Seurasaari is one of the most popular open air sites. It’s especially favoured by people wishing to get away from it all. A long wooden bridge leads onto the island, where you will find an extensive ”open air museum”: a collection of vernacular styles of Finnish wooden architecture. Massive spruce-trees by the pathways reinforce the feeling of Finnish national identity. You will also find pleasant coastal scenery on the approach to the island at nearby Meilahti with its old, spacious villas, an arboretum, the President Urho Kekkonen Museum and the residence of the incumbent Finnish president. ARCHIPELAGO SEURASAARI How to get there Bus 24, which leaves from Erottaja every 20 minutes, takes you to the foot of the bridge onto the island (the terminus). Tram 4 and buses 14 and 18 go from the city centre and pass along Paciuksenkatu Street, close to the island. The bridge onto the island is always open; a charge is levied only for the midsummer festivities. Motoring and cycling are prohibited on the island. The various buildings which make up the museum are open from 1 Jun to 31 Aug 11am-5pm, Wednesdays till 7pm. From 15 May to 31 May and from 1 to 15 Sept. the buildings are open Mon-Fri from 9am-3pm, Sat and Sun 11am-5pm. Entrance to the museum buildings costs 5 € for adults, 4 € for pensioners and students; free entrance for under-18’s. You can buy a brochure (in Finnish or English) from a kiosk on the island. For further information § 4050 9660 in summer, § 40 50 9574 in winter. http://www.nba.fi/fi/seurasaari Lots of people go to Seurasaari to feed the squirrels and birds. Even back in the 1930’s, tame squirrels lived on the island, probably the first ones in Helsinki. Whenever there is open water under the bridge leading onto the island, you may see mallards, but also mute swans, Canada geese and tufted ducks. Oystercatchers and great crested grebe nest nearby. In spring, you will hardly fail to hear the insistent hammering of the lesser spotted woodpeckers which nest on Seurasaari and along nearby shores. The duck-ponds dug out on the southern part of the island are good places to observe bats on summer nights. A spinner may land pike or pike-perch from the rocky promontories S I T E S O F I N T E R E S T - LET’S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI 37 ARCHIPELAGO CAUS PITK EWAY OSP UUT @ 24 LIPUNMYYNTI TICKET OFFICE P P P ULKOMUSEON TOIMISTO MUSEUM OFFICE P M Luonnonsuojelualue Nature reserve of Seurasaari. The south and south-west shores offer a very representative selection of the marine flora of the Gulf of Finland. Woad (Isatis tinctoria), once used for dyeing fabrics, grows in Humallahti Bay. You can observe birds characteristic of coniferous forests, according to the season. Stoat and mink inhabit the shores, too. In winter, foxes prowl around, scavenging for fish discarded by fisherfolk. A hurricane that swept over Helsinki in August, 1890 felled over 5000 trees. One of the survivors was a now gigantic and protected Scots pine, among the largest in the city. You will find this tree in the backyard of ‘Jusupoff’s Stable’. At the foot of this tree is a peculiar ants’-nest, which has partially crept its way into fissures in the trunk. Not far away in nearby Meilahti, at 11 Seurasaarentie Road, is another massive, protected pine tree. Very close to this tree, at the south end of 38 LET’S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI - SITES OF INTEREST PRONSSIKAUTINEN HAUTA BRONZE AGE GRAVE RESIDENTIN VIRKA-ASUNTO RESIDENTAL RESIDENCE ARCHIPELAGO c PÄÄMINISTERIN VIRKA-ASUNTO PRIMEMINISTERS OFFICIAL RESIDENCE THE SIBELIUS MONUMENT N NUORTEN LUONTOTALO YOUNG PEOPLES NATURE HOUSE 0 c 100 m US Y TÖKESK PÄRIS ENT AGENC M EN YM SUOM H ENVIRON IS N N FI VENE MUSTASAAREEN BOAT TO MUSTASAARI-ISLAND P HAUTAUSMAA CEMETERY Heikinniementie Road, is a colony of hogweed (Heracleum sphondylium). This plant, a rarity in Finland, found its way here at the end of the second world war, when a German baggage-train was held up nearby. Here the plant remains as a living symbol of a past military alliance, a modest reminder of a horses’ feeding place by the home of Finland’s future presidents. S I T E S O F I N T E R E S T - LET’S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI 39 ARCHIPELAGO History Seurasaari was established as a national park for the workers in 1890. Its name, which translates roughly as ‘Social’ or ‘Meeting-place Island’, reflects this purpose. The construction of the paths, the bridge, steam-boat jetty and the plantings were sponsored by the Helsinki Liquor Company, which set out to improve the lot of poor people rather than make large profits. On the island the common people were allowed things that were not seemly in the downtown parks frequented by the gentlefolk: bonfires, hammocks - and lounging around. Towards the end of the 19th century there were two free dance floors, but they had to be demolished because of the incessant fighting! Right at the outset the park’s fixtures included cells with double log walls for drunks to cool down in. Nowadays, dancing on the dance floor is in again, and the Midsummer festivities are especially popular with families. The open-air museum demonstrating Finnish vernacular architecture was built during the 1910’s. The originator of the undertaking was the folklorist A.O. Heikel, whose grave is on Seurasaari. There are presently more than 80 buildings from various parts of the country. The oldest is the church, which dates back to the 17th century. The other buildings are from the 18th and 19th centuries. There are also some amazing buildings from our hunting culture: a bear-proof meat store and cabins of backwood dwellers. A r t o N i r o n e n 40 LET’S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI - SITES OF INTEREST ARCHIPELAGO On the west side of the bridge is the small island of Pukkisaari with a cluster of buildings representing the Iron Age. You approach the isle by a wooden causeway. The buildings are open from 15 to 31 May and from 1 to 15 September daily from 12am to 3pm and from 1 June to 31 August daily 12am to 5pm. http://www.sommelo.hai.fi/ Seurasaari has a nudist beach, for which there is an entrance charge. A r t o N i r o n e n S I T E S O F I N T E R E S T - LET’S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI 41 ARCHIPELAGO The coastal promenade from Meilahti to the Sibelius Park and Hietaniemi. Along the stretch of shore between the president’s former and present houses in Meilahti is a promenade set in a pleasant park, with a high rocky outcrop at its eastern end. By Johannesbergintie Road (on the right as you look towards Seurasaari) is Meilahti Arboretum, which includes a small collection of old roses. At the junction of Seurasaarentie Road and Paciuksenkatu Street, the rocks are capped by a heap of stones, a Bronze Age burial-place. A striking-looking fern, forked spleenwort (Asplenium septentrionale), grows on the seaward face of the steep rock-faces. The coastal boulevard goes on past the president’s official residence towards Sibelius Park. As well as the Sibelius Monument, the park boasts an elegant ochre-painted wooden villa, the Young People’s Nature House (36 Mechelininkatu Street), part of which is given over to the activities of young naturalists. On the south side of the park (6 Kesäkatu Street) is the large building used by the Finnish Environmental Centre, a governmental department mainly devoted to environmental research. There are photograph and art exhibitions in the lobby. The centre (doorway C, 2nd floor) holds the largest collection of environmental literature in Finland. The library is open weekdays from 9am-4.15pm, the rest of the building from 8am-4pm. tel 403 000. The promenade continues from Sibelius Park to Hietaniemi Beach and to the large cemetery of Hietaniemi, where a time-weathered morgue has been in use since the mid-1800’s. Many of Finland’s great men, such as Urho Kekkonen and Field-Marshall Mannerheim, are buried in this cemetery. The coastal park extending from Seurasaari to Hietaniemi is the longest seashore boulevard close to the city centre. Other birds in the area: Eurasian wigeon, goldeneye, red-breasted merganser, common sandpiper, great spotted woodpecker, garden warbler, icterine warbler, coal tit, Eurasian tree-creeper, goldcrest. 42 LET’S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI Other mammals: Northern bat, arctic hare, brown hare, muskrat, weasel. - SITES OF INTEREST ARCHIPELAGO A r t o N i r o n e n KORKEASAARI ZOO Korkeasaari Zoo is largely devoted to conserving endangered animal species. Both Finnish and exotic animals are represented there. A special feature of the zoo are certain arctic species. At Korkeasaari (the name means ‘High Island’), you will find most of the animals that characterise Finnish nature and folklore, such as elks, bears, wild forest reindeer, swans, eagle owls and eagles. Altogether the zoo houses about 150 species, of which a third are Finnish natives. The snow leopard from the Himalayas is the zoo’s S I T E S O F I N T E R E S T - LET’S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI 43 L@ C 11 ARCHIPELAGO N 0 100 m BORELIA-TALO BORELIA-HOUSE ETELÄ-AMERIKKATALO SOUTH AMERICAHOUSE KAUPPATORILLE TO THE MARKETPLACE L M C NAALI, ARTIC FOX MYSKIHÄRKÄ, MUSK OX L HYLJEALLAS SEAL POOL KISSALAAKSO VALLEY OF BIG CATS d PAVIAANILINNA BABOON CASTLE METSÄPEURA WILD FOREST REINDEER SUOMEN MERIMUSEO THE MARITIME MUSEUM OF FINLAND emblem. Snow leopards have flourished and multiplied at Korkeasaari and since the 1960’s have produced about 100 offspring. The cubs have been sent to other zoos in Europe. The Helsinki climate suits many species adapted to the cool conditions of northern or mountain regions. The arctic elements are represented at Korkeasaari by the musk-ox, and by the arctic fox, snowy owl and wild forest reindeer, which have become increasingly rare in Finland. The main task of the zoo is to conserve natural diversity and to educate and instruct people towards conserving nature. These efforts are made on several fronts: by nurturing endangered species, participating in cooperative conservation programmes with other zoos, keeping pedigree records and, in the case of endangered species, rehabilitating animals raised in confinement back into their natural environment. The 44 LET’S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI - SITES OF INTEREST ARCHIPELAGO Cat Valley is inhabited by Eurasian cats, including the highly endangered large species such as the Amur tiger, Amur leopard and the Asian lion. Other animals endangered on a world-wide basis at Korkeasaari include the musk-ox, the Przewalski horse and, in the South American section, some of the smaller apes and various parrots. Golden eagles and snowy owls raised at Korkeasaari have been released into Finnish natural environments. Likewise, alpine ibex from the zoo have been sent to the Austrian Alps, European bison to Russia, lynx to Poland and eagle owls to Sweden. How to get there; services Of world’s zoos, Korkeasaari is one of the very few built on an island. In summer, it’s a memorable experience to make the trip there by boat. Motor-launches leave for the island from both the main market place and from Hakaniemi from April to September. The boats go every half hour, on the hour, from both places. You can travel to the zoo entrance overland with bus 11, which leaves from Herttoniemi metro-station every half hour. In winter, the easiest connections are by metro or bus 16 to Kulosaari, from where a kilometre-and-a-half walk will take you to the entrance via the scenic island of Mustikkamaa. Korkeasaari is open May to Sept. 10am8pm, Oct. to Febr. 10am-4pm and March-April 10am-6pm. Entrance charges by boat/overland for adults are 5/8 €, for children 3/4 €, no charge for under-7’s. There are cafés, a restaurant and a souvenir shop on Korkeasaari. Customer service § 1695 969. Infotel (24h): 0600 95911. www.hel.fi/zoo Natural animal visitors Korkeasaari attracts a number of native winged visitors. The lesser blacked-gull, whose numbers in Finland have dramatically fallen, nests on the rooves of the zoo buildings and on the nearby islet beside the boat harbour. Mew gulls often nest in the large pine-trees in the animal enclosures. Hooded crows, herring gulls and pigeons, those tiresome uninvited guests, scavenge a substantial part of the food intended for the zoo animals. Barnacle geese have colonised the rocks off Korkeasaari. During the 1980’s some wild individuals joined the enclosed colony of barnacle geese to interbreed with them. The progeny were released into natural surroundings. In fact, breeding colonies have rapidly built up in the nearby S I T E S O F I N T E R E S T - LET’S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI 45 ARCHIPELAGO K o r k e a s a a r i z o o waters. You may see hundred of these geese grazing on the extensive grasslands and lawns around Helsinki and Espoo, and nowadays individuals of other kinds of geese frequently join these flocks. In wintertime eagle-owls circle around Korkesaari and nearby Mustikkamaa. At times they try to out-hoot their captive brethren. The long-eared owl often over-winter on the island, too, subsisting on the abundant vole population. You’ll be lucky, though, to spot any owls during daylight hours. The park, vegetation Most of the limes, oaks and larches on the island originate from plantings in the 19th century, when large quantities of 46 LET’S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI - SITES OF INTEREST More unusual plants to be found on the island include the annual stinging-nettle (Urtica urens), with a sharper sting than the common nettle. The annual species, presently classified as rare in Helsinki, is a plant of nutrient-rich sites of human habitation or farmyards, and has found its niche around the animal enclosures. Woad (Isatis tinctoria), once used as a dye, opens its yellow flowers in early summer along the shores of the island. As the vegetation is an important environmental indicator, the zoo has also built up a comprehensive collection of plants from various parts of the world. A brochure has been compiled of the island’s flora, giving the names in Finnish, English and Swedish of 270 garden taxa, as well as many wild and naturalised species. The brochure costs 2.50 €. ARCHIPELAGO soil were imported to help plantings flourish. At that time a school garden was also planted in order to demonstrate to ordinary people food and crop plants already grown, or that might be grown, in Finland. Finnish animals on Korkeasaari (in 2000) Mammals: Lemming, nothern red-backed vole, grey-sided vole, harvest mouse, black rat, arctic fox, brown bear, stoat, weasel, otter, European mink, wolverine, lynx, white-tailed deer, grey seal, wild forest reindeer, fallow deer, elk. Reptiles: Viper Birds: Grey heron, mute swan, whooper swan, greylag goose, lesser white-fronted goose, Eurasian wigeon, teal, eider, black scoter, smew, golden eagle, European honey-buzzard, crane, ruddy turnstone, ruff, redshank, razorbill, Eurasian eagle owl, Tengmalm’s owl, northern hawk owl, Ural owl, great grey owl, snowy owl, Eurasian pygmy owl, Bohemian waxwing. S I T E S O F I N T E R E S T - LET’S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI 47 ARCHIPELAGO History King Johan III of Sweden bestowed Korkeasaari to the townsfolk to use for grazing and fishing in 1569, soon after the city was founded. A spring on the island was used as a source of drinking-water for the city, and for washing laundry. By the end of the 19th century there were many factory workers in Helsinki, and Korkeasaari and Seurasaari became the city’s first national parks. There was a merry-go-round on Korkeasaari, dancing on an outdoor dance floor, and they brewed coffee on braziers by the shore. The wooden house built as a restaurant in 1884 is still being used for this purpose. The zoo was established in the park in 1889. Its purpose was to provide an educational pass-time for the children of poor families and working folk. In those early days Korkeasaari purchased animals, or received them as donations. Many an elk, otter or flying squirrel spotted in Helsinki ended up on Korkeasaari. The zoo’s management has not always considered the animals’ welfare. The cramped, stone-built bear ”prisons”, built in the early 1900’s, are a reminder of the callousness of those times. In 1910 Rolf Palmgren was appointed director of the zoo; he was one of the first proponents of nature conservation in Finland. He improved the living conditions of the animals considerably, and banished some of the most objectionable funfair features of the zoo. Nowadays the zoo, which belongs to the city of Helsinki, makes every effort to ensure that the animals enjoy as natural conditions as possible. Other nearby sites of interest If you walk to Korkeasaari from Kulosaari metro-station, you will pass through Mustikkamaa (‘Blueberryland’), an island devoted to recreation. There is a beach on the south shore, and close to the sportsground is the restaurant of the Helsinki Workers’ Union dating from the 1920’s. Towards the eastern end of Mustikkamaa is a protected bird rock, Norppa, with the largest colony of black-headed gulls in Helsinki. 48 LET’S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI - SITES OF INTEREST Mustasaari is only four kilometres from the centre of Helsinki. It’s especially popular with families with small children. On Mustasaari the children will be amused by the tame animals, adults will appreciate the verdure of the island, and the whole family will enjoy the sea crossing. The pasture meadows are well worth seeing. ARCHIPELAGO MUSTASAARI How to get there There is a regular boat service to the island from Taivallahti jetty, which is at the end of Eteläinen Hesperiankatu Street. The most convenient trams, 3T and 3B, stop off about 600 metres from the jetty. The motor-boat trip takes 15 minutes, and costs 4 € with return. The trip passes by the president’s official residence, Seurasaari, and islets colonised by lesser black-backed gulls. Boat timetable 16.-27. May: from Taivallahti: mon - fri 10am, 11am, 12am, 1.15pm, 2pm, 3pm, and from Mustasaari: Mon-Fri 10.40am, 11.40am, 1pm, 1.40pm, 2.40m, 4pm. Weekends closed. Boat timatable 31.5.-28.8. From Taivallahti Mon closed. Tues, Fri, Sat, Sun 11am, 12am, 1.15pm, 2pm, 3pm, 4pm. Wed, Thu 11am, 12am, 1.15pm, 2pm, 3pm, 4pm, 5pm*, 6pm* From Mustasaari Tue, Fri, Sat, Sun 11.40am, 1pm, 1.40pm, 2.40pm, 3.40pm, 4.40pm, 6pm. Wed, Thu 11.40am, 1pm, 1.40m, 2.40pm, 3.40pm, 4.40pm 5.40pm*/6pm, 7pm*, 8pm*, 9pm* *) These boats only until 11 August. Weeks 33 and 34 no evening boats. The last return from Mustasaari 6pm. Information (09) 612 0040/ Mustasaari office. Dogs are not allowed. A r t o N i r o n e n 49 Kaskisaari Svedjeholmen Mustasaari Svartholmen hti alla ARCHIPELAGO iv Ta L c Kappeli Laidunsaari Grazing island Hevossaari Chapel c 8 N 0 200 m Haapasaari Services In the manor building, built in 1889, is a café famous for its cinnamon rolls (‘korvapuusti’, a traditional Finnish sweetmeat). Surrounding the house are lawns with barbecues, a safe beach for children and a playground. The different kinds of animals vary somewhat from summer to summer, but hens and cocks, rabbits and sheep are established favourites. On Sundays at 12.30pm there is a Finnish-language service in the island’s own chapel. There is also a centre where children’s activities are arranged for short periods. Nature The name Mustasaari, literally ‘Black Island’, could well have originated from the dark forests of the island. The Swedish form of this name has been used at least as far back as 1779. The large grey alders circling the shores and the grand spruce trees do create a awesome atmosphere. Here and there old pine trees stand out from the forest, some of them hoary giants. These almost untouched, leafy forests are complemented by the wellmaintained parks. Various pathways circle the shoreline. The shortest (half a kilometre) is ideal for very young children. A footbridge takes you to Hevossari (‘Horse Island’, 1.1ha/2.7 acres) with a remarkable erratic boulder by the shore and, usually, pastured sheep. Of the many pasture islands kept around Helsinki during the 19th century, Hevossari is one of the very few remaining ones. It represents a national romantic landscape of the kind often depicted in the golden age of Finnish pictorial art at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. 50 LET’S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI - SITES OF INTEREST ARCHIPELAGO Besides the hens and cocks, rabbits and sheep, many of the commoner island birds settle on the island. The best place to see this wildlife is a small bird rock off the northern shore, a nesting site for mute swans. From the main jetty you can also aim your binoculars at a bird island half a kilometre to the north (Morsianluoto), colonised by black-headed gulls, terns and Canada geese. Several kinds of small birds nest in the mixed forests of Mustasaari. As the public don’t have access to the island at night, few people have seen the tawny owl. As well as the squirrels, you may be lucky enough to glimpse a fox or wild mink. The leafy forests grow lushly in several parts of the island. In early spring bulbous corydalis and lesser celandine and, a little later, lily-of-the valley grow in profusion, especially near the southern shore. The shore meadows are botanically rich, and some of the drier rock meadows above, too, carry an interesting flora. Anglers along the shores of Mustasaari will mostly pull in perch, roach and bream. A few fishing rods have traditionally been lent out, at least, to small boys. Ask the staff ; they will also tell you where to find worms for bait. History Mustasaari was a private manor island upto the end of the 19th century. The existing main building was built around the beginning of the 20th century on the site of the then demolished former house. Since 1932 the island has been overseen by the parish. It was here on the island that Finland’s first volley-ball match was played. The present playing ground is not on this historic site. Plants Bulbous corydalis (Corydalis solida), wall speedwell (Veronica arvensis), lesser celandine (Ranunculus ficaria), cliff willowherb (Epilobium collinum), adder’s tongue (Ophioglossum vulgatum), blackcap, goldcrest. S I T E S O F I N T E R E S T - LET’S EXPLORE NATURE IN HELSINKI 51