Color Focus Maree Andre' Power of Color Introduction Hair Coloring Program The Principles of Color Theory Instructor Maree Andre' Law of Color Yellow Yellow Green Yellow Yellow Orange Opposites neutralize Green Complimentary Colors Primary Colors Secondary colors Tertiary colors Orange Blue Green Red Orange Blue Red Tone-Level-Saturation Red Violet Blue Violet Violet Light vs Dark Light-brings out Dark-diminishes Blue Eyes Blue/Green Eyes Ash Base Virgin Hair Brown/Gold Eyes Red Base Virgin Hair Color Types Classifications of hair color Temporary Semi-permanent color Vegetable Oxidation colors 20/20 H202 0 P Hydrogen Peroxide/H2O2 Facts Peroxide Uses LEVELS OF LIFT & TIMING GUIDE E R 20 40 60 1. Coloring O 2. Lighting X 80 3. Stripping O 100 4. Neutralizing M 5. Porosity E Developer Volume Levels of Lift Timing 6. Mordant T 10 Volume Up to 1 level 30 minutes 7. Lifting 20 Volume Up to 2 levels 35 minutes 8. Depositing E 30 Volume Up to 3 levels 40 minutes 9. Softening 40 Volume Up to 4 levels 45 minutes R pH Scale 14 10,000,000 TIMES MORE ALKALINE 1,000,000 TIMES 13 MORE ALKALINE STRAIGHTENERS 11.5 – 14.0 100,000 TIMES 12 11 10 MORE ALKALINE. 10,000 TIMES MORE ALKALINE 1,000 TIMES MORE ALKALINE 100 TIMES 9 DISTILLED WATER 6 10 TIMES MORE 5 100 TIMES 4 1,000 TIMES ACID THAN 7 MORE ACID MORE ACID 2 0 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 3.5 – 4.0 10,000 TIMES MORE ACID 100,000 TIMES MORE ACID 1,000,000 TIMES 1 OIL BLEACHES 8.0 – 9.5 ALKALINE THAN 7 7 7 3 ALKALINE PERM SOLUTIONS 8.5 – 9.5 MORE ALKALINE 10 TIMES MORE 8 TINTS & TONERS 9.5 – 10.5 FORMULA-A ………………..Bac-Stat 0.75 MORE ACID 10,000,000 TIMES MORE ACID Working on Wet Hair 1. THE HYDROGEN BONDS ARE BROKEN BY WATER 2. THE CORTEX LAYER IS WATER LOVING 3. THE COLOR GOES TO WORK IMMEDIATELY 4. ONE HALF THE AMOUNT OF HAIR COLOR IS NEEDED 5. THE HAIR COLOR GOES ON EVENLY 6. WHY WET THE HAIR WITH COLOR WHEN WE CAN ORIGINALLY WET THE HAIR WITH WATER? REMEMBER THAT ALL HAIR COLORING, FROSTING, BLEACHING, ETC. IS AN ALKALINE MATERIAL & MUST BE COUNTERACTED BY AN ACID Acid PH Chart Alkaline _____________________________________________________________ .5 0 1.5 1 2.5 2 3.5 3 4.5 4 5.5 5 6.5 6 7.5 7 8.5 8 9.5 9 10.5 11.5 12.5 13.5 10 11 12 13 14 Swollen Hair Tint plus developer on hair Tint mixture enters cortex Tint pigments formed Hair is swollen from Alkaline materials CONDITIONER Acid removes swelling DRYING AND CONDITIONING Color Zones WHAT COLOR ARE THE ROOTS? WHAT COLOR LEVEL IS HE/SHE? WHAT COLOR IS MIDDLE OF HAIR SHAFT WHAT COLOR ARE THE ENDS? WHAT ARE THE DESIRED RESULTS? DOES THE HAIR NEED A FILLER? WHAT VOLUME H2O2 DO YOU NEED AT THE ROOTS? WHAT VOLUME H2O2 DO YOU NEED IN THE MIDDLE HAIR SHAFT? WHAT VOLUME H2O2 DO YOU NEED FOR THE ENDS OF THE HAIR? HOW POROUS ARE THE ENDS? 1 Location Zone-1 Zone-2 Zone-3 2 3 Handling Clients Consultation-Direct the conversation Bring the client into conversation Validate what they want to hear Find the need-new look-new product Listen carefully Explain the benefits of your ideas Explain benefits that fill the need Resolve the problems Rebook the client in six weeks Keep good records Create a long term plan for client Referral Programs Be excited-good attitudes Share Success Only promise what you can deliver Reward yourself Chemical Bonded Atoms Twist Together to Form Hair Fibers CUTICLE SCALES PROTOFIBRIL MICROFIBRIL AMINO ACIDS ATOMS HELIX COIL MACROFIBRIL CORTICAL FIBRIL pH Chart Topic Two Explain details Give an example Exercise to re-enforce learning Summary State what has been learned Define ways to apply training Request feedback of training session Where to Get More Information Other training sessions List books, articles, electronic sources Consulting services, other sources