By: Alex Brett, R.T.P.O.(c)
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Cast (with minimum 2” of plaster above trim line)
400ML Silicone Cartridge (durometer of your choice)
400ML Injection Gun
Pelite
Nylon Stockinette
¼” PETG
8-32 Machine Screws and Nuts
½” Pipe Cap and Nipple
Petroleum Jelly
(Misc shop supplies and tools)
As you can see, this procedure does not require any special
equipment or materials.
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We will start by fabricating a pelite pad in the
shape we want our finished piece
This can be as small as the distal end pad
shown, or as big as a full liner
Form Pelite
Trim and smooth to desired
shape
We will then drill two shallow “key” holes on either side of the cast.
These will give our injection mold something to lock into.
Pull two nylon stockinette over the mold and
set up in your forming station
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Cut two pieces of PETG approximately 6-8” longer and
6-8” wider than the cast (based on side profile).
Trim the parting film back 1.5” around the perimeter of
the plastic. This will provide a good vacuum seal
during molding, yet allow the two halves of the mold
come apart once trimmed.
Parting film is what makes this technique possible.
It doesn’t matter if the film is clear or blue, but your prepared sheets
should have a border of film removed and look something like this:
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We will be fabricating a clam shell type mold
This is the only step that will require the
assistance of a helper.
Heat both sheets of PETG in the oven at the
same time. Assure that the parting film with
trimmed edge is facing up.
Carefully sandwich the mold with the PETG.
Assure that the cast is centered well before applying vacuum.
This step can be a little bit tricky so pay close attention when lining everything up.
Support plastic until it has cooled, then it should look like this:
Drill 3/16” holes, approximately 2” apart around the perimeter of the cast
Once the holes are drilled around the perimeter, trim the PETG
approximately 1” away from the holes
The halves will now separate and the pelite dummy can be popped out
easily thanks to the parting film.
With a ½” bit, drill a hole at the lowest point of the mold to inject the
silicone.
A short ½” pipe nipple will thread into the PETG by hand.
No tap is required.
When using ¼” PETG, the pipe nipple will stay recessed. If for some reason it
protrudes you may need to bond the nipple to the PETG with some epoxy
(this is rarely required).
Apply a thin layer of Petroleum Jelly to the cast and PETG. This will
provide an easy release as well as seal the mold from potential leaks
Bolt the clamshell mold together around the cast using 8-32 machine screws
and wing nuts.
Using a vertical fabrication jig (or another creative method):
Position the cast vertically.
First step is to fill the cap with silicone.
Slowly start injecting silicone into the pipe nipple
Once the void is filled, continue injecting until you see a small amount of
silicone squishing up between the cast and PETG.
With the injection nozzle still in the pipe nipple, grab the pipe cap.
Quickly cap the nipple and allow ample cure time.
This picture shows how far I will usually allow the silicone to squeeze past
the finished edge when injecting.
Once the silicone has cured, the PETG mold can be easily removed.
Here you have a freshly de-molded distal end pad.
To trim the excess silicone, I like to use a pair of small cuticle scissors.
After trimming, give the silicone a good wash with soap and water to remove
the Petroleum Jelly residue.
A light powdering with talcum powder will eliminate any surface tackiness.
An exact duplication of your pelite dummy
With proper care and storage, your mold can be saved and re used
indefinitely!
If you have any questions regarding this technique
or the materials used: feel free to contact me
Alex Brett, R.T.P.O.(c)
Myrdal Orthopedic Technologies
1-877-395-0081
alex@myrdalorthopedics.com