History of 20th Century Fashion Spring 2016 College of Visual Arts and Design M/W 2:00 pm- 3:20 pm ADES 3585.001 Welch St Complex 149 Instructor: Adjunct Instructor Barbara Trippeer Email: barbaratrippeer@my.unt.edu Office: Welch St Complex 121A (940) 565-2000 Office Hours: M/W 10:00 -11:00 Description: ADES 3585 is an in-depth examination of significant 20th-century designers and their contributions toward the development of haute couture and reday-to-wear fashion. The Texas Fashion Collection used as a major resource. Required Text: Survey of Historic Costume, 6th edition* Phyllis Tortora and Keith Eubank New York: Fairchild Publications, 2015 A Cultural History of Fashion in the 20th and 21st Centuries, from catwalk to sidewalk, 2nd edition Bonnie English Bloomsbury Press Additional required readings posted as pdfs on Blackboard Important Information: Go to www.unt.edu and click on Blackboard to access your courses for spring semester. Please follow the prompts to update and/or reconfigure your browser before launching a new course. We will use internal email within Blackboard as our main communication tool. Be sure to look at Blackboard every day for Announcements and Updates! **If you are sick or missing class, do not contact the main Art Office. Notify me through email via Eaglenet: barbaratrippeer@my.unt.edu. ****It is important to account for an absence as soon as you know the circumstance – not several days later. Please submit an unexcused absence request form with completed documentation immediately upon returning to class, or else it will count as an unexcused absence. After 3 absences, student’s final grade will be lowered one letter grade. After 5 absences, student’s final grade will be lowered two letter grades. The class is scheduled to begin promptly at 2:00 pm. Accrual of three late arrivals, early departures, or tardies will amount to the equivalent to one unexcused absence. instructor contact info: barbaratrippeer@my.unt.edu 1 History of 20th Century Fashion Spring 2016 College of Visual Arts and Design M/W 2:00 pm- 3:20 pm ADES 3585.001 Welch St Complex 149 Goals and Objectives: 1. To learn about the historical developments in 20th century fashion and art. 2. To emphasize the major fashion designers within the context of their career. 3. To explore relationships of fashion design with the movements and stylistic changes in art throughout the 20th century. 4. To expand critical thinking about the social and political relevance of fashion ideas. 5. To learn research methods that will expand the student's use of other source materials and to experience compiling, organizing, and presenting material. 6. To be able to relate 20th century fashion history to your profession in the field. ATTENDANCE POLICY: Prompt attendance is required and lectures will begin on time. Each day a roll sheet will be passed around for your signature. It is your responsibility to sign in. After 3 unexcused absences your grade may suffer. It is your responsibility to communicate with me about any extenuating circumstances or lengthy illness. Excessive absences may subject you to being dropped without notice. WF for non-attendance may be assigned: February 26 – April 05. Feb. 5 – April 5: last day to drop with a W. Feb. 23: Last day to drop with instructor’s consent. W or WF assigned. February 23 – April 05: Instructor may drop with a grade of WF for nonattendance. Disability Accommodation: If you have a physical or a learning disability that requires special accommodation, please register with the University Office of Disability. An ODA form must then be submitted to the Professor. Other questions about disability accommodations may be answered in the Office of Student Services, room 111, Art Building, at 940-565-2000. Office of Disability Accommodation 1167 Union Circle Sage Hall Suite 167 Denton, TX 76203 USA Voice: (940) 565-4323 Fax: (940) 369-7969 Course risk factor: Category 1 This course has a level 1risk rating. Students are not exposed to any significant hazards and are not likely to suffer any bodily harm. instructor contact info: barbaratrippeer@my.unt.edu 2 History of 20th Century Fashion Spring 2016 College of Visual Arts and Design M/W 2:00 pm- 3:20 pm ADES 3585.001 Welch St Complex 149 Class Schedule: Print out, read, and review all PDFs online in each quarter. Outline the articles and make notes of important information on each designer or topic. You are also required to maintain a sketchbook notebook for each class period, and documenting your research as you progress throughout the course materials. Print out PDF Test Study Guides for Test #1! There is a Part 1 and a Part 2 1:W Jan. 20 Course overview/Syllabus review Lecture #1: Charles Frederick Worth: The First Couturier Review of late 19th century silhouettes Read: Tortora pp. 353-377, Tortora pp: 378-409; and Haute Couture pdf. Assigned in class: self-assessment & personal profiles Assigned in class: Crinoline prom dress sketch Assigned: STEEP Research Project 2:M Jan. 25 **QUIZ: Syllabus review (10 points) Lecture #2: The First Hippies: Pre-Raphaelites, the Aesthetic Movement, and Dress Reform Read PDF online Art & Fashion, pp. 1 of Art Nouveau and Art Deco (Reserve Art Deco for Test 2) Review Tortora CH 14 pp. 382-453; Read PDF online: Aesthetic Dress (Reserve the Adrian chapter for Test 2.) DUE: Crinoline prom dress sketch (10 points) DUE: Student’s submit research topics for approval 2:W Jan. 27 Lecture # 3: Mariano Fortuny and Erté Read Tortora CH 15 pp. 417– 445 Read PDF online Mariano Fortuny Review online: Neo-classical Revival Lecture DUE: Research paper outline, submit online via blackboard (20 points) Assigned: Poster Project 3:M Feb. 1 Lecture #4: Paul Poiret and the Ballet Russes instructor contact info: barbaratrippeer@my.unt.edu 3 History of 20th Century Fashion Spring 2016 College of Visual Arts and Design M/W 2:00 pm- 3:20 pm ADES 3585.001 Welch St Complex 149 Review lecture materials online. Review Tortora CH 15 pp.417-445 Read PDF online Paul Poiret Review for Test 01 3:W Feb. 3 *TEST 1* opens online 9am- 12:00pm Lectures #5: Sonia Delaunay and Cubism Read PDF online Sonia Delaunay 4:M Feb. 5 last day to drop with “W” Feb. 8 last day for 50% refund Feb. 8 Lecture #6: The Chanel Mystique and Jean Patou Read Tortora CH 16 pp. 454-503 Read Bonnie English CH 2 p.29-44 Continue to review during Test 2 Poster Project check in 4:W Feb. 10 CHANEL DVD in class ****special off-site this week to Galleria for TFC special exhibition, with guest lecturer Myra Walker DUE: Research Project Bibliography, with updated Outline Submit online via Blackboard (40 points) 5:M Feb. 15 Lecture #7 Fashion & Surrealism: Introduction Read Haute Couture pdf Read Art & Fashion pdf Read Bonnie English CH 3 p.44-58 5:W Feb 17 Lecture #8: Fashion and Surrealism: Elsa Schiaparelli & Man Ray Read PDFs online! DUE: Process critique Poster Project (group A only: 30 points) 6:M Feb. 22 Lecture # 9: 1930s: Glamour, Romance, and Fantasy Read PDFs online! DUE: Process critique Poster Project (group B only: 30 points) Feb. 23 last day to drop with instructor consent instructor contact info: barbaratrippeer@my.unt.edu 4 History of 20th Century Fashion Spring 2016 College of Visual Arts and Design ADES 3585.001 M/W 2:00 pm- 3:20 pm 6:W Welch St Complex 149 Feb. 24 Lecture # 10: 1930s: Madeleine Vionnet & Madame Grés Feb. 26 last day to drop or withdraw with “W” 7:M Feb. 29 *DUE: Notebook A check (40 points) Lecture #11: 1930s: Molyneux, Mainbocher 7:W March 2 Lecture #12: 1940s: Gilbert Adrian & Hollywood Read Adrian PDF; (it is attached to Aesthetic Dress) Review for Test 02 8:M March 7 Lecture #13: 1940s: World War II Fashion 8:W March 09 Examples from TFC – bring notebook to sketch. *End TEST 2* **Test #2 will be posted online. Open 9 am-12 pm 9: 10:M Mar. 14-20 March 21 Spring Break- no classes! Lecture #14: 1950s: Christian Dior: The New Look Read Tortora CH 17 pp. 504 -540 Continue to review for Test 3 10:W March 23 **DUE: Rough Draft of Research Paper submit online (40 points) Lecture #15: 1950s: Balenciaga: The Grand Master Read Bonnie English CH 3 p. 58-60 Read all PDFS online 11:M March 28 Lecture #16: 1950s: American Women in Design: Claire McCardell, Bonnie Cashin, Pauline Trigère, & Adele Simpson Read Bonnie English CH 4 p. 66-84 11:W March 30 *Research Projects DUE at the beginning of class!* **DUE: Poster Project turn in hard copies (120 points) Lecture # 17: 12:M April 4 1950s: James Galanos and Charles James Lecture #18: 1950s: Norman Norell *End Test 3* Test 03 Review instructor contact info: barbaratrippeer@my.unt.edu 5 History of 20th Century Fashion College of Visual Arts and Design M/W 2:00 pm- 3:20 pm 12:W Spring 2016 ADES 3585.001 Welch St Complex 149 April 5 last day to drop class April 6 1950’s Examples from TFC. Bring notebook to sketch. **Test #3 will be posted online. Open 9 am – 12 pm. 13:M April 11 Lecture # 19: Birth of Rock-n-Roll: Art, Fashion, and Music Read Tortora CH 18 pp. 540 – 590 Continue to review during Test 3 13:W April 13 Lecture #20: The Radical 60s: Pierre Cardin, Mary Quant, André Courrèges, Rudi Gernreich, Paco Rabanne, Emanuel Ungaro, & Emilio Pucci Read Bonnie English CH 5 & 6 p.85-124 Read PDF 14:M April 18 Lecture #21: 1960s: Yves Saint Laurent Review for Test 4 14:W April 20 Lecture #22: The Seventies: Scaasi, Oscar de la Renta, Mary McFadden, Diane Von Furstenberg, Zandra Rhodes, & Halston Read Bonnie English 6 p.111-124 Read PDF 15:M April 25 **DUE: FINAL Notebook (40 points) Lecture #23: Late 1970s: Punk & Beyond Read Tortora CH 19 pp. 590 – 650, Continue to review for Test 4 15:W April 27 Lecture #24: 1980s and 1990s: Designers Read Bonnie English CH 8 p.141-161 PREFINALS WEEK 16:M May 2 Review for test 04 **DUE: Research Presentations Group A (120 points) 16:W May 4 Review for test 04 **DUE: Research Presentations Group B (120 points) Final will be launched May 9-11 until midnight. Final Exam *End TEST 4* instructor contact info: barbaratrippeer@my.unt.edu 6 History of 20th Century Fashion Spring 2016 College of Visual Arts and Design ADES 3585.001 M/W 2:00 pm- 3:20 pm Welch St Complex 149 Final Exam will be posted online Monday 5/9 and open until Wednesday 5/11. Open times 9 am- 12 pm. Grading (total class value: 1000 points) Tests, Quizes, Assignments, and Exams: total 420 points Test # 1 100 pts. Wk 3 2/03 Test # 2 100 pts. Wk 8 3/09 Test # 3 100 pts. Wk 12 4/06 Test # 4 100 pts. (Final) Wk 17 4/9-4/11 Quiz (syllabus) 10 points Wk 2 1/25 Wk 2 1/25 Assignment: Crinoline prom dress sketch: 10 points Total Notebook: 80 points Wk 7 2/29 Notebook A: 40 points Wk 14 4/25 Notebook B: 40 points Total Research Projects: 970 pts. Total Research Paper: 200 points Outline: 20 points wk 2 1/27 Bibliography:40 points wk 4 2/10 Draft: wk 10 40 points Final Paper: 100 points 3/23 wk 14 4/20 Total Research Poster: 150 points Process Crit: 30 points wk 5/6 2/17-2/22 Final Poster: 120 points wk 11 3/30 instructor contact info: barbaratrippeer@my.unt.edu 7 History of 20th Century Fashion Spring 2016 College of Visual Arts and Design ADES 3585.001 M/W 2:00 pm- 3:20 pm Welch St Complex 149 Research Presentation: 120 points wk 16 5/02-5/04 Total Class Participation: 30 points Part 1: 10 points wk 1-wk 5 Part 2: 10 points wk 6- wk 10 Part 3: 10 points wk 11- wk 16 Total: 1000 pts. Failure to complete any test, research project or final exam may result in a failing grade. Missing a test is serious. Arrangements to take a make-up test must be scheduled within 24 hours of the original test time. Student is responsible for contacting the professor. Please take the time to fill out the SETE student evaluation of this class at the announced time. There may be extra credit bonus points if 100 % class participates in the evaluation. Every student must sign a course acknowledgment form that indicates you have received all relevant course information. Thank you! I___________________________________________ acknowledge that I have read the course syllabus. I understand the course structure, grading and attendance policies as well as the risk factor rating. I hereby agree to the syllabus and its provisions. ADES 3585.001 Spring 2016 instructor contact info: barbaratrippeer@my.unt.edu 1 8 History of 20th Century Fashion Spring 2016 College of Visual Arts and Design ADES 3585.001 M/W 2:00 pm- 3:20 pm Welch St Complex 149 Course number and section Student Name (print) Risk Rating Phone and Email (UNT email) 01/20/2016 Date _____________________________________ Student Signature 01/20/16 Barbara Cottrell Trippeer Faculty Name instructor contact info: barbaratrippeer@my.unt.edu Signature Date 9