PHYE 164 – Intermediate Rock Climbing
Spring 2010 - College of Southern Idaho (CSI)
Instructor: Shawn Willsey
Office Phone: 732-6421
Office: Evergreen A-18
Email: swillsey@csi.edu
Class Meeting: Wednesday, March 10 from 5:00 to 6:50 pm
Class Trip: Monday, March 15 to Saturday, March 20. Travel to southwestern Utah.
REQUIRED Text: Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills, Luebben, The Mountaineers Books, 2004
Optional guidebook: Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah, Goss, Sharp End Publishing, 2006
Prerequisite: Successful completion of PHYE 133 or approval of instructor. Students need to have a solid
foundation of basic climbing skills such as belaying, tying in, and fundamental climbing movement.
Course Description: This course prepares the student to safely climb on their own in an unsupervised setting
and builds upon the basic skills learned in PHYE 133. Course content includes safely evaluating a climb,
building anchor systems, rope management, rappelling, self rescue, and improving climbing technique. The
course includes at least one multi-day trip to local climbing areas. Students must furnish or rent his/her basic
climbing equipment.
Welcome to intermediate rock climbing. The primary goal of this course is to enhance your basic climbing
skills and provide you with the skills and techniques needed to climb safely on your own. Lead climbing will be
demonstrated and discussed, but students will not participate in lead climbing in this course. Students should
develop a fitness regimen that will improve their overall climbing improvement including coordination, strength,
endurance, and flexibility.
Climbing is dangerous!! CSI faculty and staff will do all possible to minimize the risk associated with
this course. We however cannot eliminate it. By participating in this class you are accepting
substantial risk and are personally responsible for your safety and that of others. If you are unsure of
your ability perform any task in this class ask before you expose yourself or others to this risk.
Course Objectives and Evaluations:
1)
Outcome:
Be proficient at tying basic and advanced knots used in rock climbing.
Assessment: Students will take a knot test where they must successfully demonstrate
approximately ten important knots used in climbing and explain the use of each knot.
2)
Outcome:
Be able to safely establish a variety of anchor systems using natural and artificial
protection.
Assessment: Students will take an anchor test where they must build a safe, equalized anchor
system using a limited amount of gear. Each anchor will be inspected and evaluated by the instructor.
3)
Outcome:
Be able to safely descend a cliff by rappelling.
Assessment: Students will practice these skills with classmates and the instructor.
4)
Outcome:
Learn basic rescue skills used in emergency situations.
Assessment: Students will practice these skills with classmates and the instructor.
5)
Outcome:
Expand the student’s knowledge base associated with the climbing environment.
Assessment: Students will take weekly quizzes that require demonstration of this knowledge.
Grading:
Attendance:
Knot Test:
Anchor Test:
Daily Quizzes (5 @ 15 pts):
TOTAL:
200 points
50 points
25 points
75 points
350 points
90% to 100% = A
80% to 89% = B
70% to 79% = C
60% to 69% = D
60 to 0% = F
Class Rules: Smoking, profanity, tobacco, alcohol, drugs, firearms, and fireworks are strictly prohibited at all
class activities.
Attendance: Attendance is a large part of your grade. You will need to be present and participate for all class
activities during our week together in southwestern Utah. All students must ride in CSI vans.
Knot Test: All climbers should know how to tie and use several basic knots. Through practice and repetition,
you will learn about 11 knots and their applications. Your text is a good resource for most of these knots or you
can also go to the following site which shows step-by-step animations for tying these knots:
http://www.animatedknots.com/ At the end of the trip, you will be asked to demonstrate these knots with no
hesitations or difficulties, dress and set them appropriately and explain their specific purpose. The knots you will
need to know are listed below. Additional knots may be assigned.
 Figure Eight Follow Through (tie-in knot)
 Figure Eight on a Bight
 Figure Eight Bend with Fisherman’s Back-up
 Double Fisherman’s Knot
 Prusik Hitch
 Clove Hitch
 Munter Hitch
 Girth Hitch
 Mule Tie-off
 Butterfly Knot
 Water Knot (aka Ring Bend)
Anchor Test: Establishing safe, sound anchors is an essential component of climbing. For this test, you and a
partner will be given a limited amount of gear and asked to establish one or more solid, appropriate toprope
anchor(s) using natural and/or artificial protection. The safety and integrity of each anchor system will be
evaluated by the instructor. The time and date of the anchor test will be given in the field.
Quizzes: Each morning will consist of a (closed-book) quiz from assigned chapters of the text. These quizzes
will be taken prior to our climbing activity. Be sure to have a pen or pencil handy in camp to take these quizzes.
No late or make-up quizzes will be given.
Equipment Needed: Students will need to bring the following UIAA-approved climbing equipment to class:
helmet, harness, and climbing shoes. Climbing equipment will be provided by the PE department or students
may wish to purchase their own gear locally at RiverRat (735-8697). Belay devices, ropes, and all climbing
hardware will be provided. Students will need to wear comfortable, loose-fitting clothing appropriate for climbing
outdoors under diverse weather conditions. A backpack to carry gear, food, and water is also required.
Other Requirements:
1)
Health History Form (return promptly to instructor): If anything on the health history changes during the
course of the semester (pregnancy, medications, injuries, etc.), please notify the instructor immediately.
2)
Comfortable clothing that allows freedom of movement.
3)
Additional course fee of $100.00 (paid with tuition).
4)
Once the course is completed, you will either be asked to complete the online course evaluation at
https://evaluation.csi.edu or you will be given a written evaluation during class time. Completing the
evaluation will earn you five extra points.
CSI E-mail:
E-mail is the primary source of written communication with all CSI students. Students automatically get a CSI email account when they register for courses. Messages from instructors and various offices such as Admission
and Records, Advising, Financial Aid, Scholarships, etc. will be sent to the students’ CSI accounts (NOT their
personal e-mail accounts). It is the students’ responsibility to check their CSI e-mail accounts regularly.
Failing to do so will result in missing important messages and deadlines. Students can check their CSI e-mail
online at http://students.csi.edu. Student e-mail addresses have the following format:
username@students.csi.edu. At the beginning of each semester free training sessions will be offered to
students who need help using their CSI e-mail accounts.
Disability Statement:
Any student with a documented disability may be eligible for related accommodations. To determine eligibility
and secure services, students should contact the coordinator of Disability Services at their first opportunity after
registration for a class. Student Disability Services is located on the second floor of the Taylor Building on the
Twin Falls Campus. Contact Candida Mumford at (208)732-6260 (voice) or (208) 734-9929 (TTY) or e-mail
cmumford@csi.edu
Online Course Evaluation Statement:
Students are strongly encouraged to complete evaluations at the end of the course. Evaluations are very
important to assist the teaching staff to continually improve the course. Evaluations are available online at
http://evaluation.csi.edu. Evaluations open up two weeks prior to the end of the course. The last day to complete
an evaluation is the last day of the course. During the time the evaluations are open, students can complete the
course evaluations at their convenience from any computer with Internet access, including in the open lab in the
Library and in the SUB. When students log in, they should see the evaluations for the courses in which they are
enrolled. Evaluations are anonymous. Filling out the evaluation should only take a few minutes. Your honest
feedback is greatly appreciated!
College of Southern Idaho Mission Statement:
The College of Southern Idaho, a comprehensive community college, provides educational, social and cultural
opportunities for a diverse population of South Central Idaho. In this rapidly changing world, CSI encourages our
students to lead enriched, productive and responsible lives.
Intermediate Rock Climbing – Spring 2010
Tentative Class Schedule
Day
Date
Topics
Activities
Text Reading
Location
Wed
3/10
Course intro
Trip Logistics
Food Survey
Course overview
Climbing discussion
Review of climbing gear
Basic knot tying
Rope management
Syllabus
CSI gym, room 236
Mon to Sat
3/15 to 3/20
Review of basic skills
Climbing gear
Belaying
Knots
Cleaning a route
Belay Anchors
Face and crack climbing
technique
Getting down
Self rescue skills
Preparing to lead
Daily quizzes from chapters
Toprope climbing
Placing and cleaning gear
Building toprope anchors
Anchor Test
Rappelling
Knot Test
Chap 3, 4, and 6
Chap 5 and 7
Chap 1 and 2
Chap 11
Chap 14
Various climbing
locations in
southwestern Utah
Southwestern Utah Trip Information
Weather: Expect mild days (~60° F) and cold evenings (~35° F) at Snow Canyon State Park. Some crags may
be at lower or higher elevations and may therefore be a bit cooler or warmer. We will try to climb in the sun
when we can. Rain or even snow is a possibility this time of year so be prepared.
Transportation: Students may only ride in the CSI van during the trip. CSI vehicles will only be driven by a
CSI instructor (or other authorized person).
Accommodations: We will be staying in tents at Snow Canyon. The campground has restrooms and showers
on site. Tents may not be co-ed unless students are married. In order to save space at the campground and in
the van, tents will need to be shared. We will respect and observe all campground rules, including quiet hours
from 10 pm to 7 am.
Food: We will be preparing meals together as a group in camp. We will discuss food specifics at our first
meeting. You will be placed in groups and assigned meals to prepare or cleaning duty. In general, breakfast
will be light, sack lunches will be taken with us into the field, and we will cook dinners as a group. You should
bring any snacks you will need to supplement this.
Money: You will need to bring some money to purchase snacks and a few dinners in town or on travel days
(see itinerary).
Cell Phones: Cell phone use is not allowed during the day when we are climbing. Save your texts and calls for
downtime (after dinner).
Safety: The desert environment of southwestern Utah has several hazards. You must completely adhere to
any safety rules provided by your instructor or park personnel. Rock faces and cliffs are no place to behave
carelessly. Be sure to stay with the group and notify the instructor of where you will be. Everyone must
adhere to the buddy system and never venture anywhere alone. I will not take you anywhere that I am not
comfortable with, but if you are uncomfortable at any point, please let me know.
PERSONAL EQUIPMENT CHECK LIST
These are some suggested items for you to take on the trip. Place all items (except tents and sleeping bags
and items to go in your climbing daypack) inside one soft duffel bag or backpack. Remember that less is better,
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Harness, helmet, climbing shoes
Climbing daypack
Fleece Jacket
Rain Jacket – light weight, weather-proof, large enough to go over several layers
Clothing
T-shirts (short and long sleeved)
Climbing pants
Climbing shorts
Beanie or other warm hat
Hiking/Approach shoes or boots
Sweatshirt, fleece, or sweater
Swimsuit and towel
in-camp shoes
Socks
Sunglasses and sunscreen
Climbing textbook, paper, and pencils/pens
Camera and film (extra batteries and memory cards)
Sleeping bag, sleeping pad, and pillow
Tent with rain fly (share with fellow travelers)
Ground cloth
Toiletries (soap, shampoo, lotion, toothbrush, toothpaste, wash cloth, prescription medications)
First-aid items (Band-Aids, chap stick, Tylenol, antihistamines)
Water bottles (2)
Extra cash/credit card
Headlamp with new batteries
Insulated mug with lid
Silverware (fork, knife, and spoon)
Sack lunch and snack foods for first travel day
Snacks for the week
Camp chair
In-camp games: hackey sack, cards, etc.
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