The Iowa Horticulturist
THE
IOWA
Horticulturist
WINTER
07
SUMMER
06
1
3
Iowa State Horticultural Society
President
Secretary-Treasurer
Directors at Large
Gary Twedt, CGCS
641-683-6260
1624 North Court, Ottumwa, IA 52501
gtwedt@lisco.net
Mike Bevins
515-242-5043
Wallace Building, Des Moines, IA 50319
Mike.Bevins@idals.state.ia.
Dr. Eldon Everhart
712-249-3868
1208 Chestnut Street, Atlantic, IA 50022
Jerry Miller
515-285-2723
1164 2nd Avenue, Des Moines, IA 50314
Doug Struyk, J.D.
712-329-3542
219 Carson Avenue, Council Bluffs, IA 51503
Jeff Wendel, CGCS
800-605-0420
The Turf Office, 17017 US Hwy 69,
Ames, IA 50010
Past President
ISHS Coordinator
Barbara Sylvester
515-832-6322
1880 Kantor Avenue,
Webster City, IA 50595-7323
Rae von Holdt
515-795-3216
1875 Peach Avenue, Madrid, IA 50156
Retail Partners
Country Landscapes - Ames & North Liberty
Denny’s Greenhouse - Weaver
Heard Gardens, LTD - West Des Moines
Iowa Arboretum - Madrid
Lehmans Greenhouse - Glenwood
Outdoor Designs, Inc. - Charles City
Pleasant Valley - Iowa City (Garden Center • Flower Shoppe • Golf Course)
Town & Country Market & Garden Center - Slater
Vic Scott Landscaping & Nursery - Des Moines
When you join the ISHS you will be entitled to discounts at these exceptional Iowa
businesses by presenting your ISHS Membership card. To join call 515.242.5043.
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www.iowahort.org
The Iowa Horticulturist
Editor
Eldon R. Everhart
Features Editor
Dorothy B. Brandt-Guyan
Science Editor
Sydney Everhart
Advertising Manager
Subscriptions Mgr.
Kelly D. Norris
Pamela S. Everhart
The Iowa Horticulturist (ISSN 1555-7243) is published quarterly by the
Iowa State Horticultural Society, Wallace State Office Building,
502 East 9th Street, Des Moines, IA 50319.
POSTMASTERS: Send address changes to the Iowa State Horticultural
Society, Wallace State Office Building, 502 East 9th Street, Des Moines,
IA 50319 or email Mike.Bevins@idals.state.ia.us.
The Iowa State Horticultural Society is a tax exempt, nonprofit horticultural
organization under IRS ruling 501(c)5. The information in the magazine is
for the use of gardeners everywhere but it may not be reproduced without
permission. Use of brand, trade, cultivar and business names in this
magazine neither implies endorsement, nor criticism of other similar
items not named. This magazine and its staff accept no responsibility for
the results of following the suggestions given in this magazine.
TO SUBSCRIBE: Send your check to The Iowa State Horticultural
Society, 4225 Fleur Drive, #135, Des Moines, IA 50321. Make your check
to The Iowa Horticulturist. Include the name and address of the person
to whom you want the magazine sent. Subscription $15 per year. Single
copy $5.
TO CONTRIBUTE ARTICLES: Send a copy of your article (preferably with
drawings or photographs) including your name, address and phone
number to the Editor, Eldon Everhart, 1208 Chestnut Street, Atlantic, IA
50022 or by email to everhart@iastate.edu. Manuscripts, drawings and
letters will not returned. If requested, photographs will usually be
returned within 12 months. We assume no responsibility for safe return
of materials.
TO SEND ADVERTISING MATERIALS: Gary Twedt,CGCS, 1624 North
Court, Ottumwa, Iowa 52501, email: gtwedt@lisco.net or phone:
641-683-1735.
TO MAKE COMMENTS: Participation in the magazine is encouraged and
welcome. Communicate ideas, suggestions or comments to the Editor,
Eldon Everhart, by phone (712-249-3868), fax (712-755-7112), mail
(1208 Chestnut Street, Atlantic, IA 50022) or email (everhart@iastate.edu).
SUBSCRIPTION QUESTIONS: Contact Pamela Everhart at 1208 Chestnut
Street, Atlantic, IA 50022, email (pameverhart@mchsi.com) or phone
(712-249-3865).
The News Magazine for Gardeners
10 16
winter 2007
Volume 23, No. 1
Contents 18
COVER PHOTO
WINTER FEATURES
IN EVERY ISSUE
10 Growing Blackberries
4
Letters to the Editor
6
From the Editor’s Desk
6
ISHS President’s Message
by Marion Cain
13 Defining Space in the Garden
by Lisa Nunamaker Orgler
by Gary Twedt, CGCS
14 Lawn Care Facts and Fiction
by Jeff Wendel
16 Rex - King of the Begonias
Winter 2007
Gray mold or Botrytis on blackberry fruit
growing in the garden of Marion Cain.
This common disease is caused by the
fungus Botrytis cinerea. It is capable of
rotting mature or near-mature fruits of
blackberry, raspberry, and strawberry. The
disease is most severe during years with
prolonged rainy and cloudy periods. Read
more about Marion’s trials and tribulations
growing blackberries on page 10.
by Alma Tallman
More About Rex Begonias
by Eldon Everhart
17 This Begonia Winks
7
Calendar of Events
8
State Horticulturist’s Corner
by Mike Bevins
9
Golden Age Gardener
by Dorothy Brandt-Guyan
poem by Alma Tallman
22 Book Reviews
18 Worm Composting
(Vermicomposting)
by Sydney Everhart
by Megan Will
20 2006 ISHS Award Winners
by Gary Twedt
Cover Photo by Marion Cain
21 Aronia Berries are Versatile
by Charlie Caldwell
Visit us online at: www.iowahort.org
The Iowa Horticulturist
WINTER
07
3
TO THE
LETTERS EDITOR
HI PAM,
I received three copies of the fall issue
of The Iowa Horticulturist in an envelope
in the mail. I don’t know why. I did not
order them. I had already received my
subscription copy in the mail.
Joy Smith
jimnjoy@netins.net
Griswold, IA
JOY,
I sent three copies of the last issue to you
because your garden tip was published in
the “Letters to the Editor & Tips from
Gardeners” column in the last issue. Anyone
who has something published in the
magazine gets three copies free! And now,
because we published your letter (above),
you’ll get three free copies of this issue too!
Please share these with friends and family.
Pam Everhart
Subscription’s Manager
HELLO ELDON,
I fancy myself a gardener. I love my
garden and aspire to pay more attention to
it. Being a horticulturist would be inspiring.
I am also a beekeeper. And I am always
looking for nectar-bearing plants. I recently
planted four rows of lavender about 20 feet
long and two linden trees.
But I love all kinds of plant
variations. The article in
the last issue about Kong
Coleus inspires me to find
a few of these plants to set
out in a damp area on
the north side of my house. I have been
searching for plants to grow in that area.
Also, the photos in your magazine are
exquisite. Thank you for the work you
put into The Iowa Horticulturist magazine.
Ann Garber
200 E. South Street
Corydon, IA 50060
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www.iowahort.org
DR. EVERHART,
I received your email about the
Siouxland Flower, Lawn and Garden Show.
This show sounds like the “kick in the
gardening pants” that western Iowa needs.
We have friends who live in Lincoln,
Nebraska and they travel to the Des Moines
Flower, Lawn and Garden Show every
spring. They bitterly complain that there
is nothing like it out around where they
live. The Siouxland Flower, Lawn and
Garden Show should be well attended and
it should also make lots of gardeners happy.
Thank you for sharing your passion.
Ron Reed, President
Iowa Regional Lily Society
3170 “V” Avenue, Waukee, IA 50263
515-987-1157
DEAR DR. EVERHART,
Thank you for introducing us to The
Iowa Horticulturist magazine at the ISU
Extension Master Gardener class you taught
in Woodbury County. I have really enjoyed
the articles and am excited to receive the
next issue.
The article that you wrote about Coleus
was especially interesting. Coleus plants
have grown beautifully near our house for
several years. I now plan to try several of
the cultivars mentioned in the article. I
especially like the idea of mixing them
among perennials in our garden.
“The ‘It’ Garden” article has given
me several creative ideas for next year’s
gardening in our yard. What a window
of creativity is opened by this article.
All this reading about gardening has
spurred me to propagate some house
plants and do even more indoor winter
gardening this year than ever before.
Thank you again for your wonderful
magazine and all you do to share and
spread the pleasures of horticulture!
Marion Cain
PO Box 776
Dakota City, Nebraska 68731
{& Tips From Gardeners}
HI ELDON,
Have you heard the word going around
in compost piles across the state? The other
day, I heard the worms in my compost
talking! They said there was going to be a
display and a presentation about them at
a new garden show in northwest Iowa.
To get ready for the show, my worms
ar52But between bites, they said Sioux
City, Iowa (that’s were
my worms live) is hosting its first ever
Siouxland Flower, Lawn & Garden Show.
My worms said there is going to be
lots of venders selling garden related
products from home greenhouses to
unusual new plants.
They also told me that there will be at
least 17 guest speakers from around the
state talking about everything from landscape design to water gardening. There
will be concurrent sessions both days, all
day long. There will also be events for
kids and much more! I even heard my
worms say that Master Gardeners were
going to be there answering questions.
My worms are counting down the days
to Friday and Saturday, March 23 and 24,
2007. I can’t wait and neither can my
worms. We hope to see you there!
Megan Will
Woodbury County Master Gardener
HI ELDON,
I enjoyed reading the article about
black chokeberry in the fall issue. A few
years ago I contacted Iowa State University
trying to get recipes for Aronia melanocarpa,
black chokeberry. They didn’t, at that
time, seem to know what I meant as they
sent me recipes for black chokeCHERRIES.
I hesitated to use the recipes as I wasn't sure
the chokeBERRIES that I had were edible.
Even though the tag on the chokeberry
plant said “Food for Wildlife,” the birds do
not eat them so I thought maybe I shouldn’t
either. I took a chance and made jelly from
them. It was delicious! But why don’t the
birds eat them?
ELDON & PAM,
I understand that the “Tips from Gardeners” part of this column was Pam’s idea. Below is a list of tips from some of the Polk
County Master Gardeners. These were all collected during one
of our education classes.
Mary Farlow
Master Gardener Internal Program Coordinator
Polk County ISU Extension
Black Chokeberry
Photos by Pamela Everhart
Photos taken on August 16, 2006
I really like the bush. It has stayed compact in size
and doesn’t send up shoots everywhere like some other
shrubs. It is pretty when it flowers and is attractive
when it is loaded with clusters of black berries.
Joy Smith
jimnjoy@netins.net
Griswold, IA
JOY,
As you now know, black chokeBERRIES are edible.
You can use them the same way you use any berry in
recipes for jelly, jam, bread, etc.
You are correct. If not harvested by people, black
chokeberry fruit will usually stay on the plant all winter.
The fruit is consumed in early spring by fruit-eating
birds such as robins, cardinals, and cedar waxwings.
So, why don’t the birds eat them in the fall or winter?
Good question. The name “chokeberry” comes from
the astringency of the fruit. Astringency is the dry,
mouth-puckering sensation caused by chemicals in
the fruit known as tannins. Tannins cause a rough
“sandpapery” sensation in the mouth. Tannins are
found in some wines and teas.
Back to your bird question, some reference books
claim that birds do not taste astringency. I’m not an
expert when it comes to birds, but I do know from personal experience that chokeberry fruit is less astringent
after they have been through a couple of autumn frosts.
If you harvest the fruit in the fall, then freezing them
before you use them will also reduce their astringency.
I’d love to hear from all of you that have had experience with chokeberry and from anyone who knows
more about the taste preferences of birds. But for now,
I will leave it up to you to draw your own conclusions.
Eldon Everhart
Editor
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Add compost regularly to improve heavy clay soils.
Clean garden tools with sand and oil.
Grow beans on sides of tomato cages with tomatoes inside the cages.
Hang old CDs in garden to scare away birds.
Hospital scrubs make good garden wear.
Label seeds for re-use once package is gone. Otherwise, you forget
what's what.
7. Make cages for tomatoes from rebar used for concrete. It's strong.
8. Make your own fruit tree limb weights from a concrete mixture poured
into egg cartons with wires to hang them in place.
9. Mark shovel handle with inch/feet markers to always have quick
measurements in the garden.
10. Mow grass short in fall to keep leaves from sticking.
11. Mulch tomatoes with grass clippings on top of newspapers.
12. Places tomato cages over lilies in fall to protect them from deer in spring.
13. Plant seeds with right lead times so plants don't get too big too soon.
14. "Poor man's seeder" made from pvc pipe and a two liter pop bottle.
15. Protect your skin from the sun to avoid skin cancer.
16. Put banana peel in hole when planting roses to add potassium.
17. Share stakes between two tomato cages.
18. Tie grass together with twine before cutting.
19. To pre-soak seeds, put them in baby food jars with water and then place
jars on furnace vents to keep warm.
20. Tour beautiful gardens for inspiration.
21. Use a burlap bag to clean dirt from tools, then use spray oil.
22. Use clear plastic cup to shelter new plants when spraying weeds.
23. Use corn gluten meal as an organic garden fertilizer and herbicide.
24. Use dryer sheet in container bottoms and to drain water from jars.
25. Use golf tees to mark where bulbs are planted. That way when you add
bulbs in the fall, you will know where existing bulbs are.
26. Use hedge sheers to cut back ornamental grasses in spring.
27. Use inverted pots to cover new plants when adding mulch.
28. Use mirrors to expand visual garden space.
29. Use nutcracker to grip when turning tight hose couplings.
30. Use old socks filled with rocks for limb weights.
31. Use rain barrel to capture rain water, it's good for plants.
32. Use solar powered revolving colored balls to repel rabbits.
33. Use toilet paper tubes around tomato stems to keep cutworms away.
34. Use twigs to fence out rabbits. It looks nice and it’s cheap.
35. Wear gloves when pruning to protect your fingers when sawing.
Send your comments to Dr. Eldon Everhart at everhart@iastate.edu or
1208 Chestnut Street, Atlantic, IA 50022. The editor reserves the right
to edit, shorten, or refuse to publish any of the letters or e-mails received.
The Iowa Horticulturist
WINTER
07
5
ISHS
PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE
Make plans to attend
the All Iowa Store at the Home and Garden
Show in Des Moines February 7 though 11,
2007. We will have all the traditional Iowa
home made and home grown horticulture
products at the store, along with an All Iowa
Wine Store where you can taste some of
Iowa’s best wine to buy and take home. As
Iowa vineyards have been increasing each
year, the quality of wine and selection is
greatly increasing also. We are in a warm
FROM THE
EDITOR’SDESK
Its a stretch for me to write about women
in horticulture; I’m a man. But that detail won’t stop me.
Held back by societal pressures, women have had fewer
opportunities to excel. Even so, horticulture has its share of
exceptional women.
By the time Jane Colden (1724-1766) was 34 years old, she
had described over 400 plants using the “new” binomial naming
system. Jane Wells Loudon (1807-1858) wrote 19 books on
gardening and botany. Gertrude Jekyll (1843-1932) definitely
had the most influence on 20th century gardening in the U.S.
and England. Beatrix Jones Farrand (1872-1959) designed
over 200 projects including gardens for the Rockefellers, the
White House, and the New York Botanical Garden.
There are far too many talented modern-day women in horticulture to mention here. For example, one-third of the faculty
members in the horticulture department at Iowa State University
are women. Most of them have Ph.D.’s and national reputations.
According to the National Academy of Sciences, 29.1% of the
3,400 Ph.D.’s in biological sciences produced in 1981 were earned
by women. Twenty years later, the figure had risen to 44.8%.
In a few more years, my daughter Sydney will be included
in those statistics. In the mean time, you can read her book
reviews in this issue or attend the Shade Tree Short Course
and hear her talk about her tree canopy research.
Dr. Eldon R. Everhart, Editor
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winter weather pattern this year, so hopefully we will have mild
temperature in early February for the Home and Garden Show to
get us thinking about spring.
One of the things to look forward to beat down the winter
blues is the spring catalogs that start coming in mid-January.
Another way to lift your spirits is to take a brisk walks on cold
sunny days. There is nothing better to energize your spirits than
exercise and the healing power of natural sunlight. I would highly
recommend anyone who is near the Boone or Madrid area to take
the time to drive to the Iowa Arboretum during this time. They
have well maintained paths and the ornamental grasses are still
beautiful, especially with a little snow cover on them. While you
are there, take time and visit the gift shop where they have everything you would need for the upcoming spring planting. I am a big
fan of garden books, and the Iowa Arboretum has a great selection.
If you really want to get fired up for the coming spring, take
the time to stop at the Iowa State Horticultural Society website
iowahort.org and click on the Master Gardener link at the very
bottom of the left column of the home page. It will take you to
an Internet garden forum message board that is second to none
anywhere. Three Master Gardeners (Russ Hoffman, Gretchen
Triplet, Dr. Felicitas Avendano) helped put the site together and
the Story County Master Gardener Association do a very good
job with answering garden questions on the site; especially MGLisa
(you are allowed to be anonymous) who really spends a lot of
time researching garden problems and questions. There is also a
series of articles you can read to break up the winter doldrums.
You can just view the questions posed and answered or you can
join in the fun by signing up for this free forum and type in your
questions or tell about your successes or past plant problems.
They have a great tutorial on how to use the site and after a little
practice you can become a message board professional.
It is also my pleasure to mention a special guest we had at our
ISHS Awards and Business Luncheon last November. Our new
Secretary of Agriculture, Bill Northey, took time from his very
busy schedule to address the horticulture associations represented
that day. Bill seems like a very personable guy and hopefully ISHS
will build a great relationship with him over the next few years. We
wish our new Secretary all the success to improve Iowa’s horticulture
and agriculture industries. I would also like to congratulate Barb
Osborn on her ISHS Honor Award and Doug Struyk for his ISHS
Merit Award. The Presidential Citation was awarded to Jeff Wendel,
Barbara Sylvester, Mike Bevins, and Jerry Miller. You can read
about all these outstanding individuals and much more in this issue.
And by the way, a subscription to The Iowa Horticulturist
magazine would make a great gift. You may want to give a
subscription to anyone you missed on your holiday gift list.
Reading this magazine is another great way to lift your spirits.
Respectfully,
Gary Twedt, CGCS
President of the ISHS
Calendar of Events
JANUARY
MARCH
APRIL
Jan 15 – How to Grow Organic Vegetables,
Mahaska County Extension Office, 641-673-5841
Jan 25-26 – Vegetable & Fruit Growers Conference,
Marshalltown, 515-465-5992
Jan 27 – Rejuvenating Your Houseplants,
Bickelhaupt Arboretum, Clinton, 563-244-7100
Jan 29 – Seed Starting Made Easy,
Mahaska County Extension Office, 641-673-5841
Jan 29-31 – Iowa Turfgrass Conference,
Des Moines, http://www.iowaturfgrass.org/
Mar 4 – What's Wrong with that Plant? Can I Fix it?,
Iowa City, melaniehaupert@msn.com
Mar 6 -- Bearded Iris,
Mahaska County Master Extension Office, 641-673-5841
Mar 10 – The Art of Gardening,
Muscatine, 800-992-0894, lemaster@iastate.edu
Mar 13 -- Get Excited about Water Features,
Mahaska County Extension Office, 641-673-5841
Mar 13-14 – Shade Tree Short Course,
Ames, 515-294-6222, ucs-info@iastate.edu
Mar 17 – Seeds to Soup,
Bickelhaupt Arboretum, Clinton, 563-244-7100
Mar 17 -- Gardeners Seminar,
Fort Dodge area, 515-576-2119, jlpatton@iastate.edu
Mar 16-18 – Iowa Flower, Lawn & Garden Show,
State Fair Grounds, Des Moines
Mar 20 -- Peonies with Elvin Mackerman,
Mahaska County Extension Office, 641-673-5841
Mar 21 – Spring Equinox,
Bickelhaupt Arboretum, Clinton, 563-242-4771
Mar 23-24 – Siouxland Flower, Lawn & Garden Show,
Sergeant Bluff, 712-276-2157
Mar 24 – Creative Gardening Series,
Cedar Rapids, 319-377-9839, benesh1@iastate.edu
Mar 24 – Pruning Trees & Shrubs Workshop,
Tripoli, 319-882-4275, hamer@iastate.edu
Mar 27 -- Prairie with Wendy Munson-Scullin,
Mahaska County Extension Office, 641-673-5841
Mar 31 – Creative Gardening Series,
Cedar Rapids, 319-377-9839, benesh1@iastate.edu
Apr 1 – Containers, Gardens in All Sizes for All Places,
Iowa City, melaniehaupert@msn.com
Apr 28 – Living Wreath Workshop,
Tripoli, 319-882-4275, hamer@iastate.edu
FEBRUARY
Feb 10 – Garden Chautauqua,
Postville, 641-394-2174, bhauer@iastate.edu
Feb 10 – Master Gardeners Public Symposium,
Independence, 319-334-7161, dslau@iastate.edu
Feb 11 – Order and Creativity in the Garden,
Iowa City, 319-351-1149, melaniehaupert@msn.com
Feb 17 – Horticulture in the Heartland,
Clinton Community College, 563-244-7100
Feb 24 – Winter Gardening Fair,
Cedar Rapids, 800-332-2055,
www.extension.iastate.edu/linn
Please mention that you read about
these events in this magazine.
JUNE
Jun 23 – Pond Construction & Considerations,
Tripoli, 319-882-4275, hamer@iastate.edu
LIST YOUR EVENTS
in the next issue FREE!
There is no charge for this service. Send
the date, title or short description of the
event, sponsor, city or town of the event,
and telephone number and/or e-mail
address of contact person to:
Dr. Eldon Everhart
1208 Chestnut Street
Atlantic, IA 50022
everhart@iastate.edu
Listings will not be published if they are
not in the three line format as in the list
above. The editor reserves the right to
edit the listing for length or to not publish
the listing.
The Iowa Horticulturist
WINTER
07
7
STATE
HORTICULTURIST’S
CORNER
By
Mike Bevins
State Horticulturist
Wallace Building, Des Moines, IA 50319
phone: 515-242-5043
email: Mike.Bevins@idals.state.ia.us
Almost all of the statewide organizations that make up the ISHS
(Iowa State Horticultural Society) were
established long before I started as the
State Horticulturist in 1998. But I was
able to be part of the formation of the
Iowa Wine Growers Association, which is
the most recent organization to join the
ISHS in 2001.
Answering the need for more support
of the rapidly expanding farmers markets
in Iowa, I was able to help facilitate the
formation of the Iowa Farmers Market
Association. Iowa now joins ten other
states that have statewide farmers’ market
associations.
Statewide associations are usually part
of a national association that supports
and represents that sector of horticulture
and works for its continued success. The
farmers markets were the exception as no
national organization represented farmers
markets exclusively. I was honored to be
asked to serve on the board of directors for
the newly formed national Farmers Market
Coalition (FMC). The FMC is a dedicated,
hardworking, and diverse group of market
managers, market vendors, state association
directors, government representatives, and
educators from around the country.
We had our first serious working session
in mid-October, 2006, as we gathered in
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Nevada for two days of strategic planning.
Strategic planning can easily be a waste
of time when it turns into hours of “what
if ” and people fantasize about a perfect
world where time and money are no
problem. But in reality, time, money
and other resources are limited. Effective
strategic planning accepts those constraints
and creates a realistic plan. Fortunately we
had contracted with an excellent facilitator
who was proficient in bringing together a
wide variety of ideas, concepts, and viewpoints in the real world setting.
Iowa now joins with
ten other states that
all have statewide
farmers’ market
associations.
We started discussing the mission
statement to create a brief but concise
statement of the core purpose of the
organization. However, we didn’t want to
complete this task until the strategic
planning process was finished.
Strategic planning started with SWOT
analysis to identify the Strengths,
Weaknesses, Opportunities, and Threats
to the organization. The focus was on
the dual tasks of developing an internal
structure and plan for sustainability of
the organization as well as the external
task of supporting farmers markets.
SWOT analysis helped us to identify the
goals where we could be most effective in
supporting farmers markets. After setting
broad goals, we added more detail by
devising specific actions to accomplish
those goals.
Next we developed a timeline for the
next twelve months. We also determined
who would be responsible for which actions.
In the end we were successful in
developing a plan that will allow the FMC
to ensure that farmers markets benefit
farmers, consumers, and communities.
My position as the State Horticulturist has
its fair share of frustrations. However,
it also provided me with the unique
opportunity to participate in the rewarding
and enriching experience of forming a
national farmers’ market organization.
The
GoldenAge Gardener
Perhaps gardening is so
much a part of your life
you can’t imagine a season without gardening. However, if for some reason, such as
physical impairment, weary bones, or the
cumulative effect of years in general,
pleasure is being replaced by pain or
discomfort, you need to make an honest
evaluation of your situation.
Rethink the size of your gardening space.
How many plants of how many different
vegetables do you really need to plant?
Perhaps one or two plants of your favorite
vegetable or two are enough. If your garden
is limited even further, consider plants
that will climb a trellis so your vegetable
or flower is more reachable and takes less
space. This does not apply as well to people
gardening from their wheelchairs as there
too much bending and reaching. Raised bed
can mean just a few inches by framing an
area and filling it with good soil. However,
for the wheelchair gardener, raised beds
need to be tabletop height.
If you are feeling that this is still just
too much work, you can cut down on the
size of your garden space even more. May
be all you need are a couple of window
boxes. Just don’t give up your gardening
urges all together. With some planning,
even window boxes and containers can
have several successive plantings and grow
more than one or two plants.
If “Where did I put that?” is a regular
part of your vocabulary for garden tools
that seem to disappear when laid down,
then perhaps painting the handles a bright
color will help. Choose a color such as
yellow or orange that will show up easily
in the dirt or in the grass.
If you hear yourself saying “oops” too
often, perhaps it would be wise to give up
By
Dorothy Brandt-Guyan
Princeton, Iowa
using power tools. Power tools are heavy
and can do a lot of work quickly; even too
quickly sometimes. Our reaction times
become slower as we age. Let someone
else use these tools and minimize your
own risk of injury. It may be time to have
someone younger use your rototiller and
power pruners or hedge sheers.
Don’t try to do too much at one time.
Instead, plan several shorter gardening
sessions. Have one in the morning and
one in early evening. Both are prime times
to be outside and it’s usually cooler.
The home gardening market has many
tools, or adaptations to tools, that may
help. Look for tools marked or labeled
Ergonomic. Ergonomics is the study of
problems people have adapting to work,
or making working conditions to suit the
worker. Some examples you will find are
tool handles made longer to allow you to
stand straighter and larger handles to
make them easier to grip.
Kneeling can be a problem. You can
try the kneepads that fasten to your knees
to ease your discomfort. There is also a
combination of kneeler pad and a garden
seat that has advantages. With a foam
cushion on both sides of the seat, turning
it one way or the other, allows you to sit
or kneel more comfortably. The hand
rails help you get up or down.
If turning on or off the outside water
faucet is difficult because of the grip
needed, look for an extension, a bar that
attaches to the open/close knob, to give
more leverage. This allows you to more
easily turn the faucet off and on.
You can make a handy carrying basket
by cutting part of a side out of a gallon
milk jug. The plastic can be cut more easily
if you fill the jug with hot water and let it
sit for a few minutes to warm the plastic.
Cut out a section opposite the handle and
part way down the side of the jug. Cover
the cut edge with duct tape for comfort.
Run a belt through the handle and around
your waist. You can use this homemade
basket to carry seed packets, string, tissues,
hand tools, and even small produce or
flowers leaving your hands free for better
balance or another task.
Clothing brings to mind long-sleeved
shirts, hats with wide brims, and garden
shoes. Shoes need to be comfortable and
safe. Loose fitting worn-down shoes may
be a temptation, but any gardener is safer
in shoes that provide support to the feet
and ankles. Crocs? are great if you want
to buy special shoes. I’m sure you have
seen them. They are a plastic slide-on
clog with lots of toe room. They come in
many bright colors. There is one style
that has a convertible strap which can be
worn behind the heel or forward for a
slip-on clog. They are lightweight and
washable, even at the outdoor faucet.
If you have thought all these options
through and still aren’t sure you want to try
any gardening, consider asking a gardening
neighbor if he/she would like to use your
garden space in return for table use of the
produce. This is a win/win situation.
Therapeutic Gardening: Gardening Tips for Older Adults, RG 0107, describes
ideas and tools that help people continue gardening as they grow older. It is
available at no charge from your county ISU Extension office and the Internet:
http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/RG107.pdf
The Iowa Horticulturist
WINTER
07
9
1
2
3
Growing
Blackberries
By
Marion Cain
Marion Cain is a wife, mother of 6, grandmother of 2,
office manager of their family business and lives in
Dakota City, Nebraska. She grew up on a farm in north
central Nebraska and has literally gardened all her life.
Marion is a ham radio operator, private pilot and loves
to garden, cook, sew, and teach children. Some of her
favorite things to grow are roses, lilies, berries and
violets. “Learning new things is the spice of my life,
so I’m frequently trying something new.” Please feel
free to contact her via e-mail at marioncain@mac.com
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JUNE 2002 – YEAR ONE
Berries are one of the favorite things that
we grow in our garden. We have enjoyed
homegrown strawberries and red raspberries
for years. Our children and grandchildren
love eating berries fresh from our garden.
More than ten years ago, I had my first
taste of homegrown blackberries from a
friend’s backyard garden in California.
We picked berries and make delicious
blackberry jam. I have always remembered
that incredible taste! But I never dreamed
of being able to grow blackberries in my
own garden in the northeast corner of
Nebraska in USDA hardiness Zone 4.
In the spring of 2002, we had just
finished redesigning our garden space. It is
about twenty feet wide and 125 feet long.
The largest area on the west end, just north
of our driveway, was set aside for flowers.
The area north of our house is for flowers
and asparagus. The eastern section was
divided into four growing spaces four feet
wide with two and one-half feet wide pathways. Growing areas were made with scrap
4 by 4 lumber stacked two high. Other
than the shade from our house, the entire
garden area is in full sun. Soil testing showed
that our soil has a pH of 7.5, slightly alkaline.
Our garden area is a bit sheltered being
situated within the limits of the town of
Dakota City, Nebraska, just across the
Missouri River from Sioux City, Iowa.
Browsing at the garden center, I was
stunned to see blackberry plants labeled
for USDA Zone 4. Four blackberry plants
were purchased from Earl May Nursery
and planted three feet apart in a four
feet wide raised bed. Two plants each of
‘Chester’ and ‘Black Satin’ were selected.
‘Chester’ is considered to be one of the
more winter hardy and productive thornless
cultivars (varieties) available, producing
large, high-quality fruit that ripens in early
to mid-August. The fruit has excellent
flavor and does not soften or lose its shiny
black color in hot weather. The ‘Chester’
plants that I purchased were vigorous and
show resistance to cane blight.
‘Black Satin’ blackberries produce large,
luscious berries with unique tart/sweet
flavor. The berries lose their glossy shine
when fully ripe in early August. Although
self-pollinating, they are more productive
with a second cultivar planted nearby.
The plants made only a small amount
of growth during the first year. The plants
were tied up with a small bamboo stake
that came with the plant.
SUMMER 2003 – YEAR TWO
The second spring, the blackberries
began to grow rapidly. We used cages
made of concrete reinforcement mesh
that was bent into a circle about two and a
half feet in diameter and five feet high. A
supporting fence built five feet tall was
erected down the middle of the row to
help support the semi-trailing canes. The
plants bloomed and set on lots of fruit.
The first berries began ripening by August
10. It was a big challenge to wait to pick
the berries until they turned black and
were completely ripe. The plump berries
3
Opposite Page:
1) Red raspberries in blue bowl
2) Bowls full of freshly picked
blackberries. A long shoe string
or small rope attached to berry
picking pail keeps the container
in place around your neck while
both hands are free to pick or
hold and branch and pick.
3) Marion’s son Scott with
hands full of red raspberries
This Page:
3) Fruit garden designed using
double high 4x4 lumber, 4 foot
wide beds and 2 1/2 foot wide
pathways photo taken
September of 2002
4) Marion standing near
blackberries, last year’s canes
loaded with fruit while new
growth is growing overhead
4
were large and flavorful, but very tangy if
not completely ripe.
Picking blackberries is best achieved by
tipping the fruit gently to the side. If the
blackberry is ripe it will come off the
branch easily. The time from when the
blackberries begin to turn ripe until they
are completely ripe is noticeably longer
than the red raspberries we have grown
for years. I now realize that we picked
most of our first blackberries before they
were ripe enough.
After the harvest in 2003, the canes that
had fruited were cut out. This was done to
stimulate the growth of the new canes and
to remove potential sources of diseases.
SUMMER 2004 – YEAR THREE
The blackberries thrived and put on
a bountiful crop of fruit in August and
September in 2004. The fruit kept well
for three or four days in the refrigerator.
We were able to pick three large bowls of
fruit every three or four days. Fruit not
used by the time the next picking was ready,
was slipped into a zip lock bag and frozen.
We tried many new blackberry recipes
making blackberry deserts, syrups and even
blackberry vinegar. Blackberry vinaigrette
dressing is wonderful!
The growth from the new canes was
unbelievable! We attached an additional row
of fencing above the first using a second
six-foot steel post double clamped onto the
top of the first post. Through July and
August, when the new canes were growing,
it was a real challenge to tie up the new
growth. We are learning to patiently wait
for the fruit to get riper with a sweeter taste
before we pick them. The canes that bore
fruit were cut out and discarded at the end
of the season.
SUMMER 2005 – YEAR FOUR
The summer of 2005 provided us with
another beautiful crop of blackberries!
We had all we could eat and plenty to
share and freeze.
(continued on next page)
The Iowa Horticulturist
WINTER
07
11
6
Blackberry Delight
SUMMER 2006 – YEAR FIVE
Trouble in Paradise! The entire tops of
our blackberry canes winter killed. None
of the canes survived the winter. However,
new growth sprouted up from the roots in
late spring letting us know the plant roots
had survived. I didn’t expect fruit, but
blossoms appeared and fruit set.
Later I realized that these stems were
small and weak. As the berries ripened,
the weak first year branches collapsed under
the heavy fruit load and fruit began to mold
and rot even before it was ripe. The fungus
spread to the other fruit and leaves,
damaging much of the crop.
FUNGUS SPREADS TO LEAVES
In the fall of 2006, in the Master
Gardener program offered by Iowa State
University Extension, I learned that it would
have been wise to trim off the blossoms
and not let the blackberries bear fruit this
year. Consequently, we pruned out the
canes that bore fruit as well as the smaller
canes in each plant, thus thinning the
growth to allow for better air circulation.
Additionally, we removed the leaves and
discarded them to help reduce the amount
of disease that might overwinter.
Blackberries have been a great learning
experience and an incredible amount of
fun. Even with a poor blackberry harvest
in 2006, we were able to enjoy the frozen
fruit from last year and loads of red raspberries. Hopefully, 2007 will be a better
blackberry year.
If you don’t already grow blackberries,
then you may want to try some. However,
be warned that blackberries are very
addictive and everyone in your neighborhood will be asking for a sample!
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7
After the fruit was all picked, the old canes
were cut out and the new canes had grown
so big it was a challenge to tie them up, it is
nearly impossible to get to the fence above
the blackberries. Our son helped me build an
outer wire to drape the canes over and lift
them up. We did this at the end of September
after cutting out the old canes. Our favorite
recipe is a dessert called blackberry delight.
Blackberry Delight Recipe
8
9
10
Top to bottom:
6) Marion and her son Michael
tamed the blackberry jungle. There
are only four blackberry plants
and they are over six feet tall!
7) Salad garden and fruit garden
by late June 2005
8) Tender branches bent under the
weight of the crop caused some
berries to mold before they ripened
9) Fungus disease spread on leaves
10) Marion with blackberries and
strawberries in her garden
Crust:
1/2 cup butter
1 cup flour
1 cup pecans
Preheat oven to 350˚ F. Combine crust
ingredients in food processor and lightly pat
into bottom of a 9”x13” baking pan. Bake
until golden brown, 10 to 20 minutes.
Filling:
2 cups sugar
1/2 cup water
5 to 6 cups blackberries, fresh or frozen
5 1/2 tablespoons corn starch
Combine sugar, cornstarch and water in
saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring
until sugar is melted and mixture thickens.
Add blackberries stirring frequently. Bring to
boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 3 minutes.
Cool. Spread into crust. Chill.
Topping:
2 cups powdered sugar
Three 8 oz. packages cream cheese, softened
Mix together sugar and cream cheese
until light and fluffy, spread over blackberry
layer after filling has chilled several hours.
Cover and refrigerate until served. Serve
with dollop of whipped cream and a fresh
blackberry if desired. Or use a slightly frozen
one to decorate the top.
DEFINING
SPACE
In the Garden
Arbors, Pergolas, and Trellises
Example of an arbor
with a bench and gate.
A pergola with benches. Photo taken at
Reiman Gardens, Iowa State University.
pace is an essential part of a
great garden. Plants such as
roses or vegetables, or special
objects like a bench or garden art,
occupy space in a garden. A good
way of defining space or setting
physical boundaries is by using
garden structures such as arbors,
pergolas, and trellises.
S
A trellis attached to an exterior wall. This is a great
way to add interest to a blank surface.
ARBORS
PERGOLA
TRELLIS
An arbor is a freestanding, plant supporting structure with an open roof and at
least two walls. Arbors can create a small
shady area for a bench, act as a focal point,
function as an entry point, or even serve
as a transition between gardens. The roof
can be arched, flat, or peaked.
Early garden books trace the arbor to
ancient Egypt and Rome, but the arbor had
the greatest influence on Renaissance garden
design. At that time it was popular to
intertwine art and nature, which made the
arbor a perfect solution for Renaissance
gardeners. Vining fruits, vegetables, and
flowering ornamentals were the earliest
plants grown on arbors.
Today use an arbor as a “doorway” into
the yard or attach a gate for more detail.
Add a third wall to the back of the arbor,
set a bench inside and create a quaint
secondary space within the garden.
A pergola is a series of arbors that create
a tunnel-like structure for supporting plants.
A pergola is composed of a roof and can
have either two sides closed or one open
and one closed, depending on its function
in a particular garden. If both sides are
closed it serves as a corridor from one space
to another. If one side is closed, the open
side typically faces a garden space and acts
as both an edge and a shaded place for rest.
The ancient Egyptians also used pergolas
to support plants and provide shade. At
that time, a two-sided pergola may have
separated the functional kitchen garden
from the decorative portion of the garden.
One could walk between the gardens, but
the pergola blocked the view from one
garden into the other.
In the late nineteenth century, use of
the pergola continued. Garden designer,
Gertrude Jekyll and architect Edward Lutyens
combined horticulture and architecture
with the inclusion of pergolas in many of
their designs.
Use of pergolas has changed little from
ancient Egypt. Today gardeners use pergolas
to define space, create a connection between
gardens or to serve as an extension of their
homes into the garden.
A trellis is a decorative structure of
open latticework used to support climbing
plants and define space without enclosing
it. Initially used in ancient Chinese and
Roman gardens, trellises became popular
in Europe, especially in France during the
seventeenth and eighteenth centuries when
they were used as ornate freestanding
structures or part of a wall decoration.
Today, gardeners commonly use trellises
to add a vertical dimension to their gardens
or to create a focal point in a small space.
For an especially unique space, use a common objects such as an old window or door
rather than a traditional latticework trellis.
By
Lisa Nunamaker Orgler
Reiman Gardens
Iowa State University,
1407 Elwood Drive,
Ames, Iowa 50011,
phone: 515-294-2710
Although arbors, pergolas, and trellises
have changed a bit over the years, they
continue to serve their original purpose of
defining spaces. Whether using a trellis to
enhance a rose garden, placing a reading
bench in an arbor, or creating an edge in
a vegetable garden with a pergola, these
structures can help create useful and unique
garden spaces.
The Iowa Horticulturist
WINTER
07
13
Healthy Turfgrass and proper
maintenance limit erosion
and surface runoff, protecting
water quality
Lawn Care
Facts&
recently read a newspaper article
I
written by an individual who refuses
to use fertilizer and chemicals on his
lawn based on his principles. However,
University research has shown that his
principles are based on flawed assumptions
and misinformation.
It is true that fertilizers and chemicals
can “find their way” into streams, rivers,
and lakes. But when they do, the reason
is most often due to an improperly made
application or soil erosion. Research by Dr.
Thomas L. Watschke at Pennsylvania State
University showed that fertilizer applied to
turfgrass stays in place. That study has been
duplicated and confirmed by researchers at
Kansas State University and at the University
of Wisconsin, Madison. The problem comes
when fertilizer is accidentally applied to
hard surfaces such as sidewalks, streets and
driveways and isn’t cleaned up properly.
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The statement in the newspaper article
that “grass is the cultivated plant covering
the largest land mass in the nation” simply is
not true. An independent study conducted
by the National Agricultural Statistics Service
showed that Iowa has more than 12 million
acres of corn and 10.8 million acres of
soybeans but only about 1.4 million acres
of turfgrass. Nationally, the corn acreage is
more than 90 million acres.
The newspaper article states that
Kentucky bluegrass “enjoys basking in a
wet 60 degrees.” This isn’t true either and
to say that grasses “enjoy” something is just
bad science. The truth is Kentucky bluegrass will go dormant during periods of
drought and high heat, but the grasses’
ability to recover when the weather changes
is excellent. Excessive irrigation is not good
for turfgrasses. Deep, infrequent irrigation
will yield the best quality turf.
Above Left: Downspouts directed onto a large turfgrass area slow and filter rainwater
Above Right:Unmanaged areas lead to reduced erosion control and depressed
property value
Phosphorus is a problem for lakes and streams, but the problem
comes mostly from erosion of soil particles. Phosphorus binds
to soil particles that in turn may be washed into storm sewers
and beyond.
Agriculture has made great strides in controlling erosion. Most
farmers now use grass waterways and grass buffer strips to hold
soil in place and prevent soil erosion.
When a lawn is ignored to the point of being full of “spurge,
crabgrass, prickly lettuce, and other weeds” the next step is bare
ground. Weeds like crabgrass die as the day length shortens in the
fall and temperatures cool. What’s left is a patch of bare soil, highly
susceptible to erosion. Most soils in Iowa are high to very high in
phosphorus and erosion from these spots IS harmful to Iowa’s
streams, rivers, and lakes.
Fiction
Finally, I have seen the claim that “urban
landowners use 10 times the fertilizer per acre
as farmers.” But I’ve never seen any evidence
to prove these claims. Lawns need less fertilizer than corn. The annual average fertilizer
needs of lawn grass are between 1 and 2
pounds per thousand square feet. That is
equal to 40 to 80 pounds per acre. And that is
less than the 120 to 160 pounds per acre used
by Iowa farmers for field corn production.
In 2002, professional Turfgrass managers in
Iowa of their own accord adopted a policy
limiting their own use of phosphorus in
fertilizers that they apply to a customer’s lawn.
You can view the details at:
Stabilization on
slopes achieved
with turfgrass
http://www.iowaturfgrass.org/iplca/iaecpressrelease.htm
By
Jeff Wendel
Executive Director
CHECK LIST FOR
MAINTAINING A
HEALTHY LAWN
Mow at the proper height
2.5 to 3 inches; never
remove more than 1/3 of
the leaf tissue when mowing
Keep your mower blade sharp
Use a mulching mower to
return clippings to the lawn
Sweep fertilizer from sidewalks, driveways, and the
street and apply to the lawn
Seed bare areas and control
erosion
Iowa Turfgrass Institute, 515-232-8222,
800-605-0420, jeff@iowaturfgrass.org
The Iowa Horticulturist
WINTER
07
15
Rex
By
Alma Tallman
502 E. 5th St, Atlantic, IA 50022-1343
“King” of the Begonias
hen this extraordinary plant winks, you must have a
start right now! That’s how the begonia came into my
life several years ago. It was in the east window of the
room I was occupying at my friend’s home. The first morning
when I awoke all the leaves were aglow in the sunlight like dark
eyelashes that captivate your imagination. “Please may I have a
piece?” “Of course!” And the start of the plant came home with me.
It was a rex begonia. It grows rapidly and there is usually enough
to share. Like other events in our life, the more you share, the more
beautiful your life and the plant become. My elderly neighbor,
Bob, needed to open his east shades. The plant I shared needed
the light, so that was a good reason to get those shades open
every morning!
Soon, I had three more plants to share. Last summer my
daughter ‘needed’ to take one back to her home in Alabama. Then
Max was missing his wife so much. I asked what would be different
if she were there. “Plants!” was the first word out of his mouth. So
he took one to his condo along with two other plants. “Just look
at the plant and imagine Marcie is winking at you,” I suggested.
Those plants helped Max through the last few months of his life
here on earth. Merle is in a retirement home and can’t grow plants.
I put one in a small bean pot and it’s still alive! One little plant lets
her know every day that someone loves her.
Now it is spring and I’m again setting most of my plants outside.
The ‘Little Lady’ has experienced her semi-annual haircut. Who
will the Lord ask me to share her with next? I’m anxious to know.
I’m ready and waiting because they are starting to grow!
W
More About Rex Begonias
By Eldon Everhart, Horticulture Specialist, Iowa State University
Rex begonias are not new. They have long been grown as houseplants but they are now being used outdoors in different ways.
This includes using them as annual groundcovers and in planter
boxes and patio containers.
Rex begonias are large-leaved and an extremely colorful group
of plants. Many types are available offering a wide array of color
markings and patterns. Plants grow 12 to 15 inches tall, forming
mounds. These “kings” of the begonia world display wildly varied
leaves streaked, bordered, spotted, and splotched by many colors.
They also flower, but usually the flowers are overshadowed by the
striking foliage.
Rex begonias are derived from the species Begonia rex, whose
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dark leaves are marked with a prominent silvery-gray band. B. rex
was discovered in Assam and introduced into cultivation in the
1850s. Its immediate and widespread use in hybridizing gave rise
to countless cultivars.
Most rex begonias grow from a thickened stem structure called
a rhizome. They are not classed with other rhizomatous begonias,
however, because of their bold leaves and more exacting growing
requirements. Some varieties are upright and branching rather
than creeping.
Some of the oldest rex cultivars, such as ‘Abel Carriere’ (1878)
and ‘Louise Closson’ (1889), are still in cultivation. Other cultivars
include ‘Fireworks’, ‘Helen Lewis’, ‘Lady Frances Jean’, ‘Merry
Christmas’, ‘Purple Petticoats’, and ‘Woodriff ’s Tricolor’. Several
hundred named cultivars are grown today, and many more are
hybridized and sold but never named. Rex begonias hybridize
readily, and, of the several hundred seedlings that may grow from
a single cross, no two will be alike.
Care of Rex Begonias
Rex begonias grow best when planted in the shade in soil that
is uniformly moist. They can be overwintered as a houseplant if
given sufficient light. They require high humidity (more than
50% -- some cultivars need more than others), porous planting
mix, a shallow pot, heavy fertilization during growth, and care to
avoid over watering.
This Begonia
Winks
This special plant winks!
It really is true.
The eyelashes so fine,
Will captivate you.
Your watering technique should permit the soil surface to
become almost dry before you water again. Stick a finger into
the planting mix to check.
In spring, after new growth starts, apply a fertilizer such as
23-19-14 or similar analysis at one-quarter strength every two
weeks. Or a controlled-release fertilizer can be applied every three
months. Taper off in fall and stop fertilizing by mid to late fall.
Provide plenty of light without putting the plants in direct, hot
sun. Morning sun or filtered sunlight is best. If light comes from
one side, give each plant a quarter turn weekly. Rex begonias do
best if temperatures are around 70 degrees Fahrenheit during the
day and 60 degrees at night.
In fall or winter, unless grown under lights, many cultivars stop
growing and might even drop some or all of their leaves. If this
happens, water only sparingly until spring, when new leaves emerge.
Most don’t need pruning unless they are “upright growers” or
the rhizome has grown too long for its container and has unsightly
bare sections. After you cut the rhizome back, it will develop new
leaves and may even branch. You can root the rhizome cutting and
grow another plant. Tip pinching earlier will result in branching.
The primary enemies of rex begonias are mildew and botrytis,
both fungus diseases that are easily identified by the white growth
on the leaves. Pick off any leaves that show symptoms as soon as
symptoms are noticed. Good air circulation will also help prevent
these foliage diseases. The systemic fungicide Benomyl is a good
preventative. Follow the label directions exactly.
Occasionally, the insect known as mealybug may appear as a
small cottony-looking mass tucked in the joint where a leaf joins
the leaf stem or the stem joins the rhizome. To kill mealybugs, just
dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and touch it to each mealybug. A large infestation can be treated with houseplant insecticide.
The best way to prevent insects and diseases is to keep a plant
well groomed, removing dead leaves and any debris on the surface
of the planting mix.
Above:
‘Escargot’ a cultivar
of rex begonia that
gets its name from
the unique way that
the leaf curls in on
itself, creating a spiral
effect that resembles
the shell of a snail.
The deeply spiraled
leaves are marked in
bands of silver and
green.
The first thing in the morning
Or the late afternoon sun.
The light comes through
You will want to have some.
Please may I have a little?
I really need a “start”,
And that is just the way,
It melted my heart.
It is a rex begonia,
With rapid growth.
You can easily share,
There is enough for both.
My older neighbor just had to have,
So I planted it just right.
That was a good reason for him
To open his shades for light.
Soon mine had grown,
My daughter was there
Of course she needed it,
There was plenty to share.
Who will be the next?
I’m anxious to know.
I’m ready and waiting.
Eyelashes are starting to show.
By
Alma Tallman
502 E. 5th St
Atlantic, IA 50022-1343
The Iowa Horticulturist
WINTER
07
17
Here’s a common situation that
you may have encountered.
It’s the day after garbage pickup and you
have found a couple rotten and mushy
apples in the fruit drawer. You don’t
want them in your kitchen garbage
bag or the garbage disposal, nor do
you want to go out in the snow to
your compost pile. What can you
do with these rotten apples?
Well let me introduce you
to my little friends. If you had
some of my red worms, you
could feed the mushy apples
to them. Yes, I said worms.
Not any worms will do. You
need red worms. They are also
known as red wigglers, composting worms, or manure
worms. Their scientific name
is Eisenia fetida.
Worm composting is an easy,
clean, and fun way to compost
your kitchen food waste. Worm
composting is also known as vermicomposting. The prefix “vermi” is from
the Latin word vermis meaning worm.
Red worms not only eat compost but
they also make superb “pets” for children
or adults. You do not have to take them for
walks, bathe them, or take them to the vet.
You do not need to buy them special food
either. Red worms love to eat your leftovers or even the toast you may have
burned at breakfast. Along with their toast,
they love coffee grounds and the coffee filters
too, the non-bleached types. Please, NO
butter! My little friends watch their weight.
It is easy and inexpensive to set up your
own worm-composting bin. Just follow
these steps and you will have your own
fresh compost for your house plants or
outside flowers in no time.
HOME FOR YOUR WORMS
Let’s start with the home you will need
for your new little friends. There are two
bin types you can use, plastic or wood.
Plastic is quick and easy to make, but you
must be careful to keep the bedding from
getting too wet. Also, when using a plastic
bin or container it needs to be dark in color
so no light can penetrate through it.
The best size of bin is 2 by 3 feet and
one foot deep. For a plastic bin you will
18
www.iowahort.org
Worm Composting
(Vermicomposting)
Megan Will
ISU Extension Master Gardener
3238 Virginia Street, Sioux City, IA 51104
greenthumblady_3@hotmail.com
712-490-2899
need
to drill 1/16
inch holes every 3
to 4 inches on the bottom of
the bin for drainage. The holes need to be
small so the worms can not get out. You
will also want to place some type of tray
under the bin to collect any excess moisture.
With plastic bins you have to watch that
the bedding does not get too wet. You
may need to add dry news papers to the
top of the bedding to pull extra moister
out. You also need to drill one-quarter
inch holes around the top for air circulation.
Place the lid over the bin, but do not close
it tight because the worms need air and
air movement within the bin. The lid can
be a piece of cardboard, or you can make a
frame with burlap stapled to the frame to
allow for more air ventilation.
Making a wooden bin is a little more
work, but the worms seem to like wooden
bins better than plastic bins. When making
a wooden bin, the holes in the bottom need
to be about one-half inch across. Cover
the holes with window screen to allow the
moisture
to drain out and
to keep the worms
in. With a wooden bin you
may have to mist the worm bedding
with water occasionally since wood pulls
moisture out. There are many places to buy
pre-made bins or find instructions to make
your own bin from composting websites.
BEDDING FOR YOUR WORMS
Once the bin is ready you can add
bedding for your new little friends. You
can buy pre-mixed bedding from bait shops
or you can make your own from peat moss,
coconut fiber, shredded newspapers, egg
cartons and corrugated cardboard. A
combination of store bought and your
own bedding works the best. This way
the worms have a variety of textures. The
bedding should be 3 to 8 inches deep and
moist like a wrung out sponge. Also, when
you first set up the bedding a small handful
of soil or sand should be added. The worms
have gizzards and need the grit to help
digest their food.
WHAT YOUR WORMS NEED
Once you have the bedding and the bin,
you are ready to introduce new friends to
their new home. But where do you get red
worms? You can buy them at many bait
shops or you can order them by mail or
online. Or you might get them from a
friend who has worms.
The worms like a temperature between
60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The bin should
be placed in a dark cool place with minimal
vibration. They like it quiet while they eat.
As soon as the worms are in their
bedding, they are ready to start eating.
Worms are really not picky eaters. They
like fruit, vegetables, peels, stems, soggy
overcooked pasta and bread crusts. They
also love tea bags, coffee grounds and filters
as long as the filters are not bleached. Worms
do not like meat, dairy, fats, salt, or oils.
Red worms can eat up to half their body
weight every day, although they do not
need to be feed everyday.
When you feed your worms it is important to bury the food. This keeps the food
from smelling and keeps the fruit flies away.
Red worms are capable of reproduction
after they are 90 days old. They will need
calcium for reproduction. This can be
accomplished by giving them finely crushed
boiled eggshells every few weeks. The rate
of reproduction and growth is determined
by the space and food given to them. So
the more food and space they have, the more
compost you will have for your plants and
the more red worms you will have to use
for fishing or give away or sell.
WHEN YOUR COMPOST IS READY
Your compost is ready to harvest when
the texture is light and fluffy and the color
is a rich black. At this time you will want
to add new bedding to the bin. You can do
this by moving the finished compost to
one side of your bin and adding the new
bedding to the other side. Start feeding then
by placing the food in the new compost.
The worms will move over to the new
compost and start the process all over
again. As they move over, you can start
sifting the finished compost through a fine
screen to make sure you do not lose any
worms. You can also move your worms by
placing a light over the compost bin the
worms will move towards the bottom.
Scoop off compost layer by layer then move
the worms directly to the new compost. You
should add a handful of finished compost
to the new bedding. This puts some grit
back into the bedding.
Over several months’ time you will have
a rich compost to add to your houseplants,
outside plants, or as a top dressing to your
garden plants. You will also be able to share
your little friends with others and help them
get a worm bin started for their new friends.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Megan Will is an Iowa State University Extension Master Gardener and an Iowa
Master Conservationist. She has been doing worm composting for four years. Megan
shares her worm composting knowledge and experiences with audiences of all ages.
She will be presenting several worm composting workshops and a session at the
Siouxland Flower, Lawn, and Garden Show in Sergeant Bluff on March 23 and 24, 2007.
The Iowa Horticulturist
WINTER
07
19
2006
Left to Right: Jeff Wendel,
Mike Bevins, Barbara Sylvester
(not pictured, Jerry Miller)
ISHS Award Winners
he Iowa State Horticultural Society (ISHS) Annual
Fall Awards Meeting and Luncheon was held on
November 16, 2006 at the Iowa Arboretum. Gary Twedt,
President of the ISHS, proudly presented awards to the
following individuals for excelling among their peers in
horticulture and gardening endeavors.
T
Barb Osborn
Doug Struyk
PRESIDENTIAL CITATIONS
Mike Bevins
Barbara Sylvester
Mike Bevins is the current Secretary/Treasurer of the Iowa
State Horticultural Society and has been the State Horticulturist
for many years. He has spent countless hours organizing meetings and making sure the All Iowa Store runs smooth each year.
Mike also spends many hours talking to horticulture groups and
promoting ISHS and horticulture in Iowa.
Barbara Sylvester is the immediate past ISHS president. Barbara’s
leadership was greatly needed during the recent transition when
ISHS was re-incorporated as a private organization. Barbara has
also provided and made the table garnishes for the annual meetings
the last few years and funded free parking for volunteers at the
ISHS booth at the Iowa State Fair. She has provided leadership
and labor for many ISHS events. She is currently a District/State
representative for the Federated Garden Clubs of Iowa. Barbara is
a past recipient of the ISHS Merit and Honor Awards.
Jerry Miller
Jerry Miller has been a long time contributor to ISHS and is
currently on the ISHS executive board. Jerry is usually the first
friendly face you see as you walk into the All Iowa Store each year.
Jerry is a “kid pleaser” and has done many things (including
dressing up as a clown) over the years to put smiles on children’s
faces as they enter the Store. He gives the benediction at ISHS
luncheons, has volunteered many years for the state fair booth,
and has been our greatest salesman for many worthy fundraisers.
Jerry is a past Merit and Honor Award recipient and has now
received the Presidential Citation twice.
By
20
Gary Twedt President of the Iowa State Horticultural Society
www.iowahort.org
Jeff Wendel
Jeff Wendel is currently serving on the ISHS executive board
and is the Executive Director of all four turf associations (The Iowa
Turf Institute, Iowa Golf Course Superintendents Association,
Iowa Sports Turf Managers Association, and the Iowa Professional
Lawn Care Association). Jeff helped the ISHS president through
the year on many different tasks. Jeff worked diligently and spent
many hours lining up the meeting areas on the ISU campus and
the coordination of the ISHS anniversary plans.
By
HONOR AWARD
Charlie Caldwell
Black Squirrel Vineyard & Winery,
Barb Osborn
18506 270th. Street,
Barb Osborn’s work with the Iowa State Horticultural Society
(ISHS), Iowa State University (ISU), Iowa community colleges,
and the Iowa horticulture industry is exemplary. She is a member
of the Board of Directors, Scholarship Chairman, and former Vice
President of ISHS. She often helps with the All Iowa Store and
other ISHS functions.
Barb is the ISU Horticulture Club Advisor, was active in the
Junior Horticulture Association, and involved with the Des Moines
Horticulture Club. She currently serves as a Program Coordinator
of the Horticulture Resource and Career Center at ISU.
Barb has received numerous awards including the College of
Agriculture Advisor Award, Dr. Kathleen Advisor Hall of Fame Award,
and the Regents P&S Staff Excellence Award. Barb communicates
well with students and parents and has been instrumental in
encouraging many students to choose ISU. She serves as a member
of the recruitment committee, academic advising committee, and
articulation committee. She was invited to the University of
Arkansas to deliver a seminar on recruitment and retention of
horticulture students. She has helped establish articulation
agreements with several Iowa community college programs.
Council Bluffs, IA 51503,
MERIT AWARD
Doug Struyk, J.D.
Doug Struyk is a member of the Executive Board of the Iowa
State Horticultural Society (ISHS). He served as Secretary-Treasurer
for ISHS and the State Horticulturist for the Iowa Department
of Agriculture.
Doug is a member of the Board of Directors of the Iowa
Professional Lawn Care Association, past president of the Iowa
Turfgrass Institute, and member of the Horticulture Advisory
Committee of Western Iowa Community College. Doug is a
graduate of ISU and Creighton University of Law.
Doug is serving a third term in the Iowa House of Representatives.
He is working to provide equity for the horticulture industry in
line with traditional agriculture property tax values. Doug serves
on several committees including Commerce, Regulation and
Labor, Ways and Means, Agriculture, and Economic Growth,
and Appropriations.
Doug recently persuaded the Polk County Supervisors to allow
the Iowa wine industry to market wine in the All Iowa Store at
the Des Moines Home and Garden Show. ISHS retains a small
percentage of the sales and benefits from the sales. Doug served
on the Council Bluffs Trees Forever Steering Committee and the
ISU Extension Council for West Pottawattamie County. He is
co-owner of Struyk Turf, in Council Bluffs.
712-566-2681,
Caldhome@aol.com
Aronia Berries Are
Versatile
ronia melanocarpa, sometimes called black
chokeberry, is starting to become an alternative
crop for some grape growers and farmers in southwest
Iowa. Aronia is a native shrub that has been used
mainly by landscapers for its ornamental white flowers in spring and flame-colored leaves and dark
berries in the fall. Growing 6 to 8 feet in height, the
plants require a slightly acid soil and average rainfall
during the growing season. The pea-sized berries are
violet-black when harvested in the fall. Berries have a
strong, stable, and natural color with a dry, strong,
and sour flavor.
Aronia is cold-hardy to minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit
and blooms late in the spring. I have noticed that a
late frost seems not to affect the bloom, fruit set, or
pollination. Mature plants have about 40 canes and
will yields up to 37 pounds of fruit with 22 pounds
being the average.
The fun part is harvesting the small berries. If
mechanical harvesting equipment is not available,
then hand pulling the berries or cutting the fruit
clusters is a labor of love. Very purple stained hands
are common.
The market potential is developing in the juice
area either alone or blended with other juices of apple
or grape. Sawmill Hollow Organic Farm, located north
of Missouri Valley in southwest Iowa, is developing
many foods that incorporate the juice or paste of
aronia berries.
I have made aronia wine from the berries and
find it heavy with earthy tones, good tannins, and
deep pigmentation. It is great for adding body, color,
and tannins in a wine that needs improvement.
A
(From the Grape Vine, Vol. 2006, No. 4, p. 5)
The Iowa Horticulturist
WINTER
07
21
Book Reviews
By
Taste of the Midwest
Scats and Tracks of the Midwest
By Dan Kaercher
Photographs by Bob Stefko
By James C. Halfpenny, PhD
Illustrated by Todd Telander
Living in Iowa, we know that our state has personality. As a
native resident of Iowa and Editor-in-Chief of Midwest Living
Magazine, Kaercher captures that personality through his travels,
stories, and recipes from the Midwest. During his road trips he
found foods that flavor each state, “12 states, 101 recipes, 150
meals, 8,207 miles and millions of memories.”
Each chapter features a different state, followed by a complete
chapter of recipes. Kaercher calls Iowa “biologically hyperactive,”
citing our status as leading producers of corn and hogs. Accordingly,
he features food and recipes from the Amana Colonies, Pella
Historical Village, DeVine Wine and Beer Café, Maytag Dairy
Farms, Whitey’s Ice Cream, and the Iowa State Fair, just to name
a few. To top it off, each chapter has a list of featured dining,
stops, lodging, and food events. It includes contact information
for products offered by mail order like pork from the Iowa Pork
Producers Association.
Lively photographs of food and people by Bob Stefko brighten
this book to give you a virtual road trip across the Midwest. The
recipes bring this book to life and, for me, created a glorious trip
down memory lane.
Published in 2006 by Meredith Corporation, this book is
priced at $19.95.
ISBN 0-7627-4072-8
Holy scat! Have you ever seen signs of unknown animals in
your garden? Now you can learn to identify wildlife using this
field guide to scats and tracks.
This book is about 4 by 7 inches and meant to be carried outdoors in your pocket. The book includes an introduction to the
skills used in identification, a glossary of terms, and two pages
dedicated to each animal species you might encounter.
The introduction teaches you what observations to make
when looking at scats and tracks and also how to take photos
and make plaster casts of tracks. Your observations will tell a
story about the animal and answer many questions. How big
is it? What did it eat? Was it running or walking? Were babies
following it?
The book features 70 animals common in the Midwest,
including birds, carnivores, hoofed animals, rodents, amphibians,
and reptiles including snakes. Each description includes drawings
of the animal and its tracks, scat, habitat, range, and other signs.
This book is ideal for naturalists of any age and experience.
This spring, carry it with you in your garden or on walks in a
park or the woods. You might learn what’s been eating your
tomatoes or zinnias!
This Falcon Guide sells for $9.95 and has a 2007 copyright by
Morris Book Publishing, LLC. The book and supplementary
material can be obtained from A Naturalist’s World, P.O. Box 989,
Gardiner, MT 59030, phone 406-848-9458, or on the internet at
www.tracknature.com and www.trackinganimals.net.
ISBN 0-7627-4234-8
Sydney Everhart
everhart@cmsu.edu
319-321-1075
22
www.iowahort.org
HortLine
By
Richard Jauron
Iowa State University Extension
Q. I would like to plant a crabapple between two houses, but
there isn’t much space. Can you recommend some upright
crabapple varieties?
A. The ‘Adirondack’ crabapple cultivar is considered by many
to be one of the best upright crabapples. Its mature height is
approximately 18 feet with a spread of 10 feet. The flower buds
on ‘Adirondack’ are dark red. The open flowers are white with
traces of red. The fruit are 1/2 inch in diameter and orange-red
to red in color. ‘Adirondack’ possesses excellent resistance to
apple scab, cedar-apple rust, and fireblight.
‘Sentinel’ is another crabapple with an upright growth habit.
It grows approximately 20 feet tall and 12 feet wide. ‘Sentinel’
produces rose-colored flower buds which later open to pale pink to
white flowers. Fruit are ? inch in diameter and bright red in color.
Another possibility is ‘Red Jewel.’ ‘Red Jewel’ possesses an
upright, oval growth habit and grows approximately 18 feet tall
and 12 feet wide. It has white flowers and cherry red fruit. ‘Red
Jewel’ is considered one of the best crabapples for fall fruit display.
One drawback to ‘Red Jewel’ is its poor resistance to fireblight.
Other crabapples with upright growth habits include ‘Red
Barron,’ ‘Pink Spires,’ and ‘White Candle.’
Q. Sap has been dripping from a pruning cut on a river birch
for several days. Should I try to seal it?
A. Some tree species, such as birch, maple, and elm, “bleed”
heavily when pruned in late winter or early spring. However, the
loss of sap does not seriously harm the trees. The trees will not
bleed to death. The flow of sap will gradually slow and eventually
stop. No effort should be made to try to seal the wound with a
pruning paint or similar material. The loss of sap from pruning
wounds can be avoided by pruning birch, maple, elm, and other
bleeders in early to mid-summer.
Q. My 5-year-old linden tree has been damaged by deer rubbing
their antlers on the trunk. What can I do to save the tree?
A. Male deer rub their antlers on trees in the fall to remove the
dried velvet from their antlers and to mark their territory. Antler
rubbing usually doesn't harm large trees because they have thick
layers of bark. However, antler rubbing can severely damage or
destroy young trees. Young trees have thin layers of bark. The
deer may actually rub off the bark down to the wood.
Little can be done once the damage has occurred. If the deer
has rubbed off the bark all the way around the trunk, the tree
will most likely eventually die. However, if the bark is still intact
on some of the trunk, then the tree may survive.
To protect young trees from antler rubbing in the future, drive
three wooden stakes or metal fence posts around the tree trunk
about 18 inches apart. Four to five feet of the stake or post must
remain above ground level. This should be done in September.
The posts or stakes can be removed the following spring.
Q. How should I prune my summer-bearing red raspberries in
the spring?
A. The proper pruning procedures are based on the growth and
fruiting characteristics of the raspberry plant. The roots and
crowns of raspberries are perennial, while the stems (canes) are
biennial. The shoots of summer-bearing red raspberries grow
and develop during the first growing season. The following year,
these canes flower, produce fruit, and then die.
In March or early April, remove all weak, diseased, and damaged
canes at ground level for summer-bearing red raspberries. Leave
the most vigorous canes, those that are 1/4 inch in diameter when
measured 30 inches from the ground. The remaining canes should
be spaced about 6 inches apart. Also, prune out the tips of the
canes which have died due to winter injury. Cut the canes back
to live tissue. If the canes have suffered little winter dieback,
remove the top 1/4 of the stems.
Q. I have over-wintered several bare-root geraniums in paper
bags. When should I cut back the plants and pot them up?
A. In mid-March, remove the bare-root geraniums from the paper
bags and prune or cut back each plant. Prune out the shriveled,
brown, dead material. Cut back to solid, green, live stem tissue. After
pruning, pot up each plant and water thoroughly. Place the potted
geraniums in a sunny window or under artificial lighting. The
plants should begin to leaf out in few days. Bare-root geraniums
that are pruned back and potted in mid-March should develop
into green, attractive plants that can be planted outdoors in May.
Hortline is a service of Iowa State University Extension
that assists Iowans with gardening questions. Assistance
is available by email: hortline@iastate.edu or telephone:
1-515-294-3108 from 10 a.m. to noon and 1:00 p.m. to
4:30 p.m., Monday through Friday.
The Iowa Horticulturist
WINTER
07
23
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