20156 version 3
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Demonstrate lead climbing on single-pitch rock climbing routes using
natural and placed protection
Level
4
Credits
5
Purpose
People credited with this unit standard are able to demonstrate the skills
required of a lead climber on trad routes, and demonstrate the skills required of
a seconder.
Subfield
Outdoor Recreation
Domain
Rock Climbing
Status
Registered
Status date
27 October 2006
Date version published
26 January 2007
Planned review date
31 December 2011
Entry information
Prerequisites: Unit 20150, Demonstrate rock climbing
skills on natural rock; and Unit 20151, Demonstrate skills
with ropes, knots, anchors and belays for rock climbing
and abseiling; or demonstrate equivalent knowledge and
skills.
Replacement information
This unit standard replaced unit standard 446.
Accreditation
Evaluation of documentation and visit by NZQA and
industry.
Standard setting body (SSB)
Sport, Fitness and Recreation Industry Training
Organisation – Outdoor Recreation
Accreditation and Moderation Action Plan (AMAP) reference
0102
This AMAP can be accessed at http://www.nzqa.govt.nz/framework/search/index.do.
Special notes
1
Definitions
Seconder is the person responsible for the safe belay of the lead climber and for
cleaning the route;
Trad is the use of placed and natural protection.
 New Zealand Qualifications Authority 2016
20156 version 3
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All activities must comply with relevant environmental, legislative, and/or regulatory
requirements set out in the New Zealand Environmental Care Code, Health and Safety
in Employment Act 1992, Injury Prevention, Rehabilitation, and Compensation Act
2001, and their subsequent amendments. The New Zealand Environmental Care Code
is available from the Department of Conservation, Head Office, PO Box 10420,
Wellington, http://www.doc.govt.nz/.
3
There are minimum assessor requirements for assessment against this unit standard.
The details of these requirements are available on the Sfrito website
http://www.sfrito.org.nz.
Elements and performance criteria
Element 1
Demonstrate the skills required of a lead climber on trad routes.
Performance criteria
1.1
Suitable protection is racked for the chosen climb and is accessible during the
climb.
1.2
Natural and placed protection is used to minimise injury.
1.3
Placements are chosen with respect to the climbing situation and after
considering the seconder’s ability and safety.
1.4
A rope system is used which maximises climber safety.
Range
single rope, double rope.
1.5
Suitable techniques to prevent displacement of placed protection are identified
and demonstrated.
1.6
Protection is placed in a manner that considers the direction of forces during a
fall.
1.7
Fall factors are explained.
Range
factors must include but are not limited to – calculation of fall
factor, procedures to reduce, consequences.
1.8
In the event of a fall, correct technique is demonstrated to minimise injury.
1.9
At the top of the pitch, solid and secure anchors are selected and used.
1.10
Belay system at the top of the pitch maximises belayer and seconder safety at
all times.
Range
safety includes – tied in, position, calls, rope management,
receiving seconder.
 New Zealand Qualifications Authority 2016
20156 version 3
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1.11
Skills for retreating off a climb are demonstrated.
Element 2
Demonstrate the skills required of a seconder.
Performance criteria
2.1
The belaying system used maximises lead climber and belayer safety at all
times.
Range
single rope, double rope.
2.2
Protection is removed in a manner which minimises damage to the equipment
and the impact on the environment.
2.3
Equipment loss or damage is minimised through the careful placement on the
racking system.
2.4
Personal safety procedures are demonstrated at the top of the climb.
2.5
Exit from the top of the climb is executed in a safe manner.
Range
a minimum of two exits which may include but are not limited to –
abseil, lowered, walk off.
Please note
Providers must be accredited by the Qualifications Authority, or an inter-institutional body
with delegated authority for quality assurance, before they can report credits from
assessment against unit standards or deliver courses of study leading to that assessment.
Industry Training Organisations must be accredited by the Qualifications Authority before
they can register credits from assessment against unit standards.
Accredited providers and Industry Training Organisations assessing against unit standards
must engage with the moderation system that applies to those standards.
Accreditation requirements and an outline of the moderation system that applies to this
standard are outlined in the Accreditation and Moderation Action Plan (AMAP). The
AMAP also includes useful information about special requirements for organisations
wishing to develop education and training programmes, such as minimum qualifications for
tutors and assessors, and special resource requirements.
Comments on this unit standard
Please contact the Sport, Fitness and Recreation Industry Training Organisation Limited
info@sfrito.org.nz if you wish to suggest changes to the content of this unit standard.
 New Zealand Qualifications Authority 2016