Llandovery Walkers are Welcome: Walk 9: the Twm Siôn Cati trail
This Walk takes us through the RSPB Reserve at Rhandirmwyn, firstly following the infant
Towy River as it storms and chatters its way downstream, and then clambering down to
Junction Pool before climbing steeply up to the hidden cave of Twm Siôn Cati, who is
sometimes perceived as the Welsh Robin Hood, “robbing the rich to reward the poor”,
before we follow a more serene and stately path around the oak and alder woodland of the
Reserve, and so make our way back to the start.
Among the birds to be seen in the Reserve are dippers, grey wagtails, pied flycatchers,
redchats, red kites and sandpipers.
This walk may be preceded or completed by a visit to the 12C Church of St. Paulinus, a
stalwart of the early Celtic Church, one revered as much in Brittany as in Wales.
A Car Park for up to twelve cars is provided at the RSPB Reserve.
The Royal Oak Inn and the Towy Bridge Inn are nearby hostelries well used to receiving
walking visitors.
The usual advice holds true for this walk: a map, waterproof clothing and stout shoes, food
and drink, a first aid kit and any personal medicine, a mobile phone …
Grade: moderate to difficult, with the difficulties largely associated with the climb up to Twm
Siôn Cati’s Cave and the walk down to Junction Pool.
Map: OS Explorer 187: Llandovery / Llanymddyfri
Distance: 5½kms
From the car park, follow the board walk constructed over the marshy ground, listening to the
bird song in the woodland amidst the chatter of the infant River Towy flowing speedily by,
until after perhaps 1 km of walking you can take time to rest a little on one of the rustic
benches provided in a wide open clearing. 1km.
From here, take the anti-clockwise circuit around Dinas Hill. The area opens up, and you find
yourself no longer walking on a boardwalk but on a rough, narrow, and stony path, one which
requires the greatest concentration and care. Stop if you want to fully take in the scene before
you, or to identify the call of a particular bird, for underfoot it might be very slippery – and
here it is impossible to both walk and look around you! As you proceed, the path becomes
more demanding, with short steep climbs being balanced by similar steep descents, while the
provision of a wooden stairway in places may be seen as something of a mixed blessing. 1km
Take time above Junction Pool to make some decisions: do you want to clamber down to the
river’s edge and fully take in the sight of the waters of the forceful Towy meeting and
combining with those of the more sedate Doethie? And more importantly, do you want to
clamber high up to the summit of Dinas and visit the reputed cave of the brigand himself, the
legendary Twm Siôn Cati? Both are possible, and both are memorable experiences – but both
need extreme care, especially if the rocky paths are at all wet and slippery. 1½ km
However, once these two decisions have been made, one way or the other, the rest of the
walk around the Reserve is much easier. The path becomes wider, firmer, and less
accentuated: you find yourself under a broad canopy of trees, and you can relax a little, and
feel satisfied with what you have achieved so far. The path describes a full circle and meets
up with itself again near the bench at the end of boardwalk. 2 km.
Your car is not far away and is soon reached. All that is left is for you to do is to make a few
decisions: are you going to visit the Church of St, Paulinus? And are you going to seek
refreshment at the Towy Bridge or the Royal Oak?