Fabrics
Apparel 2 – obj. 1.02
Fabric Construction:
Weaving and Knitting
Woven Fabrics
 Interlacing
2
sets of yarns at
right angles to
each other
Plain Weave
 Simplest
of all
weaves
 Most common
 Over, under;
over, under
 **broadcloth,
gingham, poplin
 muslin, and
many others
Twill Weave
 Diagonal
weave
 **denim,
gabardine
 **firm, heavy
weave
Satin Weave
 Shiny,
reflects
light
 Smooth and
slippery
 Frays a lot
 **lustrous
appearance
Leno Weave
 Pairs
of threads
crossed over
 Looks “open”
 Fruit bags,
mosquito netting
Pile Weave
 Raised
surface
 Loopy or furry
 Velvet
 Corduroy
Knits
– one yarn
 Warp – several
yarns
 Purl – looks the
same on both
sides
 Weft
Purl Knit
Warp Knit
Weft Knit
Weft Knit**
 Uses
one yarn
 **Single knit,
ribbed and jersey
Double Knit
2
yarns and 2
sets of needles
 Heavier and
sturdier
 Doesn’t run or
ravel
Ribbed Knit
 Vertical
ribs on
front and back
 Neck and wrist
bands on
sweaters
Jersey Knit
 Most
common
knit
 Plain, single knit
 T-shirts
 Very
fine vertical
wales on the right
side
 Stable knit – lies
flat
 Doesn’t run or
ravel
 Lingerie,
underwear
 Very fast to weave
Tricot Knit
Raschel Knit
 Uses
extra
yarn to create
a pattern
Non-woven
 Leather,
lace,
felt, disposable
fabrics
 Heat, moisture
 Adhesive,
bonding
 Yarns and layers
Non-woven
 Interlocking
fibers
 Don’t fray or
ravel
 Flexible
 Might tear easily
Felting
 Hot
washing and
drying wool
 Shrinks
 Soft and fluffy
Interfacing
 Very
light to very
heavy and stiff
 Padding
(quilting)
 Fusible or sew-in
Fabric Finishes
 Special
treatments applied to improve
a fabric’s appearance, texture or
performance
“Gray Goods”
 Before
any color
or finish is added
to the product.
Bleaching
 Used
to
remove
impurities in
fabric to ensure
a “true dye.”
Yarn Dyed
 Yarns
are dyed
before weaving or
knitting.
 Good for plaids,
checks, and
stripes. **
Fiber Dyed **
 AKA “Stock
Dyeing”
 Natural fibers
dyed before
spun into yarn
 Uniform color
and good color
fastness
Piece Dyed**
Fabric
dyed
after weaving
or knitting
Garment Dyed
 Fabric
is cut
and sewn
 Entire garment
or item is dyed
Printing Techniques
Color
is
transferred
to surface of
fabric to
form a
pattern
Roller
Printing
pres
with circular
rollers
One for
each color
Rotary Screen
Fast,
inexpensive
3500 yards
per hour
Good for large
designs**
Texture and Performance Finishes
Improves
surface feel
of fabric
Improve
comfort and
wear ability
Napping
 Raised,
Fabric
Fuzzy
Sizing
 Extra
body and
weight
 Adds Starch
Weighting
 A textured
finish applied to make the
garment stiffer and heavier looking than it
is
 Advantage is to use a cheaper lighter
weight fabric and make it appear stronger
than it really is