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Thursday, June 9
Richard Martin Exhibition
Award Presentation
1 0 : 0 0 - 1 1 :0a0.m.
"High Style: Betsy Bloomingdale and the Haute Couture"
Kevin Jonesand Christina Johnson,
FashionInstituteof Designand MerchandisingMuseum& Galleries
..................
6
"SimpliciQr, Good Grooming, and Good Taste:" The Style of Emily Wilkens
..............................
7
RebeccaJumperMatheson,FashionInstituteof Technology
Thursday, June 9
Juried Oral Presentations
1 l : 0 5 - 1 2 : 1p5.m.
Thursday, June 9
Juried Oral Presentations
1 : 1 5 - 2 : 4p5.m.
Charles Kleibacker: Designer, Educator and Curator 192l-2010
Anne Bissonette,Universityof Alberta
From Broadway to Fifth Avenue: The Achievements and Innovations of
American Designer Kiviette
Dilia Lopez-Gydosh,
Universityof Delaware
Thursday, June 9
Juried Oral Presentations
4:40-5:50p.m.
l1
............
Fontanges, Frelange, and Frippery: A Conversation Between [ace and Coiffure
.......... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
El i z a b e thD a v i s ,C o r nel lU ni versi ty.
Monstrous Beauty: Women, Wealth and Chopines in Late Sixteenth-Century Venice
...........................
13
ElizabethSemmelhack,
The BataShoeMuseum
The Gossamen An Enduring Raincoat of the Late Nineteenth Century
ArlesaShephard,TexasA&M University-Kingsville.........
Thursday, June 9
Juried Oral Presentations
p .m.
3 : 0 0 - 4 : 10
..............9
PANEL- Everyone's Doing It Percpectives on Social Media and Fashion
JohannaBjork, Editor-in-Chief,Goodlifer.comand Style Blogger,ConcreteFlower.se
RachelHarris,SocialMedia Manager,FashionInstitute of Designand MerchandisingMuseum
SarahScaturro,Textile Conservator,Cooper-Hewitt,National DesignMuseum
l0
...........................
MonicaSklar,Founderand Editor,Wornthrough.com.............
American ldols: Fashions d l'AmEricaine in Pre-Revolutionary France
IndependentScholar.........
KimberlyChrisman-Campbell,
Thursday, June 9
Juried Oral Presentations
1 : 4 5 *2 : 5p5.m.
......................8
Integrating History and Design: Patent, Process, and Invention
JeanParsons,Iowa StateUniversity
14
..............
15
.........................
Advice for Women on Working Apparel from 1890-1900: A Content Analysis
of Ladies' Home Journal and Harper's Bazaar
16
............................
KateCarroll,North CarolinaStateUniversity....
Ert6 and Walska
LouiseCoffey-Webb,
WoodburyUniversity....
.........17
Leigh Bowery: One Object, One Year
SonnetStanfill,Victoriaand Albert Museum
...........
18
Historically-Inspired Dress as a Pensonal Style Choice
DinaSmith and Jos6Blanco,Universityof Georgia
C O S T U ME
S O C IE TY
OF A ME R IC A
2011
......................
19
A B S TR A C TS
CtlNTE NT S
I
Friday, June l0
Stella Blum Student
Research Grant Presentation
8:30-9:00a.m.
Friday, June l0
Juried Oral Presentations
9 : 0 0 - 10 :1a0.m.
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"Patriotic Chic:" The American War Production Board
and Clothing Design Restrictions
LauraBellewHannon,Universityof California,Riverside......
..........6
Alatzas: Handwoven Fabrics During the Early Industrial Period in Greece
L i n d aWe l te rsU
, ni versi tyof R hodeIsl and...........
......... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
"DSrnamicDesigns:" Handwoven Textiles of Mary Crovatt Hambidge
Su s a nN e i l l ,A tl a ntaH i storyC enter..........
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Of "Peasant Design and Workmanship:" Contextualizing Eastern European
Costumes and Textiles from the Christian Brinton Collection
LauraCamerlengo,
PhiladelphiaMuseumof Art........
....................22
Deborah Franklin: Bringing a Historic Figure to Life Onstage Historical Accuracy in a Theatrical Production
JennielynnStreed,TempleUniversity....
Friday, June l0
Juried Research Exhibits
1 0 : 1 5 - 11 :3a0.m.
....................
23
Unveiling the Woman's Face: Impacts of Western Culture on Korean
'Women'sDress During 1870-1910
SeunghyeCho,FraminghamStateUniversity....
.......24
"Hobble Skirt Tripped Her!:" The Portrayal of the Hobble Skirt, 1910-1913
C a rme nKe i s t,Io waS tateU ni versi ty.................
Macedonian Village Dress, Going, Going, Gone
NaedaB. Robinson,IndependentScholarand Author
. . . . . . . . . . 25
..................26
The Kente Rap: A Reinterpretation of Traditional Ghanaian Textiles
Through Different Techniques and Media
PhyllisMiller,MississippiStateUniversity....
............27
Rebozos of Mexico: Style Demonstrations
ElaineVeynaBannatyne,IndependentResearcherand Collector............................................28
Women and Cancer, a Visual Presentation
Jill Careyand ElizaFitzgerald,LasellCo11ege....................
Suit and Tie
Pa me l aSe b o r-C abl Frami
e,
ngham
S tateU ni versi ty.................
Designing and Adapting Period Costumes for Community Theatre
BriannaPlummer,FraminghamStateUniversity..................
Defining the Shirtwaist
KarenDepauq ConnecticutHistoricalSociety
A Versatile Mannequin Design
GwenSpicer,SpicerArt Conservation,LLC
SOC IE TY
OF A ME R IC A
......... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
..........31
.............................32
Dressing Detroit: Detroit Area Dressmakerc from 1880-1920 as
Represented at the Collections of the Henry Ford Museum
EricaWhite,The Henry Ford Museum
C OS T U ME
..............29
......................33
..............34
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Friday, June l0
Juried Research Exhibits
1 0 : 1 5 - 1 1:3a0.m.
(continued)
The Robbins Family of East Lexington, Massachusettsand
Their Clothing, 1775-1840
JenniferM. Swope,Museum of FineArts, Boston
35
Inside-Out and Online: The Use of Digital Media to Share
Multiple Perspectives of Historic Costume
A rd e nKi rk l a n d Vassar
,
C ol l ege.........
36
Skirting the Issue: Examining the Social Implications of an Early Hobble Dress
...............37
ChloeBoxer.VassarCollese
Friday, June l0
Juried Oral Presentations
ll:40-I2:50 p.m.
Canton to Washington: Dress in Toy Len Goon's Transition from
Chinese Peasant to Political Icon
JackieField,Author and IndependentScholar
Dressing the Jibaro: Clothing of the Puerto Rican Peasant through Time and Space
..........................39
RaulVasquezLopezand JoseBlanco,Universityof Georgia....
Hidden Revolution: Native Attributes in the Images of the
Virgin of the Rosary in Eighteenth-Century Peru
Kelly Mohs Gage,St.CatherineUniversity....
Friday, June l0
Scholars' Roundtable
ll:40-12:50 p.m.
Saturday, June ll
Millia Davenport Publication
Award Presentation
9 : 1 5 - 1 0 :1a5.m.
Saturday, June ll
Juried Oral Presentations
1 1 : 0 0 - 1 2 :1p0.m.
..........40
Innovations in Fashion and Dress Scholarship
Marilyn Delong, Professorof Apparel Studies,University of Minnesota
Anne Bissonette,Curator of Clothing and TextilesCollection,University of Alberta
HowardVincentKurtz,AssociateProfessorof TheaterDesign,GeorgeMasonUniversity
Dior: A New Look, a New Enterprise
AlexandraPalmer,RoyalOntarioMuseum....
.............6
"A Matter of Extreme Awkwardness and Perplexity:" The Mutual Interplay of Dance
Fashions and Fashionable Dances in the Nineteenth Century
.... . . . . . . . . . . .4l
.....
Ka ri nBo e h l e k eS, h i ppensburg
U ni versi ty..................
"The New Costumes of Odd Sizes:" PlusSize Women's Fashions of the 1920s
...................42
CarmenKeistand SaraMarcketti,Iowa StateUniversity.................
Shapely Bodies: The Material Culture of Women's Health 1880-f 920
KathleenDaly,BostonUniversity....
Saturday, June ll
Juried Oral Presentations
l 1 : 0 0 - 1 2 :3p0.m.
.......38
.........................
43
Panel - The Graveyard of Fashion: Towards an Archaeology of the Wardrobe
Alison Matthews David, School of Fashion,RyersonUniversity
Hilary Davidson,Museum of London
......................44
CarolineEvans,CentralSaintMartinsCollegeof Art and Design
C OS T U IV IE SOC IE TY
OF A N ]IR IC A
2O1O
A B S TR A C TS
C ( l N T ENT S
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"Everyone Can Go to Harlem - and Everyone Does:" Fashion Magazines
and Harlem Nighttife 1920-f 937
SusanHannel,Universityof RhodeIsland............
..........................45
Saturday, June ll
Juried OraI Presentations
p.m.
1:30-3:00
Five Little Dresses:Revealing the Dionne Quintuplets
Tina Bates,CanadianMuseumof Civilization..........-.........
Revolution or Evolution?: Ernmanuelle Khanh's Readv-to-Wear
Creations in 1960s Paris
AlexisRomano,IndependentScholar
Soul Train Fashion Parade
Emily Ripley,QueensCollege,ParsonsSchoolof Design......
Saturday, June ll
Virtual Exhibition Tour &
Juried Oral Presentations
3:00-4:10p.m.
Virtual Exhibition Tour - An Invitation to the Ball: Marjorie Post's
Fancy Dress Costumes of the 1920s
HowardKurtz,HillwoodEstate,Museum& Gardens....
Pakaian Adat Fashionable Change in Balinese Formal Dress
Carol Bowdoin Gil, FashionInstitute of Designand Merchandising
and PettersonMuseumof InterculturalArt ...........
A Biography of the Cloud Collar
RachelSilberstein,Universityof Oxford......
.............46
.......................47
.........48
.................49
........................50
..............51
Saturday, June ll
Juried Oral Presentations
3 : 0 0 - 4 :1 p
0 .m.
Panel - (Re)Defining Fashion
Abby Lillethun, Montclair StateUniversity
Linda Welters,University of Rhode Island
JoanneEicher,ProfessorEmerita,Universityof Minnesota
Saturday, June 1l
Juried Oral Presentations
4:20-4:50p.m.
Reconstructing History While Dressing Lady Charlotte, the Countess of Dunmore
JaneaWhitacreand BrendaRousseau,ColonialWilliamsburgFoundation.............................53
C O S T U ME
S O C IE TY
OF A ME R IC A
2011
A B S TR A C TS
.........52
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P R OF E SS IO N AL
Wednesday,June 8
1 : 3 0 - 4 :3p0.m.
D E V E LOP ME N T
S E S S ION S
Professionally Speaking: A Career in Costume and Fashion
Howard Vincent Kurtz, GeorgeMason University
Ariele Elia,The FashionInstituteof Technology
...........................54
Thursday, June 9
3 : 0 0 - 4 :1 p
0 .m.
Conservation 9l l: Choosing and Working with a Freelance Conservator
Jeff Moore, Chief Conservator,The PreservationSocietyof Newport County
AlexandraAllardt, ArtCare Resources
RebeccaKelly,FreelanceTextile Conservator
JessicaUrick,TextileConservator,The PreservationSocietyof Newport County................54
Thursday, June 9
4 : 4 0 - 6 :1 p
0 .m.
Teaching Costume and Dress History
SaraB. Marcketti, Iowa StateUniversity
V al l ey...........
S h e ry lF a rn a nL e i p zi g,MC C -P enn
............. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Saturday, June ll
l:30-3:30p.m.
Preparing a Book Prospectus
JaneFarrell-Beck,Iowa StateUniversity
Judith Keeling,TexasTech University Press
R o b Sc h o rm a nMi
Ohi o..............
, a miU ni versi ty,
............. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
......... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
P re s e n te rs ' A d d re sses
S y mp o s i u mPl a n n i ngC ommi ttee...
Symposium2012Ad.........
C0 S T UT \ 4E S 0C IET Y
0F
A M ER IC A
2 0 11
A B S IR A C IS
........... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Insideback cover