Painting the inside
of your home
• Planning
• Painting equipment
• Paints and primers
• Using and cleaning
brushes and rollers
• Preparing surfaces
• Painting your ceiling
• Painting interior walls
• Painting your trim with
enamel
• Waterproofing a shower
Paints, Arts & Crafts
Contents
Planning ......................................................................................... 2
Painting equipment ...........................................................................
3
Paints and primers ............................................................................ 10
Using and cleaning brushes and rollers ................................................. 12
Preparing the surface ........................................................................ 17
Painting your ceiling ......................................................................... 20
Painting interior walls ........................................................................ 22
Painting your trim with enamel ............................................................ 24
Waterproofing your shower ................................................................ 31
1
To get the best
results from yo
ur
painting job you
must measure
and prepare your
area and surfac
es
thoroughly.
Planning
• To find out how much paint you’ll need you must first calculate
the area to be painted. Measure the height and width of each
wall, then multiply the results together to give you its area. Do the
same for each window and door, counting any open hatches as
windows and any doorless frames or arches as doors.
• Add the areas of all the walls together and subtract the areas of
all the doors and windows. The calculation will look something like
this:
5.44 m x 2.07 m
0.9 m (h)
x 1.145 m (w)
• Ascertain the spread rate
of the paint. If it’s not printed
on the side of the tin, check
with the manufacturer. The
rate is often given as m²/ℓ.
Now divide the m² you need
to paint by the spread rate.
For instance, if the spread rate
is 9 m²/ℓ, then the example
above would need 13.76 ÷ 9
= 1.53 litres. If two coats are
required, simply multiply 1.53
by 2 (= 3.06).
2.532 m (w)
x 2.07 m (h)
2.1 m (h)
x 0.813 m (w)
Wall 5.44 m x 2.07 m = 11.2608 m²
Wall 2.532 m x 2.07 m = 5.24124 m²
Door 2.1 m x 0.813 m = 1.7073 m²
Window 0.9 m x 1.145 m = 1.0305 m²
Calculation 11.26 + 5.24 – 1.71 – 1.03 = 13.76 m²
2
• There are many online
calculators which will do the
calculations for you.
• Having bought the paint,
take time to read the directions
on the tin for the proper way
to prep and prime your walls
before painting them with that
specific paint.
Painting equipment
SANDING
need to start with a coarse grit,
whereas if you are just scuffing
the surface to paint over it,
you will need an extra fine grit
(220).
WIRE BRUSHES
What you
will need:
- Sanding block
- Wire brushes
- Scrapers
- Putty knife or filler tool
- Mutton cloth
- Disposable overalls
- Paint shield
- Painter’s tape
Sanding a previously painted
surface before repainting it
ensures that the new paint
or primer will bond well with
the surface and you end up
with a lasting, quality coat.
Some electric sanders are too
abrasive to use on paint so
you have to be careful not to
gouge the surface with them.
Always choose sandpaper
with the right grit for the job.
For removing old paint you will
- Polycell brush cleaner
- Paint paddle/stirrer
- Drop cloths,
plastic sheeting
- Paint pot/kettle
These are mainly used for
removing old paint and rust.
They come in all shapes and
sizes and also as attachments
for electric drills (excellent for
cleaning rusted burglar bars).
- Safety gear
- Paintbrushes
- Rollers
- Crack filler
3
DISPOSABLE
OVERALLS
SCRAPERS
Scrapers are ideal for removing
old paint, rust, putty or glue but
as they have sharp edges and
corners, mind you don’t scar the
surface with one. Before storing
a scraper, make sure it’s clean.
A quick wipe with turpentine
will do the job.
it’s easier to press filler into a
crack and scrape off the excess
afterwards. Once dry, sand the
filler smooth, paint with plaster
primer and then your topcoat.
MUTTON CLOTH
PUTTY KNIVES OR
FILLER TOOLS
Before filling a crack, knock off
any loose bits of plaster, brick
or paint and brush out any
loose material and dust. Open
up the crack if necessary. Paint
the crack with plaster primer
to ensure the filler bonds well
with it, then use a putty knife
or filler tool to press the filler
into the crack. A filler tool is
similar to a scraper but has a
more flexible blade with which
4
A pure cotton, soft and
absorbent fabric that’s ideal for
buffing, polishing, dusting and
cleaning. Some waxes and
polishes cannot be removed
by washing so it’s best to keep
separate cloths for specific
uses. Mutton cloth is good for
wiping up spills too.
These are really convenient and
can be reused, but they won’t
hold up to a wash. You can
buy just a jacket or a whole suit
that protects all your clothing
and hair. They are breathable
and lightweight with elastic
cuffs and ankles.
PAINT SHIELDS
A ready-made guard to keep
paint off an adjacent surface.
Often used when painting
window frames and skirting
boards. The shield is held
against the glass or wall to
protect it. An alternative to
masking off areas and a handy
tool that can be cleaned and
reused.
PAINTER’S TAPE
An alternative to masking tape.
Masking tape can be hard to
remove and can take some of
your new paint with it, which
means touching up. Bloc-it
painter’s tape is designed to
be easily removed and leave a
clean, crisp edge every time.
It also prevents any paint from
seeping through. Tape is an
essential item when doing paint
effects or masking between two
colours.
POLYCELL BRUSH
CLEANER
Although more expensive than
turpentine (the regular solvent
cleaner), these powerful solventbased cleaners are easily
rinsed off with water. To clean a
brush used with oil-based paint,
work a small amount through
the bristles,
then rinse with
water until the
water runs
clear. Hang
the brush (or
roller) up to
dry. Allow
dirty cleaner
to stand and
separate.
The clear top
layer can be
reused but the
sediment must
be disposed of correctly (see
page 14 ).
PAINT PADDLES/
STIRRERS
Most paint needs stirring before
use, the exception being nondrip enamel. Always read the
instructions on the tin before
stirring, then stir with a clean,
flat, smooth piece of wood with
holes drilled through it, or a
ready-made paint stirrer, which
is the reusable option. Or use a
drill attachment stirrer.
DROP CLOTHS OR
PLASTIC SHEETING
It’s important to protect your
floors, furnishings and trim
when painting. Flecks of paint
can go everywhere, even when
you are being careful. Drop
cloths are for protecting floors
from drips and spills and are
positioned right up against the
walls or under the ceiling being
painted. Plastic sheeting is
slippery so it’s not that good
to use under a ladder or
underfoot, but it is handy for
wrapping around furniture,
taping over doorways and
taping to skirting boards to
save you lots of cleaning up
afterwards.
PAINT PAILS/
KETTLES
It’s always advisable to decant
paint into another container
rather than use it straight from
the tin. This ensures that any
bristles that fall out of your
brush and any dirt that it picks
up won’t contaminate the
entire tin. A ready-made paint
pot is recommended. Spare
paint pots come with magnetic
brush holders that save you
from damaging your brushes
by standing them in the paint,
disposable liners which make
cleaning them much easier, and
Velcro straps for attaching them
to your ladder.
SAFETY GEAR
• Safety glasses
• Latex gloves (especially
with solvent-based paints)
• Short scarf or cap (to cover
your hair)
• Overalls
5
PAINTBRUSHES
Always have a project in mind when choosing a paintbrush as it
will help you pick the best one for the job. If you are stocking your
workshop, choose quality brushes as they will last you a lifetime.
Paintbrushes can be used with all types of paint as well as with
lacquers, varnishes and oils. In addition to painting, varnishing
or sealing whole objects, such as doors, walls, furniture and toys,
they can be used for cutting in (painting the edges, corners or trim)
when you roller a wall. It is possible to paint a wall itself with a
brush, but this is uncommon as rollers do the job much better.
QUALITY
VS
• Quality brushes improve with use
as their loose bristles are lost and the
tips become rounded, enhancing
paint pick up and release.
• You also won’t have to load the
brush with paint so often as quality
brushes have a high loading
capacity.
CHEAP BRUSHES
• Cheap brushes are acceptable
when you’re buying an all-rounder
brush to use only a few times, but
they tend to drop their bristles
into your paint and onto your newly
painted surface, and they don’t
spread the paint evenly.
• If the ferrule (the metal binder
between the handle and bristles) is
made of stainless steel, it won’t ever
rust.
• They also have fewer bristles for their
width, which affects their paintloading capacity, and the bristles
are often anchored with an adhesive
which deteriorates with use, which
means you lose bristles every time.
• Quality brushes also hold their shape
and form over long periods, but you
do need to clean, look after and
store them correctly.
• Projects where cheap brushes
are needed include applying wood
preservatives to rough timber or for
removing dust after sanding.
WHAT SIZE BRUSHES TO CHOOSE
6
< 25 mm
Small jobs, touch up work on toys, chairs, interior trim
38 mm
Furniture, small panels, window frames, downpipes
50 mm
Small to medium-sized projects, including doors, table tops, cabinets, gutters
75 mm
Medium to large projects, including floorboards, skirting, fence posts,
cupboards, outdoor furniture
100 mm <
Large flat areas such as walls, floors, ceilings, roofs
CUTTING IN BRUSH
NATURAL BRISTLE BRUSHES
STORAGE
Store brushes by hanging
them, lying them flat or
propping them upside down
in a jar. The bristles need to
be protected, so never store
brushes with pressure on the
tips or sides of the bristles.
These are narrow and angled
so as to give a smooth line.
They are used for painting
around fixtures and areas
where a roller or larger brush
would be unweildy. Quality
cutting in brushes have a
convex chisel shape to
produce smooth even lines.
Natural bristle brushes are
often used with varnishes, oils,
fibreglass, glues and resins.
Ones with unpainted wooden
handles are meant for resins
and solvents that would dissolve
any paint on the handles.
Natural bristle brushes are the
best for oil-based paints (but
not latex paints, which need
synthetic bristles).
If a paint requires a
particular type of brush
or roller, it will say so
on the tin.
7
FOAM ROLLERS
ROLLERS
Ideal for covering large areas such as walls, doors and ceilings
quickly and smoothly. Foam rubber or mohair rollers are best for
smooth surfaces while lamb’s wool or nylon pile rollers are best for
textured ones. Rollers are always used with a roller tray.
ROLLER TRAY
splatter and are virtually lint-free.
Mohair rollers are also suitable
for solvent-based enamel paints,
unlike most rollers.
These are general purpose
rollers, used for smooth and
lightly textured surfaces, but
they do not give a high-quality
finish. Some can be used for
paint effects.
MINI FOAM ROLLERS
LAMBSWOOL ROLLERS
Holds the paint for loading
rollers. Some new trays are
designed to be used on a
ladder (vertical) and you can
also get deeper ones to use
with thicker rollers.
SHEEPSKIN ROLLERS
Wool has good paint pick up
and release, which means less
splatter and a long lifespan. It
is also suitable for varnishes,
enamels and other solventbased products.
SYNTHETIC ROLLERS
Suitable for all types of paint
and for covering small to
medium areas. Handy for spots
where normal rollers can’t fit
(behind pipes etc).
STORAGE
Professionals tend to use these
as they hold more paint and
are easier to work with - less
splatter and fewer fibres shed.
MOHAIR ROLLERS
These have a fine nap and
give a quality finish on smooth
surfaces. They produce less
8
There are thick-nap synthetic
rollers for rough and textured
walls, and fine-nap rollers
for smoother surfaces. They
are often the most costeffective rollers. You also get
combination rollers with a mix
of natural and synthetic fibres.
Hang up rollers when not in use
to prevent the pile from being
flattened, but ensure they don’t
lean against a wall or other flat
surface.
EXTENSION POLE
Extension poles enable you to paint ceilings and the tops of walls
without using a ladder or scaffolding. Most rollers have hollow
handles into which you can screw one. They also speed up
painting as you don’t have to keep climbing up and down the
ladder to reload your roller or move the ladder when painting a
ceiling.
PAINTING VOCABULARY
A few painting terms you might like to know
BLISTERING
BUBBLES
hot day), or the paint was
stretched too far during
application.
EXTREME CRACKING
The name for the bubbles
that sometimes form while
paint is drying. They can
be caused by moisture in
the wood, adding a second
coat before the first has
dried properly, or applying
paint to a surface that’s too
hot or greasy.
Refers to the bubbles in
newly applied paint. Can be
caused by excessive rolling
or vigorous mixing which
resulted in trapped air.
CHALKING
The formation of powder
on a top layer of paint.
Often caused by the paint
breaking down through
weathering.
Also called crocodiling.
Could be because the
undercoat is incomparable
with the topcoat or because
the topcoat was applied
before the previous coat
had dried completely, or
because of loss of paint
elasticity due to extreme
temperature fluctuations.
CRACKING OR FLAKING
MUD CRACKS
When a newly painted
surface cracks, either the
surface was incorrectly
prepared, the paint dried
too fast (e.g. on a very
Deep irregular cracks that
appear in paint that was
applied too thickly or when
there are coats of different
thicknesses.
BLUSHING
When lacquer dries cloudy
instead of clear. Caused
by moisture in the lacquer
as a result of the solvent
evaporating too quickly.
9
Fired Earth A
ll-in-One
is a combined
plaster
primer, seale
r and
undercoat, w
hich
means you on
ly have
to apply one
coat of
it and nothing
else
before your
topcoat.
Paints and primers
TYPES OF PAINT
ACRYLIC
Fast-drying, water-based
paints that can be used on
most surfaces over a suitable
primer. Commonly used for
large areas, such as walls and
ceilings. The gloss versions are
never as glossy as their enamel
equivalents. Acrylics are often
chosen because they are easy
to work with, can be cleaned
off brushes etc with water, and
are quick drying.
10
ENAMEL
Oil-based paints, generally
reserved for timber and
metalwork such as doors,
architraves, window frames
and burglar bars. Produce a
tough, glossy finish that’s easy
to clean and great for areas
which sustain small knocks,
such as doorways. However,
enamels take longer to dry
between coats (often overnight),
and it’s harder to clean the
brushes and rollers because you
need a solvent.
UNDERCOAT
Prepares the surface for the
topcoat. Designed with the
type of surface in mind. Assists
with paint adhesion, improves
topcoat coverage and ensures
a good finish. Often used
when painting a water-based
paint on top of a solvent-based
one.
PAINT FINISHES
MATT FINISH
Modo Pink to White
Ceiling Paint goes on
pink before drying white,
thereby making it easy
to see if you’ve missed a
spot during application.
No need for a primer
either, just prep, apply an
undercoat and paint on
your Pink to White.
PRIMERS
A finish that doesn’t shine.
Often used for ceilings and
irregular wall surfaces (except
in kitchens and bathrooms,
where a semi-gloss or gloss
paint is usually chosen for its
ability to withstand frequent
washing). Although not popular,
solvent-based paints with a matt
finish are occasionally found.
SATIN AND LOW SHEEN
HIGH GLOSS
Ideal for rooms with a lot of
traffic and need to be moisture,
dirt and grease resistant, such
as bathrooms and kitchens.
Gloss finishes highlight
imperfections while matt
finishes hide them. So if
painting a wall with a
shoddy plaster job, make
sure you choose matt paint.
A primer seals the surface to
be painted and binds the paint
onto it. It is one of the most vital
steps in the painting process.
Different primers are needed for
different surfaces. For interior
walls you need a plaster primer,
for wood, a wood primer,
and for metal, a metal primer.
Primers can also be used on
surfaces that defy cleaning.
BONDING LIQUID
Used on friable and highly
porous surfaces (such as raw
brick, weathered paintwork,
lime-washed walls and filled
cracks) to ensure the paint
sticks to them and doesn’t flake
after drying.
Sometimes referred to as
eggshell. Recommended for
most walls. Often easier to
clean than matt paints.
GLOSS AND SEMI-GLOSS
Generally used on windows,
doors and other woodwork
that’s susceptible to greater
wear and soiling as they are
hard-wearing and easy to
wash. But gloss finishes tend to
show brush and roller marks as
well as surface imperfections,
so preparation needs to be
thorough, with all cracks and
holes filled in and spot-primed.
The paint also needs to be
layed off (given final light brush
strokes in the direction of the
wood grain) if you want a
smooth, even finish.
With the right primer
you can give almost any
surface a new look. The
important thing is to get rid
of any sheen on the old
surface as it will prevent
paint adhesion. One way
of doing this is to dull the
surface with superfine
220-grit sandpaper.
Give your kitchen a facelift
by painting your melamine
cupboards and tiles for a
fraction of the price of an
entire revamp. It’s as easy
as clean, sand, prime and
paint.
11
The success
of your paint
job depends on
your brush and
roller...
Using and cleaning brushes
and rollers
HOW TO PAINT WITH A BRUSH
2
You can speed up paint
mixing by buying a mixer
attachment for your drill or,
if using a wooden paddle,
by drilling large holes
(20 mm or so) in it.
2 Choose the right size brush.
Grip large brushes around
the handle and hold smaller
brushes more like a pencil.
1
1 Stir the paint with a paint
paddle – except for non-drip
paint, which you mustn’t stir
at all. Mix in any liquid that’s
risen to the surface thoroughly
by lifting the stirrer as you go.
12
4
3
3 Flick the bristles against your
hand to remove any dust, old
paint and loose bristles.
4 Wet the brush and squeeze
dry (use water for water-based
paints) and turpentine for
solvent-based paints). This will
help the bristles to absorb and
release the paint better.
5
5 Dip the brush into the paint
to about one-third of the bristle
length.
8
8 When using an acrylic, apply
the paint in horizontal bands
from the top to the bottom of the
area, working the paint in all
directions as you go.
6 Press the brush against the
wall of the tin to remove surplus
paint; do not scrape it over
the rim as too much paint will
come off.
or other liquid in which you
have cleaned brushes down
the drain as it will pollute our
water. See page 14.
DEFINITION: CUTTING IN
9
9 Before reloading a brush,
7 When using an oil-based
enamel, apply three vertical
strips, leaving gaps just
narrower than the width of the
brush between them. Then,
without reloading the brush,
brush it horizontally across
the strips to work the paint
into the gaps. Then, using
the same brush but without
reloading it, apply light vertical
strokes, ending on an upstroke.
Continue with the next section
in the same manner.
11 Never throw paint, solvent
Keep toothpicks on hand to
remove any bristles that end
up in your paint. Remove,
then brush over the area.
Doing this while the paint is
still wet is the easiest way
of remedying the problem.
6
7
11
wipe it on the edge of the pot
to remove any paint that has
worked its way up the bristles
and handle.
The term for painting the
edges of a wall next to doors,
ceilings, fixtures or a different
colour -- all the spots that are
hard to paint properly with a
roller. You can use a normal
paintbrush for this or an angled
brush, but there are also
ready-made cutting in brushes
designed to produce clean,
smooth lines.
Green hint
10
10 When finished, clean your
Never allow the water
in which you are
cleaning brushes or
rollers to run down the
drain. This is harmful,
pollutes our water and
is often illegal. See
page 14.
brush immediately.
13
HOW TO CLEAN A BRUSH
AFTER PAINTING WITH
ACRYLIC
1
2
3
Gently scrape excess
paint from the brush onto
cardboard or absorbent
paper. Using the back of
a putty knife, work from
the heel (the base of the
bristles) to the tip.
HOW TO CLEAN A BRUSH
AFTER PAINTING WITH
ENAMEL (SOLVENT BASED)
1
Gently scrape excess
paint from the brush onto
cardboard or absorbent
paper. Use the back of a
putty knife and work from
the base of the bristles to
the tip.
Wash water-based paint
out of the brush under
a running tap over a
bucket. Rub a little soap or
washing-up liquid into the
bristles and rinse in clean
water.
Shake brushes vigorously
outdoors to get rid of
excess water.
4
Let the brush air dry
completely.
5
Slip a loose rubber band
over the tip of the bristles
to hold them together and
to keep the brush in shape
for future use. Alternatively,
wind some old newspaper
or paper around the damp
brush a couple to times and
leave to dry - the newspaper
will keep the bristles aligned
while in storage.
2
Work a small amount of
Polycell Brush Cleaner
through the bristles in an
old tin or glass jar.
3
Rinse the brush with water
until the water runs clean.
4
All the brushes benefit from
a final wash in soap and
a rinse in clean water, but
it’s not strictly necessary.
5
Shake brushes vigorously
to get rid of any remaining
cleaner. It’s best to do
this in an old paint tin or
bucket as brush cleaners
are not good for the
environment or plants.
6
Let the brush air dry
completely.
7
Slip a loose rubber band
over the tip of the bristles
to hold them together and
keep the brush in shape
for future use. Alternatively,
wind some old newspaper
or paper around the
damp brush a couple of
times and leave to dry the newspaper will keep
the bristles aligned while
in storage.
DISPOSING OF THE CLEANING WATER
DISPOSING OF THE CLEANING SOLVENT
This is the correct way to minimise the
impact on our planet and its valuable water
resources.
If you have a container of dirty Polycell brush
cleaner or turpentine, here’s how to get rid of
it without harming the environment.
NB: It’s illegal in most municipalities to throw
this solvent down a drain.
• Let the paint settle in the bucket.
Overnight is best.
• Pour the clear water down the drain.
• Scrape the paint sediment into old
newspaper and add to your domestic
rubbish.
• Never throw paint or liquid in which you
have cleaned brushes down a drain.
14
• Allow the paint to separate from the solvent
in a closed container. This might take a few
days.
• Pour off the clear top layer of solvent for
reuse and seal in a clean, airtight container.
• Leave the remainder to dry out in an old tin
or jar, then add to your domestic rubbish.
HOW TO PAINT WITH A ROLLER
5
1
1 Thoroughly stir the paint with
a flat paint paddle.
3
3 Wet the roller and squeeze
dry (use water for water-based
paints and turpentine for
solvent-based paints). This will
help the pile to absorb and
release the paint.
5 Dip the roller into the paint
and then run it lightly on the
ridged part of the tray. This will
spread the paint evenly on the
roller.
Line your paint tray with
aluminium foil or cling
wrap so you don’t have to
clean it when finished. Just
throw away the liner.
6
6 When painting a wall, place
2
2 Use a brush to cut in the
edges around the doors,
windows, skirting, interior
corners and where walls meet
the ceilings or a cornice.
4
4 Fill about one-third of a roller
tray with paint. Do not overfill
or it will spill.
the roller in the middle of a
run (strip of wall about a metre
wide) and work it up to the
ceiling and then down towards
the floor in a W pattern. This
will distribute the paint. Then,
without reloading the roller,
work it horizontally across the
area to fill in the gaps.
15
HOW TO CLEAN A ROLLER
1
Scrape as much paint as
possible from the roller
back into the paint tray
using a paint stirrer.
7
7 Do not stretch the paint out.
When it starts to run out reload
the roller and continue applying
in a W pattern.
2
Run the roller over the
ribbed part of the tray
and then over sheets of
newspaper to remove
excess paint.
3
Remove the roller from the
handle, if possible. For
water-based paint, wash
under running water (over
a bucket), working the
paint out with your hands
(wearing latex gloves).
More than one bucket
might be necessary.
Continue until all the paint
has been washed out.
8
8 Overlap strokes while paint is
4
For solvent-based paint,
work a small amount of
Polycell brush cleaner
through the roller pile,
then rinse over a bucket
until the water coming off
is no longer milky.
5
Shake roller vigorously
outdoors.
6
Air dry before storing.
7
Store by hanging so you
don’t damage the nap.
8
Never throw paint
residue down the drain.
(See page 14 for
disposal).
wet for a smoother finish. End
each section with a light roll to
even out any lines left by the
roller.
9
9 Clean roller immediately after
use.
16
Drill small (±2.5 mm) holes
in the groove around
the rim of the paint tin to
allow any paint in it to
drain back after decanting
into a roller tray. As paint
doesn’t store well in a tin
that’s no longer airtight,
do this only if you intend
using all the paint.
Green hint
Large amounts of
turpentine are needed to
clean brushes and rollers
properly. However if you
choose a brush cleaner like
Polycell, only a small amount is
needed; the last bit of washing
happens with water. So brush
cleaners are a greener
option than turpentine.
Never leave brushes or
rollers to soak in water or
solvent as it will damage
the integrity of the bristles
or pile.
Preparing the surface
HOW TO PREPARE THE SURFACES
1
Remove all door locks and
other fittings.
2
Check for damp (see
page 19) and remove
the cause. Wait for about
a month for the wall to
dry out completely before
painting.
3
4
To remove any mildew,
clean with a solution of
water, bleach and a mild
ammonia-free detergent.
Wash walls and
mouldings down
thoroughly with warm
water and sugar soap
(clean walls require 20%
less paint). Make sure
you rinse off the sugar
soap properly (use rubber
gloves to protect your
hands from this alkaline
product). Clean around
electrical outlets and
switches with a damp
cloth and sugar soap.
Make sure no water gets
onto your electrical fitings;
‘rinse’ by wiping with a
clean damp cloth.
5
Remove any loose or
peeling paint with a
scaper and feather the
edges with sandpaper. Try
not to gouge the surface
with the scraper as you
will have to go back and
fill in the marks.
What you
will need:
- Canvas drop cloths
- Plastic drop cloths
- Detergent/sugar soap
and warm water
- Clean rags and sponges
- Bloc-it painter’s
tape
- Paint scraper
SAFETY GEAR
• Dust mask
• Safety
glasses
• Rubber
gloves
• Overalls
- Spatula and filling
compound
- Hammer (if needed)
- Sandpaper, sanding
block
- Plaster primer
- Paint tin opener (or
screwdriver)
- Paint stirrer/paddle
17
6
Apply filler to any large
uneven areas or gashes
in the old paint. Do the
same with nail holes and
cracks. Level the areas
you have filled and, once
dry, sand smooth. (Refer
to the Cracks section).
7
Sand walls lightly,
including the corners, to
smooth out any lumps
and bumps with fine-grit
sandpaper.
After sanding, be sure to
brush and vacuum away
the dust. Surfaces must
be free of all dirt, crayon
(wax) and grease (try
washing or, alternatively,
sanding these away) as
they could bleed through
the paint if left.
8
9
Tape over light switches
and plug points (or, better
yet, remove the cover
plates).
10
Mask all doors, windows
and skirting boards with
painter’s tape so no paint
gets on them, then cut in
up to them.
11
Spot-prime any newly
patched areas on the
walls. Ask a Builders
to help you choose the
right primer for your
preparation coat.
12
Apply an undercoat
followed by your topcoat.
Start at the floor and move
towards the ceiling when
cleaning a wall with sugar
soap. The grimiest part is
usually near the ceiling so
cleaning it last means you
won’t drag the dirt across the
rest of the wall.
18
CRACKS
All cracks should be opened
up and filled before painting.
4
4 Sand flush with the wall.
1
1 Sand around the crack and
open it up with a scraping
knife. Vacuum all the dust out or
use a clean wet rag to pick it
up. Allow to dry.
2
2 Apply a coat of plaster primer
and allow to dry.
3
3 Mix filler and fill the crack
with it using an X pattern.
Allow to dry.
5
5 Paint with plaster primer to
ensure your undercoat or
topcoat adhere well.
Use a 100 mm paintbrush or
an old dustpan brush dipped
in warm water and sugar
soap to wash a textured wall
in preparation for painting.
Rinse well to neutralise the
soap.
Write down the name of
the paint (its colour), the
manufacturer and batch
number with a permanent
marker on the inside of the
light switch cover. Should
you repaint, you will then be
able to match it closely, if not
exactly.
THE DAMP ISSUE
Three types of damp problems occur with walls; rising damp,
penetrating damp and condensation.
RISING DAMP
leaking shower seeps through to
the ceiling of the room below,
or when water from a leaking
gutter runs down a wall. Damp
patches then occur on the wall
or ceiling and attract mildew.
CONDENSATION
Caused when groundwater
moves up through the brickwork
and affects the plaster and
paint. When soil lies up against
a wall, water can also seep
through the bricks sideways.
This is usually noticeable as
brown stains where the wall
and floor join. Other signs that
you have rising damp are soft,
crumbly plaster and peeling
paint.
PENETRATING DAMP
The moisture in humid air can
condense on wall surfaces.
Where this is ongoing it
encourages mould to grow
on and stain the surface. The
problem, which often affects
bathrooms, can be cured with
proper ventilation.
SOLVING IT
When water drips constantly
onto a painted surface,
the paint weathers faster
than normal and can allow
the water to penetrate the
underlying surface. Examples
of this are when water from a
The solution to damp problems
is to remove the cause. Begin
by identifying the cause.
Whether it’s a leaking gutter,
air conditioner outlet, geyser
overflow or soil against
bricks, you have to fix it.
Air conditioner outlets and
geyser overflows can be
routed further away through
tubing or piping, gutters can
be fixed and showers can be
waterproofed. If the problem
is a wall with soil against it,
consider stepping the soil
back permanently, or exposing
the wall and waterproofing it
properly before replacing the
soil. Rising damp might require
more drastic action, such as
routing groundwater away
from foundations. In such cases
you’ll need to consult a damp/
waterproofing specialist.
Before repainting a wall that
had damp issues you must
take steps to prevent any
moisture still trapped in the
bricks from affecting your new
paintwork. Scrape or sand
the wall back to the plaster
and wash with sugar soap.
Repair any cracks in the plaster
with Tite waterproof crack
filler, then apply three coats of
thinned Dampseal, as per the
instructions. Sand the surface
smooth and paint with plaster
primer and an undercoat
before finishing with a topcoat.
19
Painting your ceiling
When painting an entire room, first paint the ceiling, then the walls
and lastly the woodwork and trim. Any splashes and splatters will
then land on areas still to be painted.
1 PERSON
1
3
SKILL
6 HOURS
HOW TO PAINT YOUR CEILING
What you
will need:
- Drop cloth and
plastic sheeting
- Paint stirrer
- Modo Pink to White
Ceiling Paint
- Cutting in
1
1 Prep by washing and rinsing
the surface to get rid of any
grease. Scrape off any flaking
paint, fill in any cracks and
sand down any lumps and
bumps.
20
brush (50 mm)
SAFETY GEAR
•
•
•
•
Safety glasses
Cap to protect hair
Overalls
Latex gloves
- Paint tray
- Roller
- Extension pole
- Ladder
5
2
2 If you have cornices, they will
need to be cut in completely as
your roller will not be able to
adequately paint them. Extend
the cut-in about 100 mm onto
the ceiling.
3
3 If you don’t have cornices,
then cut in where the ceiling
and walls meet, extending the
paint about 100 mm onto both
the walls and ceiling to ensure
no gaps will be left after you’ve
painted the walls.
4
4 Using an extension pole, roller on a thin coat of Modo Pink
to White Ceiling Paint. It will show up any spots you’ve missed
as the paint goes on pink before drying to white. A thin coat
will ensure there are no drips and runs. Work from one side of
the ceiling to the otther, moving backwards to avoid too many
splatters landing on the area you’ve already painted.
5
5 Let the paint dry completely. Cut in cornices/corners again and
apply a second coat to the ceiling. This is where Modo Pink to
White is invaluable as the second coat will be going pink onto an
already-white surface.
21
Painting interior walls
HOW TO PAINT YOUR INTERIOR WALLS
1 PERSON
What you
will need:
3
1
SKILL
6 HOURS
5
- Paint stirrer (drill
attachment or flat
wooden paddle)
- Paintbrush and pail
- Small touch-up
paintbrush
Tint your undercoat to
a lighter shade of the
topcoat you intend using
as it will ensure better
coverage and colour
intensity.
1
1 Prep your wall (clean, mask,
fill, sand and prime).
22
SAFETY GEAR
•
•
•
•
Dust mask
Safety glasses
Rubber gloves
Overalls
- Paint roller
and tray
- Undercoat
- Interior paint Fired Earth
Ultimate
- Ladder and
extension pole
- Bucket for cleaning
- Painter’s tape
4
Fix a dry paint drip by
sanding it smooth, wiping
it with a damp cloth and
touching up.
4 Roller your wall from right to
2
left (the reverse if you are left
handed) as you are less likely
to accidentally touch and mess
up an area you’ve already
painted with your hand or
elbow.
2 Cut in and roller on your
undercoat.
5
5 Allow each coat to dry
before applying another coat.
Two coats should be sufficient
for a good finish, but if you’re
painting a light colour over
a dark one, more might be
necessary.
7
7 Remove masking. If the paint
starts to lift, lightly score along
the edge of the tape before
continuing. Touch up where
paint was pulled off.
3
3 Using a paintbrush, cut in the
door and window frames, any
fittings, skirting and the ceiling
with your topcoat. Wrap the
brush in clingwrap to prevent it
from drying out before the next
cutting-in session.
6
6 Shine a strong light onto the
wall to show up any missed or
light spots.
Insert the handle of your
roller through a tinfoil or
paper plate to stop paint
dripping and flicking onto
your head when painting
above it.
23
Trim refers to
windows and
window frames
,
doors and door
frames, skirting
boards and deck
rails.
Painting your trim with enamel
Traditionally, woodwork in the home is painted with enamel
because of its glossy finish and ability to withstand knocks. The
end choice of colour and type of paint always lies with you.
What you
will need:
PAINTING A WINDOW
- Drop cloth
Because windows have many surfaces and extra effort is required
to keep the glass clean, painting a window takes longer than you
think. As you’ll probably want to close your windows at night for
security reasons, start work as early in the day as possible.
HOW TO
1 PERSON
1
3
SKILL
7 HOURS
5
- Bucket, sponge
and sugar soap
- Screwdriver
- 38 mm cutting in
brush
- Paint shield
- Bloc-it painter s tape
- Sanding block
SAFETY GEAR
- Fine-grit sandpaper
- Steel wool
- Mineral turpentine
- Primer (if necessary)
1
1 Lay down a drop cloth to
protect your floor.
24
• Safety glasses
• Latex gloves
• Dust mask for sanding
- Modo enamel paint
- Polycell brush cleaner
2
2 Prep your windows and
frames by washing them with
sugar soap. Rinse well and let
dry.
5
6 Apply primer or stain sealer
where necessary to any bare
wood.
7
7 A 38 mm trim or cutting in
brush is a good choice. If you
have wider or thinner surfaces,
then choose a different size. A
cutting in brush with an angled
edge will be best for painting
the parts closest to the glass.
3
3 Use a scraper or sandpaper
to remove any loose paint.
6
6 Don’t stir the paint as this
4
4 Remove any fittings and fill
any holes with wood filler.
will break down the non-drip
compound. If the paint has
separated, then stir it very
slowly and stop as soon as it’s
mixed well.
8
8 If you have casement
windows, open them halfway,
mask the glass with tape and
mask off the walls around the
window.
25
9
9 Paint in the following order:
1 cross-bars and rebates
(where the glass meets the
wood);
2 top and bottom cross-rails;
3 hanging stile and hinge
edge;
4 meeting stile;
5 frame
10
10 Work from the glass
outwards.
12
12 Paint the architraves and the
window frame.
13
13 Prep for a second coat
(optional) by sanding the first
lightly. Dust off or vaccum and
apply the second coat the
same way as the first.
11
The brush strokes should follow
the pattern of the joinery - so
make your vertical strokes cut
off the horizontal ones.
26
11 Do not apply too much paint
in one coat as it will run and
take longer to dry.
You can close windows
when the paint is dry to
the touch by rubbing talc
on the meeting surfaces
or putting cling wrap on
areas likely to stick.
PROTECTING THE GLASS
You can use painter’s tape, petroleum jelly or lip balm to
protect window glass from paint. Or use a ready-made
masking shield, held in place as you paint. Leave a 2 mm
gap between the frame and mask/shield to allow a tiny
bit of paint onto the glass. This will seal the frame and is a
great trick for external windows as it makes both the paint
and frames last longer.
If your technique with a cutting in brush (an angled brush
designed to give good clean edge if you have a steady
hand) is good, then you might not have to protect the glass
at all. The trick is not to overload the brush with paint and
to ease it towards the glass.
14
14 Remove the painter’s tape
and scrape off any excess
paint with a scraper.
15
15 When paint is dry, reattach
the fittings.
The parts of window frames
right next to the glass can
suffer from mould. Use a
fungicide wash or bleach
(diluted 1:3 with water)
to get rid of the problem.
Always wear gloves and
safety glasses with these
products.
16
16 If a window sticks at all,
sand where it’s sticking lightly
until it closes easily.
Remove drips on metal (if
you left your fittings on)
with steel wool dipped
in mineral turpentine.
Alternatively, remove
fittings, put each in a
plastic bag, reattach and
pull the bags tight. Paint
right up to the plastic
and when dry, remove
fittings, discard bags and
reattach fittings.
27
PAINTING A DOOR
Prepare door, doorframe and architrave at the same time. Wash to remove grease (sugar soap is
excellent but must be rinsed off well afterwards). Fill any cracks or nicks with filler, sand level when
dry and prime with bonding liquid. Sand the sheen off the surfaces with 220-grit sandpaper to ensure
the new paint bonds well with them.
Remove any handles and other fittings. Jam the door between two
doorstops to prevent it from closing and trapping you inside.
Always decant oil-based
paint before use, resealing
the tin to prevent what’s
left in it from drying out
and debris from dropping
into it.
HOW TO
1 PERSON
3
1
SKILL
7 HOURS
What you
will need:
- Modo enamel paint
- Paintbrush
and pail
- Sanding block
1
1 Start with the door (always leave the frame till last), working
from top to bottom and left to right (if you are right-handed). It will
feel easier this way and you shouldn’t get as much paint on your
elbow. Paint the door all in one go or it will show where you took
breaks. Paint small sections at a time, blending them well into one
another. Remember to paint the top and bottom of the door - this is
often forgotten.
28
- Fine sandpaper
- Painter’s tape
- Polycell brush
cleaner
- Plastic sheeting
5
4
2
2 Load the brush, dipping the bristles about 1/3 of their way into
the paint. Paint three vertical strokes next to each other, leaving a
gap between them just narrower than the brush width.
4 When the brush is almost dry,
go over the section lightly with
vertical strokes, stopping on
an upward stroke (this is called
laying off and will give the
work a quality look).
5
3
3 Without reloading the brush, work across the strips to fill in the
gaps and smooth the paint.
5 Paint the next section to the
side of the first, working the
new paint into the previous
section. Go right across the
door before moving down, but
make sure the paint you are
working the new section into is
still wet, otherwise the door will
be spoilt by a dry paint line.
29
PAINTING SKIRTING
PAINTING A PANELLED DOOR
2
1 Paint inside
panels first
Cross-bars and
centre struts
moving down
When painting skirting
above a fitted carpet, make
sure you don’t load too
much paint onto the brush,
then start from the top and
move slowly down. This
will reduce the chance of
drips getting on the carpet.
3 Vertical
side pieces
4
Top and
bottom edges
Paint the inside panels first then the cross-bar at the top,
followed by the vertical centre strut and the middle and
bottom cross-bars. Finish with the vertical side pieces.
The order for the frame (not shown) is top cross-bar and
then the two side pieces. Check for drips and runs and
brush them out before the paint dries.
30
Paint your skirting last. First,
vacuum the floor well so
your paintbrush won’t pick
up any dirt or fluff from it.
Next, mask the floor, or use
a paint shield as you go,
to protect your flooring or
carpet.
To paint or seal the bottom
edge of a door (without taking
it off its hinges), use a strip of
carpet as a paintbrush. Slip a
sheet of newspaper under the
door, apply paint or sealant
to the pile of the carpet, slide
it under the door and work it
back and forth to coat the bare
wood.
Waterproofing a shower
Sika Cemflex is designed for waterproofing showers, balconies,
retaining walls and fish ponds. You add cement and water to it to
create a waterproofing slurry and then use it in conjunction with a
membrane.
HOW TO
1 PERSON
1
3
5
SKILL
8 HOURS
SAFETY GEAR
• Safety glasses
• Gloves
What you
will need:
2
1
1 Remove old coating and
prep wall as for painting. It is
important to remove all dirt, oil,
grease and flaking, bubbling or
lifting paint to create a clean,
sound surface.
2 Mix Cemflex with equal
quantities of water. Add the
correct amount of cement
(check the table provided)
and mix to a lump-free slurry.
Use immediately, ensuring the
cement stays in suspension
throughout by mixing it
periodically.
- Bucket
- Block brush
- Trowel
- Black cement
(Portland slag cement)
- Silka Cemflex
- Membrane
31
3
3 Prime the surface by painting
it with a generous amount of
slurry.
5
5 Remove all creases and
bubbles before overcoating
with slurry.
6
6 Allow to dry and then apply
a final coat of slurry.
7
Clean tools immediately
with warm water.
8 Protect the area from
sunlight and wind for 24 hours
and allow 2 days for the
waterproofing to cure before
use.
TAKE NOTE
4
4 Saturate the membrane with slurry and immediately lay it onto
the surface. (Large pieces of membrane are hard to handle but
small pieces have to be overlapped, so you end up using more
membrane.)
32
Portland blast furnace
cement is not suitable as
a substitute for Portland
slag cement when
mixing Sika Cemflex.
Disclaimer
Gar
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Builders’ booklets, DVD’s and other guides are provided strictly for informational purposes only. The
information contained herein is intended to provide general information with regard to simple DIY
projects. As products, laws and regulations are continually changing, Builders takes no responsibility
for the accuracy of information contained herein or any liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of
any project. It is the responsibility of the viewer/reader to ensure compliance with all applicable laws,
rules, codes and regulations as the case may be. Safety is important, make sure to take proper safety
precautions and exercise caution when taking on any DIY project. Always read the manufacturer’s
instructions and heed their guidance for using their product. Certain products or materials may only
be available at selected Builders stores. If there is any doubt regarding any element of a DIY project
please consult a professional. Builders cannot be held liable for any loss, damage or injury that may
result out of the use of the Builders’ booklets, DVD’s and other guides. O IN
ALS
THE
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RAN