TEXTILES REVISION
Fabric construction:
Weaving/
Knitting
Fibre
Yarn
Fabric
Spinning
NATURAL FIBRES:
Animal:
Plant:
wool, silk, alpaca, angora, cashmere etc.
cotton, linen, jute, hemp
SYNTHETIC FIBRES:
elastomeric, acrylic, PVC, polyester, nylon, Tactel
REGENERATED FIBRES: viscose, lyocell, acetate, cupro, modal, tencel
Spinning:
Worsted – smooth
Woollen – hairy
WOVEN FABRICS:
interlocking threads or yarns
WEFT: run horizontally
WARP: run vertically
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They…
fray easily when cut
strongest along the grain
lack elasticity
stronger and firmer the closer the weave is
KNITTED FABRICS:
Made from YARN in a series of INTERLOCKING LOOPS
They are ELASTIC, WARM (trap air) and can be NAPPED or BRUSHED, making
them FLUFFY
WEAVING
PLAIN WEAVE:
TWILL WEAVE:
Construction - Over
one, under one
Selvedge – doesn’t
fray
Bias – diagonally
across the weave so
that fabric stretches
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Lots of variations possible
Strong
Hard wearing
Used for fashion and furnishing
fabrics
Construction – over
2, under 2 (weft
moves over 1 warp
thread each time)
Pattern – forms a
diagonal pattern
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SATIN WEAVE:
Strong
Drapes well
Used on jeans, uniforms and jackets
BASKET WEAVE:
Construction – warp:
over 1, under 3.
Weft: over 3, under 1
Weft thread – lies on
the surface
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Construction – over
2, under 2
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WEAKEST of all weaves
Shiny
‘snags’ easily
Used to produce polyester satin
Strong warp-wise
Drapes well
Traditionally used to make baskets
Can be used for textiles
Patterns can be made
KNITTING
WEFT KNITTED:
WARP KNITTED:
Construction –
horizontal rows
Interlocking loops
Ladders
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Made by hand or machine
Stretch and comfortable
Used for socks, jumpers and T-shirts
Construction –
vertical columns
Interlocking loops
Doesn’t ladder
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Made by machine only
Less elastic + firmer
Used for swimwear, underwear and
geotextiles
NON-WOVEN FABRICS
WOOL FELTS
NEEDLE FELTS
Construction –
Fibres are matted
together
Made from animal
hair or wool
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Construction –
Fibres are tangled
and interlocked
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Fibre web is squashed together with
moisture, a machine and heat
The fibres become tangled
Used for hats, jackets, slippers
BONDED FABRICS
Fibres are passed through lots of
barbed needles, dragging the fibres up
and down, forwards and backwards,
tangling the fibres
LAMINATED FABRICS
Construction –
Fibres are bonded
together using
adhesive, solvent of
lines of stitching
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Used for disposable fabrics such as
cleaning cloths, medical masks, table
linen
Used for interfacing and stiffening
Construction –
fabrics are bonded
together for extra
properties
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GORETEX and SYMPATEX
Fabrics can be made waterproof and
breathable
NON-WOVEN FABRICS:
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Made from RAW fibres using:
CHEMICALS – to mat the fibres together
 HEAT – to bond the fibres together
 STITCHING
 – the fibres together in layers
They do not have a GRAIN, don’t STRETCH or FRAY easily, not as STRONG as
knitted or woven and are PERMEABLE
They can be MOULDED, made from RECYCLED FIBRES, CHEAP, weaker when
WET, easily PILL
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Materials that can RESPOND TO EXTERNAL STIMULI or ACTYIVATED BY
INTERNAL OR EXTERNAL POWER SOURCES
GORE-TEX
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Laminated membrane
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Breathable
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Lightweight
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Waterproof
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Used on jackets and
shoes
ELECTRO TEXTILES:
MEMORY TEXTILES:
Textiles can be combined with
electronics to create products
with soft keyboards to provide
additional functions
Wearable textiles
Soft, washable fabric with
optical and electrical fibres in it
COULD be used for shirts for
parental use on babies and for
military use
Shape memory polymer
Temperature-sensitive foam used to
mould to match the body pressuring
against it
Useful for the elderly and disabled
COULD be used for medicine and
keyhole surgery
MICRO-ENCAPSULATED
Scents and smells are released
SLOWLY
Children’s toys
Moisturised tights
BODY ENHANCING FABRICS
Create a sense of well-being
Medicine plasters with painkillers
Anti-stress or clam inducing properties
THERMOCHROMATIC FABRICS
Dyes that change colour in response to temperature
Used for novelty products and medical uses
(wound dressings to indicate infection)
UV-REACTIVE FABRIC
Dyes used respond to light/ sunlight –
can produce interesting patterns
Used for novelty products, to measure
sun exposure or military clothing which
adjusts according to the environment
PHOSPHORESCENT
FABRIC
Transform invisible forms of
energy into visible light
Dyes can be IMPREGNATED
with phosphorescence which
traps and stores energy from a
light source and makes it ‘glow
in the dark’
Dye can be a surface coating,
printed on as a pattern or woven
or spun
Used for children’s novelty
clothing, clubbing wear and
high visibility safety garments
PHASE-CHANGING FABRIC
Outlast® uses wax in tiny micro-capsules which can be applied
as a finish or incorporated into the fabric
Wax changes from solid to liquid in warm temp, absorbing the
body’s heat and keeping it cool. If the temp falls, the wax will
solidify and give heat back to the body
Energy is ABSORBED and RELEASED from the wax
Used for active sport wear , walking wear and survival wear
BIO-MIMETIC FABRICS
Stomatex© mimics nature
It is the science of understanding how nature can respond
automatically to changes
Only the top layer reacts to change and it is made of 3 layers
Neoprene = core layer, knitted nylon fabrics on either side.
The stomatex has domes in the surface of the fabric which
have tiny holes that allow moisture and heat to move away
from the body
Used for diving suits, active sportswear and protective wear
Combining fabrics and fibres
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Interfacing
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Quilted
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Gore-Tex
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Kevlar
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Thinsulate
fabric (such as Vilene) – can be stitched or laminated to
other fabrics. This reinforces, stiffens and gives strength to collars and
cuffs to prevent the fabric from stretching or sagging.
fabric - two or more layers sewn together to give an attractive
appearance and added warmth.
– can be laminated to another fabric using adhesive or heat.
Gore-Tex is used for all-weather clothing and shoes because it is breathable
and waterproof.
– a high-strength, lightweight and flexible fibre. It is used in bicycle
tyres, racing sails and police bullet-proof vests because of its high strengthto-weight ratio.
– a highly insulating but thin fabric. The microfibres in
Thinsulate are fine and capture more air in less space, making it a better
insulator. It traps air between the wearer and the outside. It can be machine
washed and dry cleaned, and is breathable as well as moisture resistant.
Scuba divers wear a Thinsulate suit under a dry suit when diving in cold
water.
There are two ways of mixing fibres:
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Blending
–when fibres are mixed together at the spinning or spinneret
stage, meaning that different fibres are DISTRIBUTED throughout the fabric
Includes: polyester and cotton
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Mixing
– two different yarns are used during the weaving process, one for
the warp, one for the weft
Includes: nylon and wool and acrylic and wool
ADVANTAGES:
- Improves fabric performance
- Reduces costs
- Different textures can be achieved
- Interesting colour effects can be achieved due to
different absorbencies
NATURAL FIBRES
LINEN
A cellulose fibre BUT
Stiffer, stronger and firmer than cotton
Properties:
 Very absorbent – suitable for towels
 Dyes well
 Strong when wet, easier to launder
 Dries quicker than cotton
 Smooth fibres=smooth fabric
 Cool to wear
 Shinier than cotton
Disadvantages:
 Creases easily – needs frequent ironing
 Stiffer than cotton – less supple
 More expensive than cotton
COTTON
Made from CELLULOSE
Properties:
 Strong when wet
 Centre is hollow, moisture can be absorbed easily
– can hold 65% its own weight without dripping
 Dyes easily
 Easy to launder, washed at high temps
 Cool to wear – fibres are smooth and do not trap
heat
Disadvantages:
 Creases easily – needs frequent ironing
 Takes a long time to dry
 Stains are absorbed
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WOOL
Any type of animal hair
(sheep, lama, alpaca, angora rabbits and goats)
Properties:
 It has a natural ‘crimp’ – makes it elastic and
crease resistant
 Warmest natural fibre – overlapping scales
trap air
 Heat and moisture can mould the fibres
 Can absorb 30% of its mass in water without
feeling wet (hollow centre)
 Water repellent – natural oil in the fibres
Disadvantage:
 Hairy surface – can irritate the skin
 Shrinks when washed harshly – overlapping
scales become tangled
SILK
The only NATURAL
FILAMENT FIBRE
Properties:
 Very smooth
 Cool next to the skin but warm too
 Holds 30% of its moisture before
feeling damp
 Dyes well – absorbed into centre
 Little twisting is needed, making fabric
soft and shiny
 Does not crease easily
 Strongest natural fibre
Disadvantages:
 Expensive to produce and buy
 Needs to be laundered carefully
SYNTHETIC FIBRES
NYLON
Properties:
 Strong and elastic
 Easy to launder
 Dries quickly
 Keeps its shape
 It is resilient
 Thermoplastic – reshaped (permanent
pleats)
 Smooth fibres – shiny fabric
Disadvantages:
 Collects static electricity
 Damaged by high temperatures
 Feels cold to touch
 Does not absorb body moisture
Uses:
 Shorts swimwear, bedspreads and
draperies. (basically clothes)
ACRYLIC
Made to resemble wool. Fibres are
CRIMPED or spun to trap air
Properties:
 Soft and warm
 Thermoplastic
 Dries quickly
 Lightweight
 Dyes well
 Crease resistant
Disadvantages:
 Easily damaged by heat
 Collects static electricity
 Not as warm as wool
 Not as absorbent as wool
Uses:
 Knitwear, blankets, fake fur for
toys etc.
POLYESTER
Properties:
 Resists wrinkling
 Strong and hardwearing
 Easy to launder
 Dries quickly
 Resistant to stretching and shrinking
 Thermoplastic – can be reshaped
Disadvantages:
 Can be damaged by heat
 Feels cold to the touch
 Does not absorb moisture
Uses:
 Clothing
 Sports clothing
 Curtains and draperies
POLAR FLEECE
Advantages:
 Soft and comfortable to wear
 Warm but light weight
 Hydrophobic and breathable
 Environmentally friendly – made from
recycled plastic bottles
 Machine and dries quickly
 Alternative to those allergic to wool
 Dries very quickly
 Warm even when wet
Disadvantages:
 Flammable so needs to be treated
 Non-renewable resource (oil)
 Doesn’t absorb water as well as natural
 Generates static
 Not windproof
 Can be damaged by high temp washing
MICROFIBRES
Polyester or nylon microfibres are 60 to 100 times finer than a human hair. They can be blended with
SYNTHETIC or NATURAL fibres and are used for clothing for outdoor pursuits and active
sportswear.
Thermoplastic polyester or nylon microfibres can be heat-treated to give them coils, crimps and loops,
which makes these textured yarns stretchy and warm. They are used for underwear, sportswear,
knitwear and carpets.
SMART MATERIAL
MATERIAL THAT CAN RESPOND TO EITHER EXTERNAL STIMULI OR
ACTIVATED BY INTERNAL OR EXTERNAL POWER SOURCES.
They can be incorporated by embroidering them or priming them on.
NANO-FIBRES
Tiny molecules, one billionth of a metre in length. If you add these molecules to fibres you
can improve them on a molecular level. They can be used so that the fabric will repel water,
wont stain or won’t creaser when washed.
TECHNICAL TEXTILES
TEXTILES WHICH ARE MANUFACTURED FOR FUNCTIONALITY AND
TECHNICAL PERFORMANCE. THE VISUAL APPEARANCE IS LESS
IMPORTANT.
They are used in industries such as: Aerospace
Medicine
Military
Health and Safety
Transport
GeoTextiles
FIT FOR PURPOSE?
Fibre content: should you use natural or synthetic fibres?
 Fabric construction: should you use woven, knitted or non-woven?
 Manufacturing processes: should you use dyeing, printing, mechanical
finishing or chemical finishing?
 End use of the fabric: what are you making, e.g. jeans, sportswear or a
seatbelt?
 Maintenance: what are the aftercare requirements of the product?
The fibre content, fabric construction and finishing processes determine the
fabric's aesthetic, functional and comfort properties.
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LABELLING:
They are controlled by legislation to contain:
Fibre content (in descending order)
Chemical names of materials used
Standard number(s) – to show which standards it meets
Country of origin
Product details – type, size, style etc.
Safety advice – keep away from fire etc.
care instructions
Other things can be:
retailers logo
retailers store and product number for tracking
a barcode
Ethical information – organic etc.
How it protects you
Example
Trade Descriptions Act
Statements about the product must be true
A 'waterproof' product must not let in the rain
Sale of Goods Act
The product must be of satisfactory quality
The product must perform as expected, e.g. it
should not fall apart after being worn only once
Consumer Safety Act
Nightwear Safety Regulations protect
children aged between three months and 13
years from fire hazards
Children's nightwear, including threads and
decoration, must carry a permanent label to show
that they meet the flammability standard
The Weight and
Measures Act
It is illegal to sell products that weigh less
than the amount on the label
The Textiles Products
(Indication of Fibre
content) Regulation
It is a legal requirement to state the fibre
content of a fabric on a label, in descending
order using chemical names
Dying
Hand dyeing
Commercial dyeing
In hand dyeing, fabrics are immersed in
Continuous dyeing
hot or cold dyes in a dye bath. The dye
The fabric is passed through a dye bath,
bath is agitated so the dye reaches all areas.
and then squeezed between rollers to spread
When the desired colour is achieved the
the dye evenly and remove excess.
fabric is removed and rinsed to remove
Continuous dyeing is used for colours that
excess dye. Then it is fixed with a mordant
do not need to change too quickly with
or a fixing agent such as salt. The strength
fashion.
of a dye colour is determined by the:
Batch dyeing
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amount of time in the dye bath
Fabrics are produced without dye. Instead,
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absorbency of fibres
they are dyed to order in large batches
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original fabric colour
according to the colours required. Batch
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concentration of the dye colour in the
dyeing is used for fabrics that have to
dye bath
change in colour frequently because of
effective use of a mordant or fixative
fashion.
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Rotary screen printing
Uses CAD and roller squeegees. One roller is
Screen printing
used for each colour. This is a very fast
A pattern is printed onto fabric through a
process used in the continuous printing of
stencil held in place by a screen. Each screen
furnishing and clothing fabrics.
prints one part of the design in one colour. After
printing the dyestuff must be fixed using steam
or dry heat.
Industrial flat-bed printing
Industrial flat-bed printing automates the
screen printing process, with the fabric moved
through the machine on a conveyor belt and
the print repeating rapidly.
Block printing
Block printing is done using metal or
wooden blocks, one for each colour. The
background shapes are cut away to leave a
raised design on the block (cut in relief).
Dye is applied and stamped onto the fabric.
This is a slow process used by specialised
craft industries.
Decoration and enhancement
Appliqué:
Resist dyeing:
Fabric shapes are sewn onto a
background fabric using a fine
zigzag or straight stitch.
Interface is often used and this
method can be used to create
This stops the dye penetrating certain areas of the fabric to
produce a pattern. Two main methods:
1. Tide dye – a traditional technique and strong or elastic
is used as the ‘resists’. It is done on natural fabrics and
creates interesting effects
SIMPLE or ELABORATE
Stage
Preparation of
fabric
designs. Molar (reverse appliqué)
involves fabric appliquéd on
underneath the background
fabric. This method of
decoration adds COLOUR and
TEXTURE. It is safe to use on
children’s items and is useful to
hide tears or damaged clothing.
Skill care and practice are
required and I can be time
consuming
Patchwork:
Small sections of different
fabrics are sewn together to
form a design – often
geometrical. It is a good way of
recycling but is time consuming.
Preparation of
Dye
Applying
Finishing
Place in dye
Remove from dye.
Rinse out excess dye.
Dry
Take off string
Press with iron
2. Batik – fabric blocks, brushes or tjanting tools are used.
It is a traditional technique used on natural fabrics and
the wax prevents the dye reaching the fabric. unique
and original designs can be produced, but it can be time
consuming and the wax is very hot
Stage
Preparation of fabric
Quilting:
Preparation of Dye
Applying
Texture and warmth is created
by sewing through layers of
fabric and wadding in
geometrical patterns. This can
be time consuming but it can be
difficult to handle a lot of
fabric and wadding. This
technique can also be combined
with patchwork.
Special effects
Finishing
Beading:
Sequins or beads can add colour
and texture. If done by hand, it
is slow to do. Shisha mirrorworksmall mirrors are sewn on, held
with a special embroidery stitch,
it is slow and intricate. It is a
traditional Indian technique.
Process
Wash any finish out of cotton fabric so that dye
can penetrate the fabric.
Fold or scrunch up fabric.
Tie with string/elastic bands
Mix up dye with salt and fix.
Process
Wash any finish out of cotton fabric so that
dye can penetrate the fabric.
Mix up dye with salt and fix.
Apply wax onto design where you want to
keep the colour.
Apply dye to fabric by painting or dipping.
When dye is dry apply the next layer of wax
onto next colour.
Repeat stages to build up pattern.
Scrunch up fabric and crack the wax. Apply
dye to the cracks.
Or
Scratch away wax and apply dye.
Melt wax off the fabric by placing fabric
between wallpaper and ironing.
Embroidery:
Can be done by hand, machine or CAD/CAM. Hand – slow
but it can be very detailed and uses a variety of threads and
stitches. Machine – quite quick to do and uses preset
stitches. CAD/CAM – designs can be built into the memory or
designed. It is repeatable, good quality and quick. The
machine is expensive.
COMPONENTS:
Component
Covered Buttons
Stud fastenings
Eyelets
Ribbon
Lace
Braid (tassley bits)
Buckles
Zips
Iron on/sew on
motifs
Dyes
Thread
Bindings
Interfacing
Uses
Advantages
Cushions
Curtains
Bed linen
Jackets
Waistbands
Bag fastenings
Often used where lacing
is used e.g. Shoes
Draw string bags
Fastening on aprons
Decoratively on clothes
and bags
As a decorative feature
at the top of vest
tops/dresses
Can provide an interesting contrast
or blend in with background
Lampshades
Curtains
Upholstery
Belts
Shoes
Bags
Dress
Jeans
Bags
Caps
School uniforms
Various colours available
Make a product stand out
Use to colour yarns or
fabrics
Natural fibres – reactive dyes or
acid dyes
Synthetic fibres – disperse dyes
Different threads can be chosen
according to the fabric and end
use of the product
Can be used for hand embroidery
Available in different colours
Can be used in a decorative and/or
functional way
Fusible and applied by heat
Threads are used to put
a product together.
‘narrow fabrics’ and
cover a seam
Used to reinforce or
add stability to fabrics
Quick and easy to use
Firm when closed, roomy when open
Hard to break/destroy (prolong life
of garment/product)
Range of colours
Decorative
Strong when knotted
Decorative
Feminine
Strong
Decorative
Available in a variety of sizes/styles
Can be concealed
Strong when done up
Stay in position
Easy to apply
Individualize products
Component
Conductive
thread
Conductive
Velcro
Sewable LED
Colour-changeable
RGB LED’s
Light emitting
fabrics
E-fibres
Textiles switches
Bio-monitoring
Uses
Advantages
Looks and behaves like normal
thread, but it is very
conductive
Ideal to use as a switch in
electronic textiles products
It does not fray
No loose ends of filaments
except where it has been cut
Easily cut to size
It can be combined with
conductive thread, it will
complete the circuit
Used to attach up to 15 LED’s
using conductive thread
Build in a flashing or fading
circuit and the use of buttons
to support and place LED’s
Light element fibres are
woven into fabrics and emit
light
Thin-film electronics
Fabric based switches can be
integrated into clothing to
give it a different purpose
They monitor and report
details about a soldiers health
and condition
They do not need a circuit
They can be put in parallel
and connected to a battery
and they will work
Light is “subtle and
mysterious”
Can be integrated through
weaving
It can be washed
You can track how well the
soldier is coping and when he
needs help
Product analysis
Involves: disassembly
This helps to develop a new product or improve an existing one
Analyse
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Assess
You have to…
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Identify
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the function
The type
Design features
Construction methods
Fibre type/content
Any specialised fabrics used
If it was made with environmental issues in mind
The ergonomics of the product
The size (using standard ANTHROPOMETRIC measurements)
The number of components, parts or pattern pieces
Possible method of manufacture
The cost of the product
If it can be made with fewer components, parts or pieces
Any environmental issues (such as method of applying colour, fibre used,
recycling possibilities and the life cycle of the product)
Colour application method
Method of applying embellishments
Any trimmings used ands where they’re applied
All components used
The care label
Finishes applies and how they affect the product
Any legal of BSI standards relating to the product
Method of fabric construction
Sizes the product is available in
Design specification
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Product specification:
Created from the DESIGN BRIEF after
RESEARCH

Sets out the ESSENTIAL and
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Identifies the materials and equipment
needed to make the product in the
prototype stage
DESIRABLE criteria
Manufacturing specification:
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Made after the product has undergone final
modifications
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Provides material and equipment lists
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Identifies all the tasks that need to be completed,
in sequence, to manufacture the product
In order to evaluate a product, a design specification is needed so you can check:
 If it meets all the criteria in the design specification
 If it is fit for purpose
 If it is suitable for the target market
 If it is safe to use/wear
 If it is well made
Quality assurance: a GUARANTEE of quality
Documents are produced outlining the systems used to ensure quality is maintained
Quality needs to be checked as its being designed, during manufacture and at the
end of manufacture
This ensure products are HIGH QUALITY and FIT FOR PURPOSE
SOCIAL, CULTURAL AND ENVIROMENTAL ISSUES
Societal / cultural / moral factor
Impact
Lifestyle and fashion
Gender images and peer group pressure.
Clothing, accessories and styling of
fashionable celebrities. Brand loyalty.
Development of new street fashions, style and
colour trends. Development of new marketing
strategies.
Trend forecasts
Available as a commercial service aimed at
fashion industry professionals worldwide.
Retail organisations, manufacturers,
designers and consultants frequently
subscribe to keep up to date.
Various professional trend forecast services judge
and identify emerging trends and predict future
trends. Fashion industries can find guidance as to
the lengths, shapes, colours and styles of garments
and accessories to be designed and made.
Globalisation
Availability of cheap labour in the developing
world. New global market for textile
fashions. Increasing awareness of textiles
from other cultures. Consumer reaction
against corporate trends.
Textiles costs are driven down in a global
marketplace for textiles. Growing demand for
traditional and ethnic textiles as well as modern
ones.
Environmental concern
Worries about pollution of rivers and
beaches from textile processes. Growing
support for recycling.
Development of new recycled fabrics (e.g. Polartec,
Tencel). Preference for higher-cost traditional fabrics
(e.g. wool) over synthetic ones. Enforcement of laws
to protect the environment.
Ethical trading
Cheap products being bought and sold means there are continuing poor conditions
for workers in LEDC’s
If the product is ethically produced, then it can be put on the label
Fair-trade mark – guarantees customers that the farmers and workers have been
paid a fair and stable price which covers the cost of sustainable production
Ethical and Fair Trading
 To make cheap clothing/products companies have
to produce their products abroad where wages are
a lot less than in the UK
 Companies should make sure that all areas of
manufacturing and production meet certain
standards and that poor working conditions and
exploitation of workers should not be allowed,
including sweat shops and child labour.
 Fairtrade means that producers get a fair, realistic
price for their product that covers the price of
producing it.
 The production of cotton is very hazardous with the
use of poisonous pesticides used frequently. The
use of these pesticides poisons the cotton
labourers, even killing some of them. Organic
cotton is grown without pesticides so is better for
the environment and the workers.
Packaging
 Textiles companies are trying to reduce the
use of packaging in order to make the
Textiles industry more environmentally
friendly.
 Packaging should be recyclable or
biodegradable (rot away)
Waste from Textiles Processes
 Dyeing produces contaminated water and
poisonous chemicals; it also uses energy to heat
water and power machines.
 To reduce waste the dying industry could use
natural dyes or cold water dyes to reduce
chemicals and energy costs.
 Finishing of fabrics uses a lot of different
chemical in the processes which are a hazard to
the environment.
 Waste from production processes should be
reduced to prevent it going to landfill.
Eco label
 The European Eco label can be used on
products that contain no harmful
substances and cause minimum damage
to the environment.
Recycling
 All textiles products can be recycled by taking
them to a Charity shop or collection bin in
Recycling Centres. These clothes are often
sent for use abroad.
 Some textiles are recycled and reused for
patchwork or rag rugs.
 Plastic bottles are recycled to produce
Polartec Fleece, often used for outdoor
clothing.
 Recycling reduces the need for new materials
and reduces waste going to landfill or
incinerated.
Laundry and Aftercare of Textiles
 Washing textile products has a huge impact on
the environment - use of energy powering the
machines and heating water, detergents going
into the drains and chemicals used in Dry
cleaning.
 Solutions are to wash at lower temperatures,
avoid dry clean only and to use non bio
detergents.
 You should always buy an A rated washing
machine as these are more efficient and save
energy.
Transportation Costs
Products made abroad in countries such as India and China have to be shipped back to the UK
to be sold. The shipping of these products causes pollution and damage to the environment
whether it is by air or sea. Despite the cost of shipping it is still cheaper to produce clothing
abroad than in this country.
Health and Safety at Work Act 1974
Workplace (Health, Safety and Welfare) Regulations, 1992
COSHH – Control of Substances Hazardous to Health regulations 2002
Protects employees from the hazards of substances used in the work place through risk assessment
Sewing
Fusing
Potential hazards:
 Injuries to fingers or hands
whilst cleaning or repairing
 Eye injuries
 Finger injuries from needles
 Injuries from assorted
equipment
Potential hazards:
 Finger and hand injuries in
the press
Safety guidelines:
 Switch machine off when
cleaning or repairing
 Adjust eye guards
 Keep fingers away from
needles
 Put equipment away after
use
Stain removal
Spreading or cutting
Pressing
Potential hazards:
 Injuries to fingers or hands
from spreading or cutting
machines
 Finger or hand injuries from
pressing mechanisms
Potential hazards:
 Scalding from steaming
equipment
 Finger or hand injures from
pressing equipment
Safety guidelines:
 Add safety guards
 Learn the correct way to
handle the equipment
Safety guidelines:
 Check safety guidelines
Potential hazards:
 Breathing in solvent vapours
Safety guidelines:
 Rooms where solvents are
used must be well ventilated
Safety guidelines:
 Only turn on steam function
when ready to use the
steam
 Operators must be well
trained in the use of the
machine before use
General working
area
Potential hazards:
 Tripping or falling
 Electrical injury
 Incorrect handling of
materials
 Incorrect lifting
Safety guidelines:
 Work area to be kept clean
and tidy
 Never use a machine with
damaged covers
 Don’t carry too many things
at once
 Learn the correct way to lift
Dyeing or printing
equipment
Potential hazards:
 Inhalation of dye dust
 Inhalation of dye vapours
 Staining of skin with dyes
Safety guidelines:
 Wear appropriate mask and
eye cover
 Ensure correct ventilation
 Wear protective aprons and
gloves
EQUIPMENT
Colour and design equipment
Batik – pots are heat resistant and used to melt wax. Tjantings are used to
draw on fabrics with hot wax
Screen printing – applies patterns onto fabrics. A screen with a special mesh
is placed over the fabric. A squeegee is used to push the pigment through
the mesh onto the fabric
Fabric crayons and pens – dyes in a solid form, can be used on both synthetic
and natural fabrics. Ironing on the reverse can set the design, allowing it to
be washed safely at 40˚C
Pressing equipment
Irons – used to press garments and to finish them
Heat press – transfers printed designs from specialist paper onto fabrics.
Can also be used to pleat fabrics and create special effects
Sewing machines
Standard – joins fabrics and does simple embroidery. It has limited features
Embroidery machine – has additional features to a standard machine and can
create lots of different decorative features
Computerised – an advanced sewing machine with many features. It is
controlled by a computer interface and can produced digitalised designs
sent from a computer
Overlocker – a specialised sewing machine used for joining and finishing
fabrics. It gives seams a professional finish and can also be used decoratively
Other machines
Knitting machines – used to create fabrics, garments and textile products
that are patterned or textured. They can be linked to a compute to speed
up manufacture
Weaving looms – hand, ground, backstrap and frame looms are used to
produce fabrics. These can also be linked to a computer.
Colour and design equipment
Dressmaker’s mannequins – used to obtain the correct size and fit for a
garment, it can be adjusted to different measurements
Scissors – come in many shapes and sizes, each having a different purpose,
e.g. pattern cutting and pinking
Pinking shears – have serrated edges for finishing off the edges of fabrics to
prevent fraying or to produce decorate edges
Tape measure – used for measuring out patterns or garments. Can be curved
easily, making them ideal for textiles
Embroidery frames – used to hold fabrics in place and can be used for hand
or machine embroidery
Production/manufacturing methods
One-off or job production
Just In Time production
A single textiles product is made to a client’s
specification. It is developed from a basic pattern which is then
altered to meet the client’s needs. A toile is made to test style
and fit, then it is made from the chosen fabric. The product is
made by a small team or individual from start to finish. The
operators are highly skilled and use versatile equipment. This
has a high cost of production
Everything is brought in quickly
and they are shipped out as soon as they are
completed. It increases profit but it is vital
that supplies arrived on time and completed
products leave on time.. it means less space is
required for storage and no money is wasted
on surplus stock. Any mistakes result in a
hold up
Batch production
Set quantities of textile products are made to order. A
prototype is made to test the design before it is produced in
different colours and standard sizes the quantity can vary. It
is more economical and manufacturing costs are low. Usually
for seasonal demands, such as swimwear. Production costs are
considerably less than for individual production. It is flexible
and can be easily changed for new orders. A variety of styles
can be made quite quickly. Flexible working conditions. Staff
can be trained. Lower production costs. However, Equipment
needs to be restarted after a production run. Time is lost
making changes to the production run. Stock needs to be
stored.
Mass production
Industrial scale manufacturing of large quantities of
products, usually on a production line. Suitable for products
that do not need to be redesigned and are required in very large
numbers, e.g. socks, jeans, towels etc. the products are not
complicated and can be made cheaply
Production line
The work flows in a straight line
through work stations. The work moves to the
worker and when it is done, it moves on to
the next worker. This can lead to RSI and it
can be boring. Any problems can result in
the whole line stopping
Cellular work
Small groups work on a range of
skills where they can rotate their work. It
gives workers greater skills flexibility and
team members are responsible for more than
one task. The whole team is responsible for
the whole product. Product changes are easy
to do
Toiles:
A prototype usually made from cheap fabric, such as calico. They are useful as:
They show how the finished product may look
Help to identify modifications to the pattern before production begins
Cost can be estimated based on production methods
The number of pattern pieces can be evaluated and reduced to make it less
expensive
Allows the designer to identify the most efficient methods and procedures
for manufacture
Quality assurance:
A guarantee of quality
Quality control checks are carried out to ensure this
Components are checked on size, appearance, form, colour,
flammability and performance.
Product and manufacturing specifications say when these checks
are carried out
Questions can be used to ensure everything is of appropriate quality
Computer Aided Design
CAD is any designing done using or with the help of a
computer. Before CAD, colour ways, changing size, motifs
etc was done by hand, drawing or painting each change, it
was a very slow and costly process. CAD allows designs to be
completed very quickly and changed almost instantly.
Advantages of Computer Aided Design

Quick to change colours of a design

Quick to change the scale of a motif on the design

Quick to change design details of a design - sleeve type, collar type, length of
skirt etc.

A design can be 'mapped' onto a figure so that you can see all round it and
how the fabric would drape, how a pattern repeats.

Repeat patterns can be created quickly.

Saves time of the designer as designs can be done so quickly, thus saving
money, and potentially more designs created.

Reduces the amount of repetitive work that designers have to do.

Designs can be saved and used again.

Designs can be sent to the buyer for instant approval.

Can be linked to machinery to create a CAD/CAM machine, which designs
and then makes the product. (CAD/CAM embroidery machine)
Disadvantages of CAD

Specialist Computer Aided Design software is very expensive to buy

Designers have to be trained to use the software.
Computer Aided Manufacture
The making of textile products where the machine is controlled by the
computer.
Advantages of CAM

Reduces the time required to make the textile product.

Is very accurate, all products are made to the same specification (no human
error)

Decreases cost of manufacture as not so many workers have to be paid

Less waste as no mistakes therefore decreases costs

Reduces repetitive work

Can work 24/7
Disadvantages of CAM

Very expensive to buy the machines and software that controls them.

Workers have to be trained to program the machine.

If the machine breaks it will probably need specialist parts to repair it and a
long time to repair when it's not manufacturing products.
Processes carried out by CAM
Spreading and cutting out of fabric – Cuts many layers of the fabric at one time.
Embroidery machine – embroidering many products at once + improves productivity