1940s and 1950s Melissa Wilm Module 11 1940s and 1950s Fashion Turban – A decorative head wrap or scarf popular during the 1940s because it was a lowcost way to add fashion to an outfit. It was an especially common style for working women. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art Artist: Weegee Uniform - This man, perhaps preparing to depart for his military duties, wears the outerwear of his military uniform. Title: Soldier’s Farewell Date: 1942 1940s and 1950s Fashion Bar Suit – The original Bar Suit was of Dior’s creation, but this designer also plays with the shapes of the Bar Suit and the popular silhouette for the period. Like Dior’s Bar Suit, this one has sloping shoulders, a small waist and a peplum-like hem on the jacket. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Marjorie Field Title: None Pencil Skirt – A straight, fitted skirt that would become especially popular later in the ’50s. This example shows the popular skirt length of the decade that hit past the knees. Date: 1940’s Details: Fashion design for Field, Rhoades, London 1940s and 1950s Fashion Uniform – This man wears his World War II military uniform even in a civilian setting. Stockings – Nylon leg coverings. As seen here, the stockings are two separate pieces and have not yet been connected into pantyhose in this decade. During the war, women would paint their legs with leg makeup instead of wearing stockings in order to reserve nylon for the war effort. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art Artist: Weegee Title: G.I. and Woman at Carnival Date: 1942 1940s and 1950s Fashion !950’s Silhouette – This ensemble shows one of the common silhouettes popular in the 1950s. First, it has a cinched waist likely formed by a laced waspie waist cincher at the waist only, or the full-torso strapless corselet called the Merry Widow. This design also shows a knee-length full skirt that would be supported by stiff crinoline underskirts. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Marcel Fromenti Title: None Date: 1953-1954 Details: Fashion illustration for The Lady magazine 1940s and 1950s Fashion Wide Brimmed Hat – Hats were worn for most occasions except for very casual gatherings. 1950’s Silhouette – A cinched waist created by a waspie or Merry Widow, round shoulder,s and a full skirt held up by stiff crinoline underskirts. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: John French Title: None Date: 1950s Details: John French was a fashion photographer for magazines and newspapers. 1940s and 1950s Fashion Bar Suit – Another designer’s interpretation of Dior’s Bar Suit. It includes sloping shoulders and a fitted waist. Instead of a full skirt, this example shows a pencil skirt. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum of Art Artist: Marjorie Field Title: None Pencil Skirt – A straight, fitted skirt. This example hits just below the knee – a common length for the period. Date: 1948-1949 Details: A pencil, pen, ink and watercolor advertisement for Vogue. 1940s and 1950s Fashion Y-Line Dress – In the 1950s, Dior named his collections after the shape of their silhouettes. This dress comes from the Y line because the neck creates the pointed top of the letter Y. The tight column skirt is the vertical stem of the Y. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Richard Avedon Title: Dovima with the Elephants Date: August 1955 Details: Dress by Christian Dior 1940s and 1950s Fashion Homburg Hat – A hat with two dents on the top and a stiff brim. Hats were commonly worn outside. Turban – A scarf tied decoratively around the head as a headband or head wrap. It was especially common in the 1940s during the war. Lounge Suit – A version of the suit and jacket. It would not be worn with a vest or waistcoat as these garments had disappeared in the decade past. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Unknown 1950’s silhouette – Rounded shoulders, a fitted waist with a straight, tight fitting pencil skirt. Title: None Date: 1952 Modern 1940s and 1950s Fashion A common 1950’s silhouette with round shoulders, a tapered waist accented by a peplum at the hips, and a slim fitting kneelength pencil skirt. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: Fendi Collection: Spring 2011Ready-to-Wear Modern 1940s and 1950s Fashion Bar Suit – A modern version of Dior’s famous suit that was part of the iconic New Look following World War II. This modern example has especially pronounced sloping shoulders. It shows a slim, belted waist and a full skirt. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: Christian Dior Collection: Spring 2012 Couture Modern 1940s and 1950s Fashion Waspie – A modern take on the laced waist cincher used in the 1940s and 1950s to create the ideal small waist and hourglass figure. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: Dolce & Gabbana Collection: Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear Modern 1940s and 1950s Fashion Bar Suit– This ensemble channels the elements of the Bar Suit created by Dior in 1947 following the end of World War II. A tightly belted waist emulates the small waists created by the waspie waist cincher. The full peplum skirt on this example mirrors the full skirts of Dior’s creations . The skirt were so full in fact that the Bar Suit used 12 yards of fabric. Similarities can also be seen with the gloves and hat. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: Milly Collection: Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear Modern 1940s and 1950s Trend Fishtail Skirts In the 1950s, Jacques Fath was known for creating tight evening dresses that fanned into fishtail trains resembling fins. Today, fishtail skirts are glamorous additions to eveningwear. They are not common for everyday dress, but can often be found on the red carpet and in bridal styles. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: Marchesa Collection: Fall 2013 Ready-To-Wear SOURCE: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Jean Dessès Title: None Date: 1948 Modern 1940s and 1950s Trend Pencil Skirts In the 1950s, pencil skirts were a common garment for women. They would be simple, fitted skirts that ended below the knee with a cinched waist. The pencil skirt remains popular today for women’s wear. It is especially prevalent for business wear, but can also be worn for slightly dressier casual wear as see in these L’Wren Scott examples. The modern skirt has also greatly shortened since the 1950s. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: L’Wren Scott Collection: Resort 2013 SOURCE: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Marcel Fromenti Title: None Date: 1953-1954 Norman Hartnell Basic Information: • Born in 1901 in London. • Died in June 1979. • He worked with the Madame Desiree, Lucile and Esther designers before starting his own salon. • He was the first couturier to be knighted. Influence on Fashion: • He designed Queen Elizabeth’s wedding and coronation gowns. • He was appointed as the dressmaker to the royal family in England. • Norman Hartnell also designed for theater and film productions. • The house of Hartnell continues to create wedding dresses and evening gowns today. Jacques Fath Basic Information: • Born in 1912. • Died on November 12th, 1954. • His fashion and design skills were self-taught. Influence on Fashion: • Along with Dior and Balmain, Fath was one of the three most dominant forces in couture following the war. • His designs were known for hourglass shapes, deep necklines, cinched waists and full skirts. • He designed the wedding dress of Rita Hayward. • He introduced stockings with Chantilly lace tops. Sources http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG3361532/Norman-Hartnell-masterof-the-royal-wardrobe.html http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/norman-hartnell/ http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/jacques-fath/ http://www.designerindex.net/designers/jacquesfath.html 1960s and 1970s Melissa Wilm Module 12 1960s and 1970s Fashion Sheath MiniskirtThe straight, boxy style of a sheath dress with the short length of a mini skirt. Notice also that the woman’s hair has a geometric style made popular by Vidal Sassoon. Seen in this photo is Barbara Hulanicki’s Biba store known for its fashionable clothing and eccentric interior. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Philip Townsend Title: Biba Date: 1942 Details: Photo of the Biba, High Street Kensington shop in London. 1960s and 1970s Fashion Miniskirt – A very short skirt that hit at the thighs. Tights – Tight fitting leg coverings joined together and held up by a waistband. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Mary Quant Title: None Date: Mid 1960’s Details: Fashion illustration. 1960s and 1970s Fashion Printed Shirt – This colorful patterned shirt shows the movement of the “Peacock Revolution” that aimed to bring color and variety into men’s clothing. Vest – The vest as part of the 3piece suit was beginning to make a comeback, especially later into the 1970s. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: John French Title: None Cravats – All the men wear cravats, or neckties. These were long lengths of fabric knotted around the neck. Suit – A typical style of suit for ‘60s with a slim fit and high buttoning. Date: 1960s Details: John French was a fashion photographer for magazines and newspapers. 1960s and 1970s Fashion Maxi Dress – A floor length dress. This example shows the popularity of ethnic influences on fashion because of its Oriental design and tassels. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: John Bates Title: None Date: 1974 Details: Fashion illustration. 1960s and 1970s Fashion Sweater – A popular knitted top in the 1970’s that drew inspiration from the sweaters of the 1930s and 1940s. Jeans – Stiff pants made of denim and made popular by the brand Levi Strauss. It was fashionable to have flared jeans with interesting washes. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Al Vanderberg Title: Untitled Date: 1975 Details: Vanderberg was a photographer for editorials, fashion and advertising. 1960s and 1970s Fashion Ethnic Pattern – The hooded coat shows an ornate pattern with cultural and ethnic influences – a trend common the 1970s. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Bill Gibb Title: None Midi skirt – A skirt hitting the leg between the knee and the ankle. This example show the style of skirts and pants at the natural waist. Date: 1978 Details: Fashion illustration 1960s and 1970s Fashion Sweaters – The women in this image show the range of sweater styles during the 1960s that found inspiration from the sweaters of the ‘30s and ‘40s. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: John French Title: None Date: 1960s Details: John French was a fashion photographer for magazines and newspapers. 1960s and 1970s Fashion Collarless Jacket – A jacket fastened with a single button. It did not have lapels or a collar. Bracelet Sleeves- Seveneighths length sleeves that end just above the wrist. The name comes from the sleeves’ ability to showcase bracelets. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Marjorie Field Title: None Sheath – A popular dress with a boxy, shape and a skirt similar to loose pencil skirt. At the beginning of the 1960s, it had a defined waist that slowly loosened as the decade progressed. Date: 1960 Details: Fashion illustration for the haute couture house Fild Rhoades. 1960s and 1970s Modern Fashion Nehru Jacket – A man’s jacket that had buttons from the neck to the hem. It had a standing collar called a mandarin collar that extended up the neck about an inch. The Nehru jacket was named after a prime minister of India. Safari Inspiration – This ensemble mirrors the safari suits created by Yves Saint Laurent. They had a tied waist, buttons and neutral tones of fabric. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: Marc Jacobs Collection: Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear 1960s and 1970s Modern Fashion Ethnic Inspiration – This poncho-like garment channels the ethnic motifs popular in the the ‘60s and ’70s with its tassels and printed fabrics. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: Nicholas K Collection: Spring 2013 Ready-to-Wear 1960s and 1970s Modern Fashion Le Smoking – Yves St. Laurent introduced a tuxedo for women, and this menswear inspired suit takes inspiration from that creation of Saint Laurent. Peacock Revolution – The colorful and patterned suit shows the increased color and ornamentation on menswear in the ‘60s and ‘70s in an effort called the Peacock Revolution to enhance men’s clothing. Platform Shoes - Shoes with high stacked heels and soles for both men and women. These gleaned inspiration from the platforms of Ferragamo’s creation in the 1930s. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: Marni Collection: 2013 Pre-Fall 1960s and 1970s Modern Fashion Beehive Hair – A tall hairstyle created by teasing the hair or using wigs and fake hairpieces such as braids. PVC – (Polyvinyl chloride) A glossy, smooth material promoted by Mary Quant for use in clothing design. Tights- With mini skirts at an all-time shortness during the ‘60s, these tight fitting leg coverings became common. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: Prada Collection: Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear 1960s and 1970s Modern Trend Mini Skirts Skirts reached their shortest lengths ever in the 1960s and 1970s with hems up to the thighs. Both Mary Quant and André Courrèges are credited with being the “mother” and “father” of the mini skirt as they simultaneously introduced styles in their collections. When midi and maxi style skirts became popular in the ‘70s, many women resisted the style fearing it was a hindrance on the expansion of women’s rights and freedom of expression. In modern times, the mini skirt remains popular. Common in everyday wear and evening party attire, the mini skirt could be a jean skirt, a body con style, or even a dressier satin sheath like these in the recent Wayne collection. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: Wayne Collection: Resort 2014 SOURCE: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: André Courrèges Title: Mini-Dress Date: 1966 Modern 1940s and 1950s Trend Trapeze Silhouettes In the late ‘50s and into the ‘60s, Ives Saint Laurent’s trapeze silhouette was popular for women. It also encompassed the miniskirt styles of the period. The trapeze silhouette had a triangular or conical shape with a tapered point at the shoulders that expanded into a large, loose circular hem. Many women today continue to wear the trapeze silhouette. It is common in casual summer or beach apparel, as seen in the Missoni collection from the spring of 2013. Some women may choose to belt a trapeze dress to achieve a more structured style. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: Missoni Collection: Spring 2013 Ready-To-Wear SOURCE: Metropolitan Museum of Art Artist: Yves Saint Laurent Title: L’Eléphant Blanc Date: 1958 Cristobal Balenciaga Basic Information: • Born on January 21, 1895. • Died on March 24th, 1972. • As a child, Balenciaga worked with his mother who was a seamstress. • He later had formal training in tailoring in Madrid, Spain. Influence on Fashion: • Unlike other couturiers, Balenciaga knew how to cut, drape and fit toiles. • He introduced the balloon jacket, the balloon skirt, a high-waisted baby doll dress and a draped cocoon coat. • Balenciaga and a Swiss fabric house created silk gazar. • He was known for stand away collars and bracelet sleeves. Yves Saint Laurent Basic Information: • Born on August 1, 1936. • Died on June 1, 2008. Influence on Fashion: • His designs were published in Vogue when he was just 17 years old. • He was the first living designer to have an exhibition in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. • Saint Laurent began his career working with Christian Dior and he later took over as the head designer for the house of Dior. • Saint Laurent lost his position at Dior when he was called to his home in Algeria to fight in the war for independence. • Saint Laurent started his own fashion house when he returned from war. • He is famous for le Smoking, the reefer jacket, the pea coat, the sheer blouse and the jumpsuit. Sources http://www.biography.com/people/cristóbal-balenciaga-38780 http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/bale/hd_bale.htm http://www.biography.com/people/yves-saint-laurent-9469669?page=1 http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/biographies/yves-saint-laurent-biography 1980s and 1990s Melissa Wilm Module 12 1980s and 1990s Fashion Jean Jacket – A jacket especially popular in the 1980s made of denim. This example appears to be acid washed because of its light color. A variety of washes of denim was popular in the decade. It was also common to pair light and dark washed items as shown here with the dark jeans and light jacket. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Stephen Linard Title: None Date: 1986 Details: Part of the Levi Strauss and Co. “BLITZ” collection with designer-customized jackets. 1980s and 1990s Fashion T-Shirt – Simple, t-shaped tops with a round collar and short sleeves were popular casualwear in the ‘80s and ‘90s. Shirts with slogans and designs were especially in style. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Anita Corbin Title: The Cloth Summit Torn Jeans – Denim jeans with rips, tears and frays. Denim came in a variety of washes, like the lighter wash of these examples. Date: 1985 Details: A photo of designs by The Cloth. 1980s and 1990s Fashion Oversized Shoulders – Broad, oversized and heavily structured shoulders that were often supported with shoulder pads. These shoulders created the common silhouette of the time that had a bulky upper body and thin lower body. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Oleg Cassini Title: None Natural Waist – Waistlines just above the hips at the natural waistline were most common during this period. Date: 1988 Details: Fashion illustration. 1980s and 1990s Fashion Hip-Hop Culture – The styling of these women references hip-hop culture that includes athletic wear like sneakers, sweatpants and athletic jackets. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Normski Title: She Rockers Date: 1988 Details: Photo of a London rap and dance group. 1980s and 1990s Fashion Slogan T-Shirt – A casual, t-shaped top with an image and text. Tennis Shoes without Laces – A popular hip-hop style inspired by prison clothing where laces were not allowed, Source: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Normski Title: Islam B-Boys Date: 1987 Details: Photo from London. 1980s and 1990s Fashion Power Suit - A 1990’s interpretation of the 1980’s “Power Suit.” This menswear inspired business suit for women had strong, padded shoulders in the ‘80s. This ‘90s version has a less-structured silhouette, but it no doubt gleans inspiration from the soft fabrics and light colors of Armani’s power suits. Source: The Vogue Archive Artist: Arthur Elgort Title: None Date: August 1995 Details: Alpaca and wool suit by Jil Sander. 1980s and 1990s Fashion Baseball Cap – A fitted cap with a bill-like brim. It illustrates the presence of sportswear and active wear in everyday dress in the ‘80s and ‘90s. Gold Chains- Metal jewelry taking inspiration from hip-hop culture. T-Shirt – A t-shaped top with a round neck and short sleeves. Stone Wash Jeans – Denim pants with a slightly worn light blue coloring. Source: The Vogue Archive Artist: Patrick Demarchelier Title: None Date: August 1991 Details: Scaasi jacket, J. Crew cap, Chanel necklace and belt, Guess jeans and Gap t-shirt. 1980s and 1990s Fashion Denim Dress – Denim clothing like this dress was popular in the ‘80s in a variety styles and washes. This dress is also an example of the work of the ‘80s designer Azzedine Alaïa. He was known for his figure-hugging styles as shown by the tight hips of this example. Source: The Vogue Archive Artist: Steven Meisel Title: None Date: April 1986 Details: Azzedine Alaïa dress. 1980s and 1990s Modern Fashion Printed T-Shirt – Grunge ensembles often included tshirts printed with a band’s name or logo. Grunge – This ensemble finds inspiration from the grunge subculture of the 1990s. Flannel Shirt- A long-sleeved shirt made of a soft material and often made in a plaid pattern. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: 3.1 Phillip Lim Collection: Spring 2013 Ready-to-Wear 1980s and 1990s Modern Fashion Candy Ravers Subculture Those whose style reflected the Candy Ravers subculture of the 1990s wore very bright colors, sucked pacifiers and carried toys. This ensemble shows bright colors and a stuffed animal accessory that resemble the outfits of candy ravers. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: Jeremy Scott Collection: Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear 1980s and 1990s Modern Fashion Jean Jacket – A denim jacket popular in the ’80s. Denim during the decade came in a variety of washes for many types of garments. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: Christopher Kane Collection: Resort 2014 1980s and 1990s Modern Fashion Leather Jacket – After the release of Michael Jackson’s “Thriller” music video in which Jackson wore a red leather jacket, similar jacket styles like this example became popular in the 1980’s. The fedora and single glove is also a reference to Michael Jackson, Conical Bra – In this modern example, Gaultier references the pointed cone bustier he created for Madonna’s Blonde Ambition tour of the 1990s. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: Jean Paul Gaultier Collection: Spring 2013 Ready-to-Wear 1980s and 1990s Trend Slogan T-Shirts In the 1980’s and 1990’s, it was popular to promote a band, a cause or an idea on a t-shirt with graphics and text. For example, Franco Moschino relays the message of “No to Racism!” on his ‘90s creation. Grunge styles in particular embraced the bandpromoting t-shirt. Similar t-shirts remain popular today and will often promote a band, a designer, a brand, a cause or an idea via the same means of image and text. Moschino’s Fall 2007 tshirts proclaim, “Ready, set, love.” SOURCE: Style.com Designer: Moschino Collection: Fall 2007 Ready-To-Wear SOURCE: Victoria and Albert Museum Artist: Franco Moschino Title: None Date: 1994 1980s and 1990s Trend Power Suit As more and more women were entering the workforce in the 1980s, many women chose to dress in “power suits” inspired by men’s business attire. It was especially popular in the ‘80s for women to wear structured oversized shoulders. Giorgio Armani was a key designer in these tailored suits of the decade for both men and women. Women today continue to choose to wear menswearinspired suits and business attire in their workplaces. Even the oversized shoulders of the ‘80s are making a comeback as seen in this 2008 Armani ensemble. SOURCE: Style.com Designer: Emporio Armani Collection: Fall 2008 Ready-To-Wear SOURCE: The Vogue Archive Artist: Oliviero Toscani (photographer) Title: None Date: March 1984 Donna Karan Basic Information: • Born on October 2nd, 1948. • Her mother was a model and her stepfather was a suit designer. • She studied at the Parsons School of Design. • She began working for Anne Klein and was named head designer when she was 26 years old. • She later left the label to start her own collection. Influence on Fashion: • She aimed to “design modern clothes for modern people.” • Her Donna Karan New York (DKNY) label catered to needs of consumers for more affordable clothing. • She creates durable, wearable and practical clothing exemplified by her Essentials line of several mix-and-match pieces. Vivienne Westwood Basic Information: • Born on April 8th, 1941. • Westwood was named the British designer of the year twice. Influence on Fashion: • Her designs greatly influenced the punk movement of the 1970s. • She designed the costumes of the Sex Pistols. • Her well known styles include her Pirate collection, the mini-crini in the ‘80s and the frayed suit of tulle and tweed in the ‘90s. • In 1981, her first catwalk collection – Pirates – featured unisex garments. • Future collections found inspiration from National Geographic, witches, Western films and historical garments. Sources http://www.biography.com/people/donna-karan-9360373?page=1 http://www.thebiographychannel.co.uk/biographies/donna-karan.html http://www.biography.com/people/vivienne-westwood-20624587?page=1 http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/v/vivienne-westwood-designs/