CASE STUDIES
Pantene Case Study
Brand renovation driven by innovative research
Reference Code: CSCM0328
Publication Date: July 2010
DATAMONITOR VIEW
CATALYST
Pantene relaunched its haircare range globally in June 2010 amid a flattening haircare market and falling market share.
The brand undertook a thorough research project aimed at contextualizing the ‘bad hair day’. Findings from the research
allowed Pantene to gain a better understanding of the perceived importance of healthy hair, as well as help improve the
brand’s creative executions. This case study examines how innovative research techniques can help refresh a brand in a
stagnating category.
SUMMARY
•
Growing value consciousness as a result of recessionary pressures has affected the personal care sector, as
consumers scrupulously trimmed down their beauty budgets. This has particularly been the case in the haircare
and oral hygiene categories, which are perceived more as basic necessities than discretionary purchases.
•
Within the shampoo market, consumers have been trading down to lower priced products that offer the same
quality as well known offerings. Brands such as Suave and TRESemmé have performed particularly well in the
US on this basis, while Pantene’s market share has slipped.
•
In order to gain a better understanding of haircare consumers, Pantene embarked on a study of female shoppers
and their corresponding emotional states when using different shampoo products. The results revealed a range
of seemingly abstract and indirect feelings not normally associated with haircare. Pantene also leveraged new
research tools to measure consumers’ receptiveness to the brand’s television commercials.
•
The research findings culminated in a relaunch of Pantene in June 2010, which involved a reorganization of the
brand’s product line-up as well as fine-tuning the advertising executions. Gaining a thorough understanding of
consumers’ approach to shopping helped reinvigorate a brand that was struggling to gain ground in a saturated
market.
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ANALYSIS
US consumers were some of the hardest hit by the economic downturn, and their spending behavior strongly reflected this.
Within the personal care sector, a combination of both trading-up and trading-down behaviors could be observed. In
cosmetics for example, the now-famous ‘lipstick index’ refers to the propensity for female consumers to purchase more
beauty products such as lipstick or blush during an economic downturn, as an ‘affordable indulgence’ amid a period of
otherwise restrained spending. However, in categories more aligned with personal hygiene than beauty—such as oral and
haircare—consumers exhibited a willingness to trade down to lower-priced alternatives in order to save money.
Such a trend adversely affected Pantene, as newer and seemingly trendier brands came onto the market that purported to
offer ‘salon-quality’ formulations at lower prices than most brands. Rather than undercutting other brands and potentially
devaluing its own, Pantene was tasked with the challenge of refreshing its brand and re-engaging with consumers.
In the US, Proctor & Gamble’s relaunch of Pantene illustrates how an innovative approach to consumer research can tap
into valuable consumer insights and inform a successful brand renovation.
Masstige haircare products have been adversely affected by the economic downturn
The global economic crisis prompted many consumers to re-evaluate their purchases, and the criteria used to make them.
This period witnessed the rise of value-for-money as a primary determinant of consumers’ product choices, in favor of less
pragmatic factors such as brand name and packaging design. Such a trend was particularly evident in the haircare
category, as consumers sought lower-priced alternatives to their favored brands. As a result, overall US sales in shampoo
and conditioner in 2009–10 dropped compared to one year prior, while most other personal care categories experienced an
increase in sales (a selection of product sub-categories is detailed in Table 1 below).
Table 1:
Total mass market sales* in selected beauty care categories in the US
Category
Sub-category
US$ Sales
% Change vs. year previous
2,164,889,000
+1.17%
Facial antiaging
771,588,400
+3.38%
Acne treatments
371,746,900
+0.39%
1,123,726,000
+6.28%
539,477,400
+6.95%
Eyeliner
298,984,600
+11.00%
Eye shadow
210,446,400
-0.06%
2,043,706,000
+7.91%
771,638,200
+6.06%
Skin care
Eye cosmetics
Mascara
Soap
Liquid body wash
Nondeodorant bar soap
517,647,300
+1.07%
1,360,016,000
-1.35%
Regular shampoo
1,081,645,000
-1.70%
Dandruff shampoo
269,717,200
-0.97%
904,879,400
-2.51%
Shampoo
Hair conditioner
* sales through drug stores, supermarkets and discounters except Walmart for year ended March 21, 2010
Source: Chain Drug Review, May 2010
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Value-for-money is a key consideration in consumers’ choice of haircare products
Given that haircare products such as shampoo and conditioner are typically considered more a necessity than a
discretionary purchase, such products are subject to the most scrutiny in terms of value-for-money, compared to other
personal care products such as cosmetics or fragrances. This was a theme that emerged from a Datamonitor consumer
survey conducted in April/May 2009. The fieldwork found that over three-quarters (75%) of US consumers considered
‘obtaining value-for-money’ to be an ‘important’ or ‘very important’ attribute in their choice of haircare products (see Figure
1 below). This proportion was matched only by oral hygiene products, which can also be considered a necessity as
opposed to luxury.
Figure 1:
Value-for-money considerations are more pertinent for the oral hygiene and haircare categories
QUESTION: How important are the following product attributes in your choice of personal care
products? Obtaining value-for-money (US consumers)
80%
Very important
% of respondents
70%
60%
26%
Important
25%
23%
50%
18%
40%
21%
30%
50%
51%
20%
47%
36%
24%
10%
0%
Oral Hygiene
Haircare
Skincare
Fragrance
Source: Datamonitor Consumer Survey, April/May 2009
Cosmetics
DATAMONITOR
The recession-induced ‘trading down’ effect was evident in the haircare category
One of the most significant manifestations of the downturn was the propensity for consumers to trade down their product
choices in order to save money. Within the personal care sector, this was again most evident in haircare as well as oral
hygiene. In fact, Datamonitor’s April/May 2009 consumer survey found that nearly one-fifth (18%) of US consumers
reported buying cheaper shampoo in order to save money, followed by conditioner (14%) and toothpaste (12%).
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Figure 2:
US consumers are most likely to buy cheaper shampoo and conditioner compared with other
personal care products
20%
18%
16%
18%
14%
14%
12%
10%
8%
6%
12%
11%
10%
10%
9%
7%
7%
6%
6%
6%
3%
ts
ou
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To
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4%
2%
0%
po
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% of respondents
QUESTION: Which of the following have you done to save money when buying and/or using health and
beauty products? Bought cheaper products/services (US consumers)
Source: Datamonitor Consumer Survey, April/May 2009
DATAMONITOR
Private label threat in personal care is small but imminent
One of the main beneficiaries of the trading-down trend has been private label offerings, which many consumers turned to
for their lower price points and purportedly comparable quality. While private label is not as prevalent in the personal care
sector compared with food and beverages or household care, US consumers nevertheless exhibited more interest in such
products. The aforementioned April/May 2009 Datamonitor survey found 10% of US consumers had switched to private
label shampoo in order to save money (see Figure 3 below). This small proportion is made significant by the fact that
private label represents an even smaller share of personal care sector in the US (see Table 2 below).
Table 2:
Total private label personal care penetration and spend ($ millions) in the US, 2002–2012
Total personal care spending
Country
2002
2007
2012
CAGR 2002–07
CAGR 2007–12
US
63,664.4
70,666.9
78427.4
2.1%
2.1%
US
2,573.8
22.9%
9.3%
Private label personal care spending
7,227.2
11,289.5
Private label personal care penetration
Country
2002
2007
2012
CAGR 2002–07
CAGR 2007–12
US
6.4%
7.9%
10.1%
4.1%
5.2%
Source: Datamonitor analysis
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Figure 3:
Haircare and oral hygiene products are most vulnerable to private label substitution
QUESTION: Which of the following have you done to save money when buying and/or using health and
beauty products? Switched to private label/store branded products (US consumers)
12%
10%
% of respondents
10%
7%
8%
6%
6%
6%
5%
4%
4%
4%
4%
2%
2%
2%
2%
2%
1%
as
h
on
di
tio
ne
r
D
en
t
al
Bo
flo
dy
ss
sk
in
H
cr
ai
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m
ty
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od
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ts
To
o
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th
pa
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st
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sk
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Na
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ak
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Sp
a
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rv
ice
s
C
M
ou
Sh
th
w
am
po
o
0%
Source: Datamonitor Consumer Survey, April/May 2009
DATAMONITOR
Pantene’s market share slipped during the recession
Pantene is a top-selling drugstore brand in the US
Pantene is one of the world’s best-selling haircare brands, comprising a wide variety of shampoo, conditioner and styling
products, sold in around 100 countries. The brand is one of Proctor & Gamble’s portfolio of billion dollar brands, with
worldwide sales of approximately US$3 billion annually, equivalent to about 10% global market share (according to
adbrands.net).
Lower-priced shampoos have chipped away at Pantene’s market share
Growing value consciousness, particularly in the haircare category, coupled with a proliferation of lower-price offerings, has
seen a decline in Pantene’s market share in the US. Brands such as Unilever-owned Suave Naturals and Alberto-Culver’s
TRESemmé have enjoyed robust growth, despite a struggling US haircare industry overall. In fact, Chain Drug Review
(June 2010) reported that despite overall decline in the haircare market, Suave Naturals grew 2.8% in dollar sales in 2009,
while TRESemmé suffered the smallest decline compared to the other top shampoo brands (see Table 3 below).
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Table 3:
Top brands in regular shampoo in the US, 2009-10
Dollar sales (US$m)
% Change
Unit volume (m)
% Change
39.2
+2.8
27.8
-4.5%
2. Clairol Herbal Essences HII
19.6
-10.3
6.2
-14.5%
3. Pantene Pro-V Color Revival
18.2
-6.3
4.0
-5.6%
4. Pantene Pro-V Moisture
17.9
N/A
3.7
N/A
5. Pantene Pro-V Full & Thick
16.2
-2.9
3.5
+0.3%
1. Suave Naturals
6. Pantene Pro-V Ice Shine
15.6
-8.9
3.3
-10.0%
7. Garnier Fructis Daily Care
15.4
-13.4
4.0
-10.5%
8. TRESemmé
15.4
-0.6
4.1
-6.7%
9. Pantene Pro-V Classic Care
15.3
N/A
3.1
N/A
10. Clairol Herbal Essences Bdy
14.0
-15.6
4.0
-18.5%
All Private Label
24.2
-12.1
5.9
-14.8%
Source: Chain Drug Review, June 2010
DATAMONITOR
The Suave and TRESemmé brands have found appeal among consumers for their premium quality positioning at lower
price points than rivals. Indeed, both brands aim to convey a high-quality positioning by touting ‘professional’ credentials
(see Figure 4 below).
Figure 4:
Lower-priced rivals Suave and TRESemmé tout salon-quality products at affordable prices
Source: suave.com; tresemme.com
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Pantene undertook thorough product and consumer analysis in order to win back
customers
In order to combat strong competition from lower-priced lines, Pantene needed to reclaim value-conscious consumers but
without devaluing the brand by merely undercutting rivals. Understanding the emotional connection between women and
their hair was key to marketing a product that truly resonated with consumers and encouraged them to switch to (or back
to) Pantene.
Datamonitor’s consumer survey conducted in April/May 2009 elucidated the importance that women attach to their hair.
The research found that over eight-in-10 (84%) female consumers in the US considered ‘taking care of your hair’ to be an
‘important’ or ‘very important’ health and beauty issue (see Figure 5 below). While fundamental matters of personal and
oral hygiene were deemed more important, caring for one’s hair was considered even more significant than caring for skin,
feet and using fragrances.
Figure 5:
The vast majority of female consumers place a high degree of importance on taking care of their
hair
QUESTION: How important are the following health and beauty issues to you personally? (Female consumers - US)
100%
Very important
90%
Important
% of respondents
80%
70%
46%
40%
30%
30%
60%
25%
50%
17%
40%
30%
20%
46%
49%
Maintaining good
personal hygiene
Taking care of
your oral health
54%
51%
51%
37%
10%
0%
Taking care of
your hair
Source: Datamonitor Consumer Survey, April/May 2009
Taking care of
your skin
Taking good care Using fragrances
of your feet
to smell nice
DATAMONITOR
Despite evident brand-switching and apparent fickleness within the haircare category, the issue of hair remained as
important as ever for female consumers. Understanding the intricacies of this reality was a vital step in communicating the
added-value offered by Pantene.
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A comprehensive consumer research effort sought to demystify the ‘bad hair day’
In spring 2009, Proctor & Gamble embarked on a rigorous research project to illuminate women’s feelings about their hair.
This necessitated delving beyond specific benefits such as smoothness or volume, and into consumers’ deeper feelings
about their hair. In order to accomplish this, the researchers administered the ‘Positive Affect Negative Affect Schedule’—a
questionnaire typically employed by psychology researchers to measure mood.
Initially, almost 3,400 women were surveyed about how intensely they felt 20 specific emotions in relation to their hair,
ranging from ‘enthusiastic’, ‘determined’ and ‘inspired’, to ‘hostile’, ‘ashamed’ and ‘irritable’. Subsequently, about 1,300
women went on to use Pantene hair products for one week and then completed the questionnaire a second time. About
900 of these women used new Pantene formulas and packaging, and about 400 used an older version of Pantene.
Comparing the new-Pantene and old-Pantene groups, researchers found a “statistically significant difference” in the
positive emotion scores between the new versus old product users. New-Pantene users returned particularly high scores to
four emotions—‘excited’, ‘proud’, ‘interested’ and ‘attentive’. Furthermore, the findings even identified variations within the
group. For example, women using products for fine hair reported feeling less ‘hostile’, ‘ashamed’ and ‘nervous’, while users
of products for color-treated hair reported feeling less ‘guilty’ and ‘jittery’. Such abstract and seemingly extraneous feelings
proved particularly valuable for the researchers:
“Jittery might not be the first emotion that comes to mind… It’s the non-direct link that we’re interested in.”
Marianna LaFrance, Yale University professor of psychology who analyzed the P&G test data, quoted in the Wall
Street Journal, June 2010
Similarly, respondents who reported feeling ‘attentive’ generated considerable interest in terms of their resultant behavior:
“If people are having a good hair day, do they focus more on what they’re doing?... It raised a lot of interesting questions
we need to consider on the power of a good hair day.”
Jeni Thomas, senior scientist at Proctor & Gamble, quoted in the Wall Street Journal, June 2010
Proctor & Gamble reorganized the Pantene range to cut through the ‘wall of white’
Pantene’s growing array of successful hair products in distinctive white bottles had eventually become a liability more than
a brand advantage. Indeed, P&G insiders reportedly called their brand’s section of the shampoo aisle “the wall of white”,
referring to the broad range of Pantene offerings.
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“It was a tough shopping experience… We learned that the brand had become too complex.”
Craig Bahner, P&G’s vice president of North American haircare, quoted in the Wall Street Journal, June 2010
Such a sentiment is not merely confined to haircare products, but also the entire grocery shopping experience, as
illustrated by Datamonitor’s August 2008 Consumer Survey. Findings revealed that over half (52%) of global consumers
agreed (i.e. ‘tend to agree’ or ‘strongly agree’) that ‘there is too much choice when doing grocery shopping’ (see Figure 6
below). The tendency for respondents from more developed markets to return below-average agreement with the
statement can be attributed to the more mature retail environments in these markets, in which consumers are used to and
perhaps desensitized to an abundance of choice when shopping. Still, over one-third (34%) of US consumers still believe
there is too much choice when grocery shopping.
Figure 6:
The majority of global consumers believe there is to much choice when grocery shopping
QUESTION: To what extent do you agree or disagree with the following statements?
There is too much choice when doing grocery shopping
60%
% of respondents
50%
Tend to agree
Strongly agree
40%
33%
29%
30%
29%
20%
10%
25%
24%
9%
10%
UK
US
22%
13%
19%
7%
19%
0%
Australia
France
Germany
Source: Datamonitor Consumer Survey, August 2008
Global
DATAMONITOR
Looking at the personal care sector more specifically, it is clear that ‘choice paralysis’ has stifled consumer willingness to
try new products, and instead has driven them to stick with ‘tried and tested’ products. Indeed, the aforementioned August
2008 survey found over half (51%) of US consumers don’t even notice new cosmetics or toiletries products when shopping
– even higher than the global average of 42% (see Figure 7 below). Furthermore, nearly the same proportion of
respondents stated that habit has a ‘high’ or ‘very high’ amount of influence on their choice of personal care or beauty
products, suggesting that consumers are increasingly overlooking new products in favor of those they know and trust.
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Figure 7:
As product choice proliferates, consumers are less willing to shop around for new offerings
QUESTION 1: Which of the following statements best describes your approach to new products
when shopping for… Cosmetics and toiletries? I don’t seem to notice new products
QUESTION 2: Please tell us how much influence the following factors have in your choice of
personal care or beauty products: Habit or preferred brand
(Q1) I don’t seem to notice new products
60%
56%
56%
(Q2) High or very high amount of influence
56%
51%
% of respondents
50%
44%
47%
43%
43%
45%
50%
45%
42%
40%
30%
20%
10%
0%
Australia
France
Germany
Source: Datamonitor Consumer Survey, August 2008
UK
US
Global
DATAMONITOR
Recognizing that Pantene’s line-up of 165 individual items had most likely become confusing for shoppers (both Pantene
customers and haircare consumers in general), Proctor & Gamble simplified the Pantene product line as part of its June
2010 relaunch. The new formulas were grouped into four main categories—curly, fine, medium/thick and color-treated,
while the packages were accented with bright colors in order to distinguish between them (see Figure 8 below). In all, the
company pared the Pantene line down to 120 items.
Figure 8:
Pantene streamlined its product range in order to simplify consumers’ shopping experience
Source: pos-standards.de; pantene.com
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Consumer research findings helped inform the brand’s new advertising campaign
In keeping with the brand’s scientific approach to consumer analysis, P&G tested its television advertisements on
consumers by tracking their brainwave activity as they viewed the commercials. Test subjects were fitted with caps that
measured their brainwaves, and an electroencephalogram test determined whether or not the advertisements were tapping
into viewers’ emotions, whether they would remember the advertisements, and whether they were paying attention to what
they were watching.
Such findings have subsequently helped guide changes in Pantene’s commercials, which began airing in May 2010. For
example in one advertisement, brainwave analysis determined that viewers were distracted by a model who looked
frustrated by her unruly hair. Rather than focusing on the rest of the ad content, viewers were preoccupied with why the
model was upset, drawing focus away from the actual product. Consequently, P&G re-edited the spot to focus less on the
model’s expression and more on her hair.
A renewed focus on the consumer has helped Pantene reinvigorate three aspects of its business: consumer insight,
product line-up and communication strategy. Such an approach offered the brand three possible routes to differentiation,
and avoids a disproportionate level of attention being directed towards price alone.
Compare and contrast: TRESemmé
Pantene’s research endeavor no doubt refreshed the brand and clarified consumer need states in ways that were
previously unknown. However, a question remains as to whether the undertaking will be effective in attracting new users, or
whether it is simply a brand update to win back core consumers. TRESemmé for example, is positioned as affordable
professional haircare targeted at the twenty something, savvy, fashionable consumer. Such a message is conveyed
through product integrations on shows such as ‘Project Runway’ and strategic sponsorships at relevant events such as
Fashion Week (see Figure 9 below).
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Figure 9:
TRESemmé has made effective use of branded entertainment which not only reaches its target
audience but is also strongly aligned with the brand’s overall positioning
Tresemmé was headline sponsor for US
reality show ‘Project Runway’
Tresemmé sponsored stylists at the William Rast Fall 2009 fashion
show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York, February 2009
Source: brickfish.com; nytimes.com
DATAMONITOR
Utilizing channels that resonate with its audience has made TRESemmé one of the best-performing haircare brands in
recent years, and allows the brand to remain fresh and current. The Pantene relaunch however, fails to tap into the
nuances of this lucrative generation of consumers, instead opting to reintroduce a brand to the mass market, with the risk
that young consumers may merely dismiss it as old and outdated.
At a time when personalization, relevance and brand engagement is at an all-time high, Pantene’s blanket approach to
reintroducing a product may fall short of resonating with increasingly discriminating consumers.
Conclusion and implications
Pantene’s relaunch into the US market bares some important lessons:
•
Price is only one of many components comprising the value construct – the rising wave of value
consciousness that emerged as a result of the economic downturn involved more than just the pursuit of lower
prices. Brands such as Suave and TRESemmé performed well during this period as they offered consumers
‘professional quality’ products at lower prices than other well known brands. Indeed, it is this combination of
perceived quality at lower price points that has driven the success of private label products around the world.
Understanding that reducing prices without simultaneously communicating quality undermines the value of a
brand and will fail to appeal to value-conscious consumers.
•
‘Choice paralysis’ can exist both between and within brands – Pantene recognized that consumers were
already overwhelmed by product choice in the saturated haircare market, and that its proliferating product line
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was only facilitating this confusion. Reorganizing a product range can create clarity for consumers, and help
simplify the decision making process. Such a change is all the more valuable as it forces a company to
reevaluate its brand proposition, and assess where they want to take their brand in the long-term.
•
Innovative approaches to research can draw out unique consumer insights – rather than asking
consumers exactly what they looked for in a shampoo product, Pantene instead investigated consumers’
inherent emotional states before and after using the product. An understanding of this has led to an appreciation
of the often subconscious elements at play when shopping, such as attention levels and innate feelings of guilt.
Given that consumers may not always be cognizant of the factors that drive their purchases, gaining an
understanding of the subliminal factors involved can offer new and innovative ways with which to communicate
(and resonate) with consumers.
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APPENDIX
Case study series
This report forms part of Datamonitor's case studies series, which explores business practices across a variety of
disciplines and business sectors. The series covers a range of markets including food and drink, retail, banking and
insurance, pharmaceuticals and software.
Each case study provides a concise evaluation of a company that stands out in some area of its strategic operations,
highlighting the ways in which the company has become one of the best in its field or how it deals with different problems
encountered within that sector.
Methodology
This case study draws upon a mix of primary and secondary research, including Datamonitor's Market Data Analytics
(MDA) database and the Product Launch Analytics (PLA) database, alongside an extensive review of secondary literature
and other in-house sources of information. Data has also been selectively extracted from the findings of the consumer
fieldwork conducted for the purpose of Datamonitor’s New Consumer Insight (NCI) research.
Secondary sources
•
Alberto Culver Co. at Goldman Sachs Consumer Products Symposium, CQ FD Disclosure, 13 May 2010
•
Beauty care sales by category, Chain Drug Review, 24 May 2010
•
Hair styling/setting gel/mousse: top brands, Chain Drug Review, 7 June 2010
•
Inside
Proctor
&
Gamble’s
Pantene
Restage,
Gerson
Lehrman
Group,
16
March
2010
http://www.glgroup.com/News/Inside-Procter--Gambles-Pantene-Restage-47136.html
•
Pantene Gets to the Root of the Problem, Marketing Profs, 17 June 2010 http://www.mpdailyfix.com/pantenegets-to-the-root-of-the-problem/
•
Proctor & Gamble Tries to Figure Out Bad Hair Days, The Wall Street Journal, 30 June 2010
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748704911704575327141935381092.html
•
Proctor
&
Gamble’s
Root-to-End
Pantene
Makeover,
Bloomberg
Businessweek,
30
May
2010
http://www.businessweek.com/magazine/content/10_22/b4180023428465.htm
•
Push is on for innovative products to reinvigorate sales, Chain Drug Review, 15 March 2010
•
P&G Overhauls Pantene Inside and Out, Women’s Wear Daily, 12 March 2010
•
Regular shampoo: top brands, Chain Drug Review, 7 June 2010
Pantene Case Study
© Datamonitor. This brief is a licensed product and is not to be photocopied
CSCM0328/Published 07/2010
Page 14
Pantene Case Study
•
Style and substance: today’s styling products are designed to achieve and maintain the perfect coil, with plenty
of good-for-the-hair ingredients, Household & Personal Products Industry, 1 May 2010
•
The
Bad
Hair
Day
Scientifically
Researched:
Why
Beautiful
Hair
Matters,
Pantene
website
http://www.pantene.com/en-us/hair-science/Pages/beautiful-hair.aspx
Further reading
•
Datamonitor (2009) Successes and Failures in Consumer Goods Innovation and NPD, December 2009,
BFCM0361
•
Datamonitor (2009) Profiting from Consumer Mega-Trends in Asia Pacific: Convenience, December 2009,
DMCM4709
•
Datamonitor (2009) Profiting from Consumer Mega-Trends in Asia Pacific: Health, November 2009, DMCM4705
•
Datamonitor (2009) Food Nutrients and Ingredients: Attitudinal and Behavioral Trends in Asia Pacific, December
2009, DMCM4714
Ask the analyst
The Consumer Knowledge Center Writing team
askcm@datamonitor.com
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Pantene Case Study
© Datamonitor. This brief is a licensed product and is not to be photocopied
CSCM0328/Published 07/2010
Page 15