LESLIE FAY, LI & FUNG IN DEAL/2 THE WORLD OF INDITEX/10
Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 30, 2002 Vol. 184, No. 21 $1.75
WWDTUESDAY
PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODEL: LAURA TEXTER/NY MODELS; HAIR: DANIEL GARZA FOR MELANGE; MAKEUP: ANNIE ING FOR SALLY HARBOR; STYLED BY BROOKE MAGNAGHI
Ready-to-Wear/Textiles
Bohemian Rhapsody
NEW YORK — After studying philosophy for a master’s degree at NYU, Julia Neaman embarked
on a career in fashion. The result is Julia, a full collection of jackets, skirts, tops and dresses
with Victorian and military influences. Her Lolita-esque pieces caught the fancy of Barneys New
York, where the label has been carried since its inception in fall 2001. “We’re really happy with
the collection,” says Julie Gilhart, vice president and fashion director of the store. “It has a
distinctive vintage and romantic feeling.” Neaman’s special details, she adds, set the line apart.
Here, Julia’s cotton top and peasant skirt; earrings by Yoni Z, cotton wrap by Phelgye at Tibet
Kailash and satin ballet slippers by Capezio. For more resort looks, see pages 4 and 5.
Charge Pushes Hilfiger Deep Into the Red; Stroll Steps Down
By Vicki M. Young
NEW YORK — Women’s wear is making
Tommy run — and it has big plans in
plus sizes and misses’.
Accounting-related charges
pushed Tommy Hilfiger’s first-
quarter results $438.8 million into
the red, but signs of gross-margin
improvement helped the firm
outperform Wall Street’s
expectations and push its stock up 9
percent Monday.
The sportswear company also
announced that longtime co-chairman
and director Lawrence Stroll has
resigned to pursue other interests.
For the three months ended June
See Women’s, Page 3
WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 30, 2002
2
Fashion Issues Continue Climb
By Evan Clark
NEW YORK — Buying just may
be coming back into fashion.
Apparel retailers and manufacturers were part of the markets’ stampede Monday, even
though Wal-Mart and Target reported below-plan sales for last
week. The Dow Jones Industrial
Average, posting the third-largest
point gain in its history, shot up
447.49 points, or 5.4 percent, to
8.711.88. Last Wednesday the
Dow jumped 488.95 points, or 6.4
percent. Since last Tuesday’s
close of 7,702.34, the Blue Chips
have rebounded 13.1 percent.
Still, the index is off 5.7 percent
so far this month.
The Standard & Poor’s retail
index advanced 12.84 points, or 4.6
percent, to end the day at 289.78.
Specialty stores posted the
most impressive gains, outshining
the overall markets and other retailers. Those seeing more robust
advances in their share prices included Urban Outfitters charging
up, $3.53, or 13.8 percent, to
$29.10; Ann Taylor, $2.75, or 11.2
percent, to $27.30; Burlington Coat
Factory, $2.11, or 11.3 percent, to
$20.81; Chico’s, $3.59, or 11.1 percent, to $36.09; Pacific Sunwear,
$1.81, or 9.5 percent, to $20.90;
Gap, $1.05, or 8.6 percent, to
$13.25; Buckle, $1.89, or 8.1 percent, to $25.24; Talbots, $2.31, or
7.8 percent, to $31.82; American
Eagle, $1.31, or 7.5 percent, to
$18.76; and Abercrombie & Fitch,
$1.70, or 7.1 percent, to $25.60.
Department stores brightening during the week’s first trading session included Nordstrom,
up $1.44, or 7.8 percent, to $19.85;
Saks, 75 cents, or 7 percent, to
$11.42; Dillard’s $1.66, or 7 percent, to $25.41; May Co., $1.85, or
6.3 percent, to $31.11; and J.C.
Penney, $1.07, or 6.1 percent, to
$18.62. In the discount world,
shares of Target climbed $2.29, or
6.9 percent, to $35.29, while WalMart saw a $1.35, or 2.8 percent,
increase, to close at $49.53.
Vendors seeing the strongest
gains in the price of their shares
were LVMH, up 92 cents, or 11.3
percent, to $9.10; Coach, $2.82,
or 12.9 percent, to $24.72; Jones
Apparel, $2.26, or 7.1 percent, to
$34.26; and Polo Ralph Lauren,
$1, or 5 percent, to $20.90.
The S&P 500 jumped 46.12
points, or 5.4 percent, to 898.96,
while the Nasdaq pushed ahead
73.13 points, or 5.8 percent, to
1,335.25. European financial markets were also strong Monday,
posting across-the-board increases. Shares in the UK FTSE 100
jumped a collective 4.6 percent, or
Continued on page 7
Watch Woes Hit Bulgari Shares
By Amanda Kaiser
MILAN — Many luxury stocks
have been having a tough time
of late, but Bulgari seems to be
especially hard hit.
Once a high-flying market star
with sought-after multiples,
Bulgari has hit a stall. Slumping
demand for watches, compounded by Bulgari’s reliance on flashy,
fashion-driven collections —
which have shorter shelf life than
those of its competitors — have
also sliced into sales at the family
jeweler, some analysts said.
“It looks like Bulgari is lagging
the rest,” said Melanie Flouquet,
an analyst with JPMorgan. “They
have more stock in the pipeline
at third-party retailers.”
Unsold watches could mean a
disappointing 2002 for the company. Chief executive Francesco
Trapani said it is reasonable to
expect net profit growth of 10 to
11 percent, falling short of some
analysts’ projections of almost 20
percent over 2001 net profit of
$69 million. Trapani said revenue this year should advance 5
percent on 2001’s $775.6 million.
(Dollar figures have been converted from the euro at current
exchange rates.)
A poor showing in watches
contributed to Bulgari’s worsethan-expected first-quarter results. The company’s watch sales
plunged 29 percent, compared to
a slide of 15.6 percent for lowerpriced Gucci-brand watches.
Watch sales, which made up
34 percent of revenue in the
first quarter, pushed overall volume down 5 percent to $167 million and net profit down 60 percent to $9.1 million.
“The watch market, compared with the past, is in a bit of
a crisis,” acknowledged Trapani.
Back in the days of the free-
spending Internet boom, “there
were people who loved watches
and came into the store and
bought six or seven at a time.
These people are not there anymore,” he said.
Bulgari shares have lost more
than half of their value over the
past year and are reaching new
lows on concerns about the
watch business, along with eurodollar parity worries and fears
that Bulgari will slip out of
Milan’s blue-chip stock index,
the MIB30, come September.
The stock market recalculates
the 30 biggest companies on the
Milan Bourse in terms of market
capitalization twice a year.
Bulgari has suffered more
than some other competitors because its watch collection is tootrend driven, some analysts said.
“They have to replace style on a
regular basis,” as one put it.
Continued on page 9
Leslie Fay, Li & Fung Strike Deal
By Joshua Greene
NEW YORK — Yet another dramatic chapter is being written in
the storied history of the 55year-old Leslie Fay Co.
Looking to revitalize itself
under its new executive team,
Leslie Fay has signed an exclusive sourcing deal with global
trading giant Li & Fung (Trading)
INTRODUCING
Ltd., while it prepares for a
spring relaunch of its signature
sportswear line and a fall 2003
revival of its Outlander label.
With a new chief executive
officer at the helm since March,
Leslie Fay is plotting a return to
the Seventh Avenue spotlight.
Over the past few months, ceo W.
John Short — aided by president and chief merchandising
DIRECTION
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and merging with
Fall 2003 Collections
August 6, 7 & 8, 2002 | 9am to 6:00pm
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INPRINTS NY,
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401 7th Avenue (adjacent to hotel)
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officer Linda Larsen German
and chairman John Pomerantz
— has reorganized the newly
private company’s operations
and divisions, shifted executives
and finalized plans to relaunch
hibernating brands.
In a group interview at the
firm’s offices at 1412 Broadway
here, the three executives said
retailer’s low inventory levels
coupled with the current state
of the economy make for an appropriate time to remain cautious, as well as for the rest of
the year. But Short assured that
the company’s prudence is not
permanent. Now is the time to
set people up liking the product,
he said, and the company will
catch up on sales down the road.
Leslie Fay’s volume bottomed out at $125 million after
it emerged from a four-year stint
in Chapter 11 bankruptcy in
1997. It has grown to an industry
estimate of $212 million today,
but has a long way to go from an
almost $850 million peak during
the early Nineties. But Pomerantz
and Leslie Fay survived its infamous accounting scandal that
rocked the company in 1993, and
the affable chairman remains
Continued on page 6
WWDTUESDAY
Ready-to-Wear/Textiles
GENERAL
4
10
2
8
16
FASHION: Resort’s bare sundresses cast a romantic spell from dawn to
dusk, in cotton or silk prints and solids, trimmed in ribbons, ruffles or lace.
Spain’s Inditex, which owns Zara and five other specialty chains, plans to
open 275 stores worldwide this year and launch a home line next year.
RTW: Leslie Fay has signed an exclusive sourcing deal with trading giant Li
& Fung, while setting plans to relaunch its signature sportswear line.
Diversification was a key theme among vendors at last week’s Yarn Fair
International in New York, which attracted more foreign exhibitors.
EYE: Nina Griscom makes a grand entrance at the Watermill Center
benefit...eyeing Malick Sidibé’s photos...postcard from Cap d’Antibes.
Obituaries ..................................................................................................9
Classified Advertisements ..................................................................14-15
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In Brief
ELLEN TRACY UPDATE: Is Liz Claiborne Inc. the frontrunner to buy Ellen Tracy? According to sources, negotiations are
continuing for Claiborne to buy the privately held bridge
sportswear firm headed by Herb Gallen, and a deal could be
imminent. “We don’t comment on r umors,” said a Liz
Claiborne spokeswoman. Gallen couldn’t be reached for comment. Sources said Claiborne’s Dana Buchman division and
Ellen Tracy would certainly give the firm a one-two punch in
the bridge sportswear arena.
●
● BEAUTY PILL: The European Commission cleared Swiss Food
group Nestle SA’s business partnership with French cosmetics
giant L’Oréal to develop a line of “cosmeceuticals,” dietary supplements for hair, nail and beauty care. As reported, L’Oréal and
Nestle are to form a new company called Laboratoires Inneov,
based in France, to create and market the products globally next
year. Avon entered the cosmeceuticals category in May 2001,
joining such manufacturers as Aveda.
Corrections
David Au remains international communication director at
Céline. The company is seeking a Paris-based public relations
manager, a position previously held by Blandine Viry, who has
left the company and who reported to Au. These points were
misstated in a story on page 5, Monday.
● ● ●
The retail workers’ union in Germany is Ver.di, which launched
a two-day strike at several dozen Wal-Mart stores in that country
on Friday and Saturday. The union was attempting to get WalMart to join the German Employer’s Federation, so employees
would be covered by all aspects of the union’s salary negotiations with the German retail industry. The information was misstated in a story that ran on page 28, Monday.
● ● ●
A story on page 8, July 25, incorrectly reported that In Style will
be down about 8 percent in September, with between 560 and
565 pages of ads. For September, the magazine actually has 360
pages of ads, a drop of 8.9 percent from last year’s 395 ad pages.
WWDStock Market Index for July 29
Apparel Mfg.: 171.34
Retailers: 260.44
Textiles: 13.61
7.27
8.76
0.26
Department Stores
Off-Pricers
Discounters
Specialty Stores
217.34
330.06
330.73
113.05
11.25
18.18
9.16
1.01
Index base of 100 is keyed to closing prices of Dec. 31, 1993.
Continued from page one
30, income before the cumulative effect of a change in accounting principle and a onetime deferred tax charge was
$2.6 million, or 3 cents a diluted
share, compared with $9 million, or 10 cents, in the same
year-ago quarter. Excluding the
accounting change, analysts had
expected a break-even performance by Tommy. Including the
change in accounting for goodwill and intangible assets and
the noncash tax charge, the
company lost $438.8 million, or
$4.88 a share, in the quarter.
A substantial improvement in
gross margins, which rose 194
basis points to 44.6 percent,
improved the quarter’s profile
dramatically and offset declines
in its men’s wear business,
which is now smaller than its
women’s wear wholesaling operation. Tommy’s stock closed at
$13.30, up $1.10, in New York
Joel Horowitz, chief executive officer, said during a conference call with analysts that the
company will be paying about $6
million to $7 million more in
taxes because of an increase in
New Jersey’s state tax. In spite
of the increase, the company is
still projecting earnings per
share of 61 cents for the second
quarter ending on Sept. 30. Fullyear guidance was upped to
$1.67, 3 cents above earlier estimates, to reflect higher than
expected first-quarter earnings
over the earlier estimate.
According to Lamer, “Tommy’s
guidance of $1.67, including the
N.J. tax hit, is both cautious and
conservative and does not
account for any improvement in
men’s wear. Men’s wear wholesale sales were down 21.9 percent, in line with expectations. As
long as Tommy plans that part of
the business to be down, and
gross margin improvement stays
Tommy had a very good quarter, with
“improvement
on their gross margins. I
am encouraged that the gross margins
will continue to improve.
”
— David Lamer, Ferris, Baker Watts
Stock Exchange trading Monday.
The accounting change, the
result of Statement of Financial
Accounting Standards No. 142,
affects how the company amortizes goodwill or intangible assets
having indefinite lives. The
impairment of goodwill in the
quarter was $430 million, or $4.78
per share. The deferred tax liability, also relating to the accounting
change, totaled $11.4 million for
the quarter. The quarter’s results
also reflect an expected seasonal
operating loss for the quarter for
the Tommy Hilfiger Europe operations, which the fashion firm
acquired on July 5, 2001.
Lehman Brothers analyst Robert Drbul said that the charge was
in line with expectations and is
comparable to what other fashion
firms have been doing to adjust to
the new accounting protocol.
While the analyst said that the
charge was for a number of different items, including trademarks,
one financial source specifically
pointed to the 1998 Pepe Jeans
acquisition and its goodwill
implications.
Despite a double-digit dip in
its men’s wear business, sales in
the quarter were up 3 percent to
$366.3 million from $355.7 million last year.
David Lamer, an analyst at Ferris, Baker Watts, said, “Tommy had
a very good quarter, with improvement on their gross margins. I am
encouraged that the gross margins
will continue to improve another
250 to 350 basis points over the
next three quarters.”
The analyst said that the
quarter was a good one for the
firm, which was busy “tightly
controlling its top line to control
its inventory, which in turn is
boosting its bottom-line results.”
Also contributing to the gross
margin increase, according to
Lehman’s Drbul, was the significant reduction in the amount of
goods sold in the off-price channels in the United States.
on track, the $1.67 assumes that
the men’s sector will remain
challenging at wholesale.”
Horowitz said during the call
that wholesale revenues in the
misses and juniors business
increased in the quarter by 28
percent to $107 million from
$83.4 million, while men’s revenues dropped 21.9 percent to
$100.8 million from $129 million.
Men’s wear wholesale categories
contribute 28 percent to the
company’s total revenues, analysts said. Sales in children’s
wear were up 3 percent to $58.8
million from $57 million.
Licensing revenue was down
6.9 percent to $13.1 million from
$14 million due to consolidation
and the acquisition of Tommy
Europe. In retail, revenue was
up 20 percent to $86.7 million
from $72.3 million. At the end of
June 30, the total store count
including Tommy Europe stores
was 172, consisting of 111 outlet
stores and 61 specialty licensing
sites. Comparable-store sales at
outlet company-owned stores
declined in the mid-single digits,
but margins were slightly better
due to more full-priced selling
and leaner inventory.
According to the ceo, the
addition of TH Woman, its plussize line, contributed significantly in the quarter. “In plus
sizes, we continue to expand our
footprints. The initial strategy
when we entered this business a
year ago was to establish ourself
as a denim resource. We continue to expand our offerings to
include sports. In the fall [we
will be in] more than 700 doors
compared with 250 doors when
we launched a year ago.”
Horowitz said that the company will grow the misses business by increasing the sportswear element and introducing
an activewear component. “This
includes the creation of lifestyle
shops in approximately 120
select doors where we will mer-
chandise our comprehensive
offering of denim, sportswear
and active product,” Horowitz
noted. “Approximately half of
these shops will be updated with
new fixturing to display the
newest assortment of merchandise and product, which will
reach the floors in early August.”
As for juniors, the ceo said that
starting with the back-to-school
season the company will introduce a new jean delivery every
month that will update a denim
wash or fit for the customer.
However, if the misses and
juniors categories were bright
spots at retail, men’s wear was
Tommy’s albatross in the quarter.
Horowitz disclosed, “The
men’s sportswear business continues to be challenging, and
largely promotion-driven. In
conjunction with the category
weakness, we have experienced
our own product issues in the
spring-summer season.” He
noted that the company took
aggressive measures to clear
inventory and get the sales floor
ready for fall product offerings.
The ceo quipped, “I never
thought I’d see the day when
men’s wear has a higher markdown rate than women’s wear, and
here we are and that’s the reality.”
Horowitz was optimistic about
the company’s future, but not
necessarily as positive about the
retail climate on a near-term
basis. “While the economic environment is quite challenging, can
we foresee a continuation of the
highly promotional retail climate? We expect the momentum
in our women’s businesses to continue, and we are encouraged by
some recent positive trends in
men’s jeans and children’s wear.
We are eager to see the results of
our initiatives and the redesign
of our men’s sportswear and remerchandising of our retail specialty stores beginning in the fall,
although the initiatives will come
against the backdrop of some
uncertainty and sagging consumer confidence,” he said.
As for Stroll’s resignation,
Lamer observed, “Stroll has been
working on Asprey & Garrard for
the last 18 months. Now he will
focus on that entirely. It will have
no operational impact on the
Tommy whatsoever.”
According to Tommy’s latest
annual report filed in May with
the Securities and Exchange Commission, Stroll retains a 1.1 percent ownership stake in Tommy.
Lamer didn’t rule out the possibility that Stroll, now without
any potential conflict of interest,
might want to take a closer look at
Calvin Klein Inc. should that business be put back on the market.
Lehman’s Drbul didn’t think that
was likely anytime soon, as long as
Stroll was still heavily focused on
Asprey. However, Drbul advised,
“I would keep a close eye on what
Silas Chou does because, if Stroll
was keen on acquiring CKI, he
would likely do it in partnership
with Chou.”
Both Stroll and Chou bought
Asprey in July 2000 from the
Brunei Investment Agency for
an undisclosed sum — although
industry observers estimated it
at less than $152 million. The
two, until Monday’s announcement, were co-chairman of
Tommy. Chou also retains a 1.1
percent stake in Tommy.
By Lisa Lockwood
NEW YORK — Lawrence Stroll
stepped down as co-chairman and
director of Tommy Hilfiger Corp. to
concentrate on his new babies,
Asprey and Garrard.
“It’s been a wonderful 13 and a
half years since acquiring Tommy. I
feel I’ve done all I can do,” said
Stroll, 43, who was reached in
London. “I want to move into different pastures. I bought Asprey &
Garrard two years ago and am enjoying it tremendously. I thought it was
the right time.”
He said the A&G Group, which
he bought with Silas Chou, was taking more time than he originally
thought. “It’s London-based and it’s
a lot easier for me,” said Stroll, who
resides with his family there.
Stroll said he made the decision
to leave about nine months ago and
apprised his partners. He said there
were no disagreements, the parting
is amicable, and he remains friendly
with them. Sources said Stroll has
been less involved with the Hilfiger
business as A&G has started to take
up an increasing amount of his time.
Asked if he believes there’s
growth left in Hilfiger, Stroll said,
“There’s absolutely opportunity in
Tommy. You won’t see the growth
levels of five to six years ago, it’s too
large a company. You can only have
a certain amount of distribution
without lowering one’s standards.”
Stroll said he will retain his
shares in Hilfiger. He and Chou each
own 1.1 percent of the company.
“I think we put together a fantastic team. All four partners made
an equal contribution to our enormous success,” said Stroll, referring to Tommy Hilfiger, honorary
chairman, Joel Horowitz, chief executive officer, and Chou, who continues to serve as co-chairman.
Although sources consider Chou
the genius and innovator behind
Hilfiger’s remarkable growth, they
credit Stroll with making some
major contributions to the company.
With a product design and marketing bent, Stroll spearheaded many
of Hilfiger’s ventures, including international distribution, in which he
was well versed, having had a previous partnership with Polo/Ralph
Lauren in Canada and Europe.
Sources said Stroll has a difficult
personality, but the back-and-forth
banter between he and Chou allowed
great ideas to come out of the
Hilfiger business. They said Stroll
was very aggressive when it came to
product offerings, which was a boon
to the growth of the business.
Stroll brought Polo to Canada in
the late 1970s, and in the early
1980s, became the Polo licensee
for all of Europe. He and Chou,
whose fathers were friendly, became
partners in Polo in Europe in the
mid-1980s. In 1989, an affiliate of
Novel Enterprises, owned by Chou
and Stroll, acquired the majority
ownership of Tommy Hilfiger Inc.
and the licensing agreement with
Mojan Murjani was terminated.
They took Hilfiger public in 1992,
followed by three secondary offerings. These offerings paid off handsomely for the partners. At one
point, the partners had netted a
combined $325 million on an original investment of $206,000.
While building Hilfiger, Stroll and
Chou engineered some key moves,
such as the $1.15 billion acquisition
in 1998 of two of its sister companies: Pepe Jeans USA Inc. and
Lawrence
Stroll
Tommy Hilfiger Canada Inc. Stroll’s
family owned 100 percent of Hilfiger
Canada, and Pepe Jeans was held by
associates of Stroll and Chou,
Hilfiger and Horowitz.
In 2001, Hilfiger Corp. also completed the acquisition of its former
European licensee, T.H. International
NV for $200 million in cash. Based
in Amsterdam, its principal operating
subsidiary was Tommy Hilfiger
Europe BV (and its subsidiary,
Tommy Europe). Tommy Europe was
controlled by Apparel International
Holdings Ltd., whose owners were
Chou, Stroll, Hilfiger and Horowitz.
Independent of Hilfiger, Stroll
and Chou bought Asprey & Garrard in
July 2000 from previous owner
Prince Jefri Bolkiah, the younger
brother of the Sultan of Brunei. They
aim to transform the A&G Group to
compete with such luxury firms as
Hermés, Louis Vuitton, Bulgari,
Gucci and Tiffany, and eventually go
for an initial public offering. “Our
plan is to build a business. If going
public down the road is sensible,
we’ll entertain that, but it’s not in the
cards today,” said Stroll on Monday.
Although Stroll kept a low profile
and preferred to keep his name out
of the press, he has been busy on
many fronts. Over the past several
years, he and Chou have been actively seeking acquisitions, both for
Hilfiger and themselves, and have
made unsuccessful bids for various
companies, namely Calvin Klein
Inc., Brooks Brothers and Valentino.
Asked if he’s looking to make any
more acquisitions, Stroll told WWD,
“I’m not looking, but if the right opportunity crossed my plate, I wouldn’t say no.” He said he could make
an acquisition with Chou, or “it
could be myself alone.”
Stroll said that currently he is
more involved than Chou in the
A&G Group, which generates $75
million in volume.
“Silas is not as heavily involved in
A&G as I am. Now I’m involved in
the design of product and the marketing function. That’s my side of the
contribution to our partnership. Silas
is more involved in the financial, distribution and accounting” said Stroll.
Executives were surprised
Monday with the news that Stroll
was departing Hilfiger. Some
sources said Stroll’s role at Hilfiger
was unclear and that he could be
disruptive, late for meetings and
unfocused. Others called him
shrewd, and someone who “lucked
out” by partnering with Chou.
“As co-chairman and in looking
at the big picture, Lawrence was
very instrumental and very important,” said John Koroukas, president
of sportswear at Warnaco Group, who
previously worked with Stroll at Pepe
Jeans and Hilfiger. “He was extremely involved, particularly in the
earlier years. He had great eye and a
great opinion of trends. He was very
strong, very aggressive and very opinionated. He’s a real cornerstone of
the organization.”
WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 30, 2002
Women’s Strong at Tommy Asprey and Garrard Are
As Quarter Sees $439M Loss Stroll’s Post-Hilfiger Focus
3
WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 30, 2002
4
Sunny
Diane Von
Furstenberg’s
gray polkadot
silk wrap
over August
Silk’s slip.
Nanette Lepore’s black
and white, ruffle-edged
dress; monarch
butterfly sunglasses
from MorgenthalFrederics; cotton wrap
by Phelgye at Tibet
Kailash; leather ballet
slippers by Capezio.
5
WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 30, 2002
y Side Up
Miguelina
Honeymoon’s
white linen
dress; necklace
by Yoni Z.
NEW YORK — Resort’s bare little sundresses cast a spell of romance
from dawn to dusk. They turn up in cotton or silk, prints or solids, but
always with the requisite flirty details: ribbons, panels, ruffles or lace.
David Meister’s
brown-toned
paisley silk
dress.
PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MODELS: LAURA TEXTER AND JESSICA K /NY MODELS; HAIR: DANIEL GARZA FOR MELANGE; MAKEUP: ANNIE ING FOR SALLY HARBOR; STYLED BY BROOKE MAGNAGHI; FASHION ASSISTANT: CHRISTINA CHINLOY
Jiwon Park’s
panel dress in
blush cotton
gauze, with
ribbons and
lace details, at
Showroom
Seven;
earrings
by Yoni Z.
Ready-to-Wear Report
Short’s Long Plan at Leslie Fay
Continued from page 2
focused on maintaining and rebuilding retail relationships.
As for whether the firm would ever regain its lofty
volume, Pomerantz’s reply was, “That would be nice.”
Leslie Fay’s global sourcing structure was another
area of the company that took a hard hit from its financial woes. As part of its reorganization plan five years
ago, Leslie Fay closed its long-time production facilities
in the Wilkes-Barre area of Pennsylvania. It has moved
most of its production offshore, but maintains some
local manufacturing, which Short said is important in
chasing trends.
To reduce cost by taking the sourcing operations outof-house, Leslie Fay executives told WWD that the company has entered into an exclusive agreement with Hong
Kong-based Li & Fung, the $4.2 billion global sourcing
and supply chain management company. In the new
agreement — which was finalized at the end of June —
Li & Fung is now fully responsible for all of Leslie Fay’s
fabric and manufacturing sourcing worldwide.
Li & Fung also absorbed Leslie Fay’s Guatemala
sourcing office, it’s only remaining sourcing bureau.
Short said Li & Fung’s knowledge of the Far East combined with its sound reputation made for an ideal
sourcing partnership.
“Cash is best deployed working on product, price
value and marketing,” Short said. “By partnering with Li
& Fung, we allow ourselves to redirect our funds into the
front-end of the business and we significantly enhance
our negotiating power with the mills, which will result in
full margins for our retailers and for us. Li & Fung has
tremendous weight in markets around the world.”
Li & Fung appointed Debora Vinson as division manager for the Leslie Fay account, along with a team of
five product managers to work directly with the firm in
New York. Additionally, there are about 50 to 60 other
people that will work on the Leslie Fay account in its
network of 68 sourcing offices in 40 countries. Currently,
areas where Leslie Fay teams have been placed include: Hong Kong, The Philippines, Indonesia, Korea
and India.
On the Leslie Fay side, Lee Polsky was hired as senior
vice president and is the new head of global sourcing.
Polsky has been involved in the implementation of Li &
Fung as it becomes the company’s exclusive buying agent
outside the U.S., which is to be fully implemented this week.
Short said apparel sourced by Li & Fung will start hitting the market in spring 2003 for the Leslie Fay Dress
and David Warren brands, as well as knitwear and
sweaters for the entire company. Li & Fung will source
for the rest of Leslie Fay’s divisions starting in fall 2003.
“Li & Fung will find the best areas in the world to
manufacture and strive to minimize lead times,” Short
said, adding that another key objective is to focus on design details and embellishment in the product. “We
want to make sure that the price-value equation in
every item in every line represents great value to the
final consumer.”
The agreement with Li & Fung and the announcement last week to sell Trio New York are the first major
marks that Short has made on the company since he
began working there in March. In keeping with its current plan to remain cautious and streamline operations,
Leslie Fay announced after a board meeting Thursday
the decision to sell Trio, the ready-to-wear line it acquired only eight months ago, as reported.
Short said Trio — a nine-year-old company designed
by husband-and-wife team Steven and Judy Garfield —
has too similar of a market to David Warren and the licensed Liz Claiborne Dresses and Evening lines. In an
MARKET BASKET
MICHEL KLEIN’S NEW LINE: Paris-based designer Michel Klein,
who has a flourishing business in the Far East with his
Japanese partner of 12 years, Itokin, is out to beef up his
business elsewhere in the world. Klein will launch a new
secondary line, MK Michel Klein, this September at the Who’s
Next trade show in Paris.
“It’s a collection geared to vacations and sunny weather,”
explained Klein. “There are a lot of colorful prints and
embroidered pieces.”
Wholesale prices will range from $25 for a top to $60 for a
dress. Meantime, Klein’s signature collection is carried in
about 50 doors, including Le Bon Marché in Paris and Barneys
New York. Klein said he had $60 million in sales last year.
“In Asia, our business continues to grow, with 20 to 30
percent increases every season,” added Klein. “So I told
myself it’s about time to start concentrating on other
markets, too.”
PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN
WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 30, 2002
6
From left, Linda Larsen German, John Pomerantz and W. John Short.
interview last week, Short said Trio was not a strategic
fit in terms of remapping.
“When you look at the power of the Liz Claiborne
and David Warren names, Liz is the top of the heap and
David Warren is a strong second,” Short said. “Trio is a
faraway third in our stable of brands.”
Short questioned whether or not a company starts to
cannibalize itself by having too much investment in the
same distribution channel, but cited no plans to sell other
areas of the business. He also said the company is always
on the lookout for new brands, as long as they don’t overlap with other labels in Leslie Fay’s current group.
In another result of the cautious attitude at Leslie
Fay, the company’s planned relaunch of the Outlander
label for fall 2003 still has a green light, though the project has been postponed for one year. Outlander, which
Short said was a $50 million brand in the early Nineties,
was known for its novelty knitwear. But Short said it’s
necessary to focus on squaring away the core business
before relaunching other labels. Short said he hopes
Outlander will offer a more diversified portfolio of
brands through the line’s sportswear and knitwear.
Further, Short said labels that carry high brand
recognition with consumers and retailers — such as the
dormant Breckenridge and Personal Sportswear labels
— are projects that he would like to see relaunched in
the future, though executives at the company have
made similar claims since 2000.
Leslie Fay Sportswear, however, which has not been
produced for the past three years, will relaunch at the
beginning of August during market week here with a
new spring 2003 collection.
The sportswear line has been designed alongside
Leslie Fay Dress, in terms of fabric and color themes, in
an overall goal to weave Leslie Fay Dress and
NINA NEWS: Lynda Galayda has been appointed executive vice
president of new business development at moderate dress line
Nina Leonard. Galayda was most recently with Foley’s, a
division of May Co. She will be involved in merchandising and
marketing the Nina Leonard line.
SAO NICE: A Brazilian hospital honored the Council of Fashion
Designers of America +by dedicating its ambulatory wing to
the group for its Fashion Target Breast Cancer initiative.
CFDA president Stan Herman and executive director Peter
Arnold, along with Tony Saffieri, FTBC executive producer,
made a trip to São Paolo, Brazil, this month for the city’s
fashion week and to tour the Instituto Brasileiro de Controle do
Cancer, which FTBC supports. The cancer treatment facility
has been expanded over the past seven years thanks to FTBC
support and has raised nearly $8 million for the cause.
More than 300 cancer patients joined hospital employees
in surprising Herman, Arnold and Saffieri with the dedication
of the ambulatory wing during their visit. Founded in 1994,
FTBC is now offered in eight countries.
Sportswear into a more unified brand. Leslie Fay Dress
is headed by Cate Bandel, who has held the post of president for the past year.
Frank Spina, a former Maggie London executive,
joined Leslie Fay on July 1 as design director of the dress
division. Spina will report to Bandel, as well as collaborate with the designer of Leslie Fay Sportswear — a vacant position that the company said it’s looking to fill.
Spina is also coordinating design with the company’s
shoe and handbag licensees, with the goal of updating
the style to match that of the overall Leslie Fay image.
Pat Kinney was hired in June as president of the entire sportswear group, which includes Joan Leslie,
Haberdashery and Leslie Fay Sportswear. It will also
include Outlander when it launches. Lynn Olsen was
hired last month as the director of merchandising for
the sportswear group.
“The Leslie Fay customer is really 55 years old and
above,” said Larsen. “We want to bring clarity to the
brand and tie sportswear [and the main collection] with
an aesthetic that is unified. We don’t want to walk away
from our customer, but we need to adjust the product to
be from 44 to 59 years old.”
Larsen, who’s primary responsibility is to oversee
product development, said there will be changes to the
clothes starting in spring 2003 in terms of a more youthful fit and by being more trend oriented.
“The product will be appropriate,” she said. “We’re
implementing these changes subtly, in ways that aren’t
scary to the consumer. Change will be obvious and what
we really tried to do is honor the existing consumer and
not disappoint her, yet bring the line subtlety forward to
a more updated and youthful look.”
Annette Mathieu was promoted to president of David
Warren Dress, where she was previously the head of
merchandising for the division.
Brands under the Leslie Fay umbrella will also see
what Short calls an “image audit” and will receive new
labels and hang tags, starting with the Leslie Fay brands
this spring. Jennifer Crawford was hired in June as director of marketing and creative services to oversee the
new image at retail. Changes to the other brands will be
rolled out as soon they are finalized, though Larsen did
not disclose dates or descriptions of the changes.
Image-oriented Web sites for each brand, with information about retail partners and store locations, are also
planned, but dates are yet to be determined.
As for which brand under its umbrella had the most potential, the executives pointed to Cynthia Steffe, the contemporary sportswear line acquired by Leslie Fay in 2000.
Leslie Fay, founded by Pomerantz’s father, Fred, in
1947, was one of the first to go public, and has since
been taken private and public several times over the
years. As for taking the company public once again,
Short said there are no current plans. However, he said
the company’s primary investor, Three Cities Research,
has a track record of investing with companies that
eventually go public and that a stock offering of some
sort is a possibility down the road.
Continued from page 2
186.10 points, to close at 4,202.70.
Workers struck several WalMart stores in Germany last
Friday and Saturday, though no
stores were closed. The strike
was instigated by Ver.di, Germany’s service union, which is
trying to pressure Wal-Mart to
join the German Employer’s
Federation, which the union negotiates with on salaries and
other issues on behalf of retail
workers. Ver.di said Monday
that it would continue to call for
strikes at Wal-Mart stores in
Germany, at as of yet unspecified dates, until Wal-Mart joins
the Federation. There are 95
Wal-Marts in Germany.
Sales for the overall company
slid below plan last week, though
Wal-Mart said it would still hit
Gilson and Turner
Planning to Exit
From Swiss Army
NEW YORK — Swiss Army Brands
Inc., a division of Victorinox AG,
said Monday that chairman Peter
Gilson and president A. Jeffrey
Turner plan to resign “in the immediate future,” although the
company did not specify when.
This follows news last week
that Swiss firm Victorinox AG
has agreed to purchase the remaining outstanding shares —
about 33 percent — of Swiss
Army that it doesn’t already own.
Swiss Army makes pocket
knives, watches, sunglasses and
a variety of other products.
On Monday, Victorinox said
that Susanne Rechner, senior vice
president of global watches at
SABI, was to be designated president of Swiss Army Brands if and
when the tender offer is completed. Both Gilson and Turner have
indicated their intention to tender all the shares they hold.
As part of the agreement, Victorinox will pay $9 a share in cash
for the approximate 2.7 million
outstanding shares of SABI held
by other holders. The deal is slated to be completed in mid-August,
according to a firm spokesman.
The two companies have engaged in legal rankling in recent
months regarding the sale. In
June, both companies issued
statements announcing the tender
offer, but later in the month a
number of lawsuits were filed on
behalf of shareholders of SABI asserting that Victorinox’s offer was
“unfair” and “grossly inadequate.”
In regard to the latest deal, a
special outside committee determined that the tender offer is
“fair and in the best interest of
stockholders of Swiss Army
Brands,” Victorinox stated. Most
of the lawsuits are still pending,
according to the spokesman.
Victorinox, headquartered in
Ibach-Schwyz, Switzerland, also
makes pocket knives and tools.
In the first quarter ended
March 31, SABI, based in Shelton,
Conn., reported a loss of $936,000,
an improvement over a loss of
$2.3 million in the previous year’s
quarter. Revenue gained 17.6 percent to $24.7 million.
In recent years, Swiss Army
has begun to add more categories
and promote itself as a lifestyle
brand.
— Melanie Kletter
the lower end of its July comparable-store sales plan for a 5 to 7
percent uptick. On a recorded
call, the firm attributed some of
the weakness to strong year-ago
sales driven by the distribution of
income tax rebate checks.
J.C. Penney said its department stores should comp down 2
to 4 percent in July, in line with
its original expectations. Last
week, Penney’s said it was tracking toward a 2 percent decline.
Federated Department Stores
Inc. continues to expect its samestore sales to be flat to slightly
down in July, and Target said
comps in its discount stores came
in below plan due to weakness in
its men’s wear and gardening
areas.
— With contributions from
David Moin
NEW YORK — Strong sales in
each of its divisions combined
with reduced expenses paved
the way for Steven Madden Ltd.
to report a 19 percent increase
in its second-quarter profits and
raise its outlook for the year.
For the quarter ended June
30, the Long Island City, N.Y.based maker of shoes and accessories yielded net income of
$5.3 million, or 38 cents a diluted share, beating Wall Street’s
consensus estimates by 3 cents.
Last year, the company reported income of $4.4 million, or 34
cents a diluted share. Sales skyrocketed to $88.1 million, registering 47.9 percent higher than
year-ago sales of $59.6 million.
“We are extremely encouraged by our performance yearto-date and are very excited
about the direction of our business,” Jamieson Karson, chief
executive, said in a statement.
“As we move forward into the
balance of the year and beyond,
we intend to focus not only on
further strengthening our core
brands, but also on identifying
new areas of growth and diversifying our business through additional licensing arrangements
and international expansion.”
Revenues from the wholesale business, comprising SM’s
five brands — Steve Madden
Women’s, Steve Madden Men’s,
Stevies, LEI and David Aaron —
significantly exceeded plan, increasing 66.5 percent to $65.7
percent from $39.5 million.
Results were driven by high
double-digit increases across
the board and the strong sales
of Madden Men’s, which grew
600 percent year-over-year.
Retail revenues were boosted 11.5 percent to $22.4 million
and up 5.1 percent on a comparable-store basis. The company
currently operates 74 stores, including its Internet site, and
plans to add eight more during
the rest of the year.
Based on the quarter’s results and current sales trends,
SM bumped its earnings target
for the year to between $1.33
and $1.38 a share, from the previous range of $1.28 to $1.33.
For the first half, income rose
15.9 percent to $9.4 million, or 68
cents a diluted share, compared
with income of $8.1 million, or 63
cents, in the corresponding period
last year. Sales grew 37 percent to
$154.7 million versus $113 million.
WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 30, 2002
Stocks Score Again Solid Madden Quarter Ups Outlook
7
The Fiber Price Sheet
Textile Report
Yarn Fair: Branching Out
On the last Tuesday of each month, WWD publishes the current,
month-ago and year-ago fiber prices. Prices listed reflect the cost
of one pound of fiber.
Fiber
Price on
7/26/02
Price on
6/25/02
Price on
7/31/01
Cotton
Polyester staple
Polyester filament
June Synthetic PPI
46.63 cents
53 cents
66 cents
105.4
N/A
50 cents
67 cents
106.4
44.15 cents
52 cents
67 cents
107.8
*THE CURRENT COTTON PRICE IS THE JUNE AVERAGE ON FIBER BEING DELIVERED TO SOUTHEASTERN
REGION MILLS, ACCORDING TO AGRICULTURAL MARKETING SERVICES/USDA. INFORMATION ON POLYESTER
PRICING IS PROVIDED BY THE CONSULTING FIRM DEWITT & CO. THE SYNTHETIC-FIBER PRODUCER PRICE
INDEX, OR PPI, IS COMPILED BY THE BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS, AND REFLECTS THE OVERALL CHANGE IN
ALL SYNTHETIC-FIBER PRICES. IT IS NOT A PRICE ON DOLLARS BUT A MEASUREMENT IN HOW PRICES HAVE
CHANGED SINCE 1982, WHICH HAD A PPI OF 100. WOOL PRICES FOR THE MONTH WERE NOT AVAILABLE
PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO
WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 30, 2002
8
Editor’s Note: The Fiber Price Sheet resumes its normal monthly appearance today after a two-month break. The U.S.
Department of Agriculture suspended its tracking of landed cotton prices in May. It has since resumed tracking them.
Silk City Fibers’ multicolored rayon and nylon. Overfil’s green and multicolored cotton, wool, nylon, polyester and acrylic.
By Joshua Greene and Daniela Gilbert
NEW YORK — Diversification was a key theme among
vendors at last week’s Yarn Fair International, with
executives explaining that they’re trying to expand their
product offering beyond the sweater-and-sock trade,
which had been the core of the show.
But the changes at the three-day show, which
wrapped up at the Metropolitan Pavilion in here on
Wednesday, were not limited to vendors’ assortments.
More than half of this year’s exhibitors were first-time
participants — making for a pronounced increase in the
number of foreign yarn spinners and fibermakers participating. While U.S. firms represented the plurality of
exhibitors, 32 percent of the total, other exhibitors
hailed from nations including Italy, Spain, Canada, the
U.K., China, Japan and Mauritius.
Several vendors who specialize in apparel said home
furnishings is a market they would like to enter and
brought examples of yarns that could be used in both
knit apparel and upholstery.
At Kennett Square, Penn.-based Kennetex, which
specializes in nylon and polyester yarns, director of
sales and marketing Amy Seiler said attendees looked
to her yarns with high luster for end-use in apparel and
home furnishings. Microfiber chenille yarns were also
targeted by would-be clients for various end-use products, Seiler said.
The company also touted its new line of Kennetex
Express Yarns — an array of $1.88-a-pound polyesterolefin yarns that can be shipped within 24 hours.
Eric Nichols, director of sales at Montreal-based
CNS Yarns, said the company’s tricolor acrylic-nylon
yarn — dubbed “Ménage-à-trois by Nichols” — garnered
the most attention. He also said he expected bouclés
and acrylic-acetate blends to be strong for fall 2003.
Victoria’s Secret’s Paola Monje said she was looking
for tape yarns in different blends at the fair. Monje, a
production coordinator for sweaters at the retailer, said
she was interested in yarns that caught her attention
the moment she saw them. Flat ribbon yarns as well as
natural fibers, such as silk and mohair, mixed with synthetics were also an interest for Monje.
“I’m also looking at novelty yarns such as bouclés
and morels,” said Monje. “I’m always inspired by colors,
and my eye is going to pastels.”
Buyers are liking the smoother
“hand
and the better drape that
matte yarn offers.
”
— Peter Sagal, Silk City Fibers
Fancy yarns were also a popular interest at Loyal
Light International, a Guang Zhou, China-based company, in its sixth year of exhibiting at the Yarn Fair. Loyal
Light specializes in acrylic yarns priced at $4 a pound
and under.
“Chunky gages are popular,” said Joanna Lee, managing assistant. “We’re seeing a lot of interest with
acrylic-spandex blends and acrylic-mohair blends.”
For customers who were interested in full garment
packages, Lee said Loyal Light has partnerships with
apparel manufacturing plants in China.
The strongest trend at this year’s Yarn Fair was multicolored yarns. Many exhibitors showed them in a variety
of constructions, including bouclé, tweed and chenille.
At Grignasco, Italy-based spinner Grignasco Group,
export sales manager Andrea Rossi said that multicolored looks will be essential for fall 2003, citing that the
mixing of color gives a three-dimensional, textured effect. One example Rossi pointed out was a lofty beige
wool yarn, accented with flecks of color throughout.
At Prato, Italy-based Overfil SpA, soft and lightweight
chunky looks were key, according to export manager
Sissi Giulivi. The company emphasized texture in yarns,
including slubbed varieties. Color was also important.
“The general trend lately is to go simple,” Giulivi
said. “But we want to offer very distinct novelties to give
our customers something new.”
Vaiano, Italy-based Pratofilati Srl, meanwhile, featured a selection of rougher bouclé yarns with a multicolored effect that included mixtures of yellow, red, orange, brown and wine.
“People are not really looking for solids,” said Jen
Doyle Fischer, yarn sales representative at Fall River,
Mass.-based Nortex Yarns. “Anything multicolored is key.”
Fischer said Fireworks — Nortex’s new space-dyed
bouclé yarn in acrylic and polyester — caught the attention of show attendees.
Space-dyed yarns were also on view at Wattrelos,
France-based Groupe Saint Lievin. Sales director Alain
Vandenabeele highlighted multicolored yarns with
fluffy and hairy qualities that lend a graphic feel.
Peter Sagal, president of Paterson, N.J.-based Silk
City Fibers, said he saw an increased interest in multicolored, textured yarns at the fair. Sagal said Silk City
has moved away from shiny looks, offering matte rayon
yarns in a variety of colors.
“These styles have been surprisingly strong,” Sagal
said. “I think buyers are liking the smoother hand and
the better drape that matte yarn offers.”
Unifi Cuts Losses in 4th Quarter
TED
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LID
F SO WOVEN
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K P R Y E D & S wear • Childessories
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CUSTOM DESIGN • PRINTING • DYEING
INTERNATIONAL SALES AND SHIPPING
129 WEST 132 STREET • LOS ANGELES CA 90061 • PHONE: 800-877-2066 • FAX: 800-788-5283
NEW YORK SHOWROOM: 110 WEST 4OTH STREET #1901 • NEW YORK NY 10018 • PHONE: 212-840-1266
NEW YORK — Unifi Inc. significantly reduced
the flow of red ink in the quarter and the year
and is hoping to cut it further by providing polyester to Western companies operating in Asia.
Fourth-quarter net losses narrowed to $1.6
million, or 3 cents a share, from the year-ago
deficit of $15.6 million, or 29 cents. Results for
the most recent quarter include a pretax loss of
$7.4 million, or 8 cents a share after taxes, from
the sale and write-down of excess real estate.
Excluding this loss, income for the quarter
reached $3 million, or 5 cents a share.
Sales for period ended June 30 slid 0.4 percent to $256.5 million from $257.6 million a year
ago. The just-ended quarter included an extra
week compared with the year-ago period.
Chief executive officer Brian Parke noted in
a statement: “Each of our businesses in Brazil,
Ireland and England were profitable in the
June quarter.
“We have made significant progress in upgrading our business systems to Web-based technology, allowing us to more effectively plan our
entire global supply chain.”
The Greensboro, N.C.-based textured yarns
producer also entered agreements with Tuntex
to help that firm’s Thailand manufacturing facility ramp up the quality and variety of its polyester filament yarns while using the Thai plant
as a base for sourcing in Asia.
Mike Delaney, senior vice president, noted:
“Asia represents the majority of global poly-
ester textured yarn consumption. The agreements with Tuntex will establish an effective
foothold in the market from which we can distribute high-quality textured polyester yarns,
particularly to supply the needs of Western
companies that have already shifted production to the region.”
Asia represents the
“majority
of global polyester
textured yarn consumption.
”
— Mike Delaney, Unifi
For the year, losses tapered slightly to $43.9
million, or 82 cents a share, from $44.7 million, or
83 cents, a year ago. Before a change in accounting standards, losses narrowed dramatically to
$6.1 million, or 11 cents a share. The period also
included a pretax loss of $1.7 million, or 2 cents a
share, from the sale and write-down of property
and equipment as well as a $33.8 million pretax
benefit from Unifi’s manufacturing alliance with
DuPont, which is currently in arbitration.
Sales were down 19.1 percent to $914.7 million from $1.13 billion a year ago.
— Evan Clark
Obituaries
Prominent in Fifties Fashion
NEW YORK — Jeanne S. Campbell, a designer who played a
role in the Fifties sportswear
movement in America that included more famous names like
Bonnie Cashin and Claire McCardell, died last Wednesday of
complications resulting from a
stroke. She was 82.
While her career, which
spanned more than 30 years, has
not had as visible an impact in
comparison to the continued
name recognition of some of her
peers, Campbell’s designs for
Sportwhirl, a New York manufacturer, were highly successful
on Seventh Avenue and had a
marked impact on the mid-century popularization of inexpensive separates. Her designs were
featured on the covers of Vogue,
Harper’s Bazaar and Glamour in
the Fifties; she received the
1955 Coty American Fashion
Critics’ Award; and, in 1970, she
was among 15 American designers included in a WWD ranking
of the “Women of the Year.”
That’s partly because Campbell’s theories of design often
placed the accent on timeless
and fairly nondescript styles
with a breezy slant, rather than
the trendy look of the moment.
As she once said, “It’s a no-age,
no-price look, and it’s up to the
nized with a Mademoiselle Merit Award in 1951, before being
recruited to Sportwhirl. She
continued to build collections
based on a separates philosophy, with fabrics particularly
suited for casual, ever yday
wear. Her clothes, sold under
the “Jeanne Campbell for Sportwhirl” label, turned up on Ava
Gardner, Lynda Bird Johnson
and Liza Minnelli.
“She always tried to make
things classic and timeless, so
they didn’t go out of style,” said
Petersen, who described Campbell as a stern, but nontraditional mother, whose success
was often based on sheer force
of will.
“She was strong and ambitious and filled with great
ideas,” Petersen said. “Whatever
idea she had, she made it happen. Nothing could stop her,
whether it was designing or
working in the garden, or even
putting up a ceiling herself. She
never wanted to grow old, and
even had her nails and hair
done to the end. She had to be
like the first Martha Stewart —
she always had unique ways of
doing things.”
Liesel Boose, who knew
Campbell since around 1950, had
a similar impression. Boose was
Campbell’s theories of design often
placed the accent on timeless and fairly
nondescript styles with a breezy slant,
rather than the trendy look of the
moment. As she once said, “It’s a noage, no-price look, and it’s up to the
person who wears it to make the look.”
person who wears it to make
the look.”
Campbell, who died at the
Oxford, N.Y., home of her
daughter, Jean E. Peterson, had
grown up in Pittsburgh and
wanted to be a fashion designer
since she was 10 years old. After
studying at the Pittsburgh Art
Institute, she opened a small
dress shop in Clearwater, Fla.,
where her family had a summer
home. It was there, during
World War II, while she worked
for the Civil Aeronautics Administration drawing charts and
maps, that she met her husband,
Edward A. Campbell, a lieutenant in the U.S. Air Force.
Af ter the war, the couple
moved to New York and Campbell got a job designing for
Loomtogs, where she worked for
about five years and was recog-
working as a fashion illustrator
for WWD and met the designer
through the paper’s art director,
who said Campbell could help
her find an apartment in the city.
Campbell rented her an apartment directly across from hers on
East 48th Street, which had been
redecorated when the former
tenant moved out.
“It was cold as anything, but
beautifully decorated,” Boose
said. “Jeanne would come over
and try things on me, then ask
me to take them into Women’s
Wear to promote them a little
bit. She once had me wear a
burlap outfit — burlap from
head to foot — because someone
from Paris had done it and it
was a big hit. She knew what she
wanted and she was determined
to get it.”
After divorcing her husband
fe, Bill Robinson, Victor Costa,
Cathy Hardwick, Jeffrey Banks,
David Minka and Chrystine Forti.
In the Seventies, when designers
were only beginning to rise as
celebrities, Lesser helped clients
protect the rights to their names
and designs.
“They were to a large extent,
I’ll use the term ‘abused,’ by the
trade,” at the time, said Harrison.
Andrew Gowen, an analyst with
Lehman Brothers, said Bulgari is
suffering more because it experienced such a boom in the past
and grew more than competitors.
He explained that back in the
go-go years of the Nineties,
Cartier’s sales grew in the single
digits while Bulgari’s ballooned
in the double digits. So when the
market turned, stores found
themselves with that many more
Bulgari watches.
Trapani said Bulgari struggled in the past as third-party retailers ordered fewer watches to
give them time to deplete unsold
stock in the back room. But he
said orders should pick up in
coming months and the flow of
watches between Bulgari and its
retailers should return to normal
starting in August. Backed-up inventory was a problem until 15
months ago, but slowly it is depleting, he said.
The situation is improving,
but a real rebound isn’t seen
until next year at the earliest,
said analysts with one forecasting a second-quarter slide in
Bulgari watch sales of 20 to 22
percent, although comparables
in the second half of the year
should improve, since sales in
the latter part of 2001 (after
Sept. 11) were especially weak.
“The question is whether these
third-party retailers have clean inventories,” said Flouquet, who
predicted that stores will probably
take a more conservative route to
avoid restocking the back room.
“In U.S. stores, it looks like it is
improving. Will they reorder? Yes,
but probably not en masse.”
Fashion Scoops
in 1964, Campbell moved to
Westhampton, N.Y., where the
couple had converted two neighboring shacks into a remarkable
house that she operated as a
bed-and-breakfast until recently.
She continued to commute to
work for Sportwhirl until 1977
and remained active as an instructor and judge at Parsons
School of Design, which has established a scholarship fund
under her name. She also often
traveled to Barbados and Peru
with the International Executive
Service Corp. to consult with
fashion industries and instruct
young designers.
In addition to her daughter
and ex-husband, Campbell is
survived by a son, Edward A.
Campbell Jr., a graphic designer
in New York.
— Eric Wilson
Stanley Lesser, 72, Designer Attorney
NEW YORK — Stanley C. Lesser,
an attorney who was an early advocate of designers’ rights to
their names, died at his New
York home on Sunday. He was 72
and had a brain tumor, according
to David Harrison, his partner in
the firm of Lesser & Harrison.
During his 48-year law career,
Lesser represented designers
such as Perry Ellis, Cynthia Stef-
Continued from page 2
“[Consumers] aren’t still buying
watches as accessories that they
can do without. Instead, they are
buying a watch,” said one analyst.
And although Bulgari has been
making watches since the Seventies, some analysts noted that
Bulgari finds it hard to compete
with more established brands
steeped in technological innovation like Cartier or Patek Philippe.
“Bulgari is one of my favorite
stocks, but I would never buy a
Bulgari watch,” said one analyst. “It is seen more as a fashion product or jewelry than as a
real watch.”
Flouquet of JPMorgan said
Bulgari suffered in the United
States because its flashier fashion image attracted a younger
clientele. Those were among the
first consumers to curb spending
in the downturn after Sept. 11.
“The golden boys and golden
girls — they were hit pretty hard,”
she said.
Still, Trapani denied that Bulgari’s watch collections are overexposed to fashion’s whims, noting a wide variety of timepieces,
ranging from the intricate whitegold-and-diamond bangle Trika
watch to the sporty Diagono
made of matte yellow gold and
black rubber.
“What has always helped Bulgari’s watch results and will help
us a lot in the future is a big glamour component,” said Trapani,
who boasts of Bulgari’s latest
product placement: In “Minority
Report,” Tom Cruise sported a futuristic Bulgari timepiece that
was custom-crafted for the film.
“He brought a sagacious approach to these things that some
of these folks didn’t have.”
Lesser is survived by his wife,
Diana; two daughters, Karen and
Susan; a son, David and six
grandchildren.
Funeral services are scheduled for today at 11:45 a.m. at The
Riverside, West 76th Street and
Amsterdam Avenue, in Manhattan.
TOGA PARTY: After bowing out of
the gala-show hoopla this year, the
Metropolitan Museum of Art is
planning a dramatic return of its
Costume Institute Gala on April 28,
2003, with a title sponsor already
in place. Gucci has signed on to
host the “Party of the Year” and
the Met’s upcoming “Goddess”
exhibit, which explores how
classical dress has inspired and
influenced art and fashion
throughout the ages.
“Classical revivals in dress are a
mainstay not only of contemporary
fashion, but are also found
throughout costume history,” said
Harold Koda, curator of the Costume
Institute. “We’re going to track the
Greco-Roman authority back through
the Empire, Rococo and Baroque
periods.” The exhibit will even take a
look at Hollywood’s representation of
the classical past, as seen in Isadora
Duncan’s dance performances for
“Medea” and “Gladiator.”
MATTHEW’S MEMORIES: Matthew
Williamson is planning to look back
on his career as a fashion designer
— all five years of it — in a
retrospective scheduled to take
place in London. The designer has
asked Rankin to photograph
friends, including Jade Jagger,
Trudie Styler, Helena Christensen,
Sophie Dahl and Claudia Schiffer, in
looks from his past 10 seasons.
The photographic exhibition will
take place in September during
London Fashion Week in a venue
that’s still to be decided, and plans
are in the works to take it to other
fashion cities. A spokeswoman said
Williamson is entirely serious about
the flashback after such a brief
period in business — and there’s
no irony intended. “He really
wanted to document the past five
years of his career, and thank his
friends — like Jade, Helena and
Trudie — who’ve stuck with him
since the beginning,” she said.
FOOT FETISH: Gilles Bensimon’s fall
boots and sandals story in the
August issue of Elle has raised
several eyebrows with images of a
woman kissing another’s red
lacquered nails or another in an
Alexander McQueen corset on all
fours, rump to the camera. But one
of the less salacious images of a
Christian Louboutin satin mule on
page 152, shown as a still life of the
shoe propped against a photograph
of a woman wearing them, holds a
more subtle mystery. Turns out the
model in question is Diane Von
Whose legs are these?
Furstenberg, a close pal and frequent
collaborator of the footwear
designer, although her stems are not
credited in the caption.
“I thought it looked better with
no text,” said Bensimon,
publication director of Elle. “The
idea was to have Diane’s legs,
because, I thought, if her legs could
talk, they would have a lot to say.”
WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 30, 2002
Bulgari’s
Tough
Time
Designer Jeanne S. Campbell,
9
WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 30, 2002
10
Zara’s store in Mexico.
Zara’s store on
Madrid’s Gran Via.
Inditex’s corporate headquarters in La Coruña, Spain.
Inside the Zara store in Nice, France.
Inside the Inditex Empire
By Barbara Barker
Amancio Ortega, Inditex
founder and chairman.
LA CORUNA, Spain — The Inditex juggernaut shows
no signs of slowing.
The industrial and retail behemoth based here,
which owns Zara and five other branded apparel
chains operating 1,377 stores in 41 countries, plans to
open up to 275 stores worldwide this year in its everincreasing expansion. It also expects to launch a home
line next year to go along with its women’s, men’s, children’s wear, accessories and beauty products.
The one market that remains off Inditex’s radar
for the time being, however, is the United States. The
company currently operates four Zara stores in
Manhattan; one each in Long Island and New Jersey;
two in Miami and one in Puerto Rico.
“The time is not right [to expand in the United
States],” Raul Estravera of Zara said in an interview.
“We are still concentrating on Europe. The U.S. requires an enormous effort, and we can’t work on both
markets at the same time.”
He did predict one U.S. opening by year’s end,
“probably,” (a word he used throughout the conversation) with follow-up outlets “probably” of two to
three per year.
“The events of Sept. 11 resulted, obviously in a
drop in U.S. sales,” Estravera added. “We even
closed stores for a few days. But today, sales are
good; they have recovered.”
In addition, the stock valuation was pushed down
to its lowest levels of $17.78 to $19.76. Currently, at
$20.75 to $22.72, it is trading higher than before the
attacks, Estravera said.
Elsewhere, though, Inditex continues to step on
the accelerator, and it remains one of the most-admired retailers in the world. Zara operates stores in
Canada, South America, Asia and the Middle East.
Europe, including Spain, accounts for roughly 77
percent of the group’s total sales.
“In Europe, our focus is on Germany — that’s the
key market — also France and the U.K., along with
smaller countries like Holland, Belgium and
Austria,” Estravera said. “We will still open stores in
Spain and Portugal, but not at a significant rate.”
“Normally, the retail operation is not a franchising system,” added his colleague Carmen Melón
(generally speaking, the company bypasses traditional management titles, but the duo oversee all the
group’s external communications). “There are three
joint ventures — in Japan and Germany (with the
Bigi and Otto Versand Groups respectively) and in
Italy (with Grupo Percassi) — but we have franchises
in the Middle East, because it’s the easiest way to do
business there.”
The once-secretive Inditex is beginning to provide more peeks into its operations following its
successful initial public offering in May 2001. The
IPO reportedly raised $2 billion for 26.1 percent of
the company and valued Inditex overall at $10 billion. Based on a solid performance, the stock was
admitted to the blue-chip IBEX 35 index six weeks
after its market debut. Earlier this month, company
founder and chairman Amancio Ortega sold 1.98
percent of his participation for $255.6 million to institutional investors. He retains majority ownership
with 59.3 percent. The remainder is owned by
15,000 company employees — out of a workforce of
almost 27,000.
And to think it all began with a pink quilted robe.
In the early Sixties, or so the story goes, Ortega decided to make that robe and other basic garments
like underwear and housecoats cheaper than any-
11
WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 30, 2002
Inditex’s newest chain, the Oysho lingerie and sleepwear store.
Zara’s multilevel store in Tokyo.
Who’s the Next Zara?
MADRID — While major industry leaders here say nobody does it better, there are some heirs apparent nipping at Zara’s heels. How close is the competition?
Mango: Spain’s second-largest apparel exporter
(women’s only) after Inditex, with 600 stores in 68
countries and forecast retail sales for fiscal 2002 of
$1.6 billion. The chain, which manufactures the majority of its merchandise like Inditex, is currently targeting the European market, especially the United
Kingdom and France, according to Salvador Vallés, of
Mango’s expansion department. “These countries
have a potential not yet exploited,” he said. In addition, openings are scheduled this year in Bulgaria and
Estonia. Last June, the Barcelona-based company
opened its first Australian unit for a retail presence
on five continents. As for the United States, “We plan
to open stores in major American cities by 2005. But
nothing is clear yet,” said Vallés.
Sfera: a new division of El Corte Inglés, Spain’s
only department store chain, officially launched earlier this month. Its product mix is similar to Zara’s, with
one else. Purportedly, production took place on his
kitchen table.
Today, Ortega, 66, is considered the richest man in
Spain and one of the richest in the world. Forbes estimates his worth last year was $9.1 billion, placing him at
number 25 on its annual list of the world’s billionaires.
The year before, he was ranked 43rd with an estimated
net worth of $6.6 billion.
Ortega opened his first store in 1975 here in La
Coruña, his adopted hometown, and in 1988, he moved
Inditex into international markets. At one point, according to sources here, Inditex was opening a store every
120 hours. Last year the group overall entered seven
new markets: Luxembourg, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, the
Czech Republic, Jordan and Puerto Rico. For fiscal
2001, bolstered by Zara, its best-selling division and retail linchpin, Inditex reported net profit climbed 31.3
percent to $296.4 million and sales for the group rose 24
percent to $2.83 billion.
For an idea of how the brands pull their weight, sales
for 2001 broke down as follows: Zara with the lion’s
share, at 76.2 percent; Massimo Dutti (7.4 percent); Pull
and Bear (6.9 percent); Bershka (6.2 percent);
Stradivarius (2.9 percent) and the year-old lingeriesleepwear chain Oysho (0.2 percent).
For the first quarter of fiscal 2002, ending April 30,
net income jumped 32 percent to $66 million while
group sales increased 28 percent to $840.2 million, due
primarily to the opening of 53 stores and growth in
same-store sales.
Of the 230 to 275 openings planned in this fiscal year,
sources said 65 will be new units for Zara (for a total of
572) and 20 for Kiddie’s Class, a children’s category
made up of Zara spillover — “but it’s not a chain,” explained a spokeswoman.
The question is: How does Inditex do it? A recent
visit to the group’s corporate headquarters, located in
the industrial zona of Areixto, 16 miles from La Coruña
on the northwestern coast, clarified how Ortega’s empirical formula of trendy fashion at accessible price
points manages to transcend the global turbulence of
today’s markets.
A completely vertical fashion operation, Inditex is
based on teamwork and communication, market speed,
tight inventory management and quality control. “We
are all responsible here; it’s teamwork,” said Melón,
who studied at New York’s Fashion Institute of
Technology. “We don’t have one designer, for example;
we have a design team of 200.”
“There are four major processes — design, production, distribution and sales,” Estravera continued. “We
don’t want to miss out on the latest trend, which means
a fast response to the demands of our customer and the
market. Having our own factories (22 fully-owned plants
throughout Spain) allows us this flexibility — 15 days
from product decision to delivery and twice-weekly
shipments of fresh merchandise — and there is less
chance of error.”
In addition, Inditex relies on a prolific network of
global contractors, said Melón. For instance, there is no
in-house textile or accessory production, except shoes.
On a yearly basis, 25 percent of Zara, mostly novelty
items and accessories, is purchased from outside
sources. The group buys its fabrics, particularly cotton
and linen, from domestic suppliers and Portugal, Melón
said, and leathers from such offshore sources as Turkey
and other Asian countries. Cosmetics are imported from
Sweden, France and Germany.
Operations like dyeing, printing, cutting — 35 million
meters of fabric a year — and finishing are done on the
premises, while sewing and piecework are sent to 300
workshops throughout the region.
“The stores are the key to our business,” said
Estravera. “For instance, Zara sells 12,000 styles a
year, with an average of over $5 million in sales per
store. On the other hand, that figure doesn’t really reflect the reality of the situation, because the stores
aren’t the same size.”
In a streamlined two-year-old building with reflective glass, butterscotch marble floors and stainless steel,
corporate headquarters and management offices share
space with such departments (Zara only) as product development and coordination, graphic design, patternmaking, sizing, sampling and commerce, or what one
employee called “the fitting room reaction,” adding:
“Here is where we monitor customer insights and
needs, a shorter sleeve, a different color, for example.
Customer opinions are very, very important; if we can
trendy Gen-X women’s, men’s and children’s clothing,
innerwear, accessories, cosmetics and a fragrance
line at what it claims are “the most competitive prices
on the market.” To date, nine Sfera units have opened
in Spain including three in outlying Madrid malls. A
fourth store is planned for the end of this year on
Calle Preciados, a shop-heavy thoroughfare in central
Madrid, where retail neighbors include Zara and
Bershka. Some of the new stores are previous Marks &
Spencer locales. El Corte Inglés took over the M&S
Spain locations in December of last year.
Cortefiel: Spain’s giant apparel manufacturer and
retail conglomerate with seven divisions including
Cortefiel, women’s/men’s; Springfield and Milano,
men’s; Pedro del Hierro and Don Algodón, womens;
Women’Secret, lingerie, and Douglas, beauty. Cortefiel
operates a worldwide distribution network of 726
stores, plus 169 franchises and 24 retail “corners.”
There are no U.S. retail outlets, and none are planned
— yet. “While we won’t close any doors, our current
strategy is to consolidate the European market. So far,
nothing is pending in the U.S.,” confirmed a Madrid
spokesman. On the other hand, Cortefiel has been
struggling of late, with a 72 percent drop in net profits
in the first nine months of fiscal 2002.
improve the garment in time for the next shipment,
we’ll do it.”
Also in the building is a 13,000-square-foot pilot store
to test retail visuals such as day-night lighting, displays
and window dressing. Inditex does little conventional
advertising. “A pleasant shopping experience in our
stores is the best publicity. Our design philosophy is
based on a discreet interior and clean spaces so you can
see the product,” Melón said.
Inditex reinvests its profits — to what extent appears
to be a matter of debate — although $543.4 million are
slated for new stores and technologies during the current year. Nowhere is solid investment more obvious
than Zara’s distribution center, a vast 4.8-millionsquare-foot area on two levels where weekly an average
two million garments are allocated by code and computer to the company’s global retail network. Underground
tunnels link nearby factories and a custom-made (by a
Danish specialist in mail distribution) “carousel,” featuring 211 kilometers of overhead rails and conveyor
belts, transports merchandise coded according to retail
unit to packing cases. Hanging clothes are shipped on
hangers, folded garments in boxes.
“We only send our stores what they need. There is no
stock that doesn’t move; we have no extra inventory,”
Melón emphasized. She also made a point of saying
Zara does not manufacture special merchandise for
biannual sales which, like most European stores, take
place in January and July.
In addition, there is a 48-hour delivery deadline from
loading dock to store, she said. “Obviously if we are
shipping to Madrid, it won’t take 48 hours, but it’s the
same deadline for Japan.”
Meanwhile, Ortega, who doesn’t speak English (or
wear ties), is described here as a hands-on boss, “approachable, into everything, and he lives the product,”
said an employee. He maintains a low profile — no interviews, no photographs — and interestingly, he works
from a desk in the Zara women’s section and lunches
everyday in the employees’ canteen.
So why all of a sudden is Inditex speaking out? “It’s
like a person,” said Melón, “You have to open up as you
mature. Anyway, we’ve gone public and we have an obligation [to that public.]”
WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 30, 2002
12
Media/Advertising
French Maintain Ad Presence
PARIS — If Paris is indeed burning as a fashion cap-
ital, designers here can hardly beat a retreat.
That seems to be the logic with advertising this fall.
Angling to gain market share at a shaky time for luxury, most houses surveyed said they would maintain, or
slightly increase their campaign budgets this season.
This contrasts with deep cuts at some Italian houses
and suggests French firms are perhaps more optimistic about a second-half turnaround. On average,
French companies spend anywhere from $500,000 a
season on ad campaigns at the smaller houses up to
$20 million at such mega-brands as Louis Vuitton.
“Our budget for the season is bigger,” said PaulGerard Pasols, the new director of communication at
Louis Vuitton, whose Hitchcock-esque campaign
starring model Eva Herzigova breaks in a large number of September magazines. He declined to pinpoint
the increase.
Pasols acknowledged that most of the group’s
brands pared back placements in the first half of 2002
in the wake of Sept. 11 and the ensuing economic
slowdown, but many are back in growth mode. Vuitton,
for example, plans to open seven new boutiques before the end of the year and introduce its first wristwatch, which gets its own spot. The one-page image,
shot by campaign photographers Mert Alas and
Marcus Piggott, shows Herzigova smooching the signature timepiece on a man’s wrist.
Emanuel Ungaro is also charging ahead, encouraged by 30 percent sales increases in its own stores
and an enthusiastic reception to the fall collection designed by artistic director Giambattista Valli. The ads,
shot by Karen Collins in Marrakech and evoking a
young Talitha Getty, will appear in magazines in
France and Italy, but be concentrated in American
publications, a company spokeswoman said. The overall spend may be down, however, since part of the advertising budget will be directed towards a new diffu-
sion line, Ungaro Fuchsia, debuting at retail next year,
she noted.
Amelie Rouyer, advertising director at Givenchy,
said now is not the time to be cautious. “We are in relaunch mode,” she said, referring to the house’s new
direction under designer Julien Macdonald. “We don’t
think it’s time to be careful. The fall-winter campaign,
for instance, is much sexier than spring-summer. We
want to go forward.” She said Givenchy’s budget was
on par with last year.
Chanel and Chloé said they would also maintain
their advertising presence this season.
At Céline, Lucien Goddet, advertising director,
said the house was not cutting its budget. “At present,
we believe going forward is the best strategy,” he
said. “We won’t be in every magazine, but it’s important to keep a presence and be consistent with the
brand image.”
— Robert Murphy and Miles Socha
Clockwise from top left: Two images from Louis Vuitton, Céline, Chanel, Givenchy and Emanuel Ungaro.
MEMO PAD
By Lisa Lockwood
TIME TO GET FOCUSED: Amidst all the turmoil at
AOL Time Warner, the publishing arm of the
company has more or less managed to remain
out of the spotlight. But with media insiders
buzzing about the upcoming profile of editorial
director John Huey in GQ and the promotion of
Ann Moore two weeks ago to chairman and
chief executive officer of Time Inc., the focus
seems to be shifting back to the publishing
side for better or worse.
Trying to pre-empt a mass exodus, the
company’s HR department sent an internal
memo to employees informing them that the
company was “sponsoring a number of focus
groups to gather feedback about the work
experience” of Time Inc. employees and the
“various workplace issues affecting them.”
“I guess this little initiative is meant to make
people think they’re addressing all of this stuff that’s
going on here,” said one high level editor. “The
company did away with profit sharing a couple of
years ago and replaced it with stock options that are
worthless.” Luckily, the source said, many on the
publishing side were smart enough to know that the
Internet bubble was going to burst and “cashed out
right as the merger happened.”
Huey, for his part, is said to be quietly
seeking out journalists who might have less
reason to scorch him than GQ does. The profile
in GQ is thought by some to be payback for a
scathing profile on Condé Nast ceo Steve Florio
that Huey ran four years ago while he was the
managing editor at Fortune.
ERASURE AT ROSIE: In addition to the highly
publicized catfight between Rosie O’ Donnell and
her magazine’s new editor, Susan Toepfer, the
magazine also let go its creative director Doug
Turshen last week. In his place, the magazine has
brought on Holland Utley, a freelance art director
who previously worked for Vogue and the now
defunct Women’s Sports and Fitness. The
appointment, however, is temporary. A
spokeswoman for Rosie said Utley would “help
the magazine through the next couple of closes.”
WEAR YOUR FAVORITE MAGAZINE: Andy Warhol
would have been proud. In a parody of
magazine brand extensions, sportswear maker
Lynn Ritchie has changed the names of popular
fashion reads like “Vogue,” “Bazaar,” and
“Town & Country” to “Vague,” “Bizarre” and
“Lost & Foundry” to create its “Cover Girl” Tshirt. The vivid, multicolored shirt takes its
quirky inspiration from magazine covers from
the Seventies (you can divine the decade from
such cover lines as “Wife Styles: Liberated or
Submissive”). The people at Lynn Ritchie
declined to divulge which models are pictured,
but a look at the shirt reveals such past cover
icons as Cheryl Tiegs and Sophia Loren.
— With contributions from
Jacob Bernstein and Kristin Larson
The
“Cover
Girl” Tshirt by
Lynn
Ritchie.
WWD/DNR
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PATTERNS, SAMPLES,
PRODUCTIONS
All lines,Any styles.Fine Fast Service.
Call Sherry 212-719-0622.
ATTENTION ALL LADIES
MANUFACTURERS!!!
Bonnie is back and looking for ladies
closeout merchandise. Spring, Fall, It’s OK.
One call we take it all. Alliance Wholesale
Corp. 10 West 33rd Street. 212-695-7631
CLOSEOUTS WANTED
We buy any fabrics, even remnants, &
buttons, beads & trims. 212-243-4702.
Fleece-Pola-Sweatshirt
Drake Fabrics. 718-389-8902
ASSOCIATE
DESIGNER
Welcome Manufacturers/Stores
Provide direct sourcing, vertical factory setup, 6 factories including 1 fabric
mill, 1 printing mill, monthly production exceeds 1.5 million pieces, woven,
all kinds of silk products, silk blended,
silk linen, silk cotton, silk cashmere,
silk rayon, linen, linen rayon, cotton,
tencel, denim, etc. products include
dresses, blouses, jackets, skirts, suits,
knit sweaters (spun silk knit, silk cotton, silk cashmere, ramie cotton, acrylic, cotton, etc.), own quota in China,
confirmed P.O. from stores required,
will provide production, shipping, factor, small/large orders welcome, please
fax: 212-719-0109 Attn: Simon
Seeking an Associate Designer for a young men’s denim/
sportswear line. Must have
two yrs experience, be well
organized and able to assist
in all phases of design including flat sketching &
specing. Knowledge of MAC
& IBM programs a must.
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
BEST CAREERS
IN FASHION
RESUMES
Bryant Park Duplex 2000 & 4500 SF
20 Ft Ceilings - Great Windows/Views
SoHo-Sublet Penthouse 2000 FT
Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043
Search-www.manhattanoffices.com
FASHION INDUSTRY SPECIALISTS
Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates
GILBERT CAREER RESUMES
275 Madison Ave NYC 10016
(800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa
www.fashionresumes.com
RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970
Updating/Phone Interviews
PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC.
60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165
(212)697-1282/(800)221-4425
www.resumesforfashion.com
*DESIGNERS:
*Mens Sportwear
$100K
*Outerwear
$100K
*Cut & Sew Wmnswr $40-60K
* TECHNICAL DESIGN:
*Womens Wovens & Knits $50-60
*Mens Sweaters $65K
*Childrens Boys & Girls
$50-60K
*MERCHANDISING MANAGERS
*Mens/Womens or Intimate
Apparel $80-100K
*RETAIL ANALYST/PLANNER $50-80K
*PRODUCTION:
*Bilingual Chinese to $45K
* Childrenswear
to $60K
*Entry Level, Admin Assist, and
Receptionist positions also available.
Call 212-972-9300
Fax 212-697-8637
The Gromwell Group
DESIGN ASST
Major Apparel manufacturer w/ rapidly
expanding Women’s Division seeks a
highly organized, energetic and enthusiastic Assistant Designer (2-3 years
experience) to assist in all aspects of
product development. Responsibilities
include flat sketching (experience on
Adobe Illustrator/Photoshop a must!).
Creating presentation boards, overseeing development of 1st samples, giving
creative input on print colorways,
stripes, and silhouette. Ideal candidate
must have a strong color sense and
attention to detail. Salary commensurate with experience.
Please fax resume to (212) 971-2277
Designer
$40-90K+
SWEATERS
KNIT$
fgellis@winstonstaffing.com
Post your resume at: jobads1.com
email: tomf@gromwell.com
Designer Assist/Bridge
3750 SqFt
GREAT LIGHT * FULL FLOORS
IDEAL FOR SHWRM/OFC/DESIGN
FASHION CORE
BERNSTEINRE
Richard Price
594-1414 x265
NOLITA
Prime retail space, approx. 700 sq. ft.
basement. Move-in condition. 20’
Frontage. For details call (917) 523-6860
Showrooms & Lofts
BWAY
7TH AVE
SIDE STREETS
Great ’New’ Office Space Avail
ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500
Chief Financial Officer
Accounting firm has a LI client ($30+
million) that has an immediate opening for a hands-on CFO to manage
growth opportunity. Qualified candidates should have in-depth knowledge
of integrated G/L, EDI, factoring, weekly cash flow analysis, preparation of
monthly financial statements, manuGrowing North Jersey uniform co. seeks facturing, inventory and operational
administrative/customer service assis- management, cost accounting and comtant. Responsibilities include tracking puters. Background should include:
production, ordering materials & trims. min. 10 years experience (Apparel a+)
customer contact and follow-up. Must directing and supervising of all generbe energetic self starter with excellent al and accounting functions including
organizational & communication skills. cash management, budgets, forecasts
and taxes. Position reports directly to
Fax resume to: 201-460-4471
owners and will be an integral member
of the management team. We offer a
competitive salary, comprehensive
ADMIN
Since 1967 benefits and bonus plans. If you are interested in an outstanding growth opportunity, please E-mail resume in confidence, along with salary requirements, to: CFO@prgmgt.com
Admin. Assistant
W-I-N-S-T-O-N
APPAREL
STAFFING
DESIGN * SALES * MERCH
ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION
(212)557-5000
F: (212)986-8437
Post your resume on jobads1.com
ALLOCATIONS
Young, growing womenswear co. has
opening for outstanding indiv. in allocations dept. Knowledge of prod a +.
Include salary req. Fax: 212-730-0595
Need to be near Javits Center??
W 34th Office/showrm between 10/11th
2500sf. Luxury D/M bldg. $4700
Call Jules @ 800-400-0692 x 19
A/R Chargeback Clerk
Apparel mfr. seeks computer literate
person to handle chargebacks. Duties
include investigation, written & phone
correspondence plus filing. Must have
garment center exp. Please fax resume
Attention M. Osher @ (212) 382-1863
Asst Production
Coordinator
Are you are ready to step up to join a
professional, fun, fast paced import
/domestic production dept? If so, and
you have 1-2 yrs exp., are organized,
have outstanding tracking, communication and computer skills please
forward your resume. Knowledge of
Mandarin a plus. Co. paid benefits.
Fax resume to: 413-622-0718.
SHOES
MERCHANDISE
MANAGER/BUYER
COOLWEAR
A leading junior Sportswear and
Children’s firm is looking for a Kids
Designer . Must be well organized,
detail oriented, and a team player. Minimum
3-5
years
experience
Extended
knowledge
of
screen
printing a plus. Please fax resume to:
(718) 706-0946 Attn ON.
Customer Service $35-$42K
2-3 years plus exp. Department stores.
AS 400/excel
A. Platt *Just Mgmt*
800-544-5878 Agcy www.justmgt.com
Design Assistant
Andrew Marc seeks a creative design
asst. with entry level to 3 yrs. exp. for
the Men’s & Ladies Dockers Outerwear
division. Must be highly organized,
have great sketching & communication
skills, overseas factory knowledge, and
be Mac literate. Fax resume to Patrick:
212-704-0962
Design Associate
"ONE TUFF BABE"
Progressive Jr / Girls’ Jeanswear Co.
seeks an exp’d. design associate. Must
have import & tops exp. Fax resume to
Jerry at: 917-342-9167
•Fully Fashion Knits/Wovens........ $60K
•Wovens Suits & Sportswear .........$45K
SusieJessilyn@aol.com or 212-947-3400
Designer Boyswear $80-100K
Newborn, Infant, Toddler
SusieJessilyn@aol.com or 212-947-3400
Designer
Seeking a creative and motivated Graphic Designer for
the young men’s division;
able to design graphic
logos, etc. Candidate must
be Mac proficient in Illustrator and Photoshop.
Please fax resume to:
212-719-5353
Jean Design Ltd.
DESIGNER
PRODUCT MGR/
TECHNICAL DESIGNER
Coordinating position with a successful swim
wear dsgnr/mfr. Will work with creative designers for multiple lines and handle scheduling, tracking, lab management, sourcing and
pattern making. Computer graphics, PC or
CAD experience required. Send/fax (631-4208836) resume and salary reqs to: Swimwear
Anywhere, Inc., Attn: Director of Admin, 85
Sherwood Ave, Farmingdale, NY 11735. EOE
Email: hrd@swimwear-anywhere.com
Swimwear Anywhere, Inc.
DESIGNER
Successful Dress/Sportswear Co. seeks
seasoned professional designer. Extensive domestic & import fabric knowledge in knit & woven a must. Print
exp. a plus. Good w/trim & strong color
sense. Must be able to do board presentations. Must be a team player. Top
salary & opportunity. Fax resume to:
212-869-0246
Fast paced Jr sptswr co seeks experienced
Jr pro to work w/ merchandiser. Must
be organized, technical, able to source
fabrics/trims and strong sketching ability,
work w/ patternmaker. Fax resume in Company seeks EXPERIENCED EDI
Coordinator in EDI, QRS websites, &
strict confidence 973-535-5605.
bar coding technology. The candidate
will handle ALL aspects of EDI. Duties
include the coordination of customer
master files, styles/colors, UPC codes,
Import Junior/Junior plus woven tops billing and printing of carton labels.
and bottoms company seeks a creative Candidate must have exposure to
designer w/ 3 yrs experience. Must picking/packing, shipping vendor
have great fashion sense, and possess compliance. Please send resume and
tech. skills. Please fax resume:
salary requirements to Kathy at
(212) 869-5047
saraaz4@aol.com
EDI Coordinator/
Clerk
DESIGNER
DESIGNERINTIMATE APPAREL
JONES NEW YORK INTIMATES
Licensed by Madison Maidens Inc.
Designer - Minimum 3 yrs. exp. designing better sleepwear for knit & woven satin/cotton fabrics. Excellent color sense, sketching ability & computer
skills req. (Photoshop/Illustrator/PDM
knowledge). Must be a good communicator, adhere to schedules & be team
player. Please email resume with salary requirements to Julio@jnyi.com.
DESIGNER - KNITWEAR
Fabric Buyer
Established children’s mfr. seeks exp’d
person to purchase and source fabric.
Must possess color sense, knowledge
of testing/approval procedures. Be
detail oriented with good computer
skills. Excellent benefits. Please fax
resume and salary requirements to:
(212) 594-7356
New York’s leading women’s
apparel chain seeks a shoe
merchandise manager / buyer
for our Northern New Jersey
corporate HQ (conveniently
located to NYC, 30 minutes by
bus from Port Authority).
The individual we seek must
have a min of 5 years full merchandising and buying exp in
junior & misses shoes as well
as exp with first cost and market goods.
We offer a competitive compensation and benefits package. For immediate consideration please send resume to:
Mr. Charles
A&E Stores, Inc.
1000 Huyler St.,
Teterboro, NJ 07608
Fax: 201-393-0218
EOE M/F/D/V
Import Assistant
Midtown fabric sourcing & importing
Co. seeks highly organized individual
to follow all phases of production with
overseas. Max 1-2 yrs. exp. in imports
& excellent computer skills are req’d.
Please fax resume with salary req’s
to: (212) 736-7189
IMPORT TRAFFIC MGR
L/C’s-Custom’s Compliance-Documentations
Apparel Staffing, Ltd. Fax (212) 302-1161
JOBS
JOBS
JOBS
1)Designers: N-I-T & 7/16 Girl 2)Merch-Kids
3) Production Mgr or Coord 4) Tech Design
Call (212) 643-8090; Fax: 643-8127 (agcy)
Knitwear/Sweater
Designer
FT/PT/FREELANCE
Great opportunity to work with up-andcoming knitwear company. Look-ing
for strong creative talent. Colorist,
yarn expertise and understanding of
knitting machinery required. Project is
in men’s sweaters. Please contact Neil:
Tel: 212-704-2033 ext. 27
Or Fax: 212-704-2041
Merchandising/Costing Asst.
Entry Level - Est’d. children’s wear mfr.
seeks enthusiastic, organized individual
to join our production staff. Will train
the right person to learn all facets of
production & purchasing. Computer
knowledge a must. Fax resume to
Cindy at: 212-967-4915
NYC ladies better sportswear co seeks:
TECHNICAL DESIGNER
Issue detailed spec package, evaluate
fit, write tech reports, comm w/ pattern
maker, sample studio and overseas factories. Exp’d only. (Job code: TD)
CUSTOMER SERVICE
Exp’d w/good comm skills, knowledge
of charge back, R/A. Position interfaces w/sales & shipping. (Job code: CS)
FAX RESUME WITH JOB CODE TO:
212-391-9641
Office Assistant
Lingerie showroom needs experienced
office assistant. Must be self-motivated
and a team player. Responsibilities include (but not limited to) clerical and
sales support. Fax resume to Human
Resources at: 212-889-8411
Patternmaker
Fast-paced sportswear co seeks
experienced first thru production pro
to work with designer and
merchandiser. Fax resume in
confidence 973-535-5605
PATTERNMAKER
FASHION CAREERS
PRODUCT MGR (jrs+womens)....75-80K
TEXTILE DESIGNER (jeans).......40-50K
TECHNICAL DESIGNER (jrs)......70-75K
EXEC. ASS’T (bi-ling.Italian).........60-75K
ASS’T RETAIL ANALYST..............40-46K
Strong background with production
and fit patterns. Great benefit and
salary package.
Please fax resume to: (212) 391-3803
PATTERNS/SAMPLES
PATTERN MAKER
Non-traditional women’s evening wear
Call 986-7329 or Fax 986-7708
designer seeks high-energy, creative,
dynamic person w/good attitude, open
mind, and min. 1 yr. exp. w/high-end
fabrics. Good salary. True oppty. for
Accredited, leading Colombian men’s, the ambitious.
SAMPLE MAKER - F/T
women’s and children’s apparel manuMajor Knitwear Importer seeks designer facturer needs professional advice, Experience w/luxurious fabrics &
French
seaming. Reliable. Must speak
with outstanding mdsing skills and a from experienced individuals, to deunique flair for forcasting trends to sign store formats and visual merchan- some English. Opportunity for perks
&
bonuses
based on performance.
keep us on top of the market. Must dising practices to develop a Latin
SAMPLEMAKER - Freelance
have exceptional communication and American franchise network.
computer skills plus the ability to
For more info pls. send your resume
Looking for additional reliable help
present major programs.
by fax to 305-682-8655 or E-mail
Aug. thru Nov. Flexible hours.
Please fax resume to: 413-622-0718
Ycoco34@aol.com
Fax resume to: 212-730-2839
Responsible for developing knitwear
product for bridge apparel label, technical design, web and PDM experience
a must. Email resumes in Word format
to hrgeneral1245@yahoo.com
Designer/Merchandiser
"ON THE MARKS"
Franchising Specialist
By Rusty Williamson
DALLAS — Haggar Corp. is courting the junior crowd with
a new moderate sportswear label called World Clothing
Co. that’s launching for holiday and early spring.
The new line is angling for $9 million in first-year
wholesale volume and will be designed and manufactured by Haggar Clothing Co.’s Jerell Ltd. division here,
which Haggar acquired in 1999 as a venue to expand
into women’s apparel.
World Clothing Co. is aimed at 13-to-25 year-old junior customers and will focus on tailored but trendy
pants, a market that Jerell executives view as the most
lucrative segment of the junior business.
“When juniors see the members of Destiny’s Child
wearing three-piece suits, they also want a tailored
look. With World Clothing Co., we’re going way beyond
denim bottoms,” explained Pat McCormick, vice president of merchandising and design at Jerell.
The debut collection includes novelty styles such as
ethnic-inspired jacquards, Seventies sateens and lots of
stretch cotton, including flower-power Sixties’ flares, and
several tailored looks with men’s style waist treatments.
Wholesale prices are $13.50 for simple stretch cotton
trousers to $22.50 for novelty jacquard stretch flairs.
“Inspiration is everywhere, especially in California and
in clubs. You want to tap into the next trend in juniors?
Stand in front of Malibu High School and you’ll see trends,”
said McCormick, an apparel industry veteran who previously created two junior labels, Grass Roots and
Generation X International, before joining Jerell. He also
founded Condor Apparel Company in 1975.
“Young women love novelty bottoms, and there’s a real
void in the market for moderately priced items. Go to a retail store and you’ll find lots at the high end and even
more at the mass level, but not a lot in between. We’re filling that void with World Clothing Co.,” explained Joel
Presser, vice president of sales and marketing at Jerell.
Presser previously founded and managed Presser
Production Coordinator
T-SHIRT DESIGNER
Established Contemporary brand
looking for edgy dependable
design/merchandiser to handle
growing business. Must have 5
years minimum experience,
knowledge of fabrics, trims,
must deliver consistently salable
product. New York City location.
Good benefits, great atmosphere.
Please send resumes to
robert@adriennevictoria.com
PIECE GOODS BUYER $50K
Contemporary Co, Current Mkt Contacts
Must know Yields, Cutting Tickets,
Multi-Task Busy Environ, Cool Co!
Fax Resume Attn Ruth Nally 201-894-1186
E-mail rnally@karlyn.com
KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS
201-871-9800
Min. 3 years exp. in imported sweaters
or wovens, follow-up communications,
product development, costing, specs,
and production schedules. Must be
detail oriented, organized and know
E-mail, Excel/Word. Pls. fax resume to:
(212) 736-1022 or
E-mail: markup@intres.net
Production
Immediate
COORDINATOR $50K
IMPORT ASS’T $35K
jrentner@winstonstaffing.com
Post your resume on jobads1.com
PRODUCTION MGR $75K
Bottoms. Better. Great Co!
Lenore@thefashionetwork.com
201-503-1160
Fax 201-503-1070
RECEPTIONIST
Fast paced showroom needs a hard
working, self motivated individual
looking for an opportunity for growth.
You must possess excellent phone
manners, word processing skills and
be able to operate in a quick moving
environment.
Please fax resume to (212) 221-5909 or
email: sonny@atlast1.com
$40-90K+
fgellis@winstonstaffing.com
Post your resume on jobads1.com
Production Assistant/
CAD Operator
Leading OTC Textile Converter seeks
F/T experienced person for design
development,
modification
and
presentation boards. Textile CAD
experience a must.
Please fax resume to Al: 201-659-9719
PRODUCTION
ASSISTANT
Looking for a reliable and organized Production Assistant to handle fast paced
work environment. Knowledge of WalMart (Consumer Testing Lab) experience
required. References and qualifications a
must. Please fax resume to:
212-730-8432: Attn: Aisha Cowart
in-house,” explained Ed Vierling, president of Jerell.
“When McCormick and Presser approached us, we
knew this was it. We’ve brought them and their idea inhouse. We’re expecting great things from this line. The in-
TD DESIGNERS
*Sweaters (2) ...............................$50-60K
*Cut & Sew.......................................$55K
*Menswear (2) .............................$60-80K
*Wovens ............................................$45K
*Wovens Bottoms/Jeans.................$58K
PDM or Karat Exp+PC Exp A+
SusieJessilyn@aol.com or 212-947-3400
Technical Pattern
Making Assist. to VP of Mfg
Movie Star, Inc. seeks exp. pattern
maker to assist in managing pattern
making dept. Min 10 yrs exp w/ strong
knowledge of graded specs, garment
construction, live model fittings, and
flat sketches. Must be able to solve
technical & operational problems in a
high volume fast paced environment.
Gerber PDS exp. pref. Fax resume
with salary req. to: HR 212-684 3295
Fast paced sptswr co seeks highly expd
pro to orchestrate all facets of production.
Domestic/import experience a must.
Fax resume in strict confidence
212-695-1286.
Private Label Merchandiser
SWEATERS
KNIT$
Two sketches for the World Clothing Co. label.
Production Mgr
Exp’d. & motivated. Also seeking Designers for contemporary career-wear
separates. Fax resume to: 212-564-6166
Production
Associates, an independent sales representative firm.
Prior to joining Jerell earlier this year, Presser and
McCormick conceived the idea for World Clothing Co.
and pitched it to Jerell, which already had plans to
enter the junior market but hadn’t yet come up with a
line.
“We wanted a piece of the junior market but didn’t
want to take the licensing route. We wanted it to be done
2 much LA
Better junior top line needs
salesperson for NY office. 5 yrs exp.
Fax resumes Shelley 213-489-7833
Sales Reps & Designer
Wanted by import house. For men’s
and women’s sportswear. High commission. 5 yrs exp a must. Fax: 888-998-9099
We are looking for a sales manager to
help us launch a Contemporary/ Jr.
Rep. must have strong mass
SWEATER DESIGNER line.
specialty chain, dept. store in
Great American Sweater Co. looking for an market,
territory. Salesperson either
experienced energetic Junior Designer. eastern
provide
showroom or ready to setup
Must be knowledgeable in Imports and
York showroom with us.
Domestic. If you want to work with a New
Contact Michael at: (323) 277-1080 or
great team, please call Sara Smith:
Send resume to: (323) 277-1081
212-221-7460 or fax 212-768-7856
Contemporary/Jrs.
SWEATERS
BETTER PRIVATE LABEL RETAILER
*VP Product Devel ........................$200K
*Director of Product Devel ..........$125K
*Director of Production.......................$125K
*Technical Designers (2) ...........$50-80K
ToddWayne1@aol.com or 212-947-3400
EMBROIDERY/LACE
Established manufacturer seeks exp.
person w/strong following preferably
in the better sportswear market.
Call Eric (212-840-1945) or
Fax resume to: (212) 391-1033
troduction of Haggar’s junior sportswear line comes at a
time when the junior market is saturated with denim.
Female consumers in the 13-to-25-year-old market are offered very few alternatives to the five-pocket jeans business. Haggar is seeking to fill that void with quality, fashionable pants at moderate price points.”
While general business conditions may determine
whether the new line reaches its first-year target of $9
million, the line is on track to meet the goal. Wet Seal,
Vanity Shops, The Buckle and Gadzooks are among the
firms which have previewed and booked it.
To sate the fickle junior consumer, who can embrace
and then discard a trend within six weeks, Jerell plans to
offer stores monthly deliveries of at least four to five fresh
styles of World Clothing Co. The company already has
booked 50,000 units in the first four weeks of line previews
for October and November deliveries.
“When McCormick and Presser approached us with
the idea for World Clothing Co., they knew they had the
marketing, design and sales capability and backgrounds
to create a very big launch,” reflected Vierling. “But they
needed the sourcing, operational and financial muscle
of Haggar and Jerell to execute the line. It’s a perfect fit
for everybody involved.”
World Clothing Co. isn’t the only new launch taking
shape at Haggar. Though details aren’t finalized, the company is planning to roll out a new misses’ tailored fashion
pants collection for spring incorporating the hidden expanding waistbands used in some of Haggar’s men’s wear.
Haggar Clothing Co. is a wholly owned subsidiary of
Haggar Corp., a marketer of men’s and women’s apparel
that generated $444.6 million in revenues in fiscal 2001,
2.7 percent above the prior year. Restructuring costs of
$20.2 million during the year resulted in an $8.7 million
net loss for the year. In the most recent quarter, ended
June 30, Haggar’s sales rose 2.8 percent to $111.2 million
as net income dropped to $460,000.
Haggar holds licenses with Liz Claiborne and DKNY
for various fashion categories.
SOHO COMPAGNIE
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE
We are an experienced and innovative fashion driven company seeking a highly motivated professional
account executive. Strong following with major dept
and chain stores for a new most exciting, updated
missy casual sportswear div. Excellent salary, commission, and benefits. If you want to be part of the action, fax resume:
Attn: Eddie Datwani
Fax: 212-239-6732
EVERLAST
WORLDWIDE INC.
Sales Assistant
Leading Athletic Company seeks a detail
oriented person with strong organizational
& communication skills to assist the
sales team in daily activities (sales
orders, follow up. spreadsheets, samples,
administrative duties, etc). Able to handle
multiple tasks and work well in a very
fast paced environment. Excel, Word
and E-mail knowledge a must. Great
opportunity for the right person. $30k
plus benefits.
Please e-mail resumes to:
rosef@everlast.com or fax to
212-239-4261
F/T-P/T Sales Associate
Lester’s - N.Y.C./L.I. Metro area’s best
upscale children’s, Jrs., & contemporary
women’s retailer seeks highly motivated, fashion oriented Sales Help. Must
possess strong customer service & selling skills. Min. 1 year exp. in high fashion retail sales req’d. Contact Mark at:
Call: 718-375-9213
Or Fax resume: 718-627-3974
Sales Rep Wanted
MANUFACTURER SEEKS Experienced Independent Sales Rep who is
already attending MAGIC SHOW Aug.
26-29 for established French label’s
ladies outerwear line. Commission based.
Pls contact Ms. Niki @ 212.245.8877 or
fax: 212.245.0438
Sales Reps/National
L.A. based mfr. since 1948 seeks exp’d.
ready-to-wear reps with Specialty Store
focus to help launch new collection of
bustiers & tops. Fabulous opportunity.
Fax: 323-261-6693
Sales Reps
Updated missy resort wear line est’d.
since 1979. Need reps who travel. Fax:
305-499-3705
Textile/Men’s Casual Wear
Sales Rep for men’s/women’s specialty
fabric (computer jacquard knit). Also
seek Sales Rep for men’s wear. Fax
resume to June at: 323-269-0090
TOP COMMISSION
Textile Design Studio seeks a
self-motivated salesperson to sell
original designs for home fashions.
Call 212-947-9777
Outerwear Sales
M. Hidary seeks Sales Pro to handle Dept.
Stores and National Accts. N/B-16
VP of Sales/Product Development
Childrens for branded outerwear division.
Pls. call Alan Shamah: (212) 736-6540. Andrea Behar/a.r.b. Production Inc., a
leading production company of sportswear, knits, and denim seeks candidate
with extensive product development
H.F. Mfg, established children’s wear expertise for private label of women’s,
co. seeking exp’d salesperson with
mens and childrenswear. Excellent
established contacts in the mass
compensation, salary, benefits and
merchant market. Excellent package bonuses. If you have strong customer
for qualified person. Fax resume to:
relations with major and direct retailers.
212-594-7356
E-mail resume to Gail@arbehar.com
SALES EXECUTIVE
Ritz Kids
Has just arrived for Spring 2003. If
you’ve ever dreamed of a girl’s knitwear line that sells itself, with styling
that just doesn’t quit, and guaranteed
to blow the competition out of the water,
then we need to talk. Only reps with
dept. store, specialty and mass-market
contacts in girls’ wear need apply. Call
National Sales Manager, Glen Perry at:
212-868-8979
*****APPAREL EMPLOYERS*****
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WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 30, 2002
Haggar’s Junior Offering: World Clothing
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WWD, TUESDAY, JULY 30, 2002
16
For the Record
Full Gallop
“This is my new husband,” Nina Griscom announced,
firmly attached to Calvin Klein’s hipbone as the two
made their way into the Watermill Center benefit on
® Saturday. As the phalanx of paparazzi descended, one
photographer piped up, “I’ll be your husband, Nina.”
“Take Calvin,” Griscom instructed, “he’s got more
money and you’ll never have to shop again.”
Although Griscom’s entrance caused strained necks and a ripple
of whispers throughout the crowd, guests like Patricia Duff, Bianca
Jagger, Anh Duong and Katharina Otto Bernstein found plenty of other
things to watch at the Louis Vuitton-hosted evening — like their bids
at the silent auction, including works by Ross Bleckner, Chuck Close,
Cindy Sherman and Roy Lichtenstein, to benefit the 2003 scheduled
completion of the arts center founded by Robert Wilson.
At a live auction during dinner, Klein bid on a Tracey Emin
painted T-shirt, while Donna Karan and Beth Rudin DeWoody duked
it out over a week’s vacation for six on Asher Edelman’s yacht. A
mere $40,000 later, Karan triumphed.
But Karan’s big win came a few hours earlier. Super Saturday, her
annual designer garage sale, raised over $1 million for the Ovarian
Cancer Research Fund. Karan welcomed frenzied shoppers into her
makeshift “boutique,” but she
wasn’t the only member of the
Karan clan working the crowd.
“My granddaughter’s
performing at 4 o’clock!” Karan
enthused, showing off a T-shirt
with the logo of her granddaughter’s girl group, Blush,
splashed across its front. “Does
anyone know if ‘Entertainment
Tonight’ is still here?”
The following afternoon
wild fillies of another breed
were on display at Jill
Rappaport’s perfectly rustic
Western ranch in Watermill
where the NBC reporter and
Ralph Lauren hosted a
luncheon for renowned horse
whisperer Buck Brannaman.
“Where I come from,”
explained the Montana native
as he broke in Rappaport’s
new filly, “we ride from both
sides of the horse.”
eye
Donna Karan
at Super
Saturday: the
hat is back.
LOS ANGELES — Like
James Brown’s best soul
hits, Mali artist Malick
Sidibé’s photographs
capture the essence of
cool: young men and
women posturing like
peacocks, full of motion
and a lust for life.
Not surprisingly,
Sidibé’s work has been
gaining fans in the
music and fashion industries in recent years
as exhibitions of his
work have traveled
everywhere from
London to Chicago. The
team behind Janet
Jackson’s hit video “Got
‘Til It’s Gone” generously references the aesthetics of Sidibé’s work,
as well as his fellow
Malian Seydou Keita.
And more may follow.
Sidibé’s black-andwhites from the Sixties
and early Seventies are
currently being shown
at the Patrick Painter
A Malick Sadibé photo, circa 1973.
gallery at Bergamont
Station in Santa Monica, Calif., through Aug. 24.
“This guy’s work has really hit a chord with me and so many people,”
says actor Matt Dillon, who took his first-ever turn as curator with the
show. A passionate fan of African-Cuban music, Dillon discovered Sidibé
through a fellow record collector. “There’s so much joy in these pictures,”
he notes. “There’s nothing cynical or jaded about them. There’s nothing
There’s so much joy in these pictures. There’s
“nothing
cynical or jaded about them.
”
— Matt Dillon
Patricia Duff
Calvin Klein and Nina Griscom
Bianca
Jagger
Buck Brannaman, wrangler Ralph Lauren-style.
ironic. They’re very festive, yet very soulful, images.”
Like their Western world counterparts, Mali’s teens, living near
Bamako, where Sidibé lives and continues to work, relish the fashions and
rock ’n’ roll that signal liberation. But besides creating images of a youth
culture that are universal, Sidibé’s work also records the political and social changes that have taken place in Mali since the country became independent from France in 1960.
Although he prefers the controlled environment of a studio — where
subjects would bring in props, particularly their favorite albums — it’s his
stylish shots of teens dancing in the makeshift discos around Bamako that
are particularly telling: A DJ, scarf looped casually around his neck, gives
off a sly charm in front of his turntables; a pair of girls hold up a James
Brown album cover like a coveted trophy.
Born in Soloba, Mali, “around” 1935, Sidibé trained as a jeweler. But at
21, he bought a Kodak Brownie Flash and began accompanying a local
photographer, Gerard “Geegee the Film” Guillat on his rounds. By the
Fifties, in West Africa, commissioning a portrait was a sign of status. And
no portrait was more valued than one by Keita or Sidibé, who would open
their studios, even on Muslim holidays, to a line of hundreds of men,
women and children.
“It’s this special occasion for them,” says Dillon. “There’s this story Malick
has often told about how many of his customers spray themselves with perfume before having their pictures taken. Malick says, ‘Why? They can’t smell
the pictures.’ But that says so much about the experience and the man.”
Kim Heirston and Carol
Mack at Watermill.
Anh Duong in Louis Vuitton
with Dr. Penti Khouri.
D
’A N
TIBE
CA P
Po W
stc WD
ard
So I spent the first
three weeks here very
mellow. Didn’t see a soul
and did this whole spa routine — great trainer who
comes to the house, amazing facialist and masseuse. Lost 15
pounds. It was all about health. But
August is about partying — I got home at
8 a.m. this morning!
This weekend my mother, my sister Serra
and I all went down to St. Tropez. Our
house is on the water so you can go
straight from the house to the boat, and
it only takes half an hour to get there,
but I feel like I’ve gone to the moon and
back. I’m so exhausted!
We swam off the beach at Bastille
Blanche and came into port for lunch —
at Cinquante Cinq, the beach restaurant,
and this new place called Nicki’s Beach
with great sushi and Balinese-style beds
to recline on. Quite a scene at Nicki’s on
Sunday — Sabrina Ramsay, Caroline
S
WATERMILL AND SUPER SATURDAY BY STEVE EICHNER; BRANNAMAN BY ALISON ONEACRE
— Rose Apodaca Jones
20 0
2
Berthet, Elisabeth Kieselstein-Cord,
Masha Mimran, Gianni Pigazzi, Kadee
Robbins, Olga of Greece, Nicolas
Berggruen, Cynthia Kauffman, Serena
Boardman, Dori Cooperman, Adam and
Elizabeth Lindemann and a whole
London crew all there. Saw Puffy at
Cinquante Cinq and then again, speeding
by on top of a sports car. He was sitting
on the roof holding a bottle of champagne. So Puffy!
Rena Sindi has just returned to Cap d’Antibes after a trip aboard the Serenada.