Textile Fiber and Fabric Production
Fibers
The conversion process

________________________________ refers to any material that can be made into fabric by any method
o Textile Industry covers the entire apparel industry: production and marketing from raw material
to the retail store.
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Fibers

_______________________________________
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Fabrics

_______________________________________
Production and Marketing Chain [insert chain]
Fibers
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Hair-like materials which form the ________________ elements of fabrics and other textiles

All fiber producers must fill consumer needs
o _________________________, moisture regain, elasticity, _________________, or crimp

Classified as
o ________________________________________ fibers
o ________________________________________ fibers
Natural Fiber Production
Natural Fiber Categories

Natural Fibers
o Plants – _________________________________

Cotton

Flax
o Animals – ________________________________

Wools

Silk
Cotton

World’s major fiber
o ______________________________ is leading country; US is second
o Cotton Belt: 17 ___________________________ states
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Vegetable fiber
o Grows best in _________________________________ and subtropical climates

Fiber grows in __________________ (green pods)
o Once ripe and open - ready to be picked
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Manufacturing
o Based on production system used and quality of ______________ desired
o ___________________________: an operation that separates the fiber from the seed.
Cotton Production Process
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Grows
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__________________________________________
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Ginned
o Separating the fiber from the seed
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________________________________________
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Carded (straightening the fibers)
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Combed
o Removes short fibers, resulting in a smooth, uniform yarn
Quality Factors

Quality determines end use and price
o ______________________________
o Maturity
o Strength
o ________________________
o Fineness
Why cotton?
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Washable

________________________________________
o Wrinkle-resistant properties have been added
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Absorbent
o Absorbs ______________________________ easily
o Absorbs _____________________________, which makes you feel cool in hot, humid weather

Can be light or heavy weight
o Light and sheer (_______________________ and batiste)
o Heavy and thick (corduroy, ___________________________, and chenille)
o Strong and sturdy (_______________________)
Flax

Flax is made from the fibrous material in the ______________ of the flax plant.
o Fiber is flax and the fabric is _________________________

Linen is the ______________________ known textile
o Dates back to the stone age
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Stem of plant
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Length of fiber affects _________________________

______% is grown in Russia
o ___________________________ is the largest producer in the Western world.


France and Belgium grow the best flax
Cool summer clothing
Flax processes

______________________________
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Removal of adhesive substances and flax seeds that bind fibers together
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Breaking
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______________________________

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Fibers are separated from the outer bark and woody inner core of the stem
_______________________________ /combing
Ramie

Ramie is a __________________________
fiber similar to flax
o Grows best in subtropical climate

Stronger than ________________
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Imported from India, China, and the
Philippines

Smooth, lustrous appearance
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__________% ramie very difficult to spin
o Brittle, often mixed with cotton to
soften
Wool
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_____________________ and renewable

Resistant to wrinkling
resource
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Thermal properties means warmth
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Absorbs up to 30% of weight in moisture
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Absorbs dye easily
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Returns to natural position after stretching
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Other fibers classified in the wool family

_________________________________
Specialty wools

______________________________
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Llama
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Camel’s hair

____________________________
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Cashmere
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Vicuna

__________________________
Wool cleaning process
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Scoured
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________________________________
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Combed
o Woolens
o ______________________
Silk
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Only natural fiber considered a ________________________________________ filament
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__________________________ is secreted from head and wound around the silk worm to form a cocoon
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Silk is steeped and boiled in soap baths to remove sticky substance and allow unwinding
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Triangular and reflects light

_____________________________________ properties
o Cool in summer and warm in winter

Drapes well
Types of Silk
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______________________________ silk

_______________________________ silk

Wild or Tussah silk
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Schappe and bourette silks
High-Tech Natural Fibers

________________________________ Silk
o To capture strength of spider filaments for use in fabrics
o Nexia Biotechnologies (Montreal, Canada)

________________________________ Fiber
o A protein found in cows milk
o Toyobo of Japan

The following are in the experimental stages of development today:
o Fibers from the sasawashi leaf, lenpur, __________________________________, and soybean
Man-Made Fibers
The Industry of Man-Made Fibers

Dominated by large ____________________________________________ companies

Industry requires mass production for purposes of efficiency

Strong competition from ______________________________

Requires marketing of fiber product to consumers

Blended with __________________________ fibers to achieve final product with positive characteristics
of both fibers
Man-Made Fiber Production

Extruded from a ______________________________ solution of cellulose (purified ______________ pulp)
or from chemical raw material
o Then converted to a liquid state

Raw materials are converted into ________________________, chips, _________________________, or
pellets
o Then dissolved in a solvent, melted with heat, or ________________________________ converted
into a syrupy liquid and pumped through tiny holes of a spinneret

_______________________________- the process of extrusion and hardening
Man-Made Fibers

Origins as replacement for expensive fibers (silk)

Two types:
o ________________________________
o Synthetic
The MM Cellulosic fibers
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Rayon

______________________________________
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Triacetate
Rayon
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Sourced from wood pulp, cotton linters,
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___________________________________________ matter dissolved

Formed into fibers (process discussed later)
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Expensive to produce to environmental standards, limited worldwide production

Led to development of _________________________________
Synthetic Fibers

Also known as ____________________________________ fibers
o ____________________________
o ______________________________
o Polyester
o Polypropylene
o Acrylic
Nylon
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Strong

____________________________________

_____________________________________
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Colorfast
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Flexible
Polyester
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Most popular

______________________________________
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__________________________ resistant
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Forms
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Easy care
o Filament
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Often blended with
o _____________________________

natural
o Tow- short or broken fiber
Acrylic

High bulk-to-weight ratio
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Provides _________________________
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___________________________, fleece active wear, _____________________, coats, and fake furs
Spandex

Unequaled elasticity

Does not ____________________________________

Usually blended in amounts of __________________________%
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Swimwear, hosiery, activewear
High-Tech Man-Made Fibers

Companies such as ______________________________________, Nomex, and Zylon
o Strong of have high-temperature resistance
o For use in the ______________________________________, firefighters, outdoor recreation and
apparel

New generation of synthetic fibers based on __________________________________________ and
biodegradable materials instead of oil

_________________ (polyactic acid)
o Generic classification for _______________-based polymer
o Cross between natural and man-made fiber
Generic and Brand Identification

US Federal Trade Commission assigns all new fibers a _____________________________ name

Brand Name or ______________________________________ is an identifiable symbol

The Textile Fibers Products Identification Act
o All textile products must follow the law
o In general,


Use of generic fiber name

In __________________________________ descending order
__________________________________ are specialty fibers for special occasions
Textile Yarn and Fabric Producers
Textile Mills

Mills are the producers of ________________________

May sell _________________________ (pronounced gray) goods to converters to be finished or produce
both
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Small mills specialize in one fabric
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_____________________________________ Mills
o Growth of firms forward or backward into the production or marketing chain
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Mills increase purchasing of the latest technology to offset the low ______________ cost advantage of
importing

Most US mills are suited to ____________________-volume production
o In recent years due to competition from imports, many have begun to do small runs and more
design changes
Converters



Only do _____________________________
conversion
stages of production

Numbers are declining
Fewer converters exist due to importing of

May ______________________ outside USA
goods

Source- finding the best quality goods at the
Large companies do their ________
best price
Yarn Production
Filament Yarn Processing

Filament Yarn Processing
o _________________ Filament: twisted in a specialized silk spinning process
o ___________________________ Filament: textured to provide bulk, loft, or elasticity

____________________________ is a process used on filament yarn to change the shape
or characteristic into some form of crimp, curl, or coil
Spinning Staple Fibers

__________________________ Fibers
o Cotton, flax, wood
o Each fiber has its own ___________________________________________ system
o Gives them strength to withstand the spinning process

______________________________________ Fibers
o Cut into staple and spun on the same conventional spinning system used for cotton or on a new
high-speed system to make yarn
Fabric Production
Fabric

A cloth or material made from yarns

Most popular
o Wovens
o ____________________________
o _______________________________
o Laminating
o Bonding
Weaving

Interlacing of warp and ___________________ (filling) yarns
o __________________________ is a process which yarns are wound onto a beam

Warp yarns run _______________________________________, parallel to selvage (the edge of the fabric)

Weft yarns are filling yarns and run perpendicular to selvage

Loom speed and weave complexity are inversely related

Warp yarns separate alternately (called ________________________________) to allow the filling yarns to
interlace with them as they pass through the warp.
Plain weaves
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One warp over one weft

Most _____________________________________

Easy to manufacture
Twill weaves

_______________________ passes over a
number of warp yarns

Repetition shifts each weft row

_____________________________________

Diagonal weave created

Denim most popular
Satin Weave
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One warp over a number of warp yarns

Floats create ________________________________, luster

Floats susceptible to damage
Creating Patterns in Wovens

Yarn-dye Patterns:
o Distinguished differently from prints because the patterns appear on __________________ sides
of the fabric


Plaids, stripes and checks
May also be produced by reversing the direction of the weave in certain areas or in alternate rows
(__________________________________________)

Variations of the 3 basic weaves are called ___________________________________ weaves

__________________________________:
o Cam, dobby, or Jacquard looms
Knits

__________________________ continuous yarn or combination of yarns

Loops drawn through other loops

Stretch depends upon _________________________, yarn construction, and knit production

_________________________= number of needles per inch, the more needles the finer and closer knit the
loops
o ____________-cut machine has 10 needles per inch
o 5-cut machine with 5 needles per inch is the most common

Warp and Weft knitting are the ______ basic methods of _____________________________ fabric
Weft Knitting

Loops run __________________________________________ across width of fabric
o Made on either a flatbed or circular machine


________________________________ machines produce single or double knits
Generally more stretch

____________________________________ most popular
Variations on Jersey Knit

Purl-knit: reverse side of jersey; sweater knits

__________________-knit: distinctive lengthwise rib on both sides of the fabric for added stretch

Interlock: looks like jersey on both sides of the fabric

Knit and welt: front and back beds of the knitting machines to create a welt

___________________ Jacquard: pattern on the face side

Full Jacquard: full pattern on the face side, simple pattern on the back

__________________________________: include tuck stitches, miss stitches, and pointelles
Nonwoven Fabrics

Nonwoven (__________________________________) fabrics are made by bonding or interlocking fibers,
filaments, or yarns into a web or sheet by
o Mechanical (pressure, needle punch, or needle tufting),
o _____________________________
o Thermal (heat)
o _______________________________
o Solvent

Examples include nonwoven interfacings and nonwoven felt
Production Centers

______________________ produces the most woven woolen apparel fabrics
o Italy is next

Hong Kong produces the most woolen knitwear (varies year to year)
o _________________________________
o China
o Italy

Better ________________________________ come from Italy and Switzerland

The US produces more _______________________________ than any other country
o Largest cotton producer is ________________, followed by eastern Europe, India and then the US

__________________________- Italy
o Belgium
o Northern Ireland
o France, China and Poland
Dyeing
Dyeing

Most lustrous and most _________________________________ to least (follows the production process)
o Producer colored-dyed in chemical solution
o ________________________ dyed-in raw fiber form
o Yarn dying
o Piece dying-fabric
o ____________________________ dying
o Also: cross dyeing
Printing
Printing

Wet Printing
o Engraved roller printing
o ___________________________ printing


Flatbed Screen Printing

Rotary Screen Printing
Dry printing
o _____________________________________________/Paper printing

Digital Printing
Finishing
Finishing

Processes used to enhance the fabric
o ____________________________________
o Appearance
o __________________________________________

Physical means

Chemical means
Physical Means

______________________________________

Shearing

Heat setting

____________________________/sueding

Napping

Shrink control

________________________ repellency
Chemical methods

Caustic reduction

______________________________________

Durable press

______________________________________
Other Finishes

Flame retardant

Mildew resistance

____________________________ light

________________________ resistance
resistance

Stain resistance

Fade resistance
Eco-Friendly Fibers
Environmental Concerns

New emphasis on _______________________________________ measures

New standards for production

_____________________________________ of fibers

R&D activities

____________________________________ passed to consumers

Countries vary in requirements