Fashion orientation, credit card use, and compulsive buying Hye-Jung Park Korea Polytechnic University, Kyonggi-Do, South Korea, and Leslie Davis Burns Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon, USA Abstract Purpose – As an effort to identify the underlying determinants of compulsive buying, this study seeks to examine fashion orientation, a fashion-related variable, as a direct antecedent of compulsive buying and as an indirect antecedent of compulsive buying through credit card use. Design/methodology/approach – Using a convenient sampling method, women aged over 20 years living in the Seoul metropolitan area were selected as the sample. Out of 380 distributed, 267 useful questionnaires were returned. Confirmatory factor analysis and path analysis were conducted using structural equation modeling. Findings – The results of this study showed that fashion interest significantly influenced compulsive buying directly and also indirectly by influencing credit card use. Originality/value – This study has significance in terms of being the first one to explore the relationship between fashion orientation variables and compulsive buying, offering a new perspective on compulsive buying. Keywords Fashion, Credit cards, Buying behaviour, South Korea Paper type Research paper variables adopted by most research on compulsive buying (d’Atous et al., 1990; DeSarbo and Edwards, 1996; Kwak et al., 2002; Mowen and Spears, 1999; Rindfleisch et al., 1997; Roberts, 1998; Valence et al., 1988) tend to be restricted to marketing variables related to mass media (advertising contents, TV viewing), socio-environmental variables related to family and peer influences, and personal characteristics variables related to personal traits and demographics. This leaves much room for considering more diverse variables like fashion-related variables to better understand the underlying determinants of compulsive buying. Searching for the determinants for Korean TV home shoppers’ compulsive buying, Park (2003) found credit card usage to be the most influential factor followed by expenditure on fashion goods. Park also found that TV home shoppers who purchased fashion goods showed a higher degree of compulsive buying than those who purchased nonfashion goods. Based on these findings, Park raised the need for further research encompassing various fashion-related variables to better understand compulsive buying and to clarify those variables’ relationships with credit card use. The purpose of this study was to identify the direct impact of fashion-related factors on compulsive buying and the indirect impact of fashion-related factors on compulsive buying through credit card use. This study proposed a model to better understand compulsive buying. Based on the study of Krugger (1998) that compulsive buyers are likely to be very conscious of how they look and appear to others and to be engaged in an unceasing pursuit of things, especially clothing, this study examined the variable, fashion orientation, which relates to an individual’s concern about the perception of other people toward his or her clothing. The causal path of the model is that fashion orientation may influence compulsive buying both directly and indirectly. Introduction The Korean consumer market has been changing rapidly as its doors open to the global economy. Seeing profit opportunities, more transnational companies are entering the Korean market implementing their global marketing strategies resulting in globalization of consumption in Korea. As Solomon (2004) pointed out that transnational companies create a consumption ethic that encourages people of the world to embrace western-style material lifestyles, these global marketers have been successful in convincing an increasing number of Korean consumers that consumption is economically desirable. This is contrary to the traditional Korean perspective discouraging consumption. The diffusion of this new consumption ethic has significantly affected buying behaviors of many Koreans, some of whom are even displaying an extreme buying behavior called compulsive buying. Considered as a side effect of materialism and the dark side of consumer behavior, compulsive buying has been under scrutiny by numerous consumer researchers as well as marketers because of its serious impact on the individual and the public. Though elaborate efforts have been made on identifying determinants of compulsive buying, the variables used in preceding research have been selectively limited. The The Emerald Research Register for this journal is available at www.emeraldinsight.com/researchregister The current issue and full text archive of this journal is available at www.emeraldinsight.com/0736-3761.htm Journal of Consumer Marketing 22/3 (2005) 135– 141 q Emerald Group Publishing Limited [ISSN 0736-3761] [DOI 10.1108/07363760510595959] 135 Fashion orientation, credit card use, and compulsive buying Journal of Consumer Marketing Hye-Jung Park and Leslie Davis Burns Volume 22 · Number 3 · 2005 · 135 –141 Understanding compulsive buying with consideration on fashion orientation provides marketers and government policy makers with insights about predicting and preventing consumers’ extreme buying behaviors. impulsively driven to consume (Faber et al., 1987). The other forms of compulsive consumption are addictive gambling, drug addiction, alcoholism, and overeating (Shiffman and Kanuk, 2000). Like the aforementioned behaviors, compulsive buying deteriorates not only the well-being of individuals themselves but also that of their families, and even that of the society they belong to because of the severe financial, emotional and interpersonal consequences it arouses. As more attention was paid to compulsive buying, research has been conducted to measure and identify compulsive buying. Faber and O’Guinn (1992) and Valence et al. (1988) developed scales to measure compulsive buying. Cole and Sherrell (1995) found that the Faber and O’Guinn scale identifies more extreme compulsive buyers, whereas the Valence et al. scale measures a group of respondents’ compulsive buying tendencies. Rindfleisch et al. (1997) identified the influence of family structure and materialism on adolescents’ compulsive buying. d’Atous et al. (1990) also found that teenagers’ compulsive buying tendencies are influenced by environmental factors such as peers, family’s communication, and parents’ compulsiveness. Employing a phenomenological approach using both quantitative and qualitative data, O’Guinn and Faber (1989) found that compulsive buyers are likely to demonstrate compulsivity as a personality trait and have lower self-esteem and fantasies and consequences of compulsive buying were extreme levels of debt, anxiety and frustration, subjective sense of loss of control, and domestic dissension. Theoretical background Fashion orientation In identifying clothing-fashion life style segment, Gutman and Mills (1982) developed fashion orientation factor composed of four dimensions: (1) Fashion leadership. (2) Fashion interest. (3) Importance of being well dressed. (4) Anti-fashion attitude. Using Korean subjects, Chung (1996) and Lee et al. (2004) identified the same four dimensions of fashion orientation. Sharing the common ground with Gutman and Mills (1982), Huddleston et al. (1993) used fashion orientation to identify lifestyle characteristics that are directly related to shopping behavior and Lumpkin (1985) included it as a variable in identifying shopping orientation segment. In addition, Darley and Johnson (1993) found that American female adolescents’ shopping behaviors were influenced by fashion orientation. Following the aforementioned preceding studies, this study examined fashion orientation in relationship to compulsive buying. Credit card use The dramatic increase of credit card use in recent years by Korean consumers has accelerated transforming Korea into a mass consumption society. Due to Korean credit card companies’ aggressive market expansion and promotion strategies together with the convenience of using credit card, increasing number of consumers tend to use credit card beyond their paying ability. With over 100 million credit cards issued to the public around the end of 2002 (Kim, 2002), consumer bankruptcies have erupted in recent years and there are grave concerns that the number will significantly increase as credit card debts mount up and distress more consumers financially. However, despite the tremendous impact of credit card use on individual consumers, businesses and the society, little research has been done on it to date. Feinberg (1986), Pinto and Parente (2000), and Till and Hand (2003) are some of the many researches in the western society who have identified the determinants of consumers’ credit card usage. Hypothesis development Several studies (d’Atous, 1990; Feinberg, 1986; Magee, 1994; O’Guinn and Faber, 1989; Roberts, 1998; Roberts and Jones, 2001) identified a significant relationship between credit card use and compulsive buying. Using Korean subjects, Park (2003) found that credit card use was the most influential factor followed by expenditure on fashion goods to TV home shopper’s compulsive buying. Based on the finding, Park suggested that fashion-related variables other than expenditure on fashion goods should be considered to have a better understanding of compulsive buying. Accordingly, this study adopted fashion orientation, a fashion-related variable, as a direct antecedent of compulsive buying and as an indirect antecedent of compulsive buying through credit card use. Figure 1 shows the path model based on the hypothesized relationships among these variables in this study. Compulsive buyers can temporarily escape negative feelings through fantasizing about personal success and social acceptance while engaging in the particular behavior (Jacobs, 1986). Elliot (1994) found that one of the primary functions of compulsive buying is to increase the compulsive buyer’s ability to match his or her subjective perceptions of socially desirable or required appearance. Roberts and Martinez (1997) also found compulsive buying to be positively related to buying goods showing social status both in the US and Mexico. Since clothing is regarded as one of the manifest examples of status consumption, it may be reasonable to assume that highly fashion oriented consumers are likely to do compulsive buying. Studies by Krugger (1998) and Schlosser et al. (1994) support this assumption. Krueger found that compulsive buyers are likely to be very conscious of how they look and appear to others Compulsive buying According to O’Guinn and Faber (1989), compulsive buying is chronic, repetitive purchasing that becomes a primary response to negative events or feelings. Compulsive buyers tend to buy excessive number of objects they do not need and they sometimes cannot afford (Hoyer and MacInnis, 2001). Compulsive buying is different from impulse buying: impulse buying centers on a specific product at a particular moment and it is temporary, while compulsive buying is an enduring behavior that centers on the process of buying, not the purchases themselves (Solomon, 2004). Compulsive buying is one form of compulsive consumption that is in the realm of abnormal consumer behavior regarded as the dark side of consumption (Shiffman and Kanuk, 2000). Compulsive consumption is inappropriate, typically excessive, and clearly destructive to the lives of individuals who appear 136 Fashion orientation, credit card use, and compulsive buying Journal of Consumer Marketing Hye-Jung Park and Leslie Davis Burns Volume 22 · Number 3 · 2005 · 135 –141 Figure 1 Model of hypothesized relationship among fashion orientation, credit card use, and compulsive buying cards than non-compulsive buyers. Applying these findings to Korean consumers, this study hypothesized the positive relationship between credit card use and compulsive buying as follows: H3. Credit card use promotes compulsive buying. and to be engaged in an unceasing pursuit of things, especially clothing, to fill internal emptiness and to make themselves feel complete. After interviewing 46 compulsive buyers, Schlosser et al. found that subjects spent their money on clothing, shoes, and records/compact discs. As consumers who have fashion leadership and interest and know the importance of being well dressed are more likely to be compulsive buyers, whereas those who have anti-fashion attitude are least likely to be compulsive buyers, this study establishes the following hypothesis. H1. Among the factors of fashion orientation, three factors – fashion leadership, fashion interest, and importance of being well dressed – spur compulsive buying, while anti-fashion attitude does not encourage compulsive buying. Method Measurement The questionnaire for this study contained multi-item measures of fashion orientation, credit card use, and compulsive buying. Fashion orientation was measured using Gutman and Mills (1982) fashion orientation scale, with its four factors of fashion leadership, fashion interest, importance of being well-dressed, and anti-fashion attitude. The measurement of fashion leadership was composed of five items such as “it is important for me to be a fashion leader”. The measurement of fashion interest was composed of five items such as “I spend a lot of time on fashion-related activities”. The measurement of importance of being well dressed was composed of four items such as “it is important to be well-dressed”. The measurement of anti-fashion attitude was composed of three items such as “fashion in clothing is just a way to get more money from the consumer”. For the anti-fashion factor, two additional items, “I only buy the clothing I really need” and “when buying clothing, I seriously consider its utility value compared to its price”, were included modifying what were used in the previous studies (Chung, 1996; Park, 2003) using Korean subjects. Credit card use was measured using the scale developed by Roberts and Jones (2001), which was composed of 12 items such as “my credit cards are usually at their maximum credit limit”. The scale was used in a Korean marketing literature (Park, 2003) and proved its reliability. The compulsive buying scale developed by Faber and O’Guinn (1992) was used to measure compulsive buying and was composed of seven items such as “I have bought things though I couldn’t afford them”. The scale was applied to Korean subjects by Lyi et al. (1997) and Kwak et al. (2002) and showed its reliability. All measures used five-point Likert-type scales, which ranged from strongly disagree (þ 1) to strongly agree (þ5). According to Richins (1994), materialists are more likely to value possessions for their status and appearance. As pursuing fashion is important to people living materialistic lifestyles, fashion orientation itself maybe considered as materialistic. Considering that clothing is one of the best means to show off status and appearance as noted in the first hypothesis, it may be reasonable to assume there is a strong relationship between fashion orientation and materialism. This assumption together with the finding that there is a strong relationship between materialism and credit card use by Rindfleisch et al. (1997), it is hypothesized that fashion orientated consumers to be heavy credit card users. Consumers who tend to have fashion leadership and interests and know the importance of being well dressed might use their credit cards more often to “buy now and pay later” for clothing they might not be able to afford to buy without credit cards, while those who have antifashion attitude are least likely to use their credit cards to buy clothing they can not afford. The second hypothesis is as follows. H2. Among the factors of fashion orientation, three factors – fashion leadership, fashion interest, and importance of being well dressed – spur credit card use, while antifashion attitude does not promote credit card use. The relationship between credit card use and compulsive buying seems to be clear considering the rapid increase of both credit card use and compulsive buying in recent years. Most researches show that credit card use is a critical factor to compulsive buying. Feinberg (1986) found credit cards as spending-facilitating stimuli. Roberts (1998) and Roberts and Jones (2001) found a strong relationship between credit card use and compulsive buying among American college students. D’Atous (1990) and Magee (1994) also found that compulsive buyers to be more likely to use credit cards more. Consistent with these researches, O’Guinn and Faber (1989) identified that compulsive buyers had more credit Data collection and analysis The data of this study was collected through surveying women only because Faber et al. (1987) and O’Guinn and Faber (1989) found women to be more compulsive than male and they tended to spend more on clothing. Using convenient sampling method, women over 20 years of age living in the Seoul metropolitan area were selected as sample. Out of 380 distributed, 267 useful questionnaires 137 Fashion orientation, credit card use, and compulsive buying Journal of Consumer Marketing Hye-Jung Park and Leslie Davis Burns Volume 22 · Number 3 · 2005 · 135 –141 were returned. Descriptive statistics for demographic characteristics of the respondents are shown in Table I. The mean scores of credit card use and compulsive buying are 17.45 (SD ¼ 5.39) and 14.97 (SD ¼ 5.68), respectively. Amos 4.0 program was used for all structural modeling analysis using maximum likelihood estimation. The fit of the structural model was evaluated by examining Chi-square statistics, goodness-of fit index (GFI), adjusted goodness-offit index (AGFI), normed fit index (NFI), and Tucker-Lewis index (TLI). This study also examined comparative fit index (CFI) because CFI is robust to sample size while other indexes are not (Bentler, 1990). This study used an alpha level of 0.001 for all statistical tests. buying, all fit measures except chi-square (x2) statistics were also quite acceptable. Though it was at minimal level, fit measures for the credit card use scale were also acceptable. Therefore, it was concluded that all the scale fit measures were acceptable for testing the model fit. In addition, Cronbach’s alphas for scales in the model ranged from 0.8033 to 0.8963, which suggests that the measures for the scales were reliable. Test of model Table III shows the results of model fit. GFI, AGFI, and NFI values were 0.864, 0.835, and 0.863, respectively, which indicate a minimally acceptable fit. TLI and CFI in this model are 0.937 and 0.945, respectively. Thus, it can be concluded that the model fit is acceptable for testing the hypothesized relationship. Results Scale assessment Three scales were assessed their measurement properties using confirmatory factor analysis (CFA). For the fashion orientation scale, after CFA had been conducted to each of the four factors – fashion leadership, fashion interest, importance of being well dressed, and anti-fashion attitude – one of the anti-fashion attitude items was deleted because of no significance of its factor loading. For credit card use scale, six items were also deleted. Table II shows fit measures for the scales. All the fit statistics for two scales, importance of being well-dressed and anti-fashion attitude, were quite acceptable. Regarding the scales of fashion leadership, fashion interest, and compulsive Hypothesis test The hypothesized relationship was tested by path analysis using structural modeling. Standardized path estimates are shown in Figure 2. Though fashion orientation factors were mostly correlated to each other, only the fashion interest factor spurred compulsive buying (path coefficient¼0.31), indicating that H1 is partially accepted. Similarly, only the fashion interest factor raised credit card use (path coefficient ¼ 0.43), indicating H2 is partially accepted. H3 is also accepted as credit card use raises compulsive buying (path coefficient ¼ 0.46). Consequently, the results of this study showed that fashion interest not only significantly influenced compulsive buying directly but also indirectly by influencing credit card use. Table I Demographic characteristics of the respondents Characteristic Age Marital status Education Occupation Family income Number Percent 20-29 30-39 40-49 50-59 60 or above Never married Married Others (divorced, widowed) College degree and graduate student High school diploma and college student Graduate degree Not a high school graduate Housewife Student Professional Wage worker Self-employed Stay-at-home Others Under US$2,000 2,000-2,999 3,000-3,999 4,000-4,999 5,000-5,999 5,000-6,999 US$7,000 or above 112 67 60 26 4 156 109 4 136 41.6 24.9 22.3 9.7 1.5 57.8 40.4 1.9 50.6 94 28 11 79 68 50 23 19 11 19 40 58 74 27 30 12 23 34.9 10.4 4.1 29.4 25.3 18.6 8.6 7.1 4.1 7.0 15.2 22.0 28.0 10.2 11.4 4.5 8.7 Implications and future studies As compulsive buying has gained increasing attention from marketers and researchers all over the world, efforts have been made to identify the underlying determinants of the behavior from diverse perspectives. However, no research has been made to examine whether fashion-specific variables affect compulsive buying. Consequently, this study has significance in terms of being the first one to explore the relationship between fashion orientation variables and compulsive buying offering new perspective on this extreme buying behavior. The findings of this study provide a few implications for researchers, marketers and government policy makers. First, consumers have easy access to too much credit. As Schor (1998) pointed out that access to easy credit is one of the causes of overspending, increasing number of consumers are suffering from mounting credit card debts resulting from abusing the credit that came easy. Once realizing that credit card use is a more or less controllable variable while fashion interest variable and other variables triggering compulsive buying are not, the choice is clear for policy makers and marketers, especially fashion retailers issuing in-store credit cards. Credit card issuers’ operations should be more tightly and meticulously regulated by authorities and each issuer’s internal governance system in terms of new credit issuance, especially to new and young users, credit monitoring and management, and promotional activities. Second, the finding made through this study’s causal modeling that fashion interest not only directly influenced compulsive buying but also indirectly by spurring credit card spending suggests that 138 Fashion orientation, credit card use, and compulsive buying Journal of Consumer Marketing Hye-Jung Park and Leslie Davis Burns Volume 22 · Number 3 · 2005 · 135 –141 Table II Fit of the scales Scale Fashion orientation Fashion leadership Fashion interest Importance of being well dressed Anti-fashion attitude Credit card use Compulsive buying x2 p GFI AGFI NFI TLI CFI 16.519 27.762 3.809 2.112 105.061 33.914 0.006 0.000 0.149 0.348 0.000 0.002 0.978 0.959 0.993 0.996 0.880 0.963 0.934 0.876 0.965 0.980 0.719 0.925 0.972 0.925 0.989 0.972 0.843 0.970 0.960 0.920 0.983 0.995 0.756 0.973 0.980 0.960 0.994 0.998 0.853 0.982 Figure 2 Path coefficients in hypothesized relationship Chung, H. (1996), “College women’s clothing shopping orientation and market behavior”, Journal of Costume Culture, Vol. 4 No. 2, pp. 111-29. Cole, L. and Sherrell, D. (1995), “Comparing scales to measure compulsive buying: an exploration of their dimensionality”, Advances in Consumer Research, Vol. 22 No. 1, pp. 419-27. Darley, W. and Johnson, D. (1993), “Effects of female adolescent locus of control on shopping behavior, fashion orientation and information search”, International Review of Retail, Distribution & Consumer Research, Vol. 3 No. 2, pp. 149-65. d’Atous, A. (1990), “An inquiry into the compulsive side of normal consumers”, Journal of Consumer Policy, Vol. 13, pp. 15-32. d’Atous, A., Maltais, J. and Roberge, C. (1990), “Compulsive buying tendencies of adolescent consumers”, Advances in Consumer Research, Vol. 17 No. 1, pp. 306-12. DeSarbo, W. and Edwards, E. (1996), “Typologies of compulsive buying behavior: a constrained cluster-wise regression approach”, Journal of Consumer Psychology, Vol. 5 No. 3, pp. 231-61. Elliot, R. (1994), “Addictive consumption: function and fragmentation in postmodernity”, Journal of Consumer Policy, Vol. 17 No. 2, pp. 159-80. Faber, R. and O’Guinn, T. (1992), “A clinical screener for compulsive buying”, Journal of Consumer Research, Vol. 19, December, pp. 459-69. Table III Fit of the model x Model fit 2 638.948 p GFI AGFI NFI TLI CFI 0.000 0.864 0.835 0.863 0.937 0.945 researchers should be aware different mixes of variables result in different degree of correlation. The following are some suggestions for future studies. First, as the scope of this study was limited to women in the Seoul metropolitan area, future researches conducted with more representative pools reflecting broader demographical characteristics would add additional credibility to the findings. In addition, one might like to isolate a demographic group, such as women in their 20s, and compare them to a mainstream population. Second, as it was beyond the scope of this study, it would be interesting to expand this study cross culturally and compare cultures with different degrees of economic development. Third, future researches should also consider other fashion-related variables and compare the results with those of non-fashion-related variable to determine if fashion-related variables as a whole can be considered a major determinant of compulsive buying. References Bentler, P.M. (1990), “Comparative fit indices in structural models”, Psychological Bulletin, Vol. 107 No. 2, pp. 238-46. 139 Fashion orientation, credit card use, and compulsive buying Journal of Consumer Marketing Hye-Jung Park and Leslie Davis Burns Volume 22 · Number 3 · 2005 · 135 –141 Faber, R., O’Guinn, T. and Reymond, S. 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(1994), “Compulsive buying tendency as a predictor of attitudes and perceptions”, Advances in Consumer Research, Vol. 21 No. 1, pp. 590-4. Mowen, J. and Spears, N. (1999), “Understanding compulsive buying among college students: a hierarchical approach”, Journal of Consumer Psychology, Vol. 8 No. 4, pp. 407-30. O’Guinn, T. and Faber, R. (1989), “Compulsive buying: a phenomenological exploration”, Journal of Consumer Research, Vol. 16, September, pp. 147-57. Park, H. (2003), “Compulsive buying of fashion goods purchasers on TV home shopping shows”, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Vol. 27 No. 5, pp. 588-99. Pinto, M. and Parente, D. (2000), “Materialism and credit card use by college student”, Psychological Reports, Vol. 86 No. 2, pp. 643-53. Richins, M. (1994), “Special possessions and the expression of material value”, Journal of Consumer Research, Vol. 21 No. 3, pp. 522-33. Rindfleisch, A., Burroughs, J. and Denton, F. (1997), “Family structure, materialism, and compulsive consumption”, Journal of Consumer Research, Vol. 23, March, pp. 312-25. Roberts, J. (1998), “Compulsive buying among college students: an investigation of its antecedents, consequences, and implications for public policy”, The Journal of Consumer Affairs, Vol. 32 No. 2, pp. 295-319. Roberts, J. and Jones, E. (2001), “Money attitudes, credit card use, and compulsive buying among American college students”, Journal of Consumer Affairs, Vol. 35 No. 21, pp. 213-40. Roberts, J. and Martinez, C. (1997), “The emerging consumer culture in Mexico: an exploratory investigation of compulsive buying in Mexican young adults”, Journal of International Consumer Marketing, Vol. 10 Nos 1/2, pp. 7-31. Schlosser, S., Black, D., Repertinger, S. and Freet, D. (1994), “Compulsive buying: demography, phenomenology, and comorbidity in 46 subjects”, General Hospital Psychiatry, Vol. 16 No. 3, pp. 205-12. Schor, J. (1998), The Overspent American: Upscaling, Downshifting and the New Consumer, Basic Books, New York, NY. Shiffman, L. and Kanuk, L. (2000), Consumer Behavior, 7th ed., Prentice-Hall, Upper Saddle River, NJ. Solomon, M. (2004), Consumer Behavior, 6th ed., PrenticeHall, Upper Saddle River, NJ. Till, R. and Hand, D. (2003), “Behavioral models of credit card usage”, Journal of Applied Statistics, Vol. 30 No. 10, pp. 1201-20. Valence, G., d’Astous, A. and Fortier, L. (1988), “Compulsive buying: concept and measurement”, Journal of Consumer Policy, Vol. 11 No. 4, pp. 419-33. Executive summary and implications for managers and executives This summary has been provided to allow managers and executives a rapid appreciation of the content of this article. Those with a particular interest in the topic covered may then read the article in toto to take advantage of the more comprehensive description of the research undertaken and its results to get the full benefits of the material present. Responsible lending is up to the lender not the regulator Compulsive buying has become more common in recent times leading to criticism of our materialistic ways and especially the activities of marketers as cheerleaders for the hedonistic, consumer society. Just as we need to understand other compulsive behavior (gambling, overeating, alcohol and drug abuse), compulsive buying must be recognized and appreciated. However, dealing with compulsive behavior is not a primary concern for marketers but for clinicians in psychology and psychiatry. Park and Burns examine the factors that are associated with compulsive buying and especially fashion-orientation and credit card usage. As marketers we can appreciate that an ethical responsibility exists for us to identify compulsive behavior – just as it is wrong for a barman to continue serving a drunk, we should avoid indulging the compulsive buyer. 140 Fashion orientation, credit card use, and compulsive buying Journal of Consumer Marketing Hye-Jung Park and Leslie Davis Burns Volume 22 · Number 3 · 2005 · 135 –141 Compulsive buying just got easier! It is not the case that compulsive buying in a new phenomenon but it is that case that individuals with such a compulsion have it far more easy. The main reason for this is the availability of credit – when the buyer had only the money in her pocket, she could not spend beyond her means so easily as is the case with unsecured credit. Periodically, we hear of terrible cases where individuals have run up huge unsustainable debts – not through misfortune but through the compulsion to go on buying. We are expected to feel sorry for such people in a way that would be less the case had the family’s crisis been precipitated by drugs, gambling or alcohol. And such reports are often associated with the cries of politicians for action against the peddlers of easy credit – the card companies and the retailers. Marketers involved in the promotion of retail credit need to take heed of these cries since they too often translate into a further iteration of sub-optimal regulation that seems not to prevent compulsion but to penalize the responsible user of credit. Our common sense duty is to seek not to issue credit to the compulsive buyer, our problem is how to identify such people. The companies have developed specific products for marketers through using the credit data they hold as methods of targeting (usually combined with census and address data). These geodemographic systems have very wide applications but always faced a limitation since only very extreme variations from the norm delivered adequate targeting information – what was missing was lifestyle information. The lifestyle data – information about actual purchases and real consumer behavior – is now readily available in the more sophisticated marketing environments (and where daft government regulation does not prevent such data collection). Using this information alongside traditional credit data may provide a means to identify potential risks from compulsive buyers. Rather than relying on the limited amount of credit information associated with a given individual, we can begin to develop a risk profile based on purchase behavior and the collection of lifestyle data by way of the credit application itself. At the point of application the filter becomes more sophisticated allowing two improvements: the elimination of more credit risks thereby allowing more competitive rates of interest and the identification of more people with compulsion disorders reducing the risk from inappropriate and excessive government interference in the credit industry. Fashion orientation and compulsive buying Park and Burns establish that compulsive buyers are likely to be very fashion oriented in their purchase behavior. Yet, for many retailers fashion conscious and fashion oriented individuals are an important target audience since they lead the trends and are often the best customers. However, it behooves us to act with a degree of caution when giving credit on purchases. Indeed, the ease with which retail credit is issued represents a great difficulty – changes to regulation short of hire purchase controls with do little so long as retailers can issue unsecured credit. Park and Burns identify three central aspects of fashion orientation – fashion leadership, interest in fashion and the importance of being well-dressed. These factors clearly link to compulsive behavior in that those who display such behavior also display these characteristics. However, this does not represent an adequate filter for retailers on its own. At present the issuing of retail credit requires the completion of a simple application form which, in the more sophisticated retail credit markets, is then subject to some form of automated credit check. This credit check is driven by certain key data – address, known credit history and demographics. In general terms marketers do not make use of lifestyle data in determining whether to issue credit. The issuing of credit is also, in part dependent on the accuracy of the data (and, by implication the honesty of the potential customer). The role for public policy and regulation Park and Burns observe that the credit card is the most significant factor in encouraging compulsive buying and suggest that since other antecedents of such behavior are hard to pin down, regulatory action should focus on the control of credit. It is clearly proper for the government to regulate the issuing of credit both for the protection of individuals and for wider economic reasons. But such regulation should be confined to the prevention of excessive rates of interest, ensuring that information given to borrowers is accurate and complete, and in setting rules for the enforcement of debt collection. In the case of compulsive buying, two additional safeguards may assist. Firstly, clinicians working with individuals liable to compulsive behavior should be required to inform credit agencies. And secondly, where credit is refused because of suspected compulsive behavior, the credit referencing agencies should be told. Both of these safeguards would benefit from incorporation in consumer credit regulations. Combined with the use of lifestyle data in determining whether to give credit, the result should be a more effective control than at present. However, we should remember that the behavior of a minority should not result in the loss of freedoms for the majority. Lifestyle data and credit referencing In the UK and the US the credit referencing agencies have evolved from a process operation servicing the consumer finance industry into far more outward looking businesses. (A preĢcis of the article “Fashion orientation, credit card use, and compulsive buying”. Supplied by Marketing Consultants for Emerald.) 141