15th century Marzipan Castle

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Marzipan Castle
Lady Fiona Wiggins
Spain
Late 14th / early 15th century
Description
I am submitting a marzipan castle that measures 18 cm/7 inches tall.
History
Marzipan is generally considered to be Arabic in origin, coming to Europe during
the Crusades.1 Libre de Totes Maneres de Confits (Catalian book from the 14th century)
mentions a dish called “mersepa” where the ingredients and general proportions are
similar to that of later marzipans.2
I found that, as a general rule, most marzipan recipes hover around the one part
ground almonds/one part sugar measurement, with older recipes suggesting less sugar
and newer recipes suggesting more (most people agree that our sweet tooth’s have
increased). The recipe I used is from Libre de Totes Maneres de Confits and is in
Appendix A. I have also included a similar marzipan recipe from the 13th century book
Manuscrito Anonimo (appendix B).
A soteltie (also spelled sotletie or sotelty) was a food that was created into a shape
that was different than what the food actually is. Sotelties could also be spectacular and
used for table decorations as eye catchers, entertainment and as highlights for the whole
feast. Judging by the large documentation of sotelties, I can assume they were popular
throughout most of Europe during the Middle Ages and Renaissance.
I created a marzipan castle after reading about a castle made of sugar (appendix
C) in The Manuscrito Anonimo (13th century Andalusian manuscript)3. Castles made
from food items were also mentioned in Du Fait de Cuisine (1420 French), which
mentions a castle that was made to support many meat dishes (appendix D)4. Forme of
Curye (1390-1395 – England) gives a recipe for a pastry castle soteltie that was served
with meats and vegetables (appendix E).5
Since my original recipe for marzipan was dated from the 14th century, I
attempted to focus all of my documentation on the 13th and 14th centuries. I chose Spain
and France as my primary areas of documentation and have included documentation from
Middle Eastern sources due to large influence of that culture on Spain.
I found many Spanish castles that were standing in the late 1300’s or early 1400’s
and decided to model my marzipan castle on Arevalo castle in Spain, which was
originally built in the early 14th century. I found photos of the castle, as it looks today,
which included views of all of the sides.6 I have included all photos and descriptions of
the castle in Appendix F. Portions of the exterior wall were added in the 15th century
when the castle was used as a prison, so I have excluded these structures from my
marzipan version.
Materials in period and what I used
I made rose water by purchasing roses at a health food store (so they would be
free of preservatives) and soaking them in water for several weeks as the container sat in
the sun. The first attempt gave me water that didn’t smell or taste at all. I found several
recipes in Le Menagier de Paris for making rose water (both English and French
translations – Appendix G) One of them used a stronger heat source than the sun for
getting the scent and taste from the rose petals, another suggested crushing the petals
before soaking. I made a second batch using a different kind of roses (still without
preservatives), crushed them and heated them to almost a boil before soaking them for 2
weeks. It was much more successful.
For several weeks, every evening I put a new batch of almonds in water to soak
overnight, dried the batch from the night before and ground them in a mortar & pestle. I
mixed the almond powder with sugar and added a small amount of rose water. I colored
the marzipan slightly with cinnamon and nutmeg, which were both used in Europe in the
14th century7. I read in Stephen’s Florilegium that marzipan freezes well8 so I kept each
batch in the freezer until I was ready to thaw it all out and use it.
Le Viandier de Taillevant (French manuscript from 1380) discussed using forms
or skeletons of different materials under sotelties (appendix H).9 I constructed the keep of
my castle from thin mat board as the marzipan wouldn’t hold itself up and needed
support more than the outer walls. I cut the pieces out in the shapes I needed out of the
mat board, washed them well to remove any dust and used glue and a bit of tape to bond
them together. Although mat board isn't period, it bent well into the shape that I needed.
To make the walls of the castle, I rolled out large areas of marzipan and cut them
into the shapes I needed with a knife. I carefully pressed the marzipan pieces onto the mat
board to form the keep and gently pressed the wall pieces to the board that I built the
castle on so they would stay in place. I placed the marzipan roof on the castle without
permanently attaching it because I plan to fill it with sweets to present to Their Majesties
at feast.
I cut the crenellations out of the top section of the wall and the keep and added
them to the tops of the walls. I used a toothpick to make a texture that resembles brick in
the walls. I added the decorative V shaped sections just under the crenellations by
pushing a small piece of metal that was in the shape of a V into the marzipan. I then
carved out the doors and windows using the sharp end and the blunt handle side of the
knife for smoothing.
I tapped a small amount of cinnamon into the areas where the windows are inset
to give the impression of them being dark, hence being three-dimensional.
I sprinkled rose petals on the board the castle sits on to imitate fall leaves that
have fallen on the ground since this is a fall event.
Le Viandier de Taillevent mentions a castle made of pastry with banners of the
lords that were present at the meal (Appendix I) so I created a small Drachenwald banner
for my castle and placed it on the top of the keep - the highest part of the structure.
What I would do differently next time
I had some problems making the rose water and will do a little more research to
find out better options next time.
I would like to experiment with making higher and more intricate towers in the
future. Marzipan was difficult to work with in the beginning but once I figured out a few
tricks it went much easier. The idea of building bigger and higher using skeletal frames is
intriguing.
References
Primary Sources
Libre de Totes Maneres do Confits – original Spanish translation
http://www.staff.uni-marburg.de/~gloning/confits.htm
Castle soteltie – Manuscrito Anonimo
http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Cookbooks/Andalusian/andalusian9.htm#Hea
ding480
Marzipan recipe – 13th century – Manuscrito Anonimo
http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Cookbooks/Andalusian/andalusian9.htm#Hea
ding481
Du Fait de Cuisine – English translation
http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Cookbooks/Du_Fait_de_Cuisine/Du_fait_de_
Cuisine.html
Du Fait de Cuisine – Original French
http://visualiseur.bnf.fr/CadresFenetre?O=NUMM-83111&I=252&M=imageseule
Le Viandier de Taillevent – meat pies with banners
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/prescotj/data/viandier/viandier457.html
Le Viandier de Taillevent – framework & skeletons
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/prescotj/data/viandier/viandier465.html
Forme of Curye
http://www.ibiblio.org/pub/docs/books/gutenberg/etext05/8cury10.txt
Photos of castle Arevalo
http://www.castle.nl/eur/es/are/are.html
Rose water recipe – Le Menagier de Paris – English translation
http://www.gallowglass.org/jadwiga/herbs/rosewater.html
Rose water recipe – Le Menagier de Paris – French translation
http://visualiseur.bnf.fr/Visualiseur?Destination=Gallica&O=NUMM-83111
Secondary Sources
Food histories – marzipan and spices
http://www.foodtimeline.org/foodcandy.html
About Marzipan by Dame Alys Katherine
http://www.florilegium.org/files/FOOD-SWEETS/About-Marzipn-art.html
Freezing marzipanhttp://www.florilegium.org/files/FOOD-SWEETS/marzipan-msg.text
Spices used in Europe
http://www.menumagazine.co.uk/book/medieval.html
1
Food timeline pg. 31
Libre de Totes Maneres de Confits
3
Manuscrito Anonimo
4
Du Fait de Cuisine
5
Forme of Curye
6
castles.nl
7
menu magazine – history of spices
8
floilegium
9
Le Viandier de Taillevant
2
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