FASHION
Trend Report
Bread & Butter 2010
Premium 2010
Vintage
Craftsmanship
Functional
Fashion
Eco Chic
Kidults
Colla­boration
Artiness
Contents
Editorial
7 TRENDS
Vintage
04
Craftsmanship
06
Functional Fashion
08
Eco Chic
10
Kidults
12
Collaboration
14
Artiness
16
Moods
18
Imprint
20
July 2010. Hot summer temperatures, Germany come
third in the Football World Cup and the fashion scene
meets in Berlin. 650 exhibitors at the “Bread & Butter“
and 950 new collections at the “PREMIUM” are proof
of how vibrant this industry is and how much it has
to offer.
We would like to share this inspiring week full of
impressions with you.
In this report Trendbüro will analyse the nume­
rous observations and exciting developments of both
fashion trade shows. On the one hand, we would like to
show what can be expected on the shelves and clothes
rails in summer 2011. But it is just as important to us
to create an understanding for the social context in
which the numerous announced fashion trends are to
be read. The fashion carousel is spinning faster and
faster. “Fast fashion” houses such as H&M or Zara have
broken down the structure of the classic seasons long
ago and are driving the acceleration even further.
Against this background this report does not pri­
marily focus on the traditional questions of the fashion
editors: “What goes? What comes? What stays?“ In­
stead, we will take a close look beneath the pretty sur­
face. As observers of social change we understand
fashions as something that appears on the surface of
what are in fact underlying social developments and as
the visual manifestation of the desires and needs of
the people. Hence, the exciting question we have to
ask is: what lies behind those rapidly changing forms
of expression? What trends influence fashion?
We hold up our mirror to fashion: what does
the fashion industry has to offer in terms of meeting
the current desires and needs of the people? This
­r eport presents the essence of our analysis: seven
trends will illustrate what is currently happening in
the fashion industry, what designers and brands will
have in store for us next year and what consumer
needs they will address.
Enjoy reading the report,
TRENDBÜRO
Fashion Trend Report
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Vintage
02
04
05
06
01 Levis Vintage Jeans
02 Ellesse Marathon 84
03 Nike V-Series
04/05 Diesel Turbodenim Jeans
06 Calvin Klein Chucks
03
01
Vintage
Swiftness and perfection are penetrating into more
and more areas of our lives and become the standard
at work and in our daily routine. In fashion, the desire
to escape from these performance criteria manifests
itself in the unbroken success of vintage clothing. It is
its distinctiveness, “non-perfectness”, uniqueness
and history that makes vintage so special today. More­
over, it presents an alternative to the globalized mass
market.
Large brands and global players such as Nike
or Levis are returning to former successes and are
­r e-launching designs from their archives. Only rarely
are the pieces of the collection truly “used”, though.
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Fashion Trend Report
In fact, what matters is a playful handling of the past:
using the old patterns and materials while avoi­ding sleek perfection. Patches, destroyed effects
and a particular vintage wash create the special “used”
look.
Old meets new, new looks remarkably old or is
enhanced by innovative technologies. For the summer
season 2011 Nike will re-launch their V-Series running
shoe collection from the Eighties. The three originals
Vor­tex, Vector and Vengeance are returning in vin­
tage style (including traces of sand from the stadium).
Nike also looked into the future and re-interpreted the
­v intage designs with the help of latest technologies
and super light materials and also optimized them
for running.
07 Ellesse 70s inspired Heritage
07
Summer Collection 2011
Ellesse and Levis follow the motto “return to
the beginnings”. With the Marathon 84, Ellesse relaunches a 1984 sneaker model and transports us to
a time when tennis was still a sport that fascinated
us. For their “Levis Vintage” collection, Levis works
with jeans from their archives and creates replicas
based on the original designs that come with dust, dirt
and holes for the modern office nomads, saving them
from having to endure the stresses and strains them­
selves. This way, workers clothes from former cen­
turies acquire a new meaning and distinctiveness in
today’s knowledge and information society.
Diesel, on the other hand, has interpreted
the desire for authenticity slightly differently. The
­I talians promise “from raw to vintage in less than
30 days” and are introducing a new material with their
“Turbodenim” where the vintage effect comes to life
especially fast. An attached card helps the potential
buyer to identify at what time of wearing certain visual
effects will be achieved.
Clothes accompany us through life and the relaunch of old designs brings back memories of times
long gone. In a way, vintage designs help preserve this
period and transfer it to the present.
Fashion Trend Report
5
Crafts­
man­sh­ip
01/03 Levis “Sewn” jeans look like hand-made
02 Onitsukas “Made of Japan” collection
04 Tie manufactory Edsor Kronen
­demon­s trates tailoring art
05 Anachronorm is a Japanese clothing label,
which uses “made-in-Japan” techniques
to re-create the feeling of handmade clothing
01
02
03
Craftsmanship
“Craftsmanship, heritage und authenticity” are buzz
words to be frequently heard at the Bread & Butter
show and also summarise the topic of the L.O.C.K. area
(Labels of Common Kin). With their focus on crafts­
manship many brands in this area seem like a counter
model for our fast moving society, but also for the
­cycles of fashion that tend to turn faster and faster.
Craftsmanship also means to invest time which these
days is becoming more and more difficult and there­
fore more valuable.
Bread & Butter Managing Director Karl-Heinz
Mueller adequately describes the manufacture as
“the luxury of the future”. Not only the “what” matters,
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Fashion Trend Report
but also the “how”, with each brand revealing it in a
­different way. Manufacturing becomes “touchable”
at the booth of 100-year-old Berlin-based tie manu­
factory Edsor Kronen. Equipped with a sewing
­machine and fabrics they produced individual ties
at the trade show.
“Sewn with the strongest thread” is the motto
at Levis who accentuate craftsmanship by using a
special “stitch” design where the seams of the trou­
sers look as if they were hand-sewn. Incompleteness
becomes a principle; the disclosure of the manu­­
facturing process is used as a design element. What
matters is distinctiveness. Love for detail and crafts­
manship become differentiation criteria in the mass
market.
04
An emphasis on tradition and manufacturing
can be seen in Onitsuka’s new shoe line. Under the
motto “Made of Japan” traditional Japanese manufac­
turing criteria meet current styles. The AISEN collec­
tion is dyed with the “dip-dye” method. Inconsistent
colouring is intended and meant to underline the
“handmade effect”. Craftsmanship stands for the in­
creasing desire for uniqueness, quality and value.
05
Fashion Trend Report
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Functional
Fashion
06
02
01
04
Functional Fashion
How does the fashion industry ad­dress the increasing
flexibilisation of our everyday lives? “Always on” also
means to be prepared for more eventualities – clothes
should be comfortable and multi-functional. Perfor­
mance is also expected of clothes. Intelligent mate­r ials
and technical functions are increasingly integrated into
fashion items that are supposed to support and protect
us in the urban jungle in the best possible way. And, at
the same time, they give us a feeling of ad­venture in
our daily routine. After the success of the classic out­
door brands, fashion brands are now also focussed on
functionality and integrate covert or ­obvious visual
elements known from sport and outdoor apparel.
8
03
Fashion Trend Report
05
The promise: “well dressed – no matter what
might be in store for you”. Nike and Adidas use glued
seams that provide better protection against rain
while meeting the requirements of fashion-conscious
consumers. Sneakers copy the looks and wearing com­
fort of hiking boots. The classic rubber boots undergo
a renaissance at Diesel or Moovboot and turn into
fashion items thanks to bright colours, high-quality
lambskin lining or rhinestones. The use of materials
common in high performance sport equipment such
as neoprene at Marithé + FranÇois Girbaud pro­
mises comfort.
Comfortable on high heels? In recent years,
Scholl, well-known from the health-conscious seg­
ment, has followed the principle of “technology
b­ ecomes style”. With some designs only the buckle is
reminiscent of the classic Scholl wooden mule. Puma
addresses convenience in urban spaces with their
­“ Urban Mobility” concept. New to the collection
is, among others, a backpack with an integrated hood
– space-saving and convenient, with a twinkle in the
eye. Even means of transport become fashionable
which shows in the many style bikes to be spotted
in the cities. British bicycle saddle manufacturer
Brooks understood the importance of style and de­
sign for the urban cyclist and draws attention to them­
selves through co-operations with, for instance, the
skate brand Vans.
07
01 Freitag’s new “Reference" collection is made
of their classic resistant tarpaulin (truck covers),
but has a premium appeal
02 Marithé + François Girbaud neoprene shoes
03 MoovBoot “Wonderland" turns a practical
­necessity like rain boots into a style item
04 Brooks saddles demonstrate how bikes
­increasingly become fashion accessories and
­complete the urban nomads’ look
05 Puma’s Urban Mobility collection for SS 2011
by Hussein Chalayan explores “that fine boundary
between fashion and technology"
06 Scholl’s philosophy: “technology becomes style"
07 Glued seams seen at Adidas Originals boots
­promise protection on rainy days
Fashion Trend Report
9
Eco Chic
02
03
04
01 G-Star RAW Recycled Denim collection SS 2011 02 Denim „reborn“: G-Star presents
its sustainable friendly denim collection in an incubator 03 Marithé + François Girbaud
­Wattwash jeans 04 Denim producer Orta Anadolu presents its work in an exhibition
showing their production processes 05 Inspired by nature: men shoes made of cork from
01
Opening Ceremony seen at Seek/Premium
Eco Chic
Growing knowledge about products and their produc­
tion processes is changing consumption behaviour.
­Nutrition as well as the fashion industry are crucial
factors in the development of a “green way of life”. Con­
sumers have become more sensitive and attentive.
“What is good for me and my environment?” is the key
question when purchasing products. What matters
though, is that the sense of responsibility is combined
with fun and aesthetics.
Fashion brands address this issue in various
ways. Although Eco Fashion was no explicitly featured
topic at Bread & Butter, the trade show nevertheless
presented some exciting approaches.
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Fashion Trend Report
Already in January, French jeans manufacturer
Marithé + François Girbaud, known as the inventor
of the stone-wash jeans, surprised the market with an
innovative manufacturing process. According to the
French, “there is still time to invent a new tomorrow”.
Stone-wash turns into Wattwash – the popular jeans
look is created by using light and laser techno­logy in­
stead of water and stones. The result: the jeans are
produced under almost water-free con­ditions (97.5 %).
Company owner François Girbaud thinks of
these jeans as a statement reflecting social change
and our changing needs. We will not buy fewer goods,
but will become more aware of what we buy. Cus­
tomers want to know where a product comes from and
under which conditions it has been produced. This
transparency will become essential in the future. Re­
source-conserving production that combines style
with eco-friendly criteria meets the demands of the
con­sumers, as Trendbüro has documented before in
a study about the “future of ethical consumption”
for Otto Group. Nudie Jeans from Sweden also re­
commends saving water, albeit for different reasons.
To achieve the ideal “fit and look”, their jeans should be
washed for the first time not until after six months of
wearing them.
Resource-conserving production is also an
­issue for Turkish denim producer Orta Anadolu. The
method is called up-cycling where cast-off jeans are
made into new high-quality yarn. Orta supplies denim
brands such as Levis, Mavi and Diesel, among others.
All good things come in threes, G-Star Raw
thought and offers three different types of denim that
come with the promise of a reduced environmental
footprint: Raw Organic, Raw Nettle (blended denims)
and Raw Recycled (“give a second life to the original
material”). These examples show that ecological
­f ashion no longer has anything in common with its
dusty image of the past. Just on the contrary, as it
­offers true potential for innovation.
05
Fashion Trend Report
11
Kidults
01
02
03
05
06
07
01 Diesel jeans collection Summer 2011 in candy
colours 02 Adidas Originals Teddy Bear
Sneaker by Jeremy Scott 03 Donut necklaces
by French jewelry designer Calourette 04 Coloud
headphones for Hello Kitty, Marvel and Star Wars
fans 05 Pretty Ballerina give women the feeling
of being a princess 06 By Larin´s playful way
of individualizing shoes 04/08 Paul Frank House
at the B&B 09 T-shirts by 5Preview
Kidults
Today, the differences between young and old are be­
coming more and more blurred as does the line of sepa­
ration between leisure and working time. The demands
on each individual are increasing and in a world that is
becoming more and more complex people are looking
for time-outs that provide relief from the pressure in
everyday life. The existing concept of growing up is no
longer appealing.
The pressure to succeed in our achievementoriented society asks for an outlet that the Kidults
have managed to find. The age group of the 20 to
40-year-olds actively holds on to the “kid inside”
and, at the same time, lives their lives successfully
12
Fashion Trend Report
04
08
with both feet firmly on the ground. What in the past
used to be derogatively called “childish” is now a­
societal phenomenon of considerable extent. Reju­
venation is symbolically taking place through those
products which the Kidults had seemed to have out­
grown long ago.
What has started a few years ago in fashion with
ballerina shoes like those by Pretty Ballerina, has,
in the meantime, also conquered other areas of
­f ashion. Sneakers become cute by adding glitter bows
or even turn into something cuddly, like Jeremy Scott
has carried it to extremes with his teddy bear sneakers
for Adidas Originals. Super heroes such as “Wonder
Woman” at Converse or Sponge Bob, Star Wars and
Marvel comic heroes used for Coloud headphones are
09
expressions of a growing desire for insou­ciance and
relief. Ice cream and candy coloured fashion items
as to be found in the Levis’ California Dreaming
­C ollection, among others, promise the relaxed fee­
ling of summer holidays. Playing and not complying
with the rules – as expressed by the t-shirt brand
5Preview that became popular through My­S pace.
Well-known (luxury) brand logos are taken apart and
recombined in a new way.
Paul Frank’s success shows that the bounda­
ries between young and old are indeed breaking down.
The brand’s fun factor can be noticed in the Paul Frank
House at Bread & Butter – from baby dummies, prams
and bed linen to iPhone cases, dog leads or spectacle
frames. Kidults never get enough variety. With a large
number of magnetic ­accessory clips Madrid-based By
Larin Shoes playfully provides numerous options for
changing the look of a single pair of shoes every day.
Fashion Trend Report
13
Co­lla
boration
02
03
01
04
Collaboration
These days, the desire to express one’s personality
does not end with fashion. Within the meaning of the
individual overall concept, design is being transferred
to all aspects of life. A blend of areas that used to
be separated such as music, technology, interiors
and ­architecture is also proof of an aestheticisation
of ­everyday life. Meanwhile, cooperations between
brands or major couture houses and designers or
­artists are common practice in order to draw attention
to oneself. As a consequence, those projects that are
not entirely focussed on sheer name-dropping, but
create synergies that will boost the creative output,
are ­r a­ther exciting.
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Fashion Trend Report
If all partners effectively use and combine their
strengths, the results can be very successful, as de­
monstrated by the cooperation between Onitsuka
­T iger and Design Kollektiv KoiKlub which serves
as a platform for bringing different de­signers together.
The young bags and clothes label Airbag Craftworks has designed a model of their Chicago bags
that matches the colours of the sneakers and the
fashion label A.D. Deertz, based in Berlin, has de­
signed a matching t-shirt. The shoelaces made of vin­
tage kimono fabrics come from Zillion in Japan.
As part of their “Nexus Project”, instead of co­
operating with designers, the shoe brand Sebago
works together with the visionary and style activist
Ronnie Fieg. Five lifestyle bloggers designed two shoe
05
models each, matching their per­sonal “style ethos”,
and documented the project by working with members
of the online community. ­S ebago combines creation
and marke­ting in a very smart way, without using any
classic advertising. This way, they perfectly adapt to
the demands of the consumers of the networking so­
ciety. The focus no longer lies entirely on the finished
pro­duct, but also on the communication with the con­
sumer through the blogosphere. Sebago reaches their
customers where they spend most of their time now
as well as through communication channels that are
familiar to them.
01 Canadian footwear meets french
concept store: Sorel’s Caribou Shoe especially
­designed for Colette
02 Airbag Craftworks designed
a special bag fitting the new Onitsuka Tiger
Koi Koi sneakers
03 Amy Winehouse designed
a 50s-inspired ­collection for Fred Perry
for Fall 2010
04 Sebagos collaboration with Ronnie Fieg
and five bloggers, who created 10 different shoe
models within the Nexus project
05 After collaborating with Diesel, Adidas decided
to launch their own Denim collection
Fashion Trend Report
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Artiness
03
04
01 The Diesel Paintball Jeans comes
with paint splatters 02 The Anita
­Moser Ballerinas are dipped into a colour
bath 03 The ODP ­instant shirt is a
01
­convenient way of ­colouring your shirt
in the washing ­machine 04 Swarovski
elements add a glamour to any kind
of thing – from the coffee ­machine to
flip flops 05 Upgrade your picnic
with the Naked & ­Famous denim cooler
bag 06 The Hilfiger Denim booth at
B&B ­allowed visitors to customize their
02
05
Artiness
Nowadays, the disciplines of fashion and art are mer­ging
more and more. Even beyond the catwalks, brands can
be found in the premium and street wear segment
whose inspiration comes from art or who work with sur­
prising techniques. Playing with materials and shapes
creates opportunities so that even classics may re­
appear in completely new styles. Designs that appear
artistic and sometimes even experimental meet the
never-ending desire of the consumers for indivi­duality
and distinctiveness.
Anita Moser from Switzerland, who won this
year’s Premium Young Designer Award in the category
accessories, dips leather shoes into a special kind of
16
Fashion Trend Report
own bag by colour splashing
paint, resulting in individual designs with unique colour
accents acting as a positive visual disturbing factor.
Bricolage and patchwork become a principle of using
materials like leather elements on jersey or a combina­
tion of different denim fabrics in the form of patches.
Especially denim is creatively used in various different
contexts. Dutch pram manufacturer Bugaboo uses
jeans fabrics for their model “Cameleon” and Naked &
­Famous offer a cooler bag made of selvedge denim.
But it is the shoe segment in particular which shows
that denim definitely can be worn “from head to toe”
next summer. Other recurring elements are colour gra­
dients and the batik look.
The idea of individualisation becomes a driver
for what, in some cases seems to be a rather disres­
06
pect­­ful handling of high-quality materials. With ­Diesel’s
Paintball Jeans a seemingly random mishap in the
form of dashes of paint on jeans and sneakers is used
as a deliberate design principle. The consumers have a
growing need for actively partici­pating in the design
or production process. The ODP instant shirt is a
modern and clean alternative to ­batik parties: packed
in a practical plastic bag, a colour capsule attached to
the shirt will break up in the washing machine. Three
different ways of dying the fabric allow for customising
the result.
While the topic of customisation played a minor
role at the trade shows in terms of actual products,
some brands asked the audience to be­come artists or
designers themselves, at least during the trade show.
At the Hilfiger Denim booth some even discovered
their hidden kinship with Jackson Pollock while ex­
cessively colour splashing a Hilfiger bag .
Swarovski Elements’ motto of “creativity needs
possibilities“ was adopted, sparkling design material
was offered at the application workshop. Those who
wanted could decorate their own bag with the flag of
his/her favourite football team. Active participation
strengthens the identification with the brand and emo­
tional involvement. The success of NikeID or Spread­
shirt has shown that the internet provides the adequate
infrastructure to turn customers into co-creators. And
in fact, it is not only about individualisation. Letting
consumers participate in the design process allows for
identifying new demands and innovation potential.
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Fashion Trend Report
Fashion Trend Report
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Publisher
Editorial Team
Trend Büro
Hohe Brücke 1
20459 Hamburg
www.trendbuero.com
Antje Schünemann
a.schuenemann@trendbuero.com
Sabine Koppe
s.koppe@trendbuero.com
Design
Katrin Köhler-Kohlstrung
Sibylle Kammerer/Lila.