Sport Studies, Recreation & Athletics 387
Advanced Climbing Systems (Single Pitch Instructor Course)
Spring 2013
Weekly class: Tuesdays 4-6pm
Location: Climbing Wall
Instructor: Brien Sheedy
Office: Outdoor Program, G22 Reid Campus Center
Phone: 522-4395
E-mail: sheedybr@whitman.edu
Course Pre-requisites:
This is a consent only class. Successful candidates need to submit a climbing log listing at least 20 climbs
at the 5.8-5.9 level that the candidate has done as successful lead climbs. These are typically sport climbs
and it is not expected that these be trad climbs but that would be fine as well. The first class often includes
testing of the basics. Candidates are also expected to have taken Beginning and Intermediate climbing
classes or have learned the skills taught in those classes another way. Other prerequisites include:
1. Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags.
2. are at least 18 years old at the time of the course.
3. have 12 months prior climbing experience.
4. are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).
5. have traditionally lead climbed a minimum of 15 rock climbing pitches (any grade).
6. are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.
A candidate meets the SPI Assessment pre-requisites if:
1. They have successfully completed an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course.
2. They have traditionally lead climbed a minimum of 40 rock climbing pitches. A large number
of these should be at 5.6 grade (or higher) in various locations and on a variety of rock types.
3. They are capable of comfortably lead climbing (leader placing own protection) on any 5.6
traditional route. The candidate will demonstrate their leading ability on a variety of routes
during the assessment.
4. They are comfortable leading 5.8 while on a top rope
Class Objective
This course is designed for strong climbers interested in furthering their skills and managing an
institutional single pitch climbing site. Emphasis will be on developing an awareness of liability concerns
and how to mitigate risk. Preparing students for an AMGA single pitch site manager course is the final
goal. Topics that will be covered include: movement on rock, knots and rope systems, anchors, protection
placement, rappelling, belaying, lead climbing, following, rescue techniques, outdoor teaching techniques,
safety and climbing philosophy. This class will focus on developing climbing instructors capable of
managing single pitch sites with either sport anchors or trad gear. There will be an opportunity at the end
of the course to test out and receive an AMGA certification if desired. Teaching techniques, risk
management and single pitch rescue skills will be the main themes of this course. This class will focus
more on teaching, and wall related management skills than in the past and a separate class now exists that
is dedicated to mutli-pitch rescue skills.
Class time
This class will meet Tuesdays 4-6pm until Spring Break and the bulk of the course curriculum will be
taught in Joshua Tree California during Spring Break. There will be required readings before each class
and there will be weekly quizzes on both readings and skills.
Climbing Ability:
People in this class should already be strong climbers that are comfortably leading 5.8-5.9 bolted climbs.
Class Requirements
Attendance is required for all classes and activities. This course is a 3 credit class and will be graded:
25% Class attendance, required readings, participation and awareness of surroundings (safety breaches
can affect your grade (ie., careless around edges, unlocked carabiners, sloppy belaying, ect.) guides
notebook, climbing log, current first aid and CPR cards,
25% Mini teaching presentation and lesson plan & Spring Break trip prep (5-10min) See AMGA CWI
Book, quizzes. Get Whitman Driving Certification or write a 3-page paper analyzing accidents in
climbing programs. (Everyone that qualifies for the Whitman Defensive driving training is required to do
that option)
50% Spring Break trip & Final Exam
First Aid:
The AMGA requires appropriate medical certification as defined below, in order for the Single Pitch
Instructor Certification to be valid. You do not need to send your first aid certification to the AMGA or
your Exam/Recertification provider. If you let your medical certification lapse, your AMGA SPI
Certification is invalid.
-Those working close to urban settings who have EMS back up immediately available or are within a two
hour transport from time of incident to actual arrival at a hospital must have at least a 16hour course in
Basic First aid and CPR. Wilderness First Aid is recommended.
-Those working in remote locations greater than two hours from hospital care are required to be
Wilderness First Responder Certified.
The OP requires Basic First Aid and CPR for climbing instructors but prefers WFR, especially for
scramble leaders. First Aid is not taught as part of this course but individuals expecting to lead trips for
the OP or SSRA Department will need to obtain it prior to being able to work.
Past Quiz Topics:
Quiz #1 Knots
Quiz #2 Knots
Quiz #4 rappel techniques
fall factor written test
Quiz: Take over a belay ascend and help a climber with a jammed body part
Skills test – Multidirectional anchor A
mock lead (J-tree) Excellent= no errors, runs smoothly, quickly, well ahead of time, no coaching.
Acceptable= no errors, meets time but less deliberate, no coaching. marginal: no errors that create definite
danger (ie. Unlocked biner) less timely, slight coaching no more that twice (ie think about what you are
doing?) Unacceptable: Multiple uncorrected minor errors (ie. Continuing unlocked biners, poor
positioning of belayers, exceeding time significantly, required coaching (more than 2 coaching
interventions)
Reading Assignment:
Before we arrive in Joshua tree all participants should have read both the NOLS Rock climbing Instructor
Notebook and also the AMGA SPI manuals completely.
The Paper
This 2-3 page paper is designed to get you research and analyze common climbing accidents. Statistics
and real examples should be used to make your point. Take two common mistakes that lead to accidents
and explain effective ways to prevent that in trips you will lead. Analyzing climbing wall accidents and
single pitch climbing accidents is the preference. Some resources are available in the library, at the OP,
from Brien, and via interlibrary loan. Some useful resources include: The internet, Rock and Ice
Magazine, Accidents in North American Mountaineering, AEE’s Accidents in Adventure Programs,
Wilderness Risk Managers Conference Proceedings & the NOLS climbing instructor notebook. You must
use more than one resource. Due: week after spring break
(-1 per spelling mistake, -5 for no bibliography, -5 poor introduction, -5 poor summary or
conclusion, up to -50 for not making strong well supported points. Support your statements!, be
sure to read carefully what is being asked for in the assignment!)
Mini Teaching topics
Each student is required to present one mini topic from each group to the class. (5-10min)
Group 1 more of a discussion/ presentation – sample topics
Climbing grades
Reading route topos Carabiners
Belaying Tools
Cordage and WebbingHelmets / Harnesses
Rope dynamics and care
Climbing shoes
gear history / development
Group 2 Impromptu skill presentation
Friction hitches
Webbing / rope harness / chest harness
Blocking knots / escape
Ascending techniques
Fees
The posted fee in the catalog for this class is $500. This fee will be taken directly out of your student
account. The fee will cover AMGA membership, AMGA course registrarion, extra staff, transportation,
gas, camping fees, and free Outdoor Program and climbing center rental equipment for course related
activities for the semester. This does not include food which will be shared (However, all bulk foods
from the OP are available for free as a starting point).
Minimum required equipment: (Available for purchase or rent from the Outdoor Rental Shop)
2 4 foot pieces of 5 mm or 6mm cordage $
2 Twenty-Twenty-one foot anchor cordalettes (7mm ) $
1 Guide ATC or reverso $
1 assisted braking device such as the Petzl “gri gri”
5 or more locking carabiners (4 should be pears) $
6 or more non locking carabiners
1 or more Sewn Double shoulder length sling
3 or more shoulder length slings to be used as tethers and anchors
UIAA/CE approved climbing helmet (can be borrowed from OP) or buy one
UIAA/CE approved harness
Climbing shoes and/or approach shoes you can climb up to 5.7
Rescue Items (Salvation on a sling): small knife, 1 roll athletic tape, small LED light, 1 rappel ring, 1-2
quick links
1 small cheap pocket notebook that can fit in back pocket
1 static or “semi static” (gym line) rope 10-11mm, 80-100ft for setting anchors & fixed lines (can borrow
from OP)
Required Texts:
1. NOLS Climbing Instructor Notebook or How to Rock Climb by John Long
2. AMGA Course Participant Manual (Available from OP Director)
3. Whitman Climbing Manual (Available from OP Director)
Optional Texts: (Available in book store)
More Anchors – By John Long
Class Schedule:
Readings must be done prior to the class
Tues., Jan. 29
syllabus, introductions/ice breaker & course overview, knot review. Trad Gear
introduction, racking alpine draws, anchor ropes, butterfly vs mountaineers
coil. Gear discussion review, knot review. Protection placement,
Bring harness, belay devices, webbing, biners and cordage.
Tues., Feb 5
READING: NOLS Chapter 1-4, READING: AMGA p32-35, Lesson plans due
Crack technique, Quiz, Climbing curriculum overview (movement & safety
systems) Belay technique discussion. Belay techniques (BUS vs. Slip slap slide)
Learning and teaching styles, Mini teaching topic discussion, Review/instructor
standard for all basics.
Tues. Feb 12
READING: AMGA Manual p.1-17 ; AMGA p17-18; NOLS p24-29
Assessing fixed protection
Knots, Climbing Anchors - anchoring principles and methods
equalization techniques, natural, trad, bolts. Trip Preparation assignments, quiz
Tues. Feb 19
READING:
Quiz, more knots, professionalism in instructing discussion
Tues. Feb 26
READING: NOLS page 36,
LNT, Demo of lesson and site management, , Quiz
Tues. March 1
READING: AMGA p. 19-20, p42-43
Quiz, Belaying skills for single pitch climbing, trip preparation
Tues. March 5
READING:
Quiz, Trip preparation,
Tuesday before Spring Break Rescue analysis paper or Driving certification due.
March 9-24, 2013 SPRING BREAK: TRIP TO JOSHUA TREE, CA (REQUIRED)
March 9-10 Drive
March 11-17 Course
March 18-19 Free practice days
March 20-21 AMGA testing days
March 22 opt.
March 23-24 Drive back
Tues. March 26
Spring Break trip debrief, OP policy discussion, opt. Evaluations, slide show and
course wrap-up.