Sport Studies, Recreation & Athletics 248-A
Climbing Wall Instructor Course
Fall 2012
Class time/dates: Nov. 2-4, 2012 (20 hours total)
2-3 other class sessions: To be arranged with group
Tues. Sept. 18 5pm Informational session
Tues. Oct. 23rd: 6-7:30pm Practice session
Location: Climbing Wall
Instructor: Brien Sheedy
Office: Outdoor Program, G22 Reid Campus Center
Phone: 509-386-4375 E-mail: sheedybr@whitman.edu
Whitman Rate $165. Community rate: $240
Class Objective
This course is designed for experienced climbers interested in becoming climbing instructors. It is expected that all climbing wall instructor candidates have the necessary prerequisites prior to joining the class. Please read these prerequisites carefully. This class will focus on how to teach climbing skills and manage risks and liability concerns. The AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Course Curriculum will be taught along with additional topics relevant to the Whitman College climbing program.
Pre-requisites:
Must have Whitman College Lead climb and belay certification prior to the first day of class.
Must have completed a Whitman College Intermediate Climbing Class or received consent from the OP
Director.
18 years of age by end of semester.
At least one year documented personal climbing experience (a minimum of 20 outings climbing indoors and/or outdoors.) Prior teaching or have observed basic climbing courses are highly recommended.
Current first aid and CPR (a minimum of American Red Cross Basic – 5.5 to 6.5 hours.)
Climbing ability: 5.9 top rope and 5.8 lead for lead certification on artificial structures.
Assignments:
- Route setter bouldering clinic & vertical route setting clinic
- Sit in/observe a basics clinic or climbing class teaching harness use, figure eight follow through, commands, PBUS belay technique, movement presentation, bouldering
- Sit in/observe how to administer proficiency tests. Backup expectations. Practice testing. Basics clinics expectations. Lead clinic expectations.
- Gri gri/cinch demo/discussion. Teaching tips and ideas to help prepare.
- Arranged: class time week after course: Follow up on CWI course topics. Beginning and Intermediate topics not covered in CWI course
Required Class AMGA CWI Weekend Course:
Nov. 2-4, 2012
Friday, Nov. 2, 2012: 12-6pm
Saturday, Nov. 3, 2012: 8am-5pm
Sunday, Nov. 4, 2012: 8am-3pm
Class Requirements
Attendance is required for all classes and activities. This course is a 1-credit class and will be graded:

25% Completion of bouldering and vertical route setter clinics,
25% pre-test; climbing log and current first aid and CPR cards, lesson plans and presentations
50% Successful completion of weekend course
First Aid:
The OP requires Basic First Aid and CPR for climbing instructors as a minimum but prefers WFR, especially for scramble leaders. First Aid is not taught as part of this course but individuals expecting to receive AMGA certification and/or lead trips for the OP or SSRA Department will need to obtain it.
Mini Teaching topics:
Each student is required to present one mini topic to the class. (See AMGA manual for details)
Fees
The posted fee in the catalog for this class is $165. This fee will be taken directly out of your student account. The fee will cover AMGA instructor fees, climbing center rental equipment, AMGA membership.
Required equipment:
Equipment choice, quality and condition are areas in which you will be evaluated. Candidates should arrive with appropriate, professional-quality equipment, in good condition.
UIAA/CE-approved Climbing Harness
3 or more UIAA/CE-approved locking carabiners
1 tube or plate type belay/rappel device (e.g. an ATC or Reverso)
1 auto blocking type belay/rappel device (e.g. a GRIGRI or Cinch) (You are encouraged to buy and will get to option to purchase at cost (40% off)). You may also borrow from the OP for the class.
2 24inch nylon slings, or 2 prusik loops (3 to 4 ft of 6mm nylon accessory cord)
1 48‘ nylon sling
Climbing shoes
Chalk bag
Notebook and pencil/pen
Required Texts Provided:
AMGA CWI Course Participant Manual (Available from OP Director)
Whitman Climbing Manual (Borrow from climbing center)
Required Text Need to Buy:
Each participant needs to own a personal copy of a climbing instructional book that you will utilize for class preparation and also as a reference once you become an instructor. There are many possible options but the two below are good options:
NOLS Climbing Instructor Notebook (Available for sale at climbing center)
How to Rock climb by John Long (available for sale at the bookstore)