Tarp Shelters
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An introduction by DBM:
This page was contributed by "DBM", who requested that his email address not be listed.
It was supplied in Word doc format and converted automatically to html. The conversion may not be
perfect.
Q: What are Tarp-shelters?
A: Tarp-shelters are simple shelters made from a Vertical Support System, rope, ground stakes, a single
tarp (fabric or plastic), and ingenuity.
Q: What’s a Vertical Support System?
A: Any way or means of providing a fixed point above the ground, from which something can be hung
from, or hung on. VSS include traditional tent poles, internal or external frames (skeleton, shears), rope
slung between two supports (trees, etc), or an overhead suspension point (tree branch, etc).
Q: What sort of rope?
A: 6-millimetre poly or nylon rope is a good size, with 10-millimetre better in many situations. Smaller
diameter ropes may suffice, IF they’re ‘doubled’ up.
Q: What sort of ground stakes?
A: Tent and Fly stakes designed for ‘hard ground’ are often no more than a metal spike, and can pull out if
the ground is softened by rain. Tent and Fly stakes designed for ‘soft ground’, have shafts with an ‘angled’
or ‘star’ cross-section, and grip any sort of ground better than ‘spike’ stakes do – they may be harder to
hammer in, but they’re harder to get out as well!
Q: What sort of flexible material?
A: Canvas, nylon tent fabric, poly-tarps, or heavy-duty plastic sheeting like painter’s drop sheets. Ideally,
the material should be either a Square, or a Rectangle with the long side twice the length of the short
side.
Q: These ‘do-it-yourself’ designs look like some of the Tent and ‘Tarp-tent’ shelters sold in Camping
Stores, but without the £££ price tag. What gives?
A: Tents and ‘Tarp-tents’ sold in camping stores incorporate high quality of design, modern materials, and
professional manufacturing. These things cost extra, but guarantee durable and reliable service in extreme
situations and emergencies! For that matter, Tents sold in Camping Stores usually include insect nets that
keep out mosquitoes (and any diseases they carry!), and sewn-in tub floors that keep mud and water out
(not to mention ants, snakes and spiders).
Q: Oh… But can’t I put a groundsheet and insect mesh in a Tarp-shelter?
A: You could try, but let’s face it! The end result probably wouldn’t be as good, nor as reliable, nor as
durable, as a Professionally made ‘proper’ tent.
Q: If it’s not as good as a ‘proper’ tent, what CAN I use a Tarp-shelter for?
A: Depending on the particular design and the specific situation it will be used in, the ‘DIY’ Tarp-shelter
can provide privacy (beach, bush, etc), shade from the sun, and shelter from the wind, rain, and even
cold. Ask yourself what you really want the Tarp-shelter for. Is it a hands-on project meant to build selfconfidence? A cheap playroom for children in the back yard? A sleepover project for a Youth Group? A
lightweight shelter to take when Hiking? An emergency backup to the tent you take when Camping?
Q: Emergency backup? How do these Tarp-shelters handle rain and high winds?
A: That depends on various things. Remember, storms wreck houses, so don’t expect fabric and rope to
do any better. If in doubt, only use in fair weather.
 Base Design - some are inherently more weather worthy than others are.
 Set-up - is the Tarp-shelter facing the wind in the right way?
 Ropes - are the ropes taut?
 Stakes - is it securely staked down? Extra stakes may be needed!
 Wind - How strong is the wind? Is it blowing the rain ‘sideways’?
 Seepage - will rain seep down the ropes and seams into the Tarp-shelter?
 Condensation - will condensation on the walls pool inside the Tarp-shelter?
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 Rising Damp - is the ground under the Tarp-shelter wet or humid?
 Run-off Water - will water pool in or around the Tarp-shelter?
 Fabric - how ‘waterproof’ is the tarp material itself?
Q: Can I cook inside a Tarp-shelter?
A: Uh-oh, that’s definitely ~NOT~ Recommended! Especially ~NOT~ with any of the ‘synthetic’ and thus
Highly Flammable tent and tarp fabrics! While some of these do claim to be ‘fire retardant’, it’s ~NOT~ a
claim I’d risk my life on! And before you ask, the advice AGAINST cooking inside a Tarp-shelter extends to
all other forms of combustion, such as candles and fuel lamps, mosquito coils and incense, and even to
cigarettes! All of these things burn a combustible fuel, and all are sources of potential fires!
Q: Well, can I cook near a Tarp-shelter, have a fire near one, or use any of those ‘other forms of
combustion’ mentioned above near a Tarp-shelter?
A: Ah, well… It depends on the stove/fire, and whether or not radiant heat, embers, sparks, or other hot
materials can affect the Tarp-shelter! Even if the source of heat doesn’t actually touch the tarp fabric, it
may still transfer enough heat through the air (radiant heat), to ‘melt’ or ignite the tarp!
Q: I see… Where can I get the basics to make my own Tarp-shelter?
A: Most hardware stores and larger supermarkets, or any good camping store.
Q: There’s a bewildering variety of gear available. What should I get?
A: First off, make paper models of the designs. When you have the basic concept down pat, go and buy
the CHEAPEST plain tarp you can! Don’t worry, it’ll last long enough to learn with! And when you ‘wear it
out’, you’ll have a good excuse to go buy a better one (as well as a good idea of what you need for the
particular design/s you want to use ;). Recycle the ‘worn out’ tarp into patches, ‘grommet insertion’ test
facility, ‘Rambo Raincoat’, groundsheet, etc. ~HOWEVER~, if you include a tarp in your camping gear, buy
a decent quality one, one that won’t ‘break’ and cause problems when you’re out in the bush.
Q: How do I transfer these Folding Patterns onto a real tarp?
A: Most of the patterns use ‘natural’ crease lines, the ones created when folding a tarp in half, thirds, etc.
To make a ‘pattern’, use a pen to make ‘alignment marks’ for easier reference. If necessary, use a tape
measure and protractor (device for measuring angles), and a straight-edged board as a ruler.
Q: What if I need to put extra grommets in the tarp to take ropes, etc?
A: You can adjust most of the Folding Plans to use existing grommets. Hardware and Camping stores will
have grommet kits, but ask if they have ‘Tarp-Clips’. Tarp-Clips go by a variety of names, but they are
reusable, and can go anywhere on a tarp without making holes! Larger Tarp-clips are stronger, as they
‘grip’ more of the tarp fabric than smaller clips. You might even be able to hang the tarp over poles and
ropes, and secure it where you can.
Q: How do I get my Tarp-shelter to have ‘geometrically’ straight sides, etc?
A: The Tarp-shelter doesn’t NEED to look ‘geometrical’ to work, but it will work better if the walls are taut
and straight, rather than limp and saggy. Just as a ‘ridgepole’ in an A-Frame tent keeps the roofline
straight and improves the stability of the structure, so too, can a framework of poles or taut ropes
(internal or external) improve a Tarp-shelter’s stability. Extra ground stakes will help, as will a ‘daisychained’ rope.
Q: What’s this about a ‘daisy-chained’ rope?
A: Tarps have a rope running under the edge of the hem, this rope reinforces the tarp, and helps spread
the load over more of the tarp fabric. A ‘daisy-chained’ rope is a way of providing similar reinforcement.
One way weaves a rope in and out of all of the grommet holes. Another way only pushes a loop of thin
rope through each grommet hole and ties it off, with the rest of the rope on the other side of the tarp to
the loops. In both cases, the rope itself can become the main supporting structure, with the rope/loops
becoming lash points, and the tarp hanging/draped from the taut rope like a curtain.
Q: Okay, you’ve sold me on the idea, but is there anything else I should know?
A: Funny you should say that… You can estimate the size of a Tarp-shelter that will result from a specific
design, given a tarp of a particular size. For that you’ll need pen, paper, a calculator with SQUARE ROOT
and SINE function keys, and Appendix #1 – Basic Trigonometry… Then there’s the Miscellaneous stuff…
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Miscellaneous Stuff
Copyright Notes – ~ALL~ illustrations in this document were ‘drawn’ by the Author using a variety of
computer graphic programs (including MetaCreations Painter 3D, Microsoft Paint, and Microsoft Photo
Editor).
As far as the Author of this document is aware, the Intellectual information behind the tarp folding
patterns themselves are in the Public Domain, and have been since the days of the Early Colonial Settlers
and Pioneers. As far as the Author of this document is concerned, his OWN illustrations may be used and
copied FREE OF CHARGE for Non-Commercial purposes. Non-Commercial includes use by Non-Profit
Groups, Educational Institutions, Youth Groups, Campers, etc.
Sources of information regarding the patterns include the websites, ‘Tarp Tents’
http://www.hufsoft.com/bsa51/page2.html, ‘Tent Making Made Easy By H.J. Holden’
http://home.earthlink.net/~lil_bear/tent.htm, and ‘Buckskin BSA (Boy Scouts of America)’
http://www.buckskin.org/Site_Map.htm. As well as the book ‘Camping in the Old Style’ by David Wescott,
ISBN 0-87905-956-7, published by ‘Gibbs Smith’ in Salt Lake City, Utah, USA. These sources refer to
books published in the early 1900’s, and state that some designs are ‘Traditional’.
Please Note - Drawings in this document are ~NOT~ ‘exact scale’! They are only ~GUIDES~ to what the
Folding Patterns and finished Tarp-shelters look like! In most of these designs, floor width and headroom
are adjustable at the expense of each other - just change the wall angles, and the others will follow.
All Folding Plans have the four corners named A, B, C, and D. The naming of all other points is Clockwise
from point A at the Top-Left corner of the diagram, ending with any ‘internal’ points. Some designs have
notes on sizes for the finished Tarp-shelter – these are mathematical estimates, created as a mental
exercise in Trigonometry. Check for accuracy before use!
NOTE - ~NONE~ of these Tarp-shelters are ‘insect proof’, and few have any sort of groundsheet (sod
cloth). You can add Groundsheets if you wish, and mosquito nets can be hung from the VSS, or attached
with tarp clips, Velcro, etc.
VSS (Vertical Support Systems)
Top - basic line strung between two fixed objects.
Usually either from ground to a tree, or between two
trees.
Second Top - single overhead hanging support. Usually
from an overhanging tree branch, or from a rope line.
Bottom Left - two poles lashed together to make a
‘Shears’ frame. A rope is slung between the upper
angle. Useful for areas without trees.
Bottom Right - traditional tent pole, guy line and
ground stake.
The 3-poled Tripod and 4-poled Pyramid frames, offer a
skeleton you can drape a tarp over, or an external
frame to support an overhead style VSS.
- Windward, direction wind blows FROM, side facing INTO wind, side wind hits.
- Lee, direction wind blows TO, side facing AWAY from wind, sheltered side.
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- Ridgeline, top of a roof, usually at the junction of two sloping sides.
- Ridgepole, pole used to reinforce the ridgeline of a tent or fly.
- Guy lines (Guy ropes), ropes used to secure a tent/fly or tent poles.
Tarps are usually either cotton canvas (with or without integrated synthetics reinforcing the weave or the
stitching), or a woven nylon fabric (as in tent fabric), or ‘poly’ tarps. The type of fabric used will affect the
appearance of the Tarp-shelter. The woven fabrics have more flex, and result in shelters with curving
walls and rounded angles when the fabric is under tension. Poly tarps have less flex, due to their
construction.
Poly tarps are made of Polyethylene, and are usually blue, green, or silver. They have sewn or heat-sealed
seams, a rope sewn into the hem, grommets every 3 feet or so, and reinforced corners with grommets.
Standard lightweight poly tarps are 1000 denier material in a 10 x 10 mesh, with 0.04 mm lamination on
each side. Heavy-duty tarps have a tighter 14 x 14 mesh, and thicker laminate.
The given ‘size’ of a Tarp, is often the size of the fabric blank before hemming. This means that the final
product may vary by a few inches from the stated size.
A commonly available size for a ‘square’ tarp is 12’ x 12’, and common sizes for tarps with 1:2 side ratios
are 8’ x 16’ and 12’ x 24’. The information in the tarp size and pricing tables below is out of date, and is
only a guide.
LIGHT WEIGHT – generic blue
HEAVY DUTY - 'Green'
5' x 7' (210 cm x 150 cm) £6
------------------------------
6' x 8' (240 cm x 180 cm) £7
6’ x 8' (210 cm x 150 cm) $11
8' x 10' (300 cm x 240 cm) £11
8’ x 10' (210 cm x 150 cm) $17
8' x 16' (240 cm x 480 cm) £21
------------------------------
9' x 20' (270 cm x 600 cm) £26
------------------------------
10' x 12' (300 cm x 360 cm) £17
10’ x 12' (210 cm x 150 cm) $26
12' x 12' (360 cm x 360 cm) £21
12’ x 12' (210 cm x 150 cm) $31
12' x 14' (360 cm x 420 cm) $24
12’ x 14' (210 cm x 150 cm) $36
12' x 16' (360 cm x 480 cm) $28
12’ x 16' (210 cm x 150 cm) $41
12' x 18' (360 cm x 540 cm) $31
12’ x 18' (210 cm x 150 cm) $46
12' x 20' (360 cm x 600 cm) $35
12’ x 20' (210 cm x 150 cm) $51
12' x 24' (360 cm x 720 cm) $41
12’ x 24' (210 cm x 150 cm) $62
15' x 15' (450 cm x 450 cm) $33
15’ x 15' (210 cm x 150 cm) $49
15' x 30' (450 cm x 900 cm) $64
15’ x 30' (210 cm x 150 cm) $97
16' x 20' (480 cm x 600 cm) $50
16’ x 20' (210 cm x 150 cm) $69
18' x 24' (540 cm x 720 cm) $64
18’ x 24' (210 cm x 150 cm) $93
24' x 30' (720 cm x 900 cm) $109
24’ x 30' (210 cm x 150 cm) $155
30' x 30' (900 cm x 900 cm) $129
30’ x 30' (210 cm x 150 cm) $183
30' x 36' (900 cm x 1080 cm) $148 30’ x 36' (210 cm x 150 cm) $222
Throughout this document, the base tarp sizes referred to in diagrams will be either 10’ x 10’ SQUARE, or
10’ x 20’ RECTANGULAR. This means that sizes given for a finished Tarp-shelter are easily converted for
different sized tarps. Examples - Results for a 12’ x 12’ tarp are 120% of those for a 10’ x 10’ tarp.
Results for an 8’ x 8’ tarp are 80% of those for a 10’ x 10’ tarp.
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When
converting
between
Imperial
and
Metric,
1
metre
(m)
=
(approximately)
1.094
yards
=
3
feet,
12 inches (12") = 1 foot (1’) = 30.48 centimetres (cm) = 0.3048 metres (m)
1’ = 0.3048m
6’ = 1.8288m
11’ = 3.3528m
16’ = 4.8768m
2’ = 0.6096m
7’ = 2.1336m
12’ = 3.6576m
17’ = 5.1816m
3’ = 0.9144m
8’ = 2.4384m
13’ = 3.9624m
18’ = 5.4864m
4’ = 1.2192m
9’ = 2.7432m
14’ = 4.2672m
19’ = 5.7912m
5’ = 1.524m
10’ = 3.048m
15’ = 4.572m
20’ = 6.096m
use
3
these
and
3/8
rates:
inches.
If
you’ve
laboured
through
all
of
that,
the
actual
plans
start
here...
Have Fun, but remember to play it safe and wear eye protection if using tent poles with spikes on the end!
Generic Square Tarp.
Template for designs using Square Tarps (10’
x 10’). Crosshairs show Midpoint, short lines
are Mid-sides.
1. Ground Sheet.
Lay tarp on ground and secure 4 corners for
easy to clean living surface.
2. Lean-To.
Secure 2 corners of one side to ground on
Windward side. Support 2 corners of opposite
side in air on Lee side.
3. Fly Sheet.
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Support 4 corners in air to make a weather
shed.
4. Mushroom.
Support centre point in air. Use pole with
rounded object on tip to avoid damage to
tarp.
Secure corners A, B, C, and D to ground with
rope.
No Folding is necessary.
NOTE - If using the Mushroom model, the rooflines from
the centre pole to the tarp corners will vary in curvature
depending on whether or not the tarp is a ‘plastic’ polytarp, or is a ‘fabric’ rip-stop nylon fly. If well-defined ridges
are needed, use either ridgepoles, or taut ropes.
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Generic Tub Floor.
Turn a groundsheet into a Tub Floor, by
folding the corners in a certain way.
The reinforced grommets in the corners will
interfere with the folding plan, but there
should be enough flex in the tarp to make the
folds ‘near enough’.
About 6 inches (15 cm) in from all 4 sides of
the tarp, make a crease line. This will become
the line at which the groundsheet ceases to
be the ‘floor’, and becomes the ‘wall’ of the
tub floor.
In the 4 corners of the tarp, the crease lines
will overlap, making corner squares.
Make diagonal folds in the corner squares,
with the fold line coming in from the
outermost corner.
Fold up the ‘walls’ of the Tub floor. The
diagonal creases in the corner squares will
allow spare material to fold ‘bellows’ style,
into flaps that can point inside or outside of
the walls of the Tub floor.
Secure folded material to one side of the Tub
floor ‘wall’. This will help to ‘square up’ wall
corners.
Note – Grommets will stop the fold being
perfect.
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This design helps keep things tidy and dry. Create a more
comfortable living space by attaching a Mosquito Net to the
edges of the Tub floor with clothes pegs.
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1. Doubled Wall Lean-To.
Fold in Half. Support mid-line fold EF in air.
Secure hanging corners to ground on
Windward side.
2. A-Frame Fly.
Support mid-line EF in air, low enough that
the 4 corners A, B, C, D lie loosely on the
ground.
Move an edge lying on the ground (AB or CD)
away from the mid-line EF, until the fabric is
taut, and the edge begins to lift from the
ground.
Secure spread edge to ground, and repeat
process in the opposite direction with other
trailing edge.
3. Wind Shed (Fold Over).
Secure an edge (AB or CD) to ground on
Windward side. Support mid-line FE and
remaining corners in air on Lee side.
4. Envelope (Fold Under).
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Fold shown at Half-way mark. In most Real Life
cases, the fold line will depend on the amount of
ground cover required…
4. Envelope (Fold Under) Continued…
Secure lower half to ground, with fold on Windward side.
Support free corners in air, on Lee side.
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1. Body Bag (Tube Fly).
10’ x 10’ Tarp creates a Body Bag with 60°
walls, 2.886 high, with floor space of 10 x
3.333.
Fold tarp into Thirds. Secure 4 corners of one
end-third to ground, with unfolded edge on
Lee side.
To keep the ground fold on the Windward
edge straight, reinforce with a taut rope
running along the fold inside the tent.
Turn middle section into sloping wall by
supporting the fold line between it and last
end-third section in air over the ground.
Secure free ends of last end-third section to
ground on Lee side.
2. C-Fly (Wind Shed).
Pitch as Body
Bag above, but support free ends of last endthird section in air on Lee side as an awning.
A downward angle aids weather control.
3. Square Arch.
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Folding in Thirds – measure or ‘estimate’ fold marks
by folding tarp so the ends overlap, then adjust the
amount of ‘over fold’ until there is no spare material
left that isn’t overlapped.
3. Square Arch (Continued).
Support points E, F, G, and H in air, secure corners to
ground. Greater headroom, straighter walls, but angle
slope of roof, or else rain and debris will collect.
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Quartered Fly.
A Fancier version of the fly, more suitable to
use as a garden marquee for a party.
Support Midpoints of E, F, G, and H in the air.
Use ridgepoles or taut ropes to reinforce the
roof, and get straight ridgelines.
Run ropes from corners A, B, C, D and secure
to ground.
The angled slope from the tarp’s midpoint to
the four corners, will shed rain like a fourcornered ‘gutter’. The use of ropes to tauten
the sloping walls will help direct water runoff.
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Fold in half, then fold in half again crossways to the
original fold.
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1. Adirondack Wind Shed.
10’ x 10’ Tarp creates an Adirondack with 45°
walls, 5 high, with floor space of 5 x 7.071.
Rotate plan until diamond EFGH looks like a
Square in the larger diamond of ABCD.
Face point of bottom triangle AWAY from the
wind, and secure the 3 corners of the bottom
triangle to ground.
Fold the rest of the tarp over the triangular
groundsheet, AWAY from the wind. This turns
Square EFGH into a main wall on the
Windward side.
Support fold-line making the base of Top
Corner Triangle in air on Lee side. Support
point of Top corner triangle in air on Lee side,
or fold down for a partial wall.
Fold Left and Right side triangular corners
inwards until points touch ground, then
secure as partial walls.
2. Rain Catcher.
Support points E, F, G, and H in the air.
Run ropes from corners, A, B, C, D and
secure to ground.
3. Walled Mushroom.
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Fold points are the half way marks on each side of
the Square Tarp.
3. Walled Mushroom.
With a centre pole to support the midpoint of the roof
support, the Rain catcher becomes a semi-walled
Mushroom fly. The amount of headroom gained isn’t much,
but it can help.
1. Shade Sail.
Open and airy, and like the name implies,
little more than a Shade Sail.
Support ends of diagonal fold line AC in air.
Secure other corners to the ground, on
Windward and Lee sides.
2. Diamond Fly.
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Better stability in windy conditions, IF set-up
properly and staked out securely.
Secure a corner containing the diagonal fold
line AC to ground on Windward side.
Support other end of diagonal fold line AC in
air on Lee side.
Spread corners B and D out until taut, then
secure them to ground.
3. Tortilla.
Fold Over Wind Shed.
Orient so diagonal fold line AC is on Windward
side.
Secure three corners of lower triangle to
ground. Reinforce fold line with a taut rope
running along the fold inside the tent.
Support free corner in air on Lee side.
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Fold in half diagonally.
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Canvas Gunyah.
A more stable version of the Shade Sail.
10’ x 10’ Tarp gives a Canvas Gunyah with
60° walls, 4.082 high, with floor space that
expands from 4.714 x 4.714 in the centre, to
more beneath the 14.142 awnings (4.714 x
9.428 overall).
Fold in Half diagonally. Fold each diagonal
Half again into thirds.
Small corners are the last third on either halfside. They become partial groundsheets.
Lay on ground and bring tips of groundsheet
corners together. This orientates stake points.
Secure groundsheet triangles to ground.
Support ends of diagonal mid-line AC in air.
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Fold in Half diagonally, then fold each diagonal Half
in Thirds. Small corners are the last third on either
half-side.
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1. Bivvy Bag (Cornet).
*Best* stability in windy conditions, IF set-up
properly and staked out securely. ‘Awning’ on
Lee end helps with weather control, although
rain may trickle down rope.
Fold in half diagonally, then swing free
corners B and D inwards in a circular arc until
they touch the Mid-line fold AC in the ‘folded
fan’ pattern shown here.
Use rope to support full length of mid-line fold
AC (rope ridgepole).
Secure ‘Multi-Fold’ corner A to ground, on
Windward side.
Support corner with free end of diagonal midline AC in air on Lee side (tie to tree, etc).
Fold triangles ABE and ADF under at fold-lines
AF and AE to make double groundsheets.
Secure groundsheets to ground, reinforcing
fold lines with taut ropes.
2. Bivvy Bag (Hunchback).
Use an internal pole to support tarp some
distance back along Mid-line AC from point C.
This can create a downward sloping awning
that helps with weather control.
3. Half Cone.
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Fold in half diagonally, then swing free corners B and
D inwards in a circular arc until they touch the Midline fold AC in the ‘folded fan’ pattern shown here.
3. Half Cone (continued).
Pitch midline AC along supporting rope. Secure corners B
and D to ground. Stretch out points E and F, and secure to
ground with ropes.
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Forrester.
Good stability in windy conditions, IF set-up
properly and staked out securely. ‘Doorway’
on Lee end helps with weather control.
NOTE – Width of shelter depends on wall
angles, the amount of headroom, where
‘Cross-Folds’ point G is, and on how the
doorway is constructed.
NOTE - Use of a taut rope to act as a
ridgepole is recommended. Run rope from
ground point A, UNDER the tarp fabric,
through top of doorway frame, and on to final
VSS anchor.
Fold tarp in half diagonally, use length of side
AB or AD to find the ‘Cross-Folds’ point G on
the diagonal Mid-line AC.
Secure corner A of diagonal mid-line fold AC
to ground on Windward side. Use a rope to
support full length of mid-line fold AC (rope
ridgepole).
Support ‘Cross-Folds’ point G in air on Lee
side.
Spread triangles ABG and ADG to create
walls. When taut, secure B and D to ground.
Fold CEG and CFG underneath BEG and DFG
to create partial walls from BEG and DFG that
frame a low doorway.
When satisfied with doorway, secure folded
cloth with Tarp Clips, lashings, pegs, etc.
Top of doorway where E meets F may be
pulled forward to make a better awning.
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Fold tarp in half diagonally, use length of side AB or
AD to find the ‘Cross-Folds’ point G on the diagonal
Mid-line AC.
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End.
This is half of the Miner’s Tent, adapted to
make an end with doors for an A-frame fly.
‘Multi Fold’ corner C will be the top/peak. The
large middle triangle CEF will be an end wall,
while the two smaller long sided triangles BCE
and CDF will be door flaps. Triangle AEF will
become a partial groundsheet.
Support Multi Fold corner C in air, from same
support as the A-Frame fly mid-line.
Match the free edges of the door flaps with
ends of an A-Frame fly, and secure to ground.
Stretch out and secure the rest of the door
flaps.
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Fold Angles are 45° and 22.5° around point C, and
67.5° for bases of main wall and doors.
From a 10’ x 10’ Tarp, the main wall has a base of 8.2842
units, sides of 10.8239. Doors have a base of 4.1421,
vertical door sides are 10, and sloping corner sides are
10.8239.
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Generic Rectangular Tarp (sides in 1:2
ratio).
Midpoint of tarp shown by crosshairs, midsides shown by a short line.
1. Ground Sheet.
Lay tarp on ground and secure 4 corners for
easy to clean living surface.
2. Lean-To.
Secure 2 corners of one side to ground on
Windward side. Support 2 corners of opposite
side in air on Lee side.
3. Fly Sheet.
Support 4 corners in air to make a weather
shield.
4. Mushroom.
No Folding is necessary.
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Support centre point in air. Use pole with
round object on tip to avoid damage to tarp.
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NOTE - If using the Mushroom model, the rooflines from Secure corners A, B, C, and D to ground.
the centre pole to the tarp corners will vary in curvature
depending on whether or not the tarp is a ‘plastic’ polytarp, or is a ‘fabric’ rip-stop nylon fly. If well-defined ridges
are needed, use either ridgepoles, or taut ropes.
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1. Doubled Wall Lean-To.
Fold in half. Support mid-line fold EF in air.
Secure hanging corners to ground on
Windward side.
2. A-Frame Fly.
Support mid-line EF in air, low enough that
the 4 corners A, B, C, D lie loosely on the
ground.
Move an edge lying on the ground (AB or CD)
away from the mid-line EF, until the fabric is
taut, and the edge begins to lift from the
ground.
Secure spread edge to ground, and repeat
process in the opposite direction with other
trailing edge.
3. Wind Shed (Fold Over).
Secure an edge (AB or CD) to ground on
Windward side. Support mid-line FE and
remaining corners in air on Lee side.
4. Envelope (Fold Under).
Fold shown at Half-way mark. In most Real Life
cases, the fold line will depend on the amount of
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ground cover required…
4. Envelope (Fold Under) Continued…
Secure lower half to ground, with fold on Windward side.
Support free corners in air, on Lee side.
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1. Tube Fly.
10’ x 20’ Tarp creates a Tube Fly with 60°
walls, 5.773 high, with floor space of 10 x
6.666 (walls and floor are 6.666).
Fold tarp into thirds. Secure 4 corners of one
end-third to ground, with unfolded edge on
Lee side.
To keep the ground fold on the Windward
edge straight, reinforce with a taut rope
running along the fold inside the tent.
Turn middle section into sloping wall by
supporting the fold line between it and last
end-third section in air over the ground.
Secure free ends of last end-third section to
ground on Lee side.
2. C-Fly (Wind Shed).
Pitch as Body
Bag above, but support free ends of last endthird section in air on Lee side as an awning.
Angle down for better weather control.
3. Square Arch.
Folding in Thirds – measure or ‘estimate’ fold marks
by folding tarp so the ends overlap, then adjust the
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amount of ‘over fold’ until there is no spare material
left that isn’t overlapped.
3. Square Arch (Continued).
Support points E, F, G, and H in the air, secure corners to
ground. Greater headroom, straighter walls, but ‘angle’ the
slope of roof or rain and debris will collect.
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1. Tube Fly (with doubled groundsheet)
Fold tarp into Quarters. Secure 4 corners of
one end-Quarter to ground, unfolded edge on
Lee side.
To keep the ground fold on the Windward
edge straight, reinforce with a taut rope
running along the fold inside the tent.
Turn two middle sections into sloping wall and
roof by supporting the fold line between them
in the air, and also supporting the fold line
between the ‘roof’ segment and the last
Quarter in the air.
Secure free ends of last end-quarter section
to ground on Lee side.
2. Square Arch (with groundsheet).
One Quarter fold becomes the groundsheet,
the next segment becomes a wall, the third
segment becomes a roof, and the last
segment is the last wall.
Angles on wall and roof can be varied, with a
sloping trapezoidal set-up being stronger and
more weather worthy than an elongated box.
3. Tube Arch.
Set up as per Tube Fly or Boxed Arch, but use
flexible dome tent rods to make semi-circles
out of tube ends.
Plan shown folds at quarter marks – adjust as
needed for desired result.
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1. Walled Fly.
Support ends of mid-line fold FI in air.
Run guy lines from points E, G, H, and J to
ground. This keeps the roof sections taut and
angled without the need for poles.
Use Tarp clips to create wall tension points
along fold lines EJ and FI. Run lines to
ground.
Secure corners A, B, C, and D to ground,
making vertical or sloping walls.
2. Tube Fly (with split groundsheet).
10’ x 20’ Tarp creates a Tube Fly with 60°
walls, 5.773 high, with floor space of 10 x
6.666 (walls and floor are 6.666)
Support ends of midline fold FI in air.
Secure four corners of A, B, C, D to ground
directly beneath midline fold.
Stretch loose folds of tarp out along ground
until walls FGHI and EFIJ are taut.
Secure E, G, H, J (edges of groundsheet and
corners of walls) to ground.
3. Tube Arch.
Set up as per Tube Fly, but use flexible dome
tent rods to make semi-circles out of tube
ends.
Fold in Half, then fold each Half into Thirds. Small
rectangles are the end-third of each Half. The size of
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35
the end walls can vary as required.
Bakers (Wind Shed).
Secure edge GH of main rectangular wall
EFGH to the ground, on Windward side.
Square up floor plan by securing the stake
points of the partial groundsheet triangles
ABH and CDG. This helps locate stake points
of side walls BEH and CFG.
Stake out other base points B, C of side walls.
Support Top edge EF in air on Lee side.
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Pattern shown, folds at end quarter-lines, then
diagonally divides the end quarters.
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Holden (also called a Rectangular Tent).
NOTE – Width of shelter depends on wall
angles and amount of headroom. These are
adjustable.
Support Multi-Fold point E in air. Adjust
headroom to suit.
Spread corners A and D back from Multi-Fold
point E to make rear wall of triangle ADE.
Secure A and D to ground on Windward side.
Spread corners B and C on Lee side until side
walls ABE and CDE are taut.
Secure B and C to ground.
Diagonal folds go from midpoint of a long side, to the
corners of the opposite long side.
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1. Floating Pyramid.
This design ‘floats’ a pyramid shaped fly in
the air, with enough ground clearance to let
the breeze through underneath.
Support Multi-Fold point E in air.
Corners A, D with diagonal fold-lines, and one
end F of the mid-line EF are pulled into 3
corners of a pyramid.
Secure diagonal fold line corners A and D
directly to ground. Use a rope to secure point
F to the ground, and keep fold line EF taut.
Remaining corners of B and C come together
to complete the pyramid, or stay open as a
doorway.
2. Cornered Stall.
Something suitable for a sheltered position,
like in a flea market where a square footprint
and vertical walls are needed.
Support Multi-Fold point E in air.
Corners A, D with diagonal fold-lines, and one
end F of the mid-line EF are pulled into 3
corners of a pyramid.
Fold in half short ways (parallel to the short edge),
then fold each half diagonally in half.
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2. Cornered Stall (continued).
Secure diagonal fold line corners A and D, and point F
directly to ground in three points of a square. This will put
point F directly beneath Multi-fold point E
Remaining corners of B and C come together to complete
an awning for a pyramid lying on its side. They need
support for best effect.
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1. Open Pyramid.
Floor space depends on size of the gap
between left and right walls. These are
adjustable.
Secure base points F, G of middle triangle
EFG to ground.
Square up floor plan by using fold lines of BG
and CF to show where stakes go on ground.
Stake base points B, C of side walls to
ground.
Fold corner triangles of ABG and CDF
underneath as partial groundsheets.
Support Multi-Fold point E in the air to tauten
walls.
2.
Closed
Tetrahedra
(with
full
groundsheet).
Make a closed tent with full groundsheet. This
pattern on a 10’ x 20’ tarp creates Isosceles
triangles. Equilateral triangles come from
using a 8.66 x 20 tarp, or just redrawing the
design on a tarp so that the ‘excess’ goes on
the ‘back walls’ and doors/main groundsheet
for use as lashing and mud-guards.
Using the large middle triangle EFG as a
ground sheet, the two side triangles BEG and
CEF fold up to become walls that meet at BE
and CE.
All fold points are from the end, quarter, or half way
marks of the long sides.
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2. Closed Tetrahedra (continued).
The half triangles ABG and CDF become fully functional
door flaps.
Support points B and C in the air.
The ‘back walls’ will need extra lashings to close the gap
between their edges up and make the tent ‘secure’.
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42
Miner’s Tent (also called Pyramid Tent,
Square Tent, Range Tent, etc – has
partial groundsheet).
Make a closed tent with real doors, and a
partial groundsheet. Width of tent depends on
tarp sides being exactly 1:2.
A 10’ x 20’ Tarp creates a Miner’s Tent 9.10
high, with floor space of 8.28 x 8.28.
Secure base points H and I of middle triangle
FHI to ground.
Square up floor plan by securing the stake
points of the partial groundsheet triangles AEI
and DGH. This helps locate stake points of
other walls.
Stake out other base points of main walls.
Support Multi-Fold point F in the air.
Secure door flaps to ground, and to each
other.
Tarp
Tarp
Tent
TentC
Short
Long
High
Floor
06
12
5.46
4.96
07
14
6.37
5.79
08
16
7.28
6.62
09
18
8.19
7.45
10
20
9.10
8.28
NOTE – triangles AEI and DGH form a partial
groundsheet that covers half the floor space.
NOTE – Versions with ‘flatter fronts’ are
made by moving points E and G back towards
the edge AD, or to the midpoints of the short
sides.
Fold Angles are 45° and 22.5° around point F, and
67.5° for bases of main walls and doors.
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From a 10’ x 20’ Tarp, the main walls have a Base of
8.2842 units, sides of 10.8239. Doors have a base of
4.1421, vertical door sides are 10, and sloping corner sides
are 10.8239.
NOTE – In the olden days, internal 4-poled pyramid
frames (one in each corner) provided exceptional stability.
APPENDIX #1 - Basic Trigonometry
(don’t worry, it’s only the ONE page…)
Trigonometry is a branch of Mathematics dealing with Triangles. At the heart of Trigonometry, are angles.
We measure Angles in degrees (°). Each degree subdivides into 60 minutes (’) or 1/60 of a degree, and
each minute subdivides again into 60 seconds (") or 1/60 of a minute. To use the Degree mark (°) on
most computer keyboards, hold down the ‘Alt’ key and press 0176 on the numeric keypad (Alt + 0176).
A Right Angle is 90°, exactly. An Acute (sharp) Angle is between 0° and 90°. An Obtuse (blunt) Angle is
between 90° and 180°. A Reflex Angle is between 180° and 360°. There are 360° in a Circle.
The sum of the internal angles in a Triangle is always 180° (half that of a Circle). An Equilateral Triangle
has ALL sides equal in length, and ALL angles equal to 60°. An Isosceles Triangle has TWO sides equal in
length, with TWO angles equal to each other (whatever they may be). A Scalene Triangle has NO sides or
angles equal to any other.
A Right-Angled Triangle, is a triangle that has a Right-Angle (90°) as one of its internal angles. The
Hypotenuse is a special name for the side opposite the Right Angle (an ‘opposite’ side does NOT touch the
angle in question).
The Hypotenuse Square Rule. The length of the Hypotenuse when multiplied by itself (squared), equals
the sum of the individually squared measurements of the other two sides of the triangle.
H^2 = A^2 + B^2
Examples
A Right-Angled Triangle has angles of 45°, 45°, and 90°, and sides in the ratio of 1:1:H=(Square root of
2).
A Right Angled Triangle with angles of 30°, 60° and 90°, has sides in the ratio of 1:(Square Root of
3):H=2
SqRoot 1 = 1
SqRoot 11 = 3.31662479
SqRoot 21 = 4.582575695
SqRoot 2 = 1.414243562
SqRoot 12 = 3.464101615
SqRoot 22 = 4.69041576
SqRoot 3 = 1.732050808
SqRoot 13 = 3.605551275
SqRoot 23 = 4.795831523
SqRoot 4 = 2
SqRoot 14 = 3.741657387
SqRoot 24 = 4.898979486
SqRoot 5 = 2.236067978
SqRoot 15 = 3.872983346
SqRoot 25 = 5
SqRoot 6 = 2.449489743
SqRoot 16 = 4
SqRoot 26 = 5.099019514
SqRoot 7 = 2.645751311
SqRoot 17 = 4.123105626
SqRoot 27 = 5.196152423
SqRoot 8 = 2.828427125
SqRoot 18 = 4.242640687
SqRoot 28 = 5.291502622
SqRoot 9 = 3
SqRoot 19 = 4.358898944
SqRoot 29 = 5.385164807
SqRoot 10 = 3.16227766
SqRoot 20 = 4.472135955
SqRoot 30 = 5.477225575
The
SINE
Rule.
In a triangle where a, b, c are the names of the sides of the triangle, and A, B, C are the angles opposite
the relevant side (an ‘opposite’ side does NOT touch the angle in question)… The result of dividing the
length of any side by the sine of the angle opposite it, is equal to the result of dividing any other side by
the relevant angle.
(a/SINE A) = (b/SINE B) = (c/SINE C)
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SINE 7.5°= 0.130526192
SINE 45.0°= 0.707106781
SINE 15.0°= 0.258819045
SINE 60.0°= 0.866025404
SINE 22.5°= 0.382683432
SINE 67.5°= 0.923879533
SINE 30.0°= 0.5
SINE 90.0°= 1
Example
With the sun directly overhead, a tent wall with a 45° slope will cast a shadow that stretches as
the base of the wall, as the wall is high. That is, 1 shadow length unit per wall height unit. At
same tent wall gives 1.73205 shadow length units per wall height unit (or 1 shadow unit per
height units). At 60°, the tent wall gives 0.57735 shadow units per height unit (or 1 shadow
1.73205 height units
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far from
30°, the
0.57735
unit per