CFDA/Lexus Eco Fashion Challenge
Eco Fashion Definitions
June 2012
Organic, Sustainable Sourcing
Organic, sustainably-farmed materials such as cotton and wool are grown with no
pesticides, chemicals or artificial fertilizers. Non-organic cotton is particularly high in
pesticide use and should be avoided. Take into consideration the carbon footprint* of
growing, harvesting and shipping fabric/materials. Non-toxic dyes should be used in
fabrics and leather. Designers can make use of eco materials resource sites, such as
Earth Pledge’s Future Fashion eco textile library at www.earthpledge.org/ff/futurefashiontextile-library or the Sustainable Style Foundation Sourcebook at
www.sustainablestyle.org/ssf-sourcebook/.
Inherently Eco Materials
Other than being organic or sustainably farmed, there are crops that have inherent eco
qualities: fast-growing, lower carbon footprint, do not exhaust agricultural land, require
less pesticide and water. These types of materials include abaca, bamboo, corn-based
polymer, hemp, sasawashi, tencel and sea cell.
Accessories and jewelry can be crafted from eco materials as well. Examples: bamboo
used for buttons or gems and gold that have been mined in an environmentally
responsible way. Materials that substitute for endangered species, such as fossilized
mammoth ivory, or bakelite in lieu of coral, are also considered eco, as are re-used
metals and precious stones.
Manufacturing Process
Eco manufacturing has a reduced carbon footprint and avoids use of toxic dyes or
finishes (non-toxic natural vegetable dyes can be used). Excess materials and fabric
should be biodegradable, recycled/reused, or even used for animal feed. Some manmade
fibers are considered eco because of their manufacturing process. Examples:
lyocell and soybean protein fiber made by extracting oil from the soybean cake.
Recycling/Reuse
Recycling/Reuse avoids the water and energy consumption, and possible toxic output,
of new fiber and fabric manufacture. Examples: recycled fabrics and yarns; recycled
elements (antique buttons and lace); vintage clothing repurposed in new designs.
Slow Design
Design obsolescence – the predominant design practice since the 1950s – is a policy of
deliberately designing a product with a limited life, so it will become useless after a
short period of time. The fashion cycle, which introduces new styles every season (e.g.
new heels every season), is a type of design obsolescence. This encourages annual
repeat consumption and teaches consumers to discard last season’s fashions in favor
of new styles.
Instead, we advocate Slow Design, an eco design concept that encourages reduced
consumption, reduced carbon footprint, locally sourced materials, traditional
craftsmanship, durability, quality and timeless heirloom design that can span
generations. Example: flexible fashions where a single piece can be worn in many ways.
Eco Business Practices
Designers can follow eco business practices such as staging fashion events in LEED
certified venues. LEED certification was developed by the U.S. Green Building Council
to provide a framework for implementing and measuring green building design. Another
option is pledging a percentage of profits to support eco fashion or other sustainability
causes, for instance through 1% For the Planet (www.onepercentfortheplanet.org), or
Carbonfund.org for carbon offsets.
Certification
Designers should include any eco certifications they have received, such as IFOAM, the
Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (www.ifoam.org), whose mission is to
support organic agriculture worldwide.
*Carbon footprint: the total amount of greenhouse gases released by the production,
use and disposal of an item.