Experiencing Germany Firsthand: A guide to life abroad in Germany with specific reference to Marburg and the PhilippsUniversity By: Benjamin Ditter IntroductionStudying and living in a foreign country can be a challenging yet rewarding experience. Before going anywhere to study abroad, a lot of time, preparation and effort have to be devoted to the cause. In many ways this process and our imagination create a set of hopes and expectations for the trip that are not always met. It’s difficult to predict what you’ll encounter, because as cliché as it may sound, textbook readings often deviate from real-life experience. One of the most baffling concepts to comprehend is clearly knowing a custom of a culture and yet finding it difficult to understand once you’ve experienced it first-hand. Another might be having spent years of learning the language and finding that in the immersion experience people will question the vocabulary you use or point out that parts of grammar you utilize are unnecessarily formal or rather antiquated. Ok, so it’s easy to say expect the unexpected, but hopefully through excerpts and examples of the time I spent in Marburg, Germany, I can give you a better idea of exactly what I mean by this. There are things you should definitely know and make sure you have put together before you go. This rule sounds self-explanatory, but if you’re dealing with a very open-ended and selfdirected program (like the Wisconsin-Hessen exchange), there’s nobody to hold your hand or make sure loose ends get tied up; it’s your responsibility. If you’re traveling solo, your journey from the major airport (Frankfurt International in my case) to your final destination (small town of Marburg) could be long and confusing. Though most universities offer an orientation program before the beginning of the semester, you might find that it hasn’t fully prepared you for your university experience abroad. Many questions are left unanswered. Intensive language programs are definitely desirable, but do not expect them to make you a fluent speaker in three/four weeks. When the semester begins, remember that you’re in charge. Compared to America and American universities, German universities offer little in the way of help or guidance. They believe that you, as a competent adult, can find your own way. Though not necessarily fair to the foreign student that may have never even been abroad before, you’re in their country; therefore, when in Germany, do as the Germans do. If you’re studying abroad for a semester or a year, you’ll most likely be surprised at the lack of regimentation in the university curricula (e.g. little to no homework, no required attendance in class.) Outside of the classroom, you may find the friendmaking process rather slower or more cumbersome than in the US, but the friendships you do make will be very rewarding. During all of this it may feel as if you’re flying by the seat of your pants, and in some respect you will be. I know that’s exactly how I felt during my study abroad experience. Just remember that you’re not alone and that if you’re independent, strong-willed and determined, you’ll do nothing less than succeed admirably. Index 1. Before You Go: Financial matters, preparation, and communication 2. Taking off: The journey from homeland to Ausland 3. Life in Germany: Establishing and acclimating yourself within your new city and country 4. The University: Intensive language course, orientation program, courses, and campus 5. Free Time: Social networks, friendships and fun 6. Cultural Differences: What you may or may not know 7. Nearing the End: Obligations before departure 8. Back Home: Post-abroad reflections Resources 1. Map of the Frankfurt International Airport 2. University information sheet on the intensive language program 3. Color map of central Marburg including downtown and historic district. Links 4. Map of the Frankfurt Main Train Station (Hauptbahnhof) (http://www.uwosh.edu/oie/studyabroad/exchange/hesguidebahnhofsplan.pdf) 5. Map of the Greater Marburg Bus Lines (http://www.uwosh.edu/oie/studyabroad/exchange/hesguidemarburgbus.pdf) 6. Certificate of proof of insurance (http://www.uwosh.edu/oie/studyabroad/exchange/hesguideinsurancecertificate.pdf) 7. Orientation schedule (http://www.uwosh.edu/oie/studyabroad/exchange/hesguideorientationschedule.pdf) 8. Task sheet that lists what all must be done in the time between arrival and the start of the semester. (http://www.uwosh.edu/oie/studyabroad/exchange/hesguidetasksheet.pdf) 9. Example of a course completion certificate (Schein) (http://www.uwosh.edu/oie/studyabroad/exchange/hesguidescheine.pdf) Chapter 1: Before You Go: Financial Matters, Preparation and Communication Normally the preparatory time for a semester or year-long study abroad is one year. This gives you enough time to submit your papers, attend orientation meetings, confer with professors, save money and establish a budget before you travel to your country of destination. Many aspects of this process are the same no matter what program you choose, so I will only address here what was specific to my program in Germany (Hessen.) One major factor that you have to ascertain is your budget. I would highly recommend that you save as much money as possible before you go. I thought that saving around 1,000 US dollars would get me through, but unexpected occurrences such as the financial aid mix up unfortunately happen. Also, be mindful that your financial aid will reach you slower than if you were on the UW Oshkosh campus. I found myself laden with bills and fees when I first arrived and again ended up depending on my parents to assist me financially until the system decided to actually transfer my aid to my bank account. If you can, try to find somebody that you can rely on while abroad to assist you in financial matters. Universities have thousands of students that they have to serve and can at times seem indifferent to your needs. Therefore, if you know somebody you can trust (most likely parents or maybe a significant other) that can manage your finances at home; it will make things easier for you while abroad. Another fact to keep in mind is the beginning and end dates of the semester in which you will be partaking. Determining when to arrive and when to depart can be tricky. For instance, although I was notified of the date of the orientation program, it was not specified if I should arrive before the first day or on the first day. In fact, I did not even know where I would be residing. Therefore, email orientation leaders or international office leaders as soon as possible to find out when the best time to arrive would be. I had difficulties in contacting representatives abroad. Many did not return my emails. Expect a significant amount of time to pass between your correspondence and the return correspondence of a German authority. I was eventually told that it was unnecessary to come before the first day of orientation, especially since I would not have any sort of lodging before then. Ironically when I arrived on that day I was told by another authority that I was late and that I should have arrived earlier. Among German departments you will often find this contradictory nature; if one office tells you something, another will instruct you to do something completely different. Conversely, determining when to leave will be important as well. For the Philipps- Uni in Marburg the winter semester ends after the second week of February. Until the beginning of April, they have a vacation period. The spring semester ends in mid August and they have a vacation period until October. Make sure you buy your ticket with a departure date that gives you adequate time to finalize all aspects of your stay in Germany. I will discuss these later in the handbook, but know that you will need to give yourself time (at least a week) to complete all of these tasks. This might include deregistering yourself from the university, visiting the Stadtbüro (city hall) to inform them of your departure, giving your Kündigung (notice of termination) to your respective residence hall director (Wirtschafter(in) ), etc. In addition, you may choose to stay longer to visit with friends, work or travel within Germany and/or Europe. Another important matter to address before you leave is that of the language course. For the Philipps-University in Marburg and most likely in many German universities, they will require that you pay the language course fee before your arrival in Germany. This was a confusing and difficult process for me because I had never done a wire transfer of money before. My bank also seemed a bit unfamiliar with this process, oddly enough. Depending on which financial institution your university goes through, this may be an easier or more difficult process. Even more so, depending on which bank you conduct the wire transfer can make this an easy or difficult process. The German university should give you the sufficient information for transferring the money. After determining that the funds have been transferred correctly, make sure that you have taken into account all administrative fees. Though I thought I had addressed them all, I found myself with a bill for twenty five Euros in my first week of the language course. Lastly, beyond packing and saying good-byes, I would just like to take a moment again to emphasize that while it is ok to have hopes for your trip abroad, try not to set expectations; more often than not it will leave you disappointed and make it more difficult for you to appreciate aspects of life abroad, or at least make it more difficult to learn from them. Chapter 2: Taking Off: The Journey from Homeland to Ausland The flight over to Europe from O’Hare International lasts about 8 to 9 hours. If you’re at all like me, I have difficulties sleeping on an airplane, so you might want to bring something to occupy your time (books, video games, music, etc.) Although a bit intimidating, I found O’Hare to be rather easy to navigate. On the other hand, navigating through the Frankfurt International Airport can be a bit more difficult. Being my first time in a foreign country and certainly my first time in the Frankfurt Int. airport, I honestly had no clue where I was going. The best you can do is pretty much to follow the signs. A guidebook can be helpful, if you find the right one. Unfortunately, mine contained mostly colored pictures and was of little use. Make sure to purchase a guide with good information, even if it may seem more complicated or difficult to read. Maps can help somewhat too, though there aren’t many good ones available for the Frankfurt Int. Airport. I’ve attached the best map of the FIA I could find for reference (a). The important thing to look for here is directions to the train. You’ll find the train in the lowest level of the airport. There is a service desk there, but you’re better off and usually expected to use the train automats. These terminals will give you a list of different destinations and options for various sorts of tickets. Look for the location that will bring you to the main Frankfurt train station. There is more than one train station in Frankfurt, so remember that you are looking for the Hauptbahnhof. It will be confusing at first because of the different train designations and locations, but in time you will get used to them. After arriving at the main train station, I spent almost two hours wandering around trying to get my bearings and find the right train to my destination, Marburg. It was rather embarrassing because I had a pack on my back, one on my chest and I was dragging a third one along. When you arrive at the Hauptbahnhof, remember that you are in the lower level of it. Therefore, you have to go up the escalators and you will know when you’ve reached the top. As Frankfurt is a very international city and a major hub of transportation within Europe, you’ll find that many Germans speak excellent English. In addition, there is a specific help desk for English-speakers. Don’t be afraid to ask questions because the last thing you want is to end up on the wrong train! It is a little overwhelming at first because there are crowds of people everywhere, various restaurants and shops and certainly many train lines leading to places all over Germany and a few occasionally outside of Germany. Here again you must buy a ticket to your city. You can use one of the train automats or there is a very large service area where you can find help and purchase a ticket. Here I have attached a reference map of the main train station to hopefully facilitate your way through (b). There will be a large board posted on the opposite side of the trains over the service desk that will list the arrival and departure times for all the trains at the station. Look to see when the next train will depart for your destination. Often your destination will be on the way to the train’s final destination, but you will want to take it because it will stop at your city. Above all the trains there are screens that indicate their destinations and stops in between. Trains are numbered because it is possible that they might both have the same final destination but will take a different route with different stops on their way. Unfortunately, if you’re going to a smaller town you might have to wait a bit longer to catch a train. On the other hand, trains running to Kassel, Giessen and Wiesbaden run usually once an hour. If you are unsure as to whether or not you’re getting on the right train, ask somebody. This is especially important because there are different types of trains; ICE trains cost more money and are faster than the regular trains. Once the train starts moving, an authority will check your pass. Therefore, you won’t be able to simply exit the train. You could end up in trouble if you get on this train without the correct pass! I was scared to ask at first because I thought I might seem ignorant, foreign, or just sound stupid in German. The girl I ended up asking was very nice and it made me feel more secure that I knew then for sure that I was on the right train. When you are approaching your destination, be mindful that a city might have more than one train station. Even in a smaller city like Marburg there are two. One is the southern station and the other is the main station. When you exit, you’ll make your way out to the upper level where you’ll meet the city first hand. Again, as a first time international traveler I was taken aback by my new surroundings. It’s an unsettling thing to not know anything about a city and be expected to navigate your way through it. Although I had directions to the orientation program, they proved to be of little use. One thing I will address later is the bus system. For now just keep in mind that the buses mostly travel in a circulatory path. If you’re waiting at a stop on the righthand side of the street your destination will be different from the train on the left-hand side of the street. To explain this a bit better, when you first come out of the train station, look straight across the street. You should see a tanning salon and a Döner shop (Turkish fast food.) Cross the street at the crosswalk and you will see to your left a bus stop. Wait at this bus stop until a bus comes that is going to Rudolphsplatz (18). Not being familiar with any of the street or plaza names, I found the system almost incomprehensible at first. Don’t worry! You will get used to it as time goes by. I attempted to ask one of the drivers which bus I should take to get to my orientation, but unfortunately I did not find him to be very helpful. After several bus rides all over the city, I finally located the orientation program. Once you get to Rudolphsplatz, getting to the orientation will be easy. Upon exiting the bus, walk to the right until you see Biegenstrasse. Here I was fortunate enough to meet one of the administrators who got me a taxi to bring me to the Studentendorf (student village) where I would be staying during my semester. They will be able to arrange this for you as well once you arrive. If this all still seems confusing, I have attached a map of the Marburg bus system at the back of the packet (e). In addition, I have included an example of the schedule for bus line 1. This is what the bus schedules will look like when you observe them at the bus stop. Line 1 will lead from the Hauptbahnhof (1) to Rudolphsplatz, though there are others that will as well (f). Make sure you get off at Rudolphsplatz! If you don’t you may be stuck on the bus for a long time. At best the situation is undefined and uncertain. Unfortunately, locating the orientation program and student living in your city might be trial and error like mine. I would recommend, if possible, procuring a map of the city before you leave. In addition, if you can, find out anything about the local bus system before you leave. It will definitely be to your advantage. The link to Marburg’s Stadtwerke (9), their public transportation administrative office, is http://www.stadtwerke-marburg.de/detail/13197. Chapter 3: Life in Germany: Establishing and Acclimating Yourself within Your New City and Country Most likely your living situation while in Germany will be in a Studentenwohnheim (dormitory facility.) If you have German contacts already you may opt for a Wohngemeinschaft (living in an apartment with other Germans) but otherwise this is difficult to do. Though at some universities facilities may be closer, the Studentendorf (student dormitories) in Marburg were located about forty five minutes away from campus. By bus some of the main campus buildings were about 15 minutes away. The campus in Marburg is quite spread out and different Fachbereiche (academic departments) are located within different parts of the city. From the Studentendorf the downtown area is located about 10 minutes away by bus. Here you’ll find the supermarkets (Tegut, Lidel, Aldi’s) (11, 13, 14), shops (H&M, Ahrens) and many bakeries. From the downtown area you’ll have the option of going to the Oberstadt/Altstadt. Both of these terms are used because for one, this was where the original medieval center of Marburg was located and it is situated on the incline of a hill. In the downtown area you’ll find an abundance of shops and cafes. As well, you’ll come to the old town center where open air markets are held every Saturday morning. If you continue up the incline, you’ll eventually reach the Marburger Schloss (15). This is the city’s medieval castle, surrounded by large gardens. Here you will find a breath-taking view of the entire city and valley. Enjoy! Now I will address the bus system because like I said it can often be confusing and there will be times where you will end up somewhere and have no clue as to where you are. The student dormitories are located on top of a hill. There are two main bus stops to use there. One is located on top of the hill and the other is located at the bottom of the hill. If you are using the bus stop at the top of the hill, make sure you use the one on the opposite side of the street. This means that when you walk up the hill and see the bus stop, cross the street and wait at the one on that side. Otherwise, if you walk up the hill and do not cross the street, the bus will lead you to the Marburg Clinic. If you’re using the bus stop on the bottom of the hill, this one is across the street as well and will take you all the way through town. It is easily visible with a forest and ascending hill behind it. All of the bus stops will be designated with a number and their respective street/place name. Bus routes can sometimes be fickle and subject to change. Although Germany, in comparison with some other European countries, has a very prompt and effective bus system, there are often delays of about 5 to 10 minutes. Sometimes catching a different bus to get to the same destination can save you time; I would advise, however, that you stick to a few reliable routes until you feel you have a good grasp on the system. Throughout the bus there are red buttons that indicate that you wish to stop, labeled sometimes as Halt. Don’t forget to press this, because sometimes a driver will not stop if there aren’t any passengers that wish to exit at that particular stop. Also, be aware that the bus can often be crowded, noisy and smelly. Coming from a culture in which most people drive a car, I found this particularly difficult to get used to. After a while I ended up for the most part walking wherever I went. German cities are extremely accommodating to pedestrians and you will be surprised at how many people you see out and about in the city during the day. Again, when taking the bus, you can refer to the map of the bus system for the greater Marburg area, published by the Stadtwerke Marburg (5). I have also included an example of bus line 7 (g). This is a line that runs from the Studentendorf to the train station and into the downtown area. Again, to find the full schedule for all lines and for answers to additional questions, the website http://www.stadtwerkemarburg.de/detail/13197 can be somewhat helpful. Another cause that Germans take very seriously is that of protecting the environment. Their cities are impressively immaculate and throughout town there are garbage cans reminding you to clean up after yourself. Many appliances (including dryers, to my woe) are also adapted to be more energy efficient and thus environmentally friendly. This means that no matter how many times you try to dry your clothes in the dryer, they will not dry! So please, do not waste your money. Instead, you will have to do like most Germans and other international students do; you will hang your clothes on clothing lines. There is a room connected to the washer/dryer room in which all students in the dormitory hang their clothing to dry. As an American, I found this very strange at first. As well, I didn’t like how awkwardly and stiffly my clothes dried, but unfortunately it’s just something you have to adapt to. Buses use a combination of fuel and natural gas to meet cleaner air standards and achieve better fuel efficiency. Regulations on cars, even their outer appearance, are rather strict and therefore you will hardly see an older vehicle on a German street. Cars with rust are verboten and most students either walk or ride their bicycle. This is something to watch out for. You will normally here the ringing of a bell as a bicycle approaches you from behind, but often pedestrian and cycler compete for the same pathways and sidewalks. Within the walls of the student dormitories, you will find quite a few challenges. Keep in mind that these are only the facilities of the dormitories of the Uni-Philipps campus in Marburg and that facilities on other campuses can vary greatly. It’s best if possible to ascertain where you’re going to be staying in advance and then if possible research the facilities (see if you can find any photos of the dorm room, the common room, etc.) to make sure that it’s right for you and decent enough to live in. My experience with the dorms in Marburg was disappointing as a result of the lack of research. In my defense, however, I wasn’t made aware of my living situation until a week before I left. Before I arrived, I had hoped that I would be living with other Germans and thus have the opportunity for better cultural/language immersion. Instead I ended up living with mostly international students that kept to themselves. Although I eventually made friends with the few Germans that did live on my floor, they normally were very busy with school and had little free time. Keep in mind that it will take quite a while to make German friends while abroad. They are slow to warm up/ trust, but they are amazing friends once you’ve formed a bond with them. On the other hand, the language course proved to be one of the best places to meet people and make new friends. The international students from this group formed a tight-knit group that held parties and outings throughout the semester. The English-speaking students (namely Canadians, Americans and Australians) formed a group for the natural reasons of a shared language, culture and support. Depending on your desired level of immersion in the country and the fluency in German that you wish to acquire, it may be more or less desirable to spend a lot of time with fellow Americans/English-speakers. I would suggest spending time at first with them because some may have already been there for the summer or a semester and will be a great help when trying to find your way around the city or within the university system. Afterwards, I personally spent less time with them and the international students because I wanted to further my knowledge of the German language and culture. This is completely a preference but something to keep in mind. Concerning the facilities and organization of the dormitories, there are several that are each administered by a Wirtschafter or Wirtschafterin. You will rarely see this person and unless you have a problem within your dorm, the interaction with this figure will rarely go beyond a series of notes they may leave in the common area/ kitchen reminding you to clean up after yourself or admonishing the floor for lack of adherence to the rules. You will get your keys from the Wirtschafter (or possibly from someone else) when you first arrive and must make an appointment to check out of your room at the end of the semester. I was surprised that I did not even receive a formal welcome by the director or a tour. Be prepared to familiarize yourself with the facilities at hand. My room was very small and contained a desk, a closet, a small table, a narrow bed and a sink. If you have sufficient funds, you can compliment your Spartan conditions with a variety of items from Mediamarkt (the German equivalent of Best Buy) or other shops within town. I personally made collages, bought rugs and hung lights to make my room feel cozier. My room was one of nine single rooms on one side of the floor, and nine rooms stood on the other side of the floor. For each side there was one bathroom and one shower. These scant conditions can make going to the bathroom or showering difficult to time. The kitchen was positioned as the intersection of the two sides of the floor and there everyone cooked, socialized and watched TV. Some floors had much better facilities in their commons than others. Unfortunately our floor was one of the most under-funded of them all. Be prepared to have to compromise with fellow roommates as to what is being played on TV. Sometimes I would be watching a show and someone would up and change the channel on me without even asking. The Germans always asked permission, however, before changing the channel. There are two large refrigerators that everyone shares. Each has his or her own section of the fridge. Sometimes again certain people start to place their items in space that isn’t theirs. In the freezer you’ll be lucky to find any room. Depending on whether or not you cook while in Germany will make this matter more or less important. I found the meals in the Mensa (5) (student cafeteria) to be bland and repetitious; therefore, I opted to cook for myself. Again, some kitchens in the dormitories are abundant in cooking utensils while others are severely lacking. You may want to buy your own pan and pot so that if you decide to cook while others are cooking, you don’t have to wait around to actually make your meal. Outside of the dormitories in the Studentendorf area you can find cigarette machines, telephones and a small shop where you can purchase snacks and beer. This shop is located within the Schwartzweiss, the only bar within the student village and a common gathering place for students living there. Often the Schwartzweiss will hold special events, many featuring an ethnic flair, and on certain days they will have discounted beer. Here, like in many other places, you can order other drinks, but you’ll soon find that the majority of Germans overwhelmingly prefer beer to anything else. This probably will not be a surprise to anyone who already knows something about German culture. For most other necessities, such as groceries, banking and entertainment, you will have to make a trip to the downtown area. Here I will note as well that there are no computer or phone facilities in the Studentendorf. It is your responsibility and at your cost to bring a computer and obtain internet/phone service. One of the largest and most popular companies in Germany for this service is Deutsche Telecom (T Mobile). Their office is located downtown as well (12). I will warn you that T-Com tends to be very bureaucratic (like many German/European institutions) and you might find yourself frustrated by the kind of service you receive. As Americans, we expect prompt, friendly and efficient service. You will find a different concept in service in Germany, though signs will normally belie this with declarations of dedication to service. The alternative to not obtaining broadband and bringing your own computer is to use the university computer labs. Keep in mind though that there is only one main computer lab (located downtown) on the fourth floor and that it is in constant demand. You might wait anywhere from 5-45 minutes for a computer, depending on what time of day you go. I would advise going later in the evening or early in the morning. You’ll be more likely then to find open computers and get one right away. There are smaller computer labs located throughout the different academic buildings, but they are smaller and more limited in availability (the one for the languages was only open until 5 and used frequently during the day for classes.) The main computer lab is only open until 9 p.m. The operators of the computer lab will normally start asking everyone to leave and shutting the computers off 15 minutes early, so be prepared to pack your bags and clear out by 8:45. As for phone service, this is what I did. I went with some friends to Mediamarkt (6) and got myself a cheap cell phone (around 27 Euro) and had it activated on the spot. For the rest of the semester I purchased minutes through cards sold at Mediamarkt. A word of advice; do not purchase these cards from vending machines on the street. It may seem more convenient, but I lost money in those machines twice and there is little you can do to get that money back. Weather in Germany can be somewhat tricky as well. At least in middle Germany, it rains continuously. Most of the time this rain is actually a sprinkle, but you should always keep an umbrella with you. This weather normally lasts from the beginning of October until late April. Summers are generally similar to those in Wisconsin. Temperatures are always given in Celsius; therefore, it would be advantageous to re-familiarize yourself with a simple formula to translate that to Fahrenheit, at least until you become accustomed to “thinking” in Celsius. Winters and summers are both generally relatively milder than the extremes that we experience in Wisconsin. These temperatures range from about 1 degree Celsius in January-34 degrees Fahrenheit to 19 degrees Celsius in July- 66 degrees Fahrenheit in the state of Hessen. Chapter 4: The University: Optional Intensive Language Course, Orientation Program, Courses, and Campus During the summer, the university will send you an information sheet regarding the orientation and intensive language program. There is a fee of about 250 Euro (330 US Dollars at a 1 Euro to 1.33 Dollar exchange rate- March 26, 2007). Since wire transfers can be tricky, and they do ask for the payment beforehand, make sure everything is done correctly. A few weeks after my arrival I was notified that I still owed 25 Euro for the program, though I did not understand why. Although it was not explained to me as to why I owed this money, I realized later that I had not paid my orientation fee. As well, make sure to depart two evenings before the first day of orientation. I was told to come within a few days of the start date, and when I arrived in the afternoon of the first day, I was reprimanded for having missed the first day of orientation. Although I previously laid out directions to reach Marburg, for the sake of clarity I will post here directions that come directly from the Philipps-University website: If you arrive at Terminal 1 of Frankfurt Airport: Pick up your luggage on the arrivals level Follow the signs to the Regional Train Station (Regionalbahnhof) Buy a train ticket to Marburg / Lahn (max. EUR 20) in the Travel Center (Reisezentrum) Take the S-Bahn to Frankfurt Main Train Station ("Hauptbahnhof") (approx. 10 min.) Change trains to go to Marburg Arrival at Terminal 2 of Frankfurt Airport: Pick up luggage on the arrivals level Take the direct shuttle bus to the airport train stations (the shuttle stop is on level two just outside the terminal. The Shuttle leaves every 10 minutes from 5:00 am to 12:30 am. Between 12:30 am and 5:00 am you should follow the signs “Train Stations via Sky Line") Buy a train ticket to Marburg / Lahn (max. Euro 20) in the Travel Center (Reisezentrum) Take the S-Bahn to Frankfurt Main Train Station ("Hauptbahnhof") (approx. 10 min.) Change trains to go to Marburg Train to Marburg The train trip from Frankfurt’s Main Train Station ("Hauptbahnhof") to Marburg Hauptbahnhof lasts about one hour. The trains depart every sixty minutes between 5:22 am and 10:22 pm and at 11:27 pm from Monday to Saturday. On Sunday, the trains depart between 7:22 am and 10:23 pm. There is an additional train on Saturday and Sunday at 12:27 am. Do not travel without a valid ticket! Please do not leave the train at the Marburg South stop ("Marburg Süd"), but continue on to the next stop, which is the Marburg Lahn Main Train Station ("Hauptbahnhof")! Arrival in Marburg How to get there by public transport: Upon your arrival at the train station ("Hauptbahnhof") please take the bus (1, 2, 3, 6, 7 or C) to the destination “Rudolphsplatz”. The bus stop is located on the right hand side of the train station`s main exit , about 100 metres ahead. Get off at “Rudolphsplatz”. From the bus stop “Rudolphsplatz” walk back a few steps (past the cinema “Capitol”), cross the small street, also called “Biegenstrasse” and find the main entrance of the university administration building, Biegenstrasse 10. If you wish, you could also hail a taxi for around 2/3 Euro. A taxi service is located to the left of the train station. When you exit the train station, turn right and very soon you will see the sign for the service. Make sure you are clear as to your destination. …………………………………………………………………………………………….. If you arrive before the first day, you will end up having to stay in a youth hostel. With minimal to no knowledge of the city, the youth hostel is not easy to find and will be a hassle to move all of your things not only there, but then to your dormitory in a few days. If you wish to arrive before the start date, more information regarding youth hostels in Germany can be found at http://www.jugendherberge.de/de/. Once you begin orientation, you will all gather in the Mensa (student cafeteria) to begin filling out paperwork. This will be the majority of your work for the first week/ first two weeks. Although the aids assist you in filling everything out, it is your responsibility to go to the Stadtbüro (Marburg’s administrative office) and obtain your visa. Be aware that there is a fee of 50 Euro processing fee (as of October 2005). You will also have to register your health insurance with the German government to receive official certification of coverage. An example of what the certification looks like can be found in the attachments ( ). One essential process that the orientation will direct is that of obtaining a bank account. You will go as a group to the local bank (Marburger Bank) and will set up an account. After these three things are taken care of, you will be led to the university’s administrative building where you will conduct your official Anmeldung (registration) and obtain your official Studentenausweis (student identification certificate.) This you will need to keep with you at all times in case authorities need to check your identification (especially when riding the bus or train.) This Studentenausweis will also be your semester pass for taking the train in the greater Hessen area (from Kassel in northern Hessen to Frankfurt/Wiesbaden in southern Hessen.) One of the last important steps to establishing yourself in Marburg will be obtaining a valid bus pass. You won’t be able to purchase your semester pass until about a week before the semester begins, therefore you will have to buy a temporary one for the beginning of your stay. This bus pass is available at the Marburg Public Transport Office (9) There will be other paperwork to fill out, but these will be the most essential and critical to your stay in Marburg. Unfortunately, along with leaving you pretty much on your own in locating these places and processing your paperwork, the orientation program does little to familiarize you with the university campus and greater Marburg area. Since the university is spread out throughout the city, you will end up having to discover the various buildings on your own. This will be especially tricky during your first days of class (I stumbled upon a mathematics course when I was looking for my literature course.) One of the most important buildings during your stay will be the Savigny House (10) Here on the fourth floor you will find the computer lab. Make sure you have the proper paperwork (especially and mainly your Studentenausweis) prepared so that you can be entered into the system and procure a user name and password. It will be a few weeks before you get your student id, so until then, you will have to use the computers at one of the internet cafes (7). One of the cheapest ones is located just across the street from the Mensa and Mediamarkt. The other area that the orientation program covers is an excursion downtown to familiarize students with the local grocery stores. Foreign students do this in conjunction with an international cuisine night, wherein students from different countries prepare a native dish of their choice. For the optional intensive language course, students will begin by taking a placement test to determine their proficiency in German. From here, students are organized into levels A through E, A students having the least amount of knowledge in German and E the most extensive. Try to get to know and get along with the other students in your group, as you will be seeing them every week day for the next month or so. There will be students in your level from all over the world, though most will probably be from other European countries. The language course meets for 4/5 hours a day and covers a wide array of topics, including culture, grammar, politics and vocabulary building. Here you will get the opportunity to actively use and improve your German, though I felt that more incorporation of native speakers during the language course could have helped. In this case, the university offers the possibility of pairing up with a native German speaker (university student) to help you with your German skills (Tandem partner). You spend one hour conversing in and improving your German, then another conversing in English and improving your partner’s skills. The form for this arrangement will be provided during the course. One activity in the course will give you the opportunity to go on a scavenger hunt to help familiarize yourself with the city. Another excursion will take you to see the historical city of Fulda and bring you to the Hessen/Thüringen border, where you will see and experience Cold War German history. The course will conclude with a short essay and Referat, or, presentation. For our presentation, we were asked to choose a book of our choice and tell the class about it. After this, unless you require a grade for the course, you will receive your Schein (certificate) that provides documentation for the completion of the course. Towards the end of your language course you will want to begin looking online to see what courses will be available for the semester. Courses first appear online only a week or so before the beginning of the semester, so use your week off wisely to figure out which ones you want to take. There will be German courses offered specifically for international students. I would highly recommend taking these courses, but make sure that your German skills are developed enough before enrolling. Otherwise, course choices are limitless. You can attend whatever classes you like, but remember that these are designed for native German speakers, so it may be somewhat difficult to keep up. Make sure to let the professor know in the first days that you would like a Schein for the course, so that if it is a Vorlesung (lecture), the professor can devise a test for you. Most likely this final test will be orally given. If you intend on taking a foreign language course in Germany, you will have to complete a placement exam in that language. I did this for a Spanish course and it was not terribly difficult. Again though, the placement test I took was oral, not written. One great difference between German universities and American universities is that you do not register for your classes online. You simply show up the first day and sign off on a sheet. This whole process will feel very haphazard, but once you have located and attended your classes for the first few weeks, it will start to feel more established. As an American student, in the course of the semester it will not seem as though there is much to do. Most classes at a German university determine a grade or completion of the course only by a final exam. For exchange students, most if not all of these exams will be oral. Chapter 5: Free Time: Social Networks, Friendships and Fun Establishing a social network in Germany was a very difficult process for me. The first and most appealing option when you arrive is befriending other American and or Englishspeaking students. International students from various countries formed groups of friends with fellow countrymen. Adapting to a new culture and language can be scary, and adjusting to your new surroundings will be easier when the experience is shared with others. You’re away from family and friends and this is certainly normal. Remember though, if you are serious about immersion, you have to branch out and make friends with German students. This can be difficult because it is solely your responsibility to do so. If you don’t feel like speaking German, beyond the classroom and a phrase here and there, you really won’t have to. One of the best places to meet Germans is within the dormitories. Although they are almost a minority on some floors, they will be your best chance for establishing new friendships. The general observation about Germans is that they are slow to warm up to you, but once you’ve formed a bond, they are very loyal friends. This was certainly my experience. Another place to meet Germans is in the classroom, though if you are attending a lecture, this will probably prove more difficult. Finally, the most common way to make friends in Germany is through friends. Once you make a German friend, you will be introduced to his/her friends. After spending time together on several occasions, if you get along, you will have made a new friend. One big difference between American and German culture is that of the bar scene. Germans find it strange and sometimes offensive to suddenly come up to a stranger and attempt a conversation. Though this situation is a bit more flexible in larger cities, the rule certainly applies in smaller places like Marburg. Some of my most cherished memories in Germany come from the time I spent with my German friends. Two friends of mine made me a cake from scratch for my birthday. Other friends of mine took me to visit their hometowns in Wiesbaden and Kassel, introduced me to their families, and invited me along on excursions to the Christmas market and parties in the city. As far as the nightlife goes in Marburg, it mostly consists of bars and small parties. Buses are available until midnight, but after that you will have to call a taxi or simply walk home. Taxis are relatively cheap (a few Euro) and reliable. If you want to dance, be ready to make a trip to Frankfurt. Most establishments are exclusively places to drink. Party events are held on a weekly basis, along with all kinds of entertainment. Flyers for these events are usually posted everywhere around the university and will keep you well-informed as to what’s happening. Closing time may be 2/2:30 or later, depending on attendance and what kind of event is being held. Beer is definitely the cheapest drink and the most popular (2/3 Euro.) Some of the largest events during the year include Oktoberfest, Weihnachtsmarkt, and Karnival. I would highly recommend partaking in all of them. Certain cities in Germany are renowned for their festivities during these holidays. Although Munich is world-famous for its Oktoberfest, I found the one in Marburg to be extremely enjoyable and much cheaper. It may be worth it to avoid the crowds and long lines, in addition to saving a pretty penny. Concerning the Weihnachtsmarkt, I would recommend traveling to a larger city to experience it. Nuremburg is probably most famous in Germany for its Christmas market, but Frankfurt has an excellent one as well. The trip to Frankfurt is only an hour away and free of charge. Along with the many shops and beautiful scenery, you will find a plethora of specialty drinks and foods normally only offered during the Christmas season. For Karnival, or Mardi Gras, Cologne is renowned for its pre-Lenten festivities. Unfortunately I only had the opportunity to hear about it from other Germans. Here I should take the opportunity to mention dining options as well. Though there are restaurants in Marburg, they vary much from their American counterparts. For one, many will feature mainly traditional German cuisine. There are other restaurants that feature foreign foods, but they are few in number (this applies to smaller cities like Marburg, not larger ones such as Frankfurt.) If you’re looking for fast food, you will find it in one of the many individually owned Turkish Döner shops. Here you will taste one of the most, in my opinion, delightful and amazing foods ever. The Döner is somewhat like a gyro in concept, but is different at the same time. Pita bread is grilled and then filled with freshly-shaven slices of lamb or chicken, your choice. Afterward, you select what “salad” toppings you want on it (tomatoes, cabbage, onion, etc.) Finally, the Döner is completed with either yogurt or garlic sauce and accompanied by some pepperoncini (peppers.) This is overwhelmingly the most common and most popular fast food among German students. In addition to various types of Turkish food, you may also order such popular German items as Wurst and Schnitzel. American options include hamburgers and fries, which the Germans invoke in French as Pommes Frites. During the winter you will also be able to get a hot cup of Glüwein from these fast food restaurants. This is the most typical German Christmas drink which is basically a spiced wine. You can get coffee from here as well, but a trip to the Italian Café (19) across from the Cineplex or a cup from the local Tchibo (19) (a German chain coffee shop) will be much more rewarding. At the Italian Café, you can even sample some scrumptious Gelato (Italian ice cream.) It may not be German, but it’s still European! If all else fails, there’s a McDonald’s right next to the main computer lab. Chapter 6: Cultural Differences: What You May or May Not Know As I already mentioned in the previous chapter, Germans may be difficult to get to know, but when you befriend them, they are considerate and loyal. One observation you may make throughout your stay in Germany is that people are very obedient to the law. Litter is hard to find as responsible Germans utilize the garbage cans posted throughout the city consistently. While in some respects this strong obedience to the law can be beneficial, at other times it will seem strange or even overdramatic to the average American. Examples of this from my experience include being yelled at for putting my feet up in an empty seat while riding the train and being ejected from a building when it was freezing cold because I was not a customer. This cold attitude may be perceived as well when you look for help at a store or in a more administrative setting. You most likely will either be directed to someone else or simply be told that the person cannot help you, or maybe even that it is not their problem. Bureaucracy is higher and usually more complicated in Germany. A more socialist system assures job security, yet often seemingly allows workers to become complacent and creates an indifferent attitude toward customers. One important skill to learn when in Germany is the ability to argue. If you speak up when somebody is turning you away or doing an injustice to you, most likely they will be so shocked that they will end up helping you. I was timid at first because of my language skills, but as the months progressed, I learned that this was sometimes the only way you could get anybody to help you or do something for you. This was a piece of advice that several of my German friends gave me as well. When I needed to see a doctor, I went with a friend of mine. The secretary did not recognize my insurance and attempted to turn me away, but when my friend insisted it was valid and demanded to see the doctor, we were able to get help. Some other common cultural differences include Germans’ strong political and environmental awareness. Politics is a common topic of discussion among Germans and in general people are much more aware of their country’s politics than Americans. The presidential election of 2005 took place when I was in Germany and there was a strong voter turn out. Don’t be surprised to see political flyers posted throughout the city and even billboards advertising local and regional politicians. Lastly, smoking is very common in Germany. Before I came to Germany I knew of the French stereotype penchant for smoking, but I did not know how widespread it was in Germany. There are cigarette vending machines throughout the city and inside many bars. Several common areas where smoking is forbidden in the US are considered permissible grounds in Germany. Things are changing in Germany as well these days and now cigarette packs contain loud, bold messages declaring that smoking kills, etc. This, however, does not seem to have done much as of yet to deter people. I mention this not as a critique, only an observation. Chapter 7: Nearing the End: Obligations before Departure In the last few weeks of your stay, you’ll need to tie up loose ends before leaving the country. First of all, you will have to close your bank account. This proved to be one of the easiest processes for me in a series of more difficult and complicated ones. Simply go to the bank and request to close your account. This was the situation circa 2006. It could be possible that procedure has changed, or that it varies from bank to bank. Therefore, remember to check with your bank upon opening an account as to what the closing procedures are. If all goes well, within a few minutes you’ll have the remaining cash from your account. You may be charged, like usual, with a small fee (around 5 Euro.) Such is life in Europe. The next important step is to notify your dormitory director Wirtschafter(in) of your impending departure. You will then set up an appointment for the two of you to meet and for him/her to formally check you out of your room. Be sure that this date is clear and agreed upon. My director and I established an appointment only for her to go on vacation days before I finished the semester. I would advise confirming the appointment even a day or two beforehand to avoid the difficult circumstances I found myself in. As well, you will be assessed a 25 Euro fee for the cleaning of the room. Do not attempt to clean the room yourself in an effort to save money. I did this only to be informed that I had not done a sufficient job and the room would need to be re-cleaned (I spent a whole day and money on cleaning materials in an effort to avoid this fee.) Once you have obtained the check out form from him/her, you will take that form to the Studentenwerk in the highest floor of the Mensa (Cafeteria) building. At first you will have to go to the financial office (where you make your last two months rent payments) for processing and reimbursement of the Kaution (security deposit) you had to pay at the start of your stay (around 150 to 200 Euros.) Go money! Then you will proceed to go to the main office, down the hall, to finalize your Kündigung or notice of termination. Remember that you will have to notify the city authorities of your departure vis-à-vis an Abmeldung or “deregistration” at the Stadtbüro and an Exmatrikulation (also another form of deregistration, but from the university) at the same office where you completed your official registration with the university and received your student identification certificate. You may also be able to exmatriculate in the Auslandsamt while having your transcript processed. Now you’re almost done. The final formal procedure to complete before leaving is the procurement of all your certificates. Once you’ve achieved this, you must head to the Auslandsamt (3) (international student office) to have your transcripts sent to your university back home. Know that you must do this in order to receive credit back at your home university. I at first believed that my certificates would suffice until I received an email only days before my departure notifying me that I had to stop by the international office and display my Scheine so I could have transcripts made. Without the office seeing these transcripts, they will have no official proof/documentation whereby they can create transcripts. Make sure all your certificates have the appropriate professor’s signature AND the official university stamp. Without either of these they are invalid. These will both happen automatically when you receive the certificate from your professor. He/She will sign it, stamp it and hand it over to you. Finally, keep in mind that like many official offices in Germany, their hours of operation are irregular and often few. One day I was informed by a worker that I could come in the next day in the afternoon to have my transcript processed, and then when I arrived, I was informed that the worker who performs that process was gone for the day and I would not be helped until tomorrow. When you have completed all of this, pack your bags and say your good-byes, you’re on your way back home. If you’re not quite ready to leave yet and have some spare change, now might be a good time to do some traveling. Chapter 8: Back Home: Post Abroad Reflections The altruism “hindsight is 20/20” certainly can be applied to anyone’s study abroad experience. As you arrive home and get accustomed to life in America once more, you’re bound to contemplate the time you spent abroad and what it meant to you. Maybe you had a wonderful time and made great friends, maybe you were miserable and just wanted to be back home. Maybe you had people helping you along the entire way, and maybe you had nobody to point you in the right direction. Nobody’s trip will be all smiles and laughter, but even if things prove difficult, there will be undoubtedly spots of sun which poke through the clouds. No matter how you feel about your time abroad, it’s important to recognize that you accomplished something that many people in their lifetime will never do: live and survive in a foreign country. There is so much to be said about having to speak a foreign language not only on a daily basis, but to rely upon it for survival. You’ve stepped way outside of your comfort zone and remained strong even when you were frustrated, tired of it all or simply wanted to give up. You have skills that not many Americans can boast of, that you speak a foreign language fluently, or close to it. It sounds incredibly corny and lame to claim that you grow as a person, but you feel it upon returning. Finally, you have become a more critical thinker, with an international awareness that understands that the United States is not the only country in the world. -Du hast nicht nur etwas wunderschönes erlebt, sondern auch etwas ganz schwieriges überlebt. Herzlichen Glückwunsch zu deinem Abschluss!- Map Key 1. Main train station. This is where you’ll be when you first arrive in Marburg and will be your means of traveling outside of Marburg. 2. University building in which German classes for international students are taught. Other liberal arts classes are taught here as well, such the Medieval German Literature course I took. 3. Administration building. The International Office, or Auslandsamt, is located here. At the beginning of the semester you will perform your student registration, matriculation, after you have registered with the city and received your student visa. This is also where you will deregister, Exmatrikulation, from the university at the end of your semester or year. Here in the Auslandsamt you will obtain your transcripts. 4. University building for the foreign language departments. Your German professor’s office is here. If you take courses in any other foreign language, many are held in this building. There is a computer lab here, though it is only open until 5 p.m. 5. Student Cafeteria (Mensa) Your orientation will take place here. On the top floor you will find the Studentenwerk. This office deals with all aspects of student living. Dorm rent payments are made here. When the semester/ year is over, you will complete dormitory deregistration here and receive your security deposit money. 6. Mediamarkt on the upper floor and Tegut on the lower floor. At Mediamarkt you can pretty much find anything you would find at a Best Buy or Circuit City in the US. This is where you can purchase a cheap pre-pay cell phone. Tegut is a German chain grocery store with moderate prices. Their prices are slightly higher than those of the other chain grocery stores Lidl and Aldi’s, but you will find a wider array of goods and produce that I found to be of higher quality. There is also a hair salon on the lower floor with reasonable prices. 7. One of the many internet cafes to be found in Marburg, though this is probably one of the cheapest. In addition, there are international payphones there. In your first days in Germany, this will be the best way to make contact with friends and relatives back at home. 8. This is the main cinema in Marburg. Though some months behind movie releases in the States (I assume for the time it takes to translate an entire movie,) this theater offers a large selection of films to see and has top quality facilities. They also publish a brochure every two weeks that lists the new movies and their show times. Almost all films are shown in German; though on the occasion they have a “language original” movie. When the new Harry Potter movie came out, they had showings both in German and in English. 9. This is the Marburg office for transportation (Stadtwerke). Here you will purchase a temporary bus pass at the beginning of your semester and as the semester approaches you will then buy your semester ticket. 10. Here is the Savigny House. Though this building is mainly concerned with those studying law, the main computer lab is located on the fourth floor. This is where you will register for computer use after you have completed your Matrikulation. Remember that the computer lab is only open until 9 p.m., so don’t count on staying any longer! 11. This is the “downtown” Tegut, as I like to call it. I found that they have a larger selection here than the Tegut under Mediamarkt, but I never really ascertained whether or not that was true. For the most part it’s a bit more convenient because it’s right next to the other grocery stores, Lidl and Aldi’s. 12. Here is the T-Com (Deutsche Telecom) store. If you are interested in wireless internet for your laptop, these are the guys to do it. Beware though that the process of getting internet through them may be arduous, tedious and long-lasting. You could get lucky, however, and have it within a few weeks. I knew people who had both results, though more experienced the former. 13. Aldi’s grocery store. Super cheap prices, but not a large selection. 14. Mall area. You will find stores for shopping on the upper floor and Lidl on the lower floor (grocery shopping.) If you take the elevator on the upper floor you will reach the office that will give you your health insurance confirmation (Versicherungsbescheinigung). As well, there is a store on the lower floor next to Lidl where you can purchase cheap kitchenware, along with other necessities. Across from this building is an H&M (popular European clothing store with good prices) and between the H&M and the mall is a path leading up to the Altstadt or historical district. Continuing up this way will lead you to the castle! 15. Marburg Castle (Marburger Schloss). There is a beautiful view of the city from here. The castle itself has been turned into a museum, and for a small fee you can explore it on your own. 16. University Library. There is a computer lab here, and a large one at that. 17. If you elect to partake in the pre-semester intensive language course (Sprachkurs), your classes will be held here. The language lab (Sprachenzentrum) is also located here, so if you decide you want to learn another foreign language while in Germany, you can do it here. Languages offered are French, English, Spanish, Italian, Russian and Chinese (at the time I was there.) You can also continue to work on your German here during the semester if you wish. 18. Here is a small alcove filled with restaurants. You can find Chinese, Pizza and Mexican here. The most important building here for me was the Italian café. They have the best coffee I have ever tasted and Gelato to die for. If you’re looking for something quicker, Tchibo brews a good cup. Don’t be shocked by the size though. Portions are normally smaller in European countries. As well, you can find a reasonably priced Döner shop here. 19. Another Lidl, down the street from the main train station. Frankfurt International Airport Marburg Intensive German Program