Premier’s Westfield History Scholarship
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In the footsteps of the Dorians
Mark Adams
John Paul College, Coffs Harbour
Sponsored by
The Dorians, an ancient ethnic group closely associated with the Spartans, other
Peloponnesian states and Crete, moved down into central and southern Greece in the
later part of the second millennium BC and the beginning of the first millennium BC.
Their movement initiated the Greek migrations and the consequent spread of Greek
civilisation throughout the Aegean Sea area and on the Asia Minor coast. In the millennia
that followed, the path the Dorians traversed has been followed by the great civilisations
of classical Greece and Rome and the Ottomans. In more recent times have seen this
ancient area play a significant role in the history of Australia and has been pivotal in
helping us to identify who we are as a nation.
While the main purpose of this study tour was to develop my knowledge and
understanding of the Stage 6 Ancient History syllabus, it has also made a significant
contribution to my understanding and knowledge of the Stage 4 and 5 syllabi. Travel in
Greece and Turkey allows us to gain a better understanding those cultures and to
celebrate the similarities and differences between them. At the same time, we celebrate
our common humanity and recognise what we have achieved.
Istanbul was the first stop and the first significant historical building visited was the
ancient and amazing Hagia Sophia. Situated in the heart of the old city of Istanbul, this
church (which later became a mosque) immediately demonstrates the historical ebb and
flow of this area of the world. Built by the Romans as a Christian church, it was
converted into a mosque, not only reflecting the spread of Islam and the decline of the
Roman Empire, but also showing how change and continuity can be represented in an
historical site. Changes were made to hide its Christian heritage, and now the current
Turkish Government has come to recognise its historical significance to the world. From
a teaching perspective, Hagia Sophia can become the basis of a research task or a class
task looking at how and why a church becomes a mosque? Or by looking at this one
building we can develop in our students a better understanding of the changing
relationships between nations and religions in that area of the world. There is added
value in the Stage 6 syllabus as issues about ownership and preservation of the past and
the factors which may influence it are questioned.
Istanbul also provides an insight into the grandeur of the Ottoman Turks through the
restored Topkapi Palace and its harem buildings, reinforcing the differences between the
cultures of the East and the West. The National Museum of Archaeology, located in the
same area of the city as the Topkapi Palace, allows us to see the size and diversity of the
ancient Persian Empire. Its Roman collection shows the extent and power of the Roman
Empire and how the Romans deified their Emperors. The museum’s various collections
also provide materials about the way we interpret (or sometimes misinterpret) the past;
for example, the ‘Sarcophagus of Alexander’, which is actually probably that of a noble
of Sidon. It also shows through its collection of Cretan heads the way one place has been
controlled and influenced by at least four different, significant ancient societies.
Gallipoli was the next stop on the study tour and was truly a site worthy of two visits.
Not only does the name ‘Gallipoli’ resonate throughout Australian history and have a
significant role in the way we define our national character, but also the Dardenelles has
been a strategically significant site throughout world history. To see the narrowness of
the straits immediately emphasises why it would have been possible for Xerxes to build
his ‘bridge of boats’ or why control of this area was so important to the ancient Greeks,
Romans and Persians. Visiting the entire peninsula also reminds us that Australians and
New Zealanders were not the only ones to fight and die in this place. It has consumed
the bodies of British, French and Turk soldiers alike. From a historian’s point of view,
this site reminds us that there are two sides to every story and that, while the Gallipoli
campaign was important to our developing sense of nation, it is seen as the pivotal
moment in the establishment of the modern Turkish Republic. It also demonstrates the
power of language, as a dead Turkish soldier becomes a martyr to a greater cause.
To walk among the graves of young Australians in such a far away place is a humbling
experience. To stand in front of the grave of John Simpson-Kirkpatrick and realise that
he was only in the war for three weeks is to better understand the power of image and
legend. To wander along Anzac Cove and look up is to appreciate the difficulty of the
task that confronted the Anzacs on 25 April 1915. Such experiences convert the teaching
of Australian history from a professional task to something which resonates with passion
and empathy.
Troy, the next significant stop on the study tour, was fascinating. Walking among the
ruins of this legendary place takes one to the beginnings of modern ancient history and
archaeology. It is also here that we see how the modern Turkish Republic and
archaeologists seek to protect ancient sites and to address the delicate balance between
tourism and all its benefits and pitfalls with the need to maintain the historical integrity
of historical sites. Indeed, this is one of the areas that the tour has emphasised, the way
modern governments in all countries try to match the desire to preserve and protect
areas of historical significance with the desires of increasingly educated, affluent and
mobile tourists to access those areas. This critical question permeates all aspects of the
Stage 6 Syllabus.
From Troy the tour took me to the modern city of Bergama, home of ancient
Pergamum. As you travel along the coast of Turkey towards Bergama, it becomes clear
why the Greeks colonised the coast as the mountains to the east provide a formidable
barrier. The acropolis of Pergamum is simply breathtaking, even if some of the
reconstruction seems a little unnecessary. This site has an excellent level of preservation
and really gives a strong indication of what life would have been like in this period. This
is certainly one place which surprised and delighted.
From Bergama to Kusadasi via Izimir was a driving experience never to be forgotten—
especially as a missed turn saw this tired tourist end up on a Turkish beach. Kusadasi
itself seems to be the Turkish equivalent of the Gold Coast, yet its position allows for
access to some significant historical sites which vary extensively in their levels of
reconstruction and ease of tourist access. Ephesus provided a perfect example of the
desire of governments and archaeologists to match the demands of tourism with the
need for conservation and preservation. A number of structures and buildings in this
ancient city have been reconstructed, and while there I was able to observe modern
workmen ‘repairing’ parts of the site. Given what has been written by those who have
been involved in the reconstruction of Pompeii and the issues relating to the problems of
modern cements, I was amazed to see these workmen using modern cements. After
visiting Ephesus it became really clear that the levels of reconstruction at historical sites
will become an increasingly significant issue for historians and the teaching of history.
We must begin to ask ourselves if we are loving these popular historic sites to death.
By contrast to Ephesus, the ruins of both Miletus and Priene have significantly less
reconstruction and tourist activity, yet they suffer from other significant issues such as
the impact of weed growth, lack of security and lack of protection. Like Ephesus and
Troy before them, to visit these once thriving seaports five kilometres from the modern
coastline is to better understand the impact that human activity and time can have on
historical sites. The last significant action of the Persian invasion of Greece occurred at
Mycale and was nominally a naval engagement close to Priene which is now land-locked.
Across the ‘bay’ from Priene lies ancient Miletus with its magnificent amphitheatre and
links to the Greek colonisation movements. It was the centre of the Ionian Revolt,
beginning the historical period in the current Ancient History syllabus (Greek World
500–440), and was also the city whose dispute with Samos saw Athens intervene on their
behalf and destroy the independence of the Samians and conveniently provide the last
action of the historical period already mentioned. One aspect of the preservation of
ancient sites that was raised in Miletus was the impact of changing environmental
conditions. This site now has significant problems with water covering areas of the old
city. It was also possible to see the difference the impact of tourism and advertising can
make to the money spent on the preservation of sites. Ephesus, undoubtedly a significant
ancient site, is much closer to the tourist centre of Kusadasi and seemingly more
‘popular’ than the other two sites. Consequently, the level of work in preservation and
restoration is much greater.
The ferry trip from Kusadai in Turkey to Samos (Greece) was very short and provided an
extra day to explore Samos and reinforce the concept that maps are political entities.
Hiring a car and driving around much of the island it is amazing to realise that the actual
distance between Samos and Turkey is very small—much smaller than is reflected on
many of the maps available to tourists. It also emphasised why Samos was such an
important place in the ancient world and why its alliance or control was so important to
the ancient Athenians.
Mykonos was the next port of call, primarily because it provides access to the Island of
Delos, legendary birthplace of Apollo and Artemis. Its historical and cultural significance
is emphasised by the lack of substantial development on the island. A visit here is
essential for anyone who studies or teaches the Delian League or the Athenian Empire.
Delos is the central island of the Cycladic Islands and according to my guide is free from
earthquakes (a ‘fact’ that the ancients knew and a reason why it was so important to
them). Clearly Delos was blessed by the gods.
From Mykonos I travelled to Santorini and the ancient city of Akrotiri. Again just
travelling through this area by ferry emphasised how the Greeks could travel by day
without passing out of the site of land, as there are islands and outcrops everywhere,
some of which do not appear on standard maps. The caldera is simply breathtaking and
certainly worthy of the hype and images that surround it. It leaves an indelible impression
of the size of the events which sent ancient Thira into the realms of myth as possibly the
lost city of Atlantis.
Unfortunately the accident which closed the site of Akrotiri last year (part of a shelter
over the archaeological site collapsed, killing a British tourist) meant that it was still
inaccessible at the time of my visit. According to one of the assistants at the excellent
museum of Akrotiri in modern Fira, the site was still closed because they are waiting for
the conclusion of a coronial enquiry. The assistant also pointed out that the damage to
the site was limited, with the majority of the site bring relatively undamaged. Despite this
disappointment, the museums of Fira were well worth the trip, particularly the main
museum which gave an excellent insight into the life of this ancient civilisation. The
accident at Akrotiri does emphasise the dangers of preservation and conservation of
ancient sites. In attempts to protect these places, care is constantly needed to ensure that
any actions do more good than harm.
While on Santorini I discovered that on a good day you could see Crete. While I was
there we didn’t have any good days because I did not see Crete until I arrived there by
high-speed ferry. The main focus of the tour on Crete included the Minoan civilisation,
particularly the ancient cities of Knossos and Phaistos, and also visiting memorials to the
Australians who fought and died on Crete in World War II.
The Palace of Knossos, made famous by Arthur Evans, was something of a
disappointment. Knossos was the first place I learnt about when I began my ancient
history adventure in 1977, so I was quite excited about visiting this site. However, the
level of reconstruction and the cement which covers some parts of the site really
challenged my sense of reality. From a general tourism perspective, the reconstruction
helps give a sense of the grandeur of this majestic civilisation, but from a teaching
perspective we might wonder at the interpretation (and possible misinterpretations) that
have occurred. It was fascinating to note that the reconstructions of Evans are now in
need of repair.
In contrast, Phaistos left much more to the imagination and gave a better sense of the
realities of ancient sites. As with many of the sites I visited, it became apparent that each
ancient civilisation layered itself on top of the previous society and I became increasingly
aware of the powerful historic movements that have occurred over the centuries.
A visit to the Australian Memorial at Rethymno shows that, despite the impact of World
War II on the modern world, the legacy of the Nazi invasions is significantly less than the
long-term impacts of the Romans, Minoans, Turks and Venetians. As with the visit to
Gallipoli, it is with a sense of pride that we can observe the respect that these foreign
places afford Australian soldiers’ commitments and sacrifices. While time did not allow
me to visit the new war cemetery 70 kilometres up the coast, it was enough to see the
impact that our ‘new’ nation has had on this most ancient island.
The archaeological museum in Iraklion is a minor marvel. To wander through and
observe much that has been excavated from Minoan sites on Crete is to wander through
the pages of innumerable textbooks and see for yourself the items and images that
teachers have been using to teach this aspect of Ancient History for the past 20 years. My
frustration at Knossos was blown away by this treasure trove of Minoan civilisation.
For the final part of the tour I travelled from Crete to Greece. Arriving in Athens on
their Holy Thursday makes the movement out of Sydney at Easter and Christmas look
like the main street of a country town on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Despite the horrors of
the traffic, Meteora was worth the struggle. Visually, the monasteries did not look as
impressive as the photos and television programs had made them seem, yet to learn of
their history is to give them a greater significance than just being visually appealing. The
Great Meteoron, the first of the monasteries to be built, became not only the centre of
the Greek Orthodox religion during the Turkish occupation, but it was also the protector
of aspects of the classical Greek culture while playing a significant role in the Greek
independence movement of the 1820s.
Delphi, Olympia, Epidarius, Mycenaea and Corinth all contributed to my rapidly
developing understanding of the ancient Greeks. Any movement in this area of the
Peloponnese emphasises the difficulties of the ancient societies to move freely at
different times of the year. It is also interesting to be driving through mountain valleys
and observe the sites of ancient battlefields such Oenophyta and Tanagra. Some of the
sites and the tour as a whole were disrupted by the Greek’s adherence to the sanctity of
Easter Sunday. Yet this disruption created opportunities to visit other sites that
developed my understanding of the achievements and nature of the ancient Greeks. The
highlight of this section of the tour was a visit to the Temple of Epicurean Apollo at
Bassae, the most complete Greek temple in the Peloponnese. The importance of this
historical site, located 1300 metres above sea level, is emphasised by the level of
protection it has been given through the construction of a massive tent-like structure that
protects it from the elements. Unlike buildings which find themselves in the middle of
major cities or which are conveniently accessible for tourist buses, this site has been
protected by its isolation from tourism as well as from the impact of the industrial
developments of the last 100 years.
The last stop on my journey was Athens, with its obvious links to the senior ancient
history syllabus. Wandering through the Agora and the Keramikos develops an
understanding of life in Periclean Athens and the impact on Classical Athens of the
Delian League and the Athenian Empire. A visit to the Acropolis reveals the enormous
difficulty involved in maintaining such a historically and commercially significant site.
Scaffolding dominates and parts of the buildings are missing as they are constantly
removed for repairs and restoration. The question of rebuilding the Acropolis seems
superfluous as the maintenance of the site seems to consume so much time and money
that it would seem improbable that the Greek government could ever do any thing more
than conserve the site in its current condition.
All the museums of Athens added significantly to my understanding of the history that I
teach, though to stare into the mask of Agamemnon is to stare fully into the face of
critical questions which surround ancient history. How and why do we preserve the past?
How do we interpret the past? How do we allow access to the past? What do we learn
from the past?
The study tour scholarship has been a humbling experience and I feel honoured to have
been given the opportunity to further develop my skills and knowledge as a history
teacher and to fully appreciate the magnificence of the civilisations that have trodden the
path first established by the footsteps of the Dorians.