording a wholesome contrast to the poverty and
misery of their rude neighbors.
The distance from Independence to this place, by the mountain trail, is some
eighty miles, over a beautiful and fertile country, which I shall hereafter take
occasion to notice more fully. Before leaving, we were further increased by the
accession of two Canadian voyageurs—French of course. Our force now
numbered some twenty-four one sufficiently formidable for all the dangers of the
route.
Sept. 10th. Resuming our way, we proceeded till late at night, still attended by
our Indian friends; (not the originals, but a "few more of the same sort," who
kindly supplied their places, —seeking to levy fresh drafts upon patience and
generosity.) These were more importunate for liquor than any preceding them—
though, in fact, the whole nation is nowise remiss in their devotion to King
Alcohol. One fellow, in particular, exhausted all his ingenuity to obtain the
wherewith to "wet his whistle." He was a shrivel-faced old man, and occasioned
much sport, from his supplications in broken English, which ran pretty much as
follows:
"Big man, me. Chief, —Black Warrior. Me, American soldier! Love Americans,
heap. Big man, me! Love whiskey, heap. White man good. Whiskey good. Love
whiskey, me, —drink heap whiskey. No give me whiskey drink? Me, Chief. Me,
American. Me, Black Warrior. Heap big man, me! Love Americans. Take him
hand, shake. White man good. Whiskey good. Me love whiskey! Love him heap!
No give Black Warrior whiskey? No?—one leetle drink? Whiskey good. Me love
him. Make Black Warrior strong. Big man, me, Chief. American soldier. Me love
American. Shake him hand. Fight him, bad Indian, no love white man. Kill him.
White man good. Me love white man. Whiskey good. Me love whiskey. No give
Black Warrior whiskey, —one leetle drink? Me, Chief. Big man, me." Etc.
In this strain the old fellow continued so long as he found listeners, but without
success, although, as I afterwards learned, two waggons were freighted with the
noxious article; none of it was suffered to find its way down the throats of our
thirsty guests.
Pursuing a westerly course, nearly parallel with the Kansas, for three successive
days, we passed the 14th encamped at Big Vermilion, for the purpose of
procuring a quantity of hickory for gun-sticks and bow-timber. Hickory is unknown
to the Rocky Mountains, and this being the last place on the route affording it,
each of our company took care to provide himself with an extra gun-stick. Small
pieces, suitable for bows, find market among the mountain Indians, ranging at
the price of a robe each, while gun-sticks command one dollar apiece, from the
hunters and trappers.
We were also careful to provide an extra quantity of ox-bows, axle-trees, &c., as
a resource in case of accidents or breakage. These are articles with which every
caravan should be furnished on a journey across the grand prairies.
In this vicinity a species of shrub, which I had before noticed in various paces,
(designated as "red-root" by our voyageurs,) became quite abundant. The redroot is highly esteemed as a substitute for tea, and my own experience attests its
superiority of flavor to any article of that kind imported from China. In appearance
it is very similar to the tea of commerce, and it affords at all times a most
excellent beverage. It is found only upon the prairies between the frontiers and
Big Blue, and in some portions of the Rocky Mountains.
Leaving Big Vermilion, we travelled rapidly the two days subsequent, and arrived
at the North Fork of Blue, —a large and deep stream, tributary to the Kansas. We
were here detained till the 24th—the creek being impassable on account of high
water.
However, the beauty of the place and variety of its landscape scenery, served in
a great measure to alleviate the weariness of delay. The country was most
agreeably interspersed with hills, uplands, and dales—amply watered and
variegated with woods and prairies, attired in all the gaudy loveliness of wildflowers. The busy bee, afraid of the cruel persecutions of man had here sought a
secure retreat to pursue, unmolested, her melliferous employ, and fill the dark
chambers of her oaken palaces year by year with honeyed stores. The air was
almost vocal with the music of her wings, and the flowerets were enlivened by
the gentle touches of her embrace. The odor of honey filled the breeze, which,
wafting the mingled melody of birds and insects with the incense of flowers, o'er
the smiling prairie till lost in space, seemed more like the breath of Eden than the
exhalations of earth.
As might be supposed, we were not slow in levying upon the delicious stores,
which the industrious insects, claiming this as their dominion, had laid away for
themselves. During our stay no less than four bee-trees were levelled, and every
pan, kettle, pail, keg, or empty dish in the whole camp was filled to overflowing,
and every stomach to repletion, with honey of almost crystalline transparency.
The great abundance of deer, turkey and other game in the vicinity, also
contributed their share of amusement, and enlivened the interval of detention.
At length, by a partial subsidence of the water, we were enabled to effect a
crossing and renew our journey. Pursuing a course W. N. W., on the 27th we met
a small party of whites on their return from the mountains, and, yielding to the
temptation presented by a luxuriant and well-wooded valley, with a pretty
streamlet, the two parties made common camp. Our new acquaintances were
taking a large drove of horses, and several domesticated buffalo, with them to
the States. Their horses had been mostly obtained from Upper California, the
year previous, by a band of mountaineers, under the lead of one Thompson. This
band, numbering twenty-two in all, had made a descent upon the Mexican
ranchos and captured between two and three thousand head of horses and
mules. A corps of some sixty Mexican cavalry pursued and attacked them, but
were defeated and pursued in turn, with the loss of several mules and their entire
camp equipage: after which the adventurers were permitted to regain their
mountain homes, without further molestation; but, in passing the cheerless
desert, between the Sierra Nevada and Colorado, the heat, dust, and thirst were
so intolerably oppressive, that full one half of their animals died. The remainder,
however, were brought to rendezvous, and variously disposed of, to suit the
wants and wishes of their captors.
The buffalo, in possession of our wayfaring friends, had been caught while
calves, and reared by domestic cows. They appeared as tame and easily
managed as other cattle. One of them, a two-year-old heifer, was rather vicious
in its habits, having been spoiled, while a calf, by the too great familiarity of its
keeper. After listening to a full exposition of its bad qualities, our commandant
offered to bet he could handle, or even ride, the unruly beast at pleasure.
“Can you?" said the owner. "Do it, and my best horse is yours!"
"I take all such offers!" returned the commandant. "A horse could not be easier
earned!" he continued, stepping towards the ill-tutored animal. "Come, boss!—
Poor boss!—bossy, bossy!" addressing the buffalo, which commenced
advancing, —at first slowly, then, with a sudden bound, ran full tilt against the
admirer, leaving him prostrate upon the ground, as it turned away, dancing and
throwing its heels exultingly at the exploit.
"Bless my stars!" he exclaimed, on recovering himself; "I'd no idea 'twould serve
me so!"
“Ha, ha, ha!" retorted the owner. "You seem to pick upon a strange place for a
snooze! What in the world were you doing before that skittish beast?"
The roar of laughter which followed, told how well the joke was relished by the
crowd.
Reports from the mountains brought intelligence of recent difficulties between the
whites and Sioux, —the latter having murdered several trappers. A battle had
also been fought in the Snake country, in which the Sioux were defeated with a
loss of twenty killed and wounded, —the whites suffered in the loss of their
leader (Frapp) and four others. Another affair had come off, at Fort Platte,
between two factions of that tribe, while on a drunken spree, resulting in the
death of Schena-Chischille, their chief, and several of his party.
The most acceptable item of intelligence was the probability of our reaching the
buffalo range in ten days, at least, where we should find vast quantities of those
animals. This led our voyageurs to expatiate anew upon the choice varieties of
the feast of good things we might expect on that occasion.
Bidding adieu to our transient camp-mates, we were soon again en route. The
day following, being unfit for travel, was devoted to overhauling and re-adjusting
the freight of the waggons. Here, for the first time, I ascertained the fact, that a
portion of the above consisted of no less than twenty-four barrels of alcohol,
designed for the Indian trade!
This announcement may occasion surprise to many, when aware that the laws of
Congress prohibit, under severe penalties, the introduction of liquor among the
Indians, as an article of traffic, —subjecting the offender to a heavy fine and
confiscation of effects. Trading companies, however, find ways and means to
smuggle it through, by the waggon-load, under the very noses of government
officers, stationed along the frontiers to enforce the observance of laws.
I am irresistibly led to the conclusion, that these gentry are willfully negligent of
their duty; and, no doubt, there are often weighty inducements presented to them
to shut their eyes, close their ears, and avert their faces, to let the guilty pass
unmolested. It seems almost impossible that a blind man, retaining the senses of
smell, taste and hearing, could remain ignorant of a thing so palpably plain. The
alcohol is put into waggons, at Westport or Independence, in open day-light, and
taken into the territory, in open day light, where it remains a week or more
awaiting the arrival of its owners. Two Government agents reside at Westport,
while six or eight companies of Dragoons are stationed at Fort Leavenworth,
ostensibly for the purpose of protecting the Indians and suppressing this
infamous traffic, —and yet it suffers no diminution from their vigilance! What
faithful public officers! How prompt in the discharge of their whole duty!
These gentlemen cannot plead ignorance as an excuse. They well know that
alcohol is one of the principal articles in Indian trade—this fact is notorious—no
one pretends to deny it; not even the traders themselves — and yet, because no
one takes the trouble to produce a specimen of the kind of freight taken, more or
less, by all mountain companies, and FORCE them to see, taste, touch, and
smell, they affect ignorance! It is thus the benevolent designs of our Government
are consummated by these pensioners upon the public treasury!
Had they the will so to do, it would be no difficult matter to put a stop to all such
exportations. The departure of any one of these companies for the mountains, is
a thing too difficult to be effected unknown and stealthily. It becomes public talk
for days and even weeks previous. Scarcely anything would be easier than for
those whose business it is, to keep on the look out, and enforce the law to its full
extent upon each offender. A few examples of this kind would interpose an
insuperable barrier to the further prosecution of an illicit traffic in the manner it is
at present carried on. A few faithful public officers, and attentive to their duty,
regardless of fear or favor, would soon accomplish an object so desirable.
In subsequent pages of this work I shall have occasion to notice a few of the
many evils resulting from this criminal neglect, —but at present forbear further
remarks.
Our arms were now put in order for immediate use, —each individual
apportioning to himself a good supply of ammunition, to be ready at all times in
case of attack. Guards were ordered to be constantly on the alert. The company
was divided into two parties, — one for day and the other for night guard, and
these again were subdivided for alternate relieves, —thus, one of each
subdivision serving a day and a night, and the reserve the day and night
succeeding. The day-guard consisted of only two persons, upon duty every other
day, but the night-guard numbered ten, —two being on duty for two hours were
then relieved by the two next in succession, and they by the next, and so on.
Strict orders were also given to prevent any from leaving camp, or parting from
the caravan while travelling. In fact, every thing began to assume a warlike
aspect, as if we were really in danger and apprehensive of an immediate
reencounter.
Several boxes of clothing, &c., were also opened for such as wished to purchase.
But every article disposed of was sold at an enormous rate: tobacco bringing
from one to three dollars per lb., according to quality; butcher-knives, from one
dollar to one fifty each; hose, one dollar per pair; shirts, from three to five dollars
each, according to quality; blankets, from twelve to sixteen dollars; coats, from
fifteen to forty dollars; coarse shoes, four dollars per pair; six-penny calicoes, fifty
cts. per yd.; beads, one dollar per bunch, etc. These were of an indifferent
quality, and afforded the vender some three or four hundred per cent advance
upon purchase-price. In fact, with regard to prices, conscience had nothing to do
with the matter.
CHAPTER IV.
Country from the frontiers to Big Blue; its geological character, &c. Novel cure for
fever and ague. — Indian trails. — Game. — Large rabbits. —Antelope, and their
peculiarities. —Beaver cuttings. — Big Blue and its vicinity. — Dangerous
country. —Pawnee bravery. —Night-alarm, (Prairies on fire.) —Platte river. —
Predominant characteristics of the Grand Prairies, and theory explanative of their
phenomenon. — Something to laugh at. —"Big Jim" and the antelope.
Sept. 26th. WE are now camped upon a small creek, nearly destitute of timbers
within two miles of Big Blue, or the N. W. branch of the Kansas river. The
geography of this part of the country is incorrectly described upon all the
published maps I have yet seen. The Republican Fork, which is the principal
branch of the Kansas, is uniformly represented as the most northwesterly branch
of that river, forming a junction with it at or below the usual crossing. This is not
the case.
The two forks of Blue, from the northwest, united, form a large and important
stream, which, according to my impression, discharges its waters into the Kansas
itself, and not into the Republican. Of this, however, I am not quite positive. But
be that as it may, admitting the Republican to be the main stream, Big Blue must
be, as a matter of course, the most northwesterly branch of the Kansas river.
Proceeding up the Blue, the geological character of the country under goes an
entire and radical change, and the traveller is introduced to a different order of
things from that previously observed.
Perhaps, therefore, it is not out of place to present a general review of the
territory thus far.
The interval from the frontier of Missouri to Big Blue, a distance up wards of two
hundred miles, affords great uniformity in all its more prominent characteristics. It
generally comprises beautifully undulating prairies, of a moist argillaceous soil,
rich in sedimentary deposites and vegetable matter. It is somewhat rocky in
places, but well watered by the almost innumerable streams that find their way
into the Kansas, Platte and Arkansas rivers. The creeks, with but few exceptions,
are heavily timbered with oak, hickory, walnut, maple, cottonwood, and other
varieties found in more eastern forests. The hills too, in some parts, are more
than usually abundant in springs, and covered with stately groves, as tastefully
arranged as if planted by the hand of man, while luxuriant grass and fragrant
flowers usurp the place of underbrush. The prairies, hemmed in on every side by
the woodlands skirting the water-courses, present to the eye proud oceans of
flowery verdure, tossing their wavelets to the breeze and perfuming the air with
the breath of spring.
The streams are clear, with rocky or pebbly bottoms and high, steep banks —
abounding in choice specimens of the finny tribes and varieties of the testaceous
order, of the genus muscula. The valley of the Kansas is wide and of a deep
brown vegetable mould, susceptible of a high state of cultivation. The whole
country is well adapted to the double purpose of agriculture and the growth of
stock.
The prevailing rock is sandstone of various shades and compactness, with
siliceous and fossiliferous limestone. These specifications are generally exhibited
in a detached and fragmentary form, but rarely in strata as disclosed upon the
surface.
Taken as a whole, the territory holds out many inducements to emigrants, and,
whenever brought into market, will no doubt become speedily and thickly
populated.2
Sept. 30th. We are again under headway. A French engagé, who had been
suffering for several days past from a severe attack of the fever and ague,
experienced a sudden and novel cure. Unable to travel, quarters were prepared
for him in one of the whiskey waggons, where he was comfortably disposed of as
we continued our course. In passing a rough place the waggon overset, when out
came the invalid head foremost, and out came the whiskey barrels showering full
upon him! The suddenness of the fall, with the surprise and excitement of the
occasion, —one, or both, or all, or some other cause unknown, effected a
complete cure, —for certain it is, he did not suffer another attack of the fever and
ague during the whole journey, and the next day was able to discharge his duties
as well as ever.
On striking the Big Blue, the mountain road bears a north-northwest course to the
head of that stream, and from thence over an interval of highlands to the Platte
river. The distance travelled up the Blue requires some eight days, for heavy
waggons. Continuing our way, about noon we passed several Indian trails, in
addition to one ten or twelve or fifteen miles back. These consist of a number of
well-beaten, parallel foot-paths, bearing a northwest and southwest direction.
They are formed by the passing and repassing of the Otoes, Iowas, and Foxes,
to and from their hunting grounds, towards the head-waters of the Kansas.
On the 3d of October we reached the antelope range, and saw four or five of
these animals scouring the boundless expanse, or ascending some favorable
eminence to gaze upon us. Slight signs of buffalo also appeared, and everything
seemed to indicate the approach to a game country.
Parting a short distance from the trail, a large sage rabbit bounded up before me,
—the first of his species I ever saw. This animal is nearly three times the size of
the common rabbit, and of a white color, slightly tinged with grey. It derives its
2
By a recent treaty with the Kansas Indians, our government has become possessed of nearly the whole of this beautiful
section.
name from being found principally in countries abounding with absinthe or wild
sage. In the regions adjacent to the mountains, these animals occur more
frequently, —and even among the mountains, where their tails and ears are
tipped with jetty black. Their fur is soft and fine, — equalling if not surpassing that
of the Russia rabbit. Their flesh is also of a superior flavor, as I have had
opportunities of testing.
Towards night, three antelope appearing near the trail, our hunter made an
unsuccessful attempt to approach them, which afforded me a first inkling of the
nature and character of these animals.
The antelope of the grand prairie differs but little in size and shape from the
common sheep, and is coated with long, brittle hair, —of a ruddy brown color,
except at the tail and head, where it is short and white. The female is hornless,
except an occasional blunt corneous excrescence, some two or three inches long
protruding from the head. The male, however, is equipped with hook-shaped
antlers, ebony colored, and six or eight inches in length, which he sheds annually
in the months of November and December.
This is the fleetest inhabitant of the prairie. No horse can compete with it in
speed. Quick of sight, keen of scent, and acute of ear, it seems ever on the alert
at the approach of real or supposed danger, —now swiftly advancing towards the
object of its alarm or curiosity, —then circling before you with the fleetness of the
storm-wind, to mount some eminence far away beyond reach, and gaze in
security. Then, again, ere you have time to catch breath for admiration, it repeats
its semi-gyration from an opposite direction, still nearer and swifter, till past, —as
if indeed borne on the wings of lightning—and yet again surveys you in the
distance. Now, running from point, to point it examines you upon all sides, as it
cautiously passes round, —then, snuffing the breeze, it again calls to aid its
fleetness of limb, and with the velocity of thought is lost to view in the vast
expanse.
Possessed of an inordinate share of inquisitiveness, it not unfrequently falls a
victim to its own curiosity. The hunter, turbaned with a red handkerchief and half
concealed behind some object, first raising, then depressing his head, then
withdrawing it entirely from view, then again disclosing it to the curious animal, is
almost certain to allure his game within gunshot.
I have seen numbers killed in this manner. In the spring season they appear
more sensitive than at any other time, and are easily lured to their fate.
With the exhibition of this strange propensity, I have time and again been minded
of its more fully developed moral prototype in man. How frequently do we see
persons around us who indulge their appetites and passions, as often for mere
curiosity as fancied pleasure, —venturing nearer and still nearer towards the
objects that command their attention and lure them into the vortex of ruin, till, with
sure and deadly aim, the shafts of the tempter pierce the waning vitals of
morality, and plunge the victims headlong into a yawning abyss, where they are
lost to themselves, to society, and to the world—lost forever!
Here, then, is furnished for us a moral:- Beware how you indulge a vain curiosity
that lures to evil;— never parley with temptation.
These animals are found from the Big Blue to the mountains—in Oregon,
California, Santa Fe, and N. W. Texas. Their flesh is tender and sweet, —quite
equal to venison, though seldom fat, owing, as is supposed, to their almost
incessant mobility.
Near our night-camp I noticed fresh beaver "cuttings," some of which consisted
of trees, six inches in diameter, levelled by these sagacious animals.
The vicinity disclosed frequent boulders of red and dark ferruginous sandstone,
with a soil somewhat arenose, reclining upon a changeable deposite of sand and
gravel, succeeded by a substratum of parti-colored and friable sandstone. The
valley of the Blue is bordered by hills of graceful slope, both green and beautiful.
I here remarked for the first time the appearance of cacti, which here from
becomes quite common, and proves the pest of many places adjacent to the
mountains.
The Blue is a deep, narrow stream, with a swift current, over a bed of gravel and
pebbles, and is fringed by groves of oak, cotton-wood, and willow. Its valley is
between one and two miles in width, with a superfice of variable fertility, but
generally consisting of good arable land.
This section of country is considered very dangerous in the summer and fall
months, on account of the strolling bands of Pawnees which infest it. The
voyageur holds the latter in great dread, unless he chances to be accompanied
by a sufficient force to bid defiance to their approach. A party, numerically weak
and indifferently armed, meets with rough treatment at their hands while on the
open prairies. Persons and property are rarely respected, and the unfortunate
traveller is not only plundered, but often whipt or murdered without mercy.
This, however, may not be said of all—it is only the young warriors, when beyond
the restraint of their chiefs and seniors, who perpetrate such outrages; though, to
their praise be it said, instances of this kind are quite seldom, at present,
compared with former years.
The courage of these Indians is held in little repute by mountaineers; and, that
this opinion is not unfounded, the following incident will prove. It was related to
me by an actor in the scene:
A small party of whites on their cruise down the Platte with a cargo of furs, " lay
by" to make meat, near the forks of that stream. Buffalo being at some distance
from camp, our adventurers were compelled to perform the duties of pack-horses
in conveying the proceeds of their hunting excursions. One day, four of them left
for this object, and having proceeded some six or eight miles, a war-party of
Pawnees suddenly emerged from behind an eminence, directly fronting them.
Alarmed at the unwelcome apparition, and imagining the whole country to be
alive with Indians, they immediately ran, and were pursued towards camp. One
of the number, a big, lazy fellow, and rather "green" withal, soon became tired.
and sung out to his companions:
"Don't let's run so fast. Blast me, if I can keep up!"
"Come on, —come on!" cried they. "A thousand ‘shaved heads' are upon us, half
frozen for hair!"
"Pooh! I'll bet five dollars there aint thirty!"
Done! But, who'll count the bloody varmints?"
"Why, I'll do it, just for my own satisfaction." So saying, he wheeled and
advanced towards the Pawnees, as his wondering companions halted a little
distance of, to learn the result of his fool-daring.
Surprised at this strange movement, the enemy also came to a stand, affording a
fine opportunity to ascertain their number, which only amounted to nineteen!
"I've won!" exclaimed our hero. “Let's charge, and give'em the very devil!"
The word went for command, and the four hunters dashed boldly towards the
terrified savages, who in turn fled, with greater velocity than they had called into
exercise at any time during their advance, —illustrating the truth of the saying,
"tyrants are always cowards." Legs proved quite convenient articles for the
Pawnee braves! They were out of sight in a few minutes, and were very careful
not to stop until they had left their pursuers far in the rear.
A Pawnee with a defenceless enemy in his power, like some examples among
the whites, is unrivalled in courage and daring; but where there is resistance
offered, and fighting to be done, he, as well as the Irishman's chickens, "comes
up missing!" He is always bravest when farthest from danger.
We were careful to observe the strictest vigilance at night, to prevent the loss of
horses from lurking bands of Indians. The animals of the caravan were uniformly
picketed in compact order, and sentinels, posted at suitable distances, continued
to pace their rounds, from dark till daylight; while each of the company slept by
his arms, in readiness at any moment to repel an attack.
Having travelled for seven successive days, we made camp late in the afternoon
at the head of the right fork of Blue.
During the day we had noticed a dense smoke some distance in the rear, but,
with the wind in an opposite direction, no uneasiness was felt on that account.
The sentries were soon at their posts and everything was snugly disposed of for
the night. Those not on duty improved the opportunity to gain respite from the
fatigues of the day, and, in a brief interval, were snoring away at an admirable
rate.
The polar-star by its "pointers" had just told the hour of midnight, when these
hurried words rang through the camp:
"Lave, ho! Lave! Prairies on fire! Quick—catch up! catch up!"3
This startling announcement instantly brought every man to his feet; — and such
a scene as now met the eye! How awful, and how grand! The wind, new changed
and freshened, to the right and rear, was tossing the flames towards us, rapidly—
lighting the heavens with their lurid glare, and transforming the darkness of night
into a more than noon-day splendor!
Here was, indeed, an "ocean of flame!" far as the eye could reach — dancing
with fiery wavelets in the wind, or rolling its burning surges, in mad fury, eager to
lick up every vestige of vegetation or semblance of combustible that appeared in
its way! — now shooting its glowing missiles far, far ahead, like meteors athwart
the sky, or towering aloft from the weeds and tall grass, describing most hideous
and fantastic forms, that, moving with the wind, more resembled a cotillion of
demons among their native flames than aught terrestrial!—then driving whole
sheets of the raging element into the withered herbage in front, like the advance
scouts of an invading army, swept onward its desolating course, leaving in its
track naught save a blackened waste of smoking ruins!
Altogether, it was a sublime spectacle, a stupendous scene, grand and imposing
beyond description, and terrible in its beauty! Commingled with sensations of
wonder and admiration, it tended to impress the beholder with feelings of painful
melancholy. The broad expanse, but a few moments since arrayed in all the
mourning grandeur of fading autumn, was now a naked desert, and every vestige
of loveliness in an instant snatched from view!
How sudden, how awful, how marked the change! and yet, how magnificent in its
career, though doleful its sequel!
We were speedily under way, with as much earnestness of advance as that of
righteous Lot, in his escape from burning Sodom.4 For a while the pursuing
3
"Lave" appears to be a corruption of the Spanish word levar, to get up, or arouse, as from sleep. It is in common use
among mountaineers.
4
The great peril of our situation, and the pressing necessity of a hurried flight, may be readily inferred from the fact, that
one waggon was freighted with a large quantity of gunpowder. None of us were quite so brave or present-minded as
several Mexicans, in the employ of Messrs. Bent & St. Vrain, on an occasion somewhat similar. While journeying across
enemy kept even pace, and threatened to overtake us, till, headed by the strong
wind, which meanwhile had changed its course, it began to slacken its speed and
abate its greediness.
About sunrise we crossed the regular Pawnee trails, (leading to and from their
hunting grounds, which bore the appearance of being much frequented,) and at
10 o'clock, A. M., reached the Platte river, having travelled a distance of thirty
miles—without halting.
The mountain road strikes the above stream at lat. 40° 41' 06" north, long. 99°
17' 47" west from Greenwich, some twenty miles below the head of Grand Island.
This island is densely wooded and broad, and extends for fifty or sixty miles in
length. The river banks are very sparsely timbered, a deficiency we had occasion
to remark during the remainder of our journey.
The valley of the Platte at this place is six or seven miles wide, and the river itself
between one and two miles from bank to bank. Its waters are very shallow, and
are scattered over their broad bed in almost innumerable channels, nearly
obscured by the naked sand-bars that bechequer its entire course through the
grand prairie. Its peculiarity in this respect gave birth to the name of Platte,
(shallow,) which it received from the French, and Chartre, (surface,) from the
Mexicans, —the Indians, according to Washington Irving, calling it Nebraska,5 a
term synonymous with that of the French and Americans, —however, I am
ignorant in reference to the latter.
The bottom upon the south bank is between three and four miles broad and of a
light, deep, and, rich soil, occasionally sandy, but covered with thick and lusty
vegetation. Back from the valley, ranges of broken sand-hills mark the transition
to the high arid prairies in the rear, where vegetation becomes more dwarfish and
stinted in its growth, and is intermingled with frequent cacti.
These immense plains are generally clad with a short, curly grass, (the buffalo
grass,) very fine and nutritious, and well adapted to the sustenance of the
countless herds of buffalo and other wild animals that feed upon it. Their soil is
generally of a thin vegetable mould, upon a substratum of indurated sand and
gravel.
In many places it is quite sterile, producing little other than sand-burrs and a
specimen of thin, coarse grass, that sadly fail to conceal its forbidding surface; in
the grand prairies, the powder-waggon accidentally caught fire, which was noticed immediately by the Mexican
attendants, who hurriedly clasped it upon all sides, to prevent the vehicle from being blown to pieces while one of them
proceeded deliberately to extinguish the flames! Neither could we stand comparison with a lieutenant of the Mexican
army, at Santa Fe, who, on opening a keg of powder, made use of a RED-HOT IRON in lieu of an auger, for that purpose.
It is needless to say, a tremendous explosion followed. Several of the bystanders were killed, but the lieutenant
miraculously escaped. He soon after received a Captain's commission from the Commander-in-chief, in consideration of
his indomitable COURAGE!
5
The Sioux have bestowed the appellation of Duck river upon the North Fork of Platte.
others, it is but little better than a desert waste of sand-hills or white sun-baked
clay, so hard and impervious that neither herb nor grass can take root to grow
upon it; and in others, it presents a light superfice, both rich and productive,
beclad with all that can beautify and adorn a wilderness of verdure.
The springs and streams of water are "few and far between,"—an evil, however,
slightly atoned for by the occasional pools formed in favoring depressions during
the rainy season, which are retained in their places by the extreme hardness of
the soil. Were it not for these it would be almost impossible, in many directions,
to travel the vast prairies lying between the Arkansas and Missouri, from long.
22° 30' west from Washington to the Rocky Mountains. That this section of
country should ever become inhabited by civilized man, to any extent, except in
the vicinity of large water-courses, is an idea too preposterous to be entertained
for a single moment.
As the reader is now inducted to the grand prairie as it is, it may not be amiss to
say something relative to this phenomenon, before dismissing the subject in
hand.
The steppes of Asia, the pampas of South America, and the prairies of the great
West, so far as my information extends, are possessed of one general and
uniform character. There is something deeply mysterious associated with them,
that puzzles the philosopher and cosmogonist to explain. Why is it neither timber
nor shrubs, as a general thing, are found within their confines? Why have not the
same causes operated here which produced the stately forests of other regions?
The above questions are often asked, and as often answered; but never
satisfactorily.
Some respond by a reference to their frequent burnings, —others to some
chemical defect in their soil, —others, to the disgeniality of their climate, —
others, to their infecund aridity, —and yet, others, to the supposition that some
operation of nature or art has effected the destruction of quondam forests, and
reduced them to their present condition.
Each of these answers, though, doubtless, partially true in many respects, fails to
solve the problem before us.
Here we have, in many places, almost measureless extents of fertile soil, moist
and abundantly watered, by rains, springs, and ever-flowing streams, with all the
desiderata for the producing of trees, —and what withholds them? Other sections
of country, under less favorable circumstances, are not wanting in this respect.
Why is it? Timber of every kind adapted to the zone and climate will gross as
thriftily when planted here, as elsewhere. The frontier forests of our Western
States have been observed for years past to make slow but constant
encroachment upon contiguous prairies, from all sides, where, as yet, they have
a foothold;— and why? Partly, because their enlargement is not circumvented by
those annual burnings that formerly devoured every tender shoot daring to raise
its head above ground; and, partly, through the operation of other causes, sure
and gradual in their effect, which have planted the groves of other lands and
taught their branches to wave in the breeze. Doubtless the same causes would
produce the same results, all over these vast regions, as elsewhere.
But, why have they not?—why are the prairies timberless? Simply, because a
sufficiency of time has not yet elapsed for the operation of these causes, —
timber has hitherto had no possible chance for generation. The phenomenon, if
rightly viewed, will thus explain itself. Geology points to the time when these vast
solitudes were the bed of old Ocean and the home of waves, —but, gradually
emerging or suddenly elevated from the watery abyss, they now present some of
the more recent formations of dry land.
Herbage and grass, being more easily propagated than trees, —sown as are
their seeds by the birds and scattered by the winds of heaven, —in a brief
interval, beswathed the new-born earth with smiling green. Thus clothed with
verdancy, they soon became the favorite pastures of the countless herds that
thronged them. With game, appeared the red man to hunt it, and with him the
yearly conflagrations that now repel the intruding woodlands and confirm the
unbroken sway of solitude amid her far extending domains.
Here, then, we have spread before us the prairies as we find them, —the
problem of their existence needs no further solution.
Oct. 12th. Still continuing up the Platte by its south bank, we made camp at night
near the head of Grand Island. During our progress we saw large quantities of
wild geese and cranes in the river bottoms, that presented tempting marks for our
voyageurs. One of the latter, —a tall raw-boned, half-crazed, and self-confident
Missouri "Ned,"—good natured and inane, —sporting, the familiar soubriquet of
"Big Jim,"-wishing to prove the truth of the Dogberry axiom, that "some things
may be done as well others," started to approach a large flock of sand-hill
cranes, parading half obscured in a plat of grass near the road side.
The wary birds, however, caught glimpse of the approaching Nimrod and flew.
Still our hero advanced, crawling upon all-fours, to within sixty or seventy yards
of their recent position, when, raising up, he espyed an object which his excited
imagination portrayed a crane, and promptly yielded to it the contents of his rifle.
Of course the obstinate creature remained in status quo.
Re-loading with all possible speed, he again fired! But the second shot proved
futile as the first.
Determined the next should count whether or no, he advanced still nearer, and
had raised for his third discharge, before the naked truth burst upon his
astonished vision, —he had been shooting at a bunch of dead grass Shouldering
his rifle he now rejoined the caravan, and was received by the wags who had
witnessed his exploit, as follows:
"Ho, Jim! I say, Jim! Did you kill it?"
"Hang me, but it stood fire well, —didn't it?"
"Reckon you wanted a bigger charge."
"Strange you couldn't knock it cold at that distance!"
"May be your gun's out of order?"
"Yes. I'll bet a stewed crane of it. Have you noticed the "sights” lately?"
"Why, Jim. Really you've had bad luck! What, within sixty yards and not kill? I can
beat that, all day!"
"Ha, ha, Jim! Shoot him grass!"
This rally was received, by our hero, in good part, who joined in the sport with as
much gusto as though some one else were the victim.
The day, however, was not permitted to pass without another display of the
prowess of "Big Jim."
A doe antelope, attracted by the strange appearance of the moving caravan, and
impelled by its innate curiosity, had ventured to a tempting proximity. Mounted
upon a fleet horse and supposing he could easily ride down the antelope, our
hero started in pursuit.
Intently surveying the passing scene, the agile animal permitted him to advance
within a few yards of her before she took the alarm. Now was a novel race. Away
went antelope and away went Jim, in full chase. The former was soon far ahead,
and stopped to gaze upon her pursuer.
Supposing she had become tired and was about to yield, our hero came dashing
on, impetuously, under whip and spur, fully intent upon her capture. But, again,
away went antelope, and away went Jim, whose steed, ambitious as its rider,
and proud in its own fleetness, strained every nerve for the crisis. Even the
antelope seemed to have found a champion to contest her unrivalled and
universally acknowledged superiority. With distended mouth and protruding
tongue, panting in the excitement of fear, and foaming in the vehemency of effort,
she gained but slowly upon the bounding charger, as both swept over the prairie
almost with speed of the storm-wind!
Now, again, she stops to gaze upon her pursuer. By this time all began to feel an
interest in the result of the strange race. The word resounded:
"Go it, Jim! you'll beat the beater, yet!"
Once more, the antelope shoots from before both horse and rider, like the swiftwinged arrow twanged from a giant's bow!
A broad ravine intercepting her course was cleared at a bound, and left the flying
animal far upon the other side. At a bound the steed also cleared the barrier, but,
in striking upon the opposite bank, it plunged headlong upon the yielding ground,
tossing its rider far away in advance, all safely sprawling in a sand heap.
The luckless wight, on recovering, found his noble beast so sprained by the fall it
could scarcely stand, and its every nerve vibrating with frightful tremors. Of
course here was the finale of the race, as both returned to the caravan, —the
recent rider, on foot, leading his jaded steed, — the ridden slowly limping behind,
—presenting a marked contrast between the opening and closing scene.
The ill-fated horse was too much disabled for further service during the journey.
As our hero joined the company, the joke-loving wags again broke loose:
"Well, Jim. I say, —ahem! did you catch the tarnal critter?"
"Pooh! Why didn't you hold on, and not let her slide through your fingers in that
way!"
"Why, man! You wasn't spry enough, when you jumped off your horse, or you
might have caught her—just as easy!"'
"I'd like to know what you was diving after in that sand-bank!—the antelope
wasn't there!"
"Oh, Jim! Shoot him grass, kill horse. Me look next time he run antelope."
The passive recipient of these sallies had little peace from henceforth, and soon
began to wish he had never seen an antelope or heard of a crane.
CHAPTER V.
Deserted camp. Big Jim's third attempt as a hunter. Buffalo and other particulars.
Big Jim lying guard. Butchering. Strange selections. Extraordinary eating, and
excellence of buffalo meat. Brady's Island. The murderer's fate. Substitute for
wood. A storm. Game in camp. Strange infatuation. Tenacity of buffalo to life,
and how to hunt them. Cross S. Fork of Platte. Big Jim's fourth adventure.
NEAR camp was the site recently occupied by the Pawnee village, whose
occupants had evidently deserted it with the utmost precipitancy, leaving lodgeskins, mortars, bowls, pans, and a variety of other articles strown confusedly
upon all sides. They had doubtless become alarmed at the approach of some
real or supposed enemy, and consulted their own safety in flight.
Having started early the next day, our hunter soon brought in two fine antelope,
the sight of which again raised the ambition of Big Jim, who would fain do deeds
of equal wonder; and he accordingly strolled off into the hills with that intent. After
shooting at several of the wary animals without, success, he began to get tired of
the sport, and concluding the "'poverty-stricken" creatures not worth the powder
and lead, set his face for the caravan.
Plodding leisurely along, he espied a prairie snake, and, o'erjoyed at the thought
of counting a "coup," gathered his rifle by the small, and brought it down with
such force, he not only killed the snake, but broke his gunstock short off at the
breech. With the pieces, one in each hand, he made his appearance before his
comrades, who hailed him:
"Hallo, Jim. What's that you've killed?"
"Gun broke. Why, you must have overloaded it!"
"When'll you go hunting again? —'case I want to go too!"
"Poor Jim! Shoot grass, kill horse, break gun! Wat in do wor does him mean!"
"Never mind, Jim. Don't be skeered at these fellows. It takes you to play the devil
and break things!"
Towards night, several buffalo bulls having made their appearance, our hunter,
mounting a horse, started for the chase, and in a brief interval, returned laden
with a supply of meat. Camp had already been struck, and preparations for the
new item of fare were under speedy headway.
The beef proved miserably poor; but when cooked, indifferent as it was, I
imagined it the best I had ever tasted. So keen was my relish, it seemed
impossible to get enough. Each of us devoured an enormous quantity for supper,
—and not content with that, several forsook their beds during the night to renew
the feast, —as though they had been actually starving for a month.
The greediness of the " greenhorns," was the prolific source of amusement to our
voyageurs, who made the night-air resound with laughter at the avidity with which
the unsophisticated ones "walked into the affections of the old bull," as they
expressed it. " Keep on your belts till we get among cows," said they, "then let
out a notch or two, and take a full meal."
It was equally amusing to me, and rather disgusting withal, to see the "old birds,"
as they called themselves, dispose of the only liver brought in camp. Instead of
boiling, frying, or roasting it, they laid hold of it raw, and, sopping it mouthful by
mouthful in gall, swallowed it with surprising gusto.
This strange proceeding was at first altogether incomprehensible, but, ere the
reader shall have followed me through all my adventures in the wilds of the great
West, he will find me to have obtained a full knowledge of its several merits.
The beef of the male buffalo at this season of the year, is poorer than at any
other. From April till the first of June, it attains its prime, in point of excellence. In
July and August, these animals prosecute their knight-errantic campaign, and,
between running, fighting and gallantry, find little time to graze, finally emerging
from the contested field, with hides well gored, and scarcely flesh enough upon
their bones to make a decent shadow.
It is nowise marvellous, then, that our lavish appropriation of bullmeat at this
time, when it is unprecedentedly tough, strong-tasted, and poor, should excite
the mirth of our better-informed beholders.
The night was a cold one, and claimed for it Big Jim as second guard. When
called for "relieve," with a borrowed gun, he commenced his rounds, —but the
cold soon drove him to the camp-fire.
Here, weariness and the somnific effects of a generous heat, speedily found him
stretched at full length towards the fire, snoring away at a sound rate, the subject
of their combined influence.
The guard time had already expired, and his partner on duty, perceiving the
pleasant situation of the indomitable Jim, called the next "relieve,' and retired.
These paced their rounds, and the fourth guard succeeded, but still our hero
occupied the same place in which he had lain his "tour." The sentinels were
about to take their posts, as a loud sharp voice resounded through camp.
"Quit, there! What d'ye mean?" Hastening to the spot from which the cry
proceeded, who should be seen but Big Jim, in great agony, rubbing his foot with
most pitiable grimace:
His slumbers had been disturbed by a falling log, of the camp-fire, which had
planted its glowing weight full against one of his feet, —becrisping the sole of his
shoe and severely scorching its tenant, before awakening him. Dreaming some
one had hold of his foot, and started by a sudden acuteness of pain, he
exclaimed as above quoted.
The sentinels laughed at his mishap, and turning to pace their rounds, drawled
out:
"What d'ye mean? Sure enough, what d'ye mean! Shoot grass, kill horse, break
gun, lay guard, burn shoe, and scorch foot;— all in two days and two nights! Poor
devil, —why ye no born wid better luck!"
With the morning, the subject of his recent adventures called forth fresh
scintillations of waggish wit, —while the unrivalled capacity of our hero, as a
gormandizer, gave cue to the cuts that followed:
"Well, my head for a foot-ball, if that aint the greatest idea yet What!—roast foot,
basted with leather, —and his own at that! Such a meal none but Jim would ever
have thought of!"
"Why, man! What put you in the notion of that dish?" "Strange, indeed, if you
can't find the wherewith to stuff your devil, without cooking your feet! Souse, to
be sure! Here, you can take my hat!"
The luckless wight had now enough to engagé his attention during the remainder
of the journey, and began to wish he had never seen a mountain company, or left
his sweet home in Missouri to cross the great prairies with such a crowd, —but
all to no purpose; he was too late to retrace his steps alone.
Oct, 13th. Starting at early day, we travelled till about 11 o'clock, A. M., and
halted for breakfast. The teams were scarcely turned to graze, when a dense
band of buffalo cows made their appearance, from the back prairie, wending their
way towards the river.
Expectation was on tip-toe, and all appetites doubly sharpened for an anticipated
feast, as our hunter and his assistant started to intercept the witless animals at
the river bank.
The two placed themselves in a chosen position and awaited the heavily moving
throng, which soon advanced to within shooting distance. The sharp crack of a
rifle now stopped their headway, and caused them to recoil a few paces, leaving
one of their number struggling in death. An other discharge followed, and the
affrighted herd were seen flying from their concealed enemy, with all the energy
that innate dread of danger and death lent to their ready feet, —but not until
another victim had dank the sod with the unsought libation of its heart's blood.
It pained me, as I came up, to witness the noble beasts as they lay extended
upon the gore-dyed ground. But the present was no time for regret; we were to
feed upon their carcasses.
The process of butchering was a new development of that most useful science.
The carcase was first turned upon the belly, and braced to a position by its
distended legs. The operator then commenced his labors by gathering the long
hair of the "boss," and severing a piece obliquely at the junction of the neck and
shoulders, —then parting the hide from neck to rump, a few passes of his ready
knife laid bare the sides, —next paring away the loose skin and preparing a hold,
with one hand he pulled the shoulder towards him and with the other severed it
from the body;— cutting aslant the uprights of the spina dorsi and "hump ribs,"
along the lateral to the curve, and parting the "fleece" from the tough flesh at that
point he deposited it upon a clean grass-spot.
The same process being described upon the opposite side, the carcase was then
slightly inclined, and, by aid of the leg-bone bisected at the kneejoint, the "humpribs" were parted from the vertebra; after which, passing his knife aside the ninth
rib and around the ends at the midriff, he laid hold of the dissevered side, and,
with two or three well directed jerks, removed it to be laid upon his choicely
assorted pile; a few other brief minutia then completed the task.
Meanwhile, divers of the company had joined the butcher, and, while some were
greedily feeding upon liver and gall, others helped themselves to marrow-bones,
"boudins," and intestinum medulæ, (choice selections with mountaineers,) and
others, laden with rich spoils, hastened their return to commence the more
agreeable task of cooking and eating.
The remaining animal was butchered in a trice, and select portions of each were
then placed upon a pack-horse and conveyed to the waggons.
The assortment was, indeed, a splendid one. The "depouille" (fleecefat) was full
two inches thick upon the animal's back, and the other dainties were enough to
charm the eyes and excite the voracity of an epicure.
The camp-fires soon presented a busy and amusing spectacle. Each one was
ornamented with delicious roasts, en appolas, on sticks planted aslope around it,
attentively watched by the longing voyageurs, who awaited the slow process of
cooking. Some were seen with thin slices from the larder, barely heated through
by the agency of a few coals, retreating from the admiring throng to enjoy solo
their half-cooked morsels, —others, paring off bit by bit from the fresh-turned
hissing roasts, while their opposite received the finishing operation of the fire, —
and others, tossing their everted boudins into the flames, and in a few seconds
withdrawing for the repast, each seizing his ample share, bemouthed the end in
quick succession to sever the chosen esculent, which, while yielding to the eager
teeth, coursed miniature rivulets of oily exuberance from the extremities of the
active orifice, bedaubing both face and chin, and leaving its delighted eater in all
the glories of grease!
Every man had now become his own cook, and, not to be backward, I closed in
with the overture.
Seizing a frying-pan replete with tempting levies from the "fleece," I twice
subjected it to its duty, and as often its delicious contents found ample storehouse; and even yet my longing appetite seemed loth to cry "hold, enough!"
The agreeable odor exhaled from the drippings of the frying flesh, contained in
the pan, invited the taste, —a temptation claiming me for its subject. Catching up
the vessel, a testing sip made way for the whole of its contents, at a single
draught, —full six gills! Strange as it may seem, I did not experience the least
unpleasant feeling as the result of my extraordinary potation.
The stomach never rebels against buffalo-fat. Persons, subsisting entirely upon
the flesh of these animals, prefer an assortment of at least one third solid
depouille.
The voyageur is never more satisfied than when he has a good supply of buffalobeef at his command. It is then his greasy visage bespeaks content, and his
jocund voice and merry laugh evince the deep-felt pleasure and gratification that
reign within.
Talk not to him of the delicacies of civilized life, —of pies, puddings, soups,
fricasees, roast-beef, pound-cake, and desert, —he cares for none of these
things, and will laugh at your verdancy!
He knows his own preference, and will tell you your boasted excellencies are not
to be compared with it. If you object to the sameness of his simple fare, he will
recount the several varieties of its parts, and descant upon each of their peculiar
merits. He will illustrate the numerous and dissimilar modes of so preparing
them, that they cannot fail to excite by their presence and appease by their taste
the appetite of the most fastidious. And then, in point of health, there is nothing
equal to buffalo-meat. It, alone, will cure dyspepsy, prevent consumption, amend
a broken constitution, put flesh upon the bones of a skeleton, and restore a dead
man again to life! — if you will give credence to one half of the manifold virtues
he carefully names in your hearing.
Oct. 14th. We were early en route, and made some twenty miles. Our hunter,
during the day, rejoined the caravan, laden with the best portions of three other
fat cows, to add to the fund of life and good humor enjoyed by each.
Late in the afternoon, we made camp opposite a heavily wooded island, called
Brady's Island, in memory of a man, so named, who was murdered upon it by his
companion some eight years ago.
The two were connected with a boat, laden with furs, on its passage to the
States. They had frequently quarrelled, and were generally upon otherwise bad
terms. On the day of the fatal occurrence, they were left alone in camp by the
rest of the boat's crew, who went in quest of buffalo. At their return, Brady was
found lying in his blood, — killed, as his companion affirmed, by the accidental
discharge of his own rifle.
The tale was received quite doubtingly, and its listeners were only deterred from
the execution of summary vengeance upon the murderer by thought of the bare
possibility of its truth.
The body of the unfortunate man was buried near the spot, —but being
subsequently disinterred by the wolves, his bones were left to bleach and
moulder in the sun and rains of heaven. Some of them were lying scattered near
by, upon our arrival, which were collected by the sympathizing voyageurs, who
bestowed upon them those rites of sepulture they had been so long and cruelly
denied.
The reader will naturally enquire, what became of the supposed murderer? His
was a fearful retribution, —a mournful tale of suffering, worse than death, till
death itself in pity came to his relief.
Soon after the melancholy incident previously related, the shallowness of the
Platte river compelled the company to abandon their boat, and make the best of
their way to the States on foot, —a distance of two hundred and fifty miles to the
nearest inhabitants, either Indian or white.
Their provisions running short, and no game at hand, a separation was had
about midway of their journey, and each one hurried to its termination as rapidly
as possible. The murderer, being but an indifferent walker, was soon left far in
the rear.
His comrades, on their arrival at the Pawnee village, sent two Indians to bring
him in, and continued their course to Council Bluffs.
Nothing further was known of the subject of our sketch, till some eight or nine
days subsequent, when a small party of engagés in the employ of the American
Fur Company, on passing the Pawnee village, were met by the head-chief, who
requested them to visit a white man lying sick at his lodge.
They went. He was the murderer, at the point of death. His story was briefly told.
The night succeeding the departure of his companions, in an attempt to light a
fire with his pistol, to disperse by its smoke the myriads of musquetoes that
swarmed around and nearly devoured him, an unknown charge it contained was
lodged in his thigh-bone — severing it to a thousand pieces. In this condition he
lay helpless. To walk was impossible;— he could scarcely move, far less dress
his wounds in a proper manner. He managed, however, to affix a piece of red
flannel to an upright stick, to tell the transient traveller the site of his supposed
last resting place, then, crawling with difficulty to the river-side, he remained six
days and nights—tormented by musquitoes, reduced by pain, and wasted by
continued hunger, till scarcely the wreck of manhood was left him.
It was then he longed for death to terminate his agony. Still he could not endure
the thoughts of dying.
Early in the morning of the seventh day, his ear caught the indistinct murmur of
sounds. Were they human voices? — No, he must be dreaming. He hears them
again, It is no dream; — they are human voices!
They approach. Is it to his assistance?
O'erjoyed he beholds two Pawnees bending over him, with compassion pictured
expressively upon their countenances. They gave him meat, they dressed his
wounds, and did everything in their power to alleviate his misery.
Oh, say not there is no pity in the bosom of the red man!
Having constructed a rude litter of poles, and using their own robes for his bed,
they carefully conveyed him upon their shoulders to the place he yet occupied.
But the care of sympathizing attendants failed to atone for previous neglect.
Mortification had already taken place, and death claimed him for a victim. He
expired in the presence of those whom the good chief had called to his bedside;—but, before his tongue refused to speak, he confessed the murder of
Brady, and owned the justice of his punishment in all the untold miseries he had
been compelled to endure.
"Vengeance is mine, and I will REPAY IT, saith the Lord!"
On resuming our journey the road gradually bore towards the hills upon the left,
(which presented an outline of conical eminences, rising, as the traveller
advances, to an elevation of four or five hundred feet,) and finally crossed them
at the point of an angle formed near the confluence of the two great forks of the
Platte, upon the east side; from thence, descending to the opposite bottom, we
reached a timberless spring and made camp soon after nightfall.
The lack of wood at this place was readily met by the great abundance of bois de
vache, (buffalo-chips,) the common substitute of the prairies; and, in a brief
interval, the camp-fires were merrily blazing, with all the appliances of cookery
about them.
Early the next morning, our hunter rejoined the caravan, bringing with him the
spoils of two more cows. He had passed the night upon the prairie alone, without
coat or blanket, or anything to screen him from the bleak autumn winds, that
swept over the naked plains, dancing their dirges to the dying year.
The sky gave evidence of an approaching storm, and we hastily started in quest
of some more sheltered spot in which to weather it. A few miles brought us to the
river, and, availing ourselves of a small supply of drift wood, we made halt.
The combustibles the vicinity afforded were soon collected, and the campfires
imparted their generous warmth despite the falling rain. Nor were they permitted
to remain long unembellished by the numerous kettles, frying-pans, and roastingsticks at command.
I here enjoyed full test of some of the many varieties of mountain fare hitherto so
freely enlarged upon by our voyageurs, —which, as they now asserted, would
make a man "shed rain like an otter, and stand cold like a polar bear!"—quaintly
adding, "if he could always live upon such 'didins,' he need never die!"
I must in justice confess that the real merits of our present "bill of fare," by far
exceeded my previous expectations.
The rain continued till near night; but little did we care. The choicest the prairie
afforded, was now before us, and, rain or shine, we were contented. Sound in
health and buoyant in spirits, we fully enjoyed ourselves, despite the frowning
elements.
A little before sundown, the rain subsided into a thick fog, and an old bull, in the
consequent obscurity, straggled close upon camp.
The abrupt passage of a rifle-ball through his lights, was his first feeling sense of
the presence of danger. The affrighted customer then retreated a few steps, and,
falling, surrendered himself to the resistless power of cold lead.
A large band of cows also made their appearance, in the same manner and our
hunter struck out to waylay them.
Permitting the unwitting animals to advance within good shooting distance, a
discharge from his rifle brought down one of their number. The band then
recoiled slightly; but, snuffing the odor of blood, they returned immediately to
their prostrate companion.
This was enough, —a charm now riveted them to the spot, —a strange
infatuation had seized upon them. They began by spurning the ground with their
feet, -then, bellowing, gored the fallen beast, as if forcing her to rise, —then,
rolling upon the grass, in demonstrative sympathy, —and, now that she had
ceased to struggle and lay yet quivering in death, they licked her bleeding
wounds and seemed to exercise a kind of mournful rivalry in the bestowment of
their testimonials of affection.
She is encircled by her companions. An effort to approach from without is
resisted by those within. A fight ensues, and all becomes confusion. Each turns
against her neighbor, and continues the strife till the space around the carcase is
again vacated; whereupon a general rush once more centers to the spot, and all
unite to react the former scene.
In this manner they persisted in their frenzied devotion to the fallen one, as if
determined to restore her to life and action, or perish by her side.
Meanwhile the hunter's rifle had been busily employed. But they heeded it not.
Four more of their number lay gasping in death upon the ensanguined ground;
and still they seemed no more disposed to leave the scene of slaughter than at
first. Sixteen successive shots were fired, each bearing blood, wounds and
death, and yet the spell was no nearer broken.
It was a spectacle vested with melancholy animation. The pawing, goring,
bellowing, licking of wounds, and struggles of rival affection, remained the same,
with no visible abatement of their vehemency.
The sun had set, and the sable hue of twilight empalled the blood-dank
slaughter-ground. The death-dealing rifle had ceased its sharp crack, and the
gore-scenting wolves, half starved and eager for their supposed prey, came
flocking upon every side, mingling their wobegone howlings with the piteous
moans of the spell-bound herd, and the loud whistlings of the prairie winds, —
and yet, they lingered.
At last the impatient hunter advanced. More affrighted at the presence of man
than the companionship of death, they now gave way, and reluctantly left the
field to him, who had so unfeelingly occasioned their burthen of mourning and
woe;—still, ever and anon stopping to gaze, as if longing to return and die with
those they loved!
All hands were now summoned to aid at the work of butchery; but the fastenshrouding darkness soon drove us back to camp, leaving the task not half
completed.
Our withdrawal from the premises was the signal for possession by the eager
wolves, whose ceaseless yelpings the livelong night, made the gloomy interval
doubly dismal. By morning, nothing but bones and thick pieces of skin marked
the scene of their recent revellings!
Thus early, I had learned, that to approach buffalo with success, the hunter
should carefully maintain the leeward, such being their remarkable sensitiveness,
they will sooner flee from the smell than the sight of a man. Their sense of smell,
with the wind, in fact, far exceeds their scope of vision. It is so extremely acute,
that even the fresh footsteps of a man, crossing their path, are to them a sure
cause of alarm and flight.
Of all the diversities of game indigenous to the mountains and prairies of the
great West, with the exception, perhaps, of the grizzly bear, no animal is more
tenacious of life than the buffalo. To shoot it in the head, is an inane effort. No
rifle can project a ball with sufficient force to perforate the thick hair and hide to
its brain, through the double scull-bone that protects it. A paunch shot is equally
vain. The only sure points for the marksman are, the heart, lights, kidneys, or
vertebra; and even then the unyielding victim not unfrequently escapes.
Buffalo, wounded in the skirts of the lights, have been known to live for several
days afterwards. I have witnessed their escape, even after the reception of fifteen
bullet-wounds, and most of them at such points as would have proved fatal to
almost any other animal.
In the summer of '43, I myself killed one of them, that had been shot through the
pussy surface at the butt of the heart, apparently four or five days previous,
which doubtless would have recovered had it remained unmolested.
A gun, suitable for killing this kind of game, should never carry to exceed forty
balls to the pound — a lesser bore would be almost entirely useless. The
distance generally required for a shot, the smallness of the ball, its liability to
variation from the wind, with its failure to "hold up" and retain its force, contribute
to render the use of such a piece little else than idle waste of ammunition.
Oct. 17th. The sun arose bright and clear, and with its first appearance the
caravan was in motion. Proceeding up the South Fork some ten miles we halted
for breakfast, and made arrangements for fording the stream.
Near us lay the carcase of one of the cows wounded on the previous evening,
and as yet scarcely dead. She had travelled thus far after being shot in the lights.
Our crossing was effected with little difficulty, but occupied till late in the
afternoon. The river was full a mile wide and very shallow, with a soft sandy bed,
requiring the strength of all the united teams to each waggon. The day proved
cold, and the water was like an application of ice to the naked skin. Our
teamsters, who were compelled to cross and recross, some dozen times, felt in
not the best humor, and were better pleased than any one else at the termination
of their unpleasant task.
Having safely gained the opposite bank, we travelled up the river five or six
miles, and halted for the night.
During our course the bottoms upon either side presented one dense,
interminable band of buffalo, far as the eye could reach. The whole prairie
pictured a living mass, moved by impulsive dread, as the breeze heralded our
approach, and the countless multitude made way before and on either hand.
Ever and anon, an old bull would linger, as if to intimidate, and not unfrequently
venture within gun-shot. One fellow, in particular, passed sidelong, for a mile or
more, stopping at intervals to gaze upon us, shaking his shaggy head in
defiance, as much as to say, "you dare not come near!"
Big Jim saw this, and his pride was wounded. The bull, in his opinion, had
challenged the whole party, and there was no one stout-hearted enough to
accept it.
Here was a chance for a full display of his bravery and skill. Ever since we had
reached the buffalo range, his proud spirit had yearned to become the death of
some one of these terrible monsters, that he might relate the deed of perilous
exploit to wondering posterity, and incite the rising generation to emulate his
noble achievement.
But, alas, for the fadeless laurels he might otherwise have won, in an evil hour
his rifle had been sacrificed for the extermination of a huge, venomous serpent.
He did the deed at one fell blow; — brave, but unfortunate! Yet he had one
consolation amid his troubles, — no victory is ever gained without some loss to
the conquerors.
Still, he needed his gun, for without it how was he to avenge the foul insult the
savage beast of the prairie was even now hurling in the very face of the shrinking
crowd? Something must be done.
With these cogitations, an idea struck him, —he could borrow a rifle; so,
advancing to a comrade, he exclaimed:
"Do lend me your rifle one minute!"
"Yes, Jim," was the ready reply. "But see you don't break it over the first paltry
little snake you come across!"
"That's a lie. 'Twas a big rattle-snake I broke mine over. 'Twasn't a paltry little
snake!"
Thus, vindicating his assaulted reputation, he took the gun and hastened to
prostrate the impudent barbarian inviting attack.
Jim looked at the bull, and the bull looked at Jim, — shaking his head, and
throwing the loose sand from beneath him high into the air with his feet, and
goring the ground with his horns of burnished ebony. If the creature had looked
terrible before, he now looked fourfold more so, in Jim's estimation.
Thinking caution the parent of safety, our hero was unwilling to venture further,
and so, prostrating himself at full length behind a clustre of absinthe, (sage,) he
planted his battery, having his high-crowned hat for a rest, and blazed away at
the bull's head.
The hardened wretch stood the shot without flinching. Looking for a moment at
the spot from whence the strange salute had proceeded, and again shaking his
head and snorting with scorn, he wheeled and slowly trotted off.
Eager to get a second trial to finish the work so nobly begun, our hero
commenced pursuit. Seeing him advancing, the bull thought it time to show his
heels, and in a few minutes was lost in the distance.
The courageous Nimrod now, for the first time, bethought him of his hat, which, in
the ardor of his bold charge, he had left at the spot chosen as his stand to hurl
death and destruction to the naughty bull. He hastened to regain it — but no hat
could be found; — the winds had borne it far away over the prairie, to be worn
out in search of a wearer, and the unlucky bravo, hatless, rejoined the caravan.
Here the truth at once flashed upon the minds of the waggish clique, that had
hitherto proved his sore annoyance, and they began anew:
"Now that beats me, clear out! How came you to give the bull your hat and leave
yourself bare-headed? That's another wrinkle!'
“It's no such thing," said Jim. "' The wind took it away; — and it's none of your
business neither. I paid for it!"
"True. But what did the wind want with your hat? Sure, if it needed a foot-ball, to
toss over the prairies, it would have taken your head, the lightest of the two!"
"You're a fool!" retorted Jim, indignantly.
"There, now. That's the time you cotcht it, my boy. Why, fellow, Mr. Jeems took
off his hat, out of pure politeness, — to win the good opinion of the bull. He were
right. Didn't you see how the gentleman cow bowed and scraped in turn. Why, he
throw'd the dirt clean over his back, not to be outdone in good breeding! Ah, but
the pesky wind! While Mr. Jeems were showing his brotten up, what had it to do,
but to snatch his hat and run off with it! Mr. Jeems are no fool! and the feller what
says he am, —(I want you all to understand me; Mr. Jeems have been most
shamefully abused and misused, and I can whip the chaps what's done it —
provided they'll let me; —I say, then, I want you all to understand me!) Mr. Jeems
are NO fool, and the man what says he am — is, —(I can't think of words bad
enough,)—is —is, as near the mark as though he'd drove centre!"
"Aye. Jim's right. You are all a pack of dough-heads to make fun of him in the
way you do. Suppose you'd be struck comical! Then what'd ye think of
yourselves!"
"Poor Jim. Shoot grass, kill horse, break gun, burn shoe, scorch foot, and go
bare-headed! Wat him mean?"
"I say, Jim. When're going a hunting again? —'case I want to go 'long too!"
CHAPTER VI.
Ash Creek. Pawnee and Sioux battle-ground. Bread-root. The Eagle's Nest. Mad
wolf. Number and variety of prairie wolves, —their sagacity. Mad bull. Making
and curing meat. Big Jim still unfortunate. Johnson's creek. McFarlan's Castle.
Deceptiveness of distances. Express from the Fort. Brave Bear. Bull Tail. Talk
with the Indians. Speech of Marto-cogershne. Reply. Tahtungah-sana's address.
Oct 18th. BEARING to the right, over a high undulating prairie, we struck the
North Fork of the Platte, after a drive of about twelve miles, and continuing up its
left bank a short distance, camped for the night at the mouth of Ash Creek.
The stream at this place is a broad bed of sand, entirely dry, except in the spring
months. Higher up, however, it affords a generous supply of pure running water,
sustained by the numerous feeders that force their way into it, from the high
grounds dividing the two rivers.
The valley is of variable width, and well timbered with beautiful ash groves, from
which the creek derives its name. Here are also found several varieties of wild
fruit indigenous to the mountains. As a whole. it presents to the eye a pretty
flower-garden, walled in by huge piles of argillaceous rock, and watered by
murmuring streamlets whose banks are ornamented with shade trees and
shrubbery.
Near camp had been the scene of a fierce and bloody battle between the
Pawnees and Sioux, in the winter of 1835. The affray commenced early in the
morning, and continued till near night. A trader, who was present with the Sioux,
on the occasion, describes it as having been remarkably close. Every inch of
ground was disputed — now the Pawnees advancing upon the retreating Sioux;
and now the Sioux, while the Pawnees gave way; but, returning to the charge
with redoubled fury, the former once more recoiled. The arrows flew in full
showers, —the bullets whistled the death-song of many a warrior, —the yells of
combating savages filled the air, and drowned the lesser din of arms.
At length arrows and balls were exhausted upon both sides, —but still the battle
raged fiercer than before.
War-club, tomahawk and butcher-knife were bandied with terrific force, as the
hostile parties engaged hand to hand, and the clash of resounding blows,
commingling with the clamor of unearthly voices which rent the very heavens,
seemed more to prefigure the contest of fiends than aught else.
Finally the Pawnees abandoned the field to their victorious enemies, leaving sixty
of their warriors upon the ensanguined battle-ground. But the Sioux had paid
dearly for their advantage; —forty-five of their bravest men lay mingled with the
slain. The defeated party were pursued only a short distance, and then permitted
to return without further molestation to their village, at the Forks of the Platte.
This disaster so completely disheartened the Pawnees, they immediately
abandoned their station and moved down the river some four hundred miles, —
nor have they again ventured so high up, unless in strong warparties.
About the same time the village on Republican fork of Kansas was also
abandoned, and its inhabitants united with the Loups.
The evidences of this cruel death-harvest were yet scattered over the prairie,
whose bones and sculls looked sad, indeed. One of the latter was noticed, near
camp, with a huge wasp's nest occupying the vacuum once filled by the subtle
organs of intellect. Strange tenant, truly, of a human scull, —but, perhaps, not an
unfit antitype of the fierce passions that whilom claimed it as their dwelling place.
A specimen of the bread-root, (psoralea esculenta,) was procured from the
creek-bank by one of the voyageurs. This is very common in the vicinity of the
mountains, and attains a size from twenty to thirty inches in circumference. It is
taprooted, and generally prefers the rich sandy soil of bottoms and ravines, —not
unfrequently penetrating to the depth of five or six feet. In shape, it is much like
the common beet. Its exterior is covered with a thick ligument of tough fibres,
curiously interwoven, enveloping a white pulpy substance, which is very sweet
and pleasantly tasted.
The day following we proceeded some twenty miles, and camped at a place
called the Eagle's Nest.
A few scattering trees at the right of the bottom, here mark the transition to the
high prairie. One of these was the war-eagle's eyry, upon which she rears her
annual brood, and teaches it to soar far away, or levy tribute from the
surrounding wilderness.
The proud bird of Jove was yet sailing aloft, in silent majesty, almost lost to vision
in the long space of intervening blue that told the grandeur of her flight; and,
tinged with the purple and gold of the setting sun, she seemed looking down with
a jealous eye upon the unwonted invaders of he earthly home. A few light clouds,
garnished with day's departing glory danced athwart the western sky, as the full
moon arose, hastening to reenter her nightly pathway, and course amid the array
of glittering worlds, and smile upon the wide realms of Solitude; —while
countless herds of grazing buffalo covered the prairies on either side of the broad
and silent river; and naught met the listening ear, save the dolesome hooting of
the midnight owl, as she resumed her nocturnal ditty, to enhance the deep
melancholy of loneliness; or the shrill whistlings of the prairie-winds, as they
sported in mirth and chanted their requiems to the dying year; or the terrific
bellowings of the hoarse-toned bison, the softening cadence of whose voices
sounded trebly mournful as it swept far along and became lost in the distance; or
yet, the dismal howlings of the half-starved wolves, that gathered by scores upon
every hill-top and renewed, in more piteous accents, their ceaseless concert; —
all these united to invest the scene, so magnificent in itself, with a savage
wildness, at once incitive of terror and admiration.
In our progress during the day I remarked, at frequent intervals, bare places
coated with saline efflorescences, and occasional plats of fine bluish grass,
(herba salée,)—appearances quite common from this onward.
Our night slumbers were disturbed by the quick discharge of firearms, which
instantly brought every man to his feet, rifle in hand. The cause of this alarm was
the appearance of a mad wolf among the caravan animals, and several shots
were fired before the guard could despatch him. He proved one of the largest of
his species, and looked fearful as his blood-red eyeballs and foaming mouth
were exposed by the camp-fire.
In the morning it was ascertained he had bitten nine head of horses and cattle.
The buffalo range affords every variety of wolves, common to the mountains and
regions still further west. Of these there are five distinct classifications, viz: The
big white, or buffalo wolf; the shaggy brown; the black; the gray, or prairie wolf;
and the cayeute, (wa-chunka-monet,) or medicine-wolf of the Indians.
The white and brown wolves are the most numerous, and follow the buffalo in
bands of hundreds, subsisting upon the carcases of such as die of themselves or
are slaughtered as their necessities demand.
These wolves behave with great sagacity in their predatory operations, and
appear to exercise a perfect understanding and concert of action with each other
on such occasions. First, stationing themselves by files at given distances along
the course their intended victim is expected to run, two or more of them enter the
herd of unconscious buffalo, and, singling out the fittest one, drive it to the track
at which their companions await to take part in the grand race. This done, the
victim is made to run the gauntlet between two rows of wolves. As it advances,
others join their fresh numbers to the chase, till at length, tired down and
exhausted in strength, the ill-fated animal falls ready prey to their greediness.
The poor creature is first hamstrung to prevent its escape, and then literally
devoured alive!
The black wolf is seldom met with in these parts. It nearly equals the white and
brown in size, and is fully as large as the common cur-dog.
The prairie wolf is not more than half the size of the above mentioned, and much
less ferocious. Its color is of a dark gray, and its fur quite soft and fine.
The cayeute or medicine-wolf compares with the common feist, and is of a
grayish color, much like that of the wild rabbit of the States. Its fur is fine and
thick, and might be turned to good account for the manufacture of caps, muffs,
&c.
The Indians cherish many superstitious notions in regard to this animal, and hold
it in great veneration. They consider it as the messenger employed by the Great
Spirit, on special occasions, to herald the approach of events interesting to the
welfare of his red children, and for that reason they are never known to harm or
molest it.
Just at daylight, a large band of buffalo crossed the river nearly opposite to
camp. It was headed by an old bull, that led the way, grunting and bellowing as
he advanced, as if in mock personation of the bugleman of a corps of cavalry.
Some three or four hundred cows and calves followed, side by side, with marked
and regular tread, like platoons of infantry marching in set step to music,
presenting a truly comical exhibition.
A voyageur seized his rifle and saluted with its contents the musicmaster and
captain-general of the advancing army, as he was about to ascend the river
bank. In an instant the whole detachment to "right about face," and retreat
precipitately to the rearward shore, with no other music than the clatter of hoofs
and the splashing of water, or order than the confused rivalry for speedy escape
from the unexpected presence of danger.
Oct. 20th. Resuming our course, during the forenoon, the strange deportment of
a buffalo bull near the trail arrested attention. He was running in a circle, at the
height of his speed, and narrowing its sphere at each gyration. Several of us rode
out to him, — but he still, continued, (with frothing mouth and protruding tongue,
swollen to the utmost distention of his jaws, rolling eye-balls, like globes of
clotted gore; and bellowing for pain,) following the last-decreasing limits of his
strange course, regardless of our presence.
He soon commenced whirling round and round, with faltering, half stumbling
steps, and finally fell prostrate before us, apparently in the last aroxysm of mortal
agony. In vain he struggled to rise, while his tongue bled from between his jaws,
chafed in fruitless effort to close them, and his head, keeping time with the
convulsive throes of his fast-waning strength, tore up the prairie-sod and lashed
the ground in the mad fury of effort.
The spectacle was one of the most striking exhibitions of excruciating pain I ever
witnessed. Even the rough mountaineers were excited to pity, and gladly
alleviated his miseries by hastening his end. A friendly bullet put a period to his
sufferings, and placed him far beyond the reach of summer's heat and winter's
cold, mad wolves and all the inexpressible horrors of hydrophobia.
At our noon encampment we commenced the process of "making meat,"
preparatory to passing a long distance devoid of game; and, as the reader may
be anxious to know what kind of an operation this is, I will explain. It consists
simply in cutting into thin slices the boneless parts of buffalo, or other meat, and
drying them in the wind or sun. Meat thus cured may be preserved for years
without salt. Ropes of raw hide were stretched around the waggons, upon which
the results of our labor were left to the finishing effects of the wind and sun as we
proceeded, —thus making an important saving in the item of time.
It is astonishing how long a time fresh meat may be kept without injury, upon the
grand prairies, in dry weather, when it receives the free access of air. Some of
that killed on our first arrival among buffalo was yet hanging to the waggons, as
sweet and sound as ever. I have known it to be preserved, in this way, for ten or
twelve days in the heart of summer. Meat, packed in snow, while in a frozen
state, may be retained fresh for months without injury. I have known an instance
of its being thus kept from January till June. The air is so pure and dry, it requires
but little effort to preserve meat, for any requisite length of time, almost at any
season of the year.
Our hunter, having proceeded in advance of the waggons during the afternoon,
was overtaken about sundown at a place selected for nightcamp, which he had
ornamented with the carcases of three cows, —and there again, was soon
witnessed another display of rare feasting, such as mountaineers alone know
how to appreciate and enjoy.
The night proved cold and uncomfortable, and the bright-glowing campfires
presented most captivating inducements to the shivering sentinels, as they paced
their dreary rounds, to step within its cheering influence. Big Jim, who was on the
third "relieve," thought it too bad he should be compelled to suffer so much from
cold, while a nice warm fire was permitted to waste its kind heat upon the bleak
air of night, without so much as one to enjoy its beneficence.
No, it would not do. " Why mayn't I just as well stand guard at the fire, as
elsewhere? I can, I'm sure. I'll stand this time, and not lay as I did before, and
then there'll be no danger of falling asleep and burning one's self; nor'll they have
the chance to twit me about lying guard and burning shins. I'll head'em this time,
and they wont know the difference."
So saying, he approached the fire, and, giving it a kick, extended his hands
towards its blaze, —ever and anon rubbing them together and then again
spreading them to receive its pleasing warmth; then turning his back to partake
alike of its comforting influences and obviate the jealousy that might otherwise be
engendered between front and rear.
Now, he stands attent, —he hears something move. He stretches himself to his
full height, on tip-toe, and gazes in the black envelope of surrounding night,
made doubly obscure in contrast with the refulgence of the camp-fire.
"How dark it has grown!" said Jim. "What can it be? Wonder if it's Indians. Pooh!
it's nothing but the wind. Bless me, I can't see the use of a poor devil's standing
guard on such a dark night as this! (stepping backward still nearer the fire,) he
can't see nothing, if he does. Feugh, —what is it smells so? (turning round.)
Good gracious, how hot my back is!"
The mystery of Jim's present predicament is easily explained. The skirts of his
jeans coat, having come in contact with the wind-tossed flames, caught fire, and
were burned to the shoulders before he was aware of the accident. The garment
was rendered entirely useless, and even his pantaloons were burnt to his skin, in
several places.
Jim began to think it as bad to stand as to lay guard, and concluded that, of the
two, fire was more dangerous than Indians;—for, one thing was certain, the
Indians had never yet injured him, but he could not say as much of fire!
In the morning, as may be supposed, our hero's last mishap was the prolific
subject of' comment, and the wags were promptly on the alert to amuse
themselves still further at his expense:
"Say, would you believe it! —That's the way Jim's hit upon to shine in this crowd,
—he burns up his old coat to make a light!"
"Ah, ha! So he means to shine by the light of his old clothes, and come it over us
in an underhand manner! Jim, that'll never do I tell you, once for all.”
"Wonder if he wont burn up himself next?"
"He? No. He's too green and sappy to burn himself, and so he takes his old
clothes!"
"Poor Jim. Shoot grass, kill horse, break gun, burn shoe, scorch foot, lose hat,
stick coat in him fire! Poor fellow. No can do without Jim, no how."
The third day succeeding the last mentioned adventure, we passed a stream,
called by the traders Johnson's creek, in memory of a man by that name who
was murdered in its vicinity, several years since, by the Indians.
He was a missionary, and on his way to Oregon, with a party headed by one
John Gray. As they were about to raise camp, one morning, a band of YanktauSioux came charging over the hills, and preparations were made to resist them.
Such a course Mr. Johnson felt scrupulous of acceding to, and stoutly protested
against it, —affirming it to be wrong.
As the savages approached, the ill-fated man stepped forward to meet them
unarmed, despite the remonstrances of his comrades, —imagining the Indians
would not kill him, as he was a missionary and had came to do them good.
They, however, proved regardless of him or his intended good, and he fell the
victim of his own foolish credulity. Three Indians fell in the conflict that ensued,
and he and they tilled the same grave.
Oct. 24th. About noon we crossed Gonneville's creek, a large easterly affluent of
the Platte. This stream also derives its name from a trapper, killed near it in an
Indian fight, some eight years since.
Upon the south bank of Gonneville's creek, ten or twelve miles from the river, is a
singular natural formation, known as the Court House, or McFarlan's Castle, on
account of its fancied resemblance to such a structure. It rises in an abrupt
quadrangular form, to a height of three or four hundred feet, and covers an area
of two hundred yards in length by one hundred and fifty broad. Occupying a
perfectly level site in an open prairie, it stands as the proud palace of Solitude,
amid her boundless domains.
Its position commands a view of the country for forty miles around, and meets the
eye of the traveller for several successive days, in journeying up the Platte. We
have been in sight of it for three days, and even now seem no nearer than at first,
notwithstanding our course, meanwhile, has borne not far from a direct line
towards it.
Here, for the first time, I remarked the deceptiveness of distances, on the high
prairies and in regions adjacent to the mountains. Sometimes an object will
appear as if within a mile, at most, which cannot be reached short of fifteen or
twenty miles; then, again, objects will seem to be much further off than they really
are.
I attribute this, in part, to three several causes:—First, the variable state of the
atmosphere, in regard to density. Second, the absence or plenitude of humid
exhalations and effluviæ in the air of different regions. Third, the peculiar locality
of some places in regard to the reception of the sun's rays.
In passing from Gonneville's creek to Fort Platte, we encountered no more
buffalo, —these animals having been driven back into the high prairies by bands
of strolling Indians.
If the prospect had hitherto been lonesome, it now seemed threefold lonely. The
hard-beaten footpaths that had furrowed the bottoms and plains, in all directions,
ever since our first entrance to the buffalo range, were still seen; but, unhonored
by the presence and unmarked by the footprints of their whilom travellers, they
looked like the once oft-trodden streets of some deserted city.
Late in the afternoon we were joined by two engagés from Fort Platte, whose
object it was to hasten our advance. Soon after, we entered upon a stretch of
burnt prairie, and were compelled to travel till daylight the next morning, before a
sufficiency of grass could be found for a camping place.
Oct. 25th. Resuming our course about midday, we had proceeded only a few
miles, when a mounted Indian appeared upon the opposite bank of the river, and
accosted us:
"Chay, cullo! Hanno chaum-pa-monet ha Mena-huska tour?" (Tell me, friend!—
Are those the Long-knife's wagons?)6
On being answered in the affirmative, he commenced crossing to join us.
Plunging into the river with his horse, he had proceeded about midway of the
stream, when the panting beast suddenly sank into the quicksand, throwing its
rider head foremost into the water. At length, having effected a ford, he hurried
up to us, profusely dripping with wet, as evidence of the thoroughness of his
recent drenching.
First shaking hands with the company, he began to inquire about liquor, affirming
the waggons contained that article, and adding, it was "right the Long-knife
should bring the fire-water to give to the red man," as did the Bad-medicine, —
but it was wrong to sell it. For his part he would not buy the fire-water. He would
buy blankets, knives, beads, and ammunition, not the fire-water; but the Longknife should give it to him.
The personage thus introduced was one of the chiefs of the Brulé Sioux, and
sported the name of Marto-cogershne, or Brave Bear. He was a turbulent fellow,
that proved the pest of his village traders. Slim and spare-made in person, he
was somewhat pale and sickly looking, and seemed about thirty years of age. His
arms were a short fusee, with a bow and arrows slung to his shoulders, and a
butcher-knife affixed to his belt. His hair was long, parted in front, and turned
backwards; that upon the occiput, being bound in a cluster with panther's skin,
hung in a plated cue and almost trailed the ground, while a lone eagle's plume
completed his headdress. A robe enveloped his body, which, with moccasins,
leggins, and breech-cloth, constituted his full costume, —a description of dress
responding to that almost universally common among mountain tribes.
We were soon joined by others of his people, who eagerly enquired respecting
the amount of liquor brought with us.
Among these were several individuals recognized by our voyageurs as old
acquaintances; particularly one, an old chief called Bull Tail, (Tah-tunga-sana,)
who was distinguished in attire from all his fellows by the addition of a hair-seal
cap and a frock-coat, which he had received as presents from the whites.
One of our party gave a favorable account of the old fellow, and related a story
much to his credit.
6
This term seems to call for a word of explanation. Our company was designated by the Indians as the Long-knife, or
American company,-a term by which all Americans are known among them. The American Fur Company, employing
almost exclusively Frenchmen, or individuals speaking the French language, receives the appellation of Wah-ceicha, or
the Bad-medicine company, —a phrase universally applied to the French among the mountain tribes.
The narrator, during the previous winter, while searching for stray horses among
the hills, had become so bewildered he was unable to find his way back to camp.
He thus wandered for four successive days, unarmed, with out food, and with but
a single robe for covering. His destiny would, doubtless, have been to perish, had
not the kind hearted Tah-tunga-sana discovered him, and, pitying his forlorn
condition, taken him to the village, upon his own horse, some twenty miles off,
going himself on foot the entire distance. Here, the lost one was treated to the
best the lodge of his deliverer afforded, and, when sufficiently recovered, he was
escorted to the nearest station of the whites.
I turned for another look at the worthy chieftain, who now rode up and greeted his
protegé with much cordiality.
He appeared to be about eighty years of age, and was gray-headed, sparevisaged, and much wrinkled. His coat, buttoned close around him, served for a
robe, while his matted ear-locks disclosed upon the one side a raven's and upon
the other a hawk's feather, for ornaments. His face, like those of his companions,
was liberally bedaubed with vermilion, and each cheek embellished with alternate
spots of white and black, by way of variety. His only weapons were a bow,
arrows, and a tomahawk-pipe.
As a whole, he presented rather a shabby and ludicrous appearance, that, were
it not for the recollection of his worthy conduct, would have excited, in the mind of
the beholder, far more of contempt than interest.
A Sioux squaw, the wife of a French engagé, accompanying us on her return
from the States, now received the marked attention of our visitors. It is rare that
an Indian will shake hands with a woman; but now, they might break through the
restraints of custom; this was a special case; she had visited the white man's
lodge, and could tell them many interesting things, —she was something more
than a common squaw, —they might shake hands with her. She was accordingly
greeted in a most flattering manner, and found tedious employment in answering
the numerous questions with which she was plied.
Continuing for a few miles further, we made camp just at nightfall, and were
promptly joined by a new recruit of inquisitive visitors, from an adjoining village.
The whole throng of Indians now numbered some thirty, and demanded a "talk"
with the Long-knife. Upon this a circle was formed, with the whites upon one side
and Indians upon the other, when Marto-cogershne opened the harangue in
behalf of his people.
He commenced in a low, distinct tone of voice. His robe, dawn loosely around
him, was held to its place by the left hand, exposing his right arm and shoulder.
As he proceeded he became more animated, and seemed to enter into the full
spirit of his discourse. The modulations of his voice, its deep intonations and
expressive cadences, coupled with a corresponding appropriateness of every
look and gesture, presented one of the most perfect specimens of delivery I ever
witnessed.
His speech, as imperfectly translated upon the occasion, ran as follows:
"Long-knife: We are glad to see you — we are glad to see your people, and
shake you all by the hand, that we may smoke together and be friends.
"Long-knife: We are glad the Great Spirit has put it into your heart to return with
the road-travellers, (waggons,) and the white buffalo, (oxen,) and the medicinedogs, (horses,) bearing fire-water, (whiskey,) blankets, and many other good
things, ere yet the chill winds and snows have compelled His children to light the
lodge-fires of winter. The Long-knife brings choice things to the red man, and it is
good that we trade. (Applause.)
"The Great Spirit is good to His children. To us He has given the buffalo, the elk,
the deer, and the antelope, that we may be fed and clothed, and furnished with
lodges to shelter us from the storms and cold. To us He has given the mountains
and prairies, for hunting grounds. For us He has taught the streams to flow, and
planted trees upon their banks, to give us food and drink, that we may meet
around our lodge-fires with comfort and rejoice in His goodness, even while he
spreads his white robe upon the hills, and lays the couch of winter upon the
plains.
"All these—all this country—everything that the Long-knife beholds are ours. The
Yellow-hair7 said truly, —all, all belong to us; —we have them —the Great Spirit
has given them to us, —they are ours! (Great applause.)
"Long-knife: You have come to trade with us:—it is good. Your people are wise,
and make many things;—you bring them to us, and we take them; but we give
you robes and horses in their stead;—we pay you for them all. Yet, the Longknife pays not for all he takes from us.
"Do I say the Long-knife steals? No. The Long-knife will not steal. He says, none
but bad men steal, and the Long-knife is not bad. But yet he takes our property
without paying for it! He kills our game, he eats our meat, he burns our wood, he
drinks our water, and he travels our country, and what does he give the red man
in exchange for all this? (Unbounded applause.)
"Long-knife and friend: My people are generous, —they are brave, they are all
soldiers. The Long-knife bears the fire-water in his roadtravellers, (waggons;)—
we have heard of it and are glad.
7
This is the name applied, by the Indians, to Gen. Clarke, one of the leaders of the first party of whites that ever crossed
the mountains. An allusion is here had to an expression made use of in his talk to the Sioux on that occasion.
"My people would drink of the fire-water that their strong hearts may become
stronger. It is good that they should drink it, —it is good that the Long-knife
should give it to them; that we be twice glad to see him, and bless him in our
hearts while we drink around our lodge-fires. (Applause.)
"Long-knife: Would you be our friend? Then give us the fire-water. My people are
generous, but they are brave. The Long-knife has taken our property, let him
refuse not the fire-water, lest they be angry and rise like the mountain bear,
nerved for conflict. Then will they take it of themselves and avenge the wrongs of
the red man!" (Great applause.)
Upon this, the Brave Bear resumed his seat, and the commandant began his
reply, which was rendered into the Sioux language, by their interpreter. The
purport of it was:
"It is true, the Great Spirit is good to His children. He made all things of which the
Brave Bear speaks, and He has given them to his children. The white and the red
man are alike his children; the buffalo, the elk, the deer, and the antelope, with
the wood, the water, and the whole country around, equally belong to both.
"I and many people have come as friends, to trade with you. We have smoked
with you before. The Long-knife takes nothing from you he pays not for. He buys
the things he bears to you in a far distant country, and throws for them the whiteiron8. He brings them to you and swaps them for robes and horses.
"He takes nothing without paying for it, unless it be that which the Great Spirit
has given equally to his children, —the white and the red man.
"Would the Brave Bear and his people be friends to us? We are friendly— we are
generous. We will give tobacco to the Brave Bear, that he and his people may
smoke and be our friends. But the Long-knife will not here give him the fire-water.
Let him come to the Long-knife's lodge, then shall he have of it a little, that he
may bless the Long-knife in his heart. The Brave Bear can have none now.
"The Brave Bear says, his people are generous, but they are brave, —they are
all soldiers. Be it so. My people are generous, —they are brave they are all
soldiers! Does the Brave Bear wish for fight? My people are ready to either
smoke or fight! The Brave Bear says, unless I give him the fire-water for his
people, they will nerve their arms for conflict, and take it! Will they? Let them try!
The Long-knife says, let them try!"
The conclusion of this reply was received with a bad grace by those to whom it
was addressed, and created great excitement among them. Several left for the
8
Silver. This phrase is the Sioux mode of expressing the act of paying money for any article.
village, obviously for the purpose of arming and returning with increased
numbers to the meditated attack.
Meanwhile our arms were put in a proper condition for resistance, and all needful
arrangements made to give the assailants a warm reception should they
commence upon us. This done, our commandant brought a few plugs of tobacco,
and, laying them before the Brave Bear, said:
"It is good that the Brave Bear and his people should smoke. Here is tobacco, —
let him take it to his warriors that we and they be friends; —or would he rather
fight?"
Bull Tail, (Tah-tunga-sana,) who had had hitherto remained silent, now arose and
addressed his companions:
"Tah-tunga-sana is grieved at the words of the Brave Bear. Would my brothers
fight the Long-knife, and rob him of what he has brought to us, that they may
become fools by drinking the fire-water?
"Who shall then bring us medicine-irons (guns) to kill our meat; or knives to
butcher it; or blankets and beads for our squaws; or the red-earth (vermilion) to
paint our faces when we arm for war? And, who shall bring us all the other things
so needful for us?
"The Long-knife will not do it. You rob him. No one will bring them to us. We shall
be without them! We shall be poor indeed!
"Brothers: Why would you drink the fire-water, and become fools? Would it not be
better that the Long-knife no more bring it to us? We give for it our robes and our
horses;—it does us no good. It makes us poor. We fight our own brothers, and
kill those we love, because the firewater is in us and makes our hearts bad! The
fire-water is the red man's enemy!
"Brothers: Tah-tunga-sana is old;—will you listen to him. He has been always the
friend of the pale-face. When first the Yellow-hair (Gen. Clarke) came to the red
man's lodge, Tah-tunga-sana took him by the hand. He will always take the paleface by the hand. He loves the pale-face. The pale-face is his brother, —he is our
brother! —He brings us many good things.
"Brothers: The Long-knife has spoken well. It is good that we smoke, —that we,
and the Long-knife, and his people may be friends. Let us accept his present,
and go to our lodges, and there tell to our children how kind the Long-knife is to
the red man."
The speech was received in silence, —no one expressing either approbation or
dissent, as the old man resumed his seat. The Brave Bear hung his head
sullenly, but said nothing. The talk had evidently come to a close. At last, Bull Tail
arose, and, shaking hands with the commandant and each of the company, took
the tobacco and left for the village. The others soon after, one by one, followed
his example, and we were finally rid of their unwelcome presence; not, however,
until they had stolen an axe and several other articles, despite the strictness of
our vigilance.
CHAPTER VII.
The Chimney. A bet. Spur of the Rocky Mountains. Scott's Bluff. Romantic
scenery. Mimic city. A pyramid. A monument. An elevated garden. Mountain
sheep. An Eden. Death in camp. The wanderer's grave. Horse creek and gold.
Goche's hole. Arrival at Fort Platte. Remarks by the way. Prairie travel. Locality
and description of the Fort. Indian lodges. Migratory habits of mountain and
prairie tribes. Scenes at Fort. Drunken Indians. Tragical event. Indian funeral.
Speech of Etespa-huska on the death of his father.
Oct. 26th. RAISING camp at daylight we resumed our way, and soon afterwards
arrived opposite the " Chimney," an extraordinary natural curiosity that had
continued in view and excited our admiration for some four days past.
This singular formation surmounts a conical eminence which rises, isolated and
lonely, in the open prairie, reaching a height of three hundred feet. It is composed
of terrene limestone and marl, quadrangularly shaped, like the spire of some
church, six feet by ten at its base, with an altitude of more than two hundred feet,
—making, together with the mound, an elevation of five hundred feet.9 A grand
and imposing spectacle, truly;—a wonderful display of the eccentricity of Nature!
How came such an immense pile so singularly situated? What causes united
their aid to throw up this lone column, so majestic in its solitude, to overlook the
vast and unbroken plains that surround it?
The "Chimney" is situated about three miles to the left of the mountain trail,
though it seems no more than eight hundred yards distant. Upon this question
our party entertained no small diversity of opinion. Some of the less knowing
were confident it could not exceed a half mile; and one fellow offered to bet five
dollars he could run to it in fifteen minutes.
The banter was promptly accepted, and the "greenhorn," doffing his coat and hat,
started in full expectation of winning the wager. But, instead of fifteen, it took him
forty-five minutes to reach the spot!
The day after passing the "Chimney," we entered a broad defile of lofty ridges,
and made camp. This locality is known as Scott's Bluff, which is, properly
speaking, a wing of the Rocky Mountains.
From Ash creek to this place, an almost precipitous wall of arenaceous rock,
limestone, and marl, shuts the high prairie from the river bottoms. As the traveller
proceeds, this wall or ledge gradually increases in height, and recedes from the
9
Formerly the "Chimney" was much higher than at present, and could be distinctly seen in a clear day as far as Ash
creek. The wind and the rain are continually reducing it; and it is said to be full fifty feet less than it was nine years ago.
Calculating from this datum, what must have been its altitude no longer remote than a couple of centuries!
river, sometimes to a distance of thirty or forty miles, till it unites in a chain of
hills, many of which are covered with sturdy pines, and others are mere heaps of
naked sand or indurated earth. The ridge then continues its course until it at
length becomes united with the lateral chain of the Rocky Mountains, which
bounds the "Plains of Laramie" upon the southeast.
At Scott's Bluff these hills crowd themselves abruptly towards the Platte, where
they present a most romantic and picturesque scenery.
Our camp was in a rich opening, or valley, two miles wide, and walled in upon the
right and left by perpendicular masses of earth and rock, that tower to a height of
from three to eight hundred feet. In reaching it, the trail bore leftward from the
river, about seven miles, through a level prairie, by which we were inducted to
the valley, without any perceptible variation of its general surface.
Near the entrance, upon our left, the spectacle was grand and imposing beyond
description. It seemed as if Nature, in mere sportiveness, had thought to excel
the noblest works of art, and rear up a mimic city as the grand metropolis of her
empire.
There stood the representations of palaces, with their domes and balustrades;
churches, with their spires and cupolas; and streets, with their gigantic dwellings,
stores, work-shops, and ware-houses. And there, also, were parks, pleasuregrounds, and public squares, all so admirably defined by the agency of the winds
and rains of ages, that the traveller might readily imagine himself to have arrived
within the precincts of the deserted city of some peopleless country, whose
splendor and magnificence once more than vied with the far-famed Palmyra of
the desert, even in its best days.
To the right arose a pile of sand-rock and marl in pyramidal form, three hundred
feet high, that occupied its prairie site detached from hill or other eminence.
Near this stood a more singular natural formation than any previously noticed. It
described a complete circle, of one thousand feet in circumference, and attained
an altitude of not far from four hundred feet. Its sides were of great regularity, and
represented masses of solid masonwork, rising abruptly till within sixty or seventy
feet of the summit, where they accline in a blunt, cone-like manner, reducing the
periphery to one third that of its base. At this point is reposed a semi-spherical
form, regularly jutting with a gradual swell upon all sides—then tapering to an
oval shape till near the apex, at which the whole mass is surmounted by a rude
imitation of sculptured flame, pointing upwards to the sun, as if this strange
monument of nature had been erected in honor of the great source of light and
heat!
Still further to the right, upon the river bank, is another immense pile, exceeding
either of the before described in altitude. It is an oblong square, and presents
erect lateral walls upon three sides, leaving upon the fourth a gradual acclivity
which faces the river. Its summit expands into a beautiful terrace containing an
area of several acres, which at the proper season is adorned with herbs, flowers,
shrubbery, and grass, like a pleasure garden upon some house-top, and
commands a view of the whole country, lending enchantment to the neighboring
scenes. Its base is about one mile long by twelve hundred yards wide, and points
endwise from the river towards the valley.
Then comes the continuous wall which bounds the locality upon the right. This
likewise presents a level summit, varying from fifteen yards to a half mile in
breadth, for a distance of ten miles, when, slowly sinking in its course, it finally
becomes lost in the prairie.
Covered with grass and shrubs, it is the favorite home of the mountain sheep,
where she breeds and rears her young, secure in her inaccessible fastnesses;
and ofttimes from its precipitous edge, at elevations of six or eight hundred feet
above the adjacent prairie, will her head and mammoth horns be seen, peering in
wonder upon the rare traveller, as he passes adown the valley.
The interval between the two mural ridges is of uniform width for about ten miles,
and is watered by a beautiful stream nearly the whole distance, when it inducts
the traveller to the open prairie, —leaving the immense wall which bounded it
upon the leftward, at his entrance, transformed to high conical hills, covered with
pines, and almost lost to view in the growing space; while that upon his right,
diminishing in size, gradually disappears and unites with the far-spreading plain.
Most of the varieties of wild fruits indigenous to the mountains are found in this
vicinity, and also numerous bands of buffalo, elk, deer, sheep, and antelope, with
the grizzly bear.
In the summer months the prospect is most delightful, and affords to the admiring
beholder an Eden of fruits and flowers. No higher encomium could be passed
upon it than by employing the homely phrase of one of our voyageurs. In
speaking of the varied enchantments of its scenery at that season, he said: "I
could die here, then, —certain of being not far from heaven!"
Before leaving this romantic spot, feelings of gloom and melancholy usurped
those of pleasing admiration, by the death of one of our number.
The deceased was on his way to the mountains for the recovery of his health,
with a frame fearfully reduced by the ravages of that fell destroyer consumption.
For several days past he had declined rapidly, owing to the weather and the
unavoidable exposure incident to our mode of travelling. To-day the cold was
more than usually severe, and an uncomfortable rain and sleet commenced soon
after camping. In an attempt to pass from the waggons to the fire, he staggered
and fell; —before any one of us could arrive to his assistance, he had breathed
his last.
We buried him upon the bank of the stream that wends its course through the
valley. Darkness, with its sable pall, had enveloped the scene as we covered him
from view, and left the winds and the wolves to howl his requiem, until the voice
of spring shall bid the wild-flowers grow and bloom upon his grave.
This lovely valley had before this witnessed the death-scene of one who left his
bones to bleach within its limits. His name was Scott, from whom the neighboring
eminences derive their present appellation.
Attracted by the enchanting beauty of the place and the great abundance of
game the vicinity afforded, he wandered hither alone and made it his temporary
residence. While thus enjoying the varied sweets of solitude, he became the prey
of sickness and gasped his life away; —and none were there to watch over him,
but the sun by day and the stars by night! or fan his fevered brow, save the kindly
breezes; or bemoan his hapless fate, other than the gurgling stream that sighed
its passing sympathy beside the couch of death!
There is a mournful interest and a touching melancholy associated with this
simple story, that must thrill with emotion the finer feelings of our nature. The
incident, which had so recently transpired, contributed to enhance these gloomy
sensations to an extent I never before experienced. I felt — I cannot tell how. I
felt like giving vent to my feelings in verse. Yet, I cannot write poetry. I made the
attempt, however, and here is the result before the reader:
THE WANDERER'S GRAVE.
Away from friends, away from home
And all the heart holds dear,
A weary wand'rer laid him down,
Nor kindly aid was near.
And sickness prey'd upon his frame
And told its tale of woe,
While sorrow mark'd his pallid cheeks
And sank his spirit low.
Nor waiting friends stood round his couch
A healing to impart, —
Nor human voice spoke sympathy,
To sooth his aching heart.
The stars of night his watchers were,
His fan the rude winds' breath,
And while they sigh'd their hollow moans,
He closed his eyes in death.
Upon the prairie's vast expanse
This weary wand'rer lay;
And far from friends, and far from home,
He breath'd his life away!
A lovely valley marks the spot
That claims his lowly bed;
But o'er the wand'rer's hapless fate
No friendly tear was shed.
No willing grave received the corpse
Of this poor lonely one;
His bones, alas, were left to bleach
And moulder 'neath the sun!
The night-wolf howl'd his requiem,
The rude winds danced his dirge;
And e'er anon, in mournful chime,
Sigh'd forth the mellow surge!
The Spring shall teach the rising grass
To twine for him a tomb;
And, o'er the spot where he doth lie,
Shall bid the wild flowers bloom.
But, far from friends, and far from home,
Ah, dismal thought, to die!
Oh, let me 'mid my friends expire,
And with my fathers lie.
Oct. 27th. The day being clear and pleasant, we travelled rapidly, and in the
course of the afternoon reached Horse creek. This stream is a large affluent of
the Platte, heading in the Black Hills, and, tracing its way in a northeasterly
direction, through a timberless country, (in many places mere barren wastes,)
makes its debouchment nearly fifteen miles above Scott's Bluff.
The region adjacent to its head is represented as being rich in minerals, among
which is gold; and from my limited information respecting its geological character,
I am inclined to accredit the rumor. The story runs thus:
Six or eight years since, Du Shay, an old French hunter, while ranging in the
parts above alluded to, on crossing one of the two principal forks that unite to
form the main stream, observed a singular looking something in the creek bed,
which he picked up. It was apparently a fragment of rock, very heavy, and
contained numerous yellow specks.
Having deposited it in his bullet-pouch for preservation, subsequently, in
approaching a band of buffalo, its weight became so annoying he thoughtlessly
threw it away. The year following he visited Santa Fe, at which place his pouch
was accidentally emptied, and, among its contents, several bright particles, that
had become parted from the rock, attracted the attention of the Mexicans. These
were carefully gathered up, and, upon due examination, proved to be virgin gold.
The old man, on his return, searched diligently for the spot that afforded the
treasure he had so foolishly thrown away, —but (not being intellectually one of
the brightest gems of nature's casket, and feeble and childish withal) he was
unable to find it, or even to decide upon which of the two streams it belonged.
Upon one of the affluents of Horse creek, thirty or forty miles south of the Platte,
is a beautiful valley, shut in by two ridges of precipitous hills, known as Goche's
hole.
This locality, in wildness and picturesque beauty, claims affinity to the
neighborhood of Scott's Bluff. Its area is broad and of several miles extent, —
inaccessible except at two or three points. The surrounding hills are generally
composed of marl and earthy limestone. Towering in vertical walls to the height
of many hundred feet, they present the appearance of a strongly fortified place.
The soil is remarkably rich, well watered, and timbered, —strikingly contrasting
with the nude sterility and desolation of the circumjacent country.
A heavy fall of snow during the night prevented our leaving camp until the fourth
day subsequent, when were again en route. Having passed the night of Nov. 1st
at Morain's Point, the next day we arrived at Fort Platte. This latter place is
situated a short distance above the mouth of Larramie river, and is our point of
present destination.
From Horse creek to the Larramie river, the bottoms, in many places, afforded
dense groves of heavy timber—the more agreeable as we had been so long
accustomed to open and woodless prairies.
The geological character of the country is nearly the same with that previously
described—though possessed of greater humidity of soil. The formations, noticed
in the vicinity of Scott's Bluff and Goche's hole, have merged into strata of
limestone of various shades and compactness, with occasional layers of primitive
sandstone.
The prairies were beautifully undulating, and covered with lusty growths of dried
vegetation. The hills, now and then, were ornamented with a few scattering pines
and cedars, which stood like lonely sentinels to watch the progress of changing
seasons.
As some of my readers may entertain the design of visiting these remote regions,
or passing beyond them to the more distant shores of the Pacific, it may not be
deemed a digression for me to present a few hints as to the most advisable
mode of travelling upon this long and wearisome journey.
A caravan of waggons should make only two camps per day. Travellers should
adopt the rule to start at daylight and continue until ten o'clock, A. M., —then,
having halted some six hours, (if it be summer, if spring or fall, four only,) again
resume their way till after sundown.
Fifteen miles, upon an average, are as far as an ox team should travel per day,
—mules or horses might keep on for twenty miles.
Caravans ought always to lay by in rainy Weather, as the wet and irritation
consequent upon draught, gall the neck and shoulders of their animals and soon
render them unfit for service;—every precaution should be taken to preserve their
strength and soundness, as upon them rests the sole dependence of a travelling
company.
A mounted party ought, as a general thing, to observe the same rules, and not
think of averaging over twenty-five miles per day. They might travel later; but in
such cases, they should always proportionally lengthen their noon halt.
In the above manner the entire journey from Independence to the Pacific may be
performed without injury to animals, or the expenses attendant upon a relay.
Fort Platte, being next to Fort Hall, the most important point on the route to
Oregon, calls for a brief description. This post occupies the left bank of the North
Fork of Platte river, three-fourths of a mile above the mouth of Larramie, in lat.
42° 12' 10" north, long. 105° 20' 13" west from Greenwich10, and stands upon the
direct waggon road to Oregon, via South Pass.
It is situated in the immediate vicinity of the Oglallia and Brulé divisions of the
Sioux nation, and but little remote from the Chyennes and Arapaho tribes. Its
structure is a fair specimen of most of the establishments employed in the Indian
trade. Its walls are "adobies," (sun-baked brick,) four feet thick, by twenty high —
enclosing an area of two hundred and fifty feet in length, by two hundred broad.
At the northwest and southwest corners are bastions which command its
approaches in all directions.
Within the walls are some twelve buildings in all, consisting as follows: Office,
store, warehouse, meat-house, smith's shop, carpenter's shop, kitchen, and five
dwellings, —so arranged as to form a yard and cores, sufficiently large for the
accommodation and security of more than two hundred head of animals. The
number of men usually employed about the establishment is some thirty, whose
10
Obs. Lt. Fremont, in 1842. 96
chief duty it is to promote the interests of the trade, and otherwise act as
circumstances require.
The Fort is located in a level plain, fertile and interesting, bounded upon all sides
by hills, many of which present to view the nodding forms or pines and cedars,
that bescatter their surface, —while the river bottoms, at various points, are
thickly studded with proud growths of cottonwood, ash, willow, and box-elder,
thus affording its needful supplies of timber and fuel.
One mile south of it, upon the Larramie, is Fort John, a station of the American
Fur Company. Between these two posts a strong opposition is maintained in
regard to the business of the country, little to the credit of either.
At the time of our arrival at the Fort, two villages of Indians were encamped near
by. Their lodges, being the first I ever saw, proved objects of great interest to me.
The lodge of a mountain Indian consists of a frame work of light poles, some
twenty-five feet long, bound together at the small ends, and raised by planting
the opposite extremities aslope, at given distances apart, so as to describe a
circle, at the base, converging to a triangular apex, for roof and sides; —over this
is spread a covering of buffalo robes, so nicely dressed and seamed, it readily
sheds rain and excludes the fierce winds to which the country is subject. A small
aperture at the top, affords passage for the smoke emitted from the fire
occupying the centre ground work. The entrance is at the side, where a large
piece of undressed buffalo skin (hung from the top and so placed as to be
opened or closed, at pleasure, upon the ingress or egress of the inmate)
furnishes the simple substitute for a door.
These lodges (some of them containing quantities of roofage to the amount of
ten or fifteen buffalo skins) are large and commodious; and, even comfortable, in
the severest weather; the heat from the centre fire, being refracted on striking the
sloping sides, communicates an agreeable warmth to every part.
An Indian lodge, in the summer, is admirably adapted to the pleasure of its
occupants, —by raising the lower extremities of the envelope and securing them
at a proper elevation, a free passage of air is obtained, which greatly contributes
to increase the merits of the delightful shade afforded by the superstructure.
A lodge of the largest size may easily be made to accommodate fifteen persons.
The interior is arranged by placing the fixtures for sleeping at the circumference
of the circle, which afford seats to the inmates, and thus a sufficient space is left
vacant between them and the centre fire.
This kind of dwelling is the one almost universally adopted by the mountain and
prairie Indians, and is, perhaps, better suited to their condition and mode of life
than any other that could be devised.
Dependent solely upon the chase for a subsistence, the various Indian tribes
inhabiting the mountains and countries adjacent can occupy no fixed residences.
Contrary to the habits of more eastern nations, among whom agriculture
commands attention to a greater or less extent, they are continually necessitated
to rove from place to place in pursuit of game.
Give to one of them a bow, arrows, knife, lodge, and running horse, and he is
rich, happy and contented. When the erratic propensities of the buffalo (upon
which is his almost exclusive dependence) compel him to change his location, he
has only to pull down his lodge, saddle his horse, and away.
So accustomed are they to this incessant rambling, they regard it more as a
pleasure than an inconvenience. I have frequently seen hundreds of families
moving together, —presenting to the unsophisticated beholder a novel and
amusing spectacle, —with their horses, mules, dogs, men, squaws, children, and
all the paraphernalia of savage domestic economy, and the rude accoutrements
of peace and war, commingled indiscriminately.
The Sioux tribe, to whose country we have now introduced the reader, is,
perhaps, the largest Indian nation upon the continent of North America, with the
exception of the ancient Mexicans, if indeed they may be called Indians. This
tribe occupies a territory extending from the St. Peters, of the Mississippi, to the
Missouri, and from thence to the forks of the Platte, and up that river to its headwaters. They are supposed to number not far from eighty thousand men, women,
and children, and are divided into many fractional parts, each bearing its own
name, yet speaking the same language and claiming a common nationality.
Of these divisions are the Brulés, Oglallas, Yanktaus, Piankshaws, Minecosias,
Blackfeet, Broken-arrows, and Assenaboins, with many others whose names
have escaped my recollection. The only perceptible difference in language, is, in
the pronunciation of words like the following, meallo, appello and Lacota, —those
upon the Mississippi, and some in the vicinity of the Missouri, pronouncing them
meaddo, appeddo, and Dacota.
The members of this nation, so far as my observation extends, are a cowardly,
treacherous, thieving set, taken as a body — and are well deserving the
appellation of mean and contemptible; though there are some honorable
exceptions to the remark.
Any effort to civilize them must necessarily prove tedious, if not altogether
impracticable, while they adhere to their present roving habits; though three
several missionary stations have been recently established among them, with
slight success; viz: at St. Peters, Lac qui Parle, and Traverse des Sioux. But the
Indians of those sections, being under the more direct influence of the U. S.
Government, have begun to abandon their former wandering habits, and betake
themselves to agricultural pursuits.
The term Sioux, as applied to this nation, is of Franco-Canadian origin — being a
corruption of the word sued, and means drunk or drunken, —in allusion to their
excessive fondness for liquor and predilection to inebriacy. The name by which
they call themselves, and are known among other tribes, is Lacota, or Cutthroats, —for such is the literal meaning of the term; and rarely, indeed, were
ever a pack of scoundrels more justly entitled to the appellation.
The night of our arrival at Fort Platte was the signal for a grand jollification to all
hands, (with two or three exceptions,) who soon got most gloriously drunk, and
such an illustration of the beauties of harmony as was then perpetrated, would
have rivalled Bedlam itself, or even the famous council chamber beyond the
Styx.
Yelling, screeching, firing, shouting, fighting, swearing, drinking, and such like
interesting performances, were kept up without intermission, — and woe to the
poor fellow who looked for repose that night, —he might as well have thought of
sleeping with a thousand cannon bellowing at his ears.
The scene was prolonged till near sundown the next day, and several made their
egress from this beastly carousal, minus shirts and coats, —with swollen eyes,
bloody noses, and empty pockets, —the latter circumstance will be easily
understood upon the mere mention of the fact, that liquor, in this country, is sold
for four dollars per pint.
The day following was ushered in by the enactment of another scene of comicotragical character.
The Indians encamped in the vicinity, being extremely solicitous to imitate the
example of their "illustrious predecessors," soon as the first tints of morning
began to paint the east, commenced their demands for firewater; and, ere the
sun had told an hour of his course, they were pretty well advanced in the state of
"how came ye so," and seemed to exercise their musical powers in wonderful
rivalry with their white brethren.
Men, women, and children were seen running from lodge to lodge with vessels of
liquor, inviting their friends and relatives to drink; while whooping, singing,
drunkenness, and trading for fresh supplies to administer to the demands of
intoxication, had evidently become the order of the day. Soon, individuals were
noticed passing from one to another, with mouths full of the coveted fire-water,
drawing the lips of favored friends in close contact, as if to kiss, and ejecting the
contents of their own into the eager mouths of others, —thus affording the
delighted recipients tests of their fervent esteem in the heat and strength of the
strange draught.
At this stage of the game the American Fur Company, as is charged,
commenced dealing out to them, gratuitously, strong drugged liquor, for the
double purpose of preventing a sale of the article by its competitor in trade, and
of creating sickness, or inciting contention among the Indians, while under the
influence of sudden intoxication, —hoping thereby to induce the latter to charge
its ill effects upon an opposite source, and thus, by destroying the credit of its
rival, monopolize for itself the whole trade.
It is hard to predict, with certainty, what would have been the result of this
reckless policy, had it been continued through the day. Already its effects
became apparent, and small knots of drunken Indians were seen in various
directions, quarrelling, preparing to fight, or fighting, —while others lay stretched
upon the ground in helpless impotency, or staggered from place to place with all
the revolting attendencies of intoxication.
The drama, however, was here brought to a temporary close by an incident
which made a strange contrast in its immediate results.
One of the head chiefs of the Brulé village, in riding at full speed from Fort John
to Fort Platte, being a little too drunk to navigate, plunged headlong from his
horse and broke his neck when within a few rods of his destination. Then was a
touching display of confusion and excitement. Men and squaws commenced
bawling like children; —the whites were bad, very bad, said they, in their grief, to
give Susu-ceicha the fire-water that caused his death. But the height of their
censure was directed against the American Fur Company, as its liquor had done
the deed.
The body of the deceased chief was brought to the Fort, by his relatives, with a
request that the whites should assist at its burial; but they were in a sorry plight
for such a service. There, however, were found sufficiently sober for the task,
and accordingly commenced operations.
A scaffold was soon erected for the reception of the body, which, in the mean
time, had been fitted for its last airy tenement. This duty was performed by the
relatives of the deceased in the following manner: it was first washed, then
arrayed in the habiliments last worn by Susuceicha during life, and sewed in
several envelopes of lodge-skin, with the bow, arrows, and pipe once claiming
him as their owner. This done, all things were ready for the proposed burial.
The corpse was then borne to its final resting place, followed by a throng of
relatives and friends. While moving onward with the dead, the train of mourners
filled the air with their lamentations and rehearsals of the virtues and meritorious
deeds of their late chief.
Arrived at the scaffold, the corpse was carefully reposed upon it facing the east,
while beneath its head was placed a small sack of meat, tobacco and vermilion,
with a comb, looking-glass, and knife, and at its feet, a small banner that had
been carried in the procession. A covering of scarlet cloth was then spread over
it, and the body firmly lashed to its place by long strips of raw hide. This done,
the horse of the chieftain was produced as a sacrifice for the benefit of his master
in his long journey to the celestial hunting ground.
The above mode of sepulture is that commonly practised by the mountain tribes.
It is seldom indeed they ever dispose of their dead in any other way than by
placing them either upon scaffolds, branches of trees, or in some elevated
position, not unfrequently covered by lodges, where they are left to moulder and
waste in the winds and rain, till the bones falling one by one upon the prairie, are
gathered up by surviving friends, and finally entombed in mother earth.
The corpse of the ill-fated man being thus securely fixed in the airy couch
assigned it, to await the speedy process of dissolution, and mingle with its
kindred earth, that its bones might find their proper places beneath the prairie
sod, the village once acknowledging him as its head now met round the scaffold,
men, women, children, and little ones, to bewail the sad fate that had bereaved
them of their loved chieftain.
First, encircling it at a respectful distance, were seated the old men, next the
young men and warriors, and next the squaws and children. Etespa-huska, (Long
Bow,) eldest son of the deceased, thereupon commenced speaking, while the
weeping throng ceased its tumult to listen to his words:
"Oh, Susu-ceicha! thy son bemourns thee, even as was wont the fledgelings of
the war-eagle to cry for the one that nourished them, ere yet thy swift arrow had
laid him in dust. Sorrow fills the heart of Etespa-huska; sadness crushes it to the
ground and sinks it beneath the sod upon which he treads.
"Thou hast gone, oh Susu-ceicha! Death hath conquered thee, whom none but
death could conquer; and who shall now teach thy son to be brave as thou was
brave; to be good as thou wast good; to fight the foe of thy people and acquaint
thy chosen ones with the war-song of triumph! to deck his lodge with the scalps
of the slain, and bid the feet of the young move swiftly in the dance? And who
shall teach Etespa-huska to follow the chase and plunge his arrows into the
yielding sides of the tired bull? Who shall teach him to call for his prey from the
deer, the elk, and the antelope, as thou hast done, or win honors from the
slaughtered bear!
"None. Etespa-huska has no teacher. He is alone. Susu-ceicha is dead!
"But thou wilt soon gain the happy country. Thy journey is short. There wilt thou
bestride the fleet horses that never tire, and roam amid the fruits and flowers, the
sweet waters and pleasure-groves of that lovely clime; for thou art worthy.
"And, oh, Wakantunga! (Great Spirit,) do thou pity Etespa-huska. Do thou teach
him to be brave and good like his father, for who is there to pity or teach him now
he is left alone!"
Then, turning to the audience he continued:
"Brothers: Strong was the arm of Susu-ceicha, and fleet was the arrow shot from
his bow. Thirty and five of the enemy hath he slain in battle, whose waving locks
were the trophies that ofttimes measured the quick step of the scalp-dance.
Fourscore and ten were the medicine-dogs he brought from the land of the
foeman, that their shrill neighings might greet the ears, and their strong backs
carry the people he loved; for brave was the heart of Susu-ceicha!
"What warrior ever came to his lodge and went hungry, or naked, or needy away.
What widow or orphan of his people blessed not their chief, when he returned
from the chase and apportioned to them their wonted dues from the choice spoils
of the buffalo! for generous was the soul of Susu-ceicha.
"Brothers: Susu-ceicha is dead. No more shall his voice be heard in your
councils, or his courage lead you to victory, or his generosity rejoice the hearts of
the needy, the widow, and the orphan. Etespahuska laments a father and a
teacher. The Burnt-thighs11 a mighty chieftain; and the nation its bravest warrior!
We all mourn him; sorrow fills the hearts, and tears wash the cheeks of his
people. It is good that we bemourn him, and mingle with the winds the voices of
our lamentation, for who shall now stand in the place of Susu-ceicha.
"Brothers: Let us stamp his memory upon our hearts and imitate his virtues, that
our acts may rear to him a living monument, which may endure till time itself shall
die!"
No sooner had the orator ceased, than a tremendous howl of grief burst from the
whole assemblage, men, women, and children, which was renewed in quick
succession for several hours, when finally the bewailing multitude retired to their
lodges.
11
This is the interpretation of the Indian name which the French have supplied by the word Brulé.
CHAPTER VIII.
Coast clear, and Trade opened. More visitors. Smoking out the natives. Incident
illustrative of Indian character. Expeditions for trade. Black Hills Rawhide. An
Indian and a buffalo chase. Deep snow, extreme cold, and painful journey. L'eauqui-court. Remarks. Lost. White river; its valley, fruits, and game. Building site.
The Devil's Tea-pot. Troubles with Indians. Theft and its punishment. Indian
soldiers. Christmas extras. Outrageous conduct. Rascality of traders. "That Old
Serpent." Indian superstition, religious tenets and practices. Notions upon
general morality.
THE events of the day had for the present put an effectual stop to dissipation
among the Indians, and not long afterwards they began to pull down their lodges
and remove to the neighborhood of buffalo, for the purpose of selecting winterquarters.
The disgusting scenes connected with our arrival at the Fort had pretty much
ceased on the evening of the second day, and everything, with a few exceptions,
began to assume its wonted aspect.
The winter trade was now considered fully opened. Parties were sent with goods
from the Fort to different villages, for the purpose of barter, and affairs began to
show a business-like appearance.
Some two weeks subsequently, a band of Brulés arrived in the vicinity. They had
come for a drunken spree, and soon opened a brisk trade in liquor.
Our visitors crowded the Fort houses in quest of articles of plunder, and became
an incessant source of annoyance to the engagés. One room, in particular, was
thronged almost to the exclusion of its regular occupants. The latter, losing all
patience, at length hit upon a plan to rid themselves of the intruders.
After closely covering the chimney funnel, by aid of some half rotten chips a
smoke was raised; the doors and windows being closed to prevent its egress. In
an instant the apartment became filled to suffocation, —quite too much so for the
endurance of the wondering savages, who gladly withdrew to gain the pure air of
the exterior. On being told it was the Longknife's medicine12, they replied:
"Ugh! Wakea sutiello ha Mena-huska tour!" (Ugh! The Long-knife's medicine is
strong!)
12
This word, in Indian signification, means any person or thing possessed of extraordinary or supernatural powers, as well
as any act for conciliating the favor and obtaining the assistance of the Great Spirit. That medicine is the strongest which
is the most efficient for its intended purposes.
During their stay at the Fort, an incident occurred which will serve to illustrate a
singular trait in the character of these Indians.
A brave, named Bello-tunga, (Big Eagle,) received a blow over the head from a
half crazed drunken trader, which came very near terminating in serious
consequences. What would have been the result, it is hard to tell, had not the
whites promptly interfered, and, with much effort, succeeded in pacifying the
enraged savage by presenting him a horse.
At first he would admit of no compromise short of the offender's blood — he had
been struck by the pale-face, and blood must atone for the aggression, —unless
that should wipe out the disgrace, he could never again lift up his head among
his people, —they would call him a coward, and say the white man struck Bellotunga and he dared not to resent it.
The services of his father, hereupon, were secured in behalf of the offending
party, which, after great ado, finally effected an adjustment of the difficulty.
An Indian considers it the greatest indignity to receive a blow from any one, even
from his own brother; —and, unless the affair is settled by the bestowment of a
trespass offering on the part of the aggressor, he is almost sure to seek revenge,
either through blood or the destruction of property. This is a more especial
characteristic of the Sioux than of any other nation. In fact, the Snakes, Crows,
Arapahos, Chyennes, and most other tribes are far less nice in its observance, —
though all regard the like an insult that justly calls for revenge.
Soon after, an expedition was detached to Fort Lancaster, on the South Fork
Platte, and another to White river, an affluent of the Missouri, some eighty miles
northwest of the main trading post. The latter party includes myself with its
number.
Our purpose was to build houses in the vicinity of White river, and thus secure
the trade of several villages of Brulés that had selected their winter quarters in
the neighborhood, and were anxiously awaiting our arrival.
On the last of November we were under way with two carts freighted with goods
and liquor, accompanied by only six whites, one negro, and an Indian.
Crossing the Platte opposite the Fort, we continued our course, west by north,
over a broken and tumulous prairie, occasionally diversified by thick clusters of
pines and furrowed by deep ravines, and abounding in diminutive valleys, whose
tall, withered grass gave evidence of the rich soil producing it. To our left the
high, frowning summits of the Black Hills began to show themselves in the long
distance, like dark clouds, and planted their dense pine forests upon the broken
ridges whose irregular courses invaded the cheerless prairie far eastward.
A ride of twenty miles brought us to Rawhide, where we passed the following
night and day.
This creek traces its course over a broad sandy bed, through a wide valley of rich
clayey loam, slightly timbered and luxuriant in grasses. Towards its head, it is
shut in upon both sides by high pine hills; but, in passing on, these mural
confines are exchanged for the prairies, and the creek finally debouches into the
Platte.
An abundance of prelée and rushes afforded fine pasturage to our animals, and
a kindly grove of dry cottonwood gave us requisite fuel for camp-fire.
Before leaving, we were joined by another Indian mounted upon a dark bay
horse, the noblest animal of its kind I remember to have seen among the
mountain tribes. It had been stolen from the Snakes during the past summer, as
its present owner informed us, and he seemed not a little proud of the admiration
we bestowed upon it.
The new comer proved Arketcheta-waka, (Medicine Soldier,) a brother of Bellotunga, the brave referred to on a former occasion. Seating him self by the fire, he
looked dejected and melancholy, and his face bore in dubitable evidence of a
personal encounter with some one.
On enquiring the cause of this, we learned that he had left his father's lodge by
reason of a quarrel he had had with his eldest brother, —the latter having struck
him with a fire-brand and burnt his body in several places during a drunken
spree, —he was now on his way to White river, there to await the suitable time
for revenge, when he should kill his brother.
We told him this would not be right; —it was liquor that had done him the wrong,
and not his brother; —liquor was bad!
He seemed to acknowledge the truth of our suggestions, and asked "why the
pale-faces brought the fire-water to do the red man so much harm?" Our trader
replied, "The whites want robes, and can get them for liquor when nothing else
will do it."
The answer evidently perplexed him, while he sat gazing silently into the fire, with
his arms akimbo upon his knees, and palms supporting his, chin, as if striving to
work out to his own satisfaction this strange problem in morality.
The third day we resumed our course, and, after a drive of six or eight miles,
came upon a large band of buffalo. Here, at our request, the Medicine Soldier
doffed his robe, slung his arrow-case over his naked shoulders, mounted his
horse bow in hand, and started for the chase.
At first he rode slowly, as if reserving the speed of his charger till the proper time.
The buffalo permitted him to approach within a few hundred yards before they
commenced flight Then was a magnificent spectacle.
The affrighted beasts flew over the ground with all the speed that extreme terror
lent to their straightened nerves, and plied their nimble feet with a velocity almost
incredible—but they were no match for the noble steed the Indian bestrode. He
was among them in a trice, and horse, Indian, and buffalo were lost in identity, as
they swept over a snow-clad prairie, in one thick, black mass like the career of a
fierce tornado, — tossing the loose drifts upwards in small particles, that, in their
descent, pictured white clouds falling to the earth, ever and anon enshrouding
the whole band from view.
Now their course is turned and makes directly towards us. They pass, all foaming
with sweat—with lolling tongues and panting breath—but they still seem loath to
abate from the energy of their wild terror.
Soon the Indian and his gallant steed part from them. He has selected the
choicest of the band and pursues her singly. Side by side both cow and horse
keep even pace, while the ready archer pours in his arrows, some of them,
forcing their entire way through the bleeding beast, fall loosely to the ground
upon the opposite side.
At length, spent by the toilsome flight, exhausted by loss of blood, and pierced
through her vitals by the practised marksman that follows her, she halts for fight.
Now, she plunges with mad fury at the horse, — the well-trained steed clears the
force of her charge at a bound. Again, she halts, — the blood spouts from her
nostrils and mouth — she staggers. Again, she musters her expiring energies for
one more desperate onset at her enemy, as if determined, if die she must, not to
die unavenged. Her charge proves futile as the former. A death-sickness comes
over her. Her life is fast ebbing from within her. She reels, — she totters — she
falls, — and breathes her life away upon the blood-dyed snow.
A few moments' delay put us in possession of an ample supply of fresh meat, —
the Indian reserving the robe only as his share. The cow proved a most excellent
selection, and did honor to the judgment of the hunter.
As we travelled on, the snow, which scarcely an hour since had first attracted our
attention, became deeper and deeper, and our progress more tedious and
difficult.
From bare ground and comparatively moderate climate, we were fully inducted to
the region of snow, ice, and winter. The prairie was high and undulating. To our
left an immense wall of secondary rock surmounted a ridge of naked hills, that
described in its course the curve of a rainbow, enclosing upon three sides a large
valley facing the east, — thence, stretching westward and raising higher and
higher, hastened to mingle its heads among the cloud-capped summits and
snows of the neighboring mountains.
From a light coating of loose snow our course soon became obstructed by still
deepening layers, covered with a thick crust, scarcely strong enough to bear our
weight, but quite sufficient to wrench and jar us at every step, and make our
advance threefold tiresome.
The cold was so intense, we were forced to walk to keep from freezing. Our
difficulties thickened the farther we progressed. Night closed in upon us, and we
could no longer distinguish our course. Yet we kept on, in hopes of reaching
some creek or spring where we might await the coming day.
Slowly, onward, —plunge, plunge, at every step; —now prostrate at full length
upon the hard crust, and then again staggering in resistless mimicry of drunken
men.
The chill winds sweeping over the dreary expanse pierced us through at each
whiff, and seemed to penetrate every nerve, and joint, and muscle, as if to
transform our hearts' blood into icicles. But still it was plunge, plunge along;
onward, plunge, fall; but yet onward! There is no stopping place here, —'tis push
on or die!
Thus, travelling for three or four hours, not knowing whither, we came finally to
the leeward of a high hill. The agreeable change produced by the absence of
wind, called forth a hearty response. "Camp, ho," was echoed upon all sides. But
here was no water for ourselves or our animals. We must yet go on. Still we
lingered — loath to leave the favored spot. The Indian, who had been absent for
a brief space, now came up, shouting:
"Mine, washtasta!" (Water, very good!)
"Tarkoo mine?" asked the trader. (What water?)
"Mine-loosa. Tunga warkpollo." (Running-water. A large creek.)
It proved L'eau-qui-court, the stream upon which we had intended to pass the
night.
Pushing on, a few moments brought us to its banks, in a deep valley covered
with snow. A fire was then promptly built from a small quantity of wood we had
the precaution to take with us from Rawhide, and all hands were soon as
comfortably conditioned as circumstances would admit.
A hearty supper served to appease the appetites so keenly sharpened by a
toilsome journey of thirty miles, occupying from sunrise till ten o'clock at night.
This over, each one cleared for himself a place upon the frozen ground, and,
spreading down his bed, quickly forgot his cares and sufferings in the welcome
embrace of sleep.
L'eau-qui-court, or Running-water, heads in a small lake under the base of the
first range of Black Hills, and, following an easternly course, empties into the
Missouri, about one hundred and fifty or two hundred miles above Council Bluff.
It derives its name from the rapidity of its current, which rolls over a pebbly bed
with great velocity.
At this place it is narrow and deep, with steep banks, and not a stick of timber is
to be found on it, above or below, for twenty miles. At the lake where it heads,
there is an abundance of timber; large groves of cottonwood are also found at
some distance below our present camp.
The intermediate country, from Rawhide, is a cold and cheerless expanse almost
at all seasons of the year. From the commencement of fall to the very close of
spring, it is subject to frost and snow; —for what cause, it is hard to conjecture.
Its surface, though quite elevated, is not sufficiently so to make such marked
difference in climate between it and adjoining sections.
The next day proved cloudy; we, however, resumed our course which led over a
rough, tumulous country, covered with snow and darkened by occasional clusters
of pines.
Early in the morning our Indians left us and took a nearer route to the village.
Soon after we became bewildered in the obscurity of the atmosphere, and
travelled till night unconscious whether right or wrong. Finally, coming to a deep
ravine that obstructed further progress, we turned to a neighboring grove of
pines, at the point of an eminence, and made camp. It was a bleak airy place, but
by aid of a huge fire of dry pine we were quite comfortable, despite a heavy fall of
snow during the night.
With the morning our perplexities were renewed. Directly in front lay a broad and
impassable ravine, beyond which a high mountain range arose to view. Should
we go up or down? After much debate we decided upon the latter, and, bearing
northward during the day, struck the head of a stream which subsequently
proved White river.
This stream traces its way through a broad valley, enclosed upon either side by
high pine hills. Its banks are studded with thick groves of cottonwood, elm, ash,
box-elder, and willow, —with nearly all the varieties of fruit-bearing shrubs and
trees indigenous to the mountains. In the item of plums and cherries, it gave
evidence of exuberant fecundity. The bushes, in many instances, yet bore the
dried relics of their burthen, as if to tempt the beholder's taste, —while the tall
grass and rosebuds,13 every where attested the summer-verdure and beauty of
the valley in which they grew.
The snow that had hitherto impeded our progress, now gradually became less as
we advanced down the valley, and soon gave place to bare ground. Game
13
Rosebuds are found in great quantities in many places, throughout the mountains, during the winter, and attain a large
size. They are highly esteemed by many as an article of food, and have not unfrequently been the means of preserving
life in case of extreme hunger and lack of other eatables.
appeared in great numbers, attracted from the adjoining hills to pass the winter in
this inviting locality.
A journey of two days brought us to the site selected for houses, and,
consequently to a halt, for the present.
The place was surrounded by wild and romantic scenery. Directly in front, upon
the opposite side of the creek, arose a perpendicular wall of marl and half formed
sandstone, towering, stratum above stratum, to a height of three or four hundred
feet, and overlooking the valley above and below, — while further on, a steep hillside, covered with tall, straight, and almost branchless pines, burst upon the
view.
Rearward a gradual acclivity led to a high plateau, some two miles broad, coated
with long, tall grass, when a ridge of abrupt pine hills introduced the more distant
mountains, with their rugged sides and frowning summits, —and, higher up, an
immense pile of earthy limestone, surmounting a wing of hills as it approached
the river, presented a medley of curious and fantastic shapes, —objects alike of
amusement and wonder.
One of the latter, denominated the "Devil's Tea-pot," exhibited externally an
almost perfect facsimile of that kind of vessel. It was of gigantic proportions, —
being one hundred feet high, and, occupying a conspicuous position, may be
seen for a distance of many miles.
The Indians from a near village, immediately upon our arrival, came flocking
around for the threefold purpose of begging, trading and stealing; and, from this
forward, we rarely experienced an interval free from their annoyance.
Prompt arrangements were here commenced for building a store room and
trading house; —but meanwhile, we were forced to keep strict guard both night
and day.
Two braves were secured to "act soldier," and assist in keeping the thieving
propensities of their people in check. Yet, notwithstanding the united vigilance of
all hands, the latter would frequently perpetrate their petit larcenies under our
very eyes, without being detected in the act, — so adroit were they at the
business. An instance of this kind happening to myself is perhaps worth relating.
Previously to the erection of houses, we were necessitated to sleep in the open
air. Wearied by the lateness of the hour, one night I spread down my couch by
the camp-fire, with the intention of retiring. The weather being very cold, I had
scarcely turned to warm myself, when a backward glance revealed the sudden
disappearance of my sleeping appendages — robes blankets and all!
Informing the trader of my mishap, and catching a glimpse of the thief as he
dodged past a knot of Indians at the further extremity of the camp, gun in hand, I
started after the nimble lark; but the thick bushes and darkness soon shut him
from view and left me in fruitless pursuit.
At length, relinquishing the hope of ever regaining the stolen articles, and vexed
at the impious savage, who, instead of obeying the Scripture injunction of "take
up thy bed and walk," had snatched MY bed and RUN! I returned to camp. Here I
was shown a robe, by the trader, that had been brought in scarcely a minute
before and offered in barter for liquor; —it was one of the two I had lost.
The bearer was now promptly charged as being accessory to the theft. This he
stoutly denied, alleging that the robe had been given him by an. other Indian for
the purpose he had offered it.
Upon this the affair was referred to our soldiers, who, after much parleying and
no little threatening, succeeded in causing him to return the missing articles. The
fellow then demanded of me a cup of liquor as pay for bringing them back.
Mustering to my aid a few words of Sioux, I replied: "Mea warche yau wechacha
ceicha, opata-ne ha warktash-ne coga! —I neither like bad men, nor will I pay for
doing bad."
Marto-nazher, (Standing Bear,) one of our soldiers, on hearing my answer, arose
and addressed the crowd in an earnest and impressive manner. He was grieved
on account of the many depredations continually committed by his people upon
the property of the whites. It is wrong—very wrong, said he, to conduct in this
manner — if such wickedness is allowed, the whites will abandon the country.
Whites do not steal from us. Something must be done — an example must be
had — the perpetrators of these outrages must be punished.
"You, Schena-sarpah," he continued, throwing his piercing glance full upon the
chop-fallen culprit, who hung his head for shame at being caught in a manner so
little to his credit, "Aye, you Scena-sarpah do carry a bow and arrows; you call
yourself a brave; and yet you steal from our friends, the pale-faces!
"Do brave men steal from their friends? No! Schena-sarpah should alone steal
from his enemies, if he be a brave man and a soldier.
"Who are they that steal from their friends? Squaws and children, as Schenasarpah well knows. Then he is no better than they! Why should he carry a bow?
Why go to war, or follow the chase? Squaws and children do neither. None but
brave men go to war — none but they should follow the chase.
"Schena-sarpa needs no bow. Let him go to his lodge. There let him make robes
and moccasins for braves, and take care of children with squaws, — for such
should be his occupation, and only such should be his companions!"
So saying, he approached the unresisting thief, and, taking from him his bow,
arrows, and panther-skin quiver, resumed his seat. Then, breaking the arrows
and shooting them away, one by one, among the trees, he snapped the bow
across his knee and threw it into the fire. The bright flame from the burning bow
had barely died away, when the quiver was consigned to the same late. As the
last fragments of the effeminate's weapons mouldered to ashes, a smile of
satisfaction played upon the countenance of the Standing Bear, at the thought of
having avenged the wrongs of the white man.
And truly, this was an infliction of summary punishment. The amount of property
destroyed exceeded the value of a horse, and, in the estimation of an Indian,
constitutes a man's chief wealth. The offender was thus not only left disarmed by
the operation, but made poor, and reduced to a level with the squaws and
children to whom he was set apart. He bemoaned his loss most piteously, and
started for his lodge, bellowing like a motherless calf.
Another instance of theft occurred soon after, almost as remarkable. A robe was
stolen from off one of our party, while he was asleep, and bartered for whiskey,
without his knowing it!
Our Indian soldiers were of great service in conducting the trade. If any difficulty
occurred, they were always at hand to assist in its adjustment, and preserve
order and quiet so far as lay in their power. If any visitor became troublesome,
they at once ordered him to his lodge, and enforced their commands in case of
resistance.
Every trader is necessitated to employ one or more braves to assist him in his
business at the villages. An Indian considers it a great honor thus to receive the
confidence of a white man and "act soldier" for him, as he denominates it. Some
of them have not unfrequently gone so far as to kill those of their people who
proved guilty of misusing the traders by whom they were employed.
They exercise a kind of supervisory office in the management of affairs which
could not well be dispensed with, — and very often have the lives of traders been
preserved by the judgment and discretion of these men.
Dec. 25th. Christmas finds us in our new residence, which, with the exception of
a chimney; is now completed.
This great annual festival is observed with all the exhilarating hilarity and good
cheer that circumstances will allow. Several little extras for the occasion have
been procured from the Indians, which prove quite wholesome and pleasanttasted. One of these, called washena, consists of dried meat pulverized and
mixed with marrow; another is a preparation of cherries, preserved when first
picked by pounding and sun-drying them, (they are served by mixing them with
bouillie, or the liquor of fresh-boiled meat, thus giving to it an agreeable winish
taste;) a third is marrow-fat, an article in many respects superior to butter; and,
lastly, we obtained a kind of flour made from the pomme blanc, (white apple,)
answering very well as a substitute for that of grain.
The above assortment, with a small supply of sugar and coffee, as well as
several other dainties variously prepared, affords an excellent dinner, — and,
though different in kind, by no means inferior in quality to the generality of
dinners for which the day is noted in more civilized communities.
The day following our turbulent neighbors were augmented in number by the
accession of another village of Brulés, and Marto-cogershne, of whom I have
spoken upon a former occasion, became with his family our constant annoyance.
Visiting us at one time, squaws and all — as was his daily custom — to beg
liquor, (which, some way or other, he always obtained,) the brother of our
tormentor demanded a quantity of that article to take with him to his lodge. This,
after many sharp words, was offered; but, having no vessel for its conveyance,
he extended his demands to a kettle, — which, of course, was refused;
whereupon he threatened vengeance unless both were forthcoming upon the
mocosco,14 (prairie,) and required still farther the gift of a pair of moccasins
Our trader replied, "The liquor is for you, and here are the moccasins, (pulling off
his own and passing them to him,) but the kettle you cannot have."
The affair thus ended for the present, and the modest beggar retired to his lodge.
The next morning, however, two of our horses were found pierced with arrows,
and so badly, that they died soon after.
At another time, Marto-cogershne became so enraged at being refused a whole
keg of liquor "on the prairie," he rushed upon the trader with his butcher-knife to
kill him. What would have been the result, it is hard to tell, had I not stayed the
descending weapon by seizing the fellow's arm. Here our soldiers interfered and
put him out of the house, —closing the door upon him. The exasperated savage
then commenced shooting upon us through the door; —two Indian boys passing
in the interval also furnished marks for his gun, and not long subsequently a mule
and an ox belonging to us fell to appease his insulted dignity.
However, the chef d'ouvre of his rascality was exhibited in stealing our whole
cavallard,15 consisting of ten head of horses and mules, which he drove into the
mountains. We were compelled to give a quantity of liquor and ammunition, two
blankets, and several other articles before we could secure their return.
From the movement of things, he was evidently instigated by the American Fur
Company traders to do us all the mischief in his power. Certain it is, he was their
regular "soldier," and received from them numerous presents in consideration of
his good conduct.
14
This expression implies the bestowment of anything as a free gift. It is also used to denote a random way of speaking
with regard to truth.
15
This is a mountain phrase of Spanish origin, (cavellardo,) and means a band of horses or mules.
The employees of this company are frequently guilty of such disgraceful conduct.
In connection with this conclusion I might cite instance upon instance, and string
out a volume of proof, were it necessary.
Soon after Christmas we commenced erecting our chimney. The materials for it
were procured from an adjoining bank. While engaged in quarrying them, the
operator came to a crevice filled with a strange fleshy substance, coiled together
like the folds of a huge rope. "Hallo!" cried he, with astonishment, "here's the
Devil, himself!"
The extraordinary announcement brought all hands to the spot to get a peep at "
Old Nick," and the Indians, also, witnessing —the unusual commotion, came
hurrying up to learn its cause.
The result proved, that, if not the Devil, it was his great prototype, —it was that
"Old Serpent," with all his progeny.
By means of a stick, thirty-six large snakes were exposed to view, some of them
six feet in length. They were in a torpid state, the result of the severe cold of
winter.
Having drawn them out, one by one, it was proposed to treat them to a warm
bath. Accordingly, after placing them in a hole for the purpose, a kettle of
scalding water was thrown upon them. The vivifying effects of this unwonted
application restored them to a sudden animation, when, wriggling and twisting for
a few moments in all the contortions of agony, they at last tacitly curled up and
expired.
The Indians were much shocked on seeing this, and expressed their
astonishment at our reckless presumption by their deeply accented "tula," —
turning away from the spot with evident emotions of terror.
On inquiring the cause, I learned in answer, that the various Indian tribes in the
vicinity of the mountains are accustomed to regard the snake with a kind of
superstitious veneration, and consider the act of killing it a sure harbinger of
calamity. In the observance of this singular notion, they are scrupulously exact;
—but, in despite of repeated inquiries, I have been unable to obtain the reasons
upon which the whim is based.
These tribes cherish many religious tenets, rites, and customs, —some general
and others peculiar only to individuals.
An Indian will never pronounce the name of the Big Medicine, or Great Spirit,
other than in a reverential manner, nor upon trivial occasions.
This being is considered the Great Superintendent of all things, whose power
sustains the universe, —causing day and night with the varying seasons, —
making the grass to grow, the water to run, and the rains to fall, for the good of
man and beast.
Some imagine He lives in the sun; others, in the air; others, in the ground; and
others in the immensity of His works.
The animal or thing possessed of wonderful or extraordinary powers, such as
their ignorance ascribes to be the attributes of the Supreme Being, they look
upon as endowed with a greater or less share of His presence, and venerate it
accordingly. Thus, the sun, fire, lightning, thunder, fountains of peculiar medicinal
qualities, extraordinary localities, and various other things are alike objects of
religious regard.
Although their theological sentiments are generally the same, the manner of
showing their respect for this Overruling Providence differs with different tribes,
families, and even persons. For instance, —some tribes shave their heads in
token of their submission to Him. Others mark themselves for His own by some
peculiar manner of cutting their ears for the reception of ornaments; —while
others burn their thighs, tattoo their breasts, scar their arms, or flatten the heads
of infants, for a like purpose.
The instrument, with which such ceremonies are performed, is invariably thrown
away. In case of cutting the ears of an infant, the gift bestowed upon the operator
is regarded as indicative of its success during life; parents have been known to
give as high as ten horses on like occasions.
Some make indelible marks of a blue color upon their chins and foreheads, —or
the figures of lizards, snakes, arrows, or other objects upon their arms.
Some show their reverence in the peculiar manner of receiving the pipe and
passing it to another; —others by certain ceremonies before smoking, — thus,
pointing the pipe-stem to the zenith, then towards the ground, then horizontally
upon either side, as if saying, "Oh thou, whose habitation is immensity, accept
this as the willing tribute of homage from thy child."
They will never allow a bone of any kind to be broken within their lodges, and
express great consternation and alarm at such an occurrence. Some will not
permit a stick of wood to be struck with a knife or other edged tool while burning,
and others exhibit their devotion by some peculiarity in the structure of their
lodges, or the mode of placing their medicine-bags, the length and shape of their
arrows, their fashion of hairdressing, and various minutia of like character.
Others again will never eat unless they bestow the first mouthful as an offering to
the prairie, —believing that, as the prairie affords water, grass, and game, for the
good of the red man, it is the fullest embodiment of the Essence of Good;
therefore, in the observance of this practice, they not only acknowledge their faith
in the existence of the Great Spirit, but set apart the first of their substance as
test of their piety.
Their ideas of the existence of a principle, or being, who is the author and
prompter of evil, are crude and indefinite.
They are ready to acknowledge its reality, but seem to consider its person more
manifest in man himself than any other creature or thing.
Their enemies they esteem as the more special incarnation of this principle, and
next to them they regard a worthless, mean, and cowardly individual of their own
people. They also look upon creatures of an injurious and hurtful nature, as the
greater or less impersonation of evil.
Their notions of right and wrong are equally simple.
It is right to be brave, to do good to friends, to relieve the needy, to feed the
hungry, and to worship the Great Spirit, —these are acts of general morality.
There are various other duties taught by their code relative to intercourse with
each other, —to children and parents, husbands and wives deference to age,
chastity etc., the performance of which is essential to virtue.
The line of demarkation between virtue and vice is yet more simple and
comprehensive; —every thing derelict of right is wrong.
I shall recur to several points, connected with the foregoing subjects, in another
place.
CHAPTER IX.
Dangers connected with the liquor trade. Difficulty with Bull Eagle. Scenes of
bloodshed and horror. Cheating in the fur trade. How the red man becomes
tutored in vice. A chief's daughter offered in exchange for liquor. Indian mode of
courtship and marriage. Squaws an article of traffic. Divorce. Plurality of wives.
THE difficulty and danger, not to say crime and bloodshed, connected with the
illicit trade in alcohol, as conducted among our western Indians, is great and
imminent. To illustrate this point, I need only to place before the reader a
summary of facts which occurred, many of them under my own observation,
during the winter of 1842.
Soon after our arrival at White river a man was sent to a neighboring village with
a keg of diluted alcohol, for the purpose of barter. The Indians, feeling more
disposed to drink than pay for it, demanded the keg as a gift "on the prairie." This
was refused. They threatened —a fight ensued, (the soldiers and trader
defending the keg and the Indians trying to take it.) Weapons were used, and the
result was, both soldiers and trader were beaten off, —the latter, after being
dragged through the lodgefire three or four times, narrowly escaped with his life.
A party of Indians under the excitement of strong drink, attacked and took a
trading house of the American Fur Company, near by, —robbing it of both liquor
and goods.
Two parties in the Fur Company's employ, from different posts, met at a
neighboring village, — one having goods and the other alcohol. The Indians, as
usual, got drunk, and commenced a fight among themselves; because the
goods-trader happened to be in the lodge of one of the weaker party, they
attacked him. He was compelled to flee, and barely escaped with his life through
the friendly interference of the squaws. His goods were all stolen; —while one of
the Indians who defended him was brutally murdered, and several others
wounded.
Not long afterwards, our trader was shot at, three or four times, while engaged in
this dangerous traffic, and one of his soldiers severely wounded. About the same
time, the trader of another company received a deep stab, while dealing out the
vile trash, and would have been killed but for the energetic efforts of his soldiers.
Previously to the above, the Indians seized upon a trader and compelled him to
stand over a hot fire until he was nearly roasted alive, —meanwhile, helping
themselves to his stock in hand.
Soon after, two warriors came to trade for a blanket at our post, —one of whom
was drunk. While being waited upon, the latter drew his knife and was in the very
act of stabbing the unsuspecting clerk, as I caught his wrist and arrested the
blow.
At another time, as our trader was standing surrounded by us all, he was shot at
by a drunken Indian, who, by the merest accident, missed his object.
Again, one night a party of drunken Indians undertook to fire the house in order
to consume us alive, but were providentially prevented, owing to its being
constructed of green pine logs.
The most dangerous time I experienced during the winter was near the close of
it. An Indian employed as our soldier, became crazed upon the drugged liquor of
the American Fur Company, and made his appearance before us in a high state
of excitement. This fellow had been denominated by his people the Bull Eagle,
(Tahtunga-mobellu,) and was a chief, highly esteemed as a medicine-man, and
regarded as the greatest brave in the Sioux nation. He was a tall, well-made,
noble-looking person —and, —such eyes! I never saw the like planted beneath
the brows of any other mortal. They glared like lightning, and, as they fell upon
the individual to whom directed, seemed to penetrate the very soul and read the
embryo thoughts of his heart.
Through the misrepresentations of those in the interest of the Fur Company, he
fancied himself misused by our trader, and came determined on revenge. Arms
in hand and stripped for the contest, accompanied by his wife and two or three
friends, he confronted us, —his strange appearance told for what. In the fury of
passion his every look gave evidence of the raging demon within.
Here, lest he should be misunderstood, he premised by a full statement of his
grievances. They were many, but the chief of them was, that our trader had
employed another to "act soldier" in his stead, while he was too drunk to perform
the duties of that appointment. "I have been dressed16 as a soldier," said he, "to
be laughed at, and now Peazeezeet17 must die!"
The room was full of Indians, and one of them, an old man, exclaimed "When
Peazeezee dies, let me go under18, —I must live no longer!"
"Is this your love for the pale-face?" returned the infuriated chieftain. Then die
you first!"
Upon this, seizing the defenceless old man, he drew his knife and made a heartthrust. The intended victim, however, grasped the descending blade in his bare
hand and arrested its course — but his fingers were nearly severed in so doing.
Here the wife of Bull Eagle rushed up to her husband and seized him by both
16
Previously, he had been presented with a citizen's dress to secure him for the company's interest.
17
Yellow-hair. The Indian name for our trader.
18
This term implies death, or the act of dying.
arms, while others interfered, and the scene of conflict was removed from the
apartment to the space in front.
Now was a general fight. The women and children, crying for terror, ran about in
the utmost confusion and dismay, —while raving combatants yelled and
whooped, as knives, clubs, and tomahawks were busily dealing wounds and
scattering blood.
Soon after, the parties retired to their village, and the melee ended with only six
wounded.
In a brief interval the Bull Eagle again returned, accompanied by his wife, —the
latter earnestly endeavoring to dissuade him from his purpose.
A shot was his first salute, on entering the door, which a timely thrust from the
squaw averted from its object. The kind-hearted creature then grasped the bow.
Relinquishing it in her hands, the madman made a pass at the trader with his
tomahawk, —this blow was dodged, and the heroine, rushing between the two,
prevented its repetition. Dropping his tomahawk, he then fell upon the object of
his hatred, butcher-knife in hand.
But here he found himself in the firm grasp of several friendly Indians, by whom
he was borne from the room.
This state of affairs was the signal for another engagement between Bull Eagle,
at the head of his partizans, and the friends of the whites, more desperate and
bloody than the former. With great difficulty we retained our arms from the
forcible grasp of the contending factions. This, to us, was a moment fraught with
extreme peril — not knowing friend from foe, and instantly apprehensive of the
knives and arrows of the avengeful throng. It was, indeed, a moment when the
agony of suspense quivered with thrilling intensity upon every nerve, and
vibrated in every sinew. To fight, would have been a relief. But, whom should we
fight? It might have been our best friends — for who could discriminate? The
death of one connected with either party, at our hands, would have proved the
signal for our instant slaughter. Both would have united to exterminate us, —and,
beset as we were, upon all sides, prudence dictated a strict neutrality.
Sometimes fifteen or twenty would be struggling for our arms at once, a strong
temptation, as the reader may rest assured, for us to use them in self-defence.
Meanwhile the conflict continued with unabated fury. Several attempts were
made upon the life of Bull Eagle, but without success. Two were killed and others
wounded, when a final stop was put to the further effusion of blood by the
withdrawal of the chieftains to his lodge.
In about an hour subsequent, he returned for the second time, —but reason had
now resumed her sway, and he came to apologize for his bad conduct. Calling
our trader his "very good, his best friend," he cried for grief that he had attempted
to kill him. He averred that liquor had made him a fool, and said he should never
cease to regret the great wickedness he had thought of doing to his "best friend."
Ever after this affair, he remained our steadfast friend, and presented our trader
with six superfine robes, in evidence of the sincerity of his repentance.
The foregoing results of this infamous traffic, are only a few of the many
instances of like nature I might cite, in proof of its imminent danger to those
engaged in its prosecution; —but this is not the darkest part of the picture. There
are yet scenes in reserve, more bloody and dreadful than those above recited,
though not, perhaps, quite as perilous to the whites themselves. They all
occurred in the winter of 1842, during the brief period of two months, and
resulted immediately from the sale of liquor.
I shall not enter into details, but content myself by laying before the reader a
mere synopsis of facts.
In November, the American Fur Company, from Fort John, sent a quantity of their
drugged liquor to an Indian village, on Chugwater, as a gift, for the purpose of
preventing the sale of that article by their competitors in trade. The consequence
was, the poor creatures all got drunk, and a fight ensued, which ended in the
death of two head chiefs, Bull Bear and Yellow Lodge, and six of their friends, —
besides the wounding of fourteen others, who took part in the affray.
Soon after, an affair occurred from the same cause, resulting in the death of
three.
About the same time, another of like nature took place in the Chyenne village,
and three more were killed.
Several were also killed, in the interval, in the vicinity of the Chyenne and
Missouri rivers, by their friends and companions, while under the maddening
influence of intoxicating drink, —the precise number is not known.
The very last trade at the close of the season, produced its usual deeds of
bloodshed and murder. Two Indians were killed, and the person who sold to
them the vile article narrowly escaped with his life.
I might go on still further with the sickening sketch; but, as enough has already
been said to shock the sensibilities of the reader, in endeavoring to afford him
some idea of the enormities and untold horrors connected with this criminal
traffic, I must forbear.
The liquor used in this business, is generally third or fourth proof whiskey, which,
after being diluted by a mixture of three parts water, is sold to the Indians at the
exorbitant rate of three cups per robe, —the cups usually holding about three
gills each.
But, notwithstanding the above unconscionable price, a large share of the profits
result from the ingenious roguery of those conducting the trade.
Sometimes the measuring-cup is not more than half full;—then, again the act of
measuring is little other than mere feint, (the purchaser receiving not one fourth
the quantity paid for.)
When he becomes so intoxicated as to be unable to distinguish the difference
between water and liquor, (a thing not rare,) the former is passed off upon him as
the genuine article.
Another mode of cheating is, by holding the cup in such a manner that the two
front fingers occupy a place upon the inside, and thus save to the trader nearly a
gill at each filling.
Some have two cups, (one of the usual size, and the other less,) which are so
exchanged as to induce the purchaser to believe he is obtaining a third more
than he actually receives; and others, yet more cunning, fill the measure half full
of tallow and deal out the liquor from off it, —the witless dupe, not thinking to
examine the bottom, supposes he receives the requisite quantity.
No wonder the Indian, with such examples before him, learns to hate the white
man, and despise and abhor his boasted civilization. No wonder he looks with an
eye of suspicion, alike upon his religion and his learning, and revolts at the
thought of either, as the ingenious devices of scientific roguery. He is taught all
the white man's vices before he learns any of his virtues. The emissaries of
Satan, by their untiring efforts, effectually stop his ears, blind his eyes, and
harden his heart, ere yet the heralds of the Gospel set foot upon his soil, to tell
him of the blessings of Christianity, and the way to happiness and to heaven.
If the Indian is bad, it is because the white man has made him so.
Uncontaminated by intercourse with the offscourings of civilization, who come to
cheat and despoil him of his property, and deprive him of his comforts, you find
him quite a different being. You find him brave, generous, and hospitable, as well
as possessed of many exemplary moral qualities. If he is a savage, he might, in
many respects, prove a safe and worthy teacher to those who pride themselves
upon a more enlightened education.
He has a heart instinctive of more genuine good feeling than his white neighbor
—a soul of more firm integrity—a spirit of more unyielding independence. Place
the white man in his condition, divested of all the restraints of law, and
unacquainted with the learning and arts of civilized life —surrounded by all the
associations of the savage state —and the Indian, by comparison, will then
exhibit, in a more striking light, that innate superiority he in reality possesses.
No: The Indian should not be despised. He holds weighty claims upon our pity,
our compassion, and our respect, but never should he be despised.
Old Bull Tail, of whom I had occasion to speak in a former chapter having
forgotten the wholesome sentiments he advanced at the time referred to, took it
into his head to have a spree. But, as he was not possessed of the means to
obtain the wherewith, he adopted a somewhat novel substitute.
He had an only daughter, —and she was handsome—the pride of her family and
the boast of her village. She was lovely, and all the high qualities of a princess
were exhibited in her deportment. But, Bull Tail must drink; why not give his
daughter to the Yellow-hair and receive from him a keg of liquor as a marriage
present?
This thought was acted out, and one morning the old chief came to us, followed
by his daughter, who, aware of her father's designs, gave vent to her grief in a
flood of tears.
As he entered the door, our trader addressed him:
Trader. Bull Tail is welcome to the lodge of the Long-knife; —but, why is his
daughter, the pride of his heart, bathed in tears? It pains me that one so beautiful
should weep.
Bull Tail. Chintzille is a foolish girl. Her father loves her, and therefore she cries.
Trader. The contrary should prove a greater cause for grief!
Bull Tail. The Yellow-hair speaks well, and truth only falls from his lips.
Trader. How, then, can she sorrow? Bid her speak and tell me, that I may
whisper in her ear words of comfort.
Bull Tail. Nay, pale-face; but I will tell thee. Bull Tail loves his daughter much —
very much; he loves the Yellow-hair much! —he loves them both, very much. The
Great Spirit has put the thought into his mind that both might be alike his
children; then would his heart leap for joy at the twice-spoken name of father!
Trader. What do I hear? I know not the meaning of thy words.
Bull Tail. Sure, pale-face, thou art slow to understand! Bull Tail would give his
daughter to the Yellow-hair, —for who like him is so worthy to take her to his
lodge? Bull Tail has for a long time called the pale face his brother, and now he
would claim the Yellow-hair as his son. Loves he not Chintzille?
Trader. Were I to deny my joy at the words of Bull Tail, my tongue would lie! The
Yellow-hair has no wife, and who, like the lovely Chintzille, is so worthy that he
should take her to his bosom? How could he ever show his gratitude to her noble
father!
Bull Tail. The gift is free, and Bull Tail will be honored in its acceptance, —his
friends will all be glad with him. But, that they may bless the Yellow-hair, let him
fill up the hollow-wood19 with fire-water, and Bull Tail will take it to his lodge; —
then the maiden shall be thine.
Trader. But, Chintzille grieves, —she loves not the Yellow-hair!
Bull Tail. Chintzille is foolish. Let the Yellow-hair measure the fire-water and she
shall be thine!
Trader. Nay, but the Yellow-hair may not do this. Chintzille should never be the
wife of him she loves not!
The old man continued to plead for some time, in order to bring to a successful
issue the negotiation by which he hoped to "wet his whistle" and gain a son-inlaw, —but all to no purpose. Our trader could not be persuaded to form an
alliance so entangling upon any such terms, and the chieftain left with all the
lineaments of disappointment and chagrin depicted upon his countenance.
The mode of marriage prevalent among the mountain and prairie tribes would
seem rather strange and somewhat unfair to the better informed of civilized
communities.
The lady has little to say or do in the business. When an Indian takes it into his
head to get married and meets with the squaw suiting his fancy, he wastes no
time in useless courtship, but hastens to her father and demands of him to know
how much he loves his daughter and what gift of horses will make his heart
rejoice in a son-in-law?
The father, after consulting with his daughter and her mother, states the terms. If
these prove agreeable to the suitor, he immediately accepts them, and the twain
"become one flesh" without further ceremony.
In case the woman has no father, her eldest brother fills his place, —and if she
have neither father nor brother, her next nearest relative assumes the
responsibility of bestowing her in marriage.
If she be the eldest daughter, and has unmarried sisters, the bridegroom
becomes equally entitled to them, and is looked upon as their common husband.
The first year succeeding this new relation, the bride's family consider all the
horses and other valuables of the new-made husband as their own; the second
year he is permitted to retain his personal property for the use of himself and
wife; —but the third year he enjoys an equal right with his relatives to everything
in their possession.
19
keg
The decision of parents in the bestowment of a daughter in marriage is generally
controlled by the largeness of the amount offered; thus showing that civilized life
is not the only condition in which individuals are sometimes governed by sordid
motives in pronouncing upon questions of such vital importance to the welfare of
others.
The female is the only party upon whom the marriage contract is considered
binding.
The man may sunder it at any time suiting his convenience or caprice. He has
the power, even, to dispose of his wife to another, or, at a mere word, to absolve
himself from all obligation to her. In case of the latter, the discarded one returns
to her father's lodge, —ready again to test the realities of this uncertain
relationship, whenever an opportunity presents itself meeting with the approval of
those who assume to make barter of her affections and person.
A woman, to be happy in this state of society, should never indulge in that
fancied passion, pictured in such glowing colors by crack-brained poets and
novel-writers, called love; —or, if she has the assurance to do otherwise, it
should be of that more versatile and accommodating order, so often exhibited in
more refined circles, which may be reclaimed and transferred as interest or
circumstances suggest. Her affections are not at her own disposal, and, to render
life tolerable, she must learn to love only as she is loved, and to love herself
above all others.
Next to horses, women constitute an Indian's chief wealth. This circumstance not
unfrequently results in one individual appropriating to himself six or eight.
The squaw is compelled to dress robes and skins, make moccasins, cure and
take care of meat, attend to the horses, procure fire-wood, and perform sundry
other little drudgeries that an Indian will not do. Through her he becomes
possessed of the means of procuring from the whites such articles as his
necessities or fancy may require. A plurality of wives with him, therefore, is more
a matter of economy than other wise.
CHAPTER X.
Tahtunga-egoniska. High gaming. Weur-sena Warkpollo, a strange story. The
Death Song, a tale of love. Medicine-men. Extraordinary performance of
Tahtunga-mobellu. Wonderful feats of jugglery.
AMONG our daily visitors was Tahtunga-egoniska, a head chief of the Brulé
village.
Years had bleached his locks with their taming frosts and taught him selfgovernment. Well disposed as a man, he never became a participant in those
disgusting scenes of intoxication that almost continually transpired around us. He
was a mere looker on —a moralizer; and, as he witnessed the blameworthy
conduct of his people, an ill-suppressed sigh was frequently audible, and the
inward workings of regret were plainly defined upon his countenance. Melancholy
too had left her traces upon him, and, as he sat day by day in gloomy silence, he
seemed the very impersonation of grief.
Whenever the throng dispersed for a few moments, he would improve the
opportunity for conversation with us; for in the benevolence of his heart he loved
the whites, and was greatly pained at the injuries and injustice it was so often
their lot to endure.
But he had a story of his own to tell; it was a tale of affliction — a stab at the best
feelings of a father's heart! And, by whom? By the very whites he loved! Aye, by
the very men whose business it was to degrade his people and ruin them by the
contaminating effects of an unhallowed intercourse!
Six months had scarcely yet passed since the old chief had been called to mourn
his youthful hope, and the pride and joy of his declining years — his first-born
son! And that son had fallen by the hand of the white man!
Still, the sorrow-stricken father harbored no thought of revenge; he sought
nothing for himself save the locks of that son, that he might hang them within his
lodge, and gaze upon them and weep!
His simple tale was so touching in its nature it served to enlist the deep
sympathies of our hearts. We began to regard him with much deference, and felt
quite at home in his company. He would frequently entertain us with his
anecdotes as occasions suggested, and at such times he invariably proved both
agreeable and communicative.
The history of his own life, too, was far from uninteresting. He was the only one
of the Brulé chiefs, then living, who had signed the first treaty with the whites,
since which he had ever observed its stipulations with scrupulous exactness, and
still carefully retained a silver medal bestowed upon him by the Government
agent at that time.
Some of his stories were garbed with a strange romance, and though they may
appear foreign to truth in many respects, I cannot resist the temptation of
presenting a few of them to the reader.
One day, several Indians had betted largely upon a "game of hand;"20 this called
forth from the old man the following story:
"When a young man I delighted in war, and seldom did a party of our people visit
the enemy that included me not with its number. These scars tell where I stood
when arrows flew thick—hastening to spill the blood of the brave.
"Rarely did we return empty-handed from the foeman's land—without horses to
ride or scalps to dance. Yet, at times we came back like fools, and were
ashamed to appear at the soldiers' feasts.
"One of these times I well recollect, and I will tell of it to my white children, that
they also may remember it.
"We were proceeding against the Crows, and, like experienced warriors, had
sent our spy in advance to look for the enemy. Hurrying on, in momentary
expectation of a conflict, the stout hearts of our braves were appalled by his
return without robe or arms, and scalpless—and with a face suffused in blood.
"This was his story: The enemy, aware of our approach, were awaiting us in
great numbers. Encountering their scouts, he had been robbed and scalped, and
left for dead. In this situation he lay till darkness shut down upon the mountain
and the night-breeze gave him strength to meet us and advise our speedy return.
"Believing the strange tale, we hastened to revisit our lodges, and be laughed at.
"Three moons sped, and we again penetrated the land of the foemen. The
scalpless warrior, far in advance of the main party, once more discharged the
duties of a spy.
"This time a whoop of triumph announced the result of his mission, as he made
his appearance with the scalps of two, waving from his spear.
"He tarried not to relate his adventure, but urged us instantly onward. Following
him, we were led to the enemy; —we fought and were victorious.
20
This is a common game with the mountain Indians. It is commenced by one of the players who encloses a gravel-stone
or a bullet in the curve of his two hands by placing the palms together, then, after sundry tosts and evolutions, suddenly
parting them. If the opposing party is shrewd enough to guess in which hand the stone is obtained, he wins; if not not, he
loses. Large amounts are often wagered upon the result of this play.
"Among the slain was one whose scalp was wanting. Who has done this? asked
the wondering braves. But none answered. Our spy, smiling, at length broke
silence:
" ‘Behind yon hill,' said he, 'a fountain chants melody fit for warriors' ears, —let's
to it, that we may drink.'
"Following his direction, he led to a silvery spring overhung by crags and shaded
by cottonwoods.
“ ‘Drink, warriors,' he exclaimed; when, withdrawing abruptly, he soon returned,
and with the arms and robe which were his own in other days.
“ 'Warriors,' resumed the spy: 'you wondered at my mishap, and amented my
hard lot when last we visited the Crowman's country; —you wondered at the
condition of one among the recent slain, and asked for a reason;—and,
doubtless, you wonder still more that I now stand before you bearing the store of
which I was deprived!—and fain you would know in what manner I obtained the
hair of two.
" 'Three times has the night-queen turned her full face to smile upon the prowess
of Lacota arms, since at this very spot I met an enemy. We rushed towards each
other for the attack. 'Twas then he cried:
" 'Are we not both braves? why should we fight? When our people meet in the
fray, then may we join arms, —till then, a truce.'
" 'To this I replied,
" 'Says Crowman peace? — then, be there peace.'
" 'Thus said, we shook hands and sat down by the fountain.
" 'Willing to amuse the foe, I gathered a pebble and proposed a game of hand.
The challenge was accepted, and we played, —first, arrow against arrow, then
bow against bow, robe against robe, and scalp against scalp.
" 'I was unsuccessful and lost all, —arrow, bow, robe, and scalp. I gave up all,
but with the extorted promise that we should here meet again for another trial of
skill.
" 'True to the word, we did meet again. We played, and this time, the Good Spirit
showed me kindness.
" 'Winning back arrows, bow and robe, I staked them all against the lost scalp.
The game was a close one; but again the Good Spirit favored me, and I won.
" 'Crowman,' said I, 'scalp against scalp.'
" 'The banter was accepted, and the play continued. He lost, and I, with my
winnings, arose to leave.
" 'Warrior,' exclaimed the luckless player, 'meet me in the fight, that we may try
the game of arms.'
" 'Thy words please me,' I answered.' Will the Crowman name the place?'
" 'A valley lies beyond this hill, —there my people await their enemies, and there
let me hope to see you with them.'
" 'To that place I led you. We fought and conquered. My opponent at play was
among the slain. Need I tell you who took his scalp?’ “
The old man seemed to take pleasure in acquainting us with the manners and
customs of his people, and was ever ready to assign a reason for any of them,
whenever such existed. He repeated to us the names of all the streams,
mountains, and prominent localities of the country, and explained the causes of
their several christenings.
Some thirty miles to the westward of us, flowed a large creek, called by the
Indians, " Weur-sena Warkpollo," or Old Woman's creek. This stream is an
affluent of the Chyenne river, and takes its rise at the base of a mountain bearing
the same name.
The mountain is an object of great veneration with the Sioux, who rarely enter
into its neighborhood without bestowing upon it a present of meat. The old man
entertained us with the following explanation of a custom so singular:
"My grandfather told me a tale he had received from the old men before him, and
it is a strange one.
"Many ages past bring us back to the time when the Lacotas lived in a country far
above the sun of winter.21
"Here, then, the Shoshone reared his white lodge, and scoured the prairies in
pursuit of game; while, as yet, the whole country abounded with lakes and ponds
of water, and only the highlands and mountains were left for the buffalo and deer.
"But years passed on, —the mountains and highlands continued to prey upon the
waters, and the creeks and rivers gradually reduced the limits of their
possessions.
21
The north
"Years again fled. The Shoshones, attracted by some better region, far away, or
driven from their homes by the hostile encroachments of other tribes, gave place
to the Scarred-arms.22
"In the course of generations, the Lacotas and the Scarred-arms war red with
each other; they fought with varied success for many years.
"Once a party of the Lacotas penetrated into the heart of the enemy's country; on
their return, they fell into an ambuscade, and only six of them were left to tell the
fate of their companions.
"Hotly pursued by the Scarred-arms, they sought refuge in a mountain. There an
obscure passage led to a recess in the mountain's side, which they entered, and
were pleased to find within it a gravelly floor, and a pure fountain of sweet water.
"Tempted by the conveniences and security of the place, they thought to remain
for a few days that they might recover their strength. A small fire was built
accordingly, and the six braves seated themselves around it recounting to each
other their perils and dangerous exploits, and planning some mode of extrication
from their present difficulties.
"Thus busied, a rustling noise from a dark corner of the apartment startled them,
—but still more were they aroused by the half-disclosed form of a person moving
in the distance. Words gave place to silence, as the warriors, seizing their arms,
awaited the feared assault. But the figure, on advancing nearer, proved that of a
feeble old woman, who addressed the wondering group in their own language.
" 'Children,' said she,' you have been against the Scarred-arms, —you have
fought them, —and of a strong party, you alone survive. I know it all.
" 'You seek in my lodge a refuge from your pursuers, —and the sound of your
voices with the heat of your council-fire has disturbed my rest and awoke me
from a long, long trance.
" 'Your looks enquire my story.
" 'Many ages have gone, (for days, moons, seasons, and ages are painted
before me as they pass,) since the Shoshones, who lived where now live the
Scarred-arms, visited the lodges of the Lacotas, and bade the prairie drink the
blood of slaughtered braves. I was their captive, and with the scalps of the slain I
was taken from the graves of my people, many days travel.
" 'The Shoshone brought me to this country, when yet the buffalo grazed upon
the hills and mountains, only; for the valleys and plains were the home of waters.
22
Chyennes. The name owes its origin to the practice of scarring the left arm crosswise yet adhered to by the males of
that nation.
" 'Living with the Shoshone, I was not happy. I thought of my people, with all
those dear to me, and prayed the Good Spirit that I might again behold them ere
my passage to the death-land.
"I fled, hoping, to reach the home of my birth;—but age had enfeebled me, and
being pursued, I sought refuge in this cave. — Here, having passed a night and a
day in earnest communion with the Big Medicine, —a strange feeling came upon
me. I slumbered, in a dreamy state of consciousness, from then till now.
" 'But your looks again ask, who are the Shoshones?—what became of them?
And from whence were the Scarred-arms?'
" 'The Lacotas will soon know the Shoshones, and bring from their I
lodges many scalps and medicine-dogs. Divided into two tribes, that nation long
since sought home in other lands. One crossed the snowhills towards the sunsetting; —the Lacotas shall visit them, and avenge the blood and wrongs of ages.
The other journeyed far away towards the sun of winter, and now live to the
leftward of the places where the Hispanola builds his earth-lodge.23
" 'Then came the Scarred-arms from a far off country, a land of much snow and
cold. Pleased with the thickly tenanted hunting grounds that here met them, they
stopped for the chase, and, by a possession through successive generations,
have learned to consider these grounds as their own. But they are not theirs.
" 'The Great Spirit gives them to the Lacotas, and they shall inhabit the land of
their daughter's captivity.
"'Why wait ye here? Go and avenge the blood of your comrades upon the
Scarred-arms. They even now light their camp-fire by the stream at the
mountain's base. Fear not, —their scalps are yours! Then return ye to my people,
that ye may come and receive your inheritance.
" 'Haste ye, that I may die. And, oh Warkantunga! inasmuch as thou hast
answered the prayer of thine handmaid, and shown to me the faces of my
people, take me from hence.'
"The awe-struck warriors withdrew. They found the enemy encamped at the foot
of the mountain. They attacked him and were victorious; thirty-five scalps were
the trophies of their success.
"On reaching their homes the strange adventure excited the astonishment of the
whole nation. The Scarred-arms were attacked by our warriors, thus nerved with
23
It is a singular fact, that the Cumanches and Snakes, (Shoshones,) though living - nearly a thousand miles distant from
each other, with hostile tribes intervening, speak precisely the same language, and call themselves by the same general
name They have lost all tradition, however, of having formed one nation, in any previous age.
the hope of triumph, and were eventually driven from the country now possessed
by the Locotas as their own.
"The grateful braves soon sought out the mountain, to do reverence to the
medicine-woman who had told them so many good things. A niche in the
mountain-side, from whence issued a sparkling streamlet, told their place of
refuge; but the cave and the woman alike had disappeared.
'Each successive season do our warriors visit the Shoshones for scalps and
medicine-dogs —and each of our braves, as he passes the Old Woman's
mountain, fails not to bestow upon it his tribute of veneration, or quench his thirst
from he creek that bears her name."
A place on White river—where the stream pours its full force against the base of
a lofty peak, and the powerful attrition of its waters has formed a rocky precipice
of several hundred feet in height—is known as "The Death Song." The singularity
of this name led me to enquire the reasons which prompted its bestowment. Ever
ready to answer questions of this nature, the old chief related the following story:
"Once, on a time, the Oglallas and Burnt-thighs held their encampment upon the
river, opposite to the high point of which my son enquires. While there, a dogsoldier24 of the Burnt-thighs received the offer of six horses from an Oglalla
brave, for his only daughter —a sweet flower— such an one as oft pierces the
warrior's heart with her charms, when the arrows of enemies fall harmless at his
feet. The offer was quickly accepted —for the dog-soldier was poor.
"When Chischille (for that was the name of the fair one) heard she was to
become the wife of the Oglalla, she cried for grief, —and so costinate was her
resistance, the marriage was deferred for several days on that account.
"But, why did Chischille grieve? She had looked upon a handsome warrior of her
own village, and she loved him. She forgot her duty, as a daughter, to love only
at her father's bidding. Her heart had been playing truant and had lost itself in the
labyrinths of girlish fancy. Bitter were the fruits of that presumption.
"Chischille, in the interval, contrived to meet the one of her choice, and the two
fled towards a distant village, there to live in the undisturbed enjoyment of their
youthful loves.
"But, alas, for them! They were pursued, and overtaken. The life of the young
warrior atoned for his temerity, —while Chischille was cruelly beaten and brought
back to her father's lodge.
24
This is the title of those selected to superintend the civil affairs of a village.
"The Oglalla had already paid the purchase price, and, ere the morrow's sunset,
was to receive his fair prize at the hand of the dog-soldier.
"Chischille, arising with the dawn, fresh-plaited her hair, and arraying herself in
her proudest attire, left the lodge. No one thought strange at seeing her thus gaily
dressed for her wedding day, and, as she tripped along, many a warrior's heart
beat high and loud at the thought that a creature so lovely was to become the
bride of another.
"Directing her course to the river, she crossed it and ascended the high peak
upon the opposite side. There, seating herself upon the utmost verge of the
precipice, she gazed calmly from its dizzy height.
"In her lofty station, with her raven locks streaming in the winds, and the
matchless beauty of her person so enchantingly exposed to view she seemed
more like a being of the Spirit-Land than aught human. The sweetest prairieflower was ne'er halt' so lovely.
"Her strange attitude arrested the eyes of all.
" 'Why sits she there? —she will fall and be dashed to pieces!' was the general
cry.' But listen—she sings!'
" 'Why should I stay, —he is gone. Light of my eyes, —joy of my soul, —show me
thy dwelling!— 'Tis not here, —'tis far away in the Spirit Land. Thither he is gone.
Why should I stay? Let me go!'
" 'Hear you that?' said one.' She sings her death song. She will throw herself
from the cliff!'
"At this, a dozen warriors, headed by him who claimed her hand, started to
rescue the sweet singer from intended self-destruction.
"Again she chants:
" 'Spirit of Death, set me free! Dreary is earth. Joyless is time. Heart, thou art
desolate! Wed thee another? Nay. Death is thy husband! Farewell, oh sun! Vain
is your light. Farewell, oh earth! Vain are your plains, your flowers, your grassy
dales, your purling streams, and shady groves! I loved you once, —but now no
longer love! Tasteless are your sweets, —cheerless your pleasures! Thee I woo,
kind Death! Wahuspa calls me hence. In life we were one. We'll bask together in
the Spirit Land. Who shall sunder there? Short is my pass to thee. Wahuspa, I
come!'
"Upon this she threw herself forward, as the warriors grasped at her; but, leaving
her robe in their hands, she plunged headlong and was dashed to pieces among
the rocks below!25
"E'er since, the young warrior sighs as he beholds this peak, and thinks of the
maiden's death song.
"Conversing upon the subject of medicine-men, he was asked, why those
individuals are so highly esteemed by his people? To this he replied:
"These men are regarded as the peculiar favorites of the Great Spirit, to whom is
imparted a more than ordinary share of His power and wisdom. We respect
them, therefore, in proportion to the abilities they receive, even as we reverence
the Great Spirit.”
Here the question was proposed, how are their abilities above those of others?
"The Yellow-hair counts as his soldier Tahtunga-mobellu, — man of strong
medicine. To him the Great Spirit has imparted the power of healing, by imbibing,
at pleasure, the diseases of the sick, and discharging them from his eyes and
nose in the form of live snakes.26
"On a time, years past, our young men went to the Pawnees and came back
crying; for sixteen slain of their number were left to grace an enemy's triumph.
"It was winter, and the moans of men and maidens mingled with the howling
winds. Sorrow beclouded every brow, and brave looked upon brave as if to
enquire,' Who shall wipe out this disgrace?' Then it was a medicine-chief stood
up, and his words were:
" 'Be it for me to consult the Good Spirit.'
"So saying, he entered his lodge alone, nor suffered any to come near during the
long fast that followed. Darkness had closed four times upon the prairie, and the
sun again hastened to hide behind the mountain peaks, when, calling the young
men to him, the medicine-man said:
" 'Fetch me now meat and water, with a new robe, and bid my people come near,
that they may know the words that I would speak.'
"The obedient braves made haste and did as bidden. Folding the robe, he sat
upon it and partook of the refreshments placed before him. After eating he arose,
25
A tale which went the rounds of the public prints, several years since, entitled the "Maiden's Leap," affords a seeming
coincidence in the mode of suicide; but, by comparing the two, the reader will observe a broad dissimilarity of detail. In
penning the above I was guided solely by the leading incidents as related in my hearing.
26
Tahttinga-mobellu receives the averment of all his villagers in proof of this strange feat.
and six large snakes, crawling from the robe one after another, sprang to his
shoulder, and, whispering in his ear, vanished from sight. The last snake had just
told his message when the chief began:
" 'The Good Spirit wills it, that we remove from hence. Three moons being dead,
let three hundred warriors return, and their hearts shall be made glad with
medicine-dogs and the scalps of enemies.'
"The village left, and, at the time appointed, the warriors returned. They met the
enemy, —fought, and were victorious. Sixty-three scalps and one hundred
medicine-dogs were the fruits of their success."
Before dismissing the subject, many other particulars were cited in proof of the
extraordinary abilities of different medicine-men, but the above being the most
remarkable, I have thought proper to pass over the remainder in silence.
NOTE.— An account, still more wonderful than either of the foregoing, was
subsequently narrated in my hearing, while among the Arapaho Indians; and,
without vouching for the truth of all its particulars, I am unwilling to withhold it
from the reader.
The performance alluded to is said to have occurred, some three years since, in
the presence of the whole Arapaho village, incredible as it may seem. The actor
was a Riccaree by nation, and is well known to the mountain traders.
In the centre of a large circle of men, women, and children, stood the subject of
the appended sketch, stripped to the waist, as the gunner's mark. A shot
perforated his body with a bullet, which entered at the chest and emerged from
the opposite side. He instantly fell, and the blood flowing in streams dyed the
grass where he lay, and everything seemed to prefigure the reality of death.
While in this condition, his wife approached and besprinkled his face with water;
soon after which he arose, as from a slumber —the blood still pouring from him.
Beplastering his wound with mud before and behind, the blood ceased to flow,
when he commenced yawning and stretching; in a few minutes the plaster was
removed by a pass of the hand, and neither blood, nor wound, nor the sign of a
scratch or scar appeared! There stood the self-restored medicine-man, before
the wondering throng, alive and well, and in all the pride of his strength!
He then brought his naked son into the ring, a lad of some eight years, and,
standing at a distance of several yards, bow in hand, he pierced him through and
through, from diaphragm to vertebra, at three successive shots.
The boy fell dead, to every appearance, and the thick blood freely coursed from
his wounds. The performer then clasped the body in his arms and bore it around
the ring for the inspection of all, three times in succession. Upon this he breathed
into his mouth and nostrils, and, after suffusing his face with water and covering
his wounds with a mud plaster, he commenced brief manipulations upon his
stomach, which soon ended in a complete recovery, nor left a single trace of
injury about him. Both of these feats, if performed as said, can scarcely admit the
possibility of trick or slight of hand, and must stand as the most astonishing
instances of jugglery on record.
CHAPTER XI.
Food for horses. Squaws and their performances. Dogs and dog-meat. Return to
Fort. Starvation. Travel by guess. Death from drinking. Medicine-making. A
Burial. Little Lodge and the French trader. A speech in council. Journey to White
river. High winds and snow. Intense sufferings and painful results.
A LARGE grove of cottonwood near us, day after day was graced by groups of
village squaws, armed with axes, for the procurement of horse food.
The bark of this tree is eaten freely by both horses and mules, and answers well
as a substitute for corn or oats. Animals will thrive upon it in a remarkable
manner, and even in the summer months they prefer it to grass. The bark of red
elm is also used for the same purpose.
The operations of the squaws at such times contributed greatly to our
amusement. Climbing fearlessly to the topmost branch of the highest tree, they
would there lop off the surrounding boughs, with as much apparent ease as
though footed upon terra firma.
And then, the enormous loads they would carry, lashed together with cords and
slung to their backs, were enough to make a giant stagger. Dogs, harnessed to
travées had their part to perform, and ofttimes were they a source of vexation to
their mistresses.
A squaw, trudging along under a full donkey-load of cottonwood, and followed by
a squad of half-naked children, presented a spectacle quite interesting; but this
was rendered rather comical, withal, when two or three draught dogs with their
heavy-laden travées reluctantly brought up the rear—every now and then lying
down for weariness, or squatting to loll and gaze at their companions.
Now, she coaxes and caresses to urge them forward—they still delay. Then she
turns briskly towards them with a stick—get out, dogs! — "Yierh! Warktashne
ceicha," cries the squaw, accompanying her denunciation with blows, and away
go the yelping troop as fast as legs can carry them.
Dogs are the necessary appendage of every Indian lodge, and generally form an
equal portion of the village population. They present almost all the different
varieties of the canine species, from the wolf to the spaniel, and from the spaniel
to the hairless dog of Africa. The wolf, however, is predominant, and, taken
together, they more assimilate a gang of wolves than anything else. Indeed, the
different varieties of prairie wolves hold familiar intercourse with the village dogs,
and associate with them on friendly terms.
The species used for draught, is a large, stout-built, wolfish-looking creature, of
the Exquimaux breed. Trained to his duties in early life, he is generally both
submissive and tractable. The drudgery of a squaw, which is at all times onerous,
without his ready aid would prove past endurance.
But these dogs are also useful in another respect. Their flesh furnishes an article
highly esteemed for food, and which almost invariably graces the soldiers' feast
and every other scene of conviviality. However much the squamishness of the
reader may revolt at the suggestion, justice impels me to say, the flesh of a fat
Indian dog, suitably cooked, is not inferior to fresh pork; and, by placing side by
side select parts of the two, it would be no easy task even for a good judge to tell
the difference, either by looks or taste, unless he were previously informed.
Towards the last of January, buffalo having left the vicinity, the Indians, as a
necessary consequence, were compelled to move. A great scarcity of provisions
prevailed among them, and we ourselves were scarcely better off than they.
Our stock in hand was nearly exhausted, and an abandonment of the post
became absolutely necessary, —a thing, however, which could not be performed
without a fresh supply of horses and cattle from Fort Platte. For this purpose, I
volunteered my services, and, accompanied by two engagés, was promptly
under way.
A few hours' ride brought us to the head of White river, where, consuming at a
meal our scanty eatables, from that onward we were left entirely destitute.
This was the first occasion subjecting me to the pains of hunger for so long a
time. The second day I experienced the greatest annoyance, and then it was I
felt some of the realities of starvation. The third day, however, I awoke in the
morning scarcely thinking of breakfast. In fact, my appetite seemed quite
passive, and the only sensation I felt was a kind of weakness and lassitude,
evincing the lack of proper nourishment.
The morning was cloudy and threatening. Soon after leaving camp, snow began
to fall, thick and fast. The day proved so dark, objects were indiscernible at the
distance of a hundred yards in advance. Travelling, as we were, over a trackless
prairie, with nothing to guide us but the wind and the position of the grass, it was
by the merest accident we reached our destination a few minutes before nightfall.
Our sudden appearance was the occasion of general surprise to the Fort hands,
and, after a brief explanation, we began to make amends for previous
abstinence.
At first, a few mouthfuls sufficed, — but soon I again felt hungry and could be
satisfied only with a double quantity, — in an equally short time my stomach
demanded a still further supply, and, by the next day, hunger became so keen it
seemed almost insatiable. An interval of three or four weeks was requisite before
it assumed its wonted tone.
During our stay here, an Indian family, occupying one of the Fort rooms, indulged
themselves in a drunken spree.
Having procured a quantity of the American Fur Company's liquor, the effects of
their lavish potations soon became manifest to all within hearing distance. But
the din of drunken revelry erelong assumed the wail of mourning and sorrow.
Hearing the strange commotion, I entered the room to ascertain the cause. There
lay, helpless upon the floor, and apparently at the point of death, a squaw of
some eighteen years;— she, in her eagerness, had swallowed nearly a pint of
the vile stuff, undiluted, and now experienced its dreadful consequences.
But most conspicuous in the throng was a large, obese, cross-eyed Indian,
earnestly engaged in his medicine-performances for her recovery.
A breech-cloth was his sole garb, as, with eyes half strained from their sockets
and volving in a strange unearthly manner, he stood, first upon one foot and then
upon the other, alternately—then, stamping the floor as if to crush it through, and
meanwhile, grunting, screeching, and bellowing, and beating his breast or the
wall with his clenched fists, —then, with inhaled breath, swelling like a puff-ball,
he would bend over his patient and apply sugescents to her mouth, throat and
breast.
This done, sundry ejections of saliva prepared his mouth for the reception of an
ample draught of water, with which he bespatted her face and forehead.
But yet, all these extraordinary efforts failed to produce their designed effect. The
poor squaw grew weaker, and her breathing became fainter and more difficult.
Some powerful restorative must be adopted, or she will soon be beyond the
reach of medicine, —so thought the officiating doctor; or, at least, his succeeding
antics indicated that such were the cogitations of his mind. Standing for a minute
or two in the attitude of reflection, an idea stuck him. Ah, he has it now! This
cannot fail.
Snatching a butcher-knife and hastening with it to the fire, he heats the point to
redness upon the coals, —then balancing it between his teeth, at a toss he flings
it vaulting above his head and backward upon the floor, then, re-catching it, he
goes through the performance a second and a third time.
Thus premised, he addresses himself with threefold energy to the grotesque and
uncouth manœuvres before described. If he had stamped his feet, he now
stamps them with a determination hitherto unknown;—if he had thumped his
breast and beat the walls, he now thumps and beats as if each blow were
intended to prostrate the object against which it was directed, — if he had
grunted, screeched, and bellowed, he now grunts, screeches, bellows, and yells,
till the very room quakes with the reverberations of demoniac noise;— if he had
gagged, puffed, and swelled, he now gags, puffs, and swells, as if he would
explode from the potency of his extraordinary inflations.
Then, with an air of confidence, he hies to his patient and commences a process
of manipulation from her breast downwards, and reverse, —and then again he
repeats his previous operations, with scrupulous exactness and unsparing effort,
in all their varied minutiæ.
But, alas for the medicine-man!—the squaw died, despite the omnipotence of his
skill!
Then was enacted another such a scene of piteous wailing, as Indians alone
have in requisition, as vent for their grief.
After the usual preliminaries, the corpse of the deceased was placed upon a
scaffold beside that of Susu-ceicha, the old chief of whom I have spoken of in a
former chapter. Each member of the bereaved family deposited a tuft of hair in
the sack containing the meat and trinkets placed beneath her head. A smooth
piece of cottonwood slab was then affixed to the scaffold, upon which were
traced, in vermilion, certain quadrangular characters of unknown meaning, —
answering well to the idea of an inscription of name and age.
A difficulty occurred about this time between a trader of the American Fur
Company and an Oglalla chief, known as Little Lodge.
The latter had become crazed by liquor, and, being rather turbulent, was put out
of the Fort. But, effecting a re-entrance, he again proved equally annoying. The
trader then commenced quarrelling with him, and undertook to seize his arms.
This the Indian resisted, when the trader discharged a pistol at him, but missed
his object. Here was a deadly affront, that blood alone could wipe away.
With great difficulty, the Indian was finally disarmed and bound. He was thus
secured till the next day, when he was liberated;—still, however, he muttered
threats of revenge.
Two or three weeks subsequently, Little Lodge was present at a soldiers' feast,
and the question of war with the Americans was a prominent subject of
consideration.
Several speeches were made, both for and against it; and, though the prevailing
sentiment seemed to be of an adverse kind, it scarcely required a half dozen
words to turn the scale upon either side.
Little Lodge arose to address the council, and the friends of the whites, knowing
the vengeful spirit that yet rankled in his bosom at the remembrance of his recent
injuries, began to fear for the continuance of peace.
Contrary to the universal expectation, he contended for its maintenance. "But,"
said he, "Little Lodge has grievances of his own, and they call for redress.
"There is one among the pale-faces whose blood must wash away the foul blot
that rests upon the name of Little Lodge. I know him well. He is not a Long-knife.
The Long-knives are all the friends of Little Lodge. Let the Lacota take them by
the hand whenever he meets them upon the prairie. It is good that he do so.
They are very many and exceedingly rich. Their country is a large one, and far
away towards the sunrising. They, too, are strong for war. They have big hearts
and strong, and they are very good to the red man. They bring to him many good
things; why, then, should the Lacota hate the Long-knife?
"Do my brothers ask who it is of the pale-faces the Little Lodge would remove
from the light of day? Know, then, he is not of the Long-knives, — he is of the
Warceichas, (Frenchmen.) The Warceichas are not Longknives!
"And, do my brothers ask, who are the Warceichas?
"Aye, who are they? Little Lodge cannot tell; — who of all the Lacotas can? Who
ever heard of the country of these men? No one. They have no country, —they
are no people. They are as the wandering dogs27 that infest our hunting grounds
and prey upon the game formed by the Good Spirit for the red man's sustenance.
They steal into the land of the red man, and sneak around from place to place; —
for they have no home; they have no country; they are no people!
"One of these it was who bade the medicine-iron speak its death-word to Little
Lodge, and sought to spill the blood of a Lacota brave, after that he had made
him a fool by means of his thickened28 fire-water!
"Should Little Lodge fall by the hand of the Warceicha? He might fall by the hand
of a Long-knife, and the nation would honor his memory, —but never, should the
Warceicha bring him low!
"Then, is it not good that Little Lodge should be avenged upon this lost dog —
this outcast of the world — that the whelps of a motherless breed may cease to
insult and wrong the Lacotas? Which of all my brothers will say nay?"
The address was received in silence, — no one presuming to oppose an answer
to its sentiments. Whether the speaker executed his threats of vengeance
against the offending trader, I am yet unadvised.
27
Chunka-monet, or travelling dogs, is the name applied by these Indians to wolves
28
Allusion is here made to the drugged liquor supposed to have been palmed upon him by the trader.
Having remained two nights and a day at Fort Platte, we again started for White
river, taking with us three yoke of oxen and several horses, one of which was
laden with dried meat.
The snow greatly retarded our progress from the first, and so obscured the trail
we were compelled to travel mostly by guess. The sun, too, was shut out by a
tenebrous atmosphere, and we could judge of our proper course only by
observing the movements of the clouds,29 with the general range of the hills and
ravines, or inclination of the grass.
The broad expanse of unbroken snow lying from Rawhide to L'eau-qui court,
brought a chill tremor with the thought of crossing it. Yet, go we must! It was no
time to falter when the fate of others, perhaps, depended upon our prompt
advance.
But the effort was no child's play. If we had experienced a tedious time during a
former journey, what could we expect now? The whole interval of thirty miles was
covered with snow, that grew deeper and deeper as we proceeded. Every hollow
and ravine was filled, and the route otherwise seriously impeded by huge drifts
and embankments.
We were frequently compelled to break foot-paths for our animals, and ever and
anon pull them by main strength from the deep pitfalls into which they would
plunge and become almost lost to view. In this manner our progress was slow, —
the average depth through which we waded being but little less than two feet.
The rising of a fierce head wind, piercing as the blasts of Nova Zembla, drove the
snow into our faces with mad fury and added immeasurably to our sufferings.
In this manner night shut down upon us, while yet far distant from any campingplace. And, such a night! Oh, storms and deadly winter, foul and fierce! how
swept ye "through the darkened sky," and with your awful howlings rendered "the
savage wilderness more wild!"
The creeping cold on every nerve played freely, in haste to sting our vitals, and
lay us each
"along the snows a stiffen'd corse, Stretch'd out and bleaching in the
northern blast!"
The impress of this event can never be effaced from my mind. It was midnight
ere we arrived at the timberless L'eau-qui-court and struck camp. Our animals
29
The idea of directing our course by the movements of the clouds is doubtless a novel suggestion to most readers; but
its philosophy will be readily comprehended by a bare mention of the fact, that the winds of these regions almost
invariably blow from a west-southwest point; and, as they are usually high, it is no very extraordinary performance to
calculate the bearing of north or south, even in the most obscure weather.
needed water, but we had neither axe or tomahawk to cut through the thick ice
with which the creek was coated. As a remedy for this lack, all three of us
advanced upon it, and, by our united efforts at jumping, caused a lengthy fissure
with gentle escarpments towards each shore, that left midway an ample pool.
Having driven the cattle to this, in their clumsy movements upon the ice, two of
them fell, and, sliding down the inclined plain, lay struggling in the freezing water,
unable to rise. Our only resort was to drag them to the shore by main strength;
for, left in their then condition, they must have frozen to death in a very short
time.
Here commenced a series of pulling and wrenching, that, in our chilled and
exhausted state, we were ill-prepared to endure.
For awhile our efforts proved vain. A backward-slide succeeded each headwaypull, and vexed us with useless toil. Thus we worried for nearly three hours in
water knee-deep!
At length, having procured a rope and fastened one end to their horns and the
other around a pointed rock upon the shore, and gathering the slack at each
successive thrust, we finally succeeded in placing them both, one after the other,
upon dry land.
But, now we were in a thrice sorry plight. Not a stick of wood could be raised, far
or near, of which to build a fire, and bois de vache, the great substitute of the
prairies, was too deeply covered with snow for procurement. Our clothes, wet to
the waist, were frozen upon us, and the merciless wind, with stinging keenness,
pierced us through at every breath, and stood us forth as living monuments of
ice!
Could men of iron endure such incomprehensible hardships, —such
inexpressible sufferings? Yet we survived them all!
Spreading a few robes upon the snow, we lay down for sleep, dinnerless and
supperless. I was now seized with a chill, which lasted for two hours or more; and
so violent were its actions I could scarcely keep the covering upon me.
My companions, however, though not similarly afflicted, were worse off than
myself. One had his hands and ears frozen, and the other his hands and feet, —
the painful consequences of which, as the frost began to yield to the influence of
generated warmth, were too apparent in their groans and writhings.
Morning at length came, and the sun arose bright and clear. The winds had
ceased their ragings, and a clement atmosphere seemed pouring upon us the
balm of sympathy for miseries so recently endured.
But their direful effects were not thus easily eradicated. The feet of one poor
fellow were so badly frozen, it was three months before he entirely recovered;
while another lost a portion of one of his ears. As for myself, a severe cold settled
in my teeth, producing an intensely painful ache and swoollen face, that
continued for eight or ten days.
It seems almost miraculous that we should have escaped so easily, and often,
even after so long an interval, I shudder at the recollection of this anguishing
scene.
Two days subsequently we reached our destination, and found all things pretty
much in statu quo.
CHAPTER XII.
Another drunken spree. Horses devoured by wolves. An upset. A blowing up.
Daring feat of wolves. A girl offered for liquor. Winter on the Platte. Boat building.
Hunting expedition. Journey up the Platte. Island camp. Narrow escape. Snow
storm. Warm Spring. Pass of the Platte into the prairies. A valley. Bitter
Cottonwood. Indian forts. Wild fruit. Root-digging. Cherry tea and its uses.
Geology of the country. Soils, grasses, herbs, plants, and purity of atmosphere.
Horse-shoe creek. A panther. Prairie dogs and their peculiarities.
OUR intended evacuation of the post was postponed till the week following, and,
meanwhile, the few customers, that still hung on, were careful to improve the
passing opportunity of steeping their senses in liquor.
Another general drunken frolic was the consequence, ending as usual in a fight
and still further attempts upon the life of our trader.
Soon after this, our catalogue of disasters was increased by the death of two
horses, which fell a prey to wolves.
The case was an aggravated one, and provoking in the extreme. Both of them
were "buffalo horses," and the fleetest and most valuable in our possession, —in
fact, they were the only ones of which we ventured to boast. We had others of
little worth, so poor and feeble they could oppose none resistance to magpies,30
and much less to the rapacity of wolves.
But, no. These blood-thirsty depredators, desirous of a feast on fat things, were
determined to have it, reckless of cost, —and, the encrimsoned tracks, coursing
the snowy plain in every direction where passed the swift chargers ill vain effort
to escape, proved that they won their supper at an enormous expense of legwear.
Feb. 4th. All things being in readiness, we bade farewell to winter quarters, and
commenced our journey.
Crossing the river soon after, on ascending the opposite bank, a cart upset and
deposited its contents in the water. The load, consisting of robes and powder,
became thoroughly saturated, and we were employed a full hour in fishing it out.
The stream being waist-deep and filled with floating ice, amid which we were
forced to plunge, our task was far from a pleasant one.
The freight needed drying and we were detained two days for that purpose.
Meanwhile the drenched powder was subjected to the experiments of one of our
30
The magpie of the mountains is the torment of all sore-backed horses, particularly during the winter season. Despite
opposition it will feed upon their skinless flesh, often to the very bone.
engagés. Having spread it to dry, he was carelessly bending over it, when a
spark from the camp-fire struck the ready ignitible; a sprightly flash, enveloping
the luckless wight in a sheet of flame, told the instant result. Springing to his feet,
he exclaimed:
"Bless my stars! That's what I call regular blowing up!"
"Ave, aye, my lad," says one. "You was always a bright youth, —but never before
did you appear half so brilliant. 'Tis a fact, or I'm a liar!"
Resuming our course, the second night following was passed at a pool of water
between L'eau-qui-court and Rawhide. Here, having placed my shoes under my
head for better security, I slept soundly till morning. Rising at an early hour, I
turned for them, but one was missing, and, after searching far and near, it could
not be found.
The mystery of its disappearance, however, was fully solved by the numerous
wolf tracks that appeared on all sides;—some straggling marauder had stolen it
during the night, and quietly deposited it in his empty stomach as the substitute
for an early breakfast.
Our camp at Rawhide was beset with a throng of Indians from an adjoining
village, who, as usual, were loudly clamorous and importunate for liquor. A
beautiful young squaw was brought in, to exchange for that article. However,
their solicitations were of no avail and their vitiated appetites went unappeased.
On the 12th of February we reached the Fort, and thus ended our disastrous and
eventful expedition.
Winter in the neighborhood of the Platte had been remarkably mild, and at no
time during the season had the snow remained upon the ground to exceed a day.
Vegetation, even thus early, was beginning to put forth, and bring to view the
beauty and loveliness of spring.
Preparations were already on foot for building a boat for the transportation of furs
to the States by way of the river, and, at the solicitation of the company's agent, I
reluctantly consented to take charge of it during the voyage, —thus deferring, for
the present, my design of visiting Oregon.
The timber used in its construction was procured from the neighboring pine hills,
and prepared by a laborious process of hand, with the aid of a pit-saw. The ribs
and other timber were obtained from an ash grove, a few miles above the Fort,
and three men were busily engaged in putting all things in readiness for the
expected spring rise—an event which seldom occurs before the 15th of May.
The winter's trade having closed, an interval of nearly three months' leisure
followed, which resulted in a hunting expedition that included my self with six
others.
Anxious to explore the mountains, we set our faces westward; but, owing to the
reported closeness of game en route, very little provisions were taken with other
necessaries.
Keeping the river bottom by a rocky ridge for some ten miles, our course led
through several beautiful groves and broad stretches of rich alluvial soil, that
presented an encouraging prospect to agriculturists. After a few hours' ride we
came to a point at which the stream sweeps round the ridge's base, causing a
vertical wall of lias and sandstone nearly one hundred and fifty feet high.
Abandoning the river bottom at this place, we ascended to the high prairie on the
left, where an interesting plateau greeted us, extending far away to the south and
west, till it became lost in the neighboring mountains. Continuing on a short
distance, we again struck the river, at a small opening between two hills, and
made camp in a grove of willows.
Opposite this place is a large heavily wooded island, of a blueish loam, upon a
substratum of fossiliferous limestone.
Above and below are lofty walls of limestone and ferrugiuous rock, that, in many
places, overhang the sweeping waters at their base, and form roofage beneath
which swarms of prairie swallows are wont to raise their annual broods.
Consuming our scanty supply of provisions at a single meal, each soon disposed
of himself for the night. A mild atmosphere invited to repose; and, enwrapped in a
single robe, my troubles were speedily forgotten in a quiet slumber.
But during the succeeding interval, a change came over the spirit of my dream. I
was suddenly aroused by the crash of a huge tree, that fell across my bed, and
only a providential curve arching upwards, had saved me from instant death!
"Hurra, for me!" I exclaimed, as my startled campmates came clustering around,
—" It's better to be born lucky than RICH!"
The wind was now blowing a perfect hurricane, and the trees tottered around us,
threatening every moment to fall. In an hour or so, however, the gale abating, we
again addressed ourselves to sleep.
Towards morning, feeling a disagreeable warmth and superincumbent pressure, I
was induced to uncover, and, looking out, the cause was explained by the
presence of a dense snow that covered the ground to the depth of several
inches. The fallen snow was melting fast, and that yet descending soon merged
into rain.
A pretty-looking set of fellows were we, in a comparatively short time! —blankets,
robes, clothes, and every article about us were wet—soaking wet—and covered
with mud. It required an effort of several hours to kindle a fire, so thoroughly
saturated was everything with water; —this done, we all gathered around it,
and—such a group! —Oh, the beauties of mud and water! A painter might
describe it, —I cannot.
If the reader imagines we felt in a superlative good humor while standing there,
breakfastless, shivering, and wet, he has conjured up a strange illusion.
It having ceased raining about mid-day, in the course of the afternoon we
enjoyed a beautiful sunshine for a couple of hours, which enabled us to assume
a better travelling plight; and, favored by a mild atmosphere and clear sky, on the
following morning, we again resumed our course.
Striking upon an Indian trail, we bore leftward from the river, and, in a short ride,
came to a sand creek shut in by precipitous embankments of limestone, through
which our road led by a narrow defile. A transparent spring gushes from the right
bank with considerable noise, furnishing a beautiful streamlet to its hitherto high
bed, which is known as the "Warm Spring."
A short distance above the mouth of this creek, the Platte makes its final egress
from the Black Hills through a tunnel-like pass, walled in upon either side by
precipitous cliffs of red-sandstone and siliceous limestone, sometimes
overhanging the stream at their base, and towering to a height of from three to
five hundred feet. The high table lands constituting these immense walls, are
surmounted with shrubs and occasional pines and cedars, that unite to present a
wild romantic scenery.
Continuing on, and bearing still further leftward, we passed a beautiful valley,
graced with several springs and a small grove of cottonwood, with cherry and
plum bushes, near which rose a conical hill abundant in fossiliferous limestone of
a snowy whiteness. A diminutive pond in the vicinity afforded several varieties of
the testaceous order, both bivalves and univalves—a circumstance quite rare
among mountain waters. The soil of this locality appeared to be a compound of
clay, sand, and marl, and well adapted to agriculture.
Passing this, our course led over a gently undulating prairie, bounded on either
side by pine hills. The soil was generally of a reddish, sandy loam, intermixed
with clay; and, judging from the long dry grass of the preceding year, it was both
rich and productive.
Towards night we arrived at a large creek, bearing the name of Bitter
Cottonwood, —so called from the abundance of that species of poplar in its
valley.
These trees generally grow very tall and straight with expansive tops, —
averaging from twenty-five to one hundred and fifty feet in height.
The creek occupies a wide, sandy bed, over which the water is dispersed in
several shallow streams. The valley is broad and of a jetty, vegetable mould,
variegated, at intervals, with layers of gravel deposited by aqueous currents, and
is bounded on both sides by abrupt acclivities leading to the beautiful plateaux
and lofty pine hills so abundant in the neighborhood.
The remains of three or four Indian forts were situated adjoining the place
selected for our encampment. These were built of logs, arranged in a circular
form, and enclosing an area, sufficient for the accommodation of twenty or thirty
warriors. The walls were generally about six feet high, with single entrances, and
apertures in various places for the use of their defenders in case of attack.
All Indian forts, meeting my observation in subsequent travels, with one or two
exceptions, were of the same general description. Some, however are almost
entirely roofed in by an arched covering, presenting a coniform appearance. The
only exception to this mode of fortification was of a quadrangular form, and in a
solitary instance the materials were of rock. The latter structure I shall take
occasion to describe in due course.
The valley gave abundant indication of wild fruit at the proper season, such as
plums, cherries, currants, goose and buffalo berries, (shepherdia argentea.) The
signs of game were very plentiful, particularly elk; after camp two or three of us
sallied out with our rifles in quest of these wary animals, while others were busily
employed in digging for roots to appease the gnawing of appetite, which began to
make itself most sensibly felt by all.
About sundown both parties came in, —the hunters quite dispirited, not having
seen any thing in the shape of elk or other game, —but the root diggers had
been more lucky and brought with them a small supply of nutritious aliments,
which were divided equally among the company, and, through scarcely a half
dozen mouthfuls were apportioned to each, they answered, to some extent, the
designed object.
These roots consisted of two varieties, viz: pomme blanc, and commote.
The pomme blanc, or white apple, is a native of the prairies and mountains, oval
shaped and about three and a half inches in circumference. It is encased in a thin
fibrous tegument, which, when removed, exposes an interior of white pulpy
substance, much like a turnip in taste. It generally grows at a depth of three or
four inches, in the soil of hill-sides and plateaux, where is found a reddish clay
loam abundant in fragmentary rocks and gravel. The stalk attains a height of
about three inches, and in general description is quite like a well known article,
common to the States, called "sheep-sorrel." At the proper season it bears a
handsome white blossom, that would suffer no disparagement when placed in
juxtaposition with many of the choicer specimens of our gardens.
The commote31 is a root much like the common radish in size and shape, while a
brownish skin envelopes a substance of milky whiteness, soft and nutritious, and
of an agreeable taste. It is found most abundant in river bottoms, and requires a
rich alluvial soil, well mixed with sedimentary deposites and vegetable matter. It
generally penetrates to a depth of about four inches. Its leaves resemble those of
the carrot in shape and color, and seldom grow to exceed two inches from the
ground, while a stalk equally unpretending, bears a blueish blossom, not without
some just claim to beauty.
The pomme blanc and commote are equally good whether boiled or raw and are
uniformly harmless, even with those unaccustomed to their use as an article of
food.
Making way with our scanty supply, a fire was struck and a kettle of tea prepared
from wild cherry bark, which proved quite wholesome.
This, as I ascertained, is a drink quite common among mountaineers and Indians
in the spring season, and is used for purifying the blood and reducing it to
suitable consistency for the temperature of summer. As the successful performer
of the task assigned, I most cordially attest to its virtues, and recommend it as
the most innocent and effective medicine, if medicine it may be called, that can
be employed for a result so necessary to general health.
Early on the succeeding day we resumed our journey.
I now for the first time noticed a gradual change in the geological character of the
country. The soil in many places appears to be sterile, and is generally of a red
clayish nature, mixed with sand and fragmentary rock, and strongly impregnated
with mineral salts, among which nitre forms a prominent component. Some
spots, for a considerable extent, are entirely destitute of vegetation, and present
a surface whitened by saline efflorescences, among which nitre and sulphate of
soda form a predominant part.
The character of the various moulds (with the exception of the alluvion in the
vicinity of the rivers and creeks) is almost entirely primitive, like numerous strata
of rocks upon which they repose.
The grass, from the dry specimens of the previous summer's growth, appeared to
be of a longer and a coarser kind, and more sparse and isolated. The short
buffalo-grass of the grand prairie had almost entirely disappeared, — in some
places a blueish salt grass (herba salee) showed itself in plats uncropped by
game. Artemisie,32 or rather greasewood of the mountaineers, became quite
31
32
I am ignorant of the meaning or derivation of this name.
Lt. Fremont, in his report relative to the proceedings of the expedition of 1842, '3, and'4, has designated some three
varieties of shrubs by the general term artemisie, among which are greasewood and prairie sage. Although the latter are
abundant, as did absinthe, or wild sage, together with several specimens of the
cacti family, which are the common pest of the mountain prairies.
The purifying effects of saline exhalations, with the odor of the grease. wood and
absinthe of the prairies, plateaux and table lands, and the balsam and cedar of
the adjacent mountains, afforded an atmosphere, even at this unfavorable
season, as aromatic as the air of Eden and as wholesome as the deathless clime
of Elysium.
Eastward lay a broad expanse of prairie, bounded only by the horizon, while
westward and upon either hand, the high summits of the Black Hills, with their
pines and snows, told our ingress to other and wilder scenes.
Our course for some twenty or twenty-five miles led through a broad valley,
though occasionally winding among rugged hills of red-sandstone and primitive
rock, with denuded sides and level summits, covered with shrubs and dwarfish
pines.
Towards night, on reaching a small stream, called Horse-shoe creek, we struck
camp. One of the party having killed a buck deer, we were promptly on hand, and
not at all backward in obeying the calls of appetite, sharpened by a continuous
abstinence of three days.
Deer-meat at this season of the year is very poor eating, —especially that of the
buck, —it being both lean and tough; but, indifferent as it was, we were too
hungry to be nice.
Previous to reaching camp I rode along the base of a small mountain, some
distance to the right of the main party, in quest of game; there I caught glimpse of
the first panther I had yet met with. Jumping from my horse, I thought to give him
a passing shot, —but he, neither liking my looks nor the smell of gunpowder,
made hasty retreat to his mountain home.
Passing leisurely on, my course led through a large village of prairiedogs, which
reminds me of having heretofore neglected a description of these singular
animals.
I am at a loss to imagine what it is in the habits or looks of the prairiedog that
entitles him to that appellation.
In appearance and size he more approximates a large species of the sciurus
family, commonly called the fox-squirrel, than anything I can name. His tail,
however, is but an inch and a half long, while his ears and legs are also short;—
as a whole, perhaps, he is a trifle larger and more corpulent than the fox-squirrel.
of the same family, the difference in their appearance is so marked, I have thought it proper to observe a nominal
distinction, and for that reason, they are called in subsequent pages by terms familiar to the mountaineers.
His "bark" is precisely like the occasional chatterings of that animal, and his color
is of a brownish red.
His habits are quite inoffensive and lead him to procure his food from roots and
grass. Clumsy in his motions, he seldom ventures far from home — fearful of the
numerous enemies that beset him on all sides, both from birds and beasts of
prey.
These animals congregate together in large villages, and dig their burrows
adjoining each other;—the dirt thrown from them often forming cone-like
elevations three or four feet high, in whose tops are the entrances. The latter are
nearly of a perpendicular descent for two feet, and then slope away to a great
distance under ground.
These villagers locate without regard to the vicinity of water, and it is gravely
doubted, by many persons, whether they make the same use of that fluid as
other animals;—I have seen large settlements of them in high arid prairies, at a
distance of fifteen or twenty miles from either stream or pool of water, and in
regions subject to neither rain nor dews.
They are keen of sight and scent, and seemed governed by some code of
federative regulations for mutual safety. Their guards are regularly posed at the
suburbs of every village, whose duty it is to be continually on the alert and give
timely warning of the approach of danger.
This the cautious sentinels discharge by standing erect at the slightest tainture of
the air, or startling noise, or strange appearance; and, having ascertained by
careful observations its nature and cause, they sound the sharp yelp and chatter
of alarm, in a hurried manner, —then, betaking themselves to the watch-towers
that protect the entrances to their burrows, from the verge of the steep parapets
they again renew their warning notes, when the whilom busy populace,
bescattered at brief distances for amusement or food, return with all possible
despatch to their ready holes and disappear from view.
The faithful sentinels are last to retreat from their posts, and not unfrequently
maintain their ground at the hazard of individual safety.
On the disappearance of the cause of alarm, they are the first to communicate
the pleasing intelligence, and soon the reassured community again betake
themselves to their business and sports.
The prairie-owl and rattlesnake maintain friendly relations with these inoffensive
villagers, and not unfrequently the three heterogeneous associates occupy the
same subterranean apartments;—a strange companionship of birds, beasts, and
reptiles! The prairie dog is extremely tenacious of life, and can seldom be killed
with a rifle, unless by a brain-shot; and then, even, it is difficult to secure him, as
his companions will immediately convey the carcase into their holes beyond
reach.
The flesh of these animals is tender and quite palatable, and their oil superior in
fineness, and absence from all grosser ingredients, to that of any other known
animals; it is highly valued as a medicine in certain cases.
CHAPTER XIII.
The Creek valley. The Platte as a mountain stream. Cañon. Romantic prospect.
Comical bear story. Perilous encounter with a wounded bull. Geological remarks.
Division of party. Safety of spring travel. La Bonte's creek. Remarks by the way.
Service-berry. Deer Creek. General observations. Moccasin making. Box-elder.
Bear killed. Excellence of its flesh. Different kinds of bears in Oregon and the
mountains. The grizzly bear, his nature and habits.
HORSE-SHOE creek is a stream of considerable size, that traces its way through
a broad valley of rich alluvion, well timbered with cottonwood and box-elder, and
affording all the usual varieties of mountain fruit. The grass of the preceding
year's growth was quite rank and stout, giving evidence of a fertile soil.
Resuming our course, we again bore towards the river with the design of
crossing, and, after a few hours' ride came to its banks, through a broad opening
between two ridges of hills that communicated with it from the high prairies and
table lands upon the left.
Here, however, fording was impracticable, the stream being too high and the
current swift. The Platte of the mountains retains scarcely one characteristic of
the river with which the reader has hitherto become so familiarized. It is now
confined to a bed of rock and gravel, not exceeding two hundred yards in width,
and is of unwonted clearness and transparency. Its banks are steep, and the
attrition of high waters discloses a deep vegetable mould in their vicinity,
favorable to the growth of grain or other produce. A small bottom of rich sandy
loam upon the opposite side lay at the base of a high ridge of table lands, which
presented its rugged sides of red sandstone, almost vertical in their position, and
ornamented with an occasional stunted pine, or cedar, or shrub of the buffaloberry, (shepherdia argentsa,) while at their base reposed, in huge masses, a
profuse medley of fallen fragments, strown around in all the wild confusion of
savage scenery.
A few hundred yards to the left, the Platte forces its way through a barrier of table
lands, forming one of those striking peculiarities incident to mountain streams,
called a "Cañon"33.
Improving the opportunity afforded by a short stay, I ascended an eminence to
enjoy a full view of the grand spectacle. The mountain through which the river
finds passage, at this place, is from five to eight hundred feet high, opposing
perpendicular walls upon each side, that at many points overhang the narrow
stream which sweeps with its foaming waters among the rocks below.
33
The Spanish word "cañon" implies a narrow, tunnel-like passage between high and precipitous banks, formed by
mountains or table lands. It is pronounced KANYON and is a familiar term in the vocabulary of a mountaineer.
This cañon is nearly two miles in length. About midway of the distance the whole
stream is precipitated in an unbroken volume from a ledge of rocks, causing a
cataract of some twenty or twenty-five feet descent.
Standing upon the dizzy verge of this frightful chasm, and gazing adown its dark
abyss, the aspect is one of terrific sublimity, and such an one as will cause the
beholder to shrink back with instinctive dread!
These walls are principally of red-sandstone, and ferruginous rock, the precise
character of which I was unable to determine. Upon the summit noticed an
abundance of silex, with some elegant specimens of crystalline quartz, that,
reflecting the sun's rays, shone like gems in the crown of a mountain-god; a
number of singular ligneous petrifactions also met my observation, principally
consisting of pine and cedar.
The surrounding country brought within the scope of vision an interesting and
romantic scene. The lofty table land in front (with diversified surfaces of granitic
rock and vegetable earth, affording a scanty nourishment for herbage and
foothold for dwarfish cedars and pines) spread far away to the snow-clad
mountains of the north, —while rearward at its base lay the broad valley through
which passes the Oregon trail, shut in upon two sides by rugged hills; and farther
on arise the snowy sides of the Laramie chain, with their cloud-capped summits.
To the left, peak towering above peak, in gradual succession, point to the ridge
dividing the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific; and, to the right, the lessening
eminences, vallons, and plateaux, guide the eye to where the boundless prairie
revels in wild beauty and owns itself the realm of eternal Solitude!
How magnificent must be the scene when spring arrays the surrounding
landscape in her own loveliness, and bedecks the wilderness with gaudy
verdure!
Bearing again to the left, we continued— our course by a winding buffalo-path
which soon brought us to a broad valley bordering upon the Platte.
Riding on, we soon came to a large sand creek; and, observing several bulls in
the vicinity, we accepted the advantage offered by a small grove of cottonwoods
and willows, with a clear spring, and struck camp.
During the day, the oddity of an old Franco-Canadian, who accompanied us,
afforded me considerable amusement. Observing that he had carried his gun
uncharged for several days past, a circumstance so singular in this country led
me to enquire the cause. The old fellow, with the most laughable sang froid,
answered as follows:
“Me carry fusee load? No, no! monsieur. No good, carry fusee load sur le
printems. Certes, much bear come out—him dangereux. Me live long en le
montagnes; oui, no remarque—duo, tree, great many year! Sacre dem bear, —
vat you call him en la American?"
"Grizzly bear, I suppose you mean," said I.
"Oui, oui, monsieur; much graces, monsieur! Oui, gizzle bear; me parler bon
American, que no remarque gizzle bear! éntonner! Sacre dom gizzle bear, him
come out une day, kill me de près."'
"Well," continued I; "what has that to do with carrying your gun unloaded?"
"Oui, oui; pardonner, monsieur. Me parler tel une bon Amerian! Me reciter, sacre
dem bear, —vat you call him, monsieur? Oh, gizzle bear! Sacre dem gizzle bear,
me see him une day, en le printems; big, grand felleu. Shoot him fusee; make
him much blood; no kill him. Sacre dem bear, gizzle bear, him jump for me. 'War-r-h!' he say, (imitating the bear.) Bon Dieu! me no stay dare; me bein fast run;
me abandonner la fusee; me climb une leetil pine. Sacre dem bear—vat you call
him? Ah, oui, gizzle bear. Certes, monsieur, me parler bon American, tel une
naturel! Sacre dem bear, him come to tree; no climb him, —he too leetil. Look
him all round, den; sacre dem bear, gizzle bear did. See fusee lie; pick him up;
cock him fusee, sacre dem bear, gizzle bear did. Take him aim at me; snap him
fusee tree time. Oh, mon Dieu! mon Dieu! Suppose him fusee been load!
Tonnerre de bateme! Him shoot me; him kill me dead! sacre dem bear, dem
gizzle bear vould! Certes, monsieur; por le assuré, sacre dem gizzle bear, him kill
me! en le vérité, monsieur, him kill me dead!"
"So," resumed I, "your reason for not carrying your gun loaded is, you are fearful
that a bear might chance to get hold of it and shoot you!"
"Certes, monsieur; en le verite! No carry gun load, sur le printerms. Sacre dem
bear get 'old of him, he shoot!"
Towards night, two of our party, who had gone in pursuit of buffalo, returned
laden with meat, which, though poor, was far preferable to the lean venison we
had fed upon for the last twenty-four hours.
The male buffalo, at this season of the year, is generally fatter than the female,
unless it be one of the few barren cows that sometimes are found in large bands;
but, neither is worth boasting of.
After our long fasting and indifferent fare for six entire days, it is not marvellous
that we improved, with quickened zest, the present opportunity of feasting.
The day following, two parties started in quest of game, —one of which killed
three bulls, at as many shots, within half an hour after leaving camp.
The other party also killed two, but, in securing one of them, they met with an
exciting adventure.
Both animals were extended upon the ground, one entirely and the other
apparently dead—the hunters, having butchered one of them, proceeded to the
other, and were in the act of raising him to the right position for the
commencement of operation. The old fellow, not relishing the like familiarity from
new acquaintances, sprang to his feet, and made a plunge at the afrighted
hunters, who only escaped the fatal charge by one of those admirable feats of
quick dodging so often in requisition among mountaineers.
The bull, passing between them, fell head foremost against the ground, two or
three feet beyond the spot they had occupied scarcely a second previous; —then
rising, with glaring eyes and distended nostrils, and mouth foaming with blood
and rage, he pursued one of them in hot chase, for a distance of several hundred
yards. So close was the bull in a few leaps, that with a sweep of his horns he
gored the hunter's back, tearing away his pantaloons and coat, and prostrating
him upon all-fours at the edge of a deep ravine, down which he tumbled;—the
enraged beast followed, but the force of an unbroken headway landed him, with
a tremendous shock, against the opposite bank, far beyond the hunter. Improving
the advantage thus gained, the latter escaped through the windings of the ravine,
and ascended the bank, without the reach of his pursuer.
Having procured his rifle, after nine more shots had riddled the lights of the bull's
carcase, the business of butchering was again commenced and terminated
without further mishap.
Our stay at this camp was prolonged for three or four days.
The geological character of the vicinity corresponds very much with that
previously remarked, and to describe it in full would seem too much like a
repetition. I have, perhaps, said sufficient to give the reader a correct idea of the
prominent characteristics of these parts, and hence, for the sake of brevity, shall
hereafter forbear further notes upon this subject, unless some uniform change or
striking peculiarity should call for a passing observation.
Prior to resuming our journey, a disagreement occurred between us relative to
the proposed route.
Some were desirous of proceeding southward into the Plains of Laramie; thence,
bearing eastward to Laramie river, following its valley to Fort Platte; —others
were anxious to continue up the Platte to Sweet Water, or further, and from
thence proceed as circumstances or inclination might suggest.
This difference finally resulted in a division of the party — four in favor of the
western, and three of the southern route, —myself being included with the
former.
Selecting two pack-mules for the conveyance of provisions and camp equipage,
the day following we mounted our horses and were under way. With the
exception of myself, the present party consisted of old and experienced
mountaineers, well acquainted with the country and the nature of Indians.
Though, in regard to the latter, little danger was apprehended at this season of
the year, as the Sioux had not yet left their winter quarters, and they rarely
traverse the vicinity of Sweet Water before the middle of May. Other tribes we
might look upon as friendly. We, therefore, anticipated a safe and pleasant
excursion.
During the day our course led over a rough undulating prairie, bounded on the
right mostly by the river, and on the left by the mountains.
In the heads of valleys and ravines I noticed numerous withered stalks of the
bread-root, (psoralea esculenta,) indicating its great abundance, and also an
increased quantity of absinthe.
At night we encamped at the forks of a small stream called La Bonte's creek.
Near the confluence of its waters with the Platte are the remains of a log cabin,
occupied by a trading party several years since.
The creek is tolerably well timbered, and the valley, through which it winds its
way, affords many beautiful bottoms of rich soil. The rock in the vicinity disclosed
a furruginous character, especially the sandstone.
Among the usual fruit-bearing shrubs and bushes, I here noticed the “service
berry.”
This kind of fruit is very abundant in the mountainous parts of Oregon, where it
attains a size but little inferior to the common plum, and is highly esteemed for its
superior flavor.
Leaving La Bonte's creek, we travelled by easy stages, for three successive
days, and struck camp at the mouth of Deer creek.
Our course led over several beautiful streams, most of them well timbered with
cottonwood and box-elder, and occasionally skirted by rich bottoms. Previous to
reaching this point we followed along the Platte valley, for a distance of some
twenty or thirty miles, which presented several fine bottoms of rich sandy soil
upon either bank, together with numerous groves of cottonwood.
The face of the country is generally a succession of ridges and hollows,
intersected by ravines and small streams of water.
At Deer creek, and for some distance before reaching it, the mountain chain to
our left approaches within four or five miles of the river rising abruptly to a height
of from eight to fifteen hundred feet, with frowning brows and pine-clad summits.
Deer creek is one of the largest affluents of the Platte, from the south, between
Sweet Water and Laramie. At this place it is about eight yards broad, with a
smooth and transparent current that sweeps over a bed of rock and gravel. Its
banks are well timbered with large cottonwoods, and present rich bottoms of
alluvial soil, very luxuriant in grass.
Even this early in the season, the fresh grass of the vicinity affords tempting
nourishment for our animals, and wishing to favor them as much as possible, we
have concluded to remain a short time.
During the succeeding interval we were variously occupied in hunting, rootdigging, and moccasin-making. The latter is a business in which every
mountaineer is necessarily a proficient, and rarely will he venture upon a long
journey without the appurtenances of his profession.
The process of shoe-making with him is reduced to its most simple form. He
merely takes two pieces of buffalo (or any other suitable) skin, each being a little
longer and wider than his foot, particularly towards the heel; these he folds
separately, and lays them together parallel with the turned edges; then, rounding
and trimming the sides, to render them foot-shaped, with an awl and the sinew of
buffalo or other animal, or small strips of thin deer-skin, ("whang,") he sews the
vamps from end to end, —then after cutting a tongue-like appendage in the
upper side, midway from heel to toe, and stitching together the posterior parts,
his task is done.
Having obtained a quantity of sap from a grove of box-elders near camp, we
found it a sweet and pleasant liquid, and not inferior to that of maple. Sugar might
be manufactured from it, with little trouble.
The leaves of this tree, as well as the general appearance of its wood, greatly
assimilate those of maple, and, independent of its bushy tops and stunted,
winding growth, it would be hard to tell the difference at a first glance.
Game was plenty on every side, both buffalo, deer, and elk, with some few bear.
The second day after our arrival, one of the latter, attracted by the scent of fresh
buffalo meat, ventured within gun-shot of camp. Instantly the balls of four rifles
were buried in his carcase. Aroused by this feeling salute, he rushed towards us
at the top of his speed, when our horses, affrighted at the strange appearance,
broke snorting away over the neighboring hills, and we ourselves took to trees as
fast as possible.
In the midst of this general consternation a pistol ball, fired by one of the party,
buried itself in the brains of our troublesome visitor and laid him prostrate.
He was one of a species common to the mountains, called the red bear, and
must have weighed four or five hundred pounds. The fat upon his back was full
three inches thick His skin when stretched would have compared in size to that of
a buffalo, and the claws of his feet were full three inches long.
At this season of the year, when these animals first leave their dens, they are
much the fattest, —a singular circumstance, if we remember the fact of their
remaining holed up for the entire winter, without eating!
After butchering the greasy victim, and bringing our erratic horses back to camp,
we regaled ourselves with an ample feast of bear's liver, heart, and kidneys,
basted with fat, —a dish that epicures might well covet. Then, filling a large
camp-kettle with portions of the "fleece" and ribs, we allowed it to boil till the next
morning, and thus prepared another delicious entertainment, such as is rarely
met with in any country other than this.
Bear meat, to be tender and good, should be boiled at least ten hours. This is
probably the most preferable mode of cooking it, though a roast of the article is
far from bad.
There are four several varieties of bear found in the Rocky Mountains and
countries adjacent, viz.: The grizzly bear, the black, the red, and the white.
Of these, the grizzly bear stands pre-eminent in ferocity and strength. He will
almost invariably flee at the sight or scent of a man, and seldom attacks any one
unless wounded. When shot, he generally runs at full speed towards the sound,
and woe to the unfortunate hunter who then comes in his way, unless fully
prepared for a deadly encounter!
This animal reigns prince of the mountains, and every other beast within his wide
realm acknowledges his supremacy.
Wolves and panthers dare not approach him, or disturb aught savoring of his
ownership. Even the carcase of his prey, covered with the earth and rock his
cautious instinct teaches him to heap upon it for preservation, is unmolested,
though hundreds of wolves and panthers might be starving around.
Buffalo dread his presence far more than the dangerous approach of the hunter,
and will sooner bring into requisition their swiftest powers of flight on such
occasions. With great difficulty a horse can be persuaded to go within any near
distance of one of them, even when led, and then he will quail and tremble in
every joint, from extreme terror.
In short, the grizzly bear stalks forth at pleasure, in his majesty and strength, lord
of the wild solitudes in which he dwells, and none dares oppose him.
Some writers assert that bears will not prey upon dead carcases, —this is
contrary to fact. I have often known them take possession of the carcases of
animals, even when nearly putrid, and remain until they were devoured.
They frequently kill buffalo, horses, and cattle to gratify their taste for animal
food, and, in such cases, always drag their prey to some convenient spot, and
perform the task of burial by heaping upon it piles of rock or earth, to a depth of
several feet, for protection against the voracity of other beasts of prey. It is not
uncommon, even, that they drag the entire carcase of a full-grown bull a distance
of several hundred yards, by the horns, for this purpose, so great is their strength
and so accute their sagacity.
CHAPTER XIV.
Desperate encounter with a grizzly bear, and extraordinary instance of suffering.
Close contest. A comical incident. Cross Platte. Cañon camp. Sage trees.
Mountain sheep, and all about them. Independence Rock; why so called, and
description of it. Devil's Gate. Landscape scenery.
THE adventure recorded in the preceding chapter called forth the rehearsal of
many thrilling stories of frightful encounter with that proud monarch of the
mountains, the grizzly bear. Two or three of these it may not be uninteresting to
transcribe.
Several years since, an old trapper by the name of Glass, with his companion,
while on an excursion, came upon a large grizzly bear.
Bruin, having received the salute of two rifles, as usual, rushed towards his
uncivil assailants, who broke from him with all possible despatch. But Glass,
stumbling, fell prostrate in his flight, and before he could recover his feet the
infuriated beast was upon him.
Now commenced a death-struggle. The pistols of the hunter were both
discharged in quick succession, —the ball of one entering the breast of his
antagonist, and that of the other grazing his back.
Smarting and maddened by the pain of additional wounds, the bleeding monster
continued the conflict with the fury of desperation, —tearing from the limbs and
body of the unfortunate man large pieces of trembling flesh, and lacerating him
with the deep thrusts of his teeth and claws.
Meanwhile the sufferer maintained, with his butcher-knife, an obstinate defence,
though with fast waning effort and strength. Finally, enfeebled by the loss of
blood, and exhausted from the extraordinary exertions of a desperate and
unequal contest, he was unable to oppose further resistance, and quietly
resigned himself to his fate.
The bear, too, with the thick blood oozing from his numerous wounds, and faint
from the many stabs among his veins and sinews, seemed equally in favor of a
suspension of hostilities; and, extending himself across the hunter's back, he
remained motionless for two hours or more.
But now another enemy commences an assault upon his vitals—that enemy is
death. In vain is defensive effort. In vain are all his struggles. He falls by the
hunter's side a lifeless corpse.
The setting sun had cast his lurid glare upon the ensanguined spot, as the
comrade of the miserable Glass ventured near to ascertain the result of the fierce
encounter.
There lay the body of his deserted friend, stretched out, apparently lifeless and
half-torn to pieces; and, by its side, lay the carcase of that enemy, which had
waged with it such murderous war, cold and stiffened in death!
Now, doubly terrified at his loneliness, but still governed by sordid motives, he
stripped the former of his arms and every other valuable, then no longer needed
(as he supposed) by their owner, and, mounting his horse, started immediately
for the nearest trading post.
On his arrival he recounted the particulars of the fatal occurrence, carefully
concealing, however, his own criminal conduct. The story was accredited, and
the name of Glass found place upon the long catalogue of those who had fallen a
prey to wild beasts and savage men.
Six weeks elapsed and no one thought of the subject of our sketch as among the
living. The general surprise, therefore, may be readily imagined, on opening the
fort-gates one morning, at finding before them the poor, emaciated form of a
man, half-naked, and covered with wounds and running sores, and so torn the
fleshless bones of his legs and thighs were exposed to view in places! and how
this astonishment was heightened on recognizing the person of Glass in the illydefined lineaments of his countenance—the very man so long regarded as the
inhabitant of another world! A veritable ghost suddenly appearing upon the spot
could not have occasioned greater wonder!
But, sensations of pity and commiseration quickly succeeded those of surprise,
and the unhappy sufferer was conveyed within doors and received from the
hands of friends that careful attention his situation so much required.
The story of his misfortunes was thrillingly interesting. When left by his
companion for dead, he was in a state of unconsciousness, with scarcely the
breath of life retained in his mangled body. But, the soft nightwind stanched his
wounds, and a slight sleep partially revived him from his death-like stupor.
With the morning, the slight sensations of hunger he began to experience were
appeased from the raw flesh of the carcase at his side; and, thus strengthened,
by a slow and tedious effort he was enabled to reach a near stream and quench
his thirst. Still further revived, he again crawled to the carcase at the demands of
appetite.
In this manner he continued for three days, when the putrescent corpse
compelled him to abandon it.
Then it was he commenced his tedious return to the fort, (some seventy miles
distant,) which he performed during an interval of forty successive days! The
whole of this long stretch he crawled upon his hands and knees, —subsisting, for
the meanwhile, only upon insects, such as chance threw in his way, but passing
most of the time without one morsel with which to appease the gnawings of
hunger or renew his wasted strength.
Yet, great as were his sufferings and intolerable as they may seem, he survived
them all, and, by the kind attention of friends, soon recovered.
He still lives in the town of Taos, New Mexico, and frequently repeats to
wondering listeners the particulars of this terrific and painful adventure.
One of our party, whose right hand was much disabled from the effects of a
wound, now told his story.
For several years succeeding his first arrival in the Rocky Mountains, he had
permitted no opportunity of killing any one of the various species of bear,
common to these regions, to pass unimproved. Never did he think of fearing
them, and was always the last to retreat in case of a charge.
When a bear appeared within any reasonable shooting distance of our hunter, it
almost invariably fell a victim to his unerring aim. But, erelong, this spirit of bolddaring proved the source of lasting regret to its possessor.
On the occasion alluded to, having shot at one of these animals, contrary to his
usual good luck, he only wounded it.
The bear in turn now became the assailant, but received the contents of two
pistols before it had time to advance far. Our hunter at this crisis sprang to a
neighboring pine, which he commenced climbing. His pursuer, gaining the tree
almost as soon, likewise began its ascent.
Here occurred a struggle between them — the man to force his way upwards,
and the bear to prevent him. The former, drawing his butcher-knife, thrust it at the
eyes and nose of his antagonist. Not fancying such pointed hints upon a delicate
subject, Mr. Bruin caught hold of the hunter's hard, and, as an earnest of deep
sensitiveness, crushed it between his teeth, —nor even then relinquished the
gripe. Transferred to the left hand, the knife continued its work, till the sickening
beast commenced sliding downward—dragging the poor hunter also to the
ground. Both struck at the same time; but, at that instant, the knife of the latter
pierced the heart of his antagonist, and laid him dead at his feet.
The unfortunate man, however, lost two of his fingers in the affray, and his hand
was otherwise so much injured he has never since recovered its use.
Another story related at the same time, though not possessing the deep and
thrilling interest of the preceding ones, partakes a little of the ludicrous, and will
doubtless amuse the reader.
The narrator a while since formed one of a trapping party, with which he
proceeded to the Utah country. While there, on a certain occasion, having set his
traps over night, he returned to examine them the next morning, in quest of
beaver, and, to his surprise, one of them was missing. After cautiously examining
the premises, under the impression that some lurking Indians had stolen his trap
with its contents, he noticed the tracks of bears, near by, which served at once to
unravel the whilom mystery of its disappearance.
He new began to muse upon his loss, as, without the missing trap, his set would
be rendered incomplete, and, under present circumstances, the want of the thing
was more than the worth of it. While thus ruminating, a slight noise, among
neighboring cherry-bushes and cottonwood, caught his ear, which sounded like
some one beating with two sticks.
This induced him to approach for the purpose of ascertaining the cause, when an
opening revealed to view Mr. Bruin seated upon a log and holding to his face the
missing trap, tightly clasped to his fore-paw.
The bear appeared to be regarding the strange instrument with close attention,
as if to study into the principles of its construction;—now gazing at it endwise,
then bringing its side in close proximity to his eyes; then turning it over to
examine the opposite one;—now, he would essay its strength, and lightly taps it
upon the log. But this is a painful operation, he relinquishes it, and resumes his
former grotesque movements.
Watching this curious performance, the trapper could scarcely retain his gravity,
or master his fondness for the ludicrous sufficiently for the intended shot. He did,
however, and the comedy was suddenly transformed to a tragedy, by leaving its
actor struggling in death.
A light fall of snow during the last of our stay at Deer creek, rendered the ground
quite muddy and soft; notwithstanding which we resumed our course early in the
morning of the fourth day.
Continuing on, a ride of thirty miles brought us to the place where the Oregon
trail crosses the Platte; and, after fording the river, we encamped upon the
opposite side.
The stream, at this point, is about three hundred yards from bank to bank, and, at
the time of our crossing it, swimming deep for a small portion of the way.
In ordinary stages, the water is but little over three feet deep, and the ford
perfectly safe and practicable. The partial melting of the mountain snows had
increased the size and velocity of its current, and rendered our passage slightly
dangerous and difficult. The bed appeared to be rocky, and in some places
rough, —requiring much caution in crossing waggons, to prevent them from
overturning.
On the third day following, we arrived at another remarkable cañon, after
travelling a distance of thirty-five or forty miles. Here, finding large numbers of
mountain sheep, we were induced to remain a short time.
Our course for most of this distance was confined to the valley of the Platte, on
account of the greater supply of wood found upon its banks.
Towards noon of the first day, we passed a point, called the "Red Buttes," at
which the river cuts its way through a lofty ridge of hills. This passage left a
considerable bank upon both sides, shut in by abrupt walls of red argillaceous
sandstone, towering to the height of several hundred feet.
The soil was generally a mixture of clay and sand, and, in some places, afforded
a reddish loam which appeared to be very rich.
A short ride from the "Red Buttes" took us across a beautiful stream, with a broad
bottom, well timbered with cottonwood.
Large herds of buffalo were continually in sight upon the whole route.
Several miles previous to reaching the cañon, my notice was first attracted to the
extraordinary size attained by the wild sage; it having merged its shrub-like
appearance into that of trees varying from five to ten feet in height and from
twenty to twenty-five inches in circumference at the root.
The magnificent dimensions of this herb are retained for a large extent of territory
to the south and west of this vicinity. It is frequently made use of for fire-wood,
and the prairies, in many places, are covered with beautiful groves of it, —
perfuming the atmosphere and revelling in perennial verdure.
The cañon before referred to, is caused by the river passing through a chain of
hills, for a reach of nearly half a mile.
The current is here shut in by banks of perpendicular rock, four or five hundred
feet high, which sometimes overhang it, and leave a narrow space of scarcely
two hundred feet for its bed. These consist principally of white cretaceous
sandstone, soft and friable, and frequently present to view the appearance of
regular mason-work.
During our stay we succeeded in killing five mountain sheep. Some of these were
very large and quite fat.
The flesh of this animal is equal in flavor to that of buffalo. It is generally in good
order, tender and sweet, and slightly assimilates our common mutton in taste.
The habits and appearance of mountain sheep resemble those of no other
animal.
They select for their favorite habitation the rugged fastnesses of wild and
inaccessible mountains. In the cold of winter, they descend to some of the
numerous valleys that so beautifully diversify the scenery of these regions, where
the verdure of spring so rarely fades; and, as the warm season advances, they
commence their return towards the lofty snow-peaks, keeping even progress with
spring and fresh flowers along the mountain-sides.
Theirs is a life of unbroken spring-beauty and grandeur are their dwelling place,
—and, 'mid the awe-inspiring sublimity of nature's works, is their home. They
gambol upon the fearful verge of the steep cliff, or climb its perpendicular sides,
bidding defiance to all pursuers. There, secure from enemies, they rear their
young, and teach them to leap from crag to crag in mirthful gaiety, or traverse the
dizzy heights in quest of the varied sweets of changeful spring.
These animals are remarkably acute of sight, and quick of scent and hearing.
The least noise or tainture of the air excites their attention and places them
instantly upon the alert. Mounting upon some high rock, they will stand for hour's
in the same posture, gazing in the direction of the fancied danger. If fully satisfied
of its reality, they abandon their position for another and a safer one, high among
more rugged peaks, and often beyond the possibility of offensive approach. Their
hue is so akin to that of the rocks which grace their range, they are with difficulty
identified when standing motionless, and the hunter is constantly liable to
mistake the one for the other.
In size the mountain sheep is larger than the domestic animal of that name, and
its general appearance is in every respect dissimilar—excepting the head and
horns. The latter appendage, however, alike belongs to the male and female.
The horns of the female are about six inches long, small, pointed, and somewhat
flat, —but those of the male grow to an enormous size. I have frequently killed
them having horns that measured two feet and a half or three feet in length, and
from eighteen to nineteen inches in circumference at the base.
These ponderous members are of great service to their owner in descending the
abrupt precipices, which his habits so often render necessary. In leaping from an
elevation he uniformly strikes upon the curve of his horns and this saves himself
from the shock of a sudden and violent concussion.
The color of these animals varies from a yellowish white, to a dark brown, or
even black. A strip of snowy whiteness extends from ham to ham, including the
tail, which is short and tipped with black.
Instead of wool, they are covered with hair, which is shed annually. Their cry is
much like that of domestic sheep, and the same natural odor is common to both.
It is extremely difficult to capture any of them alive, even while young, —and it is
next to impossible to make them live and thrive in any other climate than their
own. Hence, the mountain sheep has never yet found a place in our most
extensive zoological collections.
Remaining three days at this place, we were again en route, and, bearing to the
right, passed over a ridge of rough, rocky summits, and struck the valley of the
Sweet Water. Continuing up the latter, a short ride brought us to the vicinity of a
noted landmark of the country, known as Independence Rock, where we
encamped.
The soil of the river bottoms is good, but the adjoining prairies are sandy and
somewhat sterile.
The distance from this to the cañon is not far from twenty-three miles.
Independence Rock is a solid and isolated mass of naked granite, situated about
three hundred yards from the right bank of the Sweet Water. It covers an area of
four or five acres, and rises to a height of nearly three hundred feet. The general
shape is oval, with the exception of a slight depression in its summit where a
scanty soil supports a few shrubs and a solitary dwarf-pine.
It derives its name from a party of Americans on their way to Oregon, under the
lead of one Tharp, who celebrated the fourth of July at this place, —they being
the first company of whites that ever made the journey from the States, via South
Pass.
The surface is covered with the names of travellers, traders, trappers, and
emigrants, engraven upon it in almost every practicable part, for the distance of
many feet above its base, —but most prominent among them all is the word
"Independence," inscribed by the patriotic band who first christened this lonely
monument of nature in honor of Liberty's birthday.
I went to the rock for the purpose of recording my name with the swollen
catalogue of others traced upon its sides; but, having glanced over the strange
medley, I became disgusted, and, turning away, resolved, "If there remains no
other mode of immortalizing myself, I will be content to descend to the grave
'unhonored and unsung."'
The day following, a heavy fall of snow and sleet forced us to remain in camp,
and the consequent muddiness of the route prolonged our stay still further.
The vicinity afforded an abundance of game and a sufficiency of dry fuel; it
would, therefore, have been folly in us to care for wind or weather, detracting as
did either so little from our comfort.
During this interval I rode into the prairie a short distance, in quest of game, and
struck the river a few miles above camp, at a place where the stream cuts its way
through a high ridge of hills, forming another cañon of three or four hundred
yards in length and about forty broad, called the Devil's Gate, as I afterwards
ascertained.
Its walls arose perpendicularly to a height of between four and five hundred feet,
and consisted of trap rock, sandstone, and granite.
Dismounting, I ascended to the summit, where a grand and picturesque scenery
burst upon the view.
Above, the broad valley of the Sweet Water stretched far away to the westward,
bounded—on either side by frowning mountains, that, towering to the height of
fifteen hundred or two thousand feet, present their snowy summits in proud
defiance of wind or storm, and laugh at the impotency of a summer's sun;—on
the south, shaking their piny tops in scornful derision; and, on the north, with
denuded crests of broken granite, challenging the lightnings of heaven and
wooing its loudest thunders;—while further along, the clouds played in humble
sportiveness around the base of the great chain dividing the waters of two
oceans, nor dared ascend its dizzy heights to range amid eternal snow.
Below, in silent grandeur, arose to view the granitic mass that responds to the
day-dawn of a nation's existence, surmounted by its lone pine, and bearing upon
its broad register the sculptured names of the audacious disturbers of its solitude;
and further yet, the parti-colored peaks of the Black Hills, now white with freshfallen snow, now darkened with clustering pines, seemed musing in modest
retirement; while far around, in every spot accessible to discriminating vision,
dense herds of grazing buffalo covered the prairie with their pall-like mantle of
countless numbers.
It was indeed a magnificent prospect, and needed only the garnishing hand of
spring to render it at as enchanting in loveliness as it was impressive in wild
sublimity.
CHAPTER XV.
Return route. Oregon trail from Independence Rock through the South Pass.
Cross the Sweet Water and Platte. Mountain Fowl. Journey up Medicine Bow.
Dangerous country. A fight with the Sioux. The "Carcague." A surprise. Visit to
the Crow village. Number and character of the Crow nation. Selling a prisoner for
tobacco. Description of Laramie Plains.
PREVIOUSLY to leaving this place, considerable discussion arose relative to our
future course. The proposition was to continue up the Sweet Water valley to the
dividing ridge at the head of Green river, and return by the same route; — versus
the suggestion to cross the Sweet Water and proceed up the Platte to the
confluence of a large tributary from the south; thence, keeping be the valley of
the latter stream as far as the Medicine Bow Mountains, return to the Fort by the
way of Laramie river.
The fast melting of the snow, and anticipated difficulties, not to say dangers,
consequent upon high water in the passage of creeks and rivers, influenced us to
adopt the latter as the most advisable course.
Such was the final decision, and, the men with me being familiarly acquainted
with every nook and corner of the adjacent country, I improved the opportunity to
elicit from them all possible information relative to the Oregon route from this
onward; and, never having personally travelled from Independence Rock to the
head of Green river, it may not be out of place to lay before the reader a succinct
statement of some of the items thus gleaned.
The distance from this point to the famous South Pass is but little over one
hundred miles. The trail follows the Sweet Water to its source, keeping the river
valley for most of the distance. This valley consists of an undulating prairie, (at
intervals rough,) varying in width from the narrow limits of a few yards to the
more ample dimensions of four or five miles.
Sometimes, the adjoining hills close in upon the river banks and force the trail
among their rugged windings. In one place the road leads over a high stretch of
table land for nearly a day's travel, when it again descends to the valley.
The stream, in places, is tolerably well timbered with cottonwood, oak, and
aspen, and rolls over a rocky bed, with a clear and swift current.
The distance through the pass is about fifteen miles, and the ascent and descent
are so gradual the traveller would scarcely notice the transition from the head of
the Sweet Water to that of the Colorado. The hills at this point are low, and the
face of the country rolling—but not rough, affording at all times a most excellent
waggon road.
On the morning of the fourth day, we accordingly retraced our course, and,
having traversed a rugged and hilly country for some ten or twelve miles, we
camped in a small open prairie at the mouth of the Sweet Water.
During our ride we noticed several large bands of wild sheep, at intervals, gazing
upon us from huge masses of granite that towered with isolated summits to a
frequent altitude of sixty or one hundred feet.
The next morning, we crossed the Sweet Water a little above its mouth.
The ford was quite feasible, the stream being some ten yards wide and three or
four feet deep, with a bed of sand and pebbles.
From this point, travelling up the Platte for about ten miles or more, we arrived
opposite the creek previously alluded to, and, crossing at a shoal place a short
distance above, camped in a grove of cottonwood and willows, at the delta
formed by the confluence of the two streams.
There are several bottoms of very rich soil in this vicinity; but back from the river
the country is rough and hilly.
Westward the Sweet Water mountains, distant some ten miles, showed their
craggy peaks, and to the north and east the piny crests of the Black Hills burst
upon the sight; while southward, a succession of high, rolling prairies opened to
view a variety of romantic and beautiful scenery.
We remained at this place the two following days, for the purpose of hunting.
Game of all kinds appeared in great abundance, particularly elk. At several points
among the willows near the river were noticed fresh signs of beaver, and among
the hills the recent marks of bear in digging for roots.
A large bird called the mountain fowl, quite common to these parts, was the
occasion of some little curiosity, being the first of its species I ever saw. This bird
is rather larger than our domestic hen, and of a grayish brown color. Little
accustomed to the presence of man, it easily falls a prey to the hunter. Its flesh is
tender and most excellent in flavor.
Having obtained a fresh supply of meat, we resumed our course.
Continuing up the right bank of the creek (which I have named Medicine Bow, for
lack of a better term) and travelling by easy stages four successive days, we
arrived at its head, —a distance of more than fifty miles above its junction with
the Platte.
Many beautiful bottoms skirted the banks of this stream, which were well
timbered with cottonwood, aspen, birch, willow, box-elder, and some few pines.
The soil is generally of a reddish loam, and the luxuriant size of the dead grass,
together with the rank verdure of the present season, gave evidence of its
richness and fecundity.
I was pleased to observe not a few wild flowers, of rare beauty, in full bloom,
lending their fragrance to the breath of spring, and blushing at the admiration
challenged by their loveliness.
On the right lay a broad expanse of undulating prairie, covered with stately
clusters of absinthe, and disclosing every variety of soil, from the rude sterility of
an African desert to the rich productiveness of a garden; — on the left, the
mountains, increasing in altitude, jutted their craggy sides in close proximity to
the creek—now disclosing immense piles of granite, with red argillaceous,
grayish micaceous, dark ferruginous, and white calcareous sandstone,
limestone, and coarse-grained conglomerates, naked and variegated with almost
every diversity of color, —and now, surmounted by stunted pines and cedars, or
towering balsam, hemlock and pinion; and in front, the lofty peaks of Medicine
Bow, rearing their snowy heads beyond the clouds, opposed an eternal barrier to
further prospect.
As we passed along, I noticed three or four small branches that emptied into the
creek from the opposite side, and, just before reaching our present encampment,
we crossed three others from the right, all of them well timbered and graced by
rich valleys and prairillons.
This section of country, being the great war-ground between the Sioux and
Chyennes on the one side, and the Snakes and Crows on the other, is
considered dangerous, particularly from May till November of each year. During
that time it is extremely unsafe for a white man to venture within its confines,
unless protected by a strong force.
A small creek at our right, became the scene of a bloody tragedy two months
subsequent to our visit.
Three trappers, with whom I became acquainted upon my return to the Fort,
tempted by the abundance of fur-bearing game common to the vicinity, came
here for the purpose of making a summer hunt. While successfully pursuing their
occupation, unsuspicious of immediate danger, they were suddenly surrounded,
early one morning, by a war-party of Sioux, whose first salute was a discharge of
fire-arms, accompanied by a shower of arrows and the sharp thunder of
deafening yells.
Two of them fell dead. The remaining one retreated to a hollow tree, close at
hand, into which he crawled; and, though severely wounded, maintained from it
an obstinate resistance till near sundown, —keeping at bay the whole host of
savage assailants, and thinning their numbers, one by one, with the deadly
discharge of his unerring rifle.
Six warriors lay stiffened in death, and as many more had felt the burning smart
of wounds, —one of the latter having had his tongue shot out, close to its roots!
— and still he continued the unequal contest.
His triumph would have been complete had not the remorseless crew, as a last
resort, set fire to the woods and burned him from the shell-like fortress from
which they could not drive him.
He fell with his companions, mingling his own blood with that of their murderers;
and the scalps of the three were treasured among the horrid trophies of savage
victory.
Of these unfortunate men, one, named Wheeler, was a Pennsylvanian; another,
named Cross Eagle, was a Swede; and the third, name not remembered, was a
native of France. They were men of noble hearts and much esteemed by all who
knew them.
In the neighborhood I noticed many indications of coal, of which there appeared
to be extensive beds, as well as iron and mineral salts.
Continuing on, a short ride brought us to the pass-trail, following which, after
travelling a few miles by a road intercepted by frequent ravines between a defile
of mountains, we were finally ushered into the broad prairie, opening eastward,
known as the Plains of Laramie.
The mountains upon both sides were heavily coated with snow, which intruded to
the trail, while groves of pine and aspen relieved the eye in scanning their rough
escarpments.
The prevailing rock appeared to be a compact red granite, with occasional strata
of sandstone.
While winding among the ravines and aspen groves, we obtained an indistinct
view of a strange-looking, dark-colored animal, that my companions pronounced
a "carcague."
Of the character, or even the existence of such a creature, I cannot speak from
positive knowledge—this, if one, not being sufficiently near for a scrutinizing
observation, and no other of its kind ever came in my way; but, in answer to
inquiries, I am enabled to give the following description, for the correctness of
which, however, I will not vouch, though, for my own part, inclined to accredit it.
The "carcague" is a native of the Rocky Mountains, and of a family and species
found in no other part of the world as yet known. He seems a distinct genus,
partaking the mixed nature of the wolf and bear, but is far more ferocious than
either.
His color is a jet black, hair long and coarse, and body trim and slender. His head
and neck are like those of a wolf, but his tail and feet assimilate he bear, and his
body presents the marked qualities and appearance of both.
In size, he is considerably larger than the common cur-dog, and is more agile in
his movements. Unlike the bear, he will not run from the presence or scent of
man, and regards the "lord of creation" with neither fear nor favor. Hence he is
looked upon as a creature much to be dreaded by all who are anywise
conversant with his character and existence.
The representatives of his family are seldom met with, which affords the principal
reason why so little, comparatively, is known of his nature and habits.
If the information contained in the above description, is correct, (aid that it is so, I
have not the least doubt,) the "carcague" presents, either the extraordinary
phenomenon of the creation of a new race of wild beasts, or, the living relics of
an order now almost extinct; and, whether he be tie one or the other, his
existence is vested with deep interest to all lovers of the marvellous.
An old trapper related the following story, soon after the incident above noticed,
which will serve to give some idea of this ferocious animal:
A party of hunters, at their night camp, were seated around a large fire, at whose
side were fixed several pieces of meat, en appolas, for the purpose of roasting.
All were waiting patiently the kind office of the fire in the preparation of their
longed-for suppers, when, attracted by the fumes of the cooking viands, a
"carcague" came bounding from the mountain-side, directly over their heads, and
made for the roasts, with which he disappeared before even a shot could be fired
in their defence.
Thus bold and daring is their nature, and so little is their regard for the presence
of man.
Bearing southward, in the course of a few miles we came to a large creek, and
camped early in the afternoon, near the base of a lofty mountain of the Medicine
Bow range.
In this vicinity were the relics of three Indians forts. On the banks of the stream
was an abundance of timber of various kinds; the bottoms were broad and of a
rich soil, shut in by abrupt acclivities that lead to the arid plains through which the
creek traces its way.
Game appeared in great abundance in all directions, and seemed more than
usually tame and accessible.
Soon after camping, three of us went in quest of a fresh supply of eatables, and,
towards night, returned with the choice portions of a buffalo and a black-tailed
dear.
The valley also afforded large quantities of wild onions, which were shooting forth
with singular luxuriance.
We passed the night in quiet slumber, neither of us dreaming of the possible
existence of human beings, other than ourselves, within a less distance than one
hundred miles.
In the morning, however, we were awakened by the wild yell of savages, and, on
looking to ascertain the cause, saw a dense throng of painted monsters
surrounding us, who were whooping, screeching, and dancing in a most terrific
and fantastic manner. Seizing our guns, we levelled at the foremost of them, who
immediately sheathed their bows and made the sign of friendship and their
nation.
They were Crows, and, having discovered us the afternoon before, now came for
a morning call.
The chief of the band bore the name of Little Robber, and was a large, portly,
well-made man, as, in fact, were all his party. He was recognized by one of us as
an old acquaintance, and was greeted as such, when several of his people came
forward to shake hands, and we were soon on most friendly terms.
They informed us, by means of signs, that they were advancing against the Sioux
and their village was encamped upon a neighboring creek, a little to the right, —
after which they insisted upon our accompanying them to it.
Not waiting for further ceremony, they drove up our horses and commenced
saddling them. Supposing it useless to resist, we yielded compliance to their
wishes, and, in about an hour's ride, came to the village. Here we were inducted
to the chief's lodge, where commenced a series of feastings peculiar to Indians
on occasions like this.
The Crows are a nation living upon the waters of the Yellow-stone, at a distance
of about four hundred miles west-northwest of Fort Platte. Their number
embraces not far from four hundred and fifty or five hundred lodges, being
something near four thousand men, women, and children.
Ten or twelve years since they were enemies to the whites, but, more recently,
have been on friendly terms.
They never kill or injure the white man who comes within their power, and rarely
take from him anything without returning for it an equivalent. For instance, —they
may take his robe, horse, or gun; but, in that case, they will return another robe,
horse, or gun; acting upon the principle that "exchange is no robbery," even
though it be compulsory.
Less contaminated by intercourse with the whites than most mountain tribes,
they will tolerate the importation of liquor among them upon no consideration, not
even by traders for their own individual use. Whenever it is ascertained that any
one in their vicinity, whether white man or Indian, is in possession of that article,
they take it from him, if necessary, by force and pour it upon the ground.
Their bitter hatred of this vile stuff, is said to have resulted in the following
strange manner:
The whites, as usual, came first among them bringing alcohol; and, at a feast
given to the chiefs, soon after, several of the latter became intoxicated from too
lavish potations of the new and curious drink.
In common with inebriates of civilized society, they acted very foolishly, and, on
appearing before their people, the drunken chiefs became the subject of ridicule.
This so shamed them, that, upon the return of sobriety, they could not be
persuaded to taste another drop, and thereafter made use of their united
influence to prevent its introduction and sale.
Ever since the above occurrence, alcohol has received, from the Crows, the
appellation of "Fool's Water," a term at once attesting their nice moral
discernment and good sense.
Several years since, a missionary, on visiting them, began through an interpreter
to rehearse the story how sin first came into the world, and how all men had
become bad—whether white or red.
Thus premised, he proceeded to explain the great truths of Christianity, and
averred that he had come to do them good, and to tell them how to be happy;
asserting that, unless they listened to him and worshipped the Good Spirit in the
manner he pointed out, they could never, at death, reach that happy country into
which good people alone find Admittance.
One of the chiefs upon this arose and made the following reply:
"My white brother is a stranger to us. He talks bad of us, and he talks bad of his
own people.
"He does this because he is ignorant. He thinks my people, like his, are wicked.
Thus far he is wrong!
"Who were they that killed the very good man of whom he tells us? None of them
were red men!
"The red man will die for good men, who are his friends;—he will not kill them!
"Let my pale-face brother talk to the white man—his own people—they are very
bad. He says, he would do us good! He does no good to chide us and say we are
very bad.
"True we are bad; and were we bad as the pale-faces it would become us to
listen to him!
"Would my brother do as good? Then, let him tell us how to make powder and we
will believe in the sincerity of his professions;—but let him not belie us by saying
we are bad like the pale-faces!"
These Indians rarely kill the women and children of an enemy when in their
power, and, in this particular, they show themselves unlike most of the wild tribes
found on the American continent.
They are a brave and noble people, prosecuting their endless hostilities against
the Sioux and Blackfeet, (the only nations with whom they are at variance,) not
so much to gratify an innate love for war, as from a just hatred of the meanness
of those they war against.
In the summer of 1842, a war-party of some two hundred Crows invaded the
Sioux country by way of Laramie pass, and penetrated as far as Fort Platte, and
beyond, in pursuit of their enemy.
A few miles above the Fort, having met with a lone French engagé, who was
rather green in all that pertains to Indians as well as some other things, they
began by signs to enquire of him the whereabouts of the Lacotas, (the sign for
them being a transverse pass of the right front-finger cross the throat.)
The poor Frenchman, mistaking this for the avowed intention of cutting his throat,
commenced bellowing a la calf, accompanying the music by an industrious
appliance of crosses in double-quick time—not forgetting to make use of sundry
most earnest invocations of the blessed Virgin to graciously vouchsafe to him
deliverance from impending danger.
The Indians, perceiving his strange conduct to be the result of fear, felt disposed
to have a little fun at his expense; so, mounting him upon a horse, they bound his
hands and feet and guarded him to a post of the American Fur Company as a
prisoner.
The Fort gates being closed against them, they demanded admittance on the
plea of wishing to trade.
"What would you buy ?" asked the commandant.
" Tobacco."
" What have you brought to pay for it ?"
" A white man."
" A white man ?" exclaimed the former; " at what price?"
" Oh, he is not worth much.
the warriors.
A plug of tobacco is his full value!" continued
The commandant now began to understand the joke; and, on recognizing the
prisoner as an employee of the other Fort, he told them they might possibly find a
market for him at the next post, but for his own part he was not disposed to
purchase.
The Indians then paraded around the Fort, and, after saluting its inmates with
three deafening whoops, proceeded at full charge towards Fort Platte.
When arrived, having prostrated two scaffolds of dead Sioux by the way, they
informed the person in charge, that they had brought back one of his men, and
claimed from him a plug of tobacco for their trouble. The circumstances attending
this request were of so comical a nature, the commandant felt disposed to humor
the joke, and gave the tobacco, upon which they immediately left in pursuit of
their enemies.
Having remained prisoners to the hospitality of these Indians for two days and a
half, we were at length permitted again to resume our journey.
Following the creek downwards for the two days next succeeding, and then
bearing to the left, after a ride of some twelve miles, we struck Laramie river at a
point which presented broad bottoms upon each side with an abundance of
timber; here we remained encamped till the subsequent day. In journeying thus
far, we passed over a sufficient extent of this broad expanse to give a general
description of it, from personal observation coupled with information derived from
others more experienced.
The Plains of Laramie are bounded north and east by the Black Hills, south by a
ridge of naked elevations, (composed of soft, arenaceous rock and terrene
limestone, embedded in marl and white clay, sterile and almost entirely destitute
of vegetation,) and west by the Medicine Bow Mountains.
This section includes an area one hundred and sixty miles long by seventy
broad.
The northern portion of it is a high plateau, almost destitute of springs or streams
of water, having a mixed soil of clay and sand, producing the grass and other
peculiarities incident to the grand prairies. Westerly, it is composed of red sand
and gravel, tolerably fertile and abundant in rocky fragments. The southern
portion is watered by a number of streams that rise in the Medicine Bow
Mountains and flow eastward; some of them pouring their waters into Laramie
river, and others losing themselves in the sand.
Towards the southwestern extremity, at the base of a lofty, isolated mountain, is
a salt lake of considerable dimensions. Several other lakes are also found
adjacent to the Medicine Bow Mountains, whose waters are strongly impregnated
with mineral salts.
In numerous places the surface, for small distances, is entirely naked and
whitened with saline efflorescences, that vie in their appearance with the
unspotted purity of fresh-fallen snow.
The Laramie river34 traces its way through the whole extent, —rising in the
southern extremity of the Medicine Bow Mountains and in the desolate highlands
that form the dividing ridge between its own and the waters of Cache a la
Poudre, and, after flowing a distance of some three hundred miles, discharges
itself into the Platte.
Upon this river and its branches are many beautiful bottoms of rich alluvial soil,
well adapted to cultivation, varying from five to ten miles in length, and from two
to five in breadth. These bottoms are to some extent well supplied with timber,
consisting of ash, elm, cottonwood, box elder, and willow, while the adjacent
mountains and hills afford pine, cedar, and balsam.
Of the various kinds of wild fruits and berries are found cherries, plums, currants,
gooseberries, service-berries, buffalo-berries, and some few grapes; among its
vegetables and roots are the bread-root, pomme blanc, onions, and commote.
Its prevailing rock is sandstone, (gray micaceous, brown argillaceous, red
granitic, and ferruginous,) limestone, (siliceous, testaceous, fossiliferous, and
terrene,) and red granite, with various conglomerates and heavy boulders of
fragmentary and transition rock.
Among the mineral productions incident to this region are salt, sulphur, soda,
magnesia, nitre, alum, coal, iron, copper, and gold, (the latter only in small
quantities.) Among its game is embraced nearly every variety found in countries
adjacent to the mountains.
The high prairies skirting the tributaries of the Laramie, though favored with many
valleys of fertile soil, are fit only for grazing purposes, on account of their general
aridity and scarcity of water; a fault, by the way, too common with a large
proportion of that vast extent of territory from the neighborhood of our western
frontiers almost to the very shores of the Pacific.
34
This river received its present name from one Joseph Laramie, a French trapper, who was killed near its mouth, several
years since, by the Indians.
CHAPTER XVI.
Sibille's-hole. Novel bitters. Chugwater. Gold. Curiosity. Affairs at the Fort.
Amusements. Gambling among squaws, and games played. Squaw dresses,
and riding fashion. Items of interest to the curious, proving the intercourse of the
ancient Romans with the people of this continent.
ON resuming our course, we soon after struck into a lodge-trail leading to the
Platte by way of Sibille's creek; —following this we travelled over an undulating
and sandy prairie for about ten miles, and came to a chain of rugged mountains,
bearing from north to south, through which we passed, by a tedious and
circuitous route, for a considerable distance, winding among rocks and narrow
defiles of naked hills, till we were finally ushered into a beautiful opening facing
the east, known as Sibille's-hole.
This valley is situated at the confluence of two small streams, heading in the
adjoining mountains, that unite to form Sibille's creek.
It is shut in upon three sides by lofty ridges, many hundred feet high, consisting
of immense piles of earthy limestone and marl, whose rough, naked sides,
ornamented with occasional dwarf-pines, cedars, or fruit-bearing shrubs, present
a wild and romantic scenery.
The valley is four or five miles in length and of variable width, with a strong, black
soil, affording a goodly supply of timber.
The season was further advanced in this than in any other place we had yet
visited. Several specimens of wild flowers were in full bloom, belading the soft air
with their sweetest odors. The grass too had attained a height of some three
inches, and furnished a most sumptuous entertainment for our jaded animals,
which they were nowise backward to accept.
Wishing to afford them an opportunity to recruit their strength, we remained
encamped the two following days.
During the interval we were successful in killing two very fat bulls, and were thus
enabled to renew the series of feasting which had graced the greater part of our
journey.
I here became for the first time acquainted with a kind of beverage very common
among mountaineers. The article alluded to may with much propriety be termed
"bitters," as the reader will readily acknowledge on learning the nature of its
principal ingredient.
It is prepared by the following simple process, viz: with one pint of water mix onefourth gill of buffalo-gall; and you will then have before you a wholesome and
exhilarating drink.
To a stomach unaccustomed to its use it may at first create a slightly noisome
sensation, like the inceptive effects of an emetic; and, to one strongly bilious, it
might cause vomiting;— but, on the second or third trial, the stomach attains a
taste for it, and receives it with no inconsiderable relish.
Upon the whole system its effects are beneficial. As a stimulant, it braces the
nerves without producing a corresponding relaxation on the cessation of its
influence; it also tends to restore an impaired appetite and invigorate the
digestive powers.
As a sanative, it tends to make sound an irritated and ulcerated stomach,
reclaiming it to a healthful and lively tone, and thus striking an effective blow at
that most prolific source of so large a majority of the diseases common to
civilized life.
From what I have seen of its results, I consider it one of the most innocent and
useful medicines in cases of dyspepsy, and will hazard the further opinion, that,
were those laboring under the wasting influences of this disease to drink gallbitters and confine themselves exclusively to the use of some one kind of diet,
(animal food always preferable,) thousands who are now pining away by
piecemeal, would be restored to perfect soundness, and snatched from the very
threshold of a certain grave which yawns to receive them!
Resuming our course, we continued down Sibillis creek to its junction with the
Laramie; then, following the course of that river, in the afternoon of the third day
we arrived at Fort Platte, after an absence of nearly two months, —having
travelled, in the interval, a distance of more than five hundred miles.
To give a general description of the country passed over during the concluding
part of our journey, would seem too much like a recapitulation of previous
remarks.
Our observations in reference to the river and creek bottoms, may be again
correctly applied; as may, also, those relative to the timber, and the geological
character of the adjoining prairies.
Several miles above the Fort we crossed the Chugwater, a large affluent of the
Laramie, from the right. This creek takes its rise in a wild and desolate section of
the Black Hills, near the head of Horse creek.
Thirty miles or more of its way is traced through a dreary wilderness of rock,
sand, and clay, almost entirely devoid of vegetation.
This region, it is said, affords gold; and, indeed, I have received frequent
assurances that that valuable metal has been procured, in small particles, from
among the sand of the creek-bed.
This region also claims many natural curiosities, of which I may take occasion to
speak more particularly hereafter; —one, however, situated upon Chugwater,
here seems more appropriately to demand a passing notice.
It consists of a columnar elevation of sandstone and marl, towering aloft to the
height of several hundred feet, like the lone chimney of some razed mansion, —
standing as the melancholy monument of the ruins that surround it.
This singular pile of rock and earth is nearly of a quadrangular form, quite regular
in its structure, and compares very nearly with the "Chimney" below Scot's Bluff,
in its general outlines. It stands within a short distance of the east bank of the
Chugwater, and gives the creek its present name.35
Our arrival at the Fort dated the 26th of April. The boat being completed, all
things, save the spring rise, were in readiness for the intended voyage.
This craft was put together in regular ship-shape, and finished in a workman-like
manner. She measured fifty feet keel by thirteen beam, and, without her lading,
drew but an inch and a half of water. Her intended burthen was between two and
three tons. While admiring her beauty and symmetry, little did I think of the
sufferings in store for me with her hardy crew.
Several important changes had taken place during our absence. The Fort with its
fixtures now claimed different owners, and was occupied by the men of two
companies besides our own. This swelled the present number to some forty or
fifty, and afforded quite a lively scene.
Now was an interval of leisure to all hands, and the time, unemployed in eating
and sleeping, was passed in story-telling, ball-playing, foot-racing, targetshooting, or other like amusements.
Several, forming themselves into a club for forensic debate, secured a prolific
source of entertainment, for the time being. A partner in one of the trading firms,
whose men were now stationed at the Fort, made himself quite conspicuous as a
participator in these discussions.
He was very self-important and conceited, and not a little ignorant withal, and
with regard to temperance, being uniformly about "three sheets in the wind," and
the other fluttering, his spoutings were an exhaustless fund of laughter.
At his request, in order to render the exercises more spirited, the merits of the
arguments presented were decided upon by a committee of three, and the
speakers decided against, sentenced to liquorize the club.
35
The word "Chug" implies chimney; of the derivation of the term, however, I am ignorant.
The treating, however, was always on one side; for, as the whole business was
an affair of sport, the committee of arbitration generally had this primary object in
view while pronouncing their decisions. When these were averse to our orator,
he of course paid the forfeit as an affair of debt; and when favorable to him, he
was equally prompt in proferring a common treat, exultatory upon his fancied
success.
My own part in this performance was that of a mere looker-on, but it required of
one more than my usual self-mastery, to retain his gravity under the potent
influences of so ludicrous an exhibition.
Other matters of interest, however, occurred at this time, and, as they tend to
throw some light upon Indian habits and customs, perhaps the reader will not
look upon it as altogether out of place for me to notice them.
At the two Forts in this neighborhood were some ten or twelve squaws, married
to the traders and engagés of the different fur companies. These ladies were in
the habit of meeting, occasionally, for gambling purposes. In this they acted as
systematically as the most experienced black legs of a Mississippi steamboat; if
they failed to play as high, it was only for the lack of means.
Ball-playing was one of the games upon which heavy bets were made. The
instrument used in this amusement consisted of two globular forms, about two
inches each in diameter, which were attached by a short string. The play-ground
was the open prairie in front of the Fort, and embraced an area of nearly a mile in
extent.
As the initiatory step, each party, composed of equal numbers, selected an equal
amount of valuables, consisting of beads, scarlet, vermilion, rings, awls, shells,
&c., which were placed in two piles about half a mile apart, and equidistant
between them was placed the ball. Each gamestress, armed with her club, then
repaired to the spot, and the opposing parties arrayed themselves, the one facing
the other with the ball between them. At a given signal they all strike — the one
party striving to propel it towards its own valuables, and the other to force it in a
contrary direction. The party propelling it to its own pile, wins, and becomes
entitled to both.
As success in this game depends more upon fleetness of foot than skill in
striking, a large party of squaws, thus engaged, opens to the beholder a rich
scene of amusement.
Another game is still more extensively practised among them. This is somewhat
upon the principle of dice, though different in its details.
Six plum-stones, smoothly polished, and marked with various parallel, triangular,
and transverse lines, are thrown loosely into a small, plate-like basket, around
which the players are seated with their stores of trinkets. The leader then
receives the basket in one hand, and, briskly moving it to change the position of
the dice, suddenly strikes it upon the ground, tossing the plum-stones from their
places and catching them in their descent.
The amount won depends upon the number of triangular and transverse lines left
uppermost.
The loser, having paid the forfeit, next takes the basket and describes the same
movements, receives her winnings in like manner, and returns it to her opponent,
—and so on alternately.
Much cheating and trickery are practised in this game.
The game of hand, for a description of which the reader is referred to a previous
marginal note, is also a favorite play with squaws as well as men. Large parties
of both sexes not unfrequently engage in this amusement, and many a poor
Indian loses his all by the operation.
Speaking of squaws reminds me of not having previously described their dress
and appearance.
The dress of a squaw is scarcely less simple than that of an Indian. Two pieces
of skin, sewed together in a bag-like form, (of sufficient size to envelope the body
from neck to knee, leaving an aperture for the former with the arms,) constitute
her gown, which is completed by two other pieces of skin sewed from neck to
waist so as to fall loosely upon the arms as far as the elbow; then, with leggins of
thin deer or antelope skin, garnished moccasins, and a painted robe, you have
before you the full rig of a mountain squaw.
Some of the younger ones, however, flaunt dresses quite tastefully ornamented,
with full capes and fringe-works, garnished with beads and porcupine-quills, that
present a wild, fantastic appearance, not altogether estranged to beauty.
A squaw prides herself much upon the number of rings in her ears and upon her
fingers, as well as the taste displayed in plaiting her hair and beautifying her face.
Women, in savage alike with civilized life, are vested with a good supply of pride
and vanity in their composition, —all, fond of show and gaudy equipage. But the
mountain squaw, next to ornaments, displays the most vanity in the gay
caparison of her riding horse, and the splendid trappings of his saddle. Both of
them are fancifully garnished with beads and paint, and bestrung with various
trinkets, that impart a tinkling sound, as they strike each other at every
movement, and fill the rider's ears with that wild and simple music so consonant
to her feelings and thoughts.
Men and women practise the same mode of riding, (astride,) and a squaw is as
much at home on horseback as the most experienced cavalier.
This fashion is, properly considered unbecoming for ladies of civilized countries;
yet, improper as it may seem, it is quite common with the ladies of New Mexico.
As my subsequent travels in the countries bordering upon the Rocky Mountains
preclude the opportunity of speaking connectedly of the Sioux nation, I cannot
forego the present occasion for presenting to the curious, some few items
relative to the language of these Indians, that tend to shed no small amount of
light upon the ancient history of the American continent.
There are several remarkable peculiarities in the Sioux language, that cannot fail
to prove interesting and satisfactory, so far as they go, to all lovers of antiquarian
research.
The first of these consists in the striking similarity observable in its general
structure to that of the ancient Romans, when the two are carefully compared
with each other.
In regard to the arrangement of words and the construction of sentences, they
are both governed by the same fixed laws of euphony, irrespective of the relative
position otherwise maintained by the different parts of speech. It will be observed
that the leading purpose of the speaker of either language is, to avoid a harsh
and inharmonious intermingling of words, such as would grate upon the ear when
pronounced in an abrupt connection; and, by so doing, to give a smooth and
musical turn to the expression of his ideas.
The few brief sentences, hereto subjoined in the same order as they occur in the
original, accompanied by the translation of each word as it appears, will serve to
illustrate this matter more fully:
LATIN
SIOUX
Invictum animi robur ostensit.
Tepe nea tour toocta?
Invincible of mind strength he displayed.
Lodge your own where is it?
Omnia delicarum instrumenta e
Mea warchee muzarka nea tour.
All of delicacies the intruments from
I want gun your own.
castris ejecit.
Kokepa warneche wecharcha ha,
camp he cast.
Afraid nothing the man is.
Non amo nimium diligentes.
Minewarka appello warktashne ha
Not I love overmuch the careful.
Medicine water I say not good is.
A mere glance at the foregoing will at once show the constructional similarity
between the two; and, to illustrate the proposition still farther, I here subjoin yet
other proofs of a more important relationship:
LATIN
SIOUX
Appello, (pres. ind., 1st per. sing.; inf.
appellare,) I declare, I proclaim.
Appello, I declare, I proclaim, I tell, I make
known
Bestia, a wild beast.
Beta, a buffalo.
Coca, uncertain, ambiguous, confused, rash.
Ceicha, bad, disorderly, unsound.
Cogor, one who collects, brings together,
compels, forces, or heaps up.
Cogor, a maker of anything, a manufacturer,
one who produces a thing by an ingenious
arrangement of materials.
Mea, (meus, a, urn,) of or belonging to me.
Mea, I, myself, me.
Mena, a narrow sharp fish.
Mena, a knife.
Ne, (this when affixed to a word or a sentence
gives it a negative signification,) no, not.
Ne, (this word is used precisely the same as in
Latin, and has a similar meaning,) not.
Papa, rare, excellent, wonderful.
Papa, meat, flesh used for food.
Pater, father.
Pater, fire.
Pes, the foot.
Pea, the foot.
Taurus, a bull.
Tau, (or tah,) a bull.
Tepor, warmth.
Tepe, a lodge.
Tuor, (tui, tutus sum,) to look, to see.
Tula, (astonishment,) look! see there!
I might pursue this comparison to a yet greater extent, were my knowledge of
Sioux sufficiently full and critical for the task, (for I have a firm confidence that
many other similarities might be pointed out, quite as glaring in their character as
any of the above;) but, enough, I trust, has already been said to fortify the
position so largely warranted by the premises, to wit: that in former ages the
Romans maintained a foothold upon the American continent, and had intercourse
with this nation, either by arms or by commerce.
The argument drawn from the foregoing is still further strengthened, when we
take into consideration the fact, that language is constantly varying in its form,
and changing the meaning and pronunciation of its words, as time progresses.
To exemplify this more clearly and forcibly, let the reader compare the works of
standard English authors of the present day with those of the like not more than
five hundred years since, and he will readily acknowledge the palpable
indications of progressive change.
If so short an interval has produced a transformation so bold in a written
language, what might we look for in one spoken only?
But, an interval of three times five hundred years has passed since the Romans
and the Sioux held intercourse with each other, and we yet find the general
structure of the two languages strikingly similar, and several of their words
identical in meaning and pronunciation! And, though the latter observation fails in
some cases, even this, so far from proving anything averse to the position before
assumed, serves to strengthen it.
The word pater, for instance, pronounced alike in both languages, differs in
signification; being used in the one to imply father, in the other fire. This apparent
discrepancy of meaning may be explained in a few words. The Sioux are
accustomed to venerate the sun as one of the more especial manifestations of
the Divine Essence, who is regarded as the FATHER or creator of all things; and
it, being the great source of light and heat, is naturally looked upon as an
immense body of fire. Thus, in the course of ages, the term became perverted in
its meaning and application, and, instead of being used to express the sun, or
Great Spirit, the father of all, it now only implies the simple element of fire, an
emanation from the sun.
So in relation to the Latin word tepor, warmth, and the Sioux word tepe, a lodge.
The lodge is employed in winter to retain the heat within itself, and exclude the
cold air; nor is it wonderful that, in the progress of years, the term tepor, or tepe,
should become the only one by which a lodge is known.
The word mena, is also pronounced the same in both, though different in its
signification; meaning, in Latin, a narrow sharp fish, and, in Sioux, a knife. In
explanation of this, I would barely refer to the similarity of shape between a knife
and a narrow sharp fish.
The relationship disclosed between these two languages is seemingly too close
and significant to be attributed to mere chance or accident, and can be in no
other way satisfactorily accounted for, than by admitting the correctness of the
premises before quoted.
But this position, curious as it may seem to some readers, and impregnable as it
must doubtless prove, has other weapons to protect it at command; and, ere
dismissing the subject, I will briefly notice some of them.
It is by no means a conjecture of recent origin, that the ancient Romans did
actually colonize portions of the American continent. The industrious researches
of antiquarians have long since brought to light many items which prove and
strengthen it, though none of them so tangible and obvious as those previously
noticed.
Several obscure hints of the existence of extensive Roman colonies planted
westward of the Pillars of Hercules, (doubtless alluding to the American
continent,) have been detected in the writings of ancient authors yet extant; but
still further proof is afforded in the relics of temples, cities, roads, and fortified
camps, long since discovered in Peru, Mexico, and the United States, which
strongly savor of Roman origin.
The ancient works at Marietta, Ohio, have been regarded, by not a few, as the
offspring of Roman industry and military science, —and various other remains,
that signalize the Mississippi valley, point quite plainly to this nation for a
parentage. But a proof; still more conclusive than any yet adduced, is afforded by
the discovery of a genuine Roman coin, in the State of Missouri, several years
since. Taking all these corroborative circumstances in connection, the fact that
Roman colonies did exist, to some extent, upon this continent in past ages, must
be regarded as placed beyond successful controversy.
CHAPTER XVII.
Singular exhibition of natural affection. Embark for the States. Scarcity of
provisions and consequent hardship and suffering. Extraordinary daring of
wolves. Difficulties of navigation. Novel diet. Fishing. A fish story, and another to
match it. A bull story. Hard aground and dismal situation. Extreme exposure.
Cold, hungry, and wet. Again afloat. Re-supply of provisions. Camp on fire. A
picture of Platte navigation. Country north of river. Adventure with a bull. Indian
benevolence. Summary of hardships and deprivations. Abandon voyage.
SOON after our return, one of the hunters came in from a short excursion
followed by a buffalo calf, which appeared as tame and docile as if always
accustomed to the presence of man.
This incident first brought to my knowledge a remarkable peculiarity in the nature
of these animals, —viz: the strength of affection existing between the mother and
her offspring.
The buffalo will never desert her calf, except in cases of imminent danger, and
then, never for a long time;—she is certain to return promptly in search of it, even
at the hazard of her own life. The calf, on the other hand, exhibits an equal, or
rather superior, love for its mother.
If she, to whom he owes his birth, falls a prey to the relentless hunter, he deserts
her not, but lingers near her lifeless carcase, till the butcher-knife performs its
office, and the reeking flesh belades the pack-horse;—nor then, even, does he
leave her.
As the honored relics are borne away, he not unfrequently follows on, mournfully,
regardless of aught else, as if saying, "Where thou goest let me go, and now thou
art dead, I would live no longer." There is something touchingly beautiful in such
exhibitions of natural affection on the part of dumb brutes.
May 7th. Availing ourselves of a slight rise of water, we embarked on our
meditated voyage to the States.
The boat was freighted with some sixty packs36 of robes, and provisions for four
weeks. A barge belonging to another company, also in readiness, started with us,
and we all flattered ourselves with the hope of a speedy and pleasant trip.
The two boats numbered a united crew of eleven men, —mine consisting of five,
and that of our consort counted six.
36
A pack of robes generally embraces ten skins, and weighs about eighty pounds.
Slipping cable, we glided midway of the stream, and gave a parting salute to the
friends who lined the shore, accompanied by a loud hurra and waving of hats,
deeply responded to by them, —and even tears coursed their way a down the
dusky visages of our voyageurs, when mindful of the fate separating them—
perhaps forever!
The crews now struck up a merry song, while the dripping oars, as they spurned
the crystal waters, responded their time in measured strokes.
As we passed swiftly along and were fast receding from within hailing distance of
the Fort, an old mountaineer, who stood gazing upon us, exclaimed, "Ah, boys;
you can sing now, but your tune will be altered ere-long!"
This strange announcement, though a riddle at the time of its utterance, soon
began to more than verify itself; and often did we repeat the remark, "Well, sure
enough, our tune has changed."
Moving along prettily during the day—sometimes floating with the current then
again plying oars, —we reached the mouth of Horse creek; and, passing on a
short distance, lay to for the night.
The day following we again pushed off; but, after proceeding ten or twelve miles,
the water became so shallow, we were compelled to lay by to await a further rise,
and struck camp in a small grove of cottonwood upon the right bank of the Platte,
a short distance above Scott's Bluff. Here we remained for some two weeks.
The crew of our consort being poorly supplied with provisions, we divided our
own with them, and, at the expiration of a few days, were left entirely destitute.
From this on, we were dependent solely upon such game as chance threw in our
way, —sometimes starving for two or three days, and then feasting for a like
interval, upon the products of successful hunting.
To us was a tedious lot, —there being no game in the country, save perchance a
few straggling bulls, and they rarely within less distance than ten or twelve miles.
Our hunting excursions often led further than that, and when we were so
fortunate as to kill, the proceeds were borne upon our backs to camp. We
became so accustomed to packing, in this manner, it was thought no extra
burthen for an individual to carry upwards of a hundred pounds of fresh meat at a
single load, some ten or twelve successive miles, over an open, sandy prairie,
and beneath the scorching rays of an almost vertical sun.
So far from regarding it a task, we esteemed it a pleasure, and were glad to
appease the cravings of appetite even at so small a sacrifice of comfort and
convenience.
The reason for the scarcity of all kinds of game in the vicinity of the river at this
time, was the recent burning of the prairie upon both sides, for many miles back,
leaving not even the vestige of vegetation for the subsistence of any
graminivorous animals.
This we found to be the case nearly the entire distance to the forks.
During the latter part of our stay at this camp, it rained almost incessantly; we
also encountered a severe snow storm.
The winds were usually high, and frequently blew with hurricane-violence.
A pack of hungry wolves, attracted by the scent of camp, were our regular
nocturnal visitors, and proved a constant source of annoyance. On one occasion
they carried off a bake-kettle to a distance of several hundred yards;—at another
time, they took away a tin-pan, which we never afterwards recovered;—and,
stranger yet, one night these piratical pests stole a fur cap from off my head while
I was sleeping, and in the morning, after a diligent search, no trace of it could be
found.
The river having slightly risen, we again loosed cable, and, after toiling all day,
and tugging with might and main, by hand-spikes and levers, — twisting,
screwing, and lifting, now in water up to our necks, and now on dry sand-bars,
we succeeded in dragging, or rather carrying, our craft for a distance of about
five miles, and again lay by for four succeeding days to await a still further rise.
Upon the opposite side of the river was a bald-eagle's nest, with two half-grown
fledglings. One of our party, ascending the tree, captured the young ones, and
we had a fine meal from their carcases. A wood-duck's nest, containing some
twelve eggs, near by, afforded a seasonable repast, and, in hunting for game, we
came upon the nest of a wild goose, as well as those of numerous ravens among
the neighboring cottonwoods and willows, which we subjected to such forced
contributions as appetite demanded.
A portion of the interval was employed in fishing, but with poor success, the fish
of the Platte being nearly all of them small, and not very plentiful even, at that.
An old Franco-Canadian, of our crew, here favored us with, perhaps, a little the
biggest fish story of any told at the present day.
He had been down the Missouri on several occasions in boats connected with
the fur trade. On one of these voyages, while in the act of reaching over the boatside for a drink of water, he dropped his cup, which immediately sank to the
bottom of the river and was lost.
Three years afterwards he again passed the same place, with hooks and lines
attached to the boat-stern for the purpose of catching fish as he glided along.
A large cat-fish, attracted by the tempting bait borne upon the hook, greedily
swallowed it, and, in a trice, found himself translated to a new and strange
element.
The creature was so heavy, it took two men to pull him into the boat, while his
gigantic proportions astonished all beholders.
But the most surprising thing was revealed on opening him; — there, snugly
stowed away in one corner of the monster's capacious maw, reposed the
identical cup our voyageur had lost, three years before, with his name and the
date marked upon it!
"Pooh! Gumbo," said an old sailor, "I can beat such stories as that, all day."
“Why, fellow, on my last trip from Liverpool to New York, a shark followed the
ship for a long time, picking up such bits of bread and meat as were thrown into
the sea.
“Our steward was a very careless fellow, and, in shaking the tablecloth, he would
frequently drop overboard the knives and forks and spoons, and received from
the captain several floggings on that account. He was even accused of stealing
them, but strongly protested his innocence of the latter charge.
"Among our passengers was an old whaleman, who, being very expert in the use
of the harpoon, took it into his head one day to victimize the shark. After several
ineffectual attempts, he finally succeeded in forcing his instrument through the
monster's vitals, and drew the lifeless carcase alongside.
"The piratical cruiser was so thundering big, it took eight men with tackles to raise
it on board; —it must have weighed at least sixteen hundred pounds! The body of
the greedy creature was then laid upon deck, and on opening it all were
astonished! What do you think was found, Gumbo?"
"Sacre sharp! Certes me tink dey fine de spoon, de fork an de knife Him shark no
follow de ship for nottin."
"Well, boys, what do you all suppose was found?"
"Indeed, we couldn’t say."
"Guess,"
"The knives and spoons, of course.'
"You are wrong, to a man."
"What, in the name of reason, could it have been? Do tell—we give it up."
"Hang me, if you aint a bright set of fellows!—Can't guess a thing so easy? Why,
if I must tell you—'twas guts, —only guts— nothing in the world but guts!"
"Look here, Jack," said one of the listeners, advancing towards him hat in hand,
"you can take this. We'll be quite likely to remember hereafter that fish generally
carry their guts inside!"
The old Frenchman looked rather crest-fallen at the curious manner in which his
extraordinary fish story had been matched, —but felt little disposed to yield his
laurels without an effort to retrieve them, —so, calling to aid his recollections of
the marvellous, he again commenced.
Several years ago, while in the employ of the American Fur Company, our hero
and another man were sent expresses to a distant post. It was winter; and they
travelled on foot, depending for daily subsistence upon such game as chance
brought in their way. Their course lay through an open and cheerless prairie,
covered with snow, and the journey occupied nearly a month.
Having been en route some five or six days, their ammunition began to fail in the
item of lead, —and only two bullets were left. Their condition now became
extremely desperate, as there was no way of procuring a re-supply, —and
anticipated starvation stared them in the face.
Determined to eat as long as the means of subsistence remained, their last balls
were shot away in killing a buffalo bull. After furnishing themselves from his
carcase with a large supply of meat for present and future use, our hero
proceeded to cut a few locks of hair from off the creature's head, for the purpose
of stuffing his moccasins.
"Bon Dieu! Vat you tink me fine? You no can tell all day! Me no ask you guess.
Bon Dieu! c'etre admirable. Me fine forty ballas, in he head. Me get'em out. Sacre
tonnerre! den me had him sufficient la poudre and la ballas for de route! No go
hungry une leetil bit!"
On the fifth day subsequent, we again launched forth into the stream, and after a
series of most extraordinary exertions, (being obliged to lighten our boat several
times, by carrying its loading on shore, and reloading as often, thus to enable us
to lift it over sand-bars,) we succeeded in getting it some three miles, and finally
became safely moored in the middle of the river, from which it was impossible to
extricate ourselves either by going backwards, forwards, or sidewise—with or
without a cargo.
Here we remained for three days, and experienced, during the interval, a
continuous fall of rain and sleet, which rendered the weather dismal and our own
situation disagreeable in the extreme.
A cache of liquor having been made, fifteen or twenty miles distant, by a trader
connected with our consort, a month or two previous, unforbidding as was the
weather, the crew could not rest content until the hidden treasure was among
them.
Improving the opportunity presented by a slight suspension of the storm, one
morning two of them started to procure it. Soon after it commenced snowing and
raining, accompanied by a fierce, cutting wind and all the withering bleakness of
a winter's blast.
Still keeping on, however, they obtained the cache, and returned with it towards
the boat.
But night shut in upon them by the way, and a thrice dreary night it was. Being
too drunk to navigate, they lost their course and were forced to camp in the open
prairie, without wood or aught else of which to build a fire, or even a robe to
cover or a rock to shelter them from the chill wind and peltings of the pitiless
storm.
Half-frozen with cold and wet to the skin, they lay upon the muddy ground and
passed the interval, not in sleep, but in a state of drunken stupor, produced by
inordinate draughts upon the contents of their keg.
On the next morning they reached the boat, —a beautiful looking couple, as
might well be supposed! Covered with mud from head to foot, their clothes were
wringing wet, and their faces bloated and swollen almost to twice their natural
size. So complete was the transformation, they were scarcely recognizable as
the same persons.
But, regardless of hardship and suffering, they stuck to the liquor-keg and
brought it with them as proof of their triumph.
And now commenced a scene of drunken revelry, which, despite my efforts to
prevent it, soon communicated itself to both crews, and continued without
intermission till the stock on hand was exhausted.
The lack of a fire by which to warm ourselves, contributed materially to the
misery of our present condition; there being no wood procurable for that purpose
within five or six mikes of either shores and having none on board, we were
compelled to endure the dreary interval as best we could.
But another evil came pressing upon our already heavy load through the entire
exhaustion of provisions, and the last of our stay was made twice forlorn by cold
and fasting.
The gloomy reality of this situation may be thus briefly summed up; We were fast
aground in the middle of a river, three-fourths of a mile from either shore,
confined to the narrow limits of a few feet, exposed to the merciless peltings of a
chill storm of rain and sleet, with only a thin lodge skin to shelter us, without fire
to warm or dry ourselves by, and, worse than all, destitute of the means of
appeasing the gnawings of hunger.
But, forbidding as the picture may seem, it proved only the commencement of a
long series of suffering and deprivation, more intensely dreadful in its nature, that
was yet held in reserve for us.
On the forenoon of the fourth day the storm abated, and, favored with a slight
rise of water, by dint of extraordinary effort we finally succeeded in getting afloat,
and gained the right shore after pulling our craft over sandbars for a distance of
two miles.
All hands now turned out in search of game, one of whom returned, towards
night with an antelope, providing us with a needful supply of food for the time
being.
The next day, forcing our craft onward for six or eight miles, we brought to upon
the left shore, where, after a short excursion among the hills, two other antelope
were brought in, which furnished us with a further supply of provisions.
The day following we continued our voyage till towards noon, when a high wind
compelled us again to lay by under the lee of a small island.
Here, towards night, having spread our robes near the camp fire, while all hands
were busy at the boat, a sudden gust of wind bore the sparks among the dry
grass, and in an instant the whole island was one sheet of flame! robes, blankets,
and all, were almost entirely destroyed, notwithstanding our prompt efforts to
save them.
Continuing on, the next morning we forced our boat, or rather carried it, down
stream for about fifteen miles, —wading the river for nearly the whole distance.
Our mode of voyaging was pretty much the same, each day of its continuance.
Sailing was out of the question.
Not unfrequently we were obliged to unload five or six times in the course of a
few hours, in order to lift the boat over high sand-bars, carrying its cargo upon
our backs through the water a half-mile or more, to some dry place of deposit for
the mean time; then returning it in the like tiresome manner, —now in water up to
our arm-pits, —then scarcely enough to cover the sand of the river bed.
As for a channel there was none, or rather, there were so many we were at a
continual loss which to choose.
Now, gliding along merrily for a mile or two, we are brought to a halt by the water
scattering over a broad bed, and find ourselves snugly "pocketed," with no other
means of extrication than by backing out; then, wading against a swift current, we
retrace our steps for a like distance, and try another chute, perhaps with no
better success; —then, again, conveying our landing to the nearest point of land,
by means of hand-spikes and levers (requiring an exercise of the utmost
strength,) we force our empty craft over the shoals, and again load it, perhaps, to
re-act the same scene in a brief interval.
Sometimes we were obliged to travel (for such navigation as this was tenfold
worse than travelling) four of five miles to make one mile headway. By crossing
and re-crossing a river varying in width from one to two miles — first advancing,
then retreating; now taking to the right, then to the left; now transverse, and then
oblique, we wasted our time, strength, and patience, in labor to little or no
purpose. No one, unless practically experienced, can have a correct idea of the
beauties of such a voyage.
Towards night, attracted by the appearance of a couple of bulls among the sandhills, we brought to upon the left shore, and succeeded in killing one of them.
A high wind the day following kept us encamped and afforded another
opportunity for hunting.
Improving the occasion to explore the country northward, and obtain, if possible,
some correct conception of its general character, a jaunt of four or five miles,
over the bottom of rich alluvial soil skirting the river, ushered me into a high
rolling prairie, partaking of the mixed nature of the garden and desert.
The hills, in many places, were piles of sand or sun-baked clay, with scarcely a
shrub or spire of grass to hide their nude deformity, while the space between
them sported a rich soil and luxuriant vegetation, and was clothed in the verdure
and loveliness of spring, and adorned with blushing wild-flowers in full bloom.
Further on were yet higher summits, surmounted by pines and cedars, raising
their heads in stately grandeur far above the sweet valleys at their feet.
Taken together, the scenery was not only romantic and picturesque, but
bewitching in its beauty and repulsive in its deformity.
The prevailing rock was a dark, ferruginous sandstone, and argillaceous
limestone, interspersed with conglomerates of various kinds.
Proceeding to a distance of about fifteen miles from the river, in hopes of finding
game, I encountered nothing save a solitary band of wild horses, that fled across
the sand-hills with the fleetness of the wind on my appearance, after which I
returned to the boat much fatigued from the excursion.
Our other hunters had also returned; but neither of them with better success than
myself.
The subsequent morning we again renewed our voyage. Soon after, an old bull
presenting himself upon the river bank, we landed, and one of the crew
approached him from the water-edge.
The old fellow, unconscious of the danger which threatened, permitted the hunter
to advance till within three or four yards of him. The sharp crack of a rifle-shot
first awoke him to a sense of his situation, when, reeling, he plunged headlong
from the steep bank into the river. Our marksman, in an effort to dodge the falling
beast, tumbled backwards into swimming water —lost his gun, and came very
near being drowned.
The bull made halt at a sand-bar, near by, and received nineteen shots in his
carcase before he could be dispatched.
When killed, his hams were found half eaten by wolves, and his whole body
otherwise so badly mangled we left it unbutchered.
In the afternoon, having pursued our way eight or ten miles, we lay by for the
night.
A high wind and rain during the three succeeding days prevented further
progress, and in the interval our provisions became again exhausted.
While here, observing two Indians in the distance, running buffalo, I took three
men and started to meet them. On coming up, we found an old Indian with his
son engaged in butchering. Announcing the object of my visit to be the
procurement of meat, they listened without a reply, but continued their
operations, —laying the selections in two separate heaps.
When finished, the old man led up his horse, and, pointing to an assorted pile,
told me it was mine, and the animal also should be at my service to convey it to
camp.
His village, he remarked, was a long distance over the hills, on the watch for
Pawnees, and though in a directly opposite course from us, he loved the white
man and would give him meat and a horse to carry it.
Accepting the offer of the generous-hearted savage, I took the heavy-laden horse
and returned to the boat, —the owner following to regain his beast. When
arrived, he hinted at no remuneration for his kindness, and mounting his horse,
would have left for his village.
Where will you find among civilized people men thus generous and obliging?
Such cases are indeed rare. The savage here proved himself of more noble
principles than nineteen-twentieths of his enlightened and Christianized brethren,
whose religion teaches them to love their neighbor as themselves, and do to
others as they would like to be done unto!
Unwilling that such disinterested kindness should go unrewarded, I made the old
man some trifling presents, which he accepted with great pleasure, and, pressing
his hand to his breast, exclaimed: "Chanta-ma warstaello!" (my heart is good!)
and, shaking hands with the company, put whip to his horse and was soon out of
sight.
It is useless to notice the particular progress of each day, or to state how many
times we unloaded in the interim — how often we crossed the river, or how far
we carried our boat by main strength; these things have been already laid before
the reader sufficiently to give him some faint idea of the intolerable hardships and
sufferings we were compelled to undergo. Each day was but a repetition of the
toils and struggles of the preceding one.
Neither would it be interesting to state the especial half-day, day, or successive
days we went without eating, meanwhile; suffice it to say, the morning of the 10th
of June found us at the mouth of a small creek upon the right shore, about two
hundred miles below the Fort, —having been thirty-five days en barquette, and
without eating for full one third of that time! The expected spring rise had failed,
and the river was very low and still falling, so that there was no possible chance
of conveying our cargo to the States, as the most difficult part of the voyage lay
yet before us. I accordingly abandoned all thoughts of the latter, and adopted
such other arrangements as my judgment suggested upon the premises.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Hunting excursion. Thirst more painful than hunger. Geological observations.
Mournful casualty. Sad scene of sepulture. Melancholy night. Voyage in an
empty boat. Ruins of a Pawnee village at Cedar Bluff. Plover creek. Cache
Grove. Thousand Islands. Abandon boat. Exploring company. A horrible
situation. Agony to torment. Pawnee village. Exemplary benevolence of an Indian
chief. Miserable fourth of July. Four days' starvation. Arrival at Council Bluff.
Proceed to Independence.
FOR two days preceding we had been without eating, and our first effort was to
procure a re-supply of provisions. Both crews started out with their rifles in
pursuit of game, though not the foot-print of any living creature appeared to
excite even the faintest hope of success.
Still, however, we kept on, determined not to despair so long as the use of legs
remained to us.
Having travelled some fifteen miles, chance threw in our way a doe-elk with her
fawn, which the unerring aim of a rifle speedily laid dead before us. Soon as
opened, the liver disappeared at the demands of voracious appetites, and next to
it the marrow bones and kidneys.
The process of cooking was then commenced over a fire of bois de vache, which
was continued till each stomach was abundantly satisfied. But, here another
enemy assumed the place of hunger, and one far more painful in its nature.
There was not a drop of water to allay our thirst short of the river, fifteen miles
distant, —over an open sand-prairie and beneath the scorching rays of a vertical
sun.
I can endure hunger for many days in succession without experiencing any very
painful sensations, —I can lie down and forget it in the sweet unconsciousness of
sleep, or feast my imagination upon the rich-spread tables of dreams; — but not
so with thirst. It cannot be forgotten, sleeping or waking, while existence is
retained. It will make itself known and felt! It will parch your tongue and burn your
throat, despite your utmost endeavors to thrust it from memory!
Each one shouldering his burden from the carcase, we took up our line of march
for the boat, where, arriving in four or five hours subsequently, we quenched our
burning thirst in the water of the thrice welcome stream.
The country travelled over during this excursion, for the first ten or twelve miles,
was a level plain, presenting a thin vegetable mould with a luxuriant growth of
grass and herbage, upon a substratum of sand and gravel.
The remainder of our route led through a ridge of hills, many of them naked,
others clothed with grass and ornamented with pines; — between the tumuli
were many beautiful vallons, gorgeously decked with wild-flowers in full bloom,
and arrayed in mantles of living green; while thick clusters of fruit-bearing trees
and shrubs attested the general fecundity and lent their enchantment to the
scene.
Beyond this a gentle acclivity, that led to the high prairies, spread before the
beholder a wilderness of verdure, without one moving object to relieve its
cheerless monotony.
The boats were unloaded on our return and their contents placed in a compact
pile upon shore, over which were spread two thicknesses of lodgeskin, to protect
it from the weather. Other necessary arrangements were soon completed. Two
men being selected to remain with the robes, two were dispatched to the Fort,
while the remainder with myself were to make our way to the States, if possible,
in an empty boat.
Everything was put in order for departure the next morning, and a gloomy feeling
pervaded each mind as the hour approached that was to separate a band so
closely united by mutual sufferings, toil, and deprivation.
Those selected to accompany me were congratulating themselves on the
prospect of soon reaching the termination of their arduous and eventful
expedition, among the friends and acquaintances of other days; and none were
more happy in the anticipation of this hoped for finale, than was a lively French
youth, named Prudom.
Notwithstanding the general tendency of circumstances was to produce feelings
of melancholy, his voice rang loud in announcing the varied plans of amusement
and pleasure, that were to be realized upon his arrival at home.
For this day, so far at least, he had been the petit garçon of the company; and, it
was frequently remarked, as his quaint expressions and sallies of wit burst upon
the ear, "What in the world is the matter with Prudom?
His good nature and kindness of disposition had won the esteem of all
acquainted with him, while his cheerfulness and fortitude at all times contributed
much to render tolerable the dreariness of our forlorn condition.
A little before night, the company indulged in a general cleansing, accompanied
by a shave and change of clothes. Prudom was among the number, for whom an
intimate friend officiated as barber; — the operation finished, he jokingly
remarked:
"Well, Tom, I suppose this is the last time you'll ever shave me!"
Little did the poor fellow think how soon his words were to be verified. Seizing his
rifle he stepped on board the boat, and, stooping to lay it by, exclaimed, "Here's
the game!"
The words were scarcely uttered, when the gun-lock, coming in sudden contact
with the boat-side, discharged the piece and shot him through the heart! He
staggered, faltering forth " Mon Dieu!" and fell dead at my feet!"
A thrill of horror struck every nerve on witnessing this tragical event. If we had
previously felt melancholy, we now felt dismal and wobegone. He, who five
minutes since was the very soul of cheerfulness and mirth, now lay a lifeless
corpse! How true it is, we "know not what a day or an hour may bring forth."
The sun was just setting as we commenced digging a grave in which to deposite
all that remained of our friend and companion.
The task was a sad one, and as tedious as it was sorrowful. We had neither
shovel nor pick-axe, and were compelled to dig it with our butcher knives and
hands.
The pale-moon, new-risen, shed her sombre light over the dismal realms of
Solitude, and an intervening cloud cast its pall-like shaddow upon the scene of
sepulture, as we laid low the corpse in mother dust. No shroud covered — no
useless coffin enclosed it, —a grave was the only gift within the power of
friendship to bestow! A thin coating of earth succeeded by a layer of stones and
drift-wood, and that again by another earth-coat, was its covering, —then, the
mournful task was done, a tear dropt to the memory of poor Prudom, and his
body left to slumber in its narrow prison-house, till the sound of the last trump
shall wake the dead to judgment.37
That night to us was a more painful one than any we had passed. A feeling of
superstitious awe, mingled with thrilling sensations of grief and thoughts of our
own miserable condition, occupied each mind and usurped the soothing powers
of sleep. The dolesome howlings of tie prairie-wolf, and hootings of the midnight
owl, borne upon the listening air, kept sad condolence with our musings, and
gave increased momentum to the pressure that crushed our spirits. Who could
sleep, amid such scenes and surrounded by such circumstances?
The rising sun of the morrow brought the hour of separation, and exhibited upon
every face the same downcast look, prefiguring the inward-workings of a mind
absorbed in the melancholy of its own thoughts.
My party consisted of six, some of whom were selected from the crew of our
consort. We all embarked in one boat, taking with us a small quantity of robes,
(our own individual property,) and a portion of the provisions at camp.
37
On my return the ensuing fall, I learned that the body of the unfortunate young -- had been disinterred by wolves and
devoured.
Our voyage for a few days succeeding, was performed without much difficulty,
except in the article of food — for, from this onward, till we finally reached the
settlements, (an interval of twenty-eight days,) we were without eating full one
half of the time!
Proceeding some thirty miles, we overtook the American Fur Company's barges,
three in number, the crews of which were struggling on in vain effort to reach the
States. We glided past them with a loud huzza, and rallied the poor, toiling
voyageurs, upon the futility of their exertions.
Five or six days subsequently, we were, in turn, overtaken by them; they, like
ourselves, abandoning all hope of accomplishing the objects of their voyage, had
left their freight at Ash creek, under guard — and, from that on, became our
compagnons de voyage.
The only game previous to reaching the forks of the Platte — a distance some
two hundred miles — was now and then an antelope, with a few straggling deer.
Our subsistence, meanwhile, was principally upon "greens," and such roots as
we had time and opportunity to gather.
The country was pretty much of a uniform character, with that previously
described. The rich alluvion of the river bottom reposed upon varied substratum
of sand, marl, gravel, and clay.
I noticed several varieties of clays in the river banks exposed by the attrition of
the water—of these were the white, red, black, yellow, blue, and green.
The white clay is much used by the Indians in cleaning skins and robes; an
operation performed by mixing it with water till the compound assumes the color
and about four times the consistency of milk, when it is applied to the surface of
the article in hand; the robe or skin thus washed, after being thoroughly dried in
the sun, is rubbed until it becomes soft and pliable from friction, and the grosser
particles of the preparation are loosened and removed.
By this simple process skins assume a milky whiteness, and every spot of grease
or dirt is made to disappear.
All kinds of skin may be thus cleansed, and will readily attain an unsoiled purity,
surpassing that originally possessed. Red, yellow, black, blue, or any other kind
of clay, may be used for like purposes, and will readily impart to the cleansed
articles their own color.
In case a single application is insufficient, repeat the process for two or three
times, and there can be no possible failure in the result, provided the clay is pure
and good.
Some twenty miles above the Forks, we passed a ridge of rocky hills exhibiting
layers of limestone and sandstone in bold escarpments, that jutting into the river
from the right, formed a high embankment covered with pines and cedars, known
as Cedar Bluff.
At the upper side of this point stood the remains of an old Pawnee village, which
had been deserted by its inhabitants immediately after the bloody battle between
that nation and the Sioux, at the mouth of Ash creek.
The bottom, for several miles above, is rarely excelled in fertility. The islands are
generally timbered, but the river banks upon both sides are almost entirely
destitute of trees of any kind.
From Cedar Bluff, in about eight miles, we came to the mouth of a large and
beautiful creek, forcing its way, with a clear and rapid current, from the high
rolling prairies to the north. This presented the appearance of being skirted with
broad and fertile bottoms, well supplied with timber among the hills. Though
vested with some importance on account of its size and locality, it is as yet
nameless — the abundance of plovers in its vicinity at the time of my passing,
suggested the term "Plover creek" as a proper appellation.
Five or six miles further on, we came to a large grove of cottonwood upon the
right shore. Here, some five years since, a company of traders, while descending
the Platte in boats loaded with furs, made cache of one hundred and sixty packs
of robes, which they were compelled to leave on account of the low stage of the
water. The luckless party, after enduring great hardships, arrived in the States;
but their cache was subsequently plundered by Pawnees.
The confluence of the North and South Forks made but little perceptible
difference in the size of the river. From the junction, in five days' time we reached
the vicinity of Grand Island, about two hundred and twenty miles from the nearest
white settlements.
The high prairie upon the north shore, between the above points, is generally
sandy. The river presents numerous clusters of islands, most of which are
heavily timbered and clothed with luxuriant growths of vegetation. The soil is of a
deep, sandy loam, and well adapted to cultivation, I noticed upon them several
choice wild flowers of rare beauty.
We experienced great difficulty in forcing our boats through a large group, called
the "Thousand Islands," that thickly studded the river for some ten miles, and,
before clearing them, found our passage completely blockaded.
Having consumed an entire day in vain effort to proceed, we were at length
compelled to abandon the idea. The water was constantly falling, and our
condition hourly becoming worse. This forced upon us the dernier resort of
performing the remainder of our arduous journey on foot.
Accordingly, making cache of the personal property with us, we sunk our barges
in a deep hole near by, threw all extra clothing into the river, and, each selecting
a robe with as much meat as he could carry, we commenced our weary tramp.
The property thus disposed of was of the value of several hundred dollars.
Among other articles left in cache, were arms and tools of various kinds.
No one would now carry a gun, — as we were to pass through a section of
country destitute of game, and, being obliged to travel with all possible despatch
to avoid starvation, good policy prompted us to dispense with every unnecessary
encumbrance. For myself, however, I was unwilling to relinquish my rifle, and
determined to take it with me.
There were fourteen of us, including the coups de barquette of the American Fur
Company; and, as we trudged along at a pace enfeebled by a series of cruel
hardships, fatigue, and starvation, —with provisions and beds bound in close
bundles and strapped to our backs, —half-naked, long-bearded, careworn, and
haggard, —we looked like the last remnants of hard times!
The 28th of June dated the commencement of this last stage of our tiresome
pilgrimage.
Having travelled some ten or twelve miles, we espied a camp of whites a short
distance in advance, and were observed by them almost at the same time. Our
appearance created an evident consternation, —their horses were driven in with
great speed, and their guns stripped ready for action, while our or five men,
mounted upon fleet chargers, rode out to reconnoitre.
On ascertaining the cause of their alarm to be only a handful of unarmed men,
they ventured up, and were saluted with the cordiality of old acquaintances, so
rejoiced were we at the sight of anything savoring of the endearments of home
and civilization.
The company proved one in the employ of the United States Government, under
the command Lieut. J. C. Fremont, of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, on
an expedition for the exploration and survey of the country laying between the
Missouri river and the mountains.
The commandant seemed a gentleman of urbanity and intelligence, and politely
furnished us with all the passing news of the day preceding his departure from
the States.
Our smokers and tobacco-chewers, who had been for sometime without the sina
qua non of the mountaineer, now procured a re-supply for the indulgence of their
filthy and unnatural taste.
Leaving our new-found friends, we continued on for a few miles, and halted a
brief interval under the shade of a cottonwood grove. While thus reclining upon
the green grass, what was our surprise at seeing three Indians, who appeared
suddenly in our midst extending their hands to greet us!
They belonged to a war-party of Chyennes, —had been to the Pawnees, and
were now on their return, with three horses captured from the enemy.
Continuing our course, towards sundown I began to find my rifle rather
cumbersome, and, yielding to the advice of all hands, threw it away.
Having travelled till late at night, we laid ourselves down in the trail for repose;—
the musquetoes, however, together with the heat, were so annoying, sleep was
impossible.
I never in my life before was so tortured by these relentless persecutors. Their
sting was far more tolerable to me than the unending hum of their music. To
exterminate them was a hopeless task, for, at the death of one, fifty would come
to its funeral, —and to submit quietly to their rapacity and be eaten up alive by
such loving friends, was more than human flesh and blood could endure.
For three hours I lay, sweltered by the heat and pierced by the hungry myriads
that swarmed around, until my agony became so great it obtained the mastery of
reason, and I was scarcely self-conscious whether a being of earth or an
inhabitant of the realms of woe.
In the height of my phrenzy I fancied four demons had hold of the extremities of
my robe, and were fiercely dragging me over a prairie of sharp rocks, that tore
my flesh at every bound. The remainder of the party suffered equally with myself,
and none of them were permitted to close their eyes that night.
June 29th. We started at early day, and pursued our journey till ten o'clock, which
brought us to the foot of Grand Island, —a distance of sixty miles from the place
of our adventure with the Indians during the previous afternoon. Here we
indulged in a slight repast, and, reclining upon the grass, enjoyed a few hours'
sleep, despite the continued annoyance of musquetoes.
On arousing to resume the painful march, our legs were found in a very
unenviable plight, and almost refused to sustain the accustomed burthen. Our
feet, also, (softened and made tender by the mollifying effects of the water, to
which they had been so long familiar, and, unused to the offices now newly
forced upon them,) were sore and swollen to a frightful size. From this on, our
journey was most intensely painful.
But, notwithstanding all, we were compelled to keep moving, though our progress
seemed more like the passage of Mahomet's "bridge of swords" than aught else
imaginable.
July 2d. This morning our stock of provisions was entirely exhausted, and yet a
long distance intervened between us and the settlements.
Towards night, however, chance brought us in the way of a plentiful supper, by
our encountering the Pawnee village on its way to the buffalo range. We were
entertained by the head chief in a hospitable manner, who furnished us
bountifully with boiled corn and mush; and we were also invited into several
shantees with the same kind intention.
The Pawnee chief (Red Eagle, if my recollection serves me right) was a
generous old fellow, aged some sixty years. His benevolence was truly
exemplary, as his conduct well attested. My moccasins, being much worn by long
usage, exposed to the ground the bottoms of my feet. This was no sooner
discovered by the noble-hearted old man, than he pulled off his own (a pair of
new ones) and gave them to me!
What white man would have done the like? And this was done by the poor
Indian, not from the expectation of reward, but through the promptings of an
innate benevolence! A small tin-cup, taken with me thus far, was the only return
in my power to make.
Leaving the village a little before sundown, we encamped for the night near the
houses recently occupied by these Indians, after having travelled seven or eight
miles. Their buildings are coniform, and constructed of earth and timber, very
similar to those of the Kansas tribe, described in a previous chapter.
Several years ago, the Pawnees were a numerous and powerful nation,
possessing an extensive territory, and occupying five large towns, viz: one upon
the Republican branch of the Kansas river, one at the forks of the Platte, one
south of the Arkansas near the Cumanche country, one on Loup creek, and one
some ninety miles above the mouth of the Platte. These several divisions were
known by the terms of Pic, Mahah, Republican, Loup, and Grand Pawnees. The
Riccarees, speaking the same language, may also be reckoned a fraction of this
tribe. The five villages before named are now reduced to two, i.e. on Loup creek
and above the mouth of the Platte.
The whole number of the Pawnee nation, exclusive of the Riccarees, probably
does not exceed six thousand souls. All of the western tribes being at war with
them, their numerical strength is continually diminishing.
Slight advances have been made towards improving the condition of this nation,
but, as yet, with little apparent success. A farmer, blacksmith, and schoolmaster
are provided them under the patronage of the U. S. Government, and a
missionary is also stationed among them by the American Board of Foreign
Missions.
They raise corn38 and other vegetables, but their principal dependence for
subsistence is upon the proceeds of hunting. Their general character is stamped
with indolence, treachery and cowardice, for which they have become famous,
not only among the whites, but also among their rude neighbors, —having thus
attained the hatred of both.
July 3d. This morning we parted company, and each of us undertook to make his
way to Council Bluff according to the best of his ability. Being entirely destitute of
food, it became us to urge our course with all possible dispatch.
July 4th. Accompanied by two others, in an equally forlorn condition, the "glorious
fourth" finds me plodding along, over an open prairie, beneath the scorching rays
of a summer's sun, unarmed, halt-naked, with a shouldered pack, and not having
had a morsel to eat for the past two days.
It is now I think of the festal boards and scenes of good cheer so omni-present
upon Freedom's birth-day in the land of my nativity! Mine is a mode of celebrating
Independence, that I care not ever again to observe.
On the 6th we reached the Ottoe mission and obtained food, after an abstinence
of four successive days.
Early in the morning of the 7th we arrived at Council Bluff on the Missouri, eight
miles above the mouth of the Platte, and nearly four hundred above Fort
Leavenworth. In the course of the day following our whole party came in, one
after another — some of whom had become so weakened by hardship and
deprivation they could scarcely move a dozen yards without stumbling!
Having remained a few days at Council Bluff to recruit our strength, we procured
canoes and descended the Missouri. The 21st inst. found me at Independence,
Mo., after an absence of nearly nine months, —having consumed seventy-five
days upon my return voyage, and, in the meantime, experienced a series of
suffering and misfortunes seldom equalled and rarely surpassed.
38
I noticed one cornfield, near the village, that contained sixty acres or mores and in appearance savored much of
civilized agriculture.
CHAPTER XIX.
The country between the Pawnee village and Bellevieu, and from that to Fort
Leavenworth. Leave Independence for the Mountains. Meet Pawnees. Indian
hospitality. Journey up the South Fork Platte. Fort Grove. Beaver creek. Bijou.
Chabonard's camp. Country described. Medicine Lodge. The Chyennes; their
character and history. Arrive at Fort Lancaster. Different localities in its
neighborhood. Fatal Duel. Ruins.
THE country travelled over from the Pawnee village to Council Bluff (or Bellevieu,
as more recently called) is generally possessed of a rich, clayey soil, which is
well adapted to cultivation.
Large quantities of timber skirt the streams, that include all the varieties found in
the States. The landscape is beautifully undulating, and, at the time of our
passing it, was covered with a luxuriant growth of vegetation, (the grass being
frequently waist high,) and ornamented by rare specimens of wild flowers.
The Pawnees, Ottoes, and Omahas possess the whole extent of this territory,
which embraces much valuable land within its limits. That north of the river and
adjacent to Bellevieu is owned by the Pottowatomies, who also claim to the
boundary between Iowa and Missouri.
The Kickapoos, Iowas, Sacs, and Foxes occupy the country south of the
Missouri, from the mouth of the Platte to Fort Leavenworth.
All of this interval possesses a fertile soil, is well watered and passably well
timbered. A more particular description of it, however, does not properly come
within the limits of this work.
Upon my arrival at Independence, affairs were in a rather confused state. Times
were hard and all kinds of business at their lowest ebb. The company for which I
had acted had become bankrupt, and left me a loser to no inconsiderable
amount. But, notwithstanding this unfavorable aspect of things, I decided upon
returning to the Mountains for the purpose of visiting the different regions
adjacent to them.
Acting upon this resolution, I expended the means at my immediate command for
the procurement of an outfit; — and the beginning of August saw me again en
route, accompanied by two experienced mountaineers — all of us mounted upon
hardy mules and well provided for the journey before us.
The first four or five days subsequent, our progress was much impeded by
successive rains, that rendered the road muddy and ourselves uncomfortable.
We were necessitated to raft the Wakarousha, and the Kansas was so swollen it
was forded with great difficulty, — the water frequently covering the backs of our
animals.
From that onward we enjoyed pleasant weather and journeyed without further
interruption; —nothing occurred worth note, till we reached the Pawnee range,
near the head of Big Blue.
One morning, while travelling along unconcernedly and at our leisure, having as
yet observed nothing to excite our apprehensions, a Pawnee suddenly made his
appearance directly in front of us.
Such a customer had we been aware of his proximity, would have been most
carefully avoided, in a place so dangerous as this; but, as he had first discovered
us, it was now too late to give him the slip, and we accordingly permitted his
approach, greeting him in a friendly manner.
He immediately informed us that the whole country was full of his people
returning from their summer-hunt, and he invited us to accompany him to the
village. This we declined, being unwilling to trust either him or his people.
Observing several other "shaved heads" hurrying towards us from over the
adjoining hills, we struck camp and prepared for the expected rencounter. Upon
coming near, however, they appeared friendly and were most of them unarmed.
Again we were urged to visit the village.
After waiting an hour or more, we resumed our course, still followed by the
unwelcome visitors. A ride of scarcely a half mile brought us to the top of a hill,
and, to our surprise, placed us in the immediate precincts of the village, — too far
advanced for a retreat.
The entire population was instantly in motion, and came crowding towards us
upon every side. Pushing boldly forward, we were received by the same kindhearted old chief of whom I had occasion to speak in the receding chapter. On
recognizing me, I was welcomed with great cordiality, and we were forthwith
conducted to his shantee and sumptuously entertained upon the choicest in his
possession.
Our camp-equipage and other articles were all safely disposed of, and nothing
conducive to our pleasure or comfort was left unattended to. During our entire
stay, we were beset with invitations to feasts which were prepared expressly for
us by these hospitable villagers, who appeared displeased whenever we
declined their acceptance.
The old chief brought forward his little grandson to shake hands with us —
remarking, that he would teach his children like himself to love the Americans.
A small sack filled with papers was then laid before me for perusal. They
consisted of recommendations, speaking in very flattering terms of the bearer,
Red Eagle, and belauding his kindness and liberality. Most willingly would I have
complied with his request, and made "the paper talk" for him, but the means were
not at hand.
The kind-hearted old man presented us each a pair of moccasins and urged our
stay till the next morning, —adding: "Some of my men are bad, and my heart is
sick for them. Should you go before sleep, they might follow and rob you. When
the morrow's sun has newly risen above the prairie, they will have left their footprints in the homeward trail, and my white brothers may pass unmolested. But, if
you will not rest beneath the shade of the Red Eagle, wait till the day-king is low,
then ride fast till the night is old, and thus may you avoid the evil ones who would
injure you."
This advice seemed so reasonable, we consented to remain till late in the
afternoon, when, driving up our animals, we made preparations to start.
Every article belonging to us was faithfully returned by the old man, who ordered
for us a present of buffalo meat. Several large pieces were accordingly brought
by different individuals, of excellent quality, and in quantity more than we could
well carry.
This was all a free gift, —no one even hinted at a compensation. Where will you
find among civilized man generosity and hospitality equal to this?
Willing to reward such exemplary conduct, we presented the liberal donors with a
small supply of sugar, coffee, and tobacco; and, to our host, we gave a knife and
some other trifling articles, all of which he received with evident gratification.
Bidding the noble chieftain adieu, we pursued our course in accordance with his
direction, —travelling nearly all night.
Early the next morning we struck the Platte, and, in the afternoon, reached the
point at which myself and others had abandoned our boats.
On visiting the cache made at that time, not a thing remained;—it had been
robbed by the Pawnees, in all probability, as the island was covered with the
tracks of men and horses. But what afforded still more conclusive evidence, was
the site of a recent Pawnee encampment within some four hundred yards of the
place.
The next morning brought us to the buffalo range, and our fare was one of
continued feasting from that onward.
Three days subsequently we came to the forks of the Platte, and continued up
the south branch, with the design of proceeding to New Mexico by way of Fort
Lancaster.
Here we entered a stretch of territory not as yet brought before the reader's
notice.
Passing on, a ride of between fifty and sixty miles brought us to a large grove of
willows at the mouth of a sand-creek, where we remained the day following.
The vicinity contained the relics of three or four Indian forts, constructed of logs,
—one or two of which were in an almost entire state of preservation, and
afforded a correct illustration of Indian military genius. Their forms were oval, and
the roofage so complete, we were amply sheltered in one of them from a heavy
shower which fell during our stay.
From this point (properly denominated Fort Grove) to the forks, the country is
rather sterile and rolling, with the exception of the river bottoms, which, as usual,
are possessed of a rich soil and vary in width from one to five miles. There is
scarcely a tree, worth naming, upon either bank of the river for the whole extent.
The expanse lying to the northward is quite broken and hilly, with some few pines
and cedars at the heads of ravines.
Previous to leaving Fort Grove I experienced an attack of the fever and ague,
which recurred, at intervals of once in two days, until we reached Fort Lancaster.
Resuming our journey, a ride of some ten miles brought us to the mouth of Pole
creek, a large affluent of the right shore. This is a clear and handsome stream,
running through a rich valley of considerable width. Its entire course affords but
very little timber, and the prairie upon either side is generally sandy and barren.
Journeying on about seventy-five miles further, we came to a large stream called
la Fouchett aux Castors, or Beaver Fork.
This creek heads in the highlands between the Platte and Arkansas, and traces
its course through a sandy country, varied by diminutive hills of clayey soil, for a
distance of nearly two hundred miles. — It presents many beautiful bottoms of a
rich vegetable mould, with here and there small clusters of timber.
Some forty or fifty miles above Beaver creek, we crossed Bijou, another large
affluent of the left shore. The water at the mouth of this stream was shallow,
dispersing itself in several small channels, over a bed of gravel and quicksand,
about four hundred yards wide, and enclosed by abrupt banks of clay and sand.
For several miles above its junction with the Platte no timber appears; but further
on, many large groves relieve the eye, and invite the traveller to their shade,
while broad meadows and rich bottoms, clothed with grass an flowers, cheer the
beholder and delight his fancy.
Aug. 30th. A ride of ten or fifteen miles, from this point, brought us to a camp of
whites, in the employ of Bent and St. Vrain, occupying a small island in the
Platte. They were guarding a quantity of robes with which they had attempted to
descend the river, but were unable to proceed further on account of low water.
I was much gratified at here meeting an old acquaintance, with whom I had
passed a portion of the previous winter upon White river.
The camp was under the direction of a half-breed, named Chabonard, who
proved to be a gentleman of superior information. He had acquired a classic
education and could converse quite fluently in German, Spanish, French, and
English, as well as several Indian languages. His mind, also, was well stored with
choice reading, and enriched by extensive travel and observation. Having visited
most of the important places, both in England, France, and Germany, he knew
how to turn his experience to good advantage.
There was a quaint humor and shrewdness in his conversation, so garbed with
intelligence and perspicuity, that he at once insinuated himself into the good
graces of listeners, and commanded their admiration and respect.
The country, between Fort Grove and Cabonard's camp, with the exception of
the river bottoms, (which were quite fertile and occupied an area, upon both
banks, varying in width from one hundred yards to five miles,) is slightly
undulating, and presents two uniform characteristics, —one, a thin clayish loam
upon a substratum of sand and gravel, and the other a sandy surface, often
entirely destitute of vegetation, save, perchance, a few scattering spires of
coarse grass and a species of prickly burr.
Various specimens of cacti are found in every direction, and prove a frequent
source of vexation to the traveller. The landscape discloses a scene of dreary
sterility, —more to be accounted for by the dryness of the climate than any
natural defect in the soil.
The river upon both sides is nearly destitute of timber, and we were frequently
compelled to use bois de vache for cooking purposes. There is also a scarcity of
rock, —though, in the neighborhood of Bijou, I observed a kind of grayish
sandstone, exposed to view in the beds of ravines; and, directly opposite
Chabonard's camp, the action of the waters had formed a steep wall, some thirty
or forty feet high, which disclosed a large bed of sandstone and slate, with earthy
limestone.
A few miles above Beaver Fork, we obtained a distinct view of the main ridge of
the Rocky Mountains with the snowy summit of Long's Peak, distant some sixty
or sixty-five miles. They appeared like a pile of dark clouds just rising from the
verge of the horizon, and could be identified only by their uniform and stationary
position.
From the time of first entering the buffalo range till we reached Bijou creek, our
entire course was beset with dense masses of those animals, which covered the
river bottoms and prairies in all directions, far as the eye could reach. Our usual
practice was to kill one every day, and select from its carcase the choice portions
so well known and highly appreciated by mountaineers; and, calling to aid the
varied modes of cooking peculiar to hunters, surely never did epicures fare better
than we.
A few miles above Beaver creek we passed the site of a recent Indian
encampment, where was yet standing the frame-work of a medicine lodge,
erected by the Chyennes and Arapahos for the performance of their religious
rites and ceremonies. This was made of light poles, describing an amphitheatre
with a diameter of some fifty feet. In form it was much like the pavilion of a circus,
and of sufficient dimensions to contain several hundred individuals.
I shall take occasion in subsequent pages to speak of medicine-making, and
would refer the reader to that part for an explanation of the peculiar purposes for
which the medicine lodge is constructed.
The river at Chabonard's camp is reduced fully one half in width, compared with
its size at the forks. The current is also clearer and more rapid. Its banks and
islands are much better timbered, and its general appearance indicates an
approach to the mountains.
About noon we bade farewell to our new friends, by whom we had been kindly
entertained, and resumed our journey, accompanied by my whilom companion
and two others, —increasing our number to six.
Towards sundown, coming to a small village of Chyennes, we passed the night in
the lodge of a chief, called the Tall Soldier. Our host treated us with much civility,
but in this he appeared actuated only by selfish motives, and with the sole view
of extorting a more than fourfold equivalent by way of presents.
We were also continually harassed by beggars from all quarters, and gladly
availed ourselves of the first dawn of the ensuing morning to pass on, and thus
escape their importunities.
The Chyennes at this time occupy a portion of the Arapaho lands, bordering
upon the South Fork and its affluents.
Some six or eight years since, they inhabited the country in the vicinity of the
Chvenne and White rivers and the North Fork of Platte, from whence they were
driven by the hostile incursions of the Sioux, who now hold in quiet possession
the whole of that territory.
This tribe, in general appearance, dress, and habits, assimilates most of the
mountain and prairie Indians, with the single exception, perhaps, of being
meaner than any other. They are certainly more saucy as beggars and impudent
and daring as thieves, than any other I ever became acquainted with.
Formerly they were a much better people, but the contaminating effects of
intercourse with the whites have made a disposition, naturally bad, immeasurably
worse. Contrary to Indian character in general, they are treacherous and
unworthy of trust, at all times and in all places.
Their history contains a small speck of romance, which may not prove altogether
uninteresting to the curious.
The Chyennes, at the present time, number about four hundred lodges, and
claim some eight hundred warriors. The tribe is composed of two divisions, viz:
the Chyennes and Gros Ventres, —both speaking the same language and
practising the same designation of nationality, shown in sundry transverse scars
upon the left arm.
Neither of these divisions know their origin, but tell the following curious story of
their first intercourse with each other.
Many years since, the Chyennes, while travelling from a north country,
discovered the Gros Ventres, who were also upon a journey. As usual among
strange tribes, both parties rushed to the attack, and a bloody battle would
undoubtedly have been the result, had it not been stayed by the mutual discovery
of an identity of language. Upon this, hostility at once gave place to friendship,
and the two parties negotiated an immediate union. Since then they have been
considered as one nation.
What is most singular in this occurrence, neither the Gros Ventres nor Chyennes
could trace any previous connection or intercourse with each other, or knowledge
of their individual existence.
This tribe has made no advances in civilization, and most probably will make
none for many years to come. Their roving and unsettled habits prove an
obstacle, almost insuperable, to any efforts that may be undertaken for their
improvement.
They are generally accounted friendly to the whites, but friendship like this is
essentially of a dangerous character.
Continuing our journey, the evening of Sept. 2d brought us to Fort Lancaster,
after an interval of twenty-six days, during which we had travelled not far from
seven hundred and twenty miles.
Our route from Chabonard's camp to this point, for the most part, led along the
valley of the Platte, which resembled a garden in the splendor of its fields and the
variety of its flowers.
A ride of four or five miles took us across the dry bed of a large sand-creek, four
or five hundred yards wide, known as the Kuyawa. The banks of this arroyo are
very steep and high, disclosing, now and then, spreads of beautiful bottom lands
with occasional groves of cottonwood. At this season of the year its waters are
lost in the quicksand and gravel.
We also passed the mouths of three large affluents of the right bank of Platte,
severally known as Crow creek, Cache a la Poudre, and Thompson's Fork.
These creeks rise in the adjoining mountains, and, with the exception of Crow
creek, trace their way with clear and rapid currents, from two to three feet deep
and sixty feet wide, over beds of sand and pebbles. Their valleys are broad, rich,
and for the most part well timbered.
Timber increases in quantity, upon the Platte and its affluents, as the traveller
approaches the mountains, and the soil gradually loses that withering aridity so
characteristic of the grand prairie.
Twelve miles below Fort Lancaster we passed Fort George, a large trading post
kept up by Bent and St. Vrain. Its size rather exceeds that of Fort Platte,
previously described; it is built, however, after the same fashion, —as, in fact, are
all the regular trading posts in the country. At this time, fifteen or twenty men
were stationed there, under the command of Mr. Marsalina St. Vrain.
Six miles further on, we came to a recently deserted post, which had been
occupied the previous winter and summer by Messrs Lock and Randolph.
One of our party, a whilom engagé of this company, informed me of its principals'
becoming bankrupt, through mismanagement and losses of various kinds;—he
stated, that, in May last, their entire "cavalliard," consisting of forty-five head of
horses and mules, had been stolen by the Sioux Indians; this, in connection with
other bad luck — together with the depreciated value of furs and peltries, the
failure of a boat-load of robes to reach the states, the urgent demands of
creditors, &c., had caused them to evacuate their post and quit the country.
A short distance above this, at a point of timber occupying a large bottom, had
been the scene of a fatal duel the previous winter, between two whites by the
names of Herring and Beer. On my first arrival in the country I had become
acquainted with both of the actors, and felt much interested in the details of the
bloody affair as related by one present at the time of its unfortunate occurrence.
The difficulty between them related to a Mexican woman from Taos, —the wife of
Herring.
Backed by a number of personal friends, and anxious to obtain the lady from her
husband, the former had provoked a quarrel and used very insulting language to
his antagonist. This was received with little or no reply, but soon, however,
resulted in a challenge which was promptly accepted.
The preliminaries were arranged in confident expectation of killing Herring, who
was considered a poor marksman, especially at an off-hand shot. The weapons
selected by Beer were rifles, the distance fifty yards, the manner off-hand, and
the time of shooting between the word fire and three. The two met, attended by
their friends, at the time and place agreed upon, at the word "fire," the ball of
Beer's rifle was buried in a cottonwood a few inches above the head of his
antagonist, —at the word "three" the contents of Herring's rifle found lodgement
in the body of Beer, who fell and expired in a few minutes.
Between this point and Fort Lancaster, I noticed the ruins of another trading post,
much dilapidated in appearance, and nearly levelled with the ground.
Passing along, I could not refrain from musing upon the frequent deeds of
mischief and iniquity that had originated within them, in connection with the
infamous liquor traffic. Ah, thought I, were those bricks possessed of tongues; full
many a tale of horror and guilt would they unfold, to stand the listener's "hair on
end," and make his blood run cold! But, lost in silent unconsciousness, they
refuse to speak the white man's shame!
CHAPTER XX.
Old acquaintances. Indian murders. Mode of travelling in a dangerous country.
Mexican traders. Summary way of teaching manners. Fort Lancaster and
surrounding country. Resume journey. Cherry creek and connecting
observations. Sketch of the Arapahos, their country, character, &c. Camp of free
traders. Blackfoot camp. Daugherty's creek. Observations relative to the Divide.
Mexican cupidity. Strange visitors. The lone travellers. Arrive at the Arkansas.
General remarks. Curious specimens of cacti. Fontaine qui Bouit, or Natural
Soda fountain. Indian superstition. Enchanting scenery. Extraordinary wall of
sandstone.
AT Fort Lancaster I was gratified by meeting with several acquaintances of the
previous winter, two of whom had been comrades during a part of my unfortunate
and adventurous voyage down the Platte.
My appearance created no little surprise and pleasure, on all sides. Queries of
various kinds were industriously plied, relative to the latest news from the States,
and also in reference to the miseries and hardships undergone during the interval
of my absence. The dangers of our mode of travelling were freely expatiated
upon, and numerous instances of recent Indian hostilities cited to prove our "fool
daring."
Among the latter was an outrage perpetrated by the Chyennes, only two weeks
previous, in the murder of three white men, —one of whom was the oldest
trapper in the mountains, and had been for some time engaged in the fur trade.
The murderers had the impudence to ask a scalp-feast from the commandant of
the Fort, according to custom in case of overcoming their enemies in battle! The
hair, however, being recognized as that of a white man, no feast was given.
When accused of the murder, they apologized by saying the poor fellow was
suffering greatly at the time from recent wounds, and they had killed him out of
pity!
In our mode of travelling, we always used due precaution to avoid surprise and
attack. This is easily done, while among buffalo, by noticing their movements, —
as these animals invariably flee across the wind upon the approach of man, and
neither Indians nor whites can traverse their range without setting the whole
country in motion.
We observed another plan of caution by frequently ascending some eminence,
and scanning the wide expanse, far and near.
Our general practice was to travel till night, and camp without fire in the open
prairie, thus precluding the possibility of being discovered, even though in the
immediate vicinity of Indians.
A party of three or four men can pass through a dangerous country and avoid
coming in contact with enemies, provided they exercise a needful vigilance much
more easily than one of larger numbers. With a large company too much
dependence is reposed in each other, which soon results in individual
carelessness and neglect. Added to this, they are apt to rely upon their numerical
strength, and, forgetting this simple truism, that "caution is the parent of safety,"
rush into danger when they are least aware of it. It thus occurs that large parties
are more liable to surprise than smaller ones, and more frequently suffer losses
from the depredations of prowling enemies.
On the contrary, where but three or four individuals are travelling together, they
trust exclusively to their own personal vigilance. Keenly alive to every suspicious
appearance, they seldom fail to discover the presence of danger without
exposing themselves, and may avoid it by a timely retreat or change of course.
There is little risk in an open prairie, in case an enemy is first seen by the party
wishing to shun his presence;—they have only to manoeuvre in such a manner
as to elude observation, (a thing not often difficult,) and all is safe. In subsequent
travels through dangerous countries I have always acted upon these
suggestions, and never yet found them to fail.
Some twelve or fifteen Mexicans were at this time present at the Fort. They
constituted a trading party from Taos, escorting a caravan of packhorses and
mules, laden with flour, corn, bread, beans, onions, dried pumpkin, salt, and
pepper, to barter for robes, skins, furs, meat, moccasins, bows and arrows,
ammunition, guns, coffee, calico, cloth, tobacco, and old clothes, which were to
compose their return freight.
A worse looking set was here presented than that previously described in the
second chapter of this volume. Some of them were as black as veritable
negroes, and needed only the curly hair, thick lips, and flattened nose, to define
the genuine Congo in appearance. A more miserable looking gang of filthy halfnaked, ragamuffins, I never before witnessed.
Their cargoes had already been disposed of at various prices, according to
circumstances. Flour and meal were sold at from four to six dollars per fanega,
(one hundred and twenty pounds,) and other articles at like prices. Their first
asking price was at the rate of twenty dollars per fanega; but an affray which
occurred with a small party of Americans, immediately upon their arrival, had
made these produce merchants much more reasonable in their demands.
The particulars of the affair were rather disgraceful to both parties. The
Americans, anxious to purchase a quantity of flour, offered to take it at the asking
price, provided the Mexicans would receive their pay in robes of a rather
indifferent quality. This the latter refused and a dispute arose, when insulting
language was used on both sides, coupled with threats of mutual injury.
The Mexicans retired a short distance and' camped, —soon after the Americans,
four in number, rushed among them and drove off their entire cavallard,
containing twenty head of horses and mules. The Mexicans seized their arms for
resistance, and the commandante advancing demanded of the nearest assailant:
"Que quiere, cabellero?" (what do you want, sir?)
"Yo tenga lo caballardo, —porque dicirme esta?" (I have your horses, why do
you ask?)
"Carraho, American.!" said the Mexican, levelling his gun at the speaker. In an
instant a pistol-shot from the latter laid him prostrate, — the ball entering his
chest near the heart. No further resistance was offered, and the assailants retired
with their booty.
The next morning, however, they returned, and the two parties compromised the
matter by certain conciliatory arrangements, which resulted in the Americans
giving up the captured animals, on condition that the Mexicans should in future
be less insolent and conduct their trade on more reasonable terms.
The wounded man recovered in three or four weeks, and was now ready to
accompany his party on their homeward-bound journey.
A large number of Mexicans are employed at the different trading posts in this
vicinity. They prove quite useful as horse-guards, and also in taking care of cattle
and doing the drudgery connected with these establishments.
Their wages vary from four to ten dollars per month, which they receive in articles
of traffic at an exhorbitant price;—viz: calicoes, (indifferent quality,) from fifty
cents to one dollar per yard; blue cloth, from five to ten dollars per do.; powder,
two dollars per lb.; lead, one do. do.; coffee, one do. do.; tobacco, from two to
three do. do.; second hand robes, two dollars apiece, —and everything else in
proportion.
Their wages for a whole year, in actual value, bring them but a trifling and almost
nameless consideration. Notwithstanding, these miserable creatures prefer
travelling four hundred miles to hire for such diminutive wages, rather than to
remain in their own country and work for less. They know of no better way to get
a living, and are, therefore, happy in their ignorance, and contentedly drag out a
wretched existence as best they may.
After a period of service they generally return home laden with the paltry
proceeds of their toil, and, yielding to the impulses of custom, a single fandango
is sufficient to leave them penniless like the squalid crowd with whom they
mingle.
A week's stay at the Fort restored me to health and soundness from the
debilitating effects of the fever and ague, without a resort to medicine. This
disease (the first and only attack of which I ever experienced) had made fearful
inroads upon my strength during the short interval of its continuance, and
rendered me unfit for travelling;—but, a change of climate and the inhalation of
the pure mountain air effected a permanent and speedy cure, in a much less time
than I had reason to expect.
Fort Lancaster occupies a pleasant site upon the south bank of the Platte river,
about nine hundred miles from its mouth, and seven hundred and twenty from
Independence, in lat. 40° 12' 25" north, long. 105° 53' 11" west from Greenwich.
The distance from this point to the dividing ridge of the Rocky Mountains is about
thirty-five miles, and from Taos, in New Mexico, between three and four hundred
miles.
Long's Peak with its eternal snow appears in distinct view to the westward, and
imparts to the sunset scenery a beauty and grandeur rarely witnessed in any
country. This peak is one of the highest of the mountain range, being upwards of
13,500 feet above the level of the Gulf of Mexico, and issues from its eastern
side the waters of the Atlantic, and from its western the tributaries of the Pacific.
Between the mountains and the Fort, the prairie is generally level, though slightly
undulating in places; — it is possessed of a tolerable soil, composed of clay and
gravel, ever and anon spreading before the traveller rich valleys, decked with
sweet flowers and lusty herbage.
The country eastward is rolling, sandy, and sterile; and, with few exceptions,
presents little to attract the eye or please the fancy.
The Platte bottoms, above and below, are quite heavily timbered and afford an
abundance of grass of various kinds. The soil is of a black, deep loam, very rich
and well adapted to cultivation.
The business transacted at this post is chiefly with the Chyennes, but the
Arapahos, Mexicans, and Soux also come in for a large share, and contribute to
render it one of the most profitable trading establishments in the country.
Sept. 10th. Arrangements being completed for resuming my journeys I left Fort
Lancaster in company with four others, intending to proceed as far as Taos in
New Mexico. We were all mounted upon stout horses, and provided with two
pack-mules for the conveyance of baggage and provisions.
Following the trail leading from the Platte to the Arkansas, or Rio Napeste, we
continued our way some thirty-five miles, and halted with a camp of free traders
and hunters, on Cherry creek.
This stream is an affluent of the Platte, from the southeast, heading in a broad
ridge of pine hills and rocks, known as the "Divide." It pursues its course for
nearly sixty miles, through a broad valley of rich soil, tolerably well timbered, and
shut in for the most part by high plats of table land, — at intervals thickly studded
with lateral pines, cedars, oaks, and shrubs of various kinds, —gradually
expanding its banks as it proceeds, and exchanging a bed of rock and pebbles
for one of quicksand and gravel, till it finally attains a width of nearly two hundred
yards, and in places is almost lost in the sand. The stream derives its name from
the abundance of cherry found upon it.
The country passed over from the Fort to this place, is generally sandy, but yields
quite a generous growth of grass. We passed, in our course, the dry beds of two
transient creeks, one eight, and the other fifteen miles from the Fort.
Our route bore nearly due south for twenty miles, following the Platte bottom to
the mouth of Cherry creek, thence southeast, continuing up the valley of the
latter. The Platte presented heavy groves of timber upon both banks, as did also
its islands, while its bottoms appeared fertile.
The mountains, some fifteen miles to our right, towering aloft with their snowcapped summits and dark frowning sides, looked like vast piles of clouds, big
with storm and heaped upon the lap of earth; while the vapor scuds that flitted
around them, seemed as the ministers of pent up wrath, in readiness to pour
forth their torrents and deluge the surrounding plains, or let loose the fierce
tornado and strew its path with desolation.
Three or four miles before reaching our present camp, we passed a village of the
Arapahos on its way to the mountains, in pursuit of game. With this the reader is
introduced to that nation for the first time, which affords me occasion to speak of
them more particularly.
The Arapahos are a tribe of prairie Indians, inhabiting the country bordering upon
the South Fork of the Platte and Arkansas rivers.
Their territory embraces an extent of about forty-five thousand square miles, a
portion of which is well watered and interspersed with numerous fertile spots.
Timber is rarely found, except in the creek bottoms and among the mountains. A
large section of it, however, is dry, sandy, and sterile, and almost entirely
timberless and destitute of water. The game of these regions includes all the
varieties common to the mountains, which are quite abundant. The territory also
possesses large mineral resources, and includes among its stores of hidden
wealth, gold, silver, copper, lead, iron, coal, soda, nitre, salt, and sulphur, with
vast beds of gypsum.
This nation boasts some five hundred and twenty-five lodges, numbering not far
from four thousand souls. In appearance, as well as manners and customs, they
assimilate the Sioux and Chyennes. Their insignia of nationality is a tattooed
breast, by which they are distinguished from neighboring tribes. They afford to
the observer the rare instance of increasing numbers in an Indian population.
The Arapahos since their first treaty with the whites, some fifteen years ago,
have maintained terms of the strictest friendship on their part. They have never
been known to kill or even injure a white man in the interval, and rarely to steal
from him any article of value. They seem to take pleasure in the bestowment of
kindness and hospitality upon such whenever in their power, but commonly in
expectation of reward, and are exceedingly annoying as beggars.
These Indians, though brave, are less warlike than contiguous tribes, being at
variance only with the Utahs and Pawnees, whose countries are severally
invaded as occasion serves, and often with success.
They possess considerable taste for trafficking, and regularly meet the Sioux,
Chyennes, Cumanches, and Kuyawas for that purpose, and many of them know
how to drive as good a bargain as the most expert Yankee.
Notwithstanding the many good qualities possessed by them, they are inferior to
their neighbors in morality. The Sioux and Chyennes are far more chaste, and
never indulge in the low practices common with the Arapahos. Virtue with the
former is guarded by the strictest vigilance and jealousy, while with the latter it is
made the minister of lust and is prostituted for a paltry bribe.
As yet no effort has been made for their improvement, though I regard them as
more susceptible of civilization than any other of the prairie tribes. They appear
to be great admirers of the manners, customs, arts, and mode of living prevalent
among the whites, and only lack the requisite instruction to become their
successful imitators.
The camp at which we are at present located consists of four lodges, three of
whites, and one of Blackfoot Indians.
Each of the whites has his squaw wife, and the usual accompaniment of ruddy
faced children. In regard to the latter, I must say they were more beautiful,
interesting, and intelligent than the same number of full-bloods, either of whites
or Indians.
These men were living after the fashion of their new-found relatives, and seemed
to enjoy themselves as well as circumstances would admit. They had a number
of horses, with the requisite supply of arms and ammunition, — the sure sources
of wealth and comfort in a country abounding with game.
The Indian family were relatives by marriage, and were one of some fifteen
lodges of Blackfeet among the Arapahos, who forsook their own nation, on
account of its uncompromising hostility to the whites. Quite a number of these
Indians have also joined the Sioux and Nesperces, for a like reason.
We were entertained very kindly by our new friends who spared no effort to
render our stay agreeable. Among the delicacies set before us, was one
deserving of notice, —it consisted of the fruit of prickly pears (cacti) boiled in
water for some ten or twelve hours till it became perfectly soft, when it was
compressed through a thin cloth into the fluid in which it had been boiled. This
forms a delicious variety in mountain fare, and one highly stimulating and
nutritious.
The immense quantities of cacti fruit found near the mountains, at the proper
season, render the above an entertainment not uncommon.
Sept. 13th. Again under way; after a ride of fifteen miles, night finds us at
Blackfoot-camp, snugly chambered in a spacious cave, to avoid the disagreeable
effects of a snow-storm that comes upon the reluctant prairie with all the
withering keenness of winter.
The cave affording us shelter is formed in an abrupt embankment of limestone,
that marks the eastern limits of a beautiful valley through which a small affluent of
Cherry creek traces its way. The floor is of dry gravel and rock, about fifty feet
long by fifteen wide, while upon one side a crystal spring presents its tempting
draughts. Thus chambered, a small fire soon rendered us comfortable and
happy, notwithstanding the dreary weather without.
Our course during the day bore southward, and led from the valley of Cherry
creek to an interesting plateau, furrowed at intervals by deep cañons, enclosing
broad bottoms of rich alluvion, and ridged upon either hand by high hills of pine
and ledges of naked rock.
The streams are generally timberless, —the soil of the highlands is of a red,
clayey mould, and quite fertile. Instead of the aridity incident to the neighboring
prairies, it is usually humid.
The country hereabouts, for an extent of upwards one thousand square miles, is
much subject to storms of rain, hail, snow, and wind, —and it is rarely a person
can pass through it without being caught by a storm of some kind. I can account
for this in no other way than by supposing it has some connection with the vast
quantities of minerals lying embedded iii its hills and valleys.
Sept. 14th. Morning was ushered in with a pleasant sunshine, that soon caused
the snow of the past night to yield beneath its melting influences.
When on the point of raising camp, an old grizzly bear made her appearance with
three cubs. An effort to approach her proved futile, — she, having snuffed the
closeness of danger with the breeze, made a hasty retreat with her offspring.
I allude to the above incident for this reason, that it is generally supposed the
bear produces but two at a birth.
Continuing our journey till late at night, we reached an affluent of Fontaine qui
Bouit, called Daugherty's creek, after travelling a distance of some thirty miles.
Here we remained for three or four days, to procure a further supply of
provisions.
The route from Blackfoot-camp, for the most part, led over a rough country,
interspersed with high piny ridges and beautiful valleys, sustaining a luxuriant
growth of vegetation, which is known as the Divide.
This romantic region gives rise to several large tributaries both of the Platte and
Arkansas, and furnishes the main branches of the Kansas. Its geological
classifications consist of sandstone, limestone, granite, and cretaceous rock.
Large quantities of silex are also found, together with many interesting
specimens of petrifaction that principally consist of pine wood; these, in many
cases, exhibit the tree in its perfect shape, with all the grains and pores that
marked its growth.
A ride of three hours took us past the heads of Bijou and Kuyawa, whose clear
and swift currents, confined to narrow beds, here presented a striking contrast to
those remarked at their confluence with the Platte.
Continuing on a few miles, we reached Black Squirrel creek, an affluent of the
Arkansas; and from thence, after a brisk trot for some fourteen miles over a
nearly level prairie, we came to our present camp.
Our place of stay was in sweet little valley enclosed by piny ridges. The entrance
leading to it is through a defile of hills from whose rugged sides protrude vast
piles of rock, that afford a pass of only fifty or a hundred yards in width. An
abundance of grass greets the eye, arrayed in the loveliness of summer's
verdancy, and blooming wild-flowers nod to the breeze as enchantingly as when
the fostering hand of spring first awoke them to life and to beauty.
The creek derives its name from Daugherty, a trader who was murdered upon it
several years since. At the time he was on his way to the Arkansas with a
quantity of goods, accompanied by a Mexican. The latter, anxious to procure a
few yards of calico that constituted a part of the freight, shot him in cold blood,
and hastened to Taos with his ill-gotten gains, where he unblushingly boasted of
his inhuman achievement.
My excursions among the hills brought before me many interesting geological
specimens, mostly such as characterize the Divide. I noticed two or three
extensive beds of stone coal in the vicinity of the creek, with an abundance of
nitre and other mineral salts.
Having killed three fine cows during the five days we remained at this place, the
scent of fresh meat attracted an old bear and her cub, which, in the expectation
of a choice repast, were induced to pay us a night visit.
We were quietly reposing at the time, nor dreamed of the ungainly monsters
within camp, till their harsh growls grated upon our ears and raised us each to a
speedy consciousness. Instantly every rifle was clenched and levelled at the
unwelcome intruders, and two discharges bespoke their warm reception. The
bears, not fancying this new test of friendship, quickly withdrew and permitted us
to resume our slumbers.
Fitzpatrick and Van Dusen, two old mountaineers, passed our encampment, in
the interim, on their way to the States. Having devoted a number of years to the
business of trapping, few possess a more intimate knowledge of this country than
they. The former of these gentlemen was on his return from Oregon with
dispatches for the U. S. Government, and had acted as pilot for a party of
emigrants to that territory during the previous summer. After conducting his
charge to their place of destination, he and his companion had travelled thus far
alone,39—a distance of more than one thousand miles.
Sept. 19th. Leaving Daugherty's creek we resumed our course, and reached the
Arkansas the next day, about noon. Here we encamped in a small grove of
cottonwood upon the right bank, a few miles above the mouth of Fontaine qui
Bouit.
In gaining this point we travelled some forty-five miles, mostly over a sandy
prairie, slightly undulating to the leftward, but, to the right, describing the waves
of a tempest-tossed ocean.
Its general character is sterility; the grass growing thinly and being of a coarse
kind, with the exception of that of the creek bottoms, which affords several
varieties of a lusty size, mingled with occasional spreads of préle — a choice
article for the subsistence of horses and mules.
In passing along, I observed a new species of the cacti family, that grew in a
shrub-like form to a height of five or six feet. Its stalk was round and fully an inch
in diameter.
This made the fourth variety of cactus noticed during the past few days. Of these,
two resemble the common "prickly pear" in their appearance. Another species,
however, was egg-shaped, bearing a fruit much like the cranberry in color and
form. At the proper season. it also produces a beautiful red flower, that emits a
most agreeable perfume, in some measure atoning for its dreaded intrusion upon
the path of the wayfarer.
Fontaine qui Bouit, or the Boiling Fountain, is the name bestowed upon a
considerable stream that heads under Pike's Peak, in lat. 38° 52' 10" north, long.
39
Before reaching the States, however, he was robbed of everything in his possession by a war-party of Pawnees, whom
he had imprudently suffered to obtain the advantage. He would, doubtless, have been killed had it not been for the
determined courage of Van Dusen. The latter, seizing his rifle, levelled it at the foremost and thus deterred a further
advance; then, by an adroit movement, breaking from them, set pursuit at defiance through his fleetness of foot. The
Pawnees, now well aware that further outrages would be made known and become a subject of investigation by the U. S.
Government, forbore their designs, and returned to Fitzpatrick his gun and one mule, with which he accomplished the
remainder of his journey alone. Van Dusen, having succeeded in reaching Bent's Fort on the Arkansas, reported his
companion as killed by them.
105° 22' 45" west from Greenwich, and pursues a southerly course till it unites
with the Arkansas.
This name is derived from two singular springs, situated within a few yards of
each other at the creek's head, both of which emit water in the form of vapor,
accompanied with a hissing noise—the one strongly impregnated with sulphur
and the other with soda.40
The soda water is fully as good as any manufactured for especial use and
sparkles and foams with equal effervescence. This spring, though at present
cool, is said to have been formerly quite the reverse. Some twenty years since,
the heat was sufficient to cook flesh in an half hour's time, if submerged in its
waters.
The Arapahos regard this phenomenon with awe, and venerate it as the
manifestation of the immediate presence of the Great Spirit. They call it the
Medicine Fountain, and seldom neglect to bestow their gifts upon it whenever an
opportunity is presented.
These offerings generally consist of robes, blankets, arrows, bows, knives,
beads, moccasins, &c., which they either throw into the water or hang upon the
surrounding trees. Sometimes a whole village will visit the place for the purpose
of paying their united regard to this sacred fountain.
The scenery of the vicinity is truly magnificent. A valley several yards in width
heads at the springs, overlooking which from the west in almost perpendicular
ascent tower the lofty summits of Pike's Peak, piercing the clouds and revelling in
eternal snow, at an altitude of 12,500 feet above the level of the sea.
40
Capt. Fremont, who visited Fontaine qui Bouit in the summer of '43, has furnish ad the following analysis of an
incrustation with which the water of this spring has covered a piece of wood; and, though probably not a fair test, it will
afford the reader some idea of its mineral properties:
Carbonate of lime - - -
92,25
Carbonate of magnesia -
1,21
Sulphate of lime
Chloride of calcium - - Chloride of magnesia
,23
Silica - -
1,50
Vegetable matter – ,26
Moisture end loss.. - -
4,61
100,00
This valley opens eastward, and is walled in upon the right and left, at the
mountains' base, by a stretch of high table land, surmounted by oaks and stately
pines, with now and then an interval displaying a luxuriant coating of grass. The
soil is a reddish loam, and very rich. The trees which skirt the creek as it traces
its way from the fountain are generally free from under-brush, and show almost
as much regularity of position as if planted by the hand of art. A lusty growth of
vegetation is sustained among them to their very trunks, which is garnished by
wild flowers, that, during the summer months, invest the whole scene with an
enchantment peculiar to itself.
The climate too is far milder in this than in adjoining regions, even of a more
southern latitude. 'Tis here "summer first unfolds her robes, and here the longest
tarries." The grass, continuing green the entire winter, here first feels the genial
touch of spring. Snow seldom remains upon the ground to exceed a single day,
even in the severest weather, while the neighboring hills and prairies present
their white mantlings for weeks in succession.
As the creek emerges from the mountains, it increases in size by the accession
of several tributaries, and the valley also expands to a width of three or four
miles, retaining for a considerable distance the distinguishing traits before
described.
The vicinity affords an abundance of game, among which are deer, sheep, bear,
antelope, elk, and buffalo, together with turkeys, geese, ducks, grouse,
mountain-fowls, and rabbits.
Affording, as it does, such magnificent and delightful scenery; such rich stores for
the supply of human wants, both to please the taste and enrapture the heart; so
heaven-like in its appearance and character, it is no wonder the untaught savage
reveres it as the place wherein the Good Spirit delights to dwell, and hastens with
his free-will offerings to the strange fountain, in the full belief that its bubbling
waters are the more immediate impersonation of Him whom he adores.
But, there are other scenes adjoining this, that demand a passing notice. A few
miles above Fontaine qui Bouit, and running parallel with the eastern base of the
mountain range, several hundred yards removed from it, a wall of coarse, red
granite (quite friable and constantly abrading) towers to a varied height of from
fifty to three hundred feet.
This wall is formed of immense strata, planted vertically and not exceeding eight
feet in thickness, with frequent openings — so arranged as to describe a
complete line.
The soil in which they appear is of a reddish loam, almost entirely destitute of
other rock, even to their very base.
This mural tier is isolated, and occupies its prairie site in silent majesty, as if to
guard the approaches to the stupendous monuments of nature's handiwork that
form the back-ground, disclosing itself to the beholder for a distance of more than
thirty miles.
CHAPTER XXI.
Vicinity of the Arkansas. Settlement. The Pueblo. Rio San Carlos, its valleys and
scenery. Shooting by moonlight. Taos. Review of the country travelled over.
Taos; its vicinity, scenery, and mines. Ranchos and Rancheros. Mexican houses;
their domestic economy, and filth. Abject poverty and deplorable condition of the
lower classes of Mexicans, with a general review of their character, and some of
the causes contributing to their present degradation. The Pueblo Indians and
their strange notions. Ancient temple. Character of the Pueblos. Journey to the
Uintah river, and observations by the way. Taos Utahs, Pa-utahs, Uintah and
Lake Utahs. The Diggers; misery of their situation, strange mode of lying, with a
sketch of their character. The Navijos; their civilization, hostility to Spaniards,
ludicrous barbarity, bravery, &c., with a sketch of their country, and why they are
less favorable to the whites than formerly.
THE Arkansas at this point is a clear and beautiful stream, about one hundred
and fifty yards wide. It flows over a bed of rock and pebbles, with a rapid current,
averaging two feet in depth. Its southern bank is steep and inducts to a high
sandy prairie, which present a somewhat sterile and denuded appearance. The
northern shore affords a wide bottom of black loam, generally fertile, and
timbered with occasional groves of cottonwood. Beyond this a high undulating
prairie, presenting now and then a cluster of pines and cedars, leads off to the
neighboring mountains.
The river above, for a distance of some forty miles, possesses many beautiful
valleys, well timbered, and a rich soil, until the traveller arrives at the place where
it makes its entree from the lofty mountain chain in which it heads.
The land indicates a fitness for agricultural purposes, and holds out strong
inducements to emigrants. A small settlement of whites and half-breeds,
numbering fifteen or twenty families, has already been commenced about thirty
miles above the mouth of Fontaine qui Bouit under quite favorable auspices. The
only fears entertained for its success, are on account of the Indians.
Many other localities in this vicinity are equally inviting were it not for the
character and habits of the surrounding natives.
At the delta, formed by the junction of Fontaine qui Bouit with the Arkansas, a
trading fort, called the Pueblo, was built during the summer of 1842. This post is
owned by a company of independent traders, on the common property system;.
and, from its situation, can command a profitable trade with both Mexicans and
Indians. Its occupants number ten or twelve Americans, most of whom are
married to Mexican women, while everything about the establishment wears the
aspect of neatness and comfort.
Sept. 22d. Crossing the Arkansas, I for the first time set foot upon Mexican soil.
Taking the Taos trail, we continued our way for ten or twelve miles and came to
the Rio San Carlos. Here the abundance of deer and turkeys was too great a
temptation to be resisted, and we remained several days to bestow upon them
that attention our appetites demanded.
The country adjacent is very romantic and beautiful. The hills, enclosing the
valley of the San Carlos upon both sides, are high and precipitous, —affording
numerous groves of pine, pinion,41 and cedar. Interspersed among them are
frequent openings and prairillons of rich soil and luxuriant vegetation. The valley
is narrow, but fertile and well timbered.
Near the head of the river is a broad area, known as Fisher's-hole, bounded upon
all sides by rugged hills and mountains, inaccessible except by a circuitous pass
leading into it from the south. The stream forces its egress through a ledge of
dark-colored rock, several hundred feet in altitude, leaving vertical walls upon
each side for a long distance, that frequently overhang the gurgling waters
sweeping at their base.
This valley contains more than a thousand acres of choice land, well supplied
with timber from the heavy pine forests surrounding it.
The prevailing rock is granite, sandstone, limestone, and lias, with occasional
conglomerates of various kinds. I noticed strong indications of copper and other
minerals; and the general appearance of the country led me to conclude it to be
one possessed of vast stores of hidden wealth.
While here, we were quite successful in replenishing our stock of provisions.
My experiments in turkey-hunting made me a proficient shot by moonlight, a feat
which adds materially to the sport. This is done by manoeuvring so as to have
the turkey in a direct line between the marksman and the moon, causing its
shadow to fall upon his face, —then, raising his rifle to a level from the ground
upwards, the instant the sight becomes darkened he fires, and, if his piece be
true, seldom fails to make a centre shot.
The most feasible mode of hunting turkeys is to watch their roosting places at
night; and, after the moon attains the required position, they may be killed by
dozens in the above manner. They rarely leave their roosts on account of the
firing; but remain, half stupefied with affright, while they are picked off one after
another by the practised hunter.
Sept. 25th. Again resuming our journey, we reached Taos on the 1st of October.
41
This tree is a species of pine, quite common in New Mexico, California, and some parts of the mountains. It yields a
kind of nut similar to that of the beech, which is esteemed as an article of food. Wild turkeys delight to frequent groves of
this timber, and will thrive in an extraordinary manner upon pinion-nuts.
Our stay at this place was prolonged for several days, during which time we took
boarding with a Mexican lady, the widow of an American trader.
The country travelled over en route, from the San Carlos to Taos is very rough
and mountainous, but variegated by many fertile valleys skirting the numerous
tributaries of the Arkansas and del Norte.
The trail crosses several of the latter streams, for the most part bearing an
easterly course; among which are the Cornua Virda, Huaquetore, Timpa,
Apache, and Pischepa.
These creeks frequently pass through deep cañons of sandstone and limestone
for a distance of several miles together, —disclosing upon all sides a wild and
romantic scenery. The great fault with the valleys is a lack of timber; the hills,
however, are generally supplied with pine, pinion, and cedar, which, in a
measure, atones for the above deficiency.
On leaving the Pischepa, a reach of little more than one jornada (day's travel)
leads over the mountain range, separating the waters of the Arkansas and del
Norte, at a point bearing a short distance to the left of two famous landmarks,
called the Spanish Peaks.
Here the traveller is at once ushered into the valley of Taos; and, continuing on,
in a brief interval finds himself surrounded by a clan of half-naked Mexicans.
Taos proper embraces several fertile lateral valleys bordering upon the del Norte,
and three small affluents from the east and is supposed to contain a population
of some ten thousand, including Indians, Moors, Half-breeds, Mulattoes, and
Spaniards. It is divided into several precincts, or neighborhoods, within short
distances of each other, among which Arroyo Hondo is the principal.
This section of country is very romantic, and affords many scenes to excite the
admiration of beholders. It is shut in by lofty mountains, upon three sides, that
tower to an altitude of several thousand feet, now presenting their pine-clad
summits among the clouds, now with denuded crests defying the tempest; and
then peering skyward to hold converse with the scathing blasts of unending
winter.
The mountains are rich in minerals of various kinds. Gold is found in
considerable quantities in their vicinity, and would doubtless yield a large profit to
diggers, were they possessed of the requisite enterprise and capital. At present
these valuable mines are almost entirely neglected, —the common people being
too ignorant and poor to work them, and the rich too indolent and fond of ease.
The Mexicans possess large ranchos of sheep, horses, mules, and cattle among
the mountains, which are kept there the entire year, by a degraded set of beings,
following no business but that of herdsmen, or rancheros.
This class of people have no loftier aspirations than to throw the lasso with
dexterity, and break wild mules and horses.
They have scarcely an idea of any other place than the little circle in which they
move, nor dream of a more happy state of existence than their own. Half-naked
and scantily fed, they are contented with the miserable pittance doled out to them
by the proud lordlings they serve, while their wild songs merrily echo through the
hills as they pursue their ceaseless vocations till death drops his dark curtain o'er
the scene.
There are no people on the continent of America, whether civilized or uncivilized,
with one or two exceptions, more miserable in condition or despicable in morals
than the mongrel race inhabiting New Mexico. In saying this, I deal in
generalities; but were I to particularize the observation would hold good in a large
majority of cases.
Next to the squalid appearance of its inhabitants, the first thing that arrests the
attention of the traveller on entering an Mexican settlement, is the uninviting mud
walls that form the rude hovels which constitute its dwellings.
These are one story high and built of adobies, with small windows, (like the portholes of a fortification,) generally without glass. The entrance is by an opening in
the side, very low, and frequently unprotected by a door. The roof is a terrace of
sod, reposing upon a layer of small logs, affording but poor protection from the
weather.
The interior presents an aspect quite as forbidding;—the floors are simply the
naked ground, —chairs and tables are articles rarely met with. In case of an extra
room, it is partitioned off by a thin wall of mud, communicating with its neighbor
through a small window-shaped aperture, and serves the double purpose of a
chamber and store-house.
A few rags, tattered blankets, or old robes, furnish beds for its inmates, who, at
nightfall, stow themselves away promiscuously upon the ground or in narrow
bins, and snooze their rounds despite the swarms of noxious vermin that infest
them, (companions from which they are seldom free, whether sleeping or waking,
—and afford them, perhaps, in greater number and variety of species than any
other known people.)
But before the picture is complete, we must be indulged in a brief sketch of their
kitchen economy.
Knives, forks, spoons, and plates, seldom grace the board of a Mexican in
common circumstances. A single pot of earth, a knife, two or three trenchers, and
as many water-gourds, constitute almost the entire kitchen furniture of the lower
classes;—a kind of gruel (tolle) made by stirring a few handfuls of flour into
boiling water or milk, is their principal subsistence.
Meat finds no place upon their larder, —it being an article too costly for ordinary
food, as the sheep and cattle of the country are owned by the wealthy, and by
their exorbitant demands placed beyond the means of the commoner. Wood too,
being two rials (25 cents) per mule-load, is seldom used in the large towns for
other than culinary purposes.
During the winter months, these filthy wretches are seen, day after day, basking
at the sunny side of their huts, and bestowing upon each other certain friendly
offices connected with the head, wherein the swarming populace of the
pericranium are had in alternate requisition. The entire business of the country is
in the hands of the rich, upon whom the laboring classes are mainly dependant
for support; and, as a natural consequence, the rich know no end to their
treasures, nor the poor to their poverty.
The common laborer obtains only from four to six dollars per month, out of which
he must feed and clothe himself. In case he runs in debt beyond his means, he is
necessitated by law to serve for the required amount, at two dollars per month;
—thus, once in debt, it is almost impossible ever to extricate himself.
But a thing adding still further to his load of misfortunes is the high price set upon
the necessaries and comforts of life. This ranges as follows: coffee, from 37 1/2
to 50 cts. per lb.; sugar, from 18 to 25 cts. per do.; calico, from 25 cts. to $1 per
yd.; domestic, 25 to 50 cts.; broadcloths, from $10 to $20, and every thing else in
proportion.
Under such circumstances, it is scarcely marvellous that we find the Mexican in
his present low state of degradation.
Having faintly depicted the real condition of a large majority of the degenerate
inhabitants of New Mexico, it will be expected of me to say something of their
intelligence and morality; and here a still more revolting task awaits my effort.
Intelligence is confined almost exclusively to the higher classes, and the poor
"palavro" comes in for a very diminutive share.
Education is entirely controlled by the priests, who make use of their utmost
endeavors to entangle the minds of their pupils in the meshes of superstition and
bigotry. The result of this may be plainly stated in a few words:
Superstition and bigotry are universal,— all, both old and young, being tied down
to the disgusting formalities of a religion that manifests itself in little else than
senseless parade and unmeaning ceremony, —while a large majority can neither
read nor write.
These conservators of intelligence and morals are often as sadly deficient in
either as those they assume to teach. Gambling, swearing, drinking, Sabbathbreaking, and sundry other vices, are the too frequent concomitants of their
practice;— under such instructors, who can fail to foresee the attendant train of
evils? The abject condition of the people favors the impress of unsound
instruction and deteriorating example, reducing public morals to a very low ebb.
Property and life are alike unsafe, and a large proportion of the whole community
are little other than thieves and robbers. Profanity is their common language. In
their honesty, integrity, and good faith, as a general thing, no reliance should be
placed. They are at all times ready to betray their trust whenever a sufficient
inducement is presented.
With the present of a few dollars, witnesses may be readily obtained to swear to
anything; and a like bonus placed in the hands of the Alcaldi will generally secure
the required judgment, however much at variance with the true merits of the
cause.
Thus, justice becomes a mere mockery, and crime stalks forth at noonday,
unawed by fear of punishment, and unrebuked by public opinion and practice.
But fear, in most cases, exercises a far more controlling influence over them than
either gratitude or favor. They may be ranked with the few exceptions in the
family of man who cannot endure good treatment. To manage them successfully,
they must needs be held in continual restraint, and kept in their place by force, if
necessary, —else they will become haughty and insolent.
As servants, they are excellent, when properly trained, but are worse than
useless if left to themselves.
In regard to the Mexican women, it would be unfair to include them in the
preceding summary.
The ladies present a striking contrast to their countryman in general character,
other than morals. They are kind and affectionate in their disposition, mild and
affable in their deportment, and ever ready to administer to the necessities of
others. But, on the score of virtue and common chastity, they are sadly deficient;
while ignorance and superstition are equally predominant.
One of the prime causes in producing this deplorable state of things may be
attributed to that government policy which confines the circulating medium of the
country within too narrow limits, and thus throws the entire business of the
country into the hands of the capitalist.
A policy like this must ever give to the rich the moneyed power, while it drains
from the pockets of the poor man and places him at the mercy of haughty
lordlings, who, taking advantage of his necessity, grant him but the scanty
pittance for his services they in tender compassion see fit to bestow.
The higher classes have thus attained the supreme control, and the commoners
must continue to cringe and bow to their will. In this manner the latter have, by
degrees, lost all ambition and self-respect, —and, in degradation, are only
equalled by their effeminacy.
Possessed of little moral restraint, and interested in nothing but the demands of
present want, they abandon themselves to vice, and prey upon one another and
those around them.
Acting upon the principle, that "necessity knows no law," they know no law for
necessity, and help themselves without compunction to whatever chance throws
in their way.
To this we may also look for a reason why the entire country is so infested with
banded robbers, that scour it continually in quest of plunder. Mankind are
naturally vicious; and, when necessity drives them to wrong for the procurement
of a bare subsistence, they are not slow to become adepts in the practice of evil.
A few miles to the southeast of Taos, is a large village of Pueblos, or civilized
Indians. These are far superior to their neighbors in circumstances, morals, civil
regulations, character, and all the other distinguishing traits of civilization.
This race are of the genuine Mexican stock, and retain many of their ancient
customs, though nominally Catholic in their religion.
Cherishing a deep-rooted animosity towards their conquerors, they only wait a
favorable opportunity to re-assert their liberty.
They live in houses built of stone and earth, and cultivate the ground for
subsistence, —own large herds of cattle, horses, and sheep, —while their
women spin and weave, with no small pretensions to skill.
Among their peculiarities is the belief, still entertained by many of them, that
Montezuma, their former emperor, will yet return from the Spirit Land, and,
placing himself at the head of his people, enable them to overcome the
despoilers of his ancient dominions.
In this strange faith a fire was kept burning without intermission, from the death of
Montezuma till within ten years past, (a period of nearly three centuries,) as a
beacon-light to mark the place for his appearing.
This fire was sustained by an ancient order of priests ministering at a temple of
unknown age, the ruins of which, it is said, are yet to be seen two miles back
from St. Miguel, in a very good state of preservation. By verbal descriptions
received from those who have visited them, I am led to infer that they afford
many curious and interesting evidences of Mexican grandeur and tend to shed
much light upon their former history and religion.
The sculpture is said to represent men and animals of different kinds, in many
strange varieties of shape and posture; among them are beasts, birds, and
reptiles, some of which are of unknown species.
The workmanship is rather rude and without much regard to uniformity or
proportion of parts, yet possessing a wild beauty and harmony peculiar to itself
alone, that at once strikes the beholder with feelings of pleasing wonder.
I had cherished the intention of visiting personally these strange relics of the
past, but was induced to defer it for a more convenient opportunity than the
present; and, finally, from my subsequent connection with the Texans, I
abandoned it altogether.
The Pueblos number a population of several thousand, and are scattered over a
considerable extent of territory. They bestow much attention to the inculcation of
good morals in the minds of their children; and, in portraying the pernicious
effects of evil-doing, frequently admonish them in a quaint and expressive
manner, —" If you do thus and so, you will become as bad as a Spaniard!"—This
seems to constitute, in their opinion, the grand climax of everything vile and
degrading.
They are represented as humane and brave, and strictly honest and upright in
their dealings. Their women too are chaste and virtuous, and in this respect
present a very favorable contrast to their fairer and more beautiful sisters of
Spanish extraction.
A small party from a trading establishment on the waters of Green river, who had
visited Taos for the procurement of a fresh supply of goods, were about to return,
and I availed myself of the occasion to make one of their number.
On the 7th of October we were under way. Our party consisted of three
Frenchmen and five Spaniards, under the direction of a man named Roubideau,
formerly from St. Louis, Mo. Some eight pack-mules, laden at the rate of two
hundred and fifty pounds each, conveyed a quantity of goods; these headed by a
guide followed in Indian file, and the remainder of the company mounted on
horseback brought up the rear.
Crossing the del Norte, we soon after struck into a large trail bearing a westerly
course; following which, on the 13th inst. we crossed the main ridge of the Rocky
Mountains by a feasible pass at the southern extremity of the Sierra de Anahuac
range, and found ourselves upon the waters of the Pacific.
Six days subsequent, we reached Roubideau's Fort, at the forks of the Uintah,
having passed several large streams in our course, as well as the two principal
branches which unite to form the Colorado. This being the point of destination,
our journey here came to a temporary close.
The intermediate country, from Taos to the Uintah, is generally very rough and
diversified with rich valleys, beautiful plateaux, (tierras templadas.) arid prairies,
sterile plains, (llanos,) and denuded mountains.
We usually found a sufficiency of timber upon the streams, as well as among the
hills, where frequent groves of pinion, cedar, and pine lent an agreeable diversity
to the scene. Game appeared in great abundance nearly the whole route, —
especially antelope and deer.
The prevailing rock consisted of several specimens of sandstone, puddingstone,
and granite, with limestone, (fossiliferous, bituminous and argillaceous,) and
basalt.
This territory is owned by the Utahs and Navijo Indians.
The former of these tribes includes four or five divisions, and inhabits the country
laying between the Rio del Norte, the Great Salt Lake, and the vast desert to the
southward of it. These different fractions are known as the Taos, Pa-utah,
Digger, and Lake Utahs, numbering in all a population of fifteen thousand or
more, and exhibiting many peculiarities of character and habits distinct from each
other.
The Taos Utahs are a brave and warlike people, located upon the del Norte a
short distance to the northwest of Taos. These subsist principally by hunting, but
raise large numbers of horses. They are generally treacherous and ill-disposed,
making alike troublesome neighbors to the Spaniards and dangerous opponents
to the whites, whenever an opportunity is presented.
The Pa-utahs and Lake Utahs occupy the territory lying south of the Snakes, and
upon the waters of the Colorado of the west, and south of the Great Salt Lake.
These Indians are less warlike in their nature, and more friendly in their
disposition, than the Taos Utahs. The persons and property of whites, visiting
them for trade or other purposes, are seldom molested; and all having dealings
with them, so far as my information extends, unite to give them a good character.
They rarely go to war, and seem content to enjoy the blessings of peace, and
follow the chase within the limits of their own hunting grounds.
The Diggers or rather a small portion of them, are a division of the Utah nation,
inhabiting a considerable extent of the barren country directly southwest of the
Great Salt Lake. They are represented as the most deplorably situated, perhaps,
of the whole family of man, in all that pertains to the means of subsistence and
the ordinary comforts of life.
The largest (and in fact, almost the only) game found within their territory, is a
very small species of rabbit, whose skins sewed together constitute their entire
clothing. The soil is too barren for cultivation, sparsely timbered, and but illy
supplied with water. The consequence of these accumulated disadvantages is,
that its unfortunate inhabitants are left to gather a miserable substitute for food
from insects, roots, and the seeds of grass and herbs.
In the summer months they lay in large supplies against the approach of winter,
—ants furnishing an important item in the strange collection.
These insects abound in great numbers, and are caught by spreading a
dampened skin, or fresh-peeled bark, over their hills, which immediately attracts
the inquisitive denizens to its surface; when filled, the lure is carefully removed
and its adherents shaken into a tight sack, where they are confined till dead, —
they are then thoroughly sun-dried, and laid away for use.
In this manner they are cured by the bushel. The common way of eating them is
in an uncooked state. These degraded beings live in holes dug in the sand near
some watercourse, or in rudely constructed lodges of absinthe, where they
remain in a semi-dormant, inactive state the entire winter, —leaving their lowly
retreats only, now and then, at the urgent calls of nature, or to warm their
burrows by burning some of the few scanty combustibles which chance may
afford around them.
In the spring they creep from their holes, not like bear-fattened from a long
repose—but poor and emaciated, with barely flesh enough to hide their bones,
and so enervated, from hard fare and frequent abstinence, that they can scarcely
move.
So habituated are they to this mode of life from constant inurement, they appear
to have no conception of a better one.
Their ideas and aspirations are as simple as their fare. Give them an occasional
rabbit, with an abundance of ants, seeds, and roots, and they are content to
abide in their desert home and burrow like the diminutive animal they hunt.
They entertain great dread of the whites, whose power to do them harm they
have learned on several occasions by bitter experience. These painful lessons
have generally been inculcated as follows: impelled by hunger, these miserable
creatures have sometimes attempted to kill the animals of trapping parties; and
the trappers, in order to prevent a repetition of such occurrences, have been
accustomed to shoot down their rude assailants without mercy.
Since the practice of this summary mode of chastisement has obtained, those
able to run will flee with the utmost consternation on the approach of a party of
whites, —leaving the feeble and infirm in the rear, who employ their most piteous
supplications and moving entreaties for mercy.
These Indians possess a capacity for improvement, whenever circumstances
favor them. I have seen several, both of men and women, taken from among
them while young, who, under proper instruction, had made rapid progress, and
even disclosed a superiority of intellect, compared with like examples from other
nations, —a fact contributing much to prove that mankind need only to be placed
in like conditions by birth and education to stand upon the same common level.
Most of them are represented as inoffensive in their habits and character, —
never going to war, and rarely molesting any one that passes through their
country.
Their arms are clubs, with small bows and arrows made of reeds — affording but
a poor show of resistance to rifles, and a dozen mountaineers are rendered
equal to a full army of such solders.
The Navijos occupy the country between the del Norte and the Sierra Anahuac,
situated upon the Rio Chama and Puerco, —from thence extending along the
Sierra de los Mimbros, into the province of Sonora.
They are a division of the ancient Mexicans that have never yet fully succumbed
to Spanish domination, and still maintain against the conquerors of their country
an obstinate and uncompromising warfare.
Like their ancestors, they possess a civilization of their own. Most of them live in
houses built of stone, and cultivate the ground, —raising vegetables and grain for
a subsistence. They also grow large quantities of horses, cattle, and sheep —
make butter and cheese, and spin and weave
The blankets manufactured by these Indians are superior in beauty of color,
texture, and durability, to the fabrics of their Spanish neighbors. I have frequently
seen them so closely woven as to be impervious to water, and even serve for its
transportation.
The internal regulations of this tribe are represented, by those more intimately
acquainted with them, as in strict accordance with the welfare of the whole
community. Lewdness is punished by a public exposure of the culprit; dishonesty
is held in check by suitable regulations; industry is encouraged by general
consent, and hospitality by common practice.
In their warfare with the Spaniards, they frequently exhibit a strange mixture of
humanity and ludicrous barbarity.
They never kill women or children when in their power, but retain them as
prisoners. The men, however, are invariably dispatched.
But in the latter, a comedy not unfrequently precedes the tragedy which closes
the scene. Taking their cue from the passionate fondness of the Spaniards for
dancing, at times, when any one of these unfortunate wretches falls into their
power, they form a ring around him, and provided with switches, compel him to
dance until from exhaustion he can do so no longer, after which he is unfeelingly
butchered. His cruel tormenters continue singing, as they force him to dance his
own death dirge, and laugh at his faltering steps.
As warriors they are brave and daring, and make frequent and bold excursions
into the Spanish settlements, driving off vast herds of cattle, horses, and sheep,
and spreading terror and dismay on every side. As diplomatists, in imitation of
their neighbors, they make and break treaties whenever interest or inclination
prompts them.
The Navijo country is shut in by high mountains, inaccessible from without,
except by limited passes, through narrow defiles well situated for defence on the
approach of an invading foe.
Availing themselves of these natural advantages, they have continued to
maintain their ground against fearful odds, nor have they ever suffered the
Spaniards to set foot within their territory as permanent conquerors.
The valleys of the Chama and its tributaries are said to be unrivalled in beauty,
and possessed of a delightful climate, as well as an exuberant fertility of soil. In
these valleys winter is comparatively unknown and vegetation attains an
extraordinary size. The mountains abound with game, and are rich in all kinds of
minerals. Some of the most valuable gold mines in Mexico are supposed to be
held by the Navijos. I have conversed with several Americans who have travelled
to considerable extent in the territory of these Indians, and all unite to speak of it
in most flattering terms.
The Catholics maintain numerous missions among them, and have succeeded in
propagating their peculiar religious notions to some extent, notwithstanding their
continued hostilities with the Spaniards.
The Navijos are generally friendly to the Americans visiting them; but were
formerly much more so than at present. This partial estrangement may be
attributed to the depredations of a party of Americans, under the lead of one
Kirker, who were employed by the governments of Santa Fe and Chihuahua, to
oppose their incursions. This was done with great success — the mercenaries
despoiling their property, butchering their warriors, and bearing off men, women,
and children, as captives to be sold into slavery.
CHAPTER XXII.
Uintah trade. Snake Indians; their country and character. Description of Upper
California. The Eastern Section. Great Salt Lake and circumjacent country.
Desert. Digger country, and regions south. Fertility of soil. Prevailing rock and
minerals. Abundance of wild fruit, grain, and game. Valley of the Colorado.
Magnificent scenery. Valleys of the Uintah and other rivers. Vicinity of the Gila.
Face of the country, soil &c. Sweet spots. Mildness of climate, and its
healthiness. The natives. Sparsity of inhabitants. No government. All about the
Colorado and Gila rivers. Abundance of fish. Trade in pearl oyster-shells.
Practicable routes from the United States.
IN preceding remarks relative to regions coming under present observation, I
have confined myself to generalities, for the reason, that less interest is felt by
the American public, in a minute description of the rivers, mountains, valleys,
etc., so far within the limits of Mexico, than in one connected with U. S.
Territories; consequently the reader must rest contented with greater
conciseness in subsequent pages, until he is again introduced to the interesting
localities of his own country.
Roubideau's Fort is situated on the right bank of the Uintah, in lat. 40° 27' 45"
north, long. 109° 56’ 42" west. The trade of this post is conducted principally with
the trapping parties frequenting the Big Bear, Green, Grand, and the Colorado
rivers, with their numerous tributaries, in search of fur-bearing game.
A small business is also carried on with the Snake and Utah Indians, living in the
neighborhood of this establishment. The common articles of dealing are horses,
with beaver, otter, deer, sheep, and elk skins, in barter for ammunition, fire-arms,
knives, tobacco, beads, awls, &c.
The Utahs and Snakes afford some of the largest and best finished sheep and
deer skins I ever beheld — a single skin sometimes being amply sufficient for
common sized pantaloons. These skins are dressed so neatly as frequently to
attain a snowy whiteness, and possess the softness of velvet.
They may be purchased for the trifling consideration of eight or ten charges of
ammunition each, or two or three awls, or any other thing of proportional value.
Skins are very abundant in these parts, as the natives, owing to the scarcity of
buffalo, subsist entirely upon small game, which is found in immense quantities.
This trade is quite profitable. The articles procured so cheaply, when taken to
Santa Fe and the neighboring towns, find a ready cash market at prices ranging
from one to two dollars each.
The Snakes, or Shoshones, live in the eastern part of Oregon and in Upper
California, upon the waters of the Great Snake and Bear rivers, and the two
streams which unite to form the Colorado.
They are friendly to the whites, and less disposed to appropriate to their own use
everything they can lay hands on, than some other tribes. They seldom go to
war, though by no means deficient in bravery, —frequently resisting with signal
success the hostile encroachments of the Sioux and Chyennes. Rich in horses
and game, they likewise include within their territory many interesting and
beautiful localities, as well as some extraordinary natural curiosities.
One division of this tribe is identified with the Diggers in habits and mode of
living, —the same causes operating in each case to produce the same results.
Another division is identified with the Crows, and yet a third one with the Utahs,
—numbering in all not far from twelve thousand.
Being less migratory in their habits, and more tractable in their disposition than
those of their eastern brethren demontés, they are far more susceptible of
civilization and improvement; though, as yet, nothing has been done for their
benefit. The missionary might here find an encouraging field for his philanthropic
exertions.
With the passage of the mountain chain, noticed in the preceding chapter, the
reader is inducted to the northeastern extremity of California. My intention of
visiting the interior of this interesting province of the Mexican Republic was
frustrated through the lack of a convenient opportunity for its prosecution; but, as
the public mind, during the past few years, has been so much occupied with
subjects connected with this country, I am unwilling to pass on without presenting
a brief description of it, obtained from sources upon which full reliance may be
placed.
The following sketch, coupled with my own observations, is carefully arranged
from information derived from individuals encountered during my stay in this
country, some of whom had travelled over most of it, and others had resided for
years within its confines.
On referring to the map, a large extent of country will be noticed, bounded upon
the north by Oregon, east by the Rocky Mountains, south by the Lower Province
and Gulf of California, together with the Rio Gila which separates it from Sonora,
and west by the Pacific, situated between parallels 32° and 42° north latitude,
which is now known as Upper California.
This embraces an extent of nearly 450,000 square miles, and is walled in for the
most part upon the north and east by lofty mountains, impassable except at
certain points; while upon the west and south its vast stretch of seacoast,
navigable rivers, and commodious harbors open it to the commercial intercourse
of all nations.
The entire country is more or less broken by hills and mountains, many of them
towering to a height of several thousand feet above the level of the sea, whose
summits, clothed with eternal snow, overlook the valleys of perennial verdure that
so frequently lie around them. The most noted of these is the California, or
Cascade range, which, by intersecting the province from north to south,
separates it into two grand natural divisions, properly denominated Eastern and
Western California.
The above range, though higher than the principal chain of the Rocky Mountains,
is passable at various points. It is situated inland from the Pacific at distances
varying from one hundred and fifty to four hundred miles, tracing its way with
diminished altitude adown the isthmus that forms the Lower Province.
Owing to its locality, a description of the Eastern Division seems to come
naturally the first in order.
This section is watered principally by the Colorado, Gila, and Bear rivers, with
their numerous tributaries, and has also several lakes in various parts of it,
prominent among which is the Great Salt Lake near the northern boundary.
This large body of water is nearly one hundred and fifty miles long by eighty
broad; and, though the receptacle of several large rivers, has no visible outlet,
and hence is supposed by many persons to hold subterranean connection with
the Ocean. Its waters are so strongly impregnated with salt, incrustations of that
mineral are frequently found upon its shores.
Towards the northern extremity an island makes its appearance, from whose
centre a solitary mountain rises in proud majesty for nearly a thousand feet
above the circumfluent waters; its craggy sides, naked and desolate, with
whitened surface, now inspire the beholder with feelings of awe, while its
bounding streamlets, skirted with verdant openings and diminutive trees, strike
the eye pleasantly, as the sheen of their waters falls upon the vision and
engenders commingled sensations of delight and admiration.
Viewed from the northern shore, this island seems not more than twelve miles
distant; a deception caused by the extraordinary purity of the atmosphere.
Several attempts to reach it, however, by means of canoes, have proved futile,
owing to its great distance the dangerous state of navigation.
It is thought by many persons that still other islands of larger dimensions occupy
the centre of the lake, and not without some show of reason; there is ample room
for them, and, although this vast body of water has been circum-traversed per
shore, it has never yet been otherwise explored by man.42
The largest of the rivers that find their discharge in this vast saline reservoir is the
Big Bear, a stream which rises near the South Pass, and, following its
42
Recently, however, Capt. Fremont reports his having succeeded in reaching the island nearest to the northern shore,
but he was unfortunately prevented a further exploration. In his account of this he makes no mention of trees or streams
of water upon the mountain. I have described it only as it appears when viewed from the main land.
meanderings, is about two hundred and fifty or three hundred miles in length. It
rolls leisurely on with its deep sluggish volume of waters, measuring some two
hundred yards wide at its mouth, and deposites its willing tribute into the bosom
of this miniature ocean, while four or five other fresh water affluents from the east
and south make a like debouche without increasing its size or diminishing its
saltness.
The valleys of these streams possess a very rich soil and are well timbered. The
landscape adjacent to the lake is diversified with marshes, plains, highlands, and
mountains, affording every variety of scenery. The soil is generally fertile and
prolific in all kinds of vegetation as well as fruits indigenous to the country.
Timber also abounds in sufficient quantity for all necessary purposes Game too
is found in great abundance, particularly deer and elk; and, taken as a whole, the
vicinity of the Great Salt Lake holds out strong inducements to settlers, and is
capable of sustaining, as it will no doubt ultimately possess, a dense population.
Forty or fifty miles west and south from this the traveller is inducted to the vast
expanse of sand and gravel, lying between lat. 35° and 40° north, which is almost
entirely destitute of both wood and water.
This reach is upwards of three hundred miles in length and nearly two hundred
broad. It is impassable at all seasons of the year on account of its extreme
dryness and lack of suitable nourishment for animals; and even a trip from Santa
Fe to Western California, by the regular trail, is rarely undertaken except in the
fall and spring months, at which time the ground is rendered moist by annual
rains and the transient streams venture to emerge from their sandy hiding places.
The Digger country, of which I have taken occasion to speak in connection with
its unfortunate inhabitants, lies upon the eastern and southern extremities of this
desolate waste, and presents an aspect little less forbidding.
As a general thing the landscape is highly undulating and varied with conical
hills, some of which are mere heaps of naked sand or sun-baked clay of a whitish
hue; others, vast piles of granitic rock, alike destitute of vegetation or timber;
while yet others are clothed with a scanty herbage and occasional clusters of
stunted pines and cedars.
Now and then a diminutive vega intervenes in favorable contrast to the
surrounding desolation, greeting the beholder with its rank grasses, mingled with
blushing prairie-flowers. But such beauty-spots are by no means frequent.
The watercourses are mere beds of sand, skirted with sterile bottoms of stiff clay
and gravel, and afford streams only at their heads, while, for nearly the entire
year, both dew and rain are unknown. Vegetation, consequently, is sparse and
unpromising, and the whole section of necessity remains depopulated of game.
It is needless to say such a country can never become inhabited by civilized
man.
Between the Colorado river and the California mountains, south of the cheerless
desert above described, the prospect is far more flattering. The hills are of varied
altitude and are usually clothed with grass and timber; while comparatively few of
them are denuded to any great extent. The landscape is highly picturesque and
pleasingly diversified with mountains, hills, plains, and valleys, which afford every
variety of climate and soil.
This section is principally watered by the Rio Virgen and lateral streams; and,
though little or no rain falls in the summer months, the copiousness of nightly
dews in some measure make up for this defect.
The superfice of the valleys ranges from one to three feet in depth, and generally
consists of sedimentary deposites and the debris of rocks, borne from the
neighboring hills by aqueous attrition, which, mingled with a dark-colored loam
compounded of clay and sand, and various organic and vegetable remains, unite
to form a soil of admirable fecundity, rarely equal led by that of any other country.
The hills, however, are unfit for cultivation to any great extent, owing to their
common sterility as well as the abundance of rock in many parts; yet they might
serve a good purpose for grazing lands.
The prevailing rock is said to be sandstone, limestone, mica slate, trap, and
basalt; the minerals, copper, iron, coal, salt, and sulphur.
Game exists in great abundance, among which are included antelope, deer,
(black and white-tailed,) elk, bear, and immense quantities of waterfowls; large
herds of wild horses and cattle, also, are not unfrequently met with.
Timber is usually a scarce article, which constitutes one grand fault in the entire
section of Eastern California. This evil, however, is partially remedied by a mild
climate, and only a comparatively small amount of wood is required for building,
fencing, and fuel.
Fruits of all kinds indigenous to the country, particularly grapes, are found in
great profusion, and those native only to the torrid and temperate zones may also
be successfully cultivated.
Among the grasses, grains, and vegetables growing spontaneously in some
parts, are red-clover and oats, (which attain a most luxuriant bulk,) flax and
onions; the latter not unfrequently equalling in size the proudest products of the
far-farmed gardens of Wethersfield.
We are now naturally led back to the Colorado, and the country lying between it
and the Sierra de los Mimbros range, on the east. This division embraces much
choice land in its valleys, but the high grounds and hills present much of the
dryness and sterility incident to the grand prairies.
The valley of the Colorado averages from five to fifteen miles broad, for a
distance of nearly two hundred miles above its mouth.
Further on, the passage of the river through high mountains and tierras
templadas (table lands) presents an almost continuous gorge of vertical and
overhanging rocks, that, closing in upon the subfluent stream at a varied height
of from fifteen to six hundred or even a thousand feet, afford only an occasional
diminutive opening to its waters.
This vast cañon is said to extend for five or six hundred miles, interrupting the
river with numerous cataracts, cascades and rapids, and opposing to its swift
current the sharp fragments of severed rocks thrown from the dizzy eminences,
as breakers, by which to lash the gurgling waters and depict the more than
tempest-tossed foam and maddened fury of old ocean!
In some places the impending rocks approach so near to each other from above,
a person may almost step across the vast chasm opening to view the foaming
river, half obscured in perpendicular distance and dimmed by the eternal
shadows of thrice vertical walls.
This superbly magnificent scene continues nearly the entire extent, from the
head of the Colorado valley to the boundary between Oregon and California.
The table lands and mountains on both sides, as a whole, disclose a dreary
prospect. Now, the traveller meets with a wide reach of naked rock paving the
surface to the exclusion of grass, shrubs, or tree, —now, a narrow fissure, filled
with detritus and earth, sustains a few stunted pines, now, a spread of hard sunbaked clay refuses root to aught earth-growing, now, a small space of saline
efflorescences obtrudes upon the vision its snowy incrustations, alike repulsive to
vegetable life — then, comes a broad area clothed with thin coarse grass; an
opening vallon next greets the eye in the generous growth of its herbage and the
fertility of its soil; a beautiful grove of stately pines, cedars, and pinions, rises in
the back ground; a still larger, more expansive, and thrice lovely valley, skirts the
banks of some bounding stream, and delights the fancy with its smiling flowers
and luxuriant verdure.
Here, a huge mountain rears itself in majesty—now, piling heaps upon heaps of
naked granite, limestone, sandstone, and basalt, variegated and parti-colored, —
now, thickly studded with lateral pines, cedars, pinions, and hemlocks, —then,
again denuded, till at last its sharpened peaks pierce the clouds while storms and
tempests in their wild orgies haste to do it reverence: There, a lesser, coniform
elevation of the continuous chain, is mantled in living green; while perhaps by its
side, another pains the eye with the well defined lineaments of desolation.
A country of this description occupies nearly the whole interval from the two main
branches of the Colorado to the dividing ridge of mountains.
The valleys of the Uintah, and several other affluents within its limits, however,
are broad, fertile and tolerably well timbered. Grass continues green nearly the
entire winter, and game of all kinds common to the mountains, excepting buffalo,
is abundant. The valley soils are well adapted to cultivation, and might sustain a
large population.
We come now to the southeastern extremity of the province, bordering upon the
Rio Gila which separates it from Sonora, and lying between the Colorado and the
Sierra de los Mimbros range.
This stretch, though less fertile as a general thing, partakes of much the same
characteristics as that upon the opposite side of the Colorado, and upon Rio
Virgen, south of the Digger country, which was so fully described upon a former
page. The soil, however, is not generally so sandy, and the landscape is far more
rough and broken. The bottoms of the Colorado and Gila, with their tributaries,
are broad, rich, and well timbered. Everything in the shape of vegetation attains a
lusty size, amply evincing the exuberant fecundity of the soil producing it.
There are many sweet spots in the vicinity of both these streams, well deserving
the name of earthly Edens. Man here might fare sumptuously, with one continued
feast spread before him by the spontaneous products of the earth, and revel in
perennial spring or luxuriate amid unfading summer.
Yet, notwithstanding the other attractions held out, game is much less plentiful in
this than in other parts, —probably owing to the warmth of the climate.
Winter is unknown, and the only thing that marks its presence from that of other
seasons, is a continuation of rainy and damp weather for some two or three
months. All the wild fruits and grains indigenous to the country are found here in
profuse abundance.
The entire Eastern Division of Upper California possesses a uniformly salubrious
and healthful atmosphere. Sickness, so far as my knowledge extends, is rarely
known.
The natives, for the most part, may be considered friendly, or at least, not
dangerous. Some of them, in the neighborhood of the Gila and the Gulf of
California are partially advanced in civilization, and cultivate the ground, raising
corn, melons, pumpkins, beans, potatoes, &c.
These live in fixed habitations, constructed of wood, and coated with earth, in a
conical form, much like Pawnee huts.
The condition and character of these tribes present most flattering inducements
for missionary enterprise; and, should efforts for their amelioration be put forth by
zealous and devoted men, (and meet with no counteracting opposition from the
united influence of the Mexican Government and the narrow minded bigotry of an
intolerant clergy and priest-ridden people,) a glorious fruition of their most
sanguine hopes might soon be expected.
There are no settlements of either whites or Mexicans, to my knowledge,
throughout the whole extent of this territory. Indians may, therefore, be
considered its only inhabitants, other than the strolling parties of trappers and
traders that now and then travel it, or temporarily establish themselves within its
limits. Of course then the Eastern Division of Upper California must be
considered without a people or a government.
The Rio Colorado rises in the U. S. territory about lat. 42° 30' north, interlocking
with the head waters of the Columbia, Missouri, Platte, and Arkansas, and
empties into the Gulf of California near lat. 32° north. Following its windings it is
some twelve or fifteen hundred miles in length. This stream with its numerous
tributaries is the only river worth naming in Eastern California, and, to a great
extent, serves to water that country. Owing to the rapidity of its current and its
frequent falls and cascades, the navigation is entirely destroyed, till within about
one hundred miles of its mouth, at the head of tide water; from this on no further
interruption occurs, and the depth is sufficient for vessels bearing several
hundred tons burthen.
The Gila is properly a river of Sonora, though commonly regarded as the
northern boundary of that province. It rises in the Sierra de los Mimbros, near lat.
33° 25' north, long. 106° 15' west from Greenwich, and pursues a westsouthwesterly course till it discharges itself into the Bay of the Colorodo, at lat.
32° 15' north, long. 114° 27' west.
Its whole length is about eight hundred miles, for most of which distance
navigation is impracticable, with the exception of some forty miles or more at its
mouth.
These two rivers are said to afford immense quantities of fish, especially near
their confluence with the Gulf of California.
The Gulf also contains a large variety and exhaustless supplies of the finny tribe,
together with several species of the crustaceous and testaceous order. Among
the last named are lobsters, crabs, clams, and oysters.
Oysters are very numerous and of an excellent quality, including in variety the
genuine mother pearl. A small trade in the shells of the pearl oyster is carried on
with the Arapahos, Chyennes, and Sioux, by the Spaniards, which yields a very
large profit, —a single shell frequently bringing from six to eight robes. These
Indians make use of them for ear-ornaments, and exhibit no little taste in their
shape and finish.
The eastern section of Upper California is accessible by land as well as sea from
several feasible passes. through the mountain ranges forming its eastern
boundary.
The best land routes for waggons from the United States is through the South
Pass, —hence, to the Great Salt Lake by Bear river valley, —thence the emigrant
can direct his course to any part of the country, as interest or inclination may
suggest.
Another pass is afforded by way of the Santa Fe trail near lat. 37° north; this,
however, is a very difficult one for waggons, and should only be travelled on
horseback.
There are said to be one or two other passes further south, in reference to which
I cannot speak with certainty, but am inclined to accredit their reported existence.
CHAPTER XXIII.
Minerals. Western California. The Sacramento and contiguous regions. Principal
rivers. Fish. Commercial advantages. Bay of San Francisco. Other Bays and
Harbors. Description of the country; territory northwest of the Sacramento;
Tlamath Mountains; California range and its vicinity; southern parts; timber, riverbottoms; Valleys of Sacramento, del Plumas, and Tulare; their extent, fertility,
timber, and fruit; wild grain and clover, spontaneous; wonderful fecundity of soil,
and its products; the productions, climate, rains, and dews; geological and
mineralogical character; face of the country; its water; its healthiness; game;
superabundance of cattle, horses, and sheep, their prices, &c.; beasts of prey;
the inhabitants, who; Indians, their character and condition; Capital of the
Province, with other towns; advantages of San Francisco; inland settlements;
foreigners and Mexicans; Government; its full military strength. Remarks.
IN the preceding chapter the reader must have acquired some tangible idea of
the true condition of Eastern California, with all its varied beauties and
deformities; its Edens and wastes of desolation; its enchantments, and scenes of
awe and terrific grandeur.
To have treated the subject more in extenso, would have trespassed upon
prescribed brevity; yet, doubtless, many will regret my having said so little
relative to the mineralogical character and resources of that country. The truth is,
comparatively little is known upon this important matter. Were I to give ear to
common report, I would say there are both gold and silver, with copper, lead, and
iron. But such stories are not always to be credited unless they come in a
credible shape.
However, it is very probable these metals do exist in various parts; and certain it
is that immense beds of coal and rock-salt are afforded, with large quantities of
gypsum, the truth of which is placed beyond doubt by an accumulation of
testimony. With these few remarks I turn from the subject, and bring before the
reader another and more interesting topic.
Following the only practicable waggon route from the U. S. to Western California,
via South Pass, —thence, after bearing northwest some forty miles, by a long
sweep southward around the Sierra Nevada to the Rio Sacrimento, —the
emigrant is taken through a succession of mountains. hills, plains, and valleys,
furrowed by frequent affluents from the north; — now, sterile wastes of
intervening sand; now, pleasant spreads of arable prairies; now, rugged
superfices of naked rock; then, beautiful valleys arrayed in all the loveliness of
perennial verdure, and profuse in vegetation of extraordinary growth, intermixed
with wild-flowers of unrivalled hues and lavish fragrance, till he finally reaches his
destination.
The Sacramento and its tributaries water the greater part of Western California.
This river is formed by the confluence of two large streams which rise in the
Cascade Mountains, properly termed the North and South Forks the former
heading near lat. 41° 43' north, long. 114° 51' west. (The South Fork is the
stream defining the waggon route from the U. States, via South Pass.)
The Sacramento, measured by its windings, is about eight hundred and fifty
miles in length. It receives many important auxiliaries above the junction of its
two forks, which greatly increase the volume and depth of its waters. From its
mouth it is said to afford a good stage of navigation for crafts of tolerable burthen,
as high up as three hundred miles, —tide water setting back for one hundred and
fifty miles.
Three other rivers, flowing from the southeast, have their discharge in the Bay of
San Francisco. These streams are severally called the Rio del Plumas, American
Fork, and Tulare.
The former derives its name from the great abundance of water-fowls which
congregate upon it at all seasons of the year, so numerous and tame that the
natives not unfrequently kill large quantities of them with clubs or stones as they
fly through the air.
The del Plumas is said to be navigable, for boats of a light draught, till within a
hundred miles of its head, —its whole length is about two hundred and fifty miles.
The American Fork, or the Rio de los Americanos, is a clear and beautiful stream
about one hundred and fifty miles long, emptying into the Sacramento Bay below
the del Plumas, and between it and the Tulare. Owing to frequent rapids,
however, its navigation is destroyed.
The Tulare is said to be four hundred miles long, and navigable for one half that
distance. It is represented as watering one of the most interesting sections of
Western California, and hence is considered next in importance to the
Sacramento. This stream affords some of the finest localities for settlements
found in the whole country.
Below the Bay of San Francisco several other small streams find their way into
the Pacific, but none of them are navigable to any great extent. The principal of
these empty as follows: into the Bay of Monterey, into the Ocean near Point del
Esteros, Point Arguello, St. Barbara Channel, San Pedro Bay, and opposite the
island of St. Clement.
Above the Bay of San Francisco, Russian river is discharged into Bodega Bay;
further on, Smith's river empties into Trinidad Bay; and two other small streams
find their discharge near Point St. George, a few miles below the boundary line
between Oregon and California.
Smith's river is the largest stream either above or below the Bay of San
Francisco, and is about two hundred miles in length, though unnavigable.
All these various rivers and their affluents are stored with innumerable supplies of
delicious fish, the principal of which are salmon and salmon-trout. The Ocean too
affords an exhaustless quantity of the piscatorial family, including whales, cod,
and haddock, with oysters, clams, lobsters, &c.
So great is the abundance of fish at certain seasons, that, with a rude seine, the
natives frequently take fifteen or twenty barrels full at a single draught; fish
constituting their principal subsistence.
There are few, if any, countries in the world possessed of superior commercial
advantages to the western section of Upper California.
True, its inland navigation is limited; yet, with an extent of nearly eight hundred
miles of sea-coast, accessible at almost any point, it includes some of the finest
bays and harbors ever known. Of these, for commodiousness and safety at all
times, the Bay of San Francisco stands pre-eminently conspicuous.
This bay is an arm of the sea extending some forty miles or more inland, shut in,
for the most part, upon each side by precipitous banks of basalt and trap, that
skirt a very broken and hilly country contiguous to it. The entrance from the
ocean is by an opening, a mile or more in width, through rock-formed walls,
between one and two hundred feet high. A recent traveller,43 in describing this
bay, says:
"From the points forming the entrance, the sea gradually expands to some eight
or ten miles in extent, from north to south, and twelve from east to west. At the
extreme eastern part of the vast basin thus formed, its shores again close in
abruptly, contracting so as to leave a pass of about two miles in width, which
forms the entrance to a second bay of still larger dimensions. From this gorge
their high rocky banks again diverge for some ten miles, when they still again
contract to the narrow space of one mile, and form the passage to a third. The
latter is more spacious than either before mentioned, and, formed in like manner,
extends twelve miles from east to west and fifteen from north to south, affording
the safest and most commodious anchorage."
There is ample water at all times for the entrance of ships of the largest class,
and it is asserted confidently, that these three united bays would afford perfect
safety, secure anchorage, and ample room for the fleets and navies of all
nations.
Several other bays and harbors are situated along the coast, all of which, to a
greater or less extent, are favorably spoken of for general safety and good
anchorage.
43
Hastings.
Among the above are mentioned the Bay of Monterey, San Pedro, St. Diego,
Bodega, and Trinidad. Bodega, however, is represented as being, at times, very
unsafe and even dangerous.
With such extraordinary facilities for commerce, it needs no prophetic eye to
forsee the position Western California is destined to assume, before many years
have passed, and, from her position and natural resources, will be enabled
successfully to maintain among the foremost nations of the earth-provided,
always, that some other people more enterprising and enlightened than the
present inert, ignorant, stupid, and mongrel race infesting it with their presence,
take possession of the country, develop its energies and bring to light the full
beauty of its natural loveliness.
We are now led to speak of the peculiarities of soil, landscape, scenery, climate,
productions, and mineral resources of this interesting country, and in so doing, I
would first draw a succinct view of the territory lying between the Rio Sacramento
and Oregon.
Here we find the most forbidding aspect, with one exception, of any in Western
California. The soil is generally very dry and barren, and the face of the country
broken and hilly. The streams of water (as in the Eastern Division) frequently sink
and become lost in the sand, or force themselves into the Ocean and parent
streams by percolation or subterranean passages.
In many places is presented a surface of white sun-baked clay, entirely destitute
of vegetation; and in others, wide spreads of sand, alike denuded; and yet again
iron-bound superfices of igneous rock.
Now and then groves of pines or firs spread their broad branches as it were to
cover the nakedness of nature; while here and there a valley of greater or less
extent smiles amid the surrounding desolation.
All the various streams are skirted with bottoms of arable soil, ofttimes not only
large but very fertile, though perhaps unadapted to cultivation, on account of their
dryness, without a resort to irrigation.
Smith's river pursues its way, for forty or fifty miles, through a wide bottom of rich
soil, most admirably suited for agricultural purposes were it not for its innate
aridity;—however, during the summer season, it is, to a limited extent, watered
from nightly dews, which enable it to sustain a luxuriant vegetation.
Not one fourth part of the northwestern portion of this section is fit for tillage. That
part contiguous to the sea-coast is sandy and far less broken than those sections
less interior.
The Tlameth Mountains, pursuing a west-southwest course from Oregon, strike
the coast near lat. 41° north. This range has several lofty peaks covered with
perpetual snow, and shoots its collateral eminences far into the adjacent prairies.
There is one feasible pass through this chain a few miles inland from the coast,
that serves well for the purpose of intercommunication with Oregon.
The less elevated parts of these mountains are frequently covered with groves of
small timber and openings of grass suitable for pasturage, while intermingled
with them are occasional valleys and prairillons of diminutive space, favorable to
the growth of grain and vegetables. The same may be said in reference to the
California chain for its whole extent, especially in the vicinity of the prairie.
Following the course of this latter ridge from north to south, we find upon both
sides a reach of very broken and highly tumulous landscape, some twenty or
thirty miles broad.
Near the head-waters of the Sacramento, these lands are well watered and
possess a general character for fertility, producing a variety of grass, with shrubs
and a few scattering trees. Below, however, they are more sterile, owing to the
deficiency of water; but yet they afford numerous inviting spots. A considerable
extent of country, south of the South Fork of the river above named, is arid and
sterile, and has but few streams of water. It sustains, however, among its hills
and in its valleys, a sparse vegetation that might be turned to a favorable account
for grazing purposes. Only about one fourth of this country is adapted to other
uses than stock-raising.
Further south from the head-waters of the Tulare and del Plumas, ranging
between the coast and the high rolling lands skirting the base of the California
Mountains to the boundary of the Lower Province, a section of gently undulating
prairie, now and then varied with high hills and some times mountains, affords a
rich soil, generally consisting of dark, sandy loam, between the hills and in the
valleys; the highlands present a superfice of clay and gravel, fertilized by
decomposed vegetable matter, well adapted to grazing, and about one half of it
susceptible of cultivation.
Timber is rather scarce, except at intervals along the watercourses and
occasional groves among the hills; but along the coast dense forests are
frequently found claiming trees of an enormous size.
But, one grand defect exists in its general aridity, which renders necessary a
resort to frequent irrigation in the raising of other than grain products. In some
parts, the abundance of small streams would cause this task to become
comparatively an easy one; and the profuseness of dews in sections contiguous
to the rivers in some measure answers as a substitute for rain.
The bottoms are broad and extensive, yielding not only the most extraordinary
crops of clover and other grasses, but incalculable quantities of wild oats and flax
of spontaneous growth, with all the wild fruits natural to the climate.
In returning to the Sacramento and the rivers which find their discharges in the
Bay of San Francisco, we have before us the most interesting and lovely part of
Upper California.
The largest valley in the whole country is that skirting the Sacramento and lateral
streams. This beautiful expanse leads inland from the Bay of San Francisco for
nearly four hundred miles, almost to the base of the California Mountains, and
averages between sixty and sixty-five miles in width.
The valleys of the del Plumas and American Fork are also very large, and that of
the Tulare gives an area of two hundred and fifty miles long by thirty-five broad.
These valleys are comparatively well timbered with several varieties of wood,
consisting principally of white-oak, live-oak, ash, cottonwood, cherry, and willow,
while the adjacent hills afford occasional forests of pine, cedar, fir, pinion, and
spruce.
The soil as well as the climate is well adapted to the cultivation of all kinds of
grain and vegetables produced in the United States, and many of the varied fruits
of the torrid and temperate zones can be successfully reared in one and the
same latitude.
Among the grains, grasses, and fruits indigenous to the country are wheat, rye,
oats, flax, and clover, (white and red,) with a great variety of grapes, all of which
are said to grow spontaneously.
Wild oats frequently cover immense spreads of bottom and prairie land,
sometimes to an extent of several thousand acres, which resemble in
appearance the species common to the United States. They usually grow to a
height of between two and three feet, though they often reach a height of seven
feet.
The wild clover of these valleys is much like the common red, and, in some
places, is afforded in great abundance. It attains a usual height of two feet and a
half, though it often measures twice that height—standing as thick as it can well
grow.
Forty bushels per acre is said to be the average wheat crop, but sixty and even
one hundred bushels have been grown upon a like spot of ground. This grain
generally reaches its maturity in three or four months from the time of sowing.
Corn yields well, and affords an average of from fifty to sixty bushels per acre,
without farther attention from the time of planting till picking. Potatoes, onions,
beets, carrots, &c., may be produced in any quantity with very little trouble.
Tobacco has also been raised by some of the inhabitants with most flattering
success.
Perhaps, no country in the world is possessed of a richer or more fruitful soil, or
one capable of yielding a greater variety of productions, than the valleys of the
Sacramento and its tributaries.
The articles previously noticed are more or less common to the bottoms and
valleys of other sections. Grapes abound in the vicinity of most of the creeks,
which afford generous wines and delicious raisins in immense quantities.
The climate is so mild that fires are needed at no season of the year for other
than cooking purposes. By aid of irrigation, many kinds of vegetables are freshgrown at any time, while two crops of some species of grain may be produced
annually.
Flowers are not unfrequently in full bloom in mid winter, and all nature bears a
like smiling aspect. In this, however, we of course refer only to the low-lands and
valleys.
The traveller at any season of the year may visit at his option the frosts and
snows of eternal winter, or feast his eyes upon the verdure and beauty of
perennial spring, or glut his taste amid the luxuriant abundance and rich maturity
of unending summer, or indulge his changeful fancy in the enjoyment of a
magnificent variety of scenery as well as of climate, soil, and productions.
The only rains incident to this country fall during the months of December,
January, February, and March, which constitute the winter; at other times rain is
very rarely known to fall. Perhaps, for one third of the four months before named,
the clouds pour down their torrents without intermission; the remaining two thirds
afford clear and delightful weather.
During the wet season the ground in many parts becomes so thoroughly
saturated with moisture, particularly in the valley of the Sacramento, that, by the
aid of copious dews to which the country is subject, crops may be raised without
the trouble of irrigation; though its general aridity constitutes the greatest
objection to California.
Of its geological and mineralogical character little is yet known. The prevailing
rock is said to be sandstone, mica slate, granite, trap, basalt, puddingstone, and
limestone, with occasional beds of gypsum. Among its minerals as commonly
reported, are found gold, silver, iron, coal, and a variety of salts. The mineral
resources of the country have not been as yet fully investigated to any great
extent, but the mountains in different parts, are supposed to be rich in hidden
stores.
To speak of Western California as a whole, it may be pronounced hilly, if not
mountainous, and about two thirds of it is probably fit for agricultural purposes.
The creeks are frequently immured by precipitous walls of several hundred feet
in altitude, that, expanding here and there, give place to beautiful valleys of
variable width, while most of the low-lands upon their banks are skirted by
continuous and abrupt acclivities leading to the high prairies, table lands, and
mountains contiguous to them. Their currents are generally clear and rapid,
flowing over beds of sand, pebbles, and rock, and afford wholesome and
delicious water.
The air is almost invariably pure and free from the noxious exhalations common
to many countries, which contributes greatly to render the climate uniformly
healthy—a character which it has hitherto sustained by common report.
Some travellers, however, speak of large Indian villages in different parts,
deserted and in ruins, whose sites are bestrown with human bones and sculls, as
if the entire population had been swept off by the frightful ravages of deadly
pestilence, and so suddenly that not a soul was left to bury their dead; and hence
they suppose the country occasionally subject to devastating sicknesses. The
above, however, may with equal propriety be charged to the account of war.
Game is quite plentiful in the Western Division of Upper California, and in many
places extremely abundant, especially in the mountains near the head-waters of
the Tulare and Sacramento rivers.
Among the different varieties are enumerated deer, (black-tailed and whitetailed,) elk, antelope, goats, bear, (black, red, and grizzly,) beaver, geese, brants,
ducks, and grouse, with wild horses and cattle; buffalo are unknown to the
Province.
Never was a country better adapted to stock-raising than is this, and perhaps
none, according to the number of its inhabitants, so abundantly supplied with
horses, cattle, and sheep. The former of these abound in countless numbers,
whenever a white man or a Spanio-Mexican makes it his residence. A single
individual frequently owns from eight to ten thousand head of horses and mules;
and, not rarely, even as high as fifteen or twenty thousand.
These animals are very hardy and trim-built, and only a trifle smaller than those
common to the United States. I have seen many of them equally as large as the
American breed, and, as a general thing, they are more durable under fatigue
and hardship.
The choicest animals from a band of several thousand may be purchased for ten
dollars, and the ordinary price for prime selections ranges from three to five
dollars, while mares may be procured for two dollars per head.
Cattle are equally plenty, at prices varying from two to four dollars per head.
Stock is raised without trouble, as the abundance of grass affords pasturage the
entire season, nor is necessary a resort to either hay or house. In fact, both cattle
and horses not only thrive best but are fattest in the winter season, owing to the
absence of flies and insects, as well as the partial freshness of vegetation.
The common method of stock-raising is by turning them loose into the bottoms
and prairies, accompanied by a herdsman, or two, or more, a la Mexican,
(according to the size of the band,) where they are left to increase, and no further
care is bestowed upon them.
Sheep too are raised in vast numbers after the above manner. They increase
with astonishing rapidity, and usually produce their young twice a year. Their
wool, however, is much coarser than that grown in the United States. This latter
fact is accounted for by their inferiority of breed, though their flesh is sweeter and
better than the American mutton.
Wolves are said to be numerous and troublesome, and not unfrequently prove a
source of great annoyance to the inhabitants by destroying their sheep, calves,
colts, and even full-grown cattle and horses.
Among them are included the black, gray, and prairie wolf. The black wolf is the
largest and most ferocious, equalling the size of our common cur-dog.
Foxes are also said to be numerous, but are of a diminutive size. The above are
the only beasts of prey worth naming.
The foregoing summary leads us to notice the present state of the country, its
inhabitants, government, and military strength.
Upper California at the present time is in the united possession of the Indians,
Mexicans, English, and French; not as rulers, but as land-holders and
inhabitants.
The Indians are supposed to number some thirty or forty thousand souls, and are
scattered over the entire Province. Excepting the Diggers, the Utahs, the Snakes,
and those residing in the vicinity of the Sierra Nevada and the Tlameth
Mountains, they are quite similar in character and condition to those noticed as
being residents of the Gila and adjacent regions.
They are mild and timorous, and incapable of opposing any very serious
impediment to the progress of settlements. Fifteen Americans, armed with good
rifles, are equal to one or two hundred of such enemies in ordinary cases.
The Catholics have twenty or more missions among them, the effect of which has
been not so much to advance their civilization, or convert them to the truths of
Christianity, as to render them the slaves of a corrupt and vicious priesthood.
Monterey is the present capital of Upper California. It is beautifully situated upon
a gently undulating plain, in full view of the Ocean and harbor, and contains
about one thousand inhabitants. Its houses are constructed of adobies, after the
Mexican fashion.
South of this town are several other places of considerable importance along the
coast, viz: San Diego, San Gabriel, and San Barbara; all of which are well
located for commercial purposes.
A town called the Pueblo is situated upon a small river that debouches between
San Diego and San Gabriel. This town is a few miles removed from the coast,
and is said to be the largest one in California. It contains a population of about
fifteen hundred, and is the grand centripot of overland intercourse with New
Mexico.
Above Monterey are two other towns, bearing the names of Sonoma and San
Francisco.
The latter is situated upon the bay of that name, and, from its superior
commercial advantages, is destined to become one of the largest and most
important business cities upon the western coast of the American continent.
Possessed of one of the finest and most commodious harbors in the world,
(emphatically the harbor of harbors,) and located at the mouth of a large
navigable river, that waters a vast expanse of country unsurpassed in fertility,
what should hinder it from assuming that commanding position designed for it by
nature?
It is built after the English manner, and its inhabitants, numbering about two
hundred, are principally American, English, and French, with a few Mexicans and
Indians.
There are also several settlements upon the Sacramento and other rivers,
consisting mostly of foreigners.
The Catholic missions are generally the nucleus of small Mexican and Indian
villages, and derive their support from agricultural pursuits.
Aside from these, the country is entirely devoid of population other than wild
beasts and uncultivated savages. The white inhabitants are computed at one
thousand or more, and are generally Americans; while between ten and twelve
thousand Mexicans curse the country with their presence, and disgrace the
Edens they possess.
The government of California has been, like all Mexican governments, very lax
and inefficient. It was but little other than a despotism, or, rather, a complicated
machine for the oppression of the people and the perversion of justice! and
infinitely worse than none.
Whether the late revolution has produced a better order of things remains to be
determined; but, one fact is worthy of notice — no permanent reformation can be
effected so long as Mexicans exercise any controlling influence in the
administration of the laws; and, to speak plainly, not until the government is
placed in other and better hands.
The Mexicans occupy eight military stations at different points along the coast,
garrisoned by about three hundred and fifty soldiers, and mounting some fifty
pieces of artillery. The largest of these fortifications is at Monterey. This post is
garrisoned by two hundred soldiers, and twelve pieces of canon — while the fort
at New Helvetia, held by the Americans, mounts an equal number.
In case of an emergency, it is supposed the whole Mexican force might possibly
amount to between ten and eleven hundred men — in efficiency nearly equal to a
party of one hundred and fifty well-armed Americans.
It will be seen at a mere glance, that Mexico cannot maintain her hold upon
California for many years to come. Emigrants from the United States and other
countries, attracted by its fertile soil and healthful climate, will continue to pour
into it with increased ratio, until, by outnumbering the degraded race that at
present bears sway, this delightful portion of the globe shall of necessity become
either the dependency of some foreign power or assume a separate and distinct
existence as an independent nation.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Visitors at Uintah — Adventures of a trapping party. The Munchies, or white
Indians; some account of them. Amusements at rendezvous. Mysterious city, and
attempts at its exploration, —speculation relative to its inhabitants. Leave for Fort
Hall. Camp at Bear river. Boundary between the U. States and Mexico. Green
valleys, &c. Country en route. Brown's-hole. Geological observations. Soda,
Beer, and Steamboat springs; their peculiarities. Minerals. Valley of Bear river; its
fertility, timber, and abundance of wild fruit. Buffalo berries. Superior advantages
of this section. Mineral tar.
OUR stay at the Uintah was prolonged for some ten days. The gentleman in
charge at this post spared no pains to render my visit agreeable, and, in answer
to enquiries, cheerfully imparted all the information in his possession relative to
the localities, geography, and condition of the surrounding country.
A trapping party from the Gila came in soon after our arrival, bringing with them a
rich quantity of beaver, which they had caught during the preceding winter,
spring, and summer upon the affluents of that river and the adjacent mountain
streams. They had made a successful hunt, and gave a glowing description of
the country visited, and the general friendliness of its inhabitants.
The natives, in some parts of their range, had never before seen a white man,
and, after the first surprise had subsided, treated them with great deference and
respect. These simple and hospitable people supplied them with corn, beans,
and melons, and seemed at all times well disposed.
The only difficulty encountered with them took place upon one of the northern
tributaries of the Gila. Two or three butcher-knives and other little articles being
missing from camp, the trappers at once accused the Indians of stealing, and
demanded their prompt restoration. The latter they were either unable or
unwilling to do, and thereupon a volley of riflery was discharged among the
promiscuous throng, with fatal effect. Several were killed and others wounded,
and the whole troop of timorous savages immediately took to their heels, nor
dared to return again.
In narrating the events of their long excursion, an account was given of visiting
the Munchies, a tribe of white Indians.
What added much to the interest I felt in this part of their story, was the
recollection of an article which went the newspaper rounds several years since,
stating the existence of such a tribe. I had disbelieved it at the time; but this, and
subsequent corroborative evidence, has effectually removed from my mind all
doubts upon the subject.
Our trappers had remained with the Munchies for four weeks, and spoke of them
in high terms.
In reference to their color they were represented as being of a much fairer
complexion than Europeans generally, a thing easily explained if we remember
this one fact, i.e., my informants must have spoken comparatively, taking
themselves as the true representatives of that race, when in reality their own
color, by constant exposure to the weather, had acquired a much darker hue
than ordinary; then drawing their conclusions from a false standard, they were
led to pronounce the fair natives much fairer, as a body, than the whites.
By information derived from various sources, I am enabled to present the
following statement relative to this interesting people:
The Munchies are a nation of white aborigines, actually existing in a valley
among the Sierra de los Mimbros chain, upon one of the affluents of the Gila, in
the extreme northwestern part of the Province of Sonora.
They number about eight hundred in all. Their country is surrounded by lofty
mountains at nearly every point, and is well watered and very fertile, though of
limited extent. Their dwellings are spacious apartments nicely excavated in the
hill-sides, and are frequently cut in the solid rock.
They subsist by agriculture, and raise cattle, horses, and sheep. Their features
correspond with those of Europeans, though with a complexion, perhaps,
somewhat fairer, and a form equally if not more graceful.
Among them are many of the arts and comforts of civilized life. They spin and
weave, and manufacture butter and cheese, with many of the luxuries known to
more enlightened nations.
Their political economy, though much after the patriarchal order, is purely
republican in its character. The old men exercise the supreme control in the
enactment and execution of laws. These laws are usually of the most simple
form, and tend to promote the general welfare of the community. They are made
by a concurrent majority of the seniors in council, —each male individual, over a
specified age, being allowed a voice and a vote.
Questions of right and wrong are heard and adjudged by a committee selected
from the council of seniors, who are likewise empowered to redress the injured
and pass sentence upon the criminal.
In morals they are represented as honest and virtuous. In religion they differ but
little from other Indians.
They are strictly men of peace, and never go to war, nor even, as a common
thing, oppose resistance to the hostile incursions of surrounding nations. On the
appearance of an enemy, they immediately retreat, with their cattle, horses,
sheep, and other valuables, to mountain caverns, fitted at all times for their
reception, —where, by barricading the entrances, they are at once secure
without a resort to arms.
In regard to their origin they have lost all knowledge or even tradition, (a thing not
likely to have happened had they been the progeny of Europeans at any late
period, —that is, since the time of Columbus;) neither do their characters,
manners, customs, arts, or government savor of modern Europe.
Could a colony or party of Europeans in the short period of three centuries and a
half lose all trace of their origin, religion, habits, arts, civilization, and
government? Who, for a moment, would entertain an idea so estranged to
probability?
And yet the Munchies cannot be real Indians, —they must be of European
descent, though circumstances other than complexion afford no evidence of
identity with either race. Where, then, shall we place them? — from whence is
there origin?
We are forced to admit the weight of circumstantial testimony as to their having
settled upon this continent prior to its discovery by Columbus. Here we are led to
inquire, are they not the remote descendants of some colony of ancient
Romans?
That such colonies did here exist in former ages, there is good reason for
believing. The great lapse of time and other operative causes combined, may
have transformed the Munchies from the habits, customs, character, religion,
arts, civilization, and language of the Romans, to the condition in which they are
at present found.
Among the visitors at the Fort were several old trappers who had passed fifteen
or twenty years in the Rocky Mountains and neighboring countries. They were
what might, with propriety, be termed "hard cases."
The interval of their stay was occupied in gambling, horse-racing, and other like
amusements.
Bets were freely made upon everything involving the least doubt, —sometimes to
the amount of five hundred or a thousand dollars — the stakes consisting of
beaver, horses, traps, &c.
Not unfrequently the proceeds of months of toil, suffering, deprivation, and
danger, were dissipated in a few hours, and the unfortunate gamester left without
beaver, horse, trap, or even a gun. In such cases they bore their reverses without
grumbling, and relinquished all to the winner, as unconcernedly as though these
were affairs of every-day occurrence.
These veterans of the mountains were very communicative, and fond of relating
their adventures, many of which were so vested with the marvelous as to involve
in doubt their credibility.
Were it not for extending the limits of this work too far, I should be tempted to
transcribe the choicest of them for the reader's amusement; but, as it is, I cannot
refuse place to one (here for the first time related in my hearing, which has
subsequently reached me from other sources) relative to a subject deeply
interesting to the curious.
Stevens, in his "Incidents of Travel in Yucatan," admits it to be quite possible that
cities like those in ruins at Uxmal and Palenque, may yet exist in the unexplored
parts of the Mexican Republic, and be inhabited by a people in all respects
similar to that once occupying the before named.
Those acquainted with the nature of the country embraced in the mountainous
portions of Mexico, must admit the possibility of such a thing. With this premise I
give, the story as I heard it.
Five or six years since, a party of trappers, in search for beaver, penetrated into
an unfrequented part of the mountains forming the eastern boundary of Sonora.
During their excursion they ascended a lofty peak that overlooked an extensive
valley, apparently enclosed upon all sides by impassable mountains. At a long
distance down the valley, by aid of a spy-glass, they could plainly distinguish
houses and people, with every indication of a populous city.
At the point from whence this discovery was made, the mountain-side facing the
valley was a precipitous wall of vertical rock, several hundred feet to its base,
rendering a descent impossible.
After trying at other places, with like ill-success, they were at length compelled to
relinquish the design of further investigation for the time being.
Subsequently, on visiting Arispie, a town of Sonora, several foreigners were
induced to join them in a return expedition, and a company of some twenty or
twenty-five repaired to the place for the purpose of prosecuting a research so
interesting.
On arriving at the mountain from whence the object of their curiosity had been
first seen, there lay before them the valley and city with its domes and palaces,
amid which a swarming population was distinctly observed, apparently engaged
in the prosecution of their various avocations. There could be no doubt of its
reality, but how to reach it was the next question.
A number of days were occupied in vain search for a pass into the valley. The
creek upon which it lay was found to emerge from the vast enclosure, through
the mountain, by a frightful chasm formed of vertical rocks upon each side, for
hundreds and even thousands of feet in altitude. The current was rapid, and
interrupted by frequent falls that precluded the possibility of a passage up its bed.
They crossed it, and, finding a convenient slope, again ascended the mountain.
On reaching the summit, a counterscarp was observed, where, by dint of great
exertion, a descent could be effected; but not with horses.
Arrangements were made accordingly, and one half of the party remained with
the animals and baggage, while the others, continuing the exploration, finally
succeeded in entering the valley.
Meanwhile, the movements of the advancing party were viewed with great
anxiety by those in reserve. In the course of the succeeding day they were seen
to enter the city and mingle among its inhabitants; but, after that, they were never
again seen or heard of.
Three weeks elapsed and no sign of them appeared. At length their companions
were forced by hunger to leave the spot and abandon them to their fate.
Another attempt to explore this mysterious locality is reported to have been made
by a company of Spaniards, some of whom penetrated the valley, but never
returned.
The site of this city, if the story of its existence be true, is undoubtedly the bed of
an ancient lake, whose waters have become gradually drained by a forced
passage through the mountain, thus forming the chasm and creek above noticed.
The people inhabiting it are probably from the stock of original Mexicans44, who
sought this as a secure retreat from the terror of Spanish oppression in the time
of Cortez; since which their posterity have lived here unknown to the rest of the
world.
Taught by the bitter experience of past ages to hate and distrust the white man,
and still cherishing their traditionary animosity, they permit none of that race to
return who visit them, and, from the peculiarity of their position and jealous
caution, have successfully maintained an uninterrupted in cog.
Several trappers rendezvoused at the Uintah being about to leave for Fort Hall,
on the head waters of the Columbia river, I improved the opportunity of bearing
them company.
44
* Baron Humboldt and some other travellers speak of quite extensive ruins in the vicinity of the Gila, which are
attributed to a different race of people from those now inhabiting that country, or even the ancient Mexicans. Some of
them are represented as being in a tolerable state of preservation, particularly one, which is known as the "cassa grand."
No reasonable conjecture as to their origin has yet been adduced. If they are not the ruined fabrics of ancient Mexican
grandeur, to whom are we to look for their parentage?
The diversity of character between them and those of Uxmal, Paleiue, and other ruined cities of Central America, puzzles
us still more; and, as the feeble ray of conjecture is the only source from whence light may be thrown upon this mysterious
subject, we would prefer the suggestion, that the progenitors of the Munchies, or white Indians, might have been their
builders; or, if the reported existence of the city of the mountains as stated in the text be true, might not the ancestors of
the people now inhabiting it have had some hand in their original construction? But, if the latter be the case, and these
relics are not the product of Mexican civilization, the question yet remains unanswered, viz: who are the residents of that
city and whence is their origin?
My necessary arrangements were completed simply by exchanging horses; and,
on the morning of Oct. 29th, I bade farewell to my new acquaintances at the Fort,
and joined the party en route, which, including myself and compagnons de
voyage from Fort Lancaster, numbered eleven in all, well mounted and armed.
The weather proved delightful considering the lateness of the season, and our
journey was rapid and uninterrupted.
On leaving the Uintah we continued northward, over a rough country, for some
twenty-five miles, and passed the night at Ashley's Fork,45 with a small village of
Snake Indians.
Resuming our course through a mountainous region, diversified by beautiful little
valleys, late in the afternoon of the third day we camped in the vicinity of Brown'shole.
Bearing from thence a southwesterly course, two days afterwards we arrived at
Bear river, and obtained, from an adjoining eminence, a distant view of the Great
Salt Lake.
Continuing down the river a few miles, we struck camp, and remained some
three days for the purpose of hunting.
Being unwilling to leave the vicinity without a more perfect observation of this
vast inland sea, I improved the interval for that purpose, and, in a few hours' ride,
came to a point which overlooked its briny waters and spread out before me an
object of so much interest to all beholders.
Its whilom waves now lay slumbering upon its bosom, for not a breath of air
stirred to awake them from their transient repose, save that caused by the
flutterings of countless water-fowls which beskimmed the crystal blue or rode
upon its surface.
No sound disturbed the stillness of its solitude, save that of my own footsteps
commingling with the incessant chatter of aquatic birds. In solemn grandeur it lay
before the eye a desert of waters, bounded upon three sides by the curving
horizon, while from the fourth a beautiful expanse of verdancy smiled upon its
solitude.
The island with its lone mountain, of which I have spoken in a former chapter,
arose in full view, apparently a short distance to the southwest. It was a grand
45
This stream is named in memory of Gen. Ashley, of Mo., who, while engaged in the fur trade, attempted to descend the
Colorado in boats, thinking thus to reach St. Louis by a direct water communication! However, he was compelled to
relinquish his strange enterprise at the mouth of this creek, on account of the difficulty and danger attendant upon a
further progress.
and imposing spectacle, and I much regretted the impossibility of reaching it. Its
giant piles of naked rock and sun-baked clay, seemed scanning the surrounding
waves, to smile upon their soft blandishments or frown at their rudeness.
But the Island, the Lake, and the country contiguous, have been fully described
in former pages, which of right precludes a further notice at this time.
On resuming our course we continued up Bear river to the famous mineral
springs, — thence bearing a northwesterly direction, we arrived at Fort Hall late
in the afternoon of Nov. 9th.
The route from Uintah to this point presents many interesting localities some of
which call for more than a mere passing notice. That situate upon Green river,
known as Brown's-hole,46 coming first in order, seems to assert a merited
precedence.
Descending by a steep, difficult pass from the west, fifty miles north of Ashley's
Fork, the traveller is ushered into a beautiful valley, some fifteen miles long by
ten broad, shut in upon all sides by impassable mountains that guard it from the
world without.
46
This locality has received the soubriquet of Brown's-hole from the following circumstance:
Some six or seven years since, a trapper, by the name of Brown, came to it in the fall season for the purpose of hunting in
its vicinity. During his stay a fall of snow closed the passes so effectually, he was forced to remain till the succeeding
spring before he could escape from his lonely prison.
It was formerly a favorite resort for the Snake Indians, on account of its exhaustless stores of game and wild fruits, as well
as its security from the approach of enemies.
NOTE.... —Taking latitude 42 ° north as the northern boundary between Oregon and California, these interesting regions
of country are embraced within the limits of the latter; but taking the head-waters of the Arkansas as the true point, and
thence, by a line running due west to the Pacific, nearly the whole of it will be found within the United States.
The treaty with Spain in 1819, defining this boundary, which was subsequently confirmed by Mexico, after noting Red river
as the northern boundary of its eastern provinces, to longitude 100 ° west from Greenwich, and thence north to the
Arkansas, uses the following words:
"Thence, following the course of the south bank of the Arkansas TO ITS SOURCE in latitude 42 ° north, thence by that
parallel of latitude to the South Sea."
If the source of the Arkansas, by its south bank, is in lat. 42 ° north, then the matter of boundary admits of no question; but
if it is not in that parallel of latitude, should the latter be regarded as the true boundary, when it is evident, from the words
of the treaty that the source of the Arkansas by its south bank, was the intended FARTHEST northern extremity of
Mexico, where the line between the two countries shall commence, and thence run due west to the Pacific?
But, instead of being in lat. 42 ° north, the source of the Arkansas is in lat. 39 ° north, as indisputably ascertained from
recent explorations, and thus an interval of three degrees occurs between the two points named in the above treaty!
If the United States are obligated by this treaty to receive the 42d degree as their southern boundary, Mexico is equally
obligated to receive the parallel from the source of the Arkansas due west to the Pacific, as her true northern limits; thus,
a territory of eleven hundred and twenty-five miles from east to west, and nearly one hundred and forty from north to
south, is left unowned by either party!
The only feasible entrance is upon the east side through a remarkable cañon
sixty yards wide, formed by craggy rocks six or eight hundred feet in altitude,
succeeded by a still narrower and more precipitous one, towering to a height of
twelve or fifteen hundred feet.
This valley is intersected by Green river, which, emerging from the lofty ridges
above, and tracing its way through the narrow and frightful cañons below, here
presents a broad, smooth stream, fifty or sixty yards wide, with sloping banks,
and passably well timbered.
Here all the various wild fruits indigenous to the country are found in great
abundance, with countless multitudes of deer, elk, and sheep.
The soil is of a dark loam, very fertile and admirably adapted to cultivation.
Vegetation attains a rank growth and continues green the entire year.
Spring wedded to summer seems to have chosen this sequestered spot for her
fixed habitation, where, when dying autumn woos the sere frost and snow, of
winter she may withdraw to her flower-garnished retreat and smile and bloom
forever.
The surrounding mountains are from fifteen hundred to two thousand feet high,
and present several peaks where snow claims an unyielding dominion year after
year, in awful contrast with the beauty and loveliness that lies below.
Few localities in the mountains are equal to this, in point of beautiful and
romantic scenery. Every thing embraced in its confines tends to inspire the
beholder with commingled feelings of awe and admiration.
Its long, narrow gate-way, walled in by huge impending rocks, for hundreds of
feet in altitude, — the lofty peaks that surround it, clothed in eternal snow, — the
bold stream traversing it, whose heaving bosom pours sweet music into the ears
of listening solitude, — the verdant lawn, spreading far and wide, garnished with
blushing wild-flowers and arrayed in the habiliments of perennial spring, — all, all
combine to invest it with an enchantment as soul-expanding in its sublimity as it
is fascinating in its loveliness.
The country contiguous to Bear river, back from the valleys, is generally rugged
and sterile. Sometimes the surface for a considerable extent is entirely destitute
of vegetation, and presents a dreary waste of rocks, or clay hardened to a stonelike consistency by the sun's rays. Now and then a few dwarfish pines and
cedars meet the eye amid the surrounding desolation, and occasional clusters of
coarse grass intervene at favoring depressions among the rocks.
The landscape, as a whole, possesses a savage wildness peculiar to itself, and
bears strong indications of volcanic action. The mountains are not so high as
those of other parts, but are far more forbidding in their aspect. The prevailing
rock is lava, scoriated basalt, trap, bituminous limestone, and calcareous tufa.
The valley of Bear river affords a number of springs strongly impregnated with
various mineral properties, which cannot fail to excite the curiosity and interest of
the traveller. They are found upon the left bank of the stream, a short distance
below a small affluent from the north.
Two of them are situated in a small grove of cedars, within a short distance of
each other.
In passing their vicinity the attention of the traveller is at once arrested by the
hissing noise they emit; and on approaching to ascertain the cause, he finds two
circular-shaped openings in the surface, several feet in diameter, and filled with
transparent fluid in a state of incessant effervescence, caused by the action of
subterranean gases.
The water of the one he finds on tasting to be excellent natural soda, and that of
the other, slightly acid and beer-like; —the draught will prove delicious and
somewhat stimulating, but, if repeated too freely, it is said to produce a kind of
giddiness like intoxication. These singular natural curiosities are known among
the trappers as the Beer and Soda springs, names not altogether inappropriate.
A few hundred yards below these, is another remarkable curiosity, called the
Steamboat spring. This discharges a column of mineral water from a rock-formed
orifice, accompanied with subterraneous sounds like those produced by a highpressure steamboat.
Besides the above-described, there are a number of others in this vicinity of
equally mineral character, as well as several hot springs, varying in temperature
from blood to that of extreme boiling heat.
Bear river valley contains many wide spreads of most excellent land, susceptible
of a high state of cultivation. In fertility it is unsurpassed, and varies in width from
one and a half to three miles.
The stream is not heavily timbered, but the scattering groves of pine and cedar
among the adjoining mountains partially atone for any apparent deficiency.
Towards its head, the hills upon either side are less rugged and barren, and
present more frequent intervals of verdancy.
I noticed a large number of fruit-bearing shrubs and bushes, including cherry,
service, goose, and buffalo-berries, (two kinds,) with currants.
The bushes of the buffalo-berry were not as yet entirely divested of their delicious
burthen, and afforded a new variety of that fruit hitherto not having come under
my observation.
This berry is about the size of and similar in shape to the common currant. There
are three kinds, —the white, yellow, and red, (shepherdia argentia.)
The red is of a slightly tartish taste, but not unpleasant; the yellow is somewhat
less acid, but otherwise similar to the red; the white, however, is most excellent
tasted, and possesses a delicious sweetness which causes it to be highly
relished.
This fruit has several small seeds in it, like those of the whortleberry, and grows
upon a bush in shape and size quite like the common shrub-oak. It produces in
such immense quantities, that the parent bush is not unfrequently flattened with
its superincumbent weight.
The grizzly bear delights to revel among the thickets of this his favorite berry, and
is almost certain to make from it his last autumn meal ere he retires to winter
quarters and commences the long fast that follows.
The valley of Bear river presents to emigrants many advantages. Possessed not
only of a rich soil, well adapted to cultivation, and vast mineral resources, with
natural curiosities that must ever make it a central point of attraction, but situated
in the immediate vicinity of the prospective population of the Great Salt Lake and
upon the direct line of over-land intercourse between the United States,
California, and Oregon, it must command for its future inhabitants a sure source
of prosperity and wealth.
There is little doubt of its eventually becoming the most important section of
Southeastern Oregon.
In descanting upon the natural curiosities of this valley, the trappers
accompanying me spoke of a spring further to the northward, which constantly
emits a small stream of mineral tar, from the mountain-side, in no respect inferior
to the manufactured article. However, I am not certain in regard to the locality of
this interesting phenomenon.
CHAPTER XXV.
Fort Hall; its history, and locality. Information relative to Oregon. Boundaries and
extent of the territory. Its rivers and lakes, with a concise description of them
severally. Abundance and variety of fish and waterfowl. Harbors and islands.
Oregon as a whole; its mountains and geographical divisions. Eastern Division;
its wild scenery, valleys, soil, and timber; volcanic ravages; country between
Clarke's river and the Columbia. North of the Columbia; its general character.
Middle Division; its valleys, prairies, highlands, and forests. Western Division; a
beautiful country; extensive valleys of extraordinary fertility; productive plains;
abundance of timber, its astonishing size and variety. A brief summary of facts.
OUR journey from the Uintah to Fort Hall occupied twelve days, and took us a
distance of about two hundred miles. Most of this time the weather continued
mild and pleasant; the only interval of inclemency was a single bleak and cloudy
day, succeeded by a slight fall of snow during the night, which the bright
sunshine of the ensuing morning dissipated in a few moments.
Along the entire route we found an abundance of green grass at sheltered places
in the valleys, and also large quantities of game, especially blacktailed deer,
bear, and elk. Bear are more numerous in this section than in any other I am
acquainted with.
Fort Hall is located upon the left bank of Snake river, or Lewis' Fork of the
Columbia, in a rich bottom near the delta formed by the confluence of the
Portneuf with that stream, in lat. 43° 10' 30” north, long. 112° 20' 64” west.
In general structure it corresponds with most of the other trading establishments
in the country. It was built by Capt. Wythe of Boston, in 1832, for the purpose of
furnishing trappers with their needful supplies in exchange for beaver and other
peltries, and also to command the trade with the Snakes. Subsequently it was
transferred to the Hudson Bay Company in whose possession it has since
remained.
Mr. Grant, a gentleman distinguished for his kindness and urbanity, is at present
in charge, and has some sixty Canadians and half-breeds in his employ.
This post is in the immediate vicinity of the old war-ground between the
Blackfoot, Snake, and Crow Indians, and was formerly considered a very
dangerous locality on that account. Its early occupants were subject to frequent
losses from the hostile incursions of the former of these tribes, and on two or
three occasions came very near being burnt out47 by their unsparing enemies.
47
A portion of the Fort was formerly constructed of wood;-it is now built of "adobies" like other trading establishments of
the country.
The country in the neighborhood of Fort Hall affords several extensive valleys
upon the Snake river and its tributaries, which are rich, well timbered, and
admirably adapted to the growth of grain and vegetables.
The adjoining prairies also, to some extent, possess a tolerable soil, and abound
in a choice variety of grasses. Back from the valleys and plains, the landscape is
extremely rugged and mountainous, poorly timbered, and bears the character of
general sterility.
My stay at the Fort brought me in contact with gentlemen from various parts of
Oregon; who kindly imparted to me all the information in their possession relative
to the nature and true condition of this interesting and highly important section of
our national domain. With the data thus obtained, assisted by subsequent
personal observation and intelligence derived from other sources, I am enabled
to arrange the following brief outlines of its geography, geology, climate, and soil,
including a description of its productions, inhabitants, natural advantages,
inducements to emigrants, &c., which the reader may rely upon as strictly correct
in every essential particular.
With the northern extremity of Bear river valley, the traveller enters the
southeastern limits of Oregon Territory. By referring to the map it will be seen
that this country is bounded upon the north48 by the British and Russian
possessions, east by the Rocky Mountains, south by Upper California, and west
by the Pacific. It is not my present purpose to argue, or endeavor to sustain, the
claims of our Government to the whole area embraced in the above; but
conceiving the matter now settled, I shall proceed to the task in hand without
further preliminary.
Oregon, like California, is possessed of many important rivers and harbors, that,
considering their intimate relation to the general interest of commerce, seem to
demand our first attention. The Columbia and its branches water almost the
entire territory, and open a highway from the ocean to the lofty mountain ranges
which form its eastern boundary. This river heads in lat. 52° north, long. 119°
west from Greenwich, and, after pursuing a serpentine course for fifteen hundred
or two thousand miles, finds its discharge in the Pacific, at lat. 46° north.
One hundred and twenty miles of this distance are navigable for ships of the
largest class, but the remainder of its course is interrupted by occasional rapids
and falls, that render frequent portages necessary.
The upper and lower "dalls" and "cascades," present the most serious
impediments to navigation. The former of these, situated above Clarke's Fork,
are caused by the passage of the Columbia through immense ledges, that leave
48
The treaty now in process of negotiation with Great Britain, relinquishes to that government all above the 49th deg., and
consequently admits its claims to the entire northern boundary, to wit: from 49° to the Russian possessions.
huge vertical walls of basaltic rock upon either side, and compress its waters to a
narrow, chasm-like channel. There, dashing and foaming in wild fury, the torrent
rushes past its lateral dikes with frightful velocity.
The distance between these two "dalls" is some thirty miles.
The "cascades" lie at the base of a mountain range of the same name, one
hundred and fifty miles from the Ocean. Near this place the whole stream is
plunged over a precipice of fifty feet descent, forming a sublime and magnificent
spectacle.
Between the dalls and cascades, a reach of high-lands, formed almost entirely of
naked basalt, presents another barrier, through which the river forces itself by a
tunnel-like pass for ten or fifteen miles, leaving vast mural piles upon the right
and left, that attain an altitude of three hundred and fifty or four hundred feet.
A few miles above the junction of the southern and middle forks of the Columbia,
two considerable lakes have been formed by the compressure of its waters
among the adjoining mountains.
The first of these is about twenty miles long and six broad, shut in by high,
towering hills, covered with stately pine forests.
Emerging from this, the river urges its way through lofty embankments of
volcanic rock for some five miles or more, when a second lake is formed in a
similar manner, which is about twenty-five miles in length and six in width.
NOTE.— Capt. Fremont, in speaking of the Columbia, makes use of the following
just observations:
"The Columbia is the only river which traverses the whole breadth of the country,
breaking through all the ranges, and entering into the sea. Drawing its waters
from a section of ten degrees of latitude in the Rocky Mountains, which are
collected into one stream by three main forks (Lewis', Clarke's, and the North
Fork) near the centre of the Oregon valley, this great river thence proceeds by a
single channel into the sea, while its three forks lead each to a pass in the
mountains, which opens the way into the interior of the continent.
“This fact, in reference to the rivers of this region, gives an immense value to the
Columbia. Its mouth is the only inlet and outlet to and from the sea; its three forks
lead to passes in the mountains; it is, therefore, the only line of communication
between the Pacific and the interior of North America; and all operations of war
or commerce, of national or social intercourse, must be conducted upon it."
There are also several other lakes, of greater or less extent, at different points
along its course.
Perhaps no river in the world, of the same length, affords such varied and
picturesque scenery as does the Columbia.
Its lakes, tunnels, cascades, falls, mountains, rocky embankments, prairies,
plains, bottoms, meadows, and islands, disclose an agreeable medley of wild
romance, solemn grandeur, and pleasing beauty, far surpassing that of ally other
country.
During its course it receives numerous tributaries, the most important of which
are the Clarke, Flat-bow, Spokan, Okanagan, Snake, Yakama, Piscous,
Entyatecoom, Umatilla, Quisnel, John Day, D'Chute, Cathlatates, Walla-walla,
Wallammette, and Cawlitz.
The Clarke, Snake, and Wallammette rivers, seem to call for more than a bare
allusion.
The former of these rises in the Rocky Mountains, near lat. 46° north, and
following its windings, is about five hundred and fifty miles in length. A lake, some
thirty miles long and eight broad, is also formed in its course, about one hundred
miles above its mouth. During its windings it receives a large number of affluents,
which unite to swell the volume of its waters to the full size of its parent stream.
The Snake, or Lewis' Fork, is equally important. It rises in lat. 42° north, and,
pursuing a northwesterly direction for five hundred miles, is discharged into the
Columbia, at lat. 46° north. This river also receives several tributaries, the largest
of which are the Kooskooskie and Salmon.
The Wallamette heads in the Cascade Mountains, in Upper California, near lat.
41° north, and bears a northerly course for nearly three hundred and fifty miles.
One hundred and twenty-five miles of this distance are navigable for boats of a
light draught.
Several tributaries, both from the east and west, unite to increase its magnitude
and enhance its importance.
The Umpqua, which is the next river worthy of notice below the Columbia, has its
source in the Cascade Mountains, near lat. 43° north, and running westerly for
almost three hundred miles, is finally discharged into the Pacific. Some forty or
fifty miles of this distance are said to be navigable.
South of the Umpqua a stream of nearly equal size empties into the Pacific,
called Rogue's river. This also rises in the Cascade Mountains, at lat. 42° north,
and is said to be navigable for boats of a light draught, some seventy miles or
more.
The Chilkeelis is the first river north of the Columbia, and rises in the mountains,
near lat. 48° north. Pursuing a westerly course, it discharges itself into the Pacific
at Gray's Harbor, after flowing a distance of about two hundred and fifty miles.
Fraser's river is the extreme northern one of Oregon. It heads in the Rocky
Mountains, near lat 54° north, and empties into the Gulf of Georgia, at lat 49°
north. In its course it receives several large tributaries, and pursues its way for a
distance of about four hundred miles, eighty of which are navigable.
Besides those above named, there are several other streams, of less magnitude,
emptying into the Pacific at various points along its coast, all of which, as the
country becomes settled, will contribute to the facilities of commerce and
manufactures.
The rivers of Oregon, in the abundance and quality of their fish, are unparalleled.
At certain seasons of the year, their waters are completely alive with the
countless myriads that swarm them to their very sources.
Even the small streams are not exempt from this thronging population. So great
is their number they are frequently taken by the hand; and, with the aid of a net,
several barrels may be caught at a single haul. It requires but little effort to obtain
them, and large quantities are annually shipped to the Sandwich Islands and
various other points.
Fish are undoubtedly destined to furnish an important item in the future
commerce of Oregon. At the present time they supply the principal food of its
inhabitants, both Indians and whites. Among the different varieties abounding in
these streams, salmon and salmon trout claim the precedence, both in numbers
and qualities.
These delicious fish attain a size seldom surpassed, and are found in every
accessible river and creek. The bays, harbors, and mouths of rivers are also
thronged with cod, herring, sturgeon, and occasionally whales, while vast
quantities of oysters, clams, lobsters, &c., may be obtained along the coast.
Next to fish, in connection with the rivers, the extraordinary number of aquatic
birds arrests the attention. These consist of geese, brants, ducks (of three or four
varieties,) swans, pelicans, and gulls.
At certain seasons, they throng the rivers, creeks, lakes, and ponds, at different
parts, in innumerable multitudes, and not only keep the waters in constant turmoil
from their nautic exercises and sports, but fill the air with the wild clamor of their
incessant quackings. An expert sportsman may kill hundreds of them in a few
hours.
So abundant are they that their feathers may be obtained of the Indians in any
requisite quantity, for a trifling consideration—in all respects equal, for bedding,
to those procured from domesticated geese and ducks.
In regard to harbors, the natural advantages of Oregon are not equal to those of
California; though, as the country becomes settled, the ingenuity of man will
speedily atone for these apparent deficiencies; and if she has not the matchless
basin of the Bay of San Francisco, she has other localities upon her sea-board
that, with a small expenditure of money and effort, may be made secure and
adapted to all her commercial requirements.
It is much to be regretted, however, that the Columbia affords not an easy and
secure entrance for ships from the Ocean, as this will undoubtedly become the
most important point of the whole coast.
At present, the mouth of this river, between Points Adams and Hancock is
partially blocked up by large sand-bars, deposited by the current, and maintained
in their places through the repulsive action of the sea-waves.
How far these impediments may operate to the future detriment of commerce,
remains to be seen. Unless some remedy should be adopted, the harbor of this
great embryo depot of Western trade will continue to oppose a difficult entrance.
The estuaries of the Umpqua and Rogue rivers are more difficult of access than
the Columbia. It is even said, that there is not a good harbor on the coast of
Oregon below lat. 46° north. Above this parallel there are several, not only easy
of access but secure of anchorage; the principal of which are those of the Straits
of Juan de Fuca and the Gulf of Georgia. The islands of Vancouvre and Queen
Charlotte49 also possess a number of excellent harbors.
These islands are large, well timbered, and generally fertile. Though, like the
mainland, quite broken and hilly, they embrace many beautiful plains and lovely
valleys, abounding with game, and coursed by ample streams of fresh water.
Vancouvre's Island is two hundred and sixty miles long by fifty in width, and
Queen Charlotte's one hundred and forty by twenty-eight. In addition to the
above named, there are a number of small islands near the Straits of Juan de
Fuca — more important on account of their fisheries than the quality of their soil.
The whole extent of the sea-coast, connected with the territory, (i.e. from
California to the Russian possessions,) is about one thousand miles, besides that
of its various islands. Reckoning from the above data, the area included within its
limits is not far from nine hundred and two thousand, two hundred and fifty
square miles.
To speak of this vast country in toto, we could give no general character other in
regard to its climate, soil, or productions, possessed, as it is, of very diversity,
from the piercing frosts of perpetual winter, to the smiling verdancy of unfading
spring — from the dwarfish herbage of the arctic regions, to the generous fruits of
warmer zones—and from the barren sterility of a Lybian desert, to the exuberant
fecundity of earth's choicest garden-spots.
49
By the terms of the proposed treaty, the islands of Vancouvre and Queen Charlotte are transferred to Great Britain,
leaving only a few diminutive and comparatively valueless ports in the Straits of Juan de Fuca and in islets south of
Vaneouvre, within the limits of the U. S. territory.
However, from the numerous peaks that rear their cloud-capped heads in almost
every direction, and the continuous ridges intersecting it from side to side and
from end to end, we might with safety pronounce it mountainous.
The Rocky Mountains, forming its eastern boundary, branch off westerly and
northwesterly at various points, and, in connection with other ridges, beline the
whole country. It is my present purpose merely to classify some of the more
extensive of these ranges, and note their locality, as auxiliary to more accurate
and comprehensive disposal of the leading subject before the reader.
The Blue Mountain chain commences not far from 45° 30' north latitude, and
bears a southerly course, till it passes into California and unites with the
intersecting ridges of that province. It runs nearly parallel with the Rocky
Mountains, at an interval varying from one hundred to one hundred and fifty
miles, forming the Eastern Division of Oregon.
The Cascade chain (before noticed, in connection with California) commences in
the Russian possessions, and pursues a southerly course through both
countries, till it finally becomes lost in the sea-girt isthmus of the Lower province.
It runs parallel with the coast, at a distance varying from one hundred to one
hundred and fifty miles, and defines the Western and Middle Divisions of Oregon.
The country north of the Columbia is also traversed by numerous branches and
spurs of the Rocky and Cascade Mountains, many of them presenting lofty
peaks, covered with never-melting snow and ice.
The mountain ranges before described, have many summits towering far above
the snow-line. They are generally less sterile than the main chain of the Rocky
Mountains, and, amid their snow-clad tops and denuded eminences, present
alternate spreads of high table land and rolling prairie, clothed with vegetation,
and dense forests of pine, cedar, fir, and oak, or opening valleys arrayed in all
the enchantment of vernal loveliness.
The Eastern, or Southeasterly Division of Oregon, partakes of a greater variety of
wild and savage scenery, intermixed with beauty and desolation, than any other
section in the whole territory.
The valleys of Bear river and those parts contiguous to Fort Hall, have already
been described on a preceding page, and all their varied attractions fully
descanted upon. Besides these, there are other valleys in the neighborhood of
the South Pass, upon Little and Big Sandy, and the New Forks of Green river,
that claim a passing notice.
The valleys last referred to are of variable width and possess a fertile soil,
adapted to either grazing or agricultural purposes, and assume an additional
importance from their situation in reference to the grand routes from the United
States to Oregon and California. They are capable of sustaining a small
population with peculiar advantage, were it not for the troubles that might be
anticipated from the hostile incursions of the Blackfeet and Sioux.
Below Fort Hall, the valleys of Snake, or Lewis' river, are somewhat limited, but
very fertile, though enclosed for the most part by denuded and sterile mountains.
In the vicinity of Fort Boise, on the bank of Lewis' Fork, are several rich and
extensive plains and valleys, more or less adapted to cultivation.
The Kooskooskie and Salmon rivers, also, present some fine bottoms. Another
beautiful valley is situated upon Powder river, a considerable creek, about forty
miles below Fort Boise. It is large and very fertile, but lacks a sufficiency of timber
without a resort to the dense pine forests of the neighboring hills.
The next section that attracts the traveller's attention as he proceeds towards the
Columbia, is a favored spot known as le Grand Rond, bounded on all sides by
mountains, in the vicinity of the Blue range. This locality is nearly circular, and
about one hundred and fifty miles in circumference, well watered and possesses
a soil of matchless fertility.50
Timber of the best kind may be procured, in any quantity, from the adjoining
mountains, and, to a limited extent, from the valley.
Trappers speak of the Grand Rond with an enthusiasm which is cordially
responded to by all who have hitherto visited it. So far as soil and climate are
concerned, a better section of country than this is rarely found.
Southeast from the place last described, sixty miles or more, lies a long stretch of
desolate country which bears a strikingly volcanic appearance.
This region is thickly paved with vast piles of lava and igneous rock, strown about
in confused fragments, as if the mountains had been rent asunder and dashed in
horrid medley upon the adjoining plains, and earth, itself, had undergone all the
indescribable contortions of more than agony, —now opening in frightful chasms,
—now vibrating with unheard of violence, oversetting hills and rooting them from
their foundations by the impetuosity of its motion, or elevating half vertically, the
immense layers of subterranean rock forming the valves of distorted fissures,
and depressing the opposing ones in frightful contrast, — in haste to complete
the picture of destruction by an imposing array of wild and savage scenery.
50
The following analysis of the soil of this valley, as furnished by Col. Fremont, will attest its superior quality:
Silicia
Alumnia
Lime and magnesia.
Oxade of iron
Vegetable matter partly decomposed
Water and looss
Phosphate of lime.
70,81
10,97
1,38
2,21
8,16
5,46
1,01
100, 00
Numerous boiling springs are also found among these wide-spread heaps of
ruined nature whose waters are frequently so hot that meat may be cooked in a
very few minutes by submersion in them.
Several streams trace their way through this region, affording occasional bottoms
of fertile soil and luxuriant vegetation, that smile with bewitching enchantment
upon the relentless havoc surrounding them.
Upon Clarke's river and its tributaries, as well as the numerous lakes adjacent to
them, there are large quantities of excellent land, well adapted to agricultural and
grazing purposes. The hills, too, are generally studded with dense forests of pine
and fir, some of them of gigantic growth, while the intervening plateaux and high
prairies present frequent intervals of lusty grasses.
The same may be said, though in a more restricted sense, of most of the country
lying between Clarke's river and the Columbia.
The streams of water and lakes are most of them skirted with bottoms and
valleys of greater or less extent, tolerably well timbered, while the neighboring
hills afford frequent groves of heavy pines, diversified with openings of grass-clad
prairies or of denuded barrenness.
Many interesting localities lie along the Columbia, above the confluence of
Clarke's river, as well as upon the several tributaries finding their way into it. A
tract of country circumjacent to the Lower Lake possesses a rich soil, with other
advantages, which in due time will command the attention of emigrants.
The section lying still north of this is but little better than a barren waste of frost
and snow, with now and then choice spots of rank vegetation and rich floral
beauty, shut up in their stern recesses, in wonderful contrast with the savage
sublimity and wild disorder of the masses of naked rock that surround them.
Frasier's river has an extensive valley of excellent and well timbered land, skirting
it in variable width, from mouth to source. The same may be said of many of its
tributaries. The Chilkeelis, also, possesses many choice spots.
But, as a general thing, that portion of country north of the Columbia is the most
worthless part of Oregon.
A vast share of it is mere naked rock or deserts of ice and snow, with now and
then dense forests of pine, cedar, and fir. There are, comparatively, few arable
prairies; and not more than one half of the whole extent can be turned to any
useful purpose. Perhaps one sixth of it is susceptible of cultivation. In fact, the
only localities worthy of mention are the valleys scattered among the Claset and
Cascade Mountains, and along the different rivers and creeks.
The cause of this general sterility is more to be attributed to the severity of the
climate, consequent upon a high northern latitude, combined with the broken and
mountainous character of the country, than to any great natural deficiency of soil.
Of course it can never become thickly populated.
Its timber, fisheries, and facilities for manufactures, stock-raising, and the growth
of wool, embrace its greatest inducements to emigrants; though, in a commercial
point of view, its extensive fur trade and commodious harbors, with other kindred
advantages, should not be overlooked.
We now come to the Middle Division, or that section south of the Columbia,
between the Blue and Cascade Mountains.
In this division of Oregon the face of the country is very much diversified. As a
whole, it presents a continued series of conical hills, huge masses of rock, and
undulating prairies, intermixed with lofty, cloud-capped peaks, shooting
transversely from the ridges that form its eastern and western boundaries. These
mountains are usually clothed with rank vegetation, and frequently present
stately forests of valuable timber, particularly the Blue range.
It also contains many extensive valleys of great fertility, situated among its
mountains and upon the John Day, Quisnell, Umatilla, D'Chute, and Wallawalla
rivers, and their numerous affluents.
The southern extremity likewise affords many fertile and extensive valleys, but it
is rather sparsely timbered. In the immediate vicinity of the Columbia, the land is
sandy and barren, though back from the river, the hills are tolerably rich and
coated with heavy pine forests.
Nearly the whole of this section may be considered available for agriculture and
stock-raising.
The Western Division next commands our attention. Below the Cascades, the
country contiguous to the Columbia presents a vast extent of thickly timbered
and extremely fertile bottom land, one hundred and twenty miles wide,
interspersed with frequent openings of lusty vegetation.
The forests of this section afford some of the largest and most beautiful pine and
fir trees in the world. Its valleys, plains, and hills are likewise possessed of a
most excellent soil, adapted to every practicable use.
Above this, and bordering upon the Straits of Juan de Fuca are also large tracts
of fine land, well watered, timbered, and fertile.
Southward, towards the confines of California, the Umpqua and Rogue rivers
claim several very extensive and fertile valleys and bottom lands. Upon the
former of these are said to be two, one of which is forty miles in length by ten in
width, and the other seventy by fifteen;—upon the latter, is one eighty miles long,
and varying from fifteen to fifty in width.
Besides the above mentioned, there are numerous other valleys, all of which are
well timbered and of unparalleled fertility.
No country in the world affords a better soil, or a more romantic scenery. The
mountains bounding them rise in stately grandeur, oftentimes far above the
clouds, to converse with the relentless snows of successive ages, now
presenting their nude sides, paved with dark masses of frowning rocks, or proud
forests of evergreen, verdant lawns, flowery dales, and sterile wastes, to
overlook the perennial beauty and matchless fecundity at their feet, —while the
lesser eminences with their deep ravines, o'erhanging cliffs, and shadowy
recesses, tell the place where the storm-winds recruit their forces and the
zephyrs creep in to die.
There are also large valleys, of equally fertile soil, upon the head waters of the
Tlameth river, near the southern boundary, well worth the attention of emigrants.
The most interesting portion of the Western Division, however, is that bordering
upon the Wallammette and its affluents. The valley of this river is one hundred
and fifty miles long by thirty-five broad. The soil is a deep alluvion, of
extraordinary fertility.
It is not only well watered, but well timbered, and produces all the vegetables,
fruits, and grasses indigenous to the country, with astonishing profuseness. No
region was ever better adapted to agricultural or grazing purposes.
The Fualitine Plains, adjoining this beautiful expanse of fertility upon the left,
towards the Columbia, embrace an area of forty-five miles in length by fifteen in
breadth, well watered and amply timbered, with a soil in all respects equal.
The Klackamus, Putin, Fualitine, Yamhill, and other rivers, are all of them skirted
by beautiful and fertile valleys of greater or less extent, while the adjacent hills
and prairies afford not only frequent forests of excellent timber, but generally a
very good soil.
The landscape of this vicinity, though not, strictly speaking, hilly, is highly
indulating, but quite productive in grass and herbage.
The Cawlitz river, which empties into the Columbia a short distance below the
Wallammette, has several rich bottoms, and waters a large extent of country,
admirably adapted to stock-raising and agriculture.
At the mouth of the Wallammette river is an island some fifteen miles in length by
nearly the same distance in breadth, called Wappato; it is of a deep alluvial soil,
formed from sedimentary deposites and decayed vegetable substances, and is
very rich and densely timbered.
The country at the mouth of the Columbia and for some ten or fifteen miles
interior, is sandy and sterile, —a fact much to be regretted, as from its peculiar
locality this point must necessarily become the site of a vastly important
commercial emporium, vying in population, splendor, and opulence, the timegrown cities of more eastern climes.
The stately forests of pine and fir, in the Western Division of Oregon, have for a
long time challenged the admiration of the world, and it is strongly doubted
whether the chosen veterans of foreign woods can produce a rival to some few
specimens of the proud giants of its soil.
These not unfrequently tower to a height of two hundred feet, and even more, —
leaving from one hundred and fifty to one hundred and seventy-five feet clear of
limb, with scarcely a curve in the entire length.
One of them, standing near Fort George on the Columbia river, is said to
measure forty-seven feet in circumference, three hundred and fifty feet in
altitude, and two hundred and sixty-five feet clear of limb; another, upon the
Umpqua river, is reported even larger, and yet another, in the same vicinity, very
nearly equals it in size.
Timber of this kind affords the choicest article for lumber, which bears a very high
price at the Sandwich Islands and in various parts of Mexico, and will no doubt
become a staple commodity in the commerce of Oregon; while the immense
forests of pine, fir, and oak, rearing their stately heads in thick array, must prove
a sure source of wealth to its future inhabitants.
The principal kinds of wood indigenous to the country are white-oak, live-oak,
maple, ash, pine, fir, cedar, hemlock, spruce, cottonwood, aspen, and cherry.
Live-oak is found chiefly in the southern part, and, in quality, stands foremost
among the denizens of the forest for ship-building. Several other species of oak
are more or less abundant in various parts.
In review of the subjects occupying the preceding pages, we may present the
following summary:
Nearly one-fifth of the entire territory is timbered; three-eighths of it may be
successfully cultivated, (embracing the richest lands in the Federal Domain.) and
two-thirds of it may afford pasturage for cattle, horses, and sheep.
It is generally better watered and much better timbered than California; and,
though its harbors are inferior in regard to safety and ease of access, Oregon
possesses other advantages, aside from soil and climate, compensating, in some
measure, for these obvious deficiencies, and which combine to render it a most
eligible point of emigration.
CHAPTER XXVI.
Climate of Oregon; its variableness; its rains; a southern climate in a northern
latitude. Productiveness; grain, fruits, and flowers, wild and cultivated. Geological
characteristics. Soils and prevailing rock. Minerals, &c. Variety of game. Wolves.
Horses, and other domestic animals. Population, white and native; Indian tribes,
their character and condition. Missionary stations, and their improvements.
Present trade of Oregon. Posts of the Hudson Bay Company. Settlements.
Oregon City, its situation and advantages; about Linnton; about Wallammette
valley, Fualitine plains and Umpqua river; Vancouvre, and its superior
advantages. Kindness of Hudson Bay Company to settlers.
THE next which seems to demand our notice, in due order, is the climate of this
interesting country.
We need only bear in mind the geographical position and diversified character of
Oregon, to satisfy ourselves of the true merits of the subject now before us. A
mountainous country like this must necessarily embrace every variety of climate,
from that of the ice-bound coasts and ever-scathing frosts of the polar regions, to
the burning heat of the equator, from the mild atmosphere of Italian skies, to the
genial temperature which paints the wild-flowers in their primeval beauty, while
month succeeding month doles out the year, nor feels nor knows the chill-breath
of winter.
A short jaunt at any time translates the traveller, at his own option, to regions of
winter, spring, summer, or fall, and spreads before him all the varied beauties
and deformities of either.
As a general thing, however, the winters of Oregon are much more temperate
than those of countries in the same latitude bordering upon the Atlantic—a fact
which may be attributed to the usual prevalence of westerly winds at that season.
These winds, on passing the mountains and traversing the vast extent of snowy
prairie and open land in their course, become vested with a chilling severity
unknown to its incipiency, when, from the warm bosom of the broad Pacific, they
first waft themselves o'er the blooming valleys, smiling plains, grass-clad hills,
and mountains garbed in stately forests, commingled with stern desolation, to
lavish upon all these varied scenes the soft blandishments of the Indies, and
engender the interesting phenomenon of a southern climate in a high northern
latitude.
The country contiguous to Frasier's river, and even below it for some distance, is
usually visited with long and severe winters, and enjoys comparatively but a short
interval of genial weather during the spring and summer months.
The valleys, however, not unfrequently afford exceptions to this remark, when
favorably located in regard to the wind and sun. In this section it seldom rains, a
circumstance causing an unproductive and arid soil.
The Eastern Division is, perhaps, more variable in regard to temperature than
any other portion of Oregon. Its valleys are usually possessed of a mild and
delightful climate, so much so that stock will subsist the entire winter without
being fed or housed.
The plains and high prairies present a longer interval of inclement weather, and
the snow continues on the ground for a much greater length of time, than in the
low-lands.
Some particular localities are subject to very sudden changes, and not
unfrequently experience the warm breath of summer with the chill blasts of freshborn winter during the short lapse of a single day and night.
In reference to the high mountains, it is sufficient to remark, that with them winter
is a season too congenial not to be felt in all its rigors, to the entire extent of its
duration. The diversity of temperature in these parts depends mostly upon the
altitude. The lower benches experiencing a mild atmosphere even in the severest
weather, permit the snow to remain only for a short interval succeeding its fall,
and woo the willing spring; while the higher ones treasure up each descending
flake to nourish the scathing blasts that leap from the mountain-tops, freshcradled in the lap of winter.
Notwithstanding these apparent disadvantages, the Eastern Division may be
regarded as universally healthy. The purity of the atmosphere, and its absence
from noxious exhalations and disease-engendering effluvia, undoubtedly
contribute the prime cause in producing a result so favorable.
Rains are not usual to this part in the summer months, nor even in the winter and
spring are they common to any great. extent. The snows of winter, together with
the rains of that season and autumn, and the occasional dews of summer, in
most cases, afford a sufficient moisture to the low-lands for agricultural purposes.
That section situated between the Blue and Cascade Mountains, known as the
Middle Division, is said to possess, comparatively, a much milder and less
variable climate.
The winters are usually open and of short duration, snow lying upon the ground,
in the valleys, rarely exceeding four days in succession, and vegetation, in some
instances, remains green the entire season. The prairies, too, are generally
covered only for a short time.
The heat of summer lacks that oppressiveness so common to most countries. In
regard to the health of this section, we may correctly apply the observations
made relative to the Eastern Division. A country situated like the one now forming
the subject of our remarks, cannot be otherwise than healthy, as a general thing.
The snow of winter and the rains of spring and autumn, coupled with the light
dews of summer, furnish all the moisture usual to the soil, which the moderate
heat of the latter season renders sufficient for the growth of vegetation and the
production of grain and other crops.
The Western Division possesses not only a soil but a climate more favorable to
vegetation than any other portion of Oregon. In the southern part it seldom
snows, and the weather is so mild, that the grass continues green and flourishing
the entire year. Water never freezes, unless it be in some elevated pool or lake.
The absence of sufficient rains and dews, however, during the summer months
at some points, renders an occasional resort to irrigation necessary for the
production of corn, potatoes, and articles of a like nature.
Two crops of some kinds of produce may be raised with success in a single year.
In the vicinity of the Wallammette, the winters are only a trifle colder. Running
water seldom freezes. Snow never falls to exceed the depth of a few inches, and
disappears in a very short time succeeding.
Vegetation in the valleys, and even upon the plains, to some extent, remains
green year in and year out. Of course no better climate could be selected for
stock-raising.
These remarks may be applied with equal propriety to the other portions of the
Western Division south of the Columbia and in its immediate vicinity. The country
further north, for a considerable distance, possesses a climate almost as
favorable. The snows of winter, however, are usually more frequent and less
transitory in their continuance.
The cold season is confined almost exclusively to the three winter months. The
heat of summer is moderate and agreeable, generally ranging at 62° Fahrenheit,
above zero, in its mean temperature.
The wet season of the Western Division usually occurs from October to March of
each year, inclusive; at other times rain seldom falls. During this season it
descends in gentle showers, or in the shape of mist, at intervals, for about one
half of the time. The moisture received into the earth meanwhile; together with
the nightly dews and other favorable agencies during the summer months,
renders the soil adapted to cultivation.
Back from the valleys and bottoms, the atmosphere is quite wholesome and
salubrious. Fevers are seldom known, and pulmonary complaints are equally
rare.
In the vicinity of the Columbia, intermittent fevers are not uncommon, though by
no means as bad as in some parts of our frontier States.
Next in the order before us come the various productions which may be, and are,
successfully cultivated in the different sections of this part of our national domain.
The soil and climate of the Eastern Division have been sufficiently tested to know
their capacity for producing nearly, if not quite, all the various grains, vegetables,
and fruits usually grown in our Northern and Middle states. A great variety of wild
fruits and vegetables grow spontaneously, in different parts, and in great
abundance.
The soil and climate, as a whole, seem better adapted to the culture of fruits and
grains, than vegetables; and perhaps we might add, for the raising of cattle,
horses, and sheep, than agriculture; though the latter observation is not to be so
construed as to affirm that farming may not be successfully and profitably
prosecuted in many parts.
The Northern Division, or that portion of Oregon lying on the headwaters of the
Columbia, in the vicinity and south of Frasier's river, and upon the Chilkeelis,
being much colder and more sterile, must necessarily be regarded in a less
favorable light than the country referred to in the preceding paragraph. But, little
is known as to its products or the capacities of its soil and climate; yet, it is said
that some particular kinds of fruit are indigenous to this region, and it is generally
supposed that wheat, barley, oats, buckwheat, flax, and other articles of like
nature, might be raised within it. Of course, these remarks apply only to the
valleys.
The Middle Division affords a finer soil and a more favorable climate than the
Eastern; but, in regard to productions, it is much the same. All the northern fruits,
grains, and vegetables, may be produced in great abundance, with the exception
of corn — the land being generally too dry and too much subject to unseasonable
frosts; corn, however, has been successfully cultivated on the Wallawalla.
There are several varieties of wild fruits found here, among which are included
cherries, with larb, bufal, goose, and service berries, and currants, plums, and
grapes, together with several other species not recollected, as well as vegetables
and roots.
The Western Division not only maintains its pre-eminence in relation to soil and
climate, but stands equally conspicuous in the variety and abundance of its
productions. It is thought, and not without reason, that cotton, sugar-cane, and
various other productions of a warm and even tropical climate might here be
raised without difficulty.
When the ground is in a suitable condition, the average crop of wheat is from
twenty to twenty-five bushels to the acre. Vast quantities of it are annually
produced by settlers in different parts of the country. A surplus of one hundred
thousand bushels is reported to have been grown, in the region adjoining the
Wallammette, during the summer of 1844.
The Hudson Bay Company, at Fort Vancouvre, have several very extensive
farms under improvement, upon which they raise nearly every variety of grain
and vegetables, with flattering success.
In the garden of McLaughlin, the chief factor of this company, are found almost
every species of fruits and flowers indigenous to this country and to foreign soils
of the same latitude, with several varieties produced only in warm climates.
We barely allude to the above facts, in order to prove the adaptation of Western
Oregon to agricultural pursuits. The data relative to its extraordinary facilities for
rearing countless herds of cattle, horses, and sheep, have already been placed
before the reader, and need not here a repetition.
The components of the soils of Oregon are equally varied in character, according
to their situation. The bottoms are usually of a deep, sandy alluvion, intermixed
with vegetable and organic matter. The valleys are of a heavy loam, enriched by
the debris and other fertilizing properties borne from the high grounds by the
annual rains, together with the constant accumulation of decayed herbage and
grass so lavishly bestrown at each returning season.
The prairies are possessed of either a light sandy superfice, or a mixture of
gravel and stiff clay. The superstratum of the hills and mountains varies from
wastes of naked sand, sun-baked clay, and spreads of denuded rock, to a thin
vegetable mould, and a light marly loam of greater or less fecundity.
The rock of this territory also presents many different specimens; the prominent
classifications, however, are volcanic, viz: basalt, (columnar and scoriated,) trap,
lava, pumicestone, limestone (fossiliferous, bituminous, ad earthy,) and mica
slate, with sandstone, puddingstone, granular quartz, calcareous tufa, and
agglomerated boulders of various kinds, particularly in the Eastern Division. The
varieties of some parts present strong characteristics of the oolite formation. The
hills contain many excellent quarries for the structure of buildings or other useful
purposes.
Hitherto but little investigation has been had relative to the mineral resources of
Oregon; though sufficient is known to warrant the statement, that copper, lead,
iron, coal, salt, soda, sulphur, nitre, and alum, are abundant in some parts; and,
from the nature of the country, we may safely infer that yet more valuable metals
are waiting to reward with their hidden treasures the researches of man.
Game, in the Eastern and Middle Divisions, is not generally plentiful; yet, in
places, there are an abundance of deer, elk, antelope, bear, wolves, and
foxes;— buffalo are also found occasionally in the vicinity of the Rocky
Mountains. In the Northern Division, moose, deer, elk, bear, foxes, and wolves,
are the varieties most common. Game is more abundant in the Western than in
the other Divisions, and is nearly of the same kind.
Ducks, geese, brants, pheasants, partridges, &c., are common throughout the
whole territory.
Wolves are very numerous in the neighborhood of the settlements, and prove a
great source of annoyance to the inhabitants by preying upon their cattle and
other stock. These wolves consist of three kinds, —the black, gray, and prairie
wolf, of which, as in California, the black wolf is the largest and most ferocious.
As a grazing country, the available lands of the three divisions of Oregon, south
of the Columbia and the one immediately north of that river, are little inferior, if,
indeed, not fully equal, to the far-famed meadows and lawns of California.
Horses are reared in vast numbers by the Indians, among whom it is not
uncommon to find a single individual owning three or four hundred head. Select
horses may be bought at prices ranging from twelve to twenty dollars each.
These animals are generally stout and hardy, capable of enduring a vast amount
of fatigue, and are but little inferior in point of size to our American nags.
Large herds of horses are also raised by the settlers, and at the Hudson Bay
Company's establishments.
Latterly, cattle, hogs, and sheep, are beginning to receive the attention of the
farming community, and, without doubt, soon will become immensely numerous.
It needs only the operation of time to render Oregon as famous for its countless
herds, as for the abundance and variety of its productions.
The entire population of the territory at this time, may be estimated at thirty-five
thousand, of which about seven thousand are whites and half-breeds, and the
balance Indians.
The Indians principally consist of the following tribes: the Snakes, Blackfeet,
Flatheads, Nesperces, Bonarks, Cyuses, Wallawallas, Chinooks, Shatchets,
Chalams, Killamucs, Squamishes, Clasets, Tonandos, Klackamus, Clatsup,
Umpquas, Klackatats, Kallapuyas, Tlamaths, and Chilkeelis.
The Blackfeet, though included among the Oregon tribes, properly belong to that
portion of the Rocky Mountains contiguous to the head waters of the Missouri.
They make occasional irruptions into the country occupied by the Flatheads,
Snakes, and Nesperces, and for this reason are included in the above list.
The Tlameths and two or three other inferior tribes in the neighborhood of
California and north of the Columbia river may be considered troublesome and
rather ill-disposed; but not dangerous, unless it be in cases where they have a
very decided advantage.
The Indians of this country are less warlike than those east of the Rocky
Mountains, and far less dangerous, even as enemies. They may be considered,
on the whole, as friendly to the whites, and quite susceptible of civilization. They
are tolerably industrious, and ready at all times to work for the settlers at a trifling
compensation.
Many of them cultivate the ground and raise corn, potatoes, beans, and melons,
—but fish, horses, and game, as a general thing, furnish their principal food. As
an evidence of their quiet disposition, they rarely go to war, and are usually found
at or near the several places claimed and occupied by them individually.
The Nesperces are, perhaps, farther advanced in civilization than any other tribe.
Many of them (and some of other tribes) are beginning to live after the manner of
the whites, and the philanthropic efforts of Christian missionaries in their behalf
have been attended with great success.
There are eight of more missionary stations in Oregon, belonging as follows: to
the Presbyterians, the Methodists, and the Roman Catholics.
Four of these are situated between the Blue and Cascade Mountains, viz: one
near the Dalls, one at Waiilatpu on the Wallawalla, one at Tshimakain, and one
at Clear Water.
The mission at Waiilatpu is under the direction of Dr. Whitman, and has a flouring
mill and a very considerable farm connected with it, upon which large quantities
of grain and vegetables are annually raised, and also numerous herds of cattle
and horses. The station near the Dalls, with the exception of a mill, is said to be
but little behind that of Waiilatpu in point of prosperity.
The remaining four are in the Western Division.
The most important of these are situated as follows: one at the Wallammette
Falls, about twenty-five miles below the Columbia, and the other in the
Wallammette valley, some forty or fifty miles farther south.
Both of the above belong to the Methodists, and may be considered rich.
There are two large farms and a store connected with the station in the
Wallammette valley, and also large herds of cattle, horses, and hogs;— it is said
to drive quite a profitable trade with the Indians and settlers in the line of dry
goods and groceries.
The station at the Wallammette Falls has also a store, and carries on a small
business by way of merchandize.
The two other stations are south and west of the last named, but have, as yet, no
very extensive improvements in connection with them.
The Methodists have a press at one of their stations in Oregon, which is
employed in printing religious books for the benefit of the Indians.
In addition to the different stations above alluded to, the Catholics have several
agents and teachers in this territory, who labor with great zeal and earnestness
to make proselytes to their own peculiar notions. The number and locality of
these agents I have not the necessary information to state. They were, not long
since, under the superintendance of one Father De Smit, a Jesuit priest, and
have exerted considerable influence among the Indian tribes.
Nearly the entire trade of Oregon, at the present time, is in the hands of the
Hudson Bay Company, from whom dry goods and groceries may be obtained by
the settlers at less than the common price in the United States; this, as a
necessary consequence, precludes all opposition. The principal exports (raised
at the stations or received by way of barter) are flour, fish, butter, cheese,
lumber, masts, spars, furs, and skins.
The Forts, or trading establishments, are eighteen in all, and have a large
number of hands employed about them, in conducting the fur trade and laboring
upon the farms and in the workshops and mills.
Each of these posts presents a miniature town by itself, whose busy populace
pursue most of the varied avocations incident to the more densely inhabited
localities of civilized countries.
We will not occupy the reader's time in an extended description of them
severally, but rest content by simply giving their names. The first post belonging
to this company, upon the route to the mouth of the Columbia, is Fort Hall; the
next, Fort Wallawalla; then, Fort Vancouvre, and Fort George.
The others are situated at different points, and are known as follows: Colville,
Okanagan, Alexandria, Barbine, Klamloops, St. James, Chilcothin, Simpson,
McLaughlin, Langley, Nisqually, Cawlitz, and Umpqua; of which eight are located
in or above lat. 49° north.
The principal settlements, disconnected from the trading establishments and
different missionary stations, at present, are upon the Umpqua and Wallammette
rivers, on the Fualitine Plains, and near Fort Vancouvre. These settlements are
represented as being in a very flourishing condition, and rapidly increasing in
population and wealth.
At the Wallammette Falls, a town has been regularly laid out called Oregon City,
which, in the year 1844, numbered a hundred or more houses; among them was
a church, with several stores and mills.
At this place the temporary legislature, already instituted by the settlers for
mutual benefit in the absence of all other legitimate jurisdiction, holds its regular
sessions. A mayor was elected in the spring of 1845; and recently a printing
press and materials have been procured from New York for the purpose of
publishing the territorial laws, with such other documents and papers as the
interests of the community may require.
This embryo city, situated as it is in a place so admirable in regard to agriculture,
commerce, and manufactures, possesses many superior advantages in point of
locality.
The falls of the Wallammette are thirty feet perpendicular, and afford abundant
water privileges for mills and factories, — two important rivers, the Klackamus
and Fualitine, find their discharge near it, while below is presented an
uninterrupted navigation to the Ocean, and above it boats may ascend for a
distance of one hundred miles or more. The country contiguous is unsurpassed
in fertility, and will undoubtedly soon acquire a dense population.
Another town, called Linnton, has recently been commenced upon the south
bank of the Columbia, near the mouth of the Wallammette river, and bids fair to
become of some importance.
The settlements in the valley above, and at the Fualitine Plains, are scattered like
those of the farming sections of our Western States;— the same observation
may also be applied in reference to those upon the Umpqua river.
The settlement at Vancouvre is more compact, and assumes the air of a
flourishing village. It is near the falls of the Columbia, at the head of ship
navigation, and is made the great commercial depot of the Hudson Bay
Company for the articles required in their trade.
Connected with the Fort is an extensive flouring mill, and also a saw mill, which is
said to do a very active and lucrative business.
The number of buildings at Vancouvre is not far from sixty. The site is a most
admirable one for some future emporium of trade and manufactures. Its water
privileges are almost without limits, while its other advantages are equally
inviting.
The geographical condition of the country is such that, as it becomes settled, an
enormous amount of commercial interest must necessarily concentrate here;
and, doubtless, a more favorable locality for a city could not be selected upon the
Columbia. It is destined to command almost the entire trade of Eastern and
Middle Oregon.
The agents of the Hudson Bay Company at present are of great advantage to
emigrants. They extend to them every reasonable assistance by selling goods
and necessaries on credit at very low prices, and receiving their various products
in payment upon most favorable terms. They furnish seed-corn, wheat, potatoes,
and other articles of like nature, to the settlers, to be returned in kind at the end
of the year, with a small additional amount by way of interest.
This company is equally accommodating in other respects. It affords employment
to numbers at a fair compensation, and supplies them with cattle, hogs, horses,
and implements of agriculture for their farms. Its agents and factors seem much
disposed to encourage the influx of emigrants, and are never backward in
evincing a friendly disposition by their acts.
CHAPTER XXVII.
The manufacturing facilities of Oregon. Commercial and agricultural advantages
reviewed. Rail Road to the Pacific. Route, mode of travelling, and requisite
equipment for emigrants. Importance of Oregon to the United States. Incident in
the early history of Fort Hall. Why the Blackfeet are hostile, and bright spots in
their character. Mild weather. Leave for the Platte. Journey to the Yampah, and
sketch of the intermediate country. New Park. Head of Grand river. The
landscape. Different routes to Fort Lancaster. Old Park.
PERHAPS no country is possessed of greater manufacturing facilities than
Oregon. Its numberless watercourses, with their frequent falls and rapids, upon
every side, point out the sites for mills and factories, while the adjoining forests
and hills produce the timber for their construction, and the metal for their
machinery; and the plains and valleys, the food for their operatives, and raw
materials for their fabrics. The ships of all nations await as their carriers, and
render accessible the best markets of the world.
A large portion of the sterile and otherwise valueless lands of the territory might
be turned to good account in the growth of wool, and the valleys and bottoms
would easily yield exhaustless supplies of flax and hemp. The southwest displays
her cotton fields, and the plains and hills hold out their rich stores of timber and
minerals; the busy operatives and thrice effective machinery of the flourishing
establishments, as yet scarcely hidden from view by the thin veil of futurity, would
achieve the transformation of these varied products into broadcloths, linens,
calicoes, and other auxiliaries of comfort and utility; while California, with the
other provinces of Mexico, the western Republics of South America, the islands
of the Pacific, the Northwestern Coast, and the numerous Indian tribes of the
interior, impatient to gaze upon the evidences of creative skill, even now stand
their willing purchasers.
With such advantages before her, who might not augur well for the future preeminence of Oregon.
But, in other respects, the prospect is still more flattering. Her extensive plains,
valleys, and bottoms, need no long lapse of time to transform them into smiling
fields; her prairies and hills will then become thronged with countless herds of
cattle and flocks of sheep, and the beef, pork, and wool of the stock-grower, the
butter and cheese of the dairyman, with all the surplus of the farmer, will find an
inviting market at the populous manufacturing towns and commercial cities that
will have sprung up close around him, nor need he look elsewhere for a more
lucrative disposal.
An interchange of commodities with China, Japan, South America, the East
Indies, and the Polynesian and Australian islands, will pour the wealth of nations
into her lap, and swell the opulence of her citizens.
A continuous rail-road, from the Mississippi and the great lakes across the Rocky
Mountains to the falls of the Columbia, (a project quite practicable, and even now
seriously contemplated,) will open a new channel for commerce, and then our
merchantmen and whalers, instead of performing a dangerous homeward-bound
voyage of twelve thousand miles, by doubling the southern extremity of Africa, or
that of the American continent, will discharge their cargoes at the ports of Oregon
for a re-shipment to every part of the Union, and thus unite their aid in the magic
work of up-building the Great West.
It is then that the mighty resources of our national confederacy will begin more
fully to develop themselves, and exhibit to an admiring world the giant strides of
civilization and improvement, when liberty is their birthright, and freemen are their
nursing fathers. It needs no prophetic eye to foresee all this, nor the effort of
centuries to transform this rough sketch of fancy into a more than sober reality.
The over-land route, from Independence, Mo., to Fort Hall, affords a good
waggon-road; but that from Fort Hall to Vancouvre is generally considered
impassable for other than pack-animals. It is said, however, that a new route has
recently been discovered, by which waggons may be taken, without much
difficulty, the entire distance. Should this report prove true, the emigrant may
convey everything needed for his comfort during the long journey before him.
Emigrants should never go in companies exceeding one hundred and fifty or two
hundred persons. The reason for this is obvious, — they will proceed more
harmoniously; there will be less difficulty in obtaining food for their animals; less
delays en route; a better opportunity for the procurement of provisions by
hunting, and the number is amply sufficient for mutual defence.
From my own experience and observation, I would advise the use of pack-mules
or horses altogether, instead of waggons. One pack-horse, suitably laden, would
convey an ample supply of provisions and other necessaries for two individuals,
if recruited by occasional levies upon the game that, in many cases, throng their
course.
A company thus equipped, can travel with far greater expedition and even more
comfortably.
In case of sickness, a litter might easily be constructed for the conveyance of the
invalid by affixing to a horse two light poles, some twelve or fifteen feet in length,
like the shafts of a wagon, the smaller extremities being fastened to the saddle
and the larger ones left to drag upon the ground, while two short pieces placed
transversely upon them, astern the horse, present the framework for a bed in
which the sufferer may repose or lie at his ease, with as much quiet as the tender
object of a mother's care in its infantile cradle.
A company acting upon the above suggestions (numbering say two hundred)
should employ an efficient pilot, with a commandant and sixteen skilful hunters.
Strict regulations for its government must also be adopted and enforced. Each
individual should be furnished with a good riding horse or a mule, a good
percussion rifle, (bore thirty or thirty-five balls per lb.,) ammunition sufficient for
five hundred rounds, and a butcher-knife, with pistols and the requisites for
procuring fire.
The company should be divided into messes of six each, and one hunter and his
assistant should be assigned to every two messes. Each mess should be
provided with three pack-mules, exclusively for the transportation of its baggage
and provision, and at least one loose animal for extra service.
It should be further furnished with two camp-kettles, a tomahawk, a large tin
mess-pan, and a tin-cup and plate for each of its number.
A light tent might also be taken if deemed necessary; though such an article is of
little use. A robe and a blanket for bedding, four shirts and a single change of
clothes are as much baggage as any individual should think of taking for his own
use. By these means his movements will be free and unincumbered, while the
whole company pursues its way with ease and rapidity.
On reaching his destination the emigrant may procure everything in the line of
dry goods, groceries, and the implements of husbandry, at less prices than in the
States; hence the folly of burthening himself with extra baggage for a long and
tiresome journey.
The immense importance of Oregon to the United States is doubtless apparent to
every one. The facts upon which this inference is based, may be briefly
presented as follows:
First. By the occupation of this country we shall secure to our own citizens the
best trade of the whole world.
Second. We shall preclude the dangerous supremacy of foreign powers upon our
western frontier, and place our relations with the intermediate Indian tribes upon
a safer and more permanent footing.
Third. We shall retain to the Union a vast territory, unexcelled in climate, rich in
soil, and exhaustless in its various resources; and thus lay open for the general
welfare new channels for commerce and fresh fields for enterprise.
Fourth. We shall (in the event of the proposed rail road) greatly enhance the
prosperity and wealth of the Western States.
Fifth. We shall prevent the annual sacrifice of an immense amount of life and
property in the navigation of a dangerous sea, for a distance of some twelve
thousand miles.
Sixth. We shall afford to our whalemen and ships engaged in the China and East
India trade ports for supplies and repairs, and thus save to ourselves the yearly
amounts now paid to foreign nations.
Seventh. We stand in actual need of some point upon the coast of the Pacific as
a rendezvous for our navy.
There are many other weighty reasons that might be adduced in support of this
inference, but why should we further review the subject? A candid perusal of the
preceding pages will have suggested them to the reader's mind without greater
amplification on our part.
In conclusion we need only to add, time will usher forth the embryo greatness
and glory of Oregon; but whether that greatness shall increase the strength, or
that glory commingle with the glowing lustre of our Federal Union, while she
figures as one in the proud family of States, or whether they, discarded by the
fostering hand of maternal care, shall assume the energy of a giant’s power and
shine with the brightness of innate effulgence as a distinct nation, depends much
on the prompt and judicious action of our government upon this momentous
subject.
During our stay at Fort Hall an incident connected with its early history was
narrated to me, which, as it tends much to illustrate the bold daring and spirit of
inbred republicanism possessed by the mass of trapping parties frequenting the
mountains, I am tempted to transcribe.
Soon after this post came into the possession of its present owners, several
squads, on returning from their regular hunts, rendezvoused in its vicinity.
According to the custom of the Hudson Bay Company on such occasions, the
British flag was hoisted in honor of the event. Thereupon the proud
mountaineers took umbrage, and forthwith sent a deputation to solicit of the
commandant its removal; and, in case he should prove unwilling to comply,
politely requesting that, at least, the American flag might be permitted a place by
its side. Both of which propositions were peremptorily refused.
Another deputation was then sent announcing that, unless the British flag should
be taken down and the stars and stripes raised in its place within two hours, they
would take it down by force, if necessary. To this was returned an answer of surly
defiance.
At the expiration of the time named the resolute trappers, mustering en masse,
appeared before the Fort, under arms, and demanded its immediate surrender.
The gates had already been closed, and the summons was answered by a shot
from the bastion. Several shots were forthwith exchanged, but without much
damage upon either side; the trappers directing their aim principally at the British
flag, while the garrison, feeling ill-disposed to shoot down their own friends in
honor of a few yards of parti-colored bunting, elevated their pieces and
discharged them into the air.
The result was that the assailants soon forced an entrance, took down and tore
in pieces the hated flag, and mounted that of their own country in its stead, amid
deafening huzzas and successive rounds of riflery.
The commandant and his sub-cronies, retreating to a room, barricaded the
entrance, when the trappers promptly demanded their surrender upon the
following terms:
1st. The American flag shall occupy its proper place hereafter.
2d. The commandant shall treat his captors to the best liquors in his possession.
3d. Unless the offenders comply with these conditions, the captors will consider
Fort Hall and its contents as lawful plunder and act accordingly.
After a short parley the besieged agreed to a capitulation. In compliance with the
second article of the terms, a barrel of whiskey, with sugar to match, was rolled
into the yard, where the head was knocked out, and the short but bloodless
campaign ended in wild frolicking, as toast after toast was drunk in fancied honor
of the American flag, and round after round of responsive cheers told who were
they that stood ever ready to proudly hail it and rally beneath its broad folds.
At the time of our visit, there were some sixty men connected with this
establishment. These consisted principally of half-breeds and Canadian French,
among whom were several who had seen service in the unrelenting war between
the whites and Blackfeet that had been so long prosecuted. Many a thrilling story
was narrated in connection with the history of this war, none of which more
interested me than the following explanation of its origin:
The Blackfeet at first were friendly to the whites, and a very considerable trade in
guns and ammunition was carried on with them by the latter. Like most savages,
they became great admirers of the potency and use of gunpowder, and were
quite curious to ascertain the process by which it could be had independent of
the whites. In answer to inquiries, they were informed it was the seed of a
species of grain, and might be multiplied in like manner to any extent by
cultivation.
Accrediting the story and captivated with the idea of raising their own powder, a
large quantity was purchased for that purpose, which was carefully planted, in full
expectation of an abundant harvest.
Their disappointment at the result will be readily supposed. Denouncing the
whites as liars and cheats, they were not slow to avow their meditated revenge.
It needed, however, yet another act of perfidy to work the more perfect
transformation of friends into foes. This soon after was consummated as follows:
The Blackfeet and Flatheads met, at an appointed place, for the purpose of trade
and the maintenance of friendly relations, as was their annual custom.
During this conference, the head chiefs of the two nations commenced
descanting upon the merits and fleetness of their respective horses, which
resulted in a banter, a bet, and a race.
The Flatheads, producing two of their fastest chargers, were backed by the
Blackfeet in a like number; and, upon the success of the particular favorites, not
only the honor of the two nations was staked, but a large amount of other
valuables. The race was run, and, the result proving close, both parties claimed
the wager.
Upon this a dispute ensued, and finally the whole matter was referred to three
white men, by whose decision they agreed to abide. The arbitrators, through
mere personal predilection, instead of pronouncing it a tie, as they should have
done, awarded the palm to the Flatheads.
The Blackfeet gave in to the decision and relinquished the stakes, but from that
day forth avowed themselves the eternal enemies of both whites and Flatheads.
This occurrence dated the commencement of an unrelenting war of extermination
on their part, nor have they permitted any suitable opportunity of wreaking their
vengeance upon the offenders to pass unimproved.
Notwithstanding the bad character generally ascribed to the Blackfeet, they
possess traits worthy of admiration. As enemies, they make no disguise of their
hostile designs; and though they have been known to meet with parties of whites
without coming in collision, and even to smoke with them; yet, on such
occasions, they have uniformly declared the armistice a temporary one, and in
force only for the time being.
Instances have been known of trappers penetrating into their villages unawares,
who received the treatment of guests during their stay, and were allowed to
depart unmolested upon expressing their wishes to that effect.
The bright spots in the character of these Indians are more fully developed in the
following example:
Several years ago, two trappers, in their excursions for beaver, discovered a
Blackfoot engaged in butchering. Thinking the present a favorable opportunity to
reduce the number of their enemies, they cautiously approached the
unsuspecting operator with the design of affording him a speedy transition to the
Spirit Land.
Having advanced within gun-shot, they were almost in the very act of firing, when
a casual glance revealed the dusky forms of savages who surrounded them at no
great distance, and in such a manner as to preclude all possibility of escape; but
as yet, however, the intended victim was ignorant of their presence.
On observing the danger of their situation, they rushed up to him, and, seizing his
hands, claimed his protection. The excitement of the moment having subsided,
he replied:
"Your lives belong to me, — you might have taken mine; it must not be said that
the Blackfoot is ungrateful. Come with me and you are safe."
Upon this he led the way to the village near by, and made them the guests of his
own family.
Everything that generous hospitality could devise for comfort and pleasure, was
placed at their disposal. The villagers seemed to vie with each other in their
attestation of friendship and good will, and repeatedly solicited them to remain
and join the tribe.
However, on expressing a wish to leave, they were escorted for some distance
en route, and left to choose their own course of travel, with the parting monition:
"We are now friends. — When next we meet it will be as enemies!"51
Nov. 20th. Yielding to the solicitations of my comrades demontés, I am again
journeying for the Platte. During the brief period of our stay at Fort Hall, we
enjoyed mild and agreeable weather, as a general thing; only one inconsiderable
51
The Blackfeet are generally accounted brave, though instances have been known of three or four whites defeating a
large party of them. On one occasion, three trappers fell into an ambuscade of these Indians, and two of them were
instantly shot from their horses, but the third was left untouched, and spurring his animal to the height of its speed, broke
through the whole throng and was soon out of reach.
Four mounted Indians immediately started in pursuit, and gained rapidly upon him till they came within shooting distance,
when the lone trapper turned upon them, and with his double-barreled rifle picked off two of their number, and again fled.
Confident of securing their intended victim, now that they supposed his fire-arms were uncharged, the remaining two
hurried after him, and in a few moments were within range of pistol-shot. The trapper then again halted, and the discharge
of a pistol brought the third to the ground.
Drawing forth a second from his belt, the work of slaughter would have been complete, had not the terrified savage, in his
turn, fled with the utmost precipitancy. The trapper pursued, but was far in the rear when the Blackfoot regained his
comrades, and hurriedly exclaimed:
"Haste, ye! flee! It was the Big Medicine we pursued, and at his word three of our warriors breathe not, and of our I only
have escaped! His single medicine iron twice spoke the death-word, and at the same time; then with his pipe-stem he
bade a third one go to the Spirit Land; and, as he drew forth his butcher-knife to shoot me, I had fled beyond reach, that I
might tell you how to escape! Haste, ye! flee! It is the Big Medicine that comes from yon! Flee, lest he kill us all!"
Following his advice, the astonished savages immediately fled with the greatest consternation, fully persuaded it was their
only mode of escaping from certain destruction at the hands of the BIG MEDICINE!
fall of snow having occurred meanwhile, and the grass, even yet, in many places,
is green and fresh.
Notwithstanding the lateness of the season, we anticipate but little difficulty in
crossing the mountains, via New Park and Grand river pass, as the journey has
been performed on several occasions in the dead of winter. But, a further
stimulant to our hopes is the possession of good mules and horses, which are
every way competent to the task before them; my two companions are, also,
intimately acquainted with the mountains, and well know how to shape our
course to advantage.
For the first few days our progress was rapid and uninterrupted. Following the
regular trail by way of Bear river, on the 24th we struck Black's fork, a
considerable tributary of Green river, and one of several in its neighborhood,
down which we continued to its confluence with the main stream; thence,
crossing to the east bank, we kept its general course, sometimes by its valley,
then again by long detours among the hills, owing to the rugged nature of the
country, and in three days subsequent, reached the Yampah, or Little Snake, an
affluent from the left.
The intermediate country from Fort Hall to the Yampah has been partially noticed
in connection with Oregon and California, and for that reason it will not be
expected of me to waste time in repetition.
I need only add, that among the hills we noticed much nude sterility, intermingled
with frequent clusters of absinthe, aretmisia (or greasewood, as it is familiarly
called,) and bunch-grass, with occasional groves of pine, cedar, and balsam.
In the valleys the grass was yet green, and indicated the presence of winter only
by its withered tops. Snow was seen only upon the hills and mountains, and even
there in no great quantity. Game appeared plentiful for most of the distance,
particularly black-tailed deer and sheep.
The section of country hereabouts is inhabited by the Snake Indians, from whom
the river above referred to derives its name.
This stream heads in the New Park Mountains, and pursues a southwest course
for about one hundred miles, receiving in that distance several large tributaries
from the east, when it finally discharges itself into Green river, near lat. 41° North.
Crossing the Yampah, we soon struck the Elk Head, or Little Bear, a principal
affluent from the right, and continuing our course up its valley. After passing a
small ridge, on the 30th Nov., we found ourselves upon the head waters of the
Platte.
Proceeding by the valley of a creek tributary to the above river. the day following
we came to a considerable branch from the south, and camped near its mouth,
for the purpose of killing buffalo of which vast numbers thronged the vicinity.
The valleys of the Yampah and Little Bear were broad, in places, with a deep soil
of dark, sandy loam, and tolerably well timbered.
The country contiguous to them was rugged and generally sterile; the soil, with
the exception of the creek bottoms, being shallow and sandy, and infested with
extensive fields of absinthe.
By the way we passed a fort, formerly occupied by a company of trappers under
the command of Frapp, near which himself and four other whites were killed in an
engagement with the Sioux some two years since. The Indians lost fifteen or
twenty of their warriors in killed and wounded, but succeeded in driving off eighty
head of horses as their booty.
Among the rocks of the hills I noticed frequent clusters of larb, richly laden with
its deep red berry,52 both tempting to the eye and pleasing to the taste.
On reaching the Platte we were ushered into a large and beautiful circular valley,
known as the New Park.
This valley is thirty-five miles in width by thirty in breadth, and is shut in upon all
sides by lofty mountains, whose summits tower far above the snow-line and sport
their white-caps through each returning year. It is well watered by numerous
streams that trace their course from the neighboring heights to commingle with
the Platte.
The river makes its exit from this place by a forced passage through narrow
defiles, between the Medicine Bow and New Park Mountains, forming a cañon
several miles in length, defined by precipitous walls, varying in height from fifty to
six hundred feet.
The New Park valley affords considerable timber of various kinds, and fertile soil,
well adapted to cultivation. The superfice is usually a thick mould, compounded
of clay, sand, and gravel, with decomposed vegetable matter; while the bottoms
disclose a rich alluvion of two or three feet depth.
The entire country was crowded with game, in countless numbers, both of
buffalo, elk, and deer. It seemed as though a general ingathering from mountain,
hill, and plain, had taken place to winter in this chosen spot.
It is said the great abundance of game first suggested the christening of the
locality as the New Park.
52
The larb-berry is of a deep red color, and somewhat larger than the common currant. It is of a sweet spicy taste, and
very pleasant. It grows upon a small ground vine of evergreen, with a leaf assimilating the winter-clover in shape, and is
found only in mountainous regions.
We remained in our encampment till the 5th of December, and improved the
interval in procuring a choice supply of meat, and feasting upon those delicious
viands which mountaineers so well know how to acquire and dispose of.
The day preceding our departure, a fall of snow covered the ground for several
inches, but the lapse of a few hours served to disclose the bare vegetation of the
valleys, and denuded spots upon the mountain sides.
Again en route, we continued up a large stream from the south and struck into a
broad trail, which led through large openings and forests of aspen across the
main mountain chain, to the waters of Grand river, into a beautiful valley known
as the Old Park, where we remained encamped the two days subsequent.
Our nearest route to Fort Lancaster would have been by Câche a la Poudre, or
Long's Peak; but, accumulating snows admonished us to abandon the Atlantic
side of the mountains for a more southern latitude.
The country in the vicinity of the Old Park is highly interesting. It embraces a
large tract of fertile territory, well watered and timbered, but more or less
undulating, and is hemmed in by high mountains, which are clothed with lateral
forests of pine, cedar, and aspen.
This valley ranges from east to west; and, heading at the base of Long's Peak,
finds its opposite extremity at the cañon by which Grand river merges through the
opposing barriers of mountain spurs.
The Old Park also, like the New, receives its appellation from the great
abundance of game for which it is celebrated.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
From Grand river to Bayou Salâde. Observations by the way. Description of the
Bayou. Voracity of magpies. Journey to Cherry creek. Country en route. Crystal
creek. Abundance of game. Antelope hunting. Remarkable sagacity of wolves.
Snow storms and amusement. Ravens. Move camp. — Comfortable winter
quarters. Animal food conducive to general health and longevity. A laughable
instance of sound sleeping. Astonishing wolfine rapacity. Beaver lodges and all
about beaver. Hunting excursion. Vasques' creek, its valleys, table lands,
mountains, and prairies. Camp. Left alone. Sensations, and care to avoid danger.
A nocturnal visitor. Thrilling adventure and narrow escape. A lofty specimen of
"gettin down stairs." Geological statistics.
WHILE camped at the Old Park, I improved the opportunity for ranging among
the adjacent mountains, whose stern recesses disclosed many smiling beautyspots. The weather continued pleasant, though somewhat colder then usual;
and, notwithstanding the snow in places lay quite deep, it had acquired great
solidity and compactness.
On the 10th of December we were again under way.
Crossing Grand river and continuing up a southern tributary, through a narrow
defile of mountains, to a large valley formed at the junction of three principal
branches, known us La Bonte's hole, and choosing the middle one, we
proceeded to its head, —thence, passing the dividing ridge by a well-beaten
buffalo trail, to the right of Long's Peak, on the 16th we reached Bayou Salâde,
another extensive valley at the head of the South Fork of the Platte. Here,
selecting a good camping place in a beautiful grove of aspen, we remained till
the 19th inst.
This last stage of our journey proved difficult and tedious. Although the passing
throngs of buffalo had afforded a well-marked trail, our horses frequently became
so mired in snow we were compelled to extricate them by main strength, —two or
three storms, in the mean time, having increased the quantity to an average
depth of twelve or fourteen inches.
The valleys and sunny hill-sides, however, were generally bare, and afforded
some agreeable respites to the toil of travelling.
The prevailing rock appeared to be granite, mica slate, and sandstone. The soil
of the valleys gave evidence of fertility, as did occasional spots upon the hillsides.
The streams were most of them skirted with cottonwood, aspen, and box elder,
while the hills and mountains presented frequent groves of pine and cedar.
Game, in all the different varieties common to the country, was seen in great
abundance the entire route.
Bayou Salâde is a valley some thirty-five miles long by fifteen wide, bounded
upon all sides by lofty mountain chains, with the exception of the south, where a
broad stretch of high, rugged hills and rolling prairies separates it from the
Arkansas.
The Platte, on emerging from this place, makes its final entrance into the grand
prairie by a narrow gorge in the mountain chain that extends to a distance of
several miles. Upon the southeast, the frowning summits of Pike's Peak tower to
a height of 12,500 feet above the level of the Gulf of Mexico, and upon the west
the continuous chain of the Green Mountains, clothed in eternal snow, point
skyward in solemn grandeur.
The numerous streams that find their sources in the neighborhood are well
timbered, and present many interesting bottoms of rich alluvial soil.
The valley is densely thronged with buffalo, while vast quantities of deer, elk, and
antelope unite to increase the number and variety of its game.
The weather at this time proved uncomfortably cold. Snow lying upon the ground
to the depth of several inches, we were necessitated to feed our horses upon
cottonwood bark during the interim.
Bayou Salâde bears the name of being subject to severe winters, but whether
correctly or not, I am unable to say. It is undoubtedly well adapted to stockraising, and, were it not for unseasonable frosts, might be turned to good account
for agricultural purposes.
The magpies were more troublesome and audacious in their depredations
hereabouts, than in any place we had yet visited. Two mules, whose backs had
become sore from continued service under the saddle, were severely annoyed
by these relentless persecutors, which, despite opposing effort, would pierce the
skinless flesh with their beaks and feast upon their agonizing victims.
To save the poor sufferers from being devoured alive, we were compelled to
envelope them with thick coverings of buffalo robes, and even then the rapacious
cormorants could scarcely be prevented from renewing their cruel repast.
Dec. 19th. Again resuming our journey, we continued in a southeast direction,
over a low ridge of hills, and found ourselves in a very rough country,
interspersed with frequent valleys which head several well timbered affluents of
the Arkansas;—thence, passing around the southern extremity of a lofty
mountain range, we struck Fontaine qui Bouit a few miles below the Soda spring.
Crossing this stream, we travelled north by west, following the mountain ridge at
its base for some forty miles, which brought us to the Platte; —thence, keeping
the river bottom, on the 28th we made camp at Cherry creek, a short distance
above its mouth.
The interesting and romantic country in the vicinity of Pike's Peak and Fontaine
qui Bouit has already been described in full, and needs but one passing remark
in attestation of the mildness of its climate, viz: the ground was free from snow,
and afforded occasional spots of green grass. Near this place we encountered a
small hunting party of Arapaho Indians, and obtained from them a choice supply
of fresh meat.
The interval from the Soda spring to the Platte, after passing the high, towering
and isolated walls of red granitic sandstone to the northward, betrays a mixed
character of wildness and beauty. The vast forests of stately pines, surmounting
the long rolling hills to the right, which are relieved as the traveller advances by
high table lands and quadrangular-shaped eminences that disclose their bare
sides, ever and anon graced with lateral cedars and dwarf oaks; and then the
heaven-scaling summits that, in continuous chain, oppose an impregnable wall
upon the left, unite to define a broad-spread of undulating prairie, some eight or
ten miles wide, well watered and possessed of a good soil.
The prevailing rock of this section appeared to be sandstone and limestone,
intermixed with conglomerates of various kinds.
I noticed two or three small ridges, several miles long, running parallel with the
mountains at regular distances, in an uninterrupted course, presenting continued
lines of thin strata planted vertically in their sharp crests, and reaching to an
elevation of thirty or forty feet, that, with broken fragments encumbering their
sides, looked like the half-fallen walls of some ancient fortification.
Among several affluents of the Platte from the right, we crossed Crystal creek, a
stream which derives its name from the existence of crystal in its sandy bed.
This creek is tolerably well timbered and possesses a rich bottom of variable
width, producing at the proper season a luxuriant growth of vegetation.
Our horses being quite enfeebled from the fatigue of travel, we gladly availed
ourselves of the presence of buffalo to prolong our stay at Cherry creek some ten
days, and meanwhile found no difficulty in procuring a continued feast of good
things from the dense herds that thronged the country upon every side.
The severe weather and frequent snows of the past two months, had driven
these animals from the open prairie into the creek bottoms and mountains,
whose vicinities were completely blackened with their countless thousands.
The antelope, too, seemed to have congregated from all parts, and covered the
country in one almost unbroken band. Their numbers exceeded any thing of the
kind I ever witnessed before or since. We amused ourselves at times in shooting
them merely for their skins, the latter being superior to those of deer or even
sheep in its nicety of texture and silky softness.
One day, as was my custom, I left camp for the above purpose, and had
proceeded but a short distance, when, happening upon a large band of antelope,
a discharge from my piece brought down one of its number.
Before reaching it, however, my supposed victim had rejoined his companions,
and the whole throng were lost to view almost with the speed of thought.
The profuseness of blood that marked its trail through the snow, induced me to
follow it in expectation of soon obtaining the object of my pursuit; but in vain.
At length, after travelling four or five miles, I began to despair of success, and,
feeling weary, sat down upon the point of a small hill that commanded a view of
the surrounding prairie. While here an unusual stir among the wolves attracted
my attention, and I amused myself by watching their movements.
Upon a neighboring eminence some fifty or a hundred of these insatiate
marauders were congregated, as if for consultation. Adjoining this, two parallel
lines of low hills led out from the river bottom into the prairie, for five or six miles,
defining a narrow valley, at the extremity of which a large band of antelope were
quietly grazing.
The chief topic of the wolfine conference seemed to have particular reference to
this circumstance; for, in a very short time, the council dispersed, and its
members betook to the hills skirting the valley before described, and, stationing
themselves upon both lines at regular intervals, two of them commenced the
attack by leisurely approaching their destined prey from opposite directions, in
such a manner as to drive the whole band between the defile of hungry
expectants. This done, the chase began without further preliminary.
Each wolf performed his part by pursuing the terrified antelope till relieved by his
next companion, and he by the succeeding one; and so on, alternately; taking
care to reverse their course at either extremity of the defile — again and again to
run the death-race, until, exhausted by the incessant effort and crazed with
terror, the agile animals, that were wont to bid defiance to the swiftest steed, and
rival the storm-wind in fleetness, fell easy victims to the sagacity of their enemies.
I watched the operation until several of them yielded their lifeless carcasses to
appease the appetite of their rapacious pursuers, when I returned to camp with
far more exalted ideas of the instinctive intelligence of wolves (savoring so
strongly of reason and calculation) than I had previously entertained.
Two or three severe snow-storms occurred shortly after our arrival; but having
constructed commodious shantees in regular mountain style, with large fires in
front, we were both dry and comfortable.
These occasions, too, afforded their own amusement. Snugly stowed away in
bed, with our rifles at hand, whenever a straggling wolf ventured within gun-shot,
in fond hopes of a deserted camp, he was almost sure to fall a victim to his own
temerity.
Bands of five or ten would frequently approach almost to the camp-fire, totally
unsuspicious of danger till the sharp crack of a rifle told the fall of some one of
their number.
A swarm of ravens, allured by the carcasses of these animals, peopled the grove
near by. Having devoured the timely feast, still the poor birds remained, making
the day dismal with their tireless croakings, as if in importunate supplication for a
further boon.
Three of them soon became quite domesticated, and would approach fearlessly
to the very verge of the camp-fire in quest of the offals of our culinary
department.
One, however, by far exceeded his two companions in boldness, and would
venture within a few feet of us at any time. So audacious was his conduct, and so
insatiate his appetite, his comrades took occasion to bestow upon him frequent
chastisements; but all to no purpose. At length, abandoning all hope of effecting
the desired reformation, they set upon the offending bird, nor relinquished their
purpose till the life of the luckless gormandizer had expiated the crime of his
unravenlike conduct, and his executioners were left to enjoy their daily repasts
without the annoyance of his presence.
Jan. 16th, 1843. Having received an accession of three men to our number, from
Fort Lancaster, we removed some six or eight miles further down the Platte, and
camped in a large grove of cottonwood upon the right bank.
At this place it was our daily practice to fell two or three small trees for our
horses, as we now considered ourselves fully established in winter quarters.
Game was plenty, and wood abundant; nothing, therefore, remained for us to do
but to recruit our horses, eat of the best the prairie afforded, drink of the crystal
waters that rolled by our side, and enjoy life in true mountain style; nor did we
neglect the opportunity of so doing. In fact, had the world been searched over, it
would have been hard to find a jollier set of fellows than we.
The effort of a few hours was sufficient to procure a month's supply of the
choicest delicacies, nor is it marvelous that, to use a cant phrase of the country,
we soon became "fat, ragged, and saucy."
Perhaps nothing is more conducive to good health than animal food. In proof of
this I need only to refer to the uniform good health of those subsisting entirely
upon it.
Sickness of any kind is rarely known to the various Indian tribes confined
exclusively to its use. These people almost invariably live to an extraordinary
age, unless cut off by the ravages of war or some unforeseen event.
Consumption, dyspepsy, colds, and fevers, are alike strangers to them.
The same observation holds good in regard to the whites who reside in this
country and subsist in a similar manner.
I have known confirmed cases both of consumption and dyspepsy cured by
visiting these regions and submitting exclusively to this mode of living.
For my own part, I felt not the least indisposed during the entire period of my
stay, nor did I even hear of an instance of death from natural causes in the mean
time, and but rarely of a case of sickness, however slight. The same also has
been repeatedly remarked in my hearing by persons who have resided here for
ten or twelve years, and whose united experience corroborates my own.
A further fact, relative to the teeth, is worthy of note in connection with this
subject. These never suffer by decay or aches, when employed only in the
mastication of flesh; or, at least, I have never seen or heard of an instance of the
kind.
I am, therefore, led to conclude from the foregoing facts, that animal food is in
every respect the most wholesome and innocent diet which can be adopted.
A person in the enjoyment of good health and a quiet mind, generally sleeps
sound. In proof that such was the case —with our party, I need only advert to a
circumstance which here occurred.
Having awoke one moonshiny night, and observing an unusual number of wolves
in the vicinity of camp, I seized my rifle and shot one of them; soon after I
improved the opportunity to lay another prostrate, and in a few minutes
subsequent a third tell in like manner; all at three several shots.
A continuation of the sport seemed likely to detract too much from the hours of
sleep, and so, placing the victims in front of the camp-fire, I addressed myself to
repose.
A light snow fell in the interval, and sunrise found us all in bed, patiently waiting
to see who would have the courage to rise first. At length, one man jumped up
and turned to renew the fire. On noticing the wolves before it he wheeled for his
rifle, in his eagerness to secure which he fell sprawling at full length.
"Hello!" says one; "what's the matter, my boy. Is that are a sample of the ups and
downs of life?"
"Matter?" exclaimed our hero, gathering himself up in double-quick time, and
rushing for his gun; "matter enough! The cursed wolves have grown so bold and
saucy, that they come to the fire to warm themselves! Only look! A dozen or
more of 'em are there now, in broad day-light! Get up, quick! and let's kill 'em!"
Aroused by this extraordinary announcement, the whole posse were instantly on
their feet to repel the audacious invaders; when, lo! the cause of alarm proved
three dead carcasses.
But, where did they come from? When were they killed? Who placed them there?
These were questions none were able to solve, and in regard to which all were
profoundly ignorant. Finally, the circumstance occasioned quite an animated
discussion, which was soon merged into angry dispute; and, after amusing
myself awhile at their expense, I unravelled the mystery, to the surprise of all.
"Can it be possible!" was the general exclamation, — "can it be possible that we
should have slept so sound as not to hear the report of a rifle fired three times in
succession, and under our very ears, at that!"
"This reminds me," said one, "of dreaming that somebody fired during the night.
But it seemed so much like other dreams I had forgotten it till now."
"Well," retorted a second, "we are a pretty set of customers to live in a dangerous
country! Why, a single Indian might have come into camp and killed the whole of
us, one after another, with all the ease imaginable!"
The above incident induced the narration of a circumstance, happening to an
individual of my acquaintance two or three weeks previous.
He had been into the mountains after deer, and was on his return to the Fort for a
fresh supply of ammunition, and, having occasion to camp out at night, like a
genuine mountaineer, he took his saddle for a pillow. This, being covered with
raw hide, excited the cupidity of a marauding wolf.
The hungry beast felt ill-disposed to let slip an opportunity thus favorable for
appeasing his appetite with a dry morsel, and so, gently drawing it from beneath
the head of the unconscious sleeper, he bore off his prize to devour it at his
leisure.
In the morning our hero awoke minus saddle, and nothing save a number of wolftracks at his bead furnished clue to the mystery of its disappearance; and, after
spending several hours in fruitless search, neither hide or hair of it could be
found.
In the river bank near camp were two lodges of beaver, whose sagacious
occupants gave frequent indications of their industrious habits by the magnitude
of their performances. Several trees, ten or twelve inches in diameter, had been
freshly felled by them to furnish their families with food.
In such operations they exhibit an instinctive intelligence well-nigh approaching to
reason. They uniformly select trees that stand above their lodges, in order to
avail themselves of the current in conveying their timber to the destined place of
deposit.
When a tree is thus chosen, the cautious little animal first carefully notices the
point towards which its top inclines, and then sets himself to work at the opposite
side. As his task approaches its completion, he frequently retires a short distance
to observe the direction in which the tree is likely to fall, by watching its motions,
and renews his labors with great caution. Upon the first indication of the finale,
like an experienced woodsman, he instantly withdraws beyond the reach of
danger, and leaves the tottering forest-monarch to announce his fallen greatness
in the awful crash by which he is bespread upon the ground.
The process of chopping is then performed by severing the trunk into blocks,
some three feet in length, suitable for transportation, which are severally taken to
the " slide" and rolled into the stream, by the cunning animal — using his tail as a
substitute for hands. As they fall one after another, he plunges in and guides
them to their destination, where they are safely moored for future use.
The beaver possesses great strength in his tail, which is twelve or fifteen inches
long, four broad, and a half inch thick. This part of the animal is highly esteemed
by trappers, and assimilates a fish in taste, though it is far superior to any of the
finny tribe.
His teeth are very sharp, (incisors,) two inches or more in length, perfectly round
and of a uniform size, with the exception of the cutting extremities, which are
gouge-like, about the eighth of an inch in diameter, and nearly in the shape of a
semicircle.
Beaver lodges are commonly constructed in holes carefully excavated in the
banks of streams, in such a manner that the entrances are entirely covered by
water. It is very rarely they build in any other manner, notwithstanding most
writers upon this subject assert the contrary.
The female usually produces two, and sometimes three, at a birth, but seldom
rears more than one; — first destroying the least likely, she bestows much
attention upon her favorite offspring, and nurses it with great tenderness.
The character and habits of this curious animal, in other respects, have probably
met the reader's eye through other sources, so that a more extended notice
under this head would be unnecessary.
Having procured a fresh supply of ammunition from Fort Lancaster, some two
weeks succeeding our arrival at this place I visited the mountains on a hunting
excursion, in company with a single voyageur.
Our course lead up Vasque's creek for fifteen or twenty miles, to a ridge of high
table land, through which we passed, by a circuitous route, and were ushered
into a broad and beautiful valley, bounded upon the east by the ridge before
named, and on the west by a lofty mountain chain.
Vasque's creek is well timbered, and has a rich bottom, averaging one mile in
breadth, and is skirted by a slightly undulating prairie, quite productive in various
kinds of grasses.
This creek is from eight to ten yards wide, and affords a body of water more than
a foot in depth. It heads in the main chain of the mountains, where it claims a
valley of considerable extent, enclosed upon all sides by lofty ridges that
preclude the possibility of approach, except a two points marking an Indian pass
to the waters of Grand river.
From thence it winds its way between long defiles of mountains, that close in
abruptly upon its very water's edge, till it finally intersects the valley first spoken
of, and forces itself through the high ridge of table land into the open prairie.
Finding an abundance of deer in the vicinity, we struck camp and made it our
hunting-ground for the time being. Our efforts were very successful, and seldom
a favorable day passed without giving us the skins and choice parts of two or
more deer.
Nothing occurred to mar our enjoyment for the first two or three weeks, at which
time my comrade, having unfortunately broken his gun-lock, was compelled to
return to the Fort for repairs. I resolved, however, to remain solo, despite his
entreaties to the contrary.
This was the first trial I ever made of hermit-life, and I must confess, that after the
first sensations of repulsive loneliness had been overcome, I felt much attached
to it, as subsequent pages will prove.
Yet there was something so forbidding in the idea of my real situation, I seldom
reverted to it without experiencing feelings of gloomy apprehension. Nor need it
be wondered at, removed as I was far away from friendly aid, and in a dangerous
country, with a thousand terrific scenes awaiting me at every step.
Still, in a little time I learned to forget all this, and roamed as freely by day, and
slept as soundly by night, as though surrounded by friends and guarded by hosts
of armed men.
But the reader must not infer from these remarks that I had settled down in a
state of careless security, for I took especial care at all times to avoid surprise, by
close attention to certain indications which my own observation had taught me to
regard as the general precursors of danger from a savage foe, in order, by a
timely movement, to escape a contact so fraught with peril.
For several nights I had a constant visitor in the shape of a prairie-fox, a creature
about twice the size of a large red squirrel. He came to appease his hunger from
the small scraps of esculents that lay scattered about camp, — devouring them
while seated composedly by the fire.
My stock of provisions was usually secured, at night, by substituting it for a
pillow; but Mr. Reynard soon became so emboldened that he repeatedly took
occasion to help himself, even at the risk of sundry cuffs it was my wont to
bestow upon him whenever his eagerness led him to deal too roughly with my
hair.
Two incidents of perilous adventure occurred during this interval, which are
perhaps not unworthy of narration.
One day, having proceeded farther from camp than was my custom without
finding game, towards night I came to the broad escarp of a mountain, covered
with scattering pines, and ascended to its summit in hopes of encountering deer
or sheep, as the place gave indications of both. Here I stood at the very verge of
a vast precipice, some four or five hundred feet high, overlooking a narrow valley,
counter-scarped by a rough mountain chain, where a large band of elk were
quietly grazing. The sight appeared so tempting I was unwilling to forego the
opportunity of giving them a passing shot.
But how to get at them was the question. To go around the hill would require a
detour of some six miles, and consume too much time, as the day was fast
closing. Unless some means could be found enabling me to descend the wall, it
was evident I must abandon my design.
Accordingly, after a short search, having found a ravine-like pass, worn by the
rains and falling rock, that apparently led to the valley below, I attempted a
descent.
The breakage was steep and narrow, and the loose fragments and detritus from
the crags above, rendered a foot-hold quite insecure. Yet I progressed without
much difficulty, and began to congratulate myself on an anticipated speedy exit
from seeming danger, when, coming suddenly to an abrupt precipice, of sixty or
seventy feet perpendicular descent, and paved far around its base with sharp
rocks presenting their keen edges like so many hatchets set on end, I was
thrown all aback at the appalling spectacle.
In vain I tried to retrace my steps. The sides refused to sustain my weight, and
the yielding surface, to which I clung with a death-like tenacity, threatened every
moment to plunge me headlong from the frightful steep, to be dashed in pieces
among the rocks below.
That moment was an awful one! Retreat was impossible, — advance was certain
death, — the time for reflection was fast waning, for every instant brought me
nearer and still nearer to the fatal verge!
It was then I bestowed a fleeting thought upon loved and absent friends, — one
fleeting thought upon a far distant home and all the cherished endearments of
childhood, — and, commending my soul to the Great Author of its existence in a
brief prayer, I turned to gaze calmly upon the yawning jaws of fate that awaited
my speedy destruction.
But here a ray of hope burst from the thick cloud which till now seemed just ready
to merge the sun of existence into the density of its own darkness.
A tall pine grew at the base of the precipice, some fifty yards distant, two narrow
shelves of protruding rock, six or seven feet apart, led towards the tree, affording
a sufficient hold for hands and feet to a person standing at full length.
My decision was instantly formed. Carefully dropping my rifle from the steep, by
dint of great exertion I gained the shelves, that seemed as if made expressly for
an occasion like the present; — then, by moving laterally, inch by inch, along the
dizzy side, in a short time I had progressed to the tree, whose topmost branch lay
just within my reach. Grasping this firmly in one hand, and disengaging the other
to be used as the emergency might require, I threw myself backward among the
surrounding boughs, and, lodging in safety, was left to descend at leisure the
remaining distance.
Once more upon a sure footing, the occurrences of the day had proved a
sufficient gorge to present ambition; so, seizing my rifle, (which had luckily fallen
uninjured.) I bade farewell to the unconscious elk and returned to camp. There,
with early night I found myself transported to the land of dreams in the drowsy
car of sleep.
But, instead of wild beasts and prowling savages thirsting for blood, such as the
danger of my lonely situation would naturally inspire, my mind was filled with
visions of deep chasms, frightful precipices, and yawning steeps, that seemed to
meet me at every turn, affording no possible way of escape; and thrice glad was I
when wakeful morning chased these horrid phantoms far away, and revealed to
me the welcome reality of conscious safety.
Soon after the adventure above related, another transpired of a somewhat similar
nature.
The rugged mountain chain forming the western boundary of the valley, afforded
numerous black-tailed deer and sheep. The skills of these animals being much
larger than those of the common deer and antelope, I was induced to scour the
vicinity, occasionally, in pursuit of them.
One day, having gone to a considerable distance on this errand, I was passing
along upon the crest of a sharp peak, of great height and steep sides.
The ridge ranged from northwest to southeast, leaving upon its right side a vast
spread of smooth snow, encrusting it from summit to base, and upon its left, a
lateral vallon, entirely bare and graced with frequent spots of grass, as yet green
and flourishing.
One of these niches was occupied by a band of wild sheep, which were so
situated they could not be successfully approached, unless from the opposite
side of the peak. Attempting this, I was proceeding slowly along, by means of
steps implanted in the thick crust with the breech of my rifle, and had almost
attained the point designed, when, losing foot-hold, I fell prostrate, and, after
gliding the distance of a full mile, almost with the speed of thought, found myself
immersed in a huge bank of loose snow, at the foot of the mountain.
It is all nonsense to talk of steam-boats and rail-road cars, in comparison with the
velocity of such a lofty specimen of "gettin down stairs!" Few mortals, I may
venture to say, ever got along in the world half so fast as did myself in this grand
avalanche from the mountain-top.
The country contiguous to this valley is generally possessed of a very good soil,
both in the prairies, table lands, and mountains. Bordering upon the
watercourses, the surface discloses a deep mould of sand and gravel,
exceedingly fertile, reposed upon a substratum of granite and micaceous
sandstone; the prairies presented a mixed superfice of sand, clay, and gravel,
rather thin and light, and strongly impregnated with various salts, and the table
lands, a compound of stiff clay, stone, and gravel, partially enriched by the
fertilizing properties of vegetable and animal matter and the genial auxiliaries of
disintegrated rock, with now and then a diminutive spot destitute of grass or herb
and whitened by a thin coating of saline efflorescence.
The prevailing rock is sandstone, granite, gneiss, limestone, and large boulders
of the primitive formation.
The only indication of minerals, so far as my observation extended, was that of
iron, though doubtless due research would bring to light a rich supply of other
valuable ores.
CHAPTER XXIX.
Return to the Fort. Texan recruiting officer. New plans. Volunteer. The Chance
Shot; or Special Providence. Texan camp. Country contiguous to the Arkansas,
from Fontaine qui Bouit to the Rio de las Animas. Things at rendezvous. A
glance at the company. Disposal of force. March up the de las Animas. The
country; Timpa valley, and its adjoining hills, to the de las Animas. The latter
stream; its cañon, valley and enchanting scenery. Tedious egress. Unparalleled
suffering from hunger, toil, and cold. Wolf flesh and buffalo hide. Painful
consequences of eating cacti. A feast of mule meat after seven days' starvation.
Camp at the Taos trail. The adjacent country. Strict guard. A chase. The meet
reward for treason.
ON the 16th of Feb., my stock of ammunition having failed, I proceeded to Fort
Lancaster for a fresh supply, where I encountered a Texan recruiting officer,
sporting a Colonel's commission, that bore the signature of " Sam Houston,"
President of the Republic.
The object of this personage was to raise a company of volunteer riflemen, to act
in conjunction with a large force said to be then on its way for the invasion of
Santa Fe. The main design of the expedition was to annoy the Mexican frontier,
intercept their trade, and force them, if possible, to some terms by which a peace
might be secured between the two countries.
The proposed rifle-company was to be vested with discretionary powers, and
perform the duties of a scouting party to the main army. Each of its members was
to be regularly enlisted for the term of nine months, — armed with a good rifle
and pistols, and mounted upon a stout, serviceable horse.
Great inducements, by way of promises, were also held out, to secure a prompt
and ready enlistment; and, in fact, the whole affair was represented in a light so
favorable, few possessed of the necessary means for equipping themselves
refused to enter their names upon the muster-roll, and rally beneath the banner
of the Lone Star.
One thing, however, served to awaken in the bosom of each the genuine martial
spirit, more than all the eloquence of the fluent Colonel;— this was the
unfurlment of the identical flag, bullet-pierced and tattered, that had stood as the
genius of victory at the sanguinary battle of Corpus Christi, in the early days of
the Texan revolution.
Who could refuse to respond favorably to a call backed by arguments so potent?
— not I.
Soon after Colonel Warfield, for such was the officer's name, set out on his return
to the scene of intended operations, accompanied by some twelve or fifteen men,
having named for his rendezvous a point within the Mexican territory, near the
confluence of the Rio de las Animas and the waters of the Arkansas.
Circumstances were such at the time it was inconvenient for me to leave, and
eight or ten days intervened before my departure to join the expedition.
Meanwhile, it stormed almost incessantly, and the prairies presented naught
save one vast expanse of gloomy desolation covered with deep and trackless
snow.
The distance to be travelled was not far from two hundred miles, through a
country inhabited only by wild beasts and strolling savages. Yet, nothing daunted
by the cheerless aspect of affairs, having completed my arrangements, I
improved the first fair day to launch forth upon the drear waste.
Relying upon the great abundance of game usually encountered en route, I took
but a small supply of provisions, as, fully equipped, with rifle, pistols, butcherknife, and other requisites, I mounted my horse, and, solitary and alone,
commenced the long journey before me.
Hurrying on as fast as the nature of the case would admit, in the afternoon of the
second day, an object, several miles in advance, arrested my attention.
Suspicious of danger, but anxious to know its character and extent, I cautiously
approached and was gratified to find it, instead of the lurking savage my
imagination had depicted, a white man, hastening with eagerness to greet me.
He was on foot, and looked way-worn and weary to a deplorable extent. His story
was soon told. He was the bearer of dispatches from the Arkansas to Colonel
Warfield, — and being compelled to abandon his mule by the way, on account of
the depth of snow, had proceeded thus far on foot, and, for the last three days
had been without eating, in the tedious performance of the duty committed to his
trust.
Hearing this, I invited him to a creek near by, where I immediately struck camp,
and laid before him my small stock of eatables, with the assurance it was at his
disposal. The speedy disappearance of the scanty supply, attested the keenness
of his appetite, and left us both in a state of utter want.
On learning that Colonel W. had left for the Arkansas several days since, and
now most probably had reached his destination, my new acquaintance concluded
to retrace his steps and bear me company.
The next morning we arose breakfastless and resumed our journey, trusting to a
kind Providence and our rifles to meet the demands of nature. But the snow
became deeper the farther we advanced, and prospect more and more gloomy at
every step.
Not a living creature presented itself to view, nor even the least vestige of any
thing possessing the breath of life. Before and around lay a vast spread of winterbleached desolation, bounded upon our right by the distant mountains, whose
towering summits pierced the blue heavens and laughed at the clouds and
storms below, while in front, and rear, and on our left, the curving horizon alone
gave limit to vision.
Still hope bade us advance, although difficulties continued to multiply in threefold
ratio. The second and third day our progress did not exceed twelve miles, and
yet we had gone so far retreat or advance seemed alike hopeless.
Starvation stared us in the face, and continued travel through snow ofttimes waist
deep, reduced our strength and wasted our spirits.
On the fourth day, however, the weather having become more favorable, we
were enabled to make further headway than the preceding one. We also saw a
few ravens, but they, as if conscious of our desperate condition, cautiously
avoided coming within gun-shot;— a big rabbit likewise showed itself in the
distance, but; being at the top of its speed, disappeared almost as soon as
seen;— thus we were again doomed to go supperless to bed and feast upon the
well-furnished tables of dreams, which, though they please the fancy during their
continuance, serve only to increase the appetite and stimulate its cravings.
On the morning, of the fifth day, as we arose to continue our journey, determined
to hold out as long as possible, the haggard looks of my comrade excited my
compassion, and wishing to cheer him, I observed,
"Well, what would you think were I to predict for us a good supper tonight?"
" Really," said he, "I don't know. But there's a poor show for its fulfillment, any
how."
"We shall have one, I know it."
"God send we may. But, pray, where is it to come from.
"I am quite confident we shall find game. If so, as my rifle bears the name of Old
Straightener, and it has never been known to fail in a case of emergency, I know
she will maintain her ancient honor."
"What if we don't find game? Then how."
"Why, here's my horse. It will be of no service to me if I am to die from starvation.
In case we find nothing, its carcase shall save our lives."
“Horse meat or any thing else wouldn't go bad, just at this time."
Thus resolved, we continued our way, plodding along in gloomy silence, brooding
over the sad realities of our deplorable situation, —ever and anon, scanning the
vacant expanse, in the fast-waning hope of looked-for relief, — but as yet looked
for in vain.
The day was fast verging to a close, and I was summoning a sufficiency of
fortitude to submit to the sacrifice of my favorite beast, and ruminating upon the
many difficulties and inconveniences that must result from such a step, volving
and revolving all the pros and cons the case admitted of, when I was roused from
my reverie by the shrill voice of my comrade, who joyfully exclaimed,
"Look!—look! A buffalo!"—at the same time pointing in the direction it appeared.
I looked, and sure enough a venerable old bull presented himself a few hundred
yards to the right.
"Aye, aye, my hearty! There's a chance for Old Straightener!" said I, as, lowering
my rifle, I started towards the intended victim.
" Don't forget," cried my comrade, "that all my hopes of salvation are centred in
your rifle-ball." The animal was feeding quietly, and I was enabled to approach
within some sixty yards of him, when levelling, I pulled trigger, —but the cap,
being damp, burst without a discharge. The noise caught the quick ear of the
buffalo, and caused him to look round;— however, seeing nothing to excite his
alarm, he soon resumed an employment more agreeable to his taste than
needless vigilance.
Having put fresh powder into the tube, and supplied it with another cap I was
again raising to take aim, and had brought my piece nearly half shoulderward,
when it unceremoniously discharged itself, burying its ball in the lights of the
buffalo —the very spot I should have selected had it been optional with myself.
The old fellow staggered a few steps and fell dead!
My companion coming up, we soon completed the process of butchering, and,
after furnishing ourselves with an ample supply of choice beef, proceeded to a
neighboring creek, where, finding a few sticks of drift-wood, a fire was quickly
kindled, and we ended our fast of five successive days and nights with feasting
and glad hearts.
I have always regarded this event as a special Providence, and ever revert to it
with no ordinary feelings of gratitude. Had the ball, thus accidentally discharged,
missed the animal, or had it only wounded him, in all human probability,
becoming alarmed at the presence of danger, and prompted by the instinct
common to the species, he would soon have been beyond the reach of pursuit,
leaving me to the dernier resort of slaughtering my horse or perishing among the
snows and chill blasts of the prairie.
Enfeebled as we were from continued toil and suffering, we could have scarcely
held out a day longer, and even the partial relief afforded by a poor supply of
horse flesh, left, as we would have been, to travel on foot and carry our beds,
guns, and provisions, must have served only to prolong our miseries a brief
space, finally to meet the inevitable fate that threatened us! as this solitary
buffalo was the only living creature that met our view during the entire journey.
I have never consented to dispose of the rough-looking piece long previously
christened "Old Straightener," and, when asked the reason, have uniformly
replied, "It is the only gun I ever saw or heard of that has killed game of its own
accord!
The second day succeeding this occurrence, my companion left me to obtain his
mule, and I completed the remainder of my journey alone, —arriving the
appointed rendezvous late in the afternoon of the 20th of March.
The country travelled over, from the Platte to the Arkansas, near the mouth of
Fontaine qui Bouit, has been fully described in former pages.
My route, from the mouth of this stream, followed the Arkansas for some forty
miles. The landscape, back from the river-bottoms, was quite undulating,
presenting upon the left a superfice of gravel, clay, and sand, mixed with
vegetable matter; and, upon the right, a light, sandy soil, somewhat sterile and
unproductive.
Many rich spots of a deep bluish loam meet the eye of the traveller, interspersed
with spreads of naked sand, or clay whitened by exuding salts, or clothed in
dwarfish grass; among which numerous clusters of absinthe, frequently five or six
feet high, are seen in almost every direction.
The country, as a general thing, is evidently ill-adapted to other than grazing
purposes.
Two broad beds of sand-creeks are passed upon the left, a few miles below
Fontaine qui Bouit, one of which is Black Squirrel creek, and the other is known
as the Wolf's Den. Upon the right, the Rio San Carlos. Cornua Virda, Apache,
and Huaquetorie, after tracing their serpentine courses from the Taos Mountains,
commingle with the Arkansas.
Some six miles below the mouth of Fontaine qui Bouit are the ruins of an old fort,
occupied several years since by one Capt. Grant as a trading post.
The last of my course, being upon the side of the river, was much impeded by
mud; and, although the surface was generally bare, travelling was even more
tedious than it had been at any time hitherto.
After a series of suffering and deprivation so continued and severe, right gladly
did I hail the Lone Star banner upon the opposite shore, as their point of present
termination.
Fording the Arkansas about a mile above the Texan encampment, I found it
nearly swimming deep, with a swift and muddy current over a bed of quicksand
and gravel.
My appearance created no little surprise among all present, as they had several
days since numbered me with those who had volunteered with great readiness,
so far as promises were concerned; but, when PERFORMANCES were required,
"came up missing."
I must confess, however, to great disappointment in the diminutive force that
here met my view, which consisted of only twenty-four men, including officers —
all told. But several accessions were expected, sufficient to swell the number to
fifty-five or sixty. A party of eighty volunteers from the States were to meet us at
the "Crossing " of the Arkansas, on the Santa Fe trail, together with a
detachment of two hundred and fifty from Texas; and, with these reinforcements,
it was confidently asserted we would be equal to the combined force of all New
Mexico.
I immediately reported myself to the commanding officer, and was kindly
welcomed, with the remark,
"Well, sir, you are just in time. Another day and you would have been too late.
We move camp to-morrow morning."
(A pity it was I had not been too late!)
Withdrawing from the conference, the lapse of a few moments gave me an
opportunity to look around and see among whom I had fallen.
It would have been hard to scare up a more motley group of humanity in any
place this side of Mexico. Each individual presented a uniform as varied as the
imagination could depict, though tallying well with the general appearance of the
whole company—it was a uniform of rags!
Still from beneath the dusky visages, half obscured by beards to which the kindly
operations of their razors had been for weeks and even months a stranger, I
detected the frank expression indicating the generous-hearted mountaineer, and
began to feel at home, notwithstanding the fast-rising feelings of regret that
fortune had thrown me in their way.
Early in the morning of the following day we were drawn up in line and divided
into two detachments, —one consisting of ten, and the other of fourteen men.
The first of these, under the command of Colonel Warfield, were to proceed to
the Crossing of the Arkansas, and await the arrival of the main army, or
otherwise act as circumstances suggested, while the second, headed by a
lieutenant, marched up the Rio de las Animas to the Taos trail, to perform the
duties of a corps of observation until further orders.
It was my lot to accompany the latter, and we promptly commenced movement.
After riding a few miles we struck the Timpa, a small affluent of the Arkansas, up
which we travelled till the next day about noon, when, coming to an Indian trail
leading south-southwest to the de las Animas, we followed it and reached the
latter stream on the 27th of March; continuing up the de las Animas, three days
subsequently we arrived at our destination.
The country passed over at the commencement of our journey, for fifteen or
twenty miles, was a slightly undulating prairie, of a sandy soil, with few
indications of productiveness.
The Timpa is entirely destitute of timber, and its valley, though plentiful in
absinthe, is scarcely superior to the surrounding prairie. Several miles previous
to leaving it, our course lay between two ridges of forbidding and sterile hills,
nearly destitute of vegetation, and affording only now and then a few scraggy
cedars and shrubs. Indeed, but very little good land is found in this vicinity.
On diverging from the Timpa the trail crossed a high, arid prairie, which was
furrowed by deep ravines, and ridged by long rolling hills, that were occasionally
surmounted by cedars and pinions, until it struck the de las Animas.
The watercourses through this section are rare, and sparsely timbered, being for
the most part shut in by high banks of earth or lofty walls of precipitous rock,
varying in altitude, and presenting vast chasms, passable only at certain points.
Their valleys are narrow, but possess a fertile soil which is to some extent
susceptible of cultivation, while many parts of the adjacent prairies might answer
for grazing purposes.
The prevailing rock, so far as my observation extended, was coarse-grained
granite and limestone. I noticed at places along the creek valleys occasional
spots of calcareous earth; and, in fact, their soils generally indicated the
presence of calcium in their compound, to no inconsiderable extent.
The valley of the Rio de las Animas was by far the most interesting and romantic
section of country we had as yet entered upon in the Mexican, or, as it is now
claimed, Texan territory. This stream, in English, bears the name of Purgatory
creek; in French, it is known as the Piquer l'eau, or Water of Suffering; in Indian,
it is called the Wild River, and in Spanish, it is christened by the term above
used, which means the River of Souls.
It rises in the Taos Mountains by two separate heads, a little south of the Spanish
Peaks, and emerges from its rugged birth-place into the plains, where the two
branches trace their way for some fifty miles and then unite to form one stream.
These forks are passably well timbered, and are skirted at intervals with rich
bottoms; but the circumjacent country is dry rolling, and generally barren.
A short distance below their confluence the river cuts its way through an expanse
of high, barren table lands, for sixty or sixty-five miles, leaving abrupt walls of
rock and earth on both sides, piled to a varied height of from fifty to three or four
hundred feet, surmounted by groves of cedar and pinion, interspersed with broad
pavements of naked rock, nude wastes of stiff sun-baked clay, and occasional
clusters of coarse grass.
These walls are often perpendicular, though they generally accline somewhat,
and are ornamented with scattering shrubs and cedars, which in vain seek to
hide the forbidding deformity of nature.
They frequently intrude to the very water's edge, and pile at their feet and in the
foaming current huge masses of rock, strown about in all the wild disorder of
savage scenery; then, expanding at brief intervals, they picture many sweet,
enchanting spots, that smile and bloom in unfading loveliness, where angels
might recline, and, listening to the chime of their own voices, echoed from rock to
rock and reverberated with unheard-of melody, might fancy themselves in
heaven; then again closing, to open in like manner at some favored point, till they
finally give place to a broad and beautiful valley, from one to three miles in width,
of unsurpassed fertility, and abounding at the proper season in every variety of
fruit and flower known to the country, which, mingling amid the scattering
cottonwoods, (free from under-brush and mimicking in their arrangement the
regularity of art,) seem to portray the fabled fields of Elysian bliss.
This valley extends from the mouth of the cañon to the junction of the de las
Animas with the Arkansas — a distance of twenty-five or thirty miles; for ten or
fifteen of which it is skirted with receding hills, that maintain their stern sublimity
till they at length become swallowed up in the far-spreading prairie.
This is a favorite resort for deer, antelope, and turkey, which are found in great
numbers, gambolling amid its varied beauties, or winding along its narrow defiles
and forbidden recesses.
We entered the cañon through a narrow and steep declivity, formed by a small
stream, which was shut in by continuous cliffs, that increased in height as they
approached their lofty counterparts immuring the angry river.
After winding a day and a half among the crags and confused masses, which
constantly intervened to impede our way, in vain searching for an egress, we
found it impossible to proceed further, and were forced to climb the almost
vertical bank, at an ascent of five or six hundred feet, —frequently lifting our
horses over the rocks by means of ropes attached to their bodies and drawn from
the impending summit;— this tedious process occupied nearly a day in its
completion, and left us upon the lateral table land exhausted in strength and
worn down with fatigue.
We were eleven days en route, during which time we suffered greatly from the
severity of the weather, hunger, toil, and watching.
The air was bleak, the winds cold and piercing, and the sky almost continually
over-cast with clouds, while two or three snow storms contributed their mite to
swell the catalogue of comfortless hours.
Our horses, too, had become so exhausted from hard fare and previous service,
we were necessitated to travel on foot for most of the distance. But the grand
climax of miseries was experienced through lack of food.
A scanty supply of buffalo meat, taken with us at the outset, was consumed at
the next meal, and we were left without one morsel to appease the gnawings of
appetite for the two days and three nights succeeding. A straggling wolf that
chance threw in our way, at the expiration of this time, most luckily furnished us
with a breakfast, though nothing further entered our mouths till the morning of the
third day from this, when, coming to the site of a recent Indian encampment, we
succeeded in gathering a few pieces of dry buffalo hide, that lay scattered about
—so hard and tough the wolves had tried in vain to gnaw them; these, after being
boiled some twelve or fourteen hours, afforded us a paltry substitute for
something better, but of so glutinous a nature it almost cemented the teeth
employed in its mastication.
The two days following we were again doomed to go hungry and began to talk
seriously of the imminent danger of starving to death.
This interval had brought us into the cañon of de las Aminas, where, having
struck camp, several of the men sought a temporary respite from the torments of
hunger by eating roasted cacti;—the article at first tasted well, and from the
recommendation of the essayists, several were induced to partake of it quite
heartily.
But the lapse of a brief hour or two brought with it the "tug of war," when the
inherent properties of the cacti began to have their effect upon the enervated
systems of the participants. The painful consequences of this strange diet at first
were a weakness in the joints, succeeded by a severe trembling and a desire to
vomit, accompanied with an almost insufferable pair in the stomach and bowels.
Three or four of the unfortunate sufferers were in such extreme pain they rolled
upon the ground for agony, with countenances writhing in every imaginable
shape of frightful distortion.
Hereupon it was decided to sacrifice one of our animals as a last resort, which
was promptly done, and we ended our fast of nearly seven days' continuance
with a feast of mule meat.
I had heretofore cherished a decided repugnance to this kind of food, but am in
justice bound to say, it proved both sweet and tender, and scarcely inferior to
beef. The supply thus obtained lasted till we came among buffalo, when ample
amends were made for previous abstinence.
The only game encountered during the march was an occasional band of
antelope or wild horses, whose extreme vigilance and caution set at defiance all
attempts to approach them, and sported at the phrensy of our desperate efforts.
Our camp, at the termination of this arduous and eventful journey, was in a small
grove of cottonwood, about eight hundred yards below the point at which the trail,
from Bent's Fort to Taos, crosses the right hand fork of the de las Animas.
It was faced on the north by a broad sandy prairie, gently undulating, that, at
intervals, disclosed a good soil, and led to a distant ridge of pine-clad hills; while
from the west, at a distance of some twenty or thirty miles, the proud and isolated
summits of the Spanish Peaks, or Huaquetories, arose to view, and from the
southwest, the lofty and noble tierras templadas that skirt the heads of the
Cimarone and Colorado, whose broad tops showed themselves in beautiful
contrast with the sharp, snow-clad mountain forming the eastern boundary to the
valley of Taos; then, upon the south and east, a steep bank, twenty-five or thirty
feet high, shut us from the contiguous plain.
While here, we kept strict and constant guard, in view of anticipated movements
of the enemy, as, from certain information previously obtained, we knew him to
be quartered in full force at the nearest settlements.
Our daily and hourly expectation was to meet a detachment of the Mexican army,
then out for the purpose of reconnoitering; and, weak as we were in point of
numbers, we felt quite equal to a hundred such soldiers, and were anxious for a
trial of arms.
Our stay was prolonged for three or four weeks, and the abundance of choice
buffalo meat that continued to grace our larder, with the rank growth of fresh
grass for the sustenance of our animals, imparted an air of cheerfulness and thrift
both to man and beast.
Nothing occurred worthy of note during the interval, save the following incident.
One day, late in the afternoon, our sentinels announced the appearance of a
small party of Mexicans at the crossing, and immediate preparations were made
for an attack. Before these could be completed, however, our expected enemy
was reported as having raised camp and being likely to escape by a precipitate
retreat towards the Arkansas. Six men, mounted upon fleet horses, were
immediately detached in pursuit, —of whom I was one.
The chase continued for several miles, and terminated in our overhauling three
persons, —but, instead of Mexicans, two of them were Americans, and the other
an Englishman, on their way to the United States with two pack mules heavily
laden with gold and silver.
On receiving from them information of the disposition and probable whereabouts
of the Mexican forces, they were permitted to depart unmolested, —a
circumstance not likely to have happened had we been the gang of "lawless
desperadoes," so hideously depicted in several of the public prints of the day, as
I have since learned.
An item of the intelligence received through them, gave us mingled sensations of
pain and pleasure.
An European Spaniard, —who had made one of the Texan army in its
unfortunate expedition against Santa Fe, in the fall of 1842, and had been
retained a prisoner of war for a number of months subsequent, having effected
his escape to the Indian country, — on hearing of the recent movements of the
Texans under Col. Warfield, had come and reported himself ready again to enlist.
On the strength of this assurance he was partially admitted to confidence, — a
thing rarely to be reposed in any one of Spanish extraction. The result was, that,
after gleaning all the information circumstances would admit of, he proceeded,
post haste to Santa Fe, and laid the whole affair before Gen. Armijo, the Mexican
Governor, in hopes of a handsome reward.
The old Governor, however, had received more exact intelligence, with the
names and number of volunteers composing the party under Col. W., (furnished
him through the medium of certain Americans, base enough in principle and
sordid enough in motive, to act as his spies, for a paltry bribe in the shape of
stipulated remissions of tariff duties on imported goods, etc.,) and treated the
traitor to his cause quite cavalierly, — not hesitating to tell him he lied, and even
accuse him of being a Texan spy — threatening to try and execute him as such!
Were this ever the reward of treason, how few would be TRAITORS!
CHAPTER XXX.
March down the Cimarone. Junction of the two divisions. Country between the de
las Animas and the Cimarone. Perilous descent. Cañon of the Cimarone. Soil
and prevailing rock. A fort. Grandeur and sublimity of scenery. Beauty of rocks.
Cimarone of the pain. Fruits and game. Wide spread desolation. A dreary
country. Summer on the Desert. Remarks. Encounter with Indians. Nature's
nobleman. Wild horses and different modes of catching them. Failure of expected
reinforcements. March into the enemy's country. Ancient engravings upon a rock.
Boy in the wolf's den. A man lost. Forced march. Torment of thirst. Remarks. The
lost found. Expulsion for cowardice, —its effect.
SOON after the incident related at the close of the preceding chapter, an express
arrived from the Col. commandant, with dispatches ordering our division to join
him at a small creek near the Pilot Buttes, or "Rabbit Ears," two noted landmarks
situated some forty miles above the Santa Fe trail, and nearly equidistant
between the Arkansas and Cimarone.
We accordingly took up our line of march and proceeded nearly due south for
two days and a half, to the Cimarone; thence, down the valley of the latter, five
days' travel to the Santa Fe trail, and thence, west-north west, one day and a half
to the place of rendezvous, which we found without difficulty after a journey of
one hundred and seventy miles.
Between the de las Animas and Cimarone, we crossed a long reach of arid
prairie, slightly undulating and generally barren, with the exception of small fertile
spots among the hills, here and there, clothed with rank grasses.
In some parts, the cacti so completely covered the ground that it was impossible
to step, for miles in succession, without treading upon their sharp thorns; in
others, the thick clusters of absinthe monopolized the vicinity of creeks, nearly to
the exclusion of all dissimilar vegetation; and yet in others, though of more brief
space, naked sterility refused foot t aught save gravel and stiff clay, or saline
efflorescences.
The water of most of the streams was so highly impregnated with mineral salts, it
was often unfit to drink. The creeks afforded very little timber, and frequently
none at all.
The section immediately at the base of the high table lands to the right, exposed
some beautiful spreads of fertile prairie, well watered and suitably timbered. The
soil, as a whole, presented all the prominent characteristics of like portions of
country previously described.
The prevailing rock was limestone and sandstone, with various conglomerates,
and extensive beds of gypsum. I noticed some very large specimens of mica, of
great beauty and transparency, —one, in particular, was nearly a foot square,
and two inches thick.
The only indication of minerals coming under my notice, was iron and salts;
though gold has been found in the immediate vicinity of the Huaquetories, and
silver ill the neighborhood of the de las Animas, —some very rich specimens of
the latter ore, said to have been procured in this region having met my
observation.
Near the Cimarone the country is very rugged and mountainous. Upon the right a
lofty expanse of table land, some eight hundred or a thousand feet high, leads far
off till it becomes lost in the distance; while, upon the left, the more elevated
tierras templadas of the Colorado, gently curving from south to east, mark the
division between the Cimarone and the latter stream.
Every watercourse is immured by cañons of craggy rocks that often preclude all
access to it for many successive miles. The side-hills and prairie ridges, to some
extent, are clothed with pines, pinion and cedars; and the creeks, whenever the
narrow space of their prison-walls will permit it, afford beautiful groves of
cottonwood and thick clusters of fruit-bearing shrubs and underbrush.
Our course for a number of miles, previous to descending to the valley of the
Cimarone, lay at the base of the table mountain on the right.
The entrance to this valley was by a narrow buffalo trail, leading down a
perpendicular wall of clay and rock, sidelong in a shelf-like path, barely wide
enough for a single horse or man to advance carefully, as the least misstep might
plunge him down the abyss to be dashed in pieces upon the sharp fragments
detached from the overhanging cliffs.
The wall thus descended was from eight hundred to a thousand feet in altitude,
and faced by another of equal height at a distance of twenty-five or thirty yards.
The spectacle was grand and awful beyond description. A rock, that broke loose
about midway as we descended the pass, fell thundering down the frightful steep
with a tremendous crash, and made the welkin ring as it reverberated along the
vast enclosure with almost deafening clamor. I have witnessed many romantic
and picturesque scenes, but never one so magnificently grand, so awe-inspiring
in its sublimity, as that faintly delineated in the preceding sketch.
Entering the cañon at this point, after wandering a short distance among the
huge masses of broken rock thrown from its towering sides, the traveller is
ushered into a valley nearly a mile broad, shut in by mural mountains that rise to
a varied height of from eight to fifteen hundred or two thousand feet, gradually
expanding as he proceeds till it attains a width of from two to four miles.
This valley generally possesses a very rich soil, sometimes of a deep, gravelly
mould, and almost of vermilion-like color, assimilating the famous redlands of
Texas, and, in appearance, equally fertile, —then, a dark brown loam obtrudes to
view, sustaining a dense vegetation of lusty growth, and, yet again, a light sandy
superstratum, affording but small indications of productiveness; or diminutive
spreads of stiff clay, frowning in their own nudity; or barren wastes, of less extent,
that, in deep penitence for their utter worthlessness, exude their briny tears in
unremitting succession, which, as the solar rays strike on them with kind intent to
wipe away, spread o'er their parent surfaces bleached shrouds of shining salt.
The latter part of this description, so far as my observation has extended, will
apply to nearly the entire valley of the Cimarone after it emerges from the cañon.
The place at which this romantic valley first attains its full width, is the confluence
of a small tributary to the main creek, near an isolated summit, that protrudes far
out from the mountain range and commands the approaches from either
direction.
This peak is five or eight hundred feet high, and inaccessible, except from the
back ground by a gradual acclivity scarcely wide enough for two persons to
ascend abreast The top presents a small area of level surface, securely
defended by an enclosing wall of rock, five or six feet in height, raised at its brow
evidently by the hand of art. A better position, in a military point of view, for a
fortification, is rarely found. Fifty men, suitably provisioned and equipped, might
successfully defend it against an army of thousands.
The rocks of this vicinity exhibit a more striking variety of color than any I ever
before witnessed. Their predominant classification enumerates granite,
sandstone (generally ferruginous,) limestone, and slate. These were disclosed in
abrupt escarpments of several hundred feet altitude, or in isolated, quadrangular
masses with vertical sides, assuming the appearance of gigantic fortifications,
temples and palaces;— or in a more multiform aspect, now portraying vast walls
with narrow basements, that, diverging from the mountains, intersect the valley at
intervals from side to side, except, perchance, at a well-formed gateway, — now,
towering monuments, spires, and pyramids, and again sculptured statues of men
and beasts.
All these magnificent representations are gorgeously decked with parti-colored
strata lying tier above tier, in regular order, some white, others black, blue,
brown, green, gray, yellow, red, purple, or orange, and so strangely intermingled
that they cannot fail to excite the admiration of every beholder.
The Cimarone rises in the range of table lands thirty-five or forty miles eastsoutheast of Taos, and, after following a serpentine course for nearly six hundred
miles, empties into the Arkansas some distance above Fort Gibson. As it
emerges from the mountains, (where it is a stream of considerable depth and a
rapid current, confined to a narrow space between high clayey banks, with a bed
of rock and pebbles,) it expands to a great width, and, in a short distance, its
waters become brackish and unfit for use, till they finally disappear among the
quicksands, and leave a dreary waste of worse than emptiness, to mark the
course of the transient volumes produced by the melting snows of spring and the
annual rains of autumn.
During its course through the Great American Desert, not a tree or shrub graces
its banks. Its mountain valley, however, is ornamented with numerous and
beautiful groves of cottonwood, that present among their underbrush a profuse
abundance of plum, cherry, gooseberry, and currant bushes, with grape vines;
while the adjoining hills afford oak, pine, pinion, and cedar.
Here also game abounds in great quantities, including, buffalo, wild horses, deer,
antelope, elk, and turkeys.
We frequently encountered four or five hundred head of wild horses in a single
band, and turkeys showed themselves in every direction.
The pleasant moonlight nights, that favored our journey through this delightful
valley, were the source of great success in turkey-hunting, and afforded us no
small sport. Nearly every large cottonwood tree was occupied as a roost, and the
season as yet had not far enough advanced to hide its tenants amid the growing
foliage. Each night, as the moon reached a suitable position, my practice was to
seek out these perching-trees, from which I rarely failed to return heavily laden.
One night myself and companion killed ten of these fowls — some of them
having an inch thickness of pure fat upon the back. It is unnecessary to say that
with such abundance, strown so lavishly on every side, the fare upon our march
adown this thrice-enchanting valley was one continued scene of sumptuous
entertainment.
But, loveliness gives place to arid sterility, and verdure to dreary desolation, as
the traveller makes his exit from the mountains.
Almost the entire expanse, from the Arkansas nearly to the Gulf of Mexico, an
interval ranging south-southeast, from fifty to two hundred miles in width,
between longitudes 100° and 104° west from Greenwich, is said to be little else
than a vast desert of barrenness, destitute of tree or shrub, or spire of grass
relieve the aching eye, nor favoring stream with kindly flow to quench the fevered
thirst.
The whole country is subject to high winds, that sweep over it at brief intervals in
maddened fury, bearing in their course immense clouds of dust, and engendering
amid the waste landscape a scene of frequent change. To-day the wayfarer may
find his progress impeded by no inconsiderable hills of loose sand, and tomorrow he may pass in the same direction and find a level prairie, —a fact not
unaptly expressed in the words of the Psalmist, "the mountains skipped like
rams, and the little hills like lambs!"
Between the Cimarone and the Arkansas, back from the watercourses, the
prospect is but little better.
In the vicinity of the former are numerous spreads of rolling sand prairie, if not
entirely naked, but scantly clothed with coarse, scattering grass, growing upon a
surface so loose that a horse or mule will sink to his fetlocks at every step in
passing over it; then come broad reaches of slightly undulating plains, mantled
with sickly, dwarf vegetation, and sustained by a thin clayey soil, so baked and
indurated by the sun as to become almost impervious to water.
The snows of spring and the rains of autumn, as before hinted, afford the only
moisture ever known to these arid regions. Here dews, alike with transient
showers, are entire strangers to the summer months, and eave the scorching
heat of a vertical sun to snatch the fading beauties of spring and turn their
loveliness into stubble.
The following lines, written upon the spot, as our little party were about to
withdraw from this dreary solitude, but poorly portray some of the dismal realities
then presented:
SUMMER ON THE GREAT AMERICAN DESERT.
Ye dreary plains, that round me lie,
So parch'd with summer's heat,
No more ye please my wand'ring eye,
Or woo my weary feet.
Why hath the spring your beauty borne
Into his hiding place,
And left the widow'd winds to mourn
The charms they would embrace?
Why should those flowers, whose honey'd breath
With incense filled the breeze,
Drooping and wither'd, lie in death,
And now no longer please?
That grassy carpet, green and wide,
Why turn'd to stubble now?
Save 'chance along some streamlet's side,
Where less'ning waters flow!
And why those gently murm'ring rills,
Whose soft melodious strains
Were wont to echo 'mong the hills,
No longer reach the plains?
The lark no longer meets the morn,
Nor linnet pours his throat,
Nor feather'd warbler hails the dawn
With his sweet, mellow note;
Nor even insect cheers the scene,
Where Solitude alone,
In wither'd garb, as Desert Queen,
Rears her eternal throne!
These thirsty plains, with open mouth,
Implore the gentle shower;
But vainly plead, while summer's drouth
In scorching heat doth pour!
Nor grateful shade, of spreading tree,
Invites my feet to rest;
Nor cooling stream, in melody,
Attempts my quicken'd zest.
So dismal all! why should I stay
And sicken by their view?
Thrice gladly will I turn away,
And bid these scenes adieu!
The only inhabitants of this vast region are strolling bands of buffalo and wild
horses, with wolves, prairie dogs, and a few scattering antelope. The only human
beings that visit it are Mexican traders and occasional war-parties of Pawnee,
Apache, Kuyawa, Cumanche, and Arapaho Indians, and they only for the brief
interval required in its hurried passage.
Who, then, so wild as to suppose for a moment that such a country can ever
become inhabited by civilized man ?— unless the time should literally be ushered
in, when, to use the language of Scripture, "the desert shall bud and blossom as
the rose!"
Late in the afternoon, towards the close of our journey, a little below the point at
which the Santa Fe trail crosses the Cimarone, we came upon two horses that
appeared to have recently strayed from some travelling party. According to the
custom of the country anything encountered in this manner is good and lawful
prize to the finder, and we forthwith set about taking possession.
One of them, however, a two-year-old colt, proved so unmanageable we were
obliged to kill it in order to secure the other. Being rather scantily supplied with
provisions, the fresh-slaughtered animal (fine and fat as it was) presented an
opportunity too tempting not to be improved in replenishing our stock, which
induced us to encamp for that purpose.
Soon after a large party of horsemen made their appearance from over the
neighboring hills, and, having devoted a few minutes to reconnoitering, advanced
upon us at full charge. In an instant our little force was drawn up in readiness to
repel the expected attack. But, instead of enemies, the objects of our
apprehension proved a squad of Arapahos, and they were accordingly allowed to
come into camp.
One of our visitors happened to be the owner of the two horses we had found,
which, as he stated, (having described them minutely,) had strayed from his
village, some six miles distant; he then enquired of us if we had seen them. Here
was a dilemma; should we deny the fact, and run the risk of being caught in a
falsehood? or should we confess and abide the consequences? Our
commandant decided upon the latter course; but, in so doing, had resort to an
artful duplicity to bear upon the finer feelings of the Indian, and replied:
"My warriors had suffered long for lack of food. Three suns had sunk behind the
mountain, and not one morsel had entered their mouths to give them strength for
travel. In their distress they enquired of the Great Spirit, and He showed them the
lost animals of my brother.
"My warriors were not slow to receive the welcome gift. The flesh of the younger
one hath caused us to bless the Good Spirit; the other is with our own medicinedogs, that my brother may search for it no longer."
The owner, on hearing this, looked very sorrowful. The colt had been a favorite of
his squaw and children. In a moment, however, he arose, and, extending his
hand to the commandant, exclaimed:
"My heart is good. My white brother did well to receive the gift of the Good Spirit,
that his warriors might eat."
Commandant. But the young medicine-dog of my brother was the beloved of his
wife and little ones. What will he that I give him so they sorrow not?
Indian. Now, my heart blesses the pale face. If he would bestow his gifts, what
better could I receive at his hand than a small present of tobacco, that my pipe
may be filled to the undying friendship of him and his people.
A few pieces of tobacco were accordingly given, and the good-hearted Indian,
after shaking hands with each one of our party, took his horse and departed to
his village.
Where, let me ask, do we find, in civilized countries an instance of noble
generosity equal to that of the poor savage?
The Arapaho village, as we learned from our visitors, had been camped in the
vicinity several days, for the twofold purpose of awaiting the Cumanches and
catching wild horses. This, by the way, reminds me of not having as yet
described the manner of performing the latter feat.
In taking wild horses, two methods are resorted to, alike displaying considerable
tact and ingenuity. Of these the following is the most common:
A large party of Indians, mounted on their fleetest chargers, having discovered a
band of these animals, carefully approach from the leeward, scattering
themselves to a distance of eight or ten miles along the course their intended
captives are expected to run. This done, the chase is started at a given signal, by
the nearest Indian, who is relieved by the next in succession, and he by the next,
and so on (taking their cue from the strategy of wolves in their capture of the
antelope) until these proud rangers of the prairie, exhausted by their longcontinued and vain efforts to escape, cease to assert their native liberty, and fall
easy prey to the lasso of their pursuers.
Another plan frequently adopted is, to erect a stout fence from side to side,
between two impassable walls of rock. The unsuspicious band are then so
started as necessarily to be driven within the enclosure, when their ready
pursuers, closing in upon the rear, take them without the trouble of a long chase.
Great numbers of wild horses are annually captured by these means, which
become domesticated in a very short time. But, as a general thing, they are less
adapted to hard service than those reared in the ordinary way, and are far more
disposed to re-assert their birthright of freedom at the first opportunity that
occurs.
Our visitors communicated the important intelligence that a detachment of four
hundred Mexicans had passed their village only two days previous, on its way to
Arkansas; which statement was further corroborated by certain indications
noticed in the trail. The enemy was evidently in pursuit of us, and, weak as we
were numerically, none expressed any other feeling than that of a willingness to
meet him.
From this camp, our course bore west-northwest for thirty or forty miles, during
which distance we found no water, and suffered greatly from the agonizing
effects of thirst. One of our pack-horses, also, took the "stampede," and ran off
with his entire load, consisting principally of ammunition, and all our efforts to
retake him proved abortive.
About noon the succeeding day, we reached our destination, where a junction
was formed, not with the army we had hoped to find, but with the mere handful
who had parted from us a few weeks since at the Arkansas.
Discouragement and discontent were depicted upon the countenance of every
one, as the lateness of the season admonished us of the extreme uncertainty of
the arrival of expected reinforcements. The dreaded approach of the
Cumanches, those unsparing enemies of the Texans, of whom we had received
reliable intelligence, far more than the proximity of four hundred Mexican troops,
gave us just cause for apprehension. A council was held forthwith, to decide
upon the course proper to be pursued. Prudence seemed to dictate an
abandonment of our present position, —while the enemy were looking for us in
another quarter, we might steal a march upon him in his own country.
These suggestions gave tone to subsequent movements, and early in the
morning of the day following we were under way. For ten or fifteen miles, our
course continued up the dry sand-creek that had marked our place of
rendezvous, and the night following was passed with a few lodges of Arapahos,
who were encamped at a small pool of water near a bluff bank of sandstone.
This rock exhibited many rude engravings upon its smooth side, representing
men, women, and children, dogs, snakes, and lizards, with various other devices,
— evidently the work of ancient artists in commemoration of some remarkable
occurrence connected with the former history of the country.
I examined the sketch with deep interest, and felt as if glancing at the obscure
records of the greatness and glory of some extinct nation, written in a language,
like itself, now no longer known.
Our hunters, having accompanied the Indians to the chase, soon after returned
with a choice supply of fresh meat, and four wolf pups. The latter had been taken
by an Indian boy, three or four years old, who fearlessly entered the den, during
the absence of the dam, and bore away her defenceless family in triumph.
The next day saw us again en route. One of our men, having obtained
permission of the commanding officer, proceeded a short distance in advance of
the main party for the purpose of hunting. Not paying strict attention to the course
proposed, he mistook his way, and, despite our continued efforts to set him
aright, could no longer be seen or heard of, and we were at length reluctantly
forced to give him up.
Continuing up the creek some two days, we found it very difficult to procure
water, and were often compelled to dig for it in the sand to a depth of three or
four feet.
From this point, we bore south-southwest, and after more than a day and night's
hard travelling, over an arid sand-prairie, favored by neither tree, shrub, nor
watercourse, we arrived at the head of a small affluent of the Cimarone, inducting
us to the bewitching scenery of the thrice lovely valley that lay immured within its
giant walls.
The fatigue of a forced march, combined with the sweltering heat of an almost
torrid sun by day and scorching winds by night, in addition to the indescribable
torments of burning thirst for nearly thirty hours, had rendered us almost frantic
with agony.
What tongue can tell the sweetness of the draught that first greeted our parched
lips, at the termination of this painful interval? What mind can conceive the
inestimable value of water, until destitution unfolds its real merits?
Hunger, one may forget in the sweet unconsciousness of sleep, or glut his
appetite, meanwhile, upon the tasteless feasts of fancy, —but thirst, withering
thirst, can never be forgotten while it continues, —it will burn as it to scorch the
vitals and dry up the heart's blood!
Before leaving the sand-creek above alluded to, we passed several diminutive
bottoms and vallons that assumed an air of fertility. In these, I noticed an
abundance of the bread-root, and in the creek banks, two or three places gave
indication of coal. The prevailing rock was sandstone and limestone. The country
adjacent, with the exception of its being more tumulous, is much like the llanos
peculiar to this region.
On striking the Cimarone we continued our march up its valley for some three
days, and camped for a short time, to make a cache of our surplus baggage for
the purpose of travelling with greater expedition.
The day preceding, however, afforded two incidents worthy of note. One was the
re-appearance of our lost man, who, having found his way to this point, and
knowing we must necessarily make it in our line of march, had been awaiting us
for the past two days. He was hailed as one risen from the dead, and welcomed
back to our midst.
But the expulsion of three for cowardice almost immediately followed the reaccession of one. Considerable dissatisfaction had existed for some time, in
reference to our plan of operations. Several of the company had openly talked of
desertion, and were using their earnest endeavors to persuade others to this
course. As we approached the enemy's country, the spirit of insubordination
showed itself with increased violence. The time and place, even, were pitched
upon for raising the standard of rebellion against all orders and those who gave
them. Affairs at length reached a crisis that loudly demanded a resort to some
prompt measures to restore them to their proper equilibrium — an example must
be had.
Accordingly the company was drawn up in line, when the articles subscribed to
by each of its members were read. This done, the commanding officer addressed
the male-contents in a few brief words, demanding which of those articles he had
violated, — if neither, they were equally binding as at first;— then, alluding to the
rumors that had reached his ears from various sources, he stated his readiness
to release any one requesting it from further obligation, — but the discharge
should be a dishonorable one, —a discharge for cowardice!
"Yes," said he, "COWARDICE! We are on the eve of entering the enemy's
country, and the hearts of some doubtless begin to fail them. Texas wants no
cowards to fight her battles! None but brave men and true, are worthy of that
honor! Now, I repeat it. if any timorous spirit, —any pusillanimous heart, —any
despicable poltroon, wishes his discharge, I stand ready to give it; let him step
one pace in advance from the ranks and acknowledge himself a coward! His
name shall be erased from the muster-roll."
At this announcement, three men stepped forward, and their names were
severally repeated, as they received their discharge, accompanied by the cutting
words, — "reason-cowardice!"
After this the commanding officer again addressed them: " You are now
dishonorably discharged, and, as sentenced, before high heaven, I pronounce
you cowards. If either of you considers this sentence unjust, let him shoulder his
rifle and choose his own distance. I stand ready to give him any satisfaction he
may demand in reparation of his wounded honor. But, you shall pocket the
disgrace. To-night you may stay with us. — to-morrow you must and shall leave.
"And you, my brave comrades, who have chosen to abide by that flag which has
graced the triumphs of by-gone days, may you never desert it in the hour of
danger. Look up with hope, and as you gaze upon its bright star of lonely
grandeur, consider it the harbinger of success, —the genius of victory."
The next morning, the three faint-hearted volunteers accordingly left camp,
reducing our little number to twenty-one;— a lean force, truly, for an expedition
so hazardous. Yet none flinched at the thick array of anticipated dangers. All
were ready and anxious for the encounter.
The above summary proceeding completely effected its designed object, at least
for the present, and reduced the turbulent spirits to the wholesome restraints of
discipline.
CHAPTER XXXI.
Mexican camp. Pursuit. Advance upon Mora. Enemy discovered. Country
between the Rio de las Animas and Mora; its picturesque beauty. Admirable
point of observation. Fortified position. Battle of the pass; order of attack,
passage of the river, storming the enemy's camp, and number of killed, wounded
and prisoners. Council of war. Prisoners released. Message to Amijo. Return
march. Mexican army. Attacked, and results of action. Mexican bravery. Retreat.
Cross the Table Mountain. New species of wild onions. March down the de las
Animas. Discouragements accumulate. Disband. Sketch of factions. Texan
prisoners. Arrival of reinforcements. Battle of the Arroyo: killed, wounded, and
prisoners. Retreat of Amijo. "Stampede." Frightful encounter with the Cumanches
and Kuyawas. Discharge of troops. Affair with Capt. Cook. Surrender to U. S.
Dragoons, and failure of expedition. Return to Texas. Journey to the Platte.
Country between the Arkansas and Beaver creek. Feasting at camp. Crows'
eggs. Lateness of season. Snow-storm in June. An Indian fort. Serio-comico
adventure with a wolf. Indians. Song of the night-bird.
FROM Câche Camp we resumed our march, and, on the fourth day sub.
sequent, struck the Taos trail at the crossing of the de las Animas; thence,
continuing up the river about forty miles, we came to a place recently occupied
by a detachment of Mexicans. After a careful examination, we became satisfied
that it had been some sixty cavalry, who were then doubtless awaiting our
advance at no great distance; and, from appearances, not more than three days
had elapsed since its evacuation. Feeling ill-disposed to try the patience of our
enemy by keeping him in too long a suspense, we immediately started in pursuit.
The route led by a rough pass over a spur of the Taos Mountains which heads
the tierras templadas southwest of the Cimarone, into a prairie ranging from east
to west, forty-five or fifty miles long and thirty or more broad, and skirting the
three principal streams that unite to form the Colorado. From this point it
continued over another spur of the mountain chain into a valley some ten miles
broad, ranging from north to south and intersected by the trail from Taos to the
Santa Fe road, striking the latter near the Waggon Mound,53 —thence, for about
twenty-five miles, across a spread of high prairie, (quite rough and undulating,
with frequent hills assuming a mountainous character,) to a considerable creek,
four or five miles southeast of the town of Mora.
At this point our scouts reported the enemy as occupying a fortified camp, which
commanded the only feasible pass leading to the adjoining settlements. Upon the
reception of this intelligence we withdrew to a deserted ranche and encamped for
53
This mound is a singular natural elevation in the form of a covered waggon, near the road from the United States to
Santa Fe, —about fifty miles south of Taos.
the night, in order to obtain, if possible, more certain information relative to his
position and force.
The country between the de las Animas and this place, as a general thing, gave
indications of a good soil, but was quite arid, particularly the prairie skirting the
head branches of the Colorado. The hills and mountains were less sterile than
those farther east. They also afforded an abundance of timber, consisting of pine,
oak, cedar, and pinion. The creek bottoms embraced considerable quantities of
excellent land, though but sparsely timbered.
The mountains to the right towered majestically to an altitude of ten or twelve
thousand feet, opposing their snowy crests in stern defiance to the heat of a
summer's sun.
Toward the close of our march, the landscape disclosed a scene of romantic
beauty and grandeur. Mingled among the pleasing diversity of mountain, hill,
dale, and lawn, vegas and llanos, forests and prairies, here and there a small
lake mirrored forth its bright waters, swarming with innumerable water-fowl,
decorated by broad flowery banks, and shut in by rugged highlands and rocky
cliffs, that seemed like some fairy's home, where enchantment held Nature's self
in spell-bound admiration. The creeks and valleys of this section were also
enclosed by abrupt banks, that sometimes protruded their precipitous walls to the
very water's edge, and then again expanded to give place to the grass, fruits, and
flowers of mimic Edens.
The prevailing rock appeared to be gray granite, ferruginous sandstone, and
limestone. Game was rather scarce, and consisted principally of buffalo, deer,
and bear.
As a whole, this entire region may be considered as admirably adapted to
grazing purposes, and, were it not for its aridity, might be cultivated to a
considerable extent.
The men sent to reconnoitre returned about midnight, but had succeeded in
obtaining no satisfactory information of the enemy's position, owing to the
darkness and their ignorance of the topography of the country. However, they
reported having discovered a point overlooking his camp, from which our whole
force might watch his movements, screened from his observation by a dense
thicket of pines, and recommended it for our occupancy the ensuing day.
Accordingly, in the morning orders were given to that effect; and, after a march of
four or five miles, covered by an unbroken forest of pine and cedar, we arrived at
the place designated, and encamped almost within speaking distance of the
enemy.
No point could be more admirably situated for our purpose. The gradual acclivity
by which we had advanced, studded with pine, hemlock, and pinion, led to the
summit of a high ridge, bounding a broad valley upon its opposite side with vast
piles of perpendicular rock, several hundred feet in altitude. Through this valley a
large creek traced its way, graced by occasional groves of cottonwood and
willow. In one of these, appeared the Mexican encampment.
So matchless was our position, by aid of a spy-glass we could observe his every
movement without incurring the risk of being ourselves discovered.
A mere glance revealed the true state of affairs. The hostile force, consisting of
some sixty strong, completely commanded the only entrance into the valley from
the east, and was otherwise so advantageously posted as to render an
immediate attack extremely hazardous. We accordingly awaited the cover of
night for further operations, and contented ourselves meanwhile with watching
the unsuspecting foe.
Our plan was to storm the Mexican camp and force a passage into the adjoining
town, where we expected to encounter another detachment, and, after defeating
it, make good our retreat before a sufficient reinforcement could be rallied to
oppose us.
Soon after sundown, arrangements being completed, we commenced our march.
A detour of four or five miles led us to the head of a narrow and circuitous defile,
marking the entrance to the valley; winding our way through which silently, in a
few moments we were in the immediate vicinity of the enemy.
Here dismounting, the company was drawn into line, and the plan of attack
communicated to each, as follows: three men, mounted upon fleet horses, were
to dispose of themselves, if possible, in such a manner as to prevent an escape,
while the remainder, in two divisions, (the one headed by the Col. commandant
and the other by the first lieutenant,) commenced a simultaneous attack at
different points. Orders were given to scale the enemy's breastwork, seize his
arms, and demand his surrender, —but not to fire a shot, unless in case of
resistance or an attempt to escape; and, even then, to avoid all unnecessary
effusion of blood.
Thus disposed. we advanced to the charge;— but a new difficulty here arose.
The creek which, from our high point of observation during the day, had
appeared only a diminutive stream, now presented its broad surface, with a
current of swift and deep water, while a steep bank upon the other side showed
the enemy at its very verge. Nothing daunted we plunged in, and, almost as
soon, gained the opposite shore. Ascending the bank we attracted the notice of
the sentinels, and received the challenge:
Quienes veniren?" — who comes?
Que dijo? "— what do you say?
"Quienes veniren, carraho?"
At this a rush was made upon the challengers, who were almost instantly
disarmed, and our whole party, leaping into camp, gave to the enemy the first
intimation of its presence.
"Munchos Tajanos! " — exclaimed one, as the astonished Mexicans snatched
their arms.
"Si, munchos Tajanos. —Quieron los scoupetas!"— was the reply, as we sprang
to prevent them.
Here a smart struggle ensued, which resulted in the defeat of the enemy with a
loss of five killed, four wounded, and eighteen prisoners, —the remainder having
escaped despite our efforts to prevent it, — but all the camp equipage fell into
our hands, with seventy-two head of horses and mules. Among the arms taken
were two or three pieces that had belonged to the Texan Santa Fe expedition of
the fall of ‘41.
A council was now held to decide upon the expediency of proceeding
immediately to the neighboring town. A majority at first were favorable to the
proposition;— but some objected, and urged the imprudence of weakening our
force by a division, as we should either be necessitated to do, in that event, or
relinquish the advantages already gained, — and, further, the enemy, being
aware of our approach, was doubtless prepared to oppose a dangerous
resistance, such as would be attended with great risk of life on our part, without
securing any possible benefit in its result. The latter reasons influenced the
decision, and orders were accordingly given to withdraw from the scene of
action.
In the interim the wounded had been carefully attended to, and, as we were
about to leave, the prisoners were all set at liberty, with these words:
"You are now free. Bury your dead, and remember in future how vain it is to
resist the arms of Texas. Tell Amijo, your General, the Texans are men, and not
wild beasts. They never kill an unresisting enemy, they never kill a prisoner of
war. He has done both, —but let him beware how he does it again, for the lives
of ten Mexicans shall be the forfeit for each offence."
All things being arranged for a retrograde movement, we were promptly under
way upon our return march to the Cimarone. The route led within ten or twelve
miles of the Waggon Mound, at which point a large number of dark-looking
objects appeared, but so indistinctly we were unable to determine their nature;—
these, as we subsequently learned, were a body of Mexican troops, numbering
seven hundred and fifty men.
Continuing our course, about noon we made camp at a gap in the mountain
ridge, facing from the west the head branches of the Colorado.
The sentinels were cautiously posted, two upon the summit in the rear, and two
with the horses in front, and express orders given to them not to leave their
stations until relieved, and to give immediate notice of the appearance of any
suspicious object. The remainder of the party were soon busily occupied, some
in preparations for dinner, and others in making amends for a night of
wakefulness.
In fact, each one conducted himself apparently with as little concern as though it
were in, possible that a Mexican could be found this side of the halls of
Montezuma. Participating in this general feeling of security, and anxious to enjoy
the relaxations of camp, in a brief interval the sentinels deserted their posts and
mingled among the loungers.
This remissness was first noticed by a private, who hurriedly enquired,
Where is the guard?" Scarcely were the words spoken, when another exclaimed,
"There go our horses!"
The latter announcement aroused all hands — but only in time to witness our
whole cavallard under full headway before a small party of Mexican cavalry,
while at the same instant a brisk fire was opened upon us from the rear, and the
dusky forms of the enemy appeared both right and left; thus we had the
mortification to find our little band surrounded by a superior force.
Orders were given to dislodge the foe, and occupy his position in the rear. At the
word "charge," our dauntless partizans, with a shout, rushed up the steep hillside and drove the panic-stricken Mexicans before them, who fled with the
utmost precipitancy in all directions, throwing away their blankets, robes, arms,
and even clothes, to aid them in their hurried escape. So great was their
consternation, in less than fifteen minutes not one remained in sight, either far or
near.
On examining the premises, we found fifteen or twenty saddles, with a mule,
which they had likewise abandoned, —but only two half-jaded animals told the
remnants of the noble cavallard of more than eighty head that had grazed around
us scarcely thirty minutes before; a thing of itself equivalent of a defeat.
What could twenty-one footmen do in an open prairie opposed by hundreds of
cavalry, able at any time to choose their own place and mode of attack? The
issue was quite apparent, — we must retreat. In an advantageous position,
surrounded by game, and acquainted with the topography of the country, we
might hold out against a force of thousands; but it would be presumption to think
of either maintaining our present ground or advancing upon the foe.
Preparations were therefore immediately commenced for acting upon the only
prudent alternative now left. Each man selected for himself a blanket, or robe,
which, with such other necessaries as he could conveniently carry, was bound in
the form of a knapsack and strapped to his shoulders; our animals were then
heavily laden with provisions, and the remaining luggage (consisting of arms
taken from the enemy, saddles, robes, blankets, knives, &c.,) committed to the
flames; the value of property thus destroyed, amounted to several thousand
dollars. It was a melancholy thing to witness this wanton waste; yet such is the
custom of war under like circumstances.
Toward sundown we took up our line of march, each one on foot with his
shouldered pack, in every appearance illustrating the soldier's return "from the
war!"
In the above manner we trudged along, bearing a course due east, till the
evening of the third day, which brought us to the base of the table mountain at
the head of the Cimarone, —having discovered the enemy's scouts hovering in
the distance on two or three occasions during the interval. The day following we
crossed the mountain, upon whose summit was a beautiful plateau, some ten
miles in width and of unknown length.
The soil gave every evidence of fertility, and was well watered. I noticed a
number of strawberry vines—the first I had seen in the country, as well as a
profuse array of floral loveliness. A considerable lake also appeared, whose
banks were of perpendicular rock measuring a descent of fifteen or twenty feet;
while on its shady side a pile of snow bade defiance to the heat of summer, and
looked pleasingly strange amid the surrounding verdure.
After a lengthy search, we finally found a place of descent upon the opposite side
of the mountain, which led us into the valley of the extreme left hand fork of the
Rio de las Animas.
The bottom of this stream, as it emerged from the mountains, disclosed a soil of
extraordinary fertility. Among its indigenous productions I noticed a spread of fifty
acres or more, so densely covered with onions that hundreds of bushels might be
gathered in a short time. This plant was of a different kind from any I ever before
saw. Its color was white, size about equal to a pigeon's egg, and appearance
much like that of the common onion; but it had flag-shaped stalks, and was much
less offensive in taste and smell than is natural to this species of roots.
Continuing down the valley of this creek, we struck the de las Animas on the third
day subsequent, and on the seventh, arrived at the egress of that stream from its
frightful cañon, nearly opposite Bent's Fort on the Arkansas. From this place an
express was sent to the latter point to obtain, if possible, some information
relative to the expected reinforcement from Texas, and, also, in regard to the
movements of the enemy.
The next day, however, the messenger returned with a report so far from
encouraging, that it served still more to depress our fast-sinking hopes. A general
despondency seemed to weigh like an incubus upon the minds of both officers
and men. Our inability to hold out under existing circumstances was too
apparent, as the sphere of operations embraced a circuit of five hundred miles or
more, over deserts and mountains, that would waste us away with fatigue,
watchings, hunger and thirst, by long and dreary marches to be performed on
foot, through a country swarming with savage and half-civilized foes. A council
was accordingly held, which resulted in the almost unanimous decision to
disband.
Discharges previously made out, bearing date May 24th, were now presented to
each one, absolving him from all further connection with the Texan army, and, on
the morning of the 29th inst., our little band separated in three parties; one of
these, consisting of four men, left for the cañon of the Cimarone; another,
headed by Col. Warfield, started for Texas; and the remainder commenced their
return journey toward the Platte river.
The story of the former of these fractions, so far as relates to the difficulties
between Mexico and Texas, is briefly told. Our adventurers bearing for the
Cimarone reached their hoped-for Elysium; but, soon after, having fallen into an
ambuscade of one hundred and thirty Mexican troops, were taken prisoners, and,
in a few days subsequent, found themselves in irons and snugly stowed away in
the calaboose at Santa Fe; while there, one of them died from bad treatment,
and the others would have been shot had not the dread of Texan vengeance
prevented the deed. Succeeding events, however, effected their liberation.
The party accompanying Col. W. fell in with the expected reinforcements from
Texas, near the Crossing of the Arkansas, and again submitted itself to the
fortune of war. This force consisted of one hundred and eighty volunteers, under
the command of Col. Snively, an old veteran of the Texas revolution.
Soon after, a detachment of forty Texans, headed by Col. Warfield, encountered
the advance guard of the enemy, numbering one hundred picked men. The
approach of the latter had been observed from an eminence, when the Texans
were drawn up under cover of a small sand-bank, near a creek, (arroyo,)
awaiting to intercept him. Ignorant of the presence of danger, the Mexicans were
pressing on at a rapid rate, till brought to a sudden halt by an opposing force
within half rifle-shot.
"Quienes?" demanded the Texan officer.
"Mexicanas. Quienes sons uste?" replied the commandante.
"Tajanos," returned the Texan, through his interpreter. "We have come to fight,
and shall fight unless you surrender. But, that you may know with whom you
have to deal, we give you thirty minutes to decide whether to fight or surrender. If
you choose the former, a signal from your sword will announce the answer."
A brief discussion ensued among them upon this summons. The Mexicans were
disposed to surrender, but the Pueblo Indians, of whom fifty or more were
included in the party, scornfully refused to accede to any such proposition,
declaring that they had come to fight, and not to surrender like women upon the
first appearance of an inferior enemy. At length, a chief ended the dispute by
advancing to the front line and giving the prescribed signal.
The onset of the Texans was terrific beyond description. The enemy's line was
instantly broken, and the cry of "misericordia!" (mercy) sounded upon all sides.
The conflict lasted scarcely five minutes; but, though short, it was decisive and
bloody.
Twenty-two of the enemy were killed, thirty wounded, and the remainder taken
prisoners, with the exception of one who succeeded in affecting his escape. Not
a Texan was hurt.
General Amijo, who at this time lay encamped at the Cimarone, forty or fifty miles
distant, with an army of seven hundred Mexicans, on receiving intelligence of the
defeat of the flower of his invincibles, like other examples equally illustrious, felt
his courage "ooze out at his fingers' ends," and, not being disposed to encounter
such dangerous enemies, ordered an immediate retreat and fell back on Santa
Fe.
Col. Snively was on the point of marching in pursuit, when an incident occurred
which altered the whole aspect of affairs, and finally frustrated all the purposes of
the expedition. This was effected by a war-party of eighty Kuyawa and
Cumanche Indians, who succeeded in stampeding a large band of the army
horses.
They were followed by eleven men under the command of Col. Warfield, and,
after a running fight of two or three miles, an action was brought about. As they
halted, Col. W. ordered his men to dismount and form a breastwork with their
horses, which was promptly done; meanwhile the Indians, numbering sixty or
more, had closed around, with whoops and yells, and other demonstrations of
their expected triumph.
A discharge from the Texans brought four of their warriors to the ground, and
wounded six more. This broadside was returned through a shower of arrows, and
repeated by the intrepid eleven in a pistol-round, when three more of the
assailants fell, and twice that number felt the effects of an unerring aim.
Hereupon the Indians hastily retreated with their wounded, leaving seven of their
number to grace the scene of action. Not one of the Texans was injured, and
only one of their horses killed and three wounded. Further pursuit, however, was
abandoned, and the captive horses were left to honor the service of their new
masters.
A loss so inopportune caused the postponement of further operations for the
present, and, in connection with other difficulties, created so much discontent in
the minds of some, that one entire company declared its intention of returning to
Texas, and requested its immediate discharge. An emergency of this kind, not
having been provided for in the terms of enlistment, left the commanding officer
no other alternative than to accede to a measure he had no power to prevent,
and the demands of the disaffected were accordingly complied with.
The army was thus reduced to eighty effective men, which made it necessary to
release the prisoners as yet retained in custody. These during their detention had
been treated with great kindness, and their wounded carefully attended to by the
company's surgeon; on their release twelve horses were allowed for their
conveyance, while the other prisoners were furnished with four rifles and a
quantity of ammunition, two running horses, and enough provisions to serve for
several days. Thus provided, they were set at liberty with the pithy message: "Bid
your countrymen learn, from this example, how to treat prisoners of war!"
Soon after the events above related, the army took up a position on the Arkansas
river, a few miles below the Santa Fe road, for the purpose of procuring a supply
of provisions from the vast quantities of buffalo afforded by that vicinity. While
encamped here, hunting parties were allowed to cross into the United States
territory in quest of game, —not in a national capacity, but as mere private
individuals.
On one of these occasions the hunters were discovered and pursued by two
companies of United States Dragoons, under Capt. Cook, on their way to escort
the Santa Fe traders as far as the Crossing of the Arkansas.
The chase was continued to the river bank opposite the Texan camp. when a
conference was requested, and the commanding officers of both armies met, as
was supposed, for an interchange of mutual civilities; but such proved not to be
the case.
Captain Cook, on the part of the Americans, contended that the Texans had
invaded the United States territory, and that they even now occupied a position
within its limits;— his duty was plain. He must demand, and, if necessary,
enforce their immediate surrender. Thirty minutes only would be allowed for a
decision.
Cols. Snively and Warfield urged many arguments to prove the injustice of his
demand and the fallacy of the premises upon which it was based, but all to no
purpose. The Captain was inflexible.
Meanwhile, the American troops had crossed the river, and were drawn up in
front of the Texans ready for action. It was vain for a force of eighty men to
attempt holding out against one hundred and sixty United States Dragoons,
backed by two field-pieces. Retreat, too, was impracticable, and they accordingly
surrendered their arms, upon Texan territory, in compliance with the unjust
demands of the American commander.
Forty of the prisoners were escorted to Fort Leavenworth, and the remainder set
at liberty, and left with only twelve rifles to fight their way back to Texas, through
the heart of the Cumanche country. They had, however, previously managed to
secrete a quantity of arms and ammunition, and, in a few minutes subsequent to
their release, were fully equipped and ready to meet a Mexican force of eight
times their number.
Col. Warfield was elected commander of the newly organized company, who
immediately set out in quest of the enemy.
But here a new obstacle presented itself;— the whole country was swarming with
Cumanche and Kuyawa Indians; so much so that a further prosecution of the
campaign must inevitably prove most disastrous. This circumstance led to the
abandonment of the purposes of the expedition, and the scanty remnants of the
army engaged in it took up their line of march for Texas, where they arrived
during the month of July following, wasted by toil and suffering, as well as by
repeated conflicts with a relentless savage foe.
Thus ended the second attempt to subjugate the province of Santa Fe to the
government of the new-born Republic of Texas.
A few days preceding this grand finale, a small party, including myself,
commenced its journey to the mountains adjoining the head waters of the Platte
river. We were all on foot, and suffered greatly from fatigue and thirst during our
dreary march over the plains of burning sand and withered stubble that impeded
our progress for some distance.
Crossing the Arkansas at a point several miles below Bent's Fort, we proceeded
up one of the numerous dry creeks finding their discharge into that stream from
the north, and, on the fifth day subsequent, arrived at a grove of cottonwood,
upon a watercourse near the eastern extremity of the "Divide," and in the
immediate vicinity of several tributaries of both the Platte and Kansas rivers.
Here the abundance of buffalo induced four of us to remain for a short time, while
the others continued their course.
The intermediate country from the Arkansas to this place, presents an uninviting
aspect, and, though not naturally sterile, is rendered repulsive from its extreme
aridity. The creeks are most of them mere beds of sand, entirely destitute of
water, except at brief intervals when their percolated currents are shown in
brackish pools, soon again to inhume themselves in the willing earth.
There is rarely a tree in the whole distance, which circumstance adds much to
the cheerlessness of its solitude. A general scarcity of rock also prevails, and the
only specimens I noticed were exhibited in the banks of watercourses, and
consisted of slate and fossiliferous limestone (formed of an extinct species of
shell-fish, principally bivalves.) The soil in many places might be called fertile,
and, were it not for lack of moisture, could be turned to good account for
agricultural purposes.
The landscape is generally undulating, disclosing at the north and northeast
broken ridges of hills, which were now and then surmounted by scattering pines.
The buffalo having left the vicinity soon after our arrival, we again moved camp
eight or ten miles, to Beaver creek, an affluent of the Platte, where we remained
for fifteen or twenty days.
Our stay at this place was one continued series of feasting, as we lacked nothing
of all the varied delicacies procurable in a country abounding with game. But one
item in our entertainment was indeed a novelty, —viz. crows' eggs. Almost every
tree and bush, skirting the creek at intervals for miles above and below, had been
appropriated to the use of the countless swarms of crows that populated the
surrounding prairie. Sometimes four or five nests of these birds might be seen
upon a single tree. On two or three occasions I obtained from six to ten dozen of
eggs in the course of an hour. These, whether boiled, roasted, or fried, were
found quite an acceptable addition to our bill of daily fare.
The climate of this region is evidently less mild, and its warm season much
shorter, than is common to other places in the same latitude.
It was now the middle of June, and yet the wild fruits, currants, cherries, and
plums, were only in blossom, and all other kinds of vegetation assumed the
appearance of recent spring. Indeed, the day succeeding our arrival, snow fell to
a depth of three or four inches, and remained upon the ground for several hours.
Whether such occurrences are common, I have not the necessary information to
decide.
In our excursions after game, the remains of an Indian fort had been discovered
in a small grove, a short distance below camp, which received the honor of our
subsequent occupancy. A few hours devoted to repairs rendered it a complete
shelter from either wind or rain; and, still farther to enhance its conveniences, we
succeeded in digging a small well adjoining the entrance, thus securing a most
welcome supply of cool water. Here revelling in the midst of plenty, with nothing
to think of or care for but our own personal comforts, we had no mind to
exchange our situation for the fatigues of war and the drudgery of camp-duty.
Several incidents also occurred in the interim to enliven the scene and relieve its
otherwise dull monotony. On one occasion a strolling wolf, venturing too near
camp, received the contents of my rifle and instantly fell. Supposing the shot to
be a fatal one, I advanced and seized him by the tail with the design of taking his
skin.
But the creature, having been only stunned by a neck wound, now revived in full
strength, and, enraged at his rough treatment, called into exercise the utmost
tension of his energies to afford a bitter sample of the fierceness of wolfine
vengeance. Here was a quandary—to relinquish the hold would have been to
invite a doubtful collision — to allow him an instant's time for turning upon me,
must have proved equally perilous; the only resource was to retain my grasp with
twofold energy, and run backwards as fast as possible, which I did, pulling the
struggling beast after me, —now twisting this way, now that way, in vain effort to
attack, and growling and snapping his teeth with all the ferocity of his savage
nature.
What would have been the result of this strange adventure, it is hard to tell, were
it not that one of my camp-mates hastened to the rescue, and with a club
despatched his wolfship. At any rate I had no curiosity to submit the question to a
further test.
With us the practice of early rising was remembered only as the whim of
visionary theorists, and this important item in the routine of daily duties, was often
postponed to an unreasonable hour. Once we came very near paying dearly for
the indulgence. The sun had told more than two hours of his daily round, and
only one of our number had doffed the drowsiness of sleep and betaken himself
to an eminence to scan the surrounding solitude. Here the first object that met his
gaze was a war-party of mounted savages, advancing upon him at full charge.
He had scarcely time to reach camp and give the alarm, when the whole troop
came pouring in upon all sides with the rapidity of a torrent, making the air
resound with their terrific yells. Seizing my arms I was the first to meet the
assailants, and, levelling at them, made signs that an advance would be at their
peril. Upon this they recoiled, and shouted at the top of their voices, "Amigos!
Arapahos!" accompanied with the signs of friendship and their nation.
Satisfied of the truth of these declarations, we permitted them to come up, and, in
a few minutes, all were quietly seated, and the "pipe" performing its tireless
rounds.
Our boldness in daring to offer a resistance greatly excited their surprise, and the
more so, as we had only four rifles, while they had many arrows, and were more
than ten times our number. An old chief, after listening to their remarks, replied:
"My people must not deceive themselves. The pale faces are brave and kill their
enemies a long way off. Those" said he, pointing to a brace of pistols, "would
have laid many of my warriors low, after the medicine-irons had spoken their
death-words. The Great Spirit has taught the pale-face how to fight."
Our visitors had at first supposed us a war-party of Pawnees, and came with the
full design of securing a scalp-dance. Had they caught us napping, without doubt
our own lives would have been substituted for those of their enemies.
In a few hours the motley crew again resumed their course, and left us to the
undisturbed enjoyment of our sequestered retreat, thankful indeed to be free
from their presence.
In addition to the howling of wild beasts and the hooting of prairie-owls by night,
the locality afforded other music to sooth the hours of slumber. A bird of unknown
species had built her nest in the boughs of a cottonwood that expanded directly
over our heads, and devoted her maternal care to the sustenance of her
fledglings. But her unwearied industry by day less commanded our admiration
than the sweet melody of her nocturnal warblings.
Soon as the "pointers" told the "noon of night," her song commenced in all its
variations, like the soft breathings of an angel's lute, nor ceased till the gray of
morning broke from the empurpled east. Often have I listened half dreamingly to
the bewitching notes that mingled with the harsh discord of the wilderness
around me, and fancied myself guarded by celestial spirits against the assaults of
harm.
With such kindly thoughts, who might not mount in his slumbers on the wings of
imagination, and step from star, as 'mid the changeless realms of bliss.
CHAPTER XXXII.
Lost. Night on the Prairie. Head of the Kansas river. Mineral Country. Gold.
Wonderful incident relative to a wounded bull. Indians. Join the Arapahos.
Moving village. Country between Beaver creek and the Platte. Cañon. Reach
Fort Lancaster. Fortune bettered. News from the States. Murder. Extraordinary
instances of human tenacity to life. Arrival of Indians. Theft. Chyenne outrage.
Return of Oregon emigrants. "Old Bob," and his adventures. A "Protracted
Meeting," or Indian Medicine-making. Indian oath. Jaunt to the mountains.
Mountain scenery. Camp on Thompson's creek. Wild fruits. Concentration of
valleys. Romantic view. A gem in the mountains. Grand river pass. Salt lakes.
Astonishing scope of vision. The black-tailed deer. Peculiarity in horses.
Remarkable natural fortification. Return. Travelling by guess.
ONE day, on leaving camp in quest of game, I carelessly travelled till near
sundown, without success. The hills, hollows, and ravines which intersected my
way and continually changed its bearings, so completely bewildered me, that, as
night shut down upon the cheerless expanse, I found myself far away from any
suitable camping-place, and alone amid the realms of loneliness. Thus
conditioned, I was forced to submit to circumstances, and accordingly accepted
of such lodgings as nature afforded.
My lonely and dangerous situation, with the thrilling sensations experienced
during the interval, gave birth to the following lines, which, by aid of a rude pencil
formed from a bullet, were next morning traced upon a small scrap of paper. I
submit them to the reader, not that they possess any intrinsic merit, but because
they will enable him to derive some faint idea of the terrific wildness and beauty
of the surrounding scenes.
NIGHT ON THE PRAIRIE.
I.
The sable garb of darkness clothes the land,
And twilight's sickly hue bids day farewell;
The prairie's vast expanse on either hand
Marks solitude's domain. O'er hill and dell,
And wide-extended plain, I cast my eyes,
To view, perchance, some grove or fav'ring stream,
And hie me thitherward while yet the gleam
Of day's fast-failing light bepaints the skies
With tints scarce seen, —for there I'd seek repose,
But for them look in vain; so here, alone,
Wearied and worn, I sit me down and close
My tiresome wanderings, —nor bate to own
The chilling thrill of terror o'er me creeps,
And from my mind all thoughts of slumber keeps!
II.
Oh, Solitude! First-born of Night! 'Tis here
Thy reign is undisputed! Here no noise
Of human feet doth greet thy list'ning ear,
Save chance as mine, or savage want enjoys
His arms at chase or rage at bloody war!
Here haunts the beast of prey. The starved wolfs howl
In ceaseless concert swells! The midnight owl
Joins in his dolesome lay;—the raven's caw
Loud mingles with the panther's yell, —and then
The hoarse-toned bison grunts his bass, and makes
Thy dismal realm more drear to lonely men.
Æolus here his fresh-form'd wind awakes,
And marks its speed unchecked; whose whistling moan
O'er thy domain makes loneliness more lone!
III.
My thoughts, now kindred to the scene, arise
In hurried flight, whose hideous aspects wake,
Full quick, imagination's sleepless eyes,
That conjure up such frightful forms as shake
The boldest hearts with dread. In every herb
Of prouder growth, —whose prongs the sweeping blast
Hath taught to move, —some foe of savage cast
Appears and threatens ill, as if to curb
The onward progress of the god of sleep:
(For here man sees his fellow man, unknown,
As foe; and, arm'd for fight, he minds to keep
The strictest watch, lest, from advantage shown,
He tempt unlucky war.) So hurriedly
I snatch my arms to fight each form I see!
IV.
But, why thus fear? Give place, ye visions dread!
Ye thoughts of boding danger, drearisome,
Cease to oppress! Is not the path I tread
So by Omniscience mark'd, that perils come
Not near, to even hurt a single hair,
Without His wise permit? Are not my days
Securely meted out, and all my ways
So guarded, too, that thronging dangers share
No part in harm's advance or death's progress
Till all are told? And can my vigilance,
Father'd by childish fear, make more or less
The given sum? Cheerly, draw courage thence,
My cowering heart; feel safety here. Give room
To other thoughts, and chase these clouds of gloom!
V.
Thus, banished fear, at reason's bid, I cast
My willing gaze toward heaven. In every star
That forms the sparkling crown of night, though fast
In regions of unbounded space, so far
As scarcely seen by mortal ken, —appears
Some guardian angel, robed in light, to keep
His ceaseless vigils o'er my couch of sleep,
Lest in my slumbering moments danger near
To cut the thread of life, and thus undo
The purposes of God. The silver moon
Sheds forth her radiance unconfined, and through
The desert wild to flower and herb gives boon,
And decks each blade with dewy pearls, and pours
Them on the earth, to cheer my waking hours.
VI.
Nature's vast caravansera, above,
Below, around, on either side, begirt
With midnight's varied splendors, scenes I love,
Becomes enchantment's self, while zephyrs sport
The fragrance of the wild-flowers multiform,
And greet my nostrils with their rich perfume,
To please my senses. Thus my thoughts resume
Their wonted course, and hush the passing storm
Of fear. Alone! Not lonely I. For here
E'en loneliness companion proves to me,
And solitude is company.
My ear Drinks music from these savage sounds; I see
Amusements in these forms; my heart's as strong,
And easy beats, as 'mid a city's throng!
VIl.
To me thrice welcome then, ye prairies wild!
Midnight, and gloom, and solitude, ye please
My restless fancy! Welcome then your child!
For here's my home. And so, with mind at ease,
I will embrace my mother earth, and court
The soothing power of sleep. The clear blue sky
My canopy, the ground my bed, I lie
Encurtain'd by the pale moon-beams, which sport
Beside my lowly couch, and light the dew
With mimic diamonds' glow—while flowers around
My pillow'd head their willing incense strew,
And the sweet dreaming bird anon doth sound
Some isolated note of melody!
Thus chamber'd here, may not kings envy me?
My return to camp the next day served to quiet the apprehensions that had been
experienced on my account during the interim.
This excursion took me some fifteen miles eastward, to the head waters of the
Kansas river. The country in that neighborhood wore a barren aspect, and was
generally sandy and undulating.
l noticed a kind of mineral substance, of a jetty lustrous appearance, which I took
to be black-lead. I also remarked certain indications of gold, but whether this
metal actually exists here I am unable to say; yet true it is, the surface affords
large quantities of "gold blossom," and it is said also, that gold has been found in
these parts.
The region lying upon the head branches of the Kansas river is considered very
dangerous, —it being the war-ground of the Pawnees, Caws, Chyennes, Sioux,
and Arapahos, —and hence comparatively little is known of its character and
resources. It is represented as quite sandy and sterile back from the
watercourses, and in many other places but little better than a desert waste. The
gold story alluded to in the preceding paragraph came to me from various
sources, in the following shape:
Some twenty years since, while the Arapahos were at hostilities with the whites,
a war-party of that tribe advanced against the Pawnees, led on by a noted chief,
called "Whirlwind." Three only of them had guns, and they soon expended their
stock of bullets in shooting small game, there being no buffalo upon the route.
Finally, left without any thing to eat, they became discouraged, and a council was
held to discuss the expediency of relinquishing the expedition.
Having seated themselves upon a small eminence, the question of return was
debated with great earnestness, —a majority being in the affirmative. But the
head chief, "Whirlwind," bringing all his eloquence to bear upon the opposite
side, at last obtained their consent to proceed.
During the conference, several small pieces of a glittering yellow substance were
discovered upon the surface, which proved soft and easily worked into any
shape. From these a supply of bullets was procured, and, resuming their course,
they soon after met the Pawnees, with whom they fought, and were victorious, —
every bullet discharged killing an enemy.
This victory was so signal and complete, that the superstitious warriors attributed
it solely to the medicine-doings of the yellow balls, —three or four of which were
finally buried with the chief at his death. The only white man permitted to see
them, describes them as having been precisely the color of brass, —very soft
and heavy. Admitting that the story is true,54 there are doubtless very rich mines
of gold in this vicinity, that being the only metal assimilating brass in color.
Previous to our leaving Beaver creek, an incident occurred showing the
remarkable tenacity of life peculiar to buffalo.
An old bull appeared in the distance, travelling at a rapid rate almost directly
towards camp. Being in want of a re-supply of fresh meat, I seized my rifle and
advanced to intercept him. Owing to the unfavorable state of the wind, I was
forced to make so long a shot that the ball fell some two feet below the mark, and
struck near the knee-joint of the fore leg, shivering it to pieces.
Still, however, the animal kept on, with scarcely diminished speed, and held me a
chase of three miles or more before I could overtake him to finish the work. At
length he was dispatched; but, on butchering him, I was surprised to find a third
bullet-wound, apparently three or four days old. The ball was full one-half the size
of my own, and, incredible as it may seem, had penetrated the butt of the
buffalo's heart.
I could scarcely believe my own eyes, —yet such was the fact. The creature had
survived a heart-shot for days, and then, with a broken leg, had held me a chase
of three miles.
Our final adventure at this camp, was with a party of Indians. Having discovered
the latter, early one morning, and supposing them Pawnees, we prepared for an
encounter. The objects of our apprehension, mistaking us for the same,
continued maneuvering upon the adjoining hills the entire day, in such a manner
as to lead us to conclude the whole country was filled with Indians.
Toward sundown, after vainly endeavoring to procure an attendant, I armed
myself and proceeded alone to the spot where they had been last seen,
determined to discover, if possible, the nature and extent of the danger that
awaited us. Here, a single warrior advanced to meet me, giving signs of
friendship and of his nation. In answer to the inquiry, why his party had acted so
strangely, he said they had thought us enemies, and were afraid.
He accompanied me to camp, and, soon after his companions came up, but,
instead of the powerful war-party of Pawnees awaiting to slaughter us by night,
as our imaginations had depicted, and their cunning movements led us to infer,
they proved but three Arapaho warriors, three squaws and two children. Our
surprise at this laughable denouement was only equalled by their own.
54
The country adjacent to the head branches of the Kansas river is but little known to the whites, who seldom visit it on
account of its dangerous nature. That valuable minerals are contained in its soil is quite probable, and no doubt they will
be brought to light upon due research.
They announced themselves in search of the Arapaho village, and expressed
much pleasure at meeting with the whites. Our visitors having passed the night
with us, the next morning we yielded to their solicitations, and set out with them
to the village, some eighteen miles distant, in a northwest direction.
About noon we arrived at the place, and found six or seven hundred lodges of
Arapahos, Chyennes, and Sioux, encamped in a large valley skirting a small
affluent of Beaver creek.
The village, being prepared to move, in a few moments succeeding our arrival,
was en route for the Platte river. The spectacle was novel and imposing. Lodge
followed lodge in successive order, —forming vast processions for miles in
length. Squaws, children, horses, and dogs, mingling in promiscuous throng,
covered the landscape in every direction, and gave it the aspect of one dense
mass of life and animation.
Here a troop of gorgeously dressed and gaily painted damsels, all radiant with
smiles and flaunting in conscious beauty, bestriding richly caparisoned horses,
excited the admiration and commanded the homage of gallantry; there a
cavalcade of young warriors, bedaubed with fantastic colors — black, red, white,
blue, or yellow, in strict accordance with savage taste — habited in their nicest
attire, swept proudly along, chanting their war-deeds in measured accents to the
deep-toned drum; and then another band of pompous horsemen scoured the
spreading plain, in eager race to test the speed of their foaming chargers; and,
yet again, a vast army of mounted squaws, armed with the implements for rootdigging, spread far and wide in search of the varied products of the prairie; then,
among the moving mass, passed slowly along the travées, conveying the aged,
infirm, and helpless, screened from the heat of a summer's sun by awnings of
skins, that beshaded their cradled occupants, —while immense trains of packanimals, heavily laden with provisions and camp equipage, as they crowded
amid the jogging multitudes, united to complete the picture of a travelling Indian
village.
Yielding to the request of our new friends, we proceeded with them ten or twelve
miles further and passed the night in their lodge.
Our route from Beaver creek led over a tumulous country, interspersed with
valleys of a rich soil, and prolific in rank vegetation. The side-hills afforded large
quantities of pomme blanc, and the prairies and bottoms a splendid array of
choice floral beauties.
The creeks disclosed wide, sandy beds, often dry and skirted by broad valleys
which were passably well timbered. The principal ridges were not high, but
surmounted by dense pine forests, with pleasant openings, smiling in all the
loveliness of spring.
Notwithstanding the scanty volumes of the streams, the country presents to the
traveller the appearance of being well watered by frequent rains, while ever and
anon a gurgling fountain strikes upon his ear with its soft music.
Stratified rock is usually rare; the only species noticed were limestone and
sandstone. I remarked a great abundance of silex and hornblend, with some
curious specimens of ligneous petrifiactions. The only indication of minerals
observable, was that of iron and coal.
The entire section from Beaver to Cherry creek possesses nearly the same
geological and mineralogical character. Its indigenous productions are such as
are common to the mountain prairies, and are found in equal abundance;— a
remark which will also apply to its game.
As a whole, perhaps two-thirds of it might be cultivated, to some extent, were it
not for unseasonable frosts; and all of it might be turned to good account for
stock-raising.
The next day we bade farewell to our Indian friends, (leaving behind us one of
our number, who chose to accompany them to the Fort,) and again launched
forth upon the broad expanse. Bearing a course west-northwest, about noon of
the second day we struck Cherry creek, some thirty-five or forty miles above its
mouth;— thence, crossing the lofty plateaux, on the west, with two or three
intervening creeks, toward evening of the third day we reached the Platte river at
its exit from the mountains.
Our intention was to enter the mountains and spend a few weeks in deer-hunting;
but, the river proving impassable, on account of high water, we were compelled
to forego that purpose for the present, and accordingly started for Fort Lancaster
to procure a re-supply of ammunition.
Continuing down the Platte, on the third day we reached our destination, and
were kindly received, though humorously rallied upon our way-worn and forlorn
appearance. Nor were we backward to join the laugh, occasionally retorting,
when the jocose current set too strong against us, “Well, what do you know about
war?— You've never been to Texas!"
The 6th of July dated our arrival, —the glorious fourth having been spent in
plodding over a broad prairie, on foot, with rifles upon our shoulders and packs
upon our backs. By comparison, I concluded my fortune had slightly improved
since July 4th of the preceding year, which found me in a cheerless prairie, on
foot, packing my bed, almost naked, without knife or gun, or having had a
mouthful to eat for two days previous.
Capt. Fremont, elsewhere spoken of, had just arrived from the States on an
expedition to Oregon, ordered by the United States Government, and brought
intelligence of an existing armistice between Mexico and Texas. Accompanying
his party was one whom I recognized as an old acquaintance of other lands, the
first and only one I had the pleasure of meeting with during my long sojourn in
the country.
July 11th, witnessed the death of an old mountaineer at Fort Lancaster, who
came to his end from the effects of a pistol wound received in a drunken frolic on
the 4th. The ball entered the back about two inches below the heart, severely
fracturing the vertebrae and nearly severing the spinal marrow. He lived just one
week succeeding the occurrence, but meanwhile suffered more than the agonies
of death. His body below the wound was entirely devoid of feeling or use from the
first, and, as death preyed upon him by piecemeal, he would often implore us
with most piteous and heart-melting appeals kindly to ease his miseries by
hastening his end. The murderer was left at large, and in two or three weeks
subsequent accompanied Capt. Fremont to Oregon.
The above is the most remarkable exhibition of human tenacity to life that ever
came under my personal observation; I have, however, heard of instances far
more extraordinary. The case of Ex-Governor Boggs, of Mo., in '41, who
recovered from the effects of a wound, that not only fractured his scull, but
actually emitted particles of the brain, is doubtless well known; yet another of like
nature, still more wonderful in its details, occurred to an old French trapper,
named Augustine Clermont, with whom I am well acquainted.
Clermont, in an affray with a Spaniard, had been prostrated by a blow that
fractured his scull in the occiput. His antagonist then fell upon him and thrust the
point of a knife into the brain repeatedly, and finally left him for dead.
Soon after, he was found by his friends in this deplorable situation, who, on
perceiving he yet breathed, kindly dressed his wounds, and bestowed upon him
the attention his situation demanded, and in a short time he became perfectly
sound and hearty.
July 13th. The Indian village before spoken of, on its way in quest of buffalo,
visited the Fort, and, as is customary on such occasions, the squaws and
children made themselves busy in appropriating to their own use such little
articles as came within their reach. I was minus a blanket through their
artfulness, and several other individuals suffered equally with myself.
Some six weeks afterward they returned, and again called at the Fort, when,
recognizing my stolen blanket in the possession of a young warrior, I immediately
took it from him. At first he stoutly resisted, and the more so as several hundred
of his tribe were present, —but, all to no purpose; and he at length yielded, as he
saw me on the point of enforcing my claims to it in a more feeling way, such as
would doubtless have endangered his own personal safety.
I remained at Fort Lancaster for two months or more; and the several incidents
which occurred in the interim may be thus briefly summed up:
The first in order was an outrage of the Chyennes, in cruelly murdering the young
man with whom I had passed a portion of the preceding winter upon Vasques'
creek
The next was the appearance of a small party of emigrants, on their return to the
States, —having become displeased with the management of the company then
en route for Oregon.
A third was the arrival of one of the four men who had left for the Cimarone at the
first disbanding of the Texan volunteers, and were subsequently taken prisoners
by the Mexicans.
After being incarcerated at Santa Fe for two or three weeks, they were finally
liberated, with the exception of one, who had died in the interval. Toward the last
of their imprisonment, they were treated kindly, owing to the exemplary conduct
of the Texans, as spoken of elsewhere.
The fellow thus introduced, responding to the name of "Old Bob," made himself
quite conspicuous by his subsequent conduct. The gentleman in charge at Fort
Lancaster, pitying his deplorable condition, kindly afforded him employment at a
liberal compensation, and Old Bob set to work faithfully. In the course of twelve
or fifteen days, however, he improved the opportunity of stealing a rifle and
ammunition, with which he absconded and set his face for the mountains.
All that he now lacked to complete his equipment was a good horse, which
deficiency seemed luckily made up by the discovery of one recently strayed from
the Indians. "I must have him," said Bob. So, carelessly dropping his rifle and
pack, he commenced a fruitless effort to capture the erratic steed.
For a while his success seemed almost certain; but, after a tedious trial for
several hours, he was finally obliged to relinquish the attempt, and turned to
recover his rifle and pack. Alas, for Old Bob! here an unlooked-for calamity
presented itself—they were not to be found!
Vainly it was that he searched diligently for four successive days, enduring in the
mean time all the pangs of hunger and the goadings of a guilty conscience — his
scrutiny gave not the slightest indication of their whereabouts. "Truly,' the way of
transgressors is hard!"' thought Bob, as with reluctance he abandoned all,55 and
despairingly set his face to go — he knew not whither! — half-starved and halfnaked, with neither pistol, gun, nor butcher-knife, for his defence in a dangerous
country; nor one morsel to renew his strength by day, nor even a solitary rag to
screen him from the chill air of night!
55
Two weeks subsequently, while on a hunting excursion, the person to whom the stolen rifle belonged found it, with all
the property of the thief;- a most remarkable circumstance, as the country had been filled with strolling Indians during the
interval
The next place at which Old Bob showed himself was at an Indian lodge, thither
driven by the impulse of hunger—having starved for more than five successive
days. Here he procured a temporary supply from the compassionate inmates,
who also kindly gave him a robe.
Nothing further was heard of him for eight or ten days, and the generally
conceded opinion was, that he had either starved to death or had been killed by
savages, when an express from the Arkansas brought intelligence of having
encountered him by the way.
The luckless wight, after being without eating for five or six more days, had been
robbed by the Apache Indians of everything about him except a pair of ragged
pantaloons, and barely escaped from them with his life! The express furnished
him with a quantity of provisions, a pistol, robe, and ammunition, when, bidding
him farewell, the two resumed their respective courses.
From this date, his story is briefly told. Pursuing his way toward the Arkansas, he
soon after met a small party of Mexican traders, and, creeping upon their
encampment at night, helped himself to a couple of horses. “It's a straight road
that has no turns," muttered Old Bob, as he mounted one of them and returned to
the Platte, where he bartered the other for a rifle and ammunition.
For a brief interval he seemed to prosper in his iniquity, but erelong the tables
were again turned upon him, and he experienced the literal fulfillment of that
other declaration of holy writ which says, "The wicked shall not go unpunished."
Elated by his recent success, he again started for the Arkansas, with the intent of
renewing his depredations, accompanied by two other adventurers whom he had
persuaded to become the partners of his criminal enterprise; but, before
proceeding far, he fell in with the same company of Mexican traders from whom
he had stolen the horses. They immediately recognized him and the animal he
rode, and took possession of the latter. As for Old Bob, notwithstanding his
protestations of innocence and stout resistance, they stripped him of gun, pistol,
and ammunition —gave him a severe flogging, and again turned him adrift upon
the prairie, destitute of everything except the baseness of his own heart!
"Well, Bob," said one of his comrades; "this business appears not so profitable,
after all; though you, doubtless, have become quite warmed in its pursuit. For my
own part I shall quit it before I begin, and return to the States."
"And I, too;" chimed in the other.
"The fact is," replied Bob, "this country is getting rather too hot for me, and I'll
bear you company! What d'ye say to that?" "Just as you like," responded his two
companions; "that is, provided you wont attempt the grab game on us."
"Come, boys; now that's too bad! Oh, you may rest assured I will never repay a
kindness with ingratitude, neither will I abuse the confidence of friends.”
Thus arranged, the three started on their way. Coming upon a camp of hunters, a
few miles below Bent's Fort, they concluded to remain a short time in order to
procure a supply of meat for their journey. Here our slippery customer borrowed
a horse and rifle of his comrade, pretendedly for a buffalo hunt, and under a most
solemn pledge of returning them; however, on finding himself again armed and
mounted, he was not slow to improve the opportunity of bidding an abrupt
farewell to the unsuspecting dupe, and resumed his course toward the States.
How he eventually succeeded through this last shift, I am unable to say; yet, the
brief story of his adventures thus far is sufficient to prove, that iniquity
sometimes, even in this life, receives a severe reward.
Toward the last of August the Arapahos and Chyennes held a grand
convocation, in the vicinity of Fort Lancaster, for the purpose of medicine-making;
or, in other words, paying their united devotions to the Great Spirit. The gathering
might with propriety have been termed a "Protracted Meeting," as it continued for
three successive days and nights, exclusive of the time occupied in preliminary
arrangements.
Besides the two tribes above named, a large number of Sioux, Cumanches,
Blackfeet, and Riccarees, were present, swelling the concourse to nearly a
thousand lodges.
The regular participants in the ceremonies of the occasion had previously
prepared themselves by a fast of three days, attended with frequent washings
and purifications. A large lodge had been erected in the form of an amphitheatre,
as described upon a former page, with a pole in its centre pointing to the zenith,
near the top of which was affixed the head of a buffalo. Here the throng
assembled, with up-turned eyes, encircling it around in solemn dance,
accompanied by a low musical chant, as they addressed the "Big Medicine". This
strange worship was maintained day and night, without intermission, —the
devotees meanwhile neither eating nor drinking. So exhausted were they, that at
times, they fell from effects of weakness and fatigue.
Some of their performances savored much of Hindoo origin. Those wishing to be
thought particularly good, attested their piety by cutting themselves in various
places, —and, yet others, by drawing after them the heads of buffalo fastened
upon hooks inserted in their own flesh, As the exercises were about to close, an
offering of blankets, robes, beads, tobacco, &c., was made to the Good Spirit,
after which the crowd dispersed.
Their object appeared to be a threefold one, viz: to do penance for sin, to thank
the Author of Good for past favors, and to implore a continuance of His
beneficence for the future.
The head around which they danced was evidently not the object of their
veneration, but was placed there simply to remind them that, as the buffalo
constituted their principal sustenance, the Good Being should be more especially
adored on its account.
A number of articles having disappeared from the Fort rather mysteriously,
suspicion was fastened upon an Indian for appropriating them in the usual way.
He was accordingly charged with the theft, but strongly affirmed his innocence,
and, to place the matter beyond doubt, took an oath in attestation of his words.
The ceremony observed was as follows:
Taking his bow, he selected the stoutest of his arrows, and, holding it in his right
hand, pointed successively to the sky, the ground, and his own heart; then,
kissing the bow, he again protested his innocence. This being considered
satisfactory, he was honorably acquitted of the charge.
An Indian is rarely known either to violate his oath or to swear falsely, as in such
a case he would be looked upon as being irrecoverably exposed to the
immediate wrath of heaven and the vengeance of man. The import of this
ceremony may be expressed in these words: "Thou who dwellest in the air and
earth, receive from me this arrow, and with this bow plunge it to my heart, if I do
not speak the truth!" I leave the reader to judge in regard to the binding nature of
its obligations.
Sept. 25th. Having purchased a horse for the purpose, I proceeded to the
mountains on a hunting excursion, where, unattended by any one, I had a further
opportunity of testing the varied sweets of solitude.
My course lay directly west some eight miles to Soublet's creek, a considerable
affluent of the Platte, heading at the base of Long's Peak, thence continuing up
its right hand branch, I penetrated into the mountains, on the second day, a
distance of several miles and camped. One of the passes to Grand river, which is
generally thought much the nearest route, leads up this branch.
The interval from the 27th to the 30th was devoted to exploration, and I ascended
the main chain of the mountains left of Long's Peak. The usual height of this
ridge is about ten thousand feet, upon which the stern chambers of deathless
winter are repeatedly exposed to the eye.
The mountains and creeks were well timbered, —the former with pine, cedar,
and balsam, and the latter with cottonwood, aspen, and box-elder. Along the
watercourses and intermingled with the rude array of hills and rocks, were many
beautiful valleys, prairillons, and plateaux, all clothed with rank vegetation; and,
indeed, the soil of the entire section appeared tolerably fertile.
The prevailing rock of this region is feldsphatic granite, gneiss, micaceous
sandstone, and slate. These different classifications (here strown about in
confused piles, and there again towering in massive walls of immense altitude)
presented an impressively grand appearance, and united to render the scenery
one of varied sublimity and magnificence.
Sept. 30th. In the afternoon I raised camp and proceeded for ten or twelve miles,
through a broad opening between two mountain ridges, bearing a northwesterly
direction, to a large valley skirting a tributary of Thompson's creek, where, finding
an abundance of deer, I passed the interval till my return to the Fort.
Upon all the principal streams were large quantities of cherries and plums, which
proved quite acceptable. The cherry (cerasus virginiana) indigenous to this
country is quite similar in appearance to our common wild cherry, though it is
generally larger and more pleasantly tasted. It grows upon a small bush, and
yields in lavish profusion.
Three different varieties of plums are common to these parts, but are so similar in
most respects to the wild species of that fruit found in our Southern and Western
States, that I shall not take the trouble to describe them.
The locality of my encampment presented numerous and varied attractions. It
seemed, indeed, like a concentration of beautiful lateral valleys, intersected by
meandering watercourses, ridged by lofty ledges of precipitous rock, and
hemmed in upon the west by vast piles of mountains climbing beyond the clouds,
and upon the north, south, and east, by sharp lines of hills that skirted the prairie;
while occasional openings, like gateways, pointed to the far-spreading domains
of silence and loneliness.
Easterly a wall of red sandstone and slate extended for miles northward and
southward, whose counterscarp spread to view a broad and gentle declivity,
decked with pines and luxuriant herbage, at the foot of which a lake of several
miles in circumference occupies the centre of a basin-like valley, bounded in
every direction by verdant hills, that smile upon the bright gem embosomed
among them.
This valley is five or six miles in diameter, and possesses a soil well adapted to
cultivation. It also affords every variety of game, while the lake is completely
crowded with geese, brants, ducks, and gulls, to an extent seldom witnessed.
What a charming retreat for some one of the world-hating literati! He might here
hold daily converse with himself, Nature, and his God, far removed from the
annoyance of man.
Four miles further north the traveller is brought to one of the main branches of
Thompson's creek, up which is another pass to the waters of Grand river.
This stream traces its way through a fertile valley, two or three miles broad,
stretching from the prairie almost to the base of Long's Peak, —a distance of
nearly thirty miles. The valley is well timbered and admirably adapted to stockraising.
The hills and mountains, enclosing it upon each side are also studded with
forests of pine and cedar, while the entire section is stored with all of the usual
varieties of game known to contiguous regions, in addition to its rich treasures of
fruits, flowers and grasses.
In surveying, from a commanding summit, the vast prairie skirting the mountain
range upon the east, several small lakes are discernible at different points. The
water of these is usually brackish, and their shores, whitened by constant saline
efflorescence, glisten in the sun's rays, and present a striking contrast with the
surrounding verdure.
The mind is perfectly astounded at the immense expanse thus brought within the
scope of vision. In a clear day, objects favorably situated no larger than an ox or
a horse, may be seen at a distance of twenty miles, and the timber of creeks
even for sixty or seventy miles. Here the beholder may scale beyond the clouds
far heavenward, and gaze upon a world at his feet!
My hunting was confined principally to black-tailed deer. These animals are much
larger than others of the genus cervi, and their flesh is of a superior flavor. Their
habits are similar to those of the wild sheep, leading them constantly to seek the
regions of spring; in the winter, descending to the valleys, and in the summer,
keeping pace with the melting snows upon the mountain-sides.
The extremity of their vertebræ is shorter than that of other species of the deer
family, and has upon it a small cluster of coarse, jetty hair, from which the animal
derives its name. Their hair is usually of a dark brown color, coarse and brittle,
with the exception of a strip of dirty white upon the hams. Their ears are very
large and long, —quite similar to those of a mule; in other respects, however,
they conform to the peculiarities of the common deer.
I was quite successful with my rifle, and, by degrees, became much attached to
the versatile life of lordly independence consociate with the loneliness of my
situation. My horse, too, seemed to have forgotten all the allurements of former
scenes, and presumed at no time to wander many yards from camp, —a
peculiarity in this noble animal I have frequently had occasion to remark. When
thus alone, a horse will substitute the society of man for that of his own species,
and, as if conscious of surrounding danger, will seldom leave the vicinity of a
camp for a long distance.
Oct. 29th, I started for the Fort. It had been my intention to visit a remarkable
natural fortification upon one of the affluents of Crow creek, but, ammunition
failing, I was reluctantly compelled to abandon it.
This fortress is said to be complete in nearly all its parts, and capable of
garrisoning a thousand men, yet even one or two hundred might defend it from
the repeated assaults of vast armies, and, with a small amount of labor, might
render it impregnable.
Its walls are huge masses of solid rock, one or two hundred feet in height, —
apparently strata planted on end, —enclosing an area of several acres,
unenterable except at limited openings. According to the glowing descriptions of
it given by hunters, it must be an object well worthy the attention of the curious.
At night, I encamped at the base of the mountains, upon the right hand fork of
Soublet's creek, and the next day reached the Fort.
The last ten or twelve miles of the route (leading over an unbroken prairie) were
travelled during a heavy fall of snow, which rendered the air so dark it was
impossible to see a dozen yards in advance. But what added still more to the
uncertainty of my course was the frequent variance of the wind, changing the
position of the grass, and otherwise increasing the constant liability to misjudge.
Notwithstanding these accumulated difficulties, I struck the Platte river only half a
mile below the in tended point.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
Newspapers. False reports. Singular grasses. Sale of skins at Fort Lancaster. An
excursion. An incident. Camp. Huge horns. Leopard. Panther. Slaughter of
eagles. Dressing skins. The hunter's camp. Vasques' creek. The weather. Return
of comrade to Fort. Sweets of solitude. Exposure in a snow-storm. The cañon of
S. Fork Platte. A ridge. A valley. Beautiful locality. Choice site for a settlement.
Flowers in February. A hunting incident. Fate of the premature flowers.
Adventure with a sheep. Discovered by Indians. A pleasant meeting. Camp at
Crystal creek. Thoughts of home. Resolve on going. Commence journey. The
caravan. "Big Timber." Country to the "Crossing." Big Salt Bottom. Flowers. A
stranger of other lands. Difficulty with Indians. "Friday." Tedious travelling. No
timber. Detention. Country. Pawnee Fork. Mountain and Spanish companies,
Spy Buck, the Shawnee war-chief. Pawnee Fork.—Cure for a rattlesnake's bite.
Further detention. Sketch of adjacent country. Pawnee Rocks. En route with
Friday. Musquetoes. Observations. Friday as a hunter.
THE different trading companies had just arrived from the States, bringing their
winter stock of goods, and, what was still more acceptable to me, a bundle of
newspapers. Every item of intelligence contained in the latter was greedily
devoured, but what afforded me no little amusement was the palpable falsity and
ignorance their editors exhibited in relation to matters of this country.
For instance, in giving the particulars of the murder of Charvis, a Mexican trader,
which occurred in March, 1843, the crime was represented as having been
committed near the Little Arkansas, by a party of Texans on their way to join Col.
Warfield, who was then encamped in that vicinity with forty men! whereas, at that
time Col. Warfield had only nine men with him, and was at least three hundred
miles from the Little Arkansas; and further, the murderers of Charvis were not
Texans!
Subsequently, an article in another paper came under my observation referring to
a statement made to the National Institute, by an officer of the United States
Dragoons, purporting to give a description of the buffalo grass common to the
grand prairie. This grass was represented as growing six or eight inches high,
and as being abundant in the mountains, particularly of New Mexico, where (if I
rightly remember) it was said it remained green the entire winter. The truth of the
matter is, buffalo grass very rarely exceeds two and never attains four inches in
height, —is not found in the mountains at all, so far as my observation has
extended, and is green only about one month in the year!
By the way, speaking of grass reminds me of a remarkable characteristic in some
varieties indigenous to this country, and which will afford matter of speculation to
the inquiring mind. The blade, killed by the frost of winter, is resuscitated in the
spring and gradually becomes green from the root up, without casting its stubble
or emitting new shoots!
The skins obtained during my hunt found a ready sale, at prices ranging from one
to three dollars each, according their to quality and condition. These articles were
in great demand for the manufacture of clothing among the Fort hands, and are
considered far preferable to cloth.
Nov. 10th. I again returned to the mountains, heading a small party that insisted
upon bearing me company. Late in the afternoon of the second day we made
camp in a valley, behind the first ridge of hills, upon the right hand fork of
Soublet's creek.
An incident en route afforded some little amusement at the time. We had left the
Fort without provisions, and I accordingly proceeded a short distance in advance
for the purpose of killing antelope. Riding slowly on, I noticed a badger not far
ahead, and dismounted to shoot him. But the creature becoming alarmed sprang
for his hole, and I hastened to stop him. This I effected by tightly grasping his tail
as he was in the very act of entering his burrow. In the chase my rifle had
accidentally discharged itself, and here commenced a struggle between me and
the badger, —I to retain my hold while I unbelted my pistol to dispatch him, and
he to enforce his liberty. At length I succeeded, and a choice supper was made
from his carcase, which, to all intents, was the fattest thing I ever saw.
We remained encamped at the place above named for some six weeks, and
devoted the interval principally to hunting sheep, of which there were vast
numbers in the neighborhood. In attestation of the monstrous horns borne by
some of them, I need only mention the simple fact of my having killed three
sheep while here whose horns measured nineteen inches in circumference, and
nearly three feet in length.
One of our party encountered a strange looking animal in his excursions, which,
from his description, must have been of the leopard family. This circumstance is
the more remarkable, as leopards are rarely found except in southern latitudes.
However, they are not unfrequently met with in some parts of the Cumanche
country, and their skins furnish to the natives a favorite material for arrow-cases.
The only beast of prey other than wolves, encountered during the entire winter,
was a solitary panther, whose extreme shyness defied all attempts to approach
within shooting distance.
My more lengthy rambles brought me to a large valley immured by lateral hills,
that had been occupied a short time previous by a party of Indians, for the
purpose of eagle-catching. As proof of their success, I counted the bodies of
thirty-six eagles, lying in piles at their recent camp. These consisted of the only
two varieties found in the mountains, viz: the American and bald eagle. The wingfeathers of these birds command a ready sale among the Indians, by whom they
are highly prized for the empluming of arrows.
The usual mode of dressing skins, prevalent in this country among both Indians
and whites, is very simple in its details and is easily practised.
It consists in removing all the fleshy particles from the pelt, and divesting it of a
thin viscid substance upon the exterior, known as the " grain;" then, after
permitting it to dry, it is thoroughly soaked in a liquid decoction formed from the
brains of the animal and water, when it is stoutly rubbed with the hands in order
to open its pores and admit the mollient properties of the fluid, —this done, the
task is completed by alternate rubbings and distensions until it is completely dry
and soft.
In this manner a skin may be dressed in a very short time, and, on application of
smoke, will not become hardened from any subsequent contact with water.
The winter-camp of a hunter of the Rocky Mountains would doubtless prove an
object of interest to the unsophisticated. It is usually located in some spot
sheltered by hills or rocks, for the double purpose of securing the full warmth of
the sun's rays, and screening it from the notice of strolling Indians that may
happen in its vicinity. Within a convenient proximity to it stands some grove, from
which an abundance of dry fuel is procurable when needed; and equally close
the ripplings of a watercourse salute the ear with their music.
His shantee faces a huge fire, and is formed of skins carefully extended over an
arched frame-work of slender poles, which are bent in the form of a semicircle
and kept to their places by inserting their extremities in the ground. Near this is
his "graining block," planted aslope, for the ease of the operative in preparing his
skins for the finishing process in the art of dressing; and not far removed is a
stout frame, contrived from four pieces of timber, so tied together as to leave a
square of sufficient dimensions for the required purpose, in which, perchance, a
skin is stretched to its fullest extension, and the hardy mountaineer is busily
engaged in rubbing it with a rough stone or "scraper," to fit it for the manufacture
of clothing.
Facing his shantee upon the opposite side of the fire, a pole is reared upon
crotches five or six feet high, across which reposes a choice selection of the
dainties of his range, to wit: the "side ribs," shoulders, heads, and "rump-cuts" of
deer and sheep, or the "dèpouille" and "fleeces" of buffalo. The camp-fire finds
busy employ in fitting for the demands of appetite such dainty bits of hissing
roasts as en appolas may grace its sides, while, at brief intervals, the hearty
attendant, enchaired upon the head of a mountain sheep, (whose huge horns
furnish legs and arms for the convenience of sitting,) partakes of his tempting
lunch.
Carefully hung in some fitting place, are seen his "riding" and "pack saddles,"
with his halters, "cavraces," " larrietts," "apishamores," and all the needful
materiel for camp and travelling service; and, adjoining him at no great distance,
his animals are allowed to graze, or, if suitable nourishment of other kind be
lacking, are fed from the bark of cottonwood trees levelled for that propose; and,
leaning close at hand, his rifle awaits his use, and by it his powder-horn, bulletpouch, and tomahawk.
Thus conditioned are these lordly rangers in their mountain home, nor own that
any creature of human kind can possibly enjoy life better than they.
The events of each day varied so little in their nature, that a minute notice of
them would prove uninteresting to the general reader. Suffice it to say, we
remained here till Jan. 1st, 1844, and then removed to Vasques creek, some
thirty-five miles further south, where we encamped in the valley that formed my
hunting ground of the previous winter.
The weather continued cold, and several falls of snow had occurred, covering the
prairies to the depth of six or seven inches, and the mountains to the depth of
many feet, though it rarely remained in the warm valleys and upon the sunny
side-hills to exceed three successive hours.
Our camp, as a general thing, was quite favorably situated in regard to
temperature; the day time frequently affording a spring-like warmth, though the
nights were usually cold.
A peculiar species of grass among the hills retained its verdancy the entire
season, as did also another variety in the valleys. Our horses and mules
continued to thrive and even fatten upon the nourishing herbage thus afforded by
these secret chambers of spring.
Soon after our removal to Vasques' creek, three Indians, from a neighboring
village, paid us a visit, who brought vague information of the approximity of the
Sioux, which so excited the apprehension of my campmates relative to their own
safety and that of their animals, that they were not satisfied to remain here any
longer, and accordingly left for the Fort. Wishing to ascertain the true situation
and locality of such suspicious neighbors, I proceeded to the Indian village for
that purpose. The report proved unfounded; but yet my extra-prudential
comrades were unwilling to compromise their own safety by a further hunt, and
argued stoutly to persuade me to accompany them beyond the reach of danger.
In the morning, however, as all were ready to resume their journey, I mounted my
horse, and, bidding them adieu, with my lead pack-animal returned to the
mountains, resolved on a further test of the sweets of loneliness.
Remaining at our former camp for a week or more, I enjoying full scope for my
trusty rifle among the vast quantities of deer which showed themselves in every
direction; and, in one of my many excursions, penetrated to the head valley of
Vasques' creek;— being belated on my return by killing a very fat deer, I was
forced to pass the night among the mountains, without even a robe or a blanket
to screen me from the severities of a pitiless snow-storm that fell in the mean
time. Strange as it may seem, I experienced not the slightest ill effect in
consequence.
On removing from my old hunting grounds, I halted at two or three different
points still further south, upon small affluents of the Platte, and in the course of
twenty-five days encamped a few miles below the exit of the main stream from
the mountains, in an opening made by the forced passage of a large creek into
the prairie through a sharp line of hills.
The scenery in the vicinity of this camp was romantic, wild, and beautiful. The
ridge thus bisected was about four hundred feet in height, and opposed to the
creek vast mural cliffs of limestone and sandstone that formed a gateway nearly
three hundred yards wide. It ranged parallel with the mountains, two miles or
more removed from them, presenting to the prairie a gentle escarpment
ornamented with scattering pines and clothed at intervals with rank grasses of
the preceding year's growth.
On ascending to its summit you stand at the verge of a steep precipice, two
hundred or more feet in descent, —as if the earth, opened by internal
convulsions, had forced the right valve of its fissure to an unnatural position, and
thus formed the elevation beneath you.
This ridge extends for many miles, and overlooks a beautiful valley of remarkable
fertility, fifteen miles in length by three in breadth, and intersected by numerous
streams, more or less timbered, that find their way from the mountain side. The
valley is divided by a continuous ridge that runs parallel with its length, which is
much the same in character with, though more diminutive in size than the one
previously described.
The huge masses of red granitic sandstone that tower to a surprising altitude,
isolated and in almost every conceivable form and shape, add vastly to the
wildness of the place. The rock is quite friable and constantly yielding to the
action of the weather, while the soil of the valley is of a ruddy color and gravelly
nature as will be readily inferred from the above fact.
This superfice is fertilized, not only from the debris of its rocks, but by the
immense beds of gypsum contained in its hill-sides, which are incessantly
decomposing to enhance the general fecundity. Vegetation, of course, must
attain a rank growth in such a soil, and, in favored spots, it remains green the
entire year.
All the different varieties of wild fruits and game indigenous to the mountains are
found here in great abundance. Among the timber of the creek bottom, I noticed
hazel-bushes, old acquaintances of the States, which looked like messengers
from a far off country, and reminded me of other scenes.
There are few localities in the vicinity of the mountains better situated for a small
settlement, or possessed of greater agricultural advantages than this.
The prairie at the base of the first range of hills is quite saline in it character; and
several small lakes of brackish water, and well stocked with almost numberless
water-fowl, are seen at different points, the incrustations upon whose shores
assume a snowy whiteness. Notwithstanding this, it possesses a good soil and is
admirably adapted to the growth of stock.
Feb. 26th. The fresh grass upon the hill-sides has assumed a thrifty appearance.
Insects have begun to quit their winter retreats, and, commingling their shrill
notes with the music of birds, hail the approaching spring. I was delighted to find
in my rambles a cluster of wild-flowers in full bloom, shedding their fragrance to
the breeze from a sweet, sunny soot among the hills, and I sat for a time to
admire its new-born loveliness.
One of my horses, having been for some time wasting under the effects of a
disease peculiar to those animals, died this afternoon, —a loss which subjects
me to no little inconvenience. It was a noble beast, and cost me sixty dollars only
four months since.
Feb. 28th. A light snow which fell yesterday night prevented me from leaving
camp, but having shouldered my rifle early this morning, I ranged along the
valley. The snow had entirely disappeared. Three buffalo bulls, alarmed at my
approach, rushed down a steep hill-side, quartering towards me, at the height of
their speed. Running to intercept them, l shot as they passed, prostrating one at
the instant. So great was the impetuosity of his headway, the carcase was
thrown to the very base of the descent, a distance of about three hundred yards!
The interest awakened by the picture of loveliness that greeted me two days
previous, led again to the sweet spot among the rough hill-sides, —but, how
changed! The cruel frost had done his death-work — the "flowers had withered
and the beauty thereof had fallen away." A tear to their memory, despite my
efforts to restrain it, stole its way to the ground. Such was the fate of the first
flower of spring! What a prolific theme for a melancholy fancy to brood upon, and,
in its musings, catch the inspirations of poesy!
March 4th. The dull monotony of four days past has afforded nothing worthy of
note. Spring is making rapid advances. To-day, however, an incident occurred,
which, with suitable forethought, might have been turned to good account. Soon
after leaving camp I encountered a band of sheep, and, despairing of a near
approach, shot one of its number at a distance of nearly three hundred and fifty
yards. The animal immediately fell, having been stunned by a neck wound,
("creased,") but recovered as I reached it, barely affording me time to grasp one
of its legs.
Here commenced a struggle, —the sheep to get free, and I to retain my hold. In
the energy of its efforts I was dragged over the rocks for some two hundred
yards, when, having caught its fore-leg, I succeeded in throwing it, and
unthinkingly despatched it with my butcher-knife. I might have preserved it alive,
as a rare and valuable addition to some zoological collection. My not having done
so, I regretted the more, as it was a female and would have soon produced
another of its species.
March 7th. Having discovered a large band of deer in the prairie towards the
Platte, early this morning I started to approach them. Being within the required
distance, I was preparing to shoot, when, on glancing to the left, a party of
horsemen met my view, advancing at full gallop. Their bare heads and fluttering
robes at once announced them Indians.
Here was a dilemma! My first thought was to retire to the creek and there await
them, under cover of the trees, —but this would convey an impression of
cowardice, a thing which uniformly receives ill treatment at the hands of Indians,
while bravery commands their respect. I therefore resolved to stand my ground
and fight it out, if necessary, let the consequences be what they would. So, after
examining the condition of my firearms and making the suitable arrangements for
an expected reencounter, I calmly awaited their approach. My design was to
shoot the foremost when within proper distance, (first forbidding their advance,)
then, having discharged my pistols at the two next, if not previously killed, to
close in with the remainder, butcher-knife in hand. From hostile savages I
expected no quarter, and was therefore determined to sell my life as dearly as
possible.
A nearer approach, however, changed my gloomy apprehensions into a transport
of pleasure, as I recognized two old hunters from Fort Lancaster at their head, —
the first of human beings, white or Indian, that I had seen for two months. Their
gratification scarcely surpassed my own, they having long since supposed me
murdered by prowling savages.
Having camped the day previous about three miles distant with the party
accompanying them, they were now in quest of buffalo. However, as it
threatened to be unpleasant weather, an invitation to my camp was gladly
accepted, where the choice stores my larder afforded, were discussed with
epicurean gusto.
Yielding to their persuasions, in the afternoon I bid adieu to my lovely retreat and
proceeded with them to their encampment upon the opposite side of the Platte,
near the mouth of Crystal creek.
Here a small party of whites from the Fort were occupied in building a boat, with
which to descend the river. A Mexican woman, from Taos, the wife of an engagé,
honored the scene with her presence, as did also three squaws and two Indians.
Commodious shantees had been erected for the accommodation of the men,
which, together with a huge fire and a proportionate pile of meat, imparted an air
of comfort to everything.
Remaining here for a week or two, I then proceeded to the Fort, a distance of
about forty miles. The different trading companies were already en route for the
States, having left several days previous. The thoughts of other lands, and more
congenial associations, were now revived in all their vividness. They filled my
mind by day, and crowded my dreams by night. Eight years had already
intervened since the view of a distant home and much-loved childhood scenes
had last greeted me, nearly three of which had been passed amid the dangers
and vicissitudes of prairie and mountain life. Yet, I was at a loss to decide what to
do. The object of my excursion had not been satisfactorily accomplished. I
wished to visit the Pacific and familiarize myself more perfectly with several parts
of Oregon and California; this would yet require a year, or even more.
However, the subject now uppermost in my thoughts influenced the decision,
and, bidding a present adieu to other plans, I made prompt arrangements for
returning to the States. These were soon completed, and on the 17th of March I
commenced my journey.
With the intermediate country from the Platte to Bent's Fort on the Arkansas the
reader is already familiar; and, as few incidents worthy of note occurred between
these two points, I shall content myself with a mere passing notice and hasten
with becoming brevity to a conclusion of the task in hand.
The fourth day succeeding my departure I overtook a division of the caravan of
mountain traders, numbering ten men and three waggons, with which I
proceeded to the Big Timber of the Arkansas, distant about two hundred miles
southeast from Fort Lancaster.
The country at this place, in the immediate vicinity of the river, is fertile and well
timbered, but the prairies are slightly undulating, arid, and generally
unproductive. The prevailing rock is exhibited in abrupt cliffs and bold
escarpments from the hill-sides and banks of watercourses, and consists of
various conglomerates, with limestone and sandstone; the latter being very finegrained and admirably suited to the preparing of edge tools. I noticed indications
of coal in some parts, and the usual quantity of saline efflorescences, particularly
upon the south side of the river.
On the 10th of April, the caravan being augmented by an accession of three
other waggons and several men, we again resumed our journey, and, on the
28th inst., struck the Santa Fe trail near the Crossing of the Arkansas, one
hundred and ten miles below the Big Timber.
The geological character of the prairie and the river bottoms is much the same as
that previously described, with the exception of a general scarcity of rock; though
to the southward it is very sterile in appearance, and a continuous chain of hills,
that in some places are mere knobs of naked sand entirely destitute of every
semblance of vegetation, plainly points out the cheerless Ilanos of the Great
American Desert.
Below the Big Timber the rank growths of absinthe, which have been heretofore
so prevalent, almost entirely disappear.
The river gradually expands to the width of nearly two miles, forming several
small islands, and scatters its waters in numerous channels, over beds of
quicksand, so shallow and variable as to preclude the possibility of successful
navigation.
Timber becomes very scarce, —so much so, that in many places it is difficult to
obtain a sufficiency even for the camp-fires of travellers. The bottoms are usually
broad and fertile, but possess a highly saline character.
One of the above, known as the Big Salt Bottom, is some forty miles in length
and four or five miles broad. It contains frequent streams and pools of brackish
water, with spots in which vegetation entirely gives place to thick coatings of
mineral salts.
Among the prairie hills I occasionally noticed extensive spreads completely
covered with a singular species of blue flower in full bloom, which imparted to the
otherwise forbidding prospect an air of loveliness and beauty; but, in glancing
over the far-reaching landscape, I looked in vain for the floral attractions peculiar
to mountain regions.
A few miles above the Crossing, an incident occurred which renewedly aroused
my recollection of other lards. This was the appearance of a fine-looking coon,
the first I had seen since leaving the States. These animals are strangers to the
mountains, and were never before known to penetrate thus far westward.
In passing a village of Arapahos, near the Salt Bottom, we had considerable
difficulty with them on account of ten or fifteen domesticated buffalo connected
with the caravan. The Indians were highly exasperated, and accused the whites
of stealing their buffalo. They even armed themselves to fight us, and were
deterred from their purpose only by a large present of tobacco, but still
threatened vengeance in case of a renewal of the offence.
Soon after this we were joined by a young Arapaho Indian, named Friday, who
was desirous of visiting the States. He had formerly lived in St. Louis, where he
had acquired a knowledge of the English language, and still maintains a
reputation for honesty, intelligence, and sobriety. Hereafter I will have occasion to
speak of him more particularly, in connection with his previous history.
Resuming our course, we bore leftward from the river and struck into the high
prairie. Late rains had rendered the ground muddy, and travel ling consequently
became slow and tedious.
The weather continued wet and disagreeable, in addition to which the
unprecedented size and velocity of the streams caused us frequent detention.
The trail, for four or five days, led over a number of timberless water courses,
known as "the coon creeks," which subjected us to great inconvenience in the
item of fuel, as neither tree nor stick could be procured for cooking purposes, and
bois de bache, the substitute of buffalo countries had become so thoroughly
saturated with water it was almost impossible to ignite it.
On the 23d of April, having arrived at Pawnee Fork, we were obliged to remain
some four weeks before a ford could be effected, —but the dense bands of
buffalo that thronged the vicinity abated somewhat the annoyance of delay.
The country, between the "'Crossing" and Pawnee Fork, varies but little in its
general character from that previously described, and exhibits a favorable
contrast to the forbidding wastes of naked sand upon the opposite side of the
Arkansas. Although not absolutely sterile, it is not rich and suffers more from lack
of moisture than any actual defect of soil. Its entire destitution of timber will
prevent it from ever becoming inhabited to any great extent.
Rock of all kinds is very scarce, and almost the only specimens prevalent are
found in the pebbles and diminutive fragments which lie scattered over the
prairie.
During our stay we were joined by Messrs. Bent and St. Vrain, and three or four
Spanish companies, which increased our caravan to fifty or more waggons and
nearly one hundred men.
With the former of the companies was a Chyenne chief, (Slim Face,) on his way
to Washington to solicit the U.S. Government to adopt some effectual means for
the suppression of the sale of ardent spirits among his people. (A very laudable
object, indeed.)
Three or four Mexican ladies and several children (being the family of one of the
Spanish traders, from Chihuahua) were also included with the new accession;
but the most noted personage among the whole was Old Spy Buck, the famous
Shawnee war-chief, who had distinguished himself as the leader of a small band
of his countrymen in connection with Kirker and the Americans employed by the
governments of Santa Fe and Chihuahua to fight the Apache and Navijo Indians.
The old chieftain was on his return home, venerable in age and covered with
scars, which gave indubitable evidence of the place he had occupied in the hour
of danger. The history of his exploits would fill a volume far more interesting in its
details than those of the proudest heroes of fiction.
Pawnee Fork afforded an inexhaustible supply of cat-fish, which were caught in
great numbers by our party. I know of no other stream near, upon the Atlantic
side of the mountains, where fish are found in any quantity or size worth naming.
This creek heads at the eastern extremity of the " Divide," in the vicinity of the
Smoky Hill branch of the Kansas, and by pursuing a southern course for about
one hundred and fifty miles, finds its discharge in the Arkansas. It is heavily
timbered, and is known among the Indians as Otter creek, on account of the
great number of those animals found upon it. The valley which skirts it is several
miles broad, and very fertile, presenting a large extent of excellent land, well
adapted to cultivation.
While here, I became acquainted with the salutary properties of gunpowder in an
interesting case. My horse, having been bitten by a rattlesnake, was cured by the
following simple process: The wound being slightly creased immediately above
and below, a small portion of powder was burnt upon it for four or five times in
succession, which completely destroyed the effects of the poison. I am informed
by those who have repeatedly tried this remedy, that it has never been known to
fail when promptly applied.
On the 21st of May, we finally effected a crossing, and by the 24th had reached
Walnut creek, twenty miles distant, where high water again opposed a present
barrier to further progress. The bottoms were so completely flooded that we were
forced to occupy an adjoining eminence for a camp.
This stream is heavily timbered, and derives its name from the abundance of
black walnut found along its banks. Its valley is very similar to that of Pawnee
Fork as regards size and fertility, while the country between the two is evidently
possessed of a good soil.
About twelve miles below Walnut creek, near the trail, is a huge and isolated
mass of coarse sandstone, known as the Pawnee Rocks. This is a noted
landmark, and, like Independence Rock elsewhere spoken of, is covered with the
names of passers by, en route to and from the mountains and Mexican States.
Here was a confused medley of cognomens, —English, French, Spanish,
German, Irish, and Scotch, —all entered upon the register of fancied immortality;
and here, too, as I glanced over the strange catalogue, a number of our company
were busily engaged in carving their own; but remembering a former resolution, I
declined the honor of imitating their example.
June 16th. More than three weeks have intervened since our arrival at Walnut
creek, and still there is no present possibility of proceeding with the waggons.
This continued delay is becoming extremely irksome, notwithstanding the
countless thousands of buffalo which afford us an inexhaustible feast of "fat
things." Time is precious and I must go on; and there are several who would do
likewise, but hesitate, —while frightful visions of Pawnees and Osages disturb
their midnight dreams and fluster their waking thoughts. Friday, the Arapaho,
asks to accompany me; our arrangements are completed, and to-morrow we
leave.
June 17th. About noon, bidding adieu to vexatious hindrances, we started, and,
after a short ride, forded the Arkansas above the mouth of Walnut creek, —
thence, following the course of that river upon its opposite bank, we halted for the
night in a broad sandy bottom, four or five miles below.
The musquetoes here proved so troublesome to ourselves and animals, we were
compelled to defend the former by means of a dense smoke and protect the
latter with a close envelope of robes. The next morning we re-crossed the
Arkansas, and, striking the waggon road soon after near Plum Butte, continued
our way to Cow creek.
A few miles above this point the regular trail leaves the Arkansas upon the right,
and, following a northwesterly course for about three hundred and fifty miles,
strikes the States at Independence, Mo.
The interval between Walnut and Cow creeks is generally sandy and somewhat
tumulous, but is different in many respects from any other section previously
noticed. The hills, adjacent to the river and near the trail, are coniform and not
unfrequently naked piles of dry sand, while the hollows and depressions among
them afford a humid soil, coated with rank vegetation.
Cow creek is a small stream with very steep, clayey banks, and is sparsely
timbered. Its bottom is about four miles broad and of variable fertility, —doubtless
susceptible of cultivation.
On resuming our course we leave the buffalo region, a transition for which we are
now fully prepared. Aware that this must shortly occur, I had sent Friday in
advance with my rifle, who very soon prostrated three fine bulls, affording us a
stock of most excellent beef from which to make our selections.
Few Indians or whites can compete with Friday as a buffalo-hunter either in the
use of the bow or rifle. I have seen him kill five of these animals at a single
chase, and am informed that he has not unfrequently exceeded that number.
Conscious skill, in this respect, is the occasion of some little pride to its
possessor.
But it is not in hunting exploits alone that he excels; his deeds of war equally
command the respect and admiration of his tribe, among whom he is known as
the "Arapaho American." A brief sketch of his early life I have reserved for the
succeeding chapter, which the reader may rely upon as strictly true.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
The Arapaho American, a sketch of real life. Tenets of the mountain Indians in
reference to a future state of rewards and punishment. The "water bull." Country
between Cow creek and Council Grove. Inviting locality for settlement. Sudden
rise of water. Separate routes. Dangerous travelling. Osage village. Osages, and
all about them. Arrival at Van Buren, Arkansas. Concluding remarks
EARLY in the year 1828, ere peace had been established between the whites
and the Arapahos, a large village of that tribe made its temporary encampment
upon the waters of the Cimarone, in the vicinity of the Santa Fe trail.
An opportunity so favorable for amusement was not suffered long to pass
unimproved by the younger ones, and group after group of merry boys and girls
were soon bescattered over the adjoining prairie, engaged in their innocent
sports, —for of play all children possess an intuitive fondness, be they white, red,
or black.
Each successive day yielded its tribute to the routine of pleasure, as, true to the
teachings of childish philosophy, they seized the enjoyments of the present, nor
thought or cared for the future, —and thus far, it may be said, some men are but
overgrown boys.
Impelled by the restless spirit of their years, on an occasion, several frolicksome
lads had wandered to an unusual distance from camp, and passed most of the
day in a fruitless effort to catch prairie-dogs.
At length, wearied with a bootless task, they set their faces homeward. Scarcely
had they started, however, when the village made its appearance, bearing
directly towards them; whereupon the happy band, seating themselves at the
point of an eminence, awaited its approach, and soon mingled with their
relatives, one after another, as they were disclosed by the passing throng.
In a short time a little boy, some six years old, alone remained — watching with
eager impatience the appearance of his father's lodge; but still it came not. The
crowd had passed and a solitary old man brought up the rear. On seeing the lone
stripling, he enquired the cause of his delay.
"My parents come not, and I await them," said the little fellow.
"Haste you," replied the man; "they have gone towards the sun-rising for a day's
travel. Run quick, that you may join them."
The lad promptly followed the old man's direction, and set off in pursuit. His route
led over a long reach of dry sand-prairie, eastward of the Cimarone, which was
entirely destitute of water, and soon after crossing the creek a heavy wind
obscured the trail, in addition to which the thick clouds of dust, with fast-closing
night and insufferable thirst, compelled him to turn again to the Cimarone.
Another attempt to reach the village the day following was unsuccessful, and
each repeated effort proved equally unavailing.
At length, weakened by hunger and suffering, he laid himself down to die, in a
grass plat by the creek side.
Seven days of continued fasting which followed, left him so debilitated he could
scarcely stand. His mind began to wander; he thought himself a dweller of the
Spirit Land and a ranger of the hunting ground of happy souls.
His bewildered vision pictured the joyous chase, bounding along the celestial
plains. Strange voices greeted his ear, and sounds broke upon the stillness of
solitude. He gazes around, and sights still stranger close in upon him, —not
visionary, but real.
"It must be so," said he. "Here are the horses for me to ride, and there is the
game for me to chase. But, what singular buffalo! How long their horns, and how
white!— What strange colors, too!— white, red, black, and mixed! And, who are
they?— Ah! the pale-faces! They approach! What do they here?— I cannot
escape them!" Thereupon he found himself in the firm grasp of two white men,
who cut short his soliloquy by bearing him to their camp.
His fancy, though illusive in its inception, had ended in sober reality. The strange
voices greeting his ear were those of his captors, who had just encamped near
him; the horses and singular buffalo exciting his wonder, were the horses and
cattle of a caravan of Santa Fe traders; and the pale-faces were two of the
company, by the names of Fitzpatrick and Soublet, by whom he was taken.
They were on their return to the States, and, noticing a strange object in the
vicinity of camp soon after their noon halt, approached to learn its character and
found the little sufferer as above related.
He had never before seen the whites, and, knowing them only from the
representations of his people, they were associated in his boyish fancy with all
that was hateful and wicked. But, instead of the cruel death he had supposed
would be his certain allotment at their hands, they administered to his wants and
plied him with kindnesses. Everything about him was so strange, he could
scarcely be convinced it was not a picture of the imagination — that he was not
yet dreaming of the happy country, or actually initiated into its delightful
mysteries.
From the date of this event he was ushered into a new state of existence, and
soon acquired the language and habits of the whites. Taken to St. Louis, he
remained there for some five years, and received a partial education during the
interval. So complete was the transformation, he even forgot the name and
language of his nation, and became an adept in the customs of civilized life.
About the year 1832, Capt. Grant succeeded in effecting a treaty with the
Arapahos, and pending its negotiation mention was made of a boy, said to have
been lost upon the Cimarone several years previous, who was supposed to have
fallen into the hands of a trading company, and for whose ransom a large
number of horses was offered.
It is needless to say our hero was the subject of this request, and, in order to
conciliate their good will and place the new-formed treaty upon a permanent
basis, word was forwarded to his benefactor, Fitzpatrick, informing him of the
circumstance.
Friday, for this was the name by which the Indian youth had now become known,
on hearing the proposal of his relatives, steadily refused compliance, declaring
the whites to be his only relatives, and that with them he would live and die.
Subsequently, however, he was persuaded to accompany his guardian to the
mountains, expecting shortly to revisit the States. Here his father and mother
came forward to claim him as their long-lost son.
But the lapse of seven years had served to efface all the recollections of early
childhood. Parents and friends were alike strangers to him; he refused to own
them, and recoiled from their advances. Their language grated upon his ear in a
confused jargon of unknown sounds. His mother wept from mingled emotions of
grief and joy, while his father and brothers pressed their mouths in unfeigned
astonishment. Still his obstinacy was unyielding, and the united entreaties of
relatives failed to exert upon him the least influence.
At length, the arguments and advice of the fur traders induced him to visit the
Arapahos village, where he was received with distinguished honor by his
relatives and nation. Every one hastened to pay him respect, — while feast
succeeded feast, and council succeeded council, to welcome his return, and the
little boy, who, seven years before — lost amid the cheerless sands of the
American Desert, and weakened by hunger and suffering had lain down to die
upon the bank of the Cimarone, now found himself suddenly made famous as the
"Little Chief" of his tribe, —the "Arapaho American."
Honor, whose potent spell exerts its influence upon older heads and more
enlightened minds, gradually reconciled him to the rude mode of life his destiny
seemed to mark out, and he again became identified with the associations of
former years.
Still, however, he retains an undiminished attachment to the whites, and
continues to merit and command their esteem. His character, for honesty,
integrity, and sobriety, has as yet stood unimpeached. A chief by birth, he might
assert a more prominent station among his people; but he declines it, with the
noble resolve:— " Until by my own achievements I have earned that honor, I shall
never consent to become a chief; for certainly, then my people will listen to me!"
The hero of the above sketch is now on his way to visit his friends in St Louis for
the second time, and is at present my only travelling companion. As such I find
him agreeable and interesting. I am indebted to him for much valuable
information relative to the habits and peculiarities of his own and various other
Indian tribes, while his vast fund of ready anecdotes and amusing stories serves
to beguile the weariness of camp hours.
The religious peculiarities of the mountain tribes furnished us a theme for
frequent conversation, inasmuch as their sentiments with regard to a future
existence are strangely interesting in detail. Most of them are firm believers in the
immortality of the soul, as well as the condition of rewards and punishments after
death — though some accredit the Hindoo notions of metamorphosis or
metempsychosis, while yet a very few look for annihilation.
The majority, however, aver that the good, at death, after a long and tedious
journey, reach a happy country, abundant in everything the heart can desire, or
thought conceive of; where, free from pain and sickness, and removed from
every ill, they shall bask forever in the sunshine of perfect beatitude.
To aid in this long journey, horses are occasionally sacrificed for the feeble and
decrepit, (more generally squaws and aged warriors,) that, by mounting their
disembodied chargers, the spirits of the deceased may gain a speedy entrance
within its confines and taste the joys of their eternal home.
Of those adhering to different opinions, some believe in the transmission of souls
from body to body through successive ages; and others, that they become the
spirits of either men or animals, according to the virtues or demerits of the
departed.
With regard to the final allotment of the wicked, their general theology consigns
them to an interminable wandering over a desert waste, without purpose or rest,
or even one moment's respite from their miseries, and subject to all the bitter
pangs of hunger, thirst, and nakedness; and tormented with the sudden and
intolerable extremities of heat and cold. The Scripturian here will not fail to
recognize an obscure delineation of the world of woe, as portrayed in the sacred
writings.
The ideas of some few, on the other hand, transform these condemned spirits
into wild beasts or reptiles, but more frequently into prairie-dogs, that, by
penance and suffering through a long succession of years, they may atone for
previous misdeeds.
Many incidents of adventure related by Friday would doubtless interest the
general reader, but space precludes their insertion. However, I cannot refuse
place to the following, as affording to the curious a more special matter of
speculation.
"On my return from an expedition against the Utahs," said he, "in crossing the
mountain chain south of Long's Peak, I went in advance of the main party.
"My course led over one of the highest points of the range, whose summit
disclosed a level surface of considerable extent. While passing leisurely along,
the crowing of a mountain fowl, a short distance to the right, caught my ear.
(There are fowls in some parts of the mountains similar to those raised by the
whites, —but they are very wild and shy.) Following the sound, I was led to the
verge of a small lake, with steep banks of rock, and sat down by it, in hopes of
discovering the object of my curiosity.
“While here, my attention was directed to a strange movement in the lake-waters,
accompanied by a loud noise and turmoil; soon after which a large creature
arose from the middle and swam to the shore, where be stood upon a rock in full
view. His looks frightened me. In size he was equal to the largest buffalo, and
much like one of those animals in form; he was black, with a singularly shaped
head, and had tusks instead of horns, which curved downward.
"He looked so terrible I hurried away as quick as possible, and related my
adventure on rejoining the party. The old men laughed at my expressions of
wonder — asserting that they had before seen such creatures in the high
mountain-lakes, and called them “water bulls."'
Resuming our course, we travelled by easy stages for five succeeding days,
which brought us to Council Grove, a noted place of rendezvous for Santa Fe
companies.
The intervening country from Cow creek exhibits an entire change in its
geological character. The landscape is gently undulating, and furrowed by
frequent watercourses. Timber is becoming more abundant. The soil appears
humid, and presents an air of general fertility. The grasses also differ in their
species and assume a lusty growth.
The sand-hills which had before skirted the Arkansas, as the traveller advances,
lose their naked deformity amid dense groves of timber, and finally disappear in
the distance.
There is throughout a marked scarcity of game common to the grand prairies,
and everything denotes an approach to the frontiers of civilization.
Council Grove is a stream of considerable magnitude, tributary to the Osage
river, and, by the Santa Fe trail, is one hundred and forty-four miles west of
Independence. Its bottoms are broad, fertile, and well timbered with heavy
forests of oak, walnut maple, and most other varieties of wood indigenous to the
States.
The country in its vicinity is highly interesting to the agriculturist, and presents a
soil remarkable for its fertility, inviting the hand of industry to a rich reward.
Here, too, all the varied products of the farmer might find a ready cash market,
from the numerous mountain and Spanish companies that constantly pass and
re-pass, and, doubtlessly, at commanding prices. This locality, in fact, being
situated upon the very verge of the grand prairie, affords a most eligible point for
a settlement, and will doubtless soon acquire a merited importance as the place
of general out-fit and supply for the western and southwestern trade.
Through the agency of Friday I became acquainted with the existence of a
vegetable found in these parts, which is known as the prairie-potato. This attains
a size almost equalling our common potato. It is of a rough, knotty appearance,
somewhat oviform, and when cooked is dry and sweet tasted. It is found
generally in the banks of watercourses, and produces a low ground-vine, not
dissimilar to a species of that vegetable usual to warm climates.
We were detained here for five or six days, by a continuous rain which raised the
creek to an extraordinary height, —overflowing its banks and completely flooding
its extensive bottoms. So sudden was the rise that we were compelled to move
camp three times in the course of an hour, and were finally driven to an adjoining
hill.
Improving the first interval of fair weather presenting itself, I bade adieu to my
Indian companion and renewed my journey alone, as our routes led in different
directions, his for Independence, Mo., and mine for Van Buren, Ark. Following
the course of the creek by its right bank for some twenty miles, I then struck over
to the Neosho, and, continuing on the fourth day subsequent I reached the
Osage village.
The country passed in travelling this distance, presented much excellent land.
The creek valleys were broad and heavily timbered, and the adjoining prairies
undulating and clothed with luxuriant vegetation. The streams were so swollen I
was forced to swim most of them, which rendered my progress one continued
scene of toilsome and perilous adventure.
My stay at the Osage village was prolonged for two days, during which time I was
kindly entertained by a chief who served as my host.
The Osages number between four and five thousand souls, and inhabit the
section of country bordering upon the Neosho river. Their territory is well
timbered, abundantly watered, and remarkably fertile.
In dress and appearance these Indians assimilate the Pawnees and Caws; but
their dwellings are neater and more spacious, being constructed of water-flags
fastened to frame-works of poles, so ingeniously thatched and tightly interwoven
as to prevent the ingress of either wind or rain.
This tribe are beginning to make advances in civilization, and devote some little
attention to agriculture. A farmer and blacksmith are furnished them by the U.S.
Government, while the philanthropic efforts of the American Board of Missions
are directed to their amelioration with considerable success.
On resuming my course, a branch of the Neosho which intercepted it proved
unfordable, and its passage was otherwise rendered particularly dangerous on
account of the swiftness of its current. However, my landlord, on seeing my
determination to cross at all hazards, procured two large pieces of raw hide,
which were firmly sewn together in boat shape and held to their proper position
by slender boughs; these he conveyed to the stream, and desired me to put my
baggage into them, remarking that there was "plenty room" for myself, too.
Following his directions, the frail bark was soon launched and towed to the
opposite shore by a son of the old man, who swam across for that purpose, while
his brother, leading my mule after him, plunged into the current, and in a few
moments everything was safely landed.
To reward this generous act I presented the old chief with a blanket, and bade
him remember that "Good acts pay a sure tribute to a good heart, for they
nourish its possessor with happy thoughts; very often, too, they yield a twofold
return by the gratitude of the one upon whom such acts are bestowed; and then,
again, sometimes the practiser is more than blessed by the acceptance of such
presents as the grateful one may chance to offer. So, let my brother always do
good, and the Good Spirit will own him as a subject well worthy of his special
blessing."
Bidding the friendly natives adieu, I mounted my mule and hurried onward. My
course led through the territory occupied by a division of the Shawnees, and that
settled by the Quapaws and Cherokees. These tribes are partially civilized; but
the Cherokees are farther advanced in refinement than any other Indian nation I
am acquainted with. In fact, they are better educated, better livers, and a better
people than their immediate white neighbors upon the frontiers of Arkansas and
Missouri.
Late in the afternoon of July 4th I reached Van Buren, my point of destination,
happy again to mingle amid scenes and associations from which I had been so
long separated; and here I would take leave of the reader, provided I have been
so honored as to command his interest and attention thus far. If the preceding
pages have added aught to his stock of useful information, or served to while
away a leisure hour agreeably, the object which primarily influenced their
publication will have been accomplished, if contrariwise, it remains for me to beg
pardon for the trespass I have undesignedly committed upon his time and
patience.