RABBITS
Information Compliments of:
Dr. Vanessa Rolfe
The Bird & Exotic Hospital, Inc.
6147 Lake Worth Rd.
Greenacres, FL 33463
561.964.2121
WHY WE RECOMMEND WELLNESS VISITS
Many of the diseases of birds, reptiles, and exotic animals are preventable and are often due to a
misunderstanding of proper care and feeding.
Since exotics may hide symptoms late into the course of illness, even “healthy” animals need
regular physical examinations. If problems are detected early they usually are more easily
treated. We have a special interest in these animals and keep up to date with new medical
developments in the field.
During your wellness visit we examine your pet to detect early signs of illness. We review your
questions and concerns and provide guidance on care and nutrition. We explain diagnostic and
treatment options. A partnership between us to optimize your companion’s care is one of the best
ways to keep your pet healthy and to minimize dangerous and costly illness.
THE BIRD & EXOTIC HOSPITAL OFFERS:
√ Wellness consultations for birds and exotic pets
√ Medical care for sick and injured birds and exotic pets
√ Grooming such as wing or nail trims
√ Boarding
√ Diagnostic, surgical, and x-ray procedures
√ Microchipping for identification
√ Vaccinations
√ Consultations for behavior problems and prevention
strategies
√ Demonstrations on handling, monitoring health, medicating,
and dealing with emergencies
√ Emergency care available
RABBIT CARE
Rabbits are very social animals and often make wonderful pets, and can live up to seven to
nine years. There are many breeds with different physical and behavior characteristics. The
domesticated rabbit originated from the wild European rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus.
NUTRITION
A diet for an adult rabbit should be made up of primarily grass hays (such as timothy and
orchard grass hay) with a small amount of quality pellets added. Alfalfa is a legume hay not
grass so it should be limited in adult rabbits.
There are a number of formulated pellets sold for rabbits. As a mainstay, these are
appropriate for young, growing rabbits, but are too high in calories and low in fiber to make
up a main part of an adult’s diet. Pellets used should be fresh and high-quality and should
not contain corn/wheat/seed/cereal tidbits. For up to 6-8 months of age, pellets can be
given as free choice with some good grass hay. After 6-8 months of age rabbits are no longer
growing and then the majority of the diet should be grass hays. Pellets should be limited to
no more than 1/8 cup per 4 pounds of body weight. Treats in small amounts can be dark
green leafy vegetables such as kale, collard, dandelion, clover, endive, carrot tops, outer
cabbage leaves and alfalfa hay (a legume hay not a grass hay). Other treats in very tiny
amounts include carrots, summer squash, green pepper, and high-fiber fruits such as apple,
peach, strawberry, and papaya.
NOTE: Make changes in the diet slowly. The rabbits digestive systems are sensitive, and if
you change the diet too fast, they can get intestinal upset. Gradually make your changes and
watch to make sure the rabbit is adapting well.
Non-soluble fiber is one of the most important parts of your rabbits diet. Fiber is used in the
digestive tract for good function and will decrease hair buildup in the stomach as well as
controlling soft stools. Hay should be the main source.
Starches/ carbohydrates on the other hand will upset the proper function of the digestive
tract and cause obesity and predispose them to digestive upset and dental problems. So
therefore, do not give high-starch foods such as grains, seeds, breads or crackers, and do not
use pellet mixes that include them.
Always provide water, in bowls or preferably from bottles to keep the water clean. However,
both bottles and bowls should be cleaned daily.
HOUSING
Keep rabbits in cages with wire-bottoms or ideally in bedding. With wire, part of the floor
should be solid to prevent foot infections. Use bedding such as hardwood chips (aspen),
corncob, straw, or shredded paper. Avoid pine, cedar chips and chlorophyll wood chips
(green), as they can be irritating. Change bedding often, to prevent ammonia from building
up-- if you can smell it is too strong.
Be very careful about allowing rabbits to roam unsupervised, because they can chew on
dangerous things, including electrical cords and poisonous substances. One can make a small
area of the house “rabbit-proof” for some freedom. You should be able to teach them to use
a litter box.
Your bunny may like a place to hide in its cage for a sense of security. Rabbits can be very
susceptible to heatstroke-- to prevent this, give shade and an icepack, or bring into a cool
room if it is too hot.
Rabbits are intelligent, social animals. Many rabbits do best when they are kept with another
rabbit for company and will thrive on your attention as well. They will also enjoy toys and
they can learn to play. Give chewing toys (bleached bones or antlers, rawhide (discard when
wet), clothespins (no metal), and rabbit-rodent chewtoys) but also provide toys that can be
thrown around and jumped upon.
HANDLING
Never pick up rabbits by the ears. Lift up by placing a hand under the chest, holding the
front legs between fingers; then sliding the other hand under the hindquarters hold the back
legs firmly between fingers. Alternatively, place a towel over the back and tuck it under the
legs as you lift it. CAUTION: Their backbones are fragile, and the kicking of the powerful
hind legs can break the back. Never routinely try to overpower a struggling rabbit.
WHEN SHOULD MY RABBIT SEE A VETERINARIAN?
Have your rabbit examined at least annually for a wellness visit although sometimes every six
months is ideal. Fecal examinations can check for parasites, some of which can be
dangerous.
Hair can build up in the stomach when rabbits do not have enough fiber in the diet. Unlike
cats, rabbits are not able to vomit this “hairball”. Fiber will assist the rabbit in having a
digestive system that moves normally and keeps hair from building up. You can also brush
to remove loose hair, and give papain (enzyme tablets available at health food stores).
Dental disease is one of the most common problems seen by rabbit veterinarians. All teeth
of the rabbit (both the front, and the back ones you cannot see) grow continuously and the
diet (especially fiber) plays a great role in keeping healthy teeth.
We recommend surgical spaying or castration. Females become extraordinarily prone to
uterine cancer and males may become aggressive and territorial.
There are many medical problems that are possible with rabbits. They typically hide
symptoms until they are very sick. Watch carefully for signs of illness, including: behavior
change, discharge, salivation, difficulty breathing, change in the droppings, lumps, and
anything out of the ordinary, even if your friend “just doesn’t look like itself.”
A good source of general information is the House Rabbit Society and they can be found at
www.rabbit.org.
This handout is not to substitute for veterinary care or advice. If you have any questions,
please feel free to call the number at the top of this page.
COPYRIGHT THE BIRD & EXOTIC HOSPITAL, INC. 2008