STUDENTS!
•DO NOT GET YOUR
MACHINES OUT
TODAY 
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Textile Science
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Fabric Weaves
1. Weaving is the process of combining threads
together to form a textile. Woven fabrics are made
by (2) weaving together two sets of yarn that are set
at right angles to each other. Usually occurs on a
loom.
3. Threads that run vertically in fabric are called
the warp yarns.
4. Threads that run through the width of the
fabric horizontally are called the weft or filling
yarns.
5. Label
6. Cloth woven on a loom.
Warp yarns
Weft (filling) yarns
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Traditionally there are 3
different types of weaves
•Plain Weave
•Twill Weave
•Satin Weave
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Plain Weave
What is it?
A plain weave is the simplest and most used weave. A plain weave is
found in a wide range of fabrics. Fabrics with a plain weave are usually
reversible. More fabrics are woven using a plain weave than any other
type of weave.
Types of fabric woven with a plain weave
•Canvas
•Burlap
•Chiffon
How it’s done
Each warp yarn passes alternately over one weft yarn and then
under one weft yarn for the whole length of the fabric. You
alternate starting on the top of the warp yarns to starting on
the bottom of the warp yarn to create the weave.
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Complete the sample
Start on top of warp yarn, and
then on the next line alternate
and start on the bottom of the
warp yarn.
You will be using the longer sample
threads in your bag, there should be ten
of them, five warp and five weft.
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Twill Weave
What is it?
A type of weave that creates a diagonal pattern. Created
by passing the weft threads over one or more warp threads
and then under two of more warp threads. Twill weaves are
stronger than plain weaves because twill weaves have fewer
interlacings, making it more compact, durable, and heavier.
Types of fabric woven with a twill weave
•Denim
•Fashion suiting
•Dress fabrics
Complete only one of the types of
twill weaves shown on your guided
notes, not three as noted.
How it’s done
There are three different types of twill weaves. A
balanced twill, a warp-face twill, and a filling- face twill.
Replicate the picture on the left on the right hand side in
the box
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Satin Weave
In a true satin weave there is only one interlacing for
each warp yarn. No two interlacings ever touch or are
adjacent to each other. Satin weaves produce a very
even surface because of the many warp floats.
Types of fabrics made with a satin
weave
Crepe back satin
Sateen
How its done
Refer to the picture on the right. You
do not have to
Complete a sample for the satin weave.
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Fiber:
The basic beginning structure of a textile.
A fiber is an individual, fine, hair-like structure.
Fibers are usually twisted together to make
yarns, which are then woven to create a textile.
Fiber is classified into two categories
Natural or Synthetic
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Natural Fiber
Natural fibers come from
plants or animals.
•Plant fibers can come from
stems, leaves, or even seeds of
plants.
•Animal fiber is produced from
the fur of animals.
•And even though silk comes
from the cocoon of a silk
worm it is still consdiered an
animal fiber
In this class we will focus on four
natural fibers.
Cotton, Wool, Linen, and Silk
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Cotton
Advantages
•Low cost
•Cool (Absorbs moisture)
•Machine Washable
•Soft
Characteristics
•Made from the cotton plant.
•Least expensive of all natural
fibers.
•Absorbs moisture.
(hydrophilic)
•One of the most popular
natural fibers because of its
comfort level
•Accepts dyes easily
Disadvantages
•Shrinkage
•Little resiliency (ability of
fabric to spring back into
shape
Lots of lint because of short
fibers
When creating clothing cotton is often mixed with
another fiber to create a blend, why would this be?
Proper Care
•Press with Moisture
•Wash on cooler
temperatures to prevent
shrinking
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Cotton Fabrics
•Canvas
•Corduroy
•Denim (Jeans)
•Flannel
•Knits
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Proper Care
•Care varies from washable to dry
clean only
• See the care label for specific
care techniques
Advantages
•Keeps warm because of crimp and
slow absorbing water vapor
•Very high crimp
•Durable
•Repels outside moisture
Keeps shape well
Characteristics
•Comes from animals (sheep, rabbits,
goats)
•Natural fire-retardant characteristics.
•Absorbs moisture (Hydrophilic).
•It is often used for coats, outer clothing,
quality suits, etc.
•Temperature Regulation
Wool
Disadvantages
•Loses strength when wet
•Wash with care
•Expensive (Generally because of a
•limited quantity)
•Shrinks and mats
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.
Linen
Proper Care
• Varies from washable to dry
cleanable only, dependent upon
the quality
• See the care label.
• Press at highest temperatures.
•Hydrophilic
Advantages
•Strong
Looks Expensive
Characteristics
• Made from the flax plant.
• Similar Characteristics of cotton Stronger
than cotton.
• Dyes easily.
• Intricate weaving process
• It is commonly used for spring/summer
wear and fine suits
Disadvantages
•Wrinkles very easily
•Expensive
Sheer
How can we tell that
linen is a natural fiber?
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How is
Silk made?
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Characteristics
• Fiber is made by a silk worm
• Luxury fabric.
•Very hydrophobic
Silk
Proper Care
• Varies from washable to dry cleanable only,
dependent upon the quality.
• See the care label.
• Do not iron using moisture—water spots will not
go away.
Advantages
•Natural luster!
•Thinnest of all natural
fibers
•Dyes well
•Excellent Drape
Disadvantages
•Degrades over time.
•Extreme care in cleaning
Sensitive to sunlight = fiber damage &
Yellowing
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A few questions about
natural fibers!
1. What are two advantages of natural fibers?
They are breathable, they feel good on your skin, they tend
to be of a higher quality, and better for the environment in
production than synthetic fibers.
2. What are the benefits of using blended fibers in fabrics?
It helps provide beneficial qualities where natural fibers may lack them. For
example when we mix cotton with polyester (cotton/poly blend) the garment will
be much less likely to stretch and will have a higher resiliency. Blended fibers are
also a cheaper option because synthetic fibers easier to produce. You will see
mostly blends in clothing at department stores.
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Synthetic Fibers
Synthetic fibers are manufactured through the use of
chemicals. They are Man Made Fibers.
Synthetic fibers are made from
chemical solutions that are forced
through tiny holes, similar to water
passing through a shower head.
The device that allows this process
to happen and allows the chemicals
to become a filament strand is
called a spinerette.
In this class we will learn about 6 of these synthetic
fibers
Nylon
Acetate
Rayon
Acrylic
Polyester
Spandex
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Nylon
Characteristics
•Strongest synthetic fiber
•Very light weight
•Tears easily
•The first chemically man-made fiber, invented
to be used in parachutes during the war.
•After the war it created a nylon craze
Proper Care
Advantages
•When pressing, use very low temperature to
prevent melting
•Need to be kept clean for best performance
•Can be machine washed in warm water
•Tends to attract static, in order to prevent this
add a fabric softener sheet during the drying
cycle
•Excellent strength
•Lightweight
•Excellent abrasion resistance
•Washable
Disadvantages
•Doesn’t absorb moisture (hydro phobic)
•Melts instead of burning
•Static and pilling problems
Poor resistance to prolonged and continuous
sunlight
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How nylon fiber is made:
Nylon is made when molten nylon is forced through very small holes in a device
called a spinneret. The streams of nylon harden once they come in contact with air.
They are then wound onto bobbins, and sewn to create fabric.
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Burn tests on synthetic
fibers
All synthetic fibers because of there chemical make up will melt
when contacted with heat. Most synthetic fibers, especially
polyester will also create a thick black smoke when ignited. When
the fiber is still hot, you will usually be able to pull long plastic
strands (filaments) out of the fabric.
Which type of fabric would you rather be wearing if caught in
a fire? Natural or synthetic?
What will nylon do will it’s exposed to flame? Let’s make a
prediction.
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Acrylic
How acrylic fiber is made:
Acrylic fabric is made of manmade acrylic fibers. Acrylic fibers
are made of synthetic polymers
which essentially are a soft fibrous
plastic. Acrylic fiber was invented
in the 1940’s and is mainly
manufactured in Asia. Acrylic
fabric can be made by wet or dry
spinning methods.
Disadvantages
•Usually dry cleaned
•Never use a hot iron
•Fair strength,
Characteristics
•weak when wet
Created to be similar to wool
•hydrophobic
•Less expensive
Advantages •static and pilling problems
•Washable
•Light weight, but warm
•Washable
Proper Care
•Soft
•Never Iron acrylic fabric
•Machine washable
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Acetate
Advantages
•Looks like silk
•Drapes well
•Inexpensive
•No pilling, little static
•Rarely wrinkles
Disadvantages
•Poor strength
•May fade
•May wrinkle
•Poor abrasion resistance
•Laundering (weak when wet)
Characteristics
•Man made silk alternative
•Soft
Great drape
•Resistant to shrinking
•As a chemical, acetate is found in nail polish and
nail polish remover.
•From cellulose of deconstructing wood or cotton
•Found in formal wear and clothing lining
Proper Care
•Usually dry clean only
•Never treat with acetone
How acetate fiber is made:
Acetate is made from filaments of wood shavings that are extruded as liquid and set
to form a fiber. The fibers are woven together to create a fabric that is similar to silk
in texture and appearance. Since acetate is derived for wood, which is a natural
occurring substance it is the most ecological friendly synthetic fabric.
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Polyester
Characteristics
Most used synthetic fiber in the US
Polymer created from coal, water, and
petroleum
Fine to heavy weight
Often mixed with other fibers to create
a blended fabric
Proper Care
•
•
Disadvantages
•
•
•
Holds oily stains
Static and pilling problems
Hydrophobic
What do you predict will happen
when polyester is ignited? Why?
What would happen if it was mixed
with another fiber?
Washes easily on any temperature
The more often you wash polyester the
more likely piling is to occur
Advantages
•Best “wash and wear” fabric
•Very good strength and abrasion
resistance
•Will not shrink or stretch
•Resists wrinkles
•Washable
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How polyester fiber is made:
Polyester is made from petroleum byproducts creating a polymer. Fibers are
derived chemical reactions involving coal, petroleum, air, and water. When
making polyester fabric the polymers are extruded and heated to create long,
thin fibers. They are stretched when hot until they are five times their original
length making a strong fiber.
What is Pilling? Why does it happen?
Pilling is the formation of group of short or broken fibers on the
surface of a fabric. These broken fibers then tangle together to
form ball called a pill. Pills usually form after the garment has been
worn several times. Pilling occurs more likely on hydrophobic
fibers because they have greater electrical static attraction than
hydrophilic fibers do.
What natural fiber is polyester normally blended
with?
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Characteristics



How rayon fiber is made:
Rayon is the oldest manufactured fiber. It is
Cotton alternative, and has similar qualities
produced when the compound cellulose is
Made from wood pulp
converted to a soluble compound. The liquid of
Many different types
this compound is passed through a spinneret to
form fiber filaments, Which are then spun into fabric
by a wet or
Proper Care
•Some fabrics are machine washable but
most are cry clean only
Advantages
•Inexpensive
•Cotton-like
•Absorbs moisture
Disadvantages
Weak when wet
Should be dry cleaned
Not very strong
Rayon
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Characteristics
Spandex
Can stretch at least 100%, but can snap
back into shape.
Often blended with rayon, wool or silk
Commonly used in active wear
Provides elasticity to clothing
Proper Care
•When cleaning avoid
chlorine, drying, or a hot
iron.
Advantages
•Excellent stretch
•Great recovery
•Washable
How spandex fiber is made:
Spandex is made of numerous
polymer strands. During
production the polymers are
stretched to their fullest capacity.
After the force is removed the
fibers return to its relaxed state.
By using the elastic properties of
the spandex fibers we can create
fabrics that can have stretching
capabilities.
Disadvantages
Not as strong when combined with
other fibers
Have to avoid high heat
Have to avoid chlorine bleach
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Stain solutions
• Mustard Stains
Use a solution containing a combination of rubbing alcohol
and dish soap. Mix a solution of three parts dish soap (liquid
version only) and one part rubbing alcohol. Be sure that you
have an absorbent material under the stain before you
apply the solution. Put this solution on the stain and allow it
to soak for at least 10 minutes, but not too long such that it
dries. The alcohol in this solution may make the stain look
dark temporarily, but not to worry, it will rinse out! Rinse the
treated area thoroughly with hot water, and then launder
with laundry detergent
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Stain Solutions
• Grass Stains
This mix of bleach with hydrogen peroxide makes an
incredible grass stain remover. To use this method, you
should mix equal parts bleach and peroxide and then mix
three parts of cold water. Place it directly on the stained
area and then let it sit. After it has set for about an hour,
you should then rinse it thoroughly and then wash the item
as normal.
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Stain Solutions
• Motor Oil
Method 1
• Grab a grease-cutting detergent and a scrub brush.
• Apply the detergent to the stain and then scrub with the scrub brush.
• Add hot water and scrub it some more.
• If you are outdoors, blot it up and then flush with boiling hot water.
Method 2
• Some experts swear by using a powdered laundry detergent.
• They sprinkle the laundry detergent directly on the stain,
• Apply enough water to make a paste, scrub it , and leave it overnight.
• Add more water, scrub and then wash off.
• Most likely, you will still be able to see stain on the surface. Repeat the process
using the detergent and scrubbing as hard as possible with the scrub brush. Blot
it up, flush with hot water.
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Stain Solutions
Grease
• You might have heard it before that dishwashing detergent liquid is
great at cutting grease. Well it doesn’t just work wonders on your
dishes. It can also be a great way to get tough grease off your hands
and even grease stains from clothing.
• You will always have better results if you use it on a fresh stain but
people have claimed it works on even older stains in some fabrics.
• Place the dishwashing detergent directly on the stain.
• Allow it to soak into stain for a few minutes
• Wash the garment as you normally would.
• Before drying, check to be sure the stain is completely removed
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Stain Solutions
Juice/ Kool-aid Stain
• Step 1: Treat the clothing or fabric with liquid laundry detergent (use heavy-duty
detergent, not mild), coating the stain with the detergent. Then, let it sit for
several minutes.
• Step 2: Rinse off the detergent and stained area with cool (not warm or hot)
water.
• Step 3: If this has not removed the stain continue on to step 4. Otherwise,
launder in the hottest water the fabric will allow to get out the stain, and either
chlorine bleach if the fabric will allow it, or color bleach if not.
• Step 4: If the above method did not remove the stain, create a presoak solution
to place the stained fabric in for at least 30 minutes, and possibly as long as
overnight. This presoak solution should contain 1/4 cup of chlorine bleach
(oxygen bleach if chlorine bleach is not safe on the fabric) and one gallon of
water.
•
Step 5: After presoaking, follow step 3 above and launder as directed
.
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Assignments
• Complete the story problems—
• Notebook check beginning of class by Tuesday
-- Or today . . .
– Orange Section: Wordsearch, Sewing Equipment
pages, Details of the Machine, Terms.
– Green Section: Ironing/Pressing Notes
– Yellow Section: All weaves & fiber notes (will talk
about Fabric Grain Next Unit)
– Worth 100 Points!
• Turn in your Portfolio!!!
• TIME--VIDEOS
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