ATHR 381
Class#3715
Fall 2010
T, Th 8:45-10:05
PAC 233
Tirza Fogle
Phone: 518 462 4531 Ext 214
Email: tirzachappell@gmail.com
Course Objective:
Students will gain an understanding of how costumes are constructed for Theatre.
Students will learn basic hand and machine sewing skills for constructing a complete costume.
Students will gain an understanding of basic pattern making skills.
Text and Supplies
REQUIRED:
Ingham, Rosemary and Liz Covey. The Costume Technician’s Handbook. Heinemann, Portsmouth, NH.
Supplies:
Sewing Box (not a Wal-Mart bag)
Fabric shears 7-8” blade
Seam ripper
2x18” c-thru gridded ruler
Pin cushion or magnet
Long Pins with Heads
Pkg. of hand sewing needles—sharps or assorted
Tracing wheel
Measuring Tape
**Additional supplies will be required for your projects including fabric and notions.
Attendance
Since this class comprises of both lectures and laboratory work it would be best to attend all classes. Due
to unavoidable circumstances you are allowed 2 unexcused absences beyond which 5 points will be
deducted from you grade for every absence.
Theatre Attendance
You are required to see a performance of the departmental productions:
Plays in Process
Friday & Saturday, October 8 & 9 at 8pm
Saturday and Sunday, October 9 & 10 at 2pm
Friday & Saturday, March 11 & 12 at 8pm
Saturday & Sunday, March 12 & 13 at 2pm
STUDIO THEATRE - $4
BioTech Performance Festival
Friday & Saturday, November 5 & 6 at 8pm
Sunday, November 7 at 2pm*
Thursday & Friday, November 11 & 12 at 8pm
Saturday, November 13 at 8pm
Thursday & Friday, November 18 & 19 at 8pm
Saturday, November 20 at 2pm
STUDIO THEATRE - $12 general public
$8 from Nov. 5-7 and $10 Nov. 11-20 for students, faculty-staff & seniors
Documented observations of design elements will gain you extra credit.
You are expected to practice appropriate audience etiquette.
Capital Repertory Theatre will be doing productions of 33 Variations, Catus Flower and A Christmas
Story this fall. Attending performances of these or putting in hours in the Capital Rep costume shop will
earn you extra credit.
Tardy Policy
I expect you to arrive to class on time. Since each class session is only 1 hour and 20 minutes when you
are late you waste everyone’s time in class. For every two times you are late it will be counted as an
absence. Absences accumulated as a result of tardiness will count 10 points of your grade.
Assignments
Hand and Machine Stitching Construction sample book
Each sample in the book must be mounted and labeled neatly. Even though you will have time in class,
you will need to work on them outside of class hours. Your samples will be graded on neatness and
accuracy. Each sample is worth 5 points to a total of 200 points.
Hand stitches: Running stitch, Back Stitch, Hem or Whip Stitch, Locked Hem Stitch, Cross Stitch, Slip
Stitch, Basting stitch, Swing Tack
Hardware: Hook and Eye, Hook and Bar, Snaps, Buttons (Decorative and Shank)
Machine Stitches (on sheer fabric): Straight and Zig Zag in various patterns
Seam types and Techniques (to be done in both sheer and opaque fabrics): Plain Seam, Plain Seam
Over locked: Open and Closed, French Seam, Lapped/Flat Felt Seam, Blind Hem, Buttonhole, Curved
Seam, Neckline Facing, Binding, Piping, Gathering(to a band), Easing (only on muslin), Plain Lapped
zipper(only on muslin)
Midterm exam
There will be a midterm exam on October 14th.The exam will test your ability to identify basic costume
shop instruments/parts, fabrics, vocabulary, and knowledge of working of the costume shop. The exam
will be of 100 points.
Body Block and Mockup
You will create a body block (sloper) based on your measurements or someone you want to fit. (This
person has to be available for fittings during class hours). A mannequin may be used. After creating the
body block it will then be cut out of muslin, stitched and fit. After fitting you will correct your paper
pattern. Your body block will be graded on the basis of accuracy, neatness and completion of all the steps
in the process. Your body block will be worth 100 points total
Design features based on block
Once blocks are corrected in class, we will use the block to convert to a certain style, a vest, a shirt or
something similar
OR
You will modify the block to add some design feature. Add a skirt, or sleeves or collar, some features
beyond the realm of the basic.
Then this will be made in muslin/ inexpensive fabric for a final fit.
OR
You will drape a simple garment on an available form in the shop.
This will be worth 50 points.
Accessory/Alteration
This project will involve working on an accessory to go with your design or an alteration you want to do
approved by me. Remember that it is worth 50 points so it has to be substantial. Examples of accessories
are fabric hats, bags, purses etc. You have to be able to develop a pattern or use a store bought one for this
project. Your ability to research and create will be taken into account.
Academic Dishonesty
Academic Dishonesty of any kind is not permissible. It will result in failure and possible
referral to the University Judicial System.
Disclosure
This class involves working on real bodies by another classmate or me. If this is not comfortable,
please let me know so I can arrange for another person.
Quizzes
There will be 5 quizzes with varying points possible (Check the course schedule for
dates). These quizzes may be written, a hands-on activity of a skill that should be mastered, or a
combination of both. Makeup quizzes will rarely be given and at my discretion. Expect any
makeup quiz given to be more difficult than the original quiz. Makeup quizzes may need to be
scheduled outside of class, again at my discretion and depending on the nature and length of the
quiz.
Grading
The grade you will receive at the end is a summation of points received on each project. It will
be on an A to E scale. Late work will receive a lower grade.
Total Points
Sample Book
Quizzes
Basic Block (corrected)
Mockup
Accessory/Alteration
Midterm
200
175
100
50
50
100
Total
675
Class rules
*You are expected to get your kit by the second week.
*Any additional material supplied by the shop should be put away at the end.
*Any demo samples should be put away so other students can refer to it.
*You have to make sure you have all your pieces before you start a project. The costume
shop cannot supply the same thing twice.
*No cell phones, Ipods, Laptops etc. are to be used during class. Please be mentally present
for the class as it is hands on.
Schedule
(Subject to change)
31-Aug
2-Sept
7-Sept
14 - Sept
16- Sept
21 – Sept
Introduction to the Course, Supplies, Shop Tour
Shop and Personnel—Chapter 1
Health and Safety in the Costume Shop—Chapter 2
Fabrics--Fibers—Chapter 3
Fabrics--Weaves, Knits, and Finishing
Commercial Patterns and Pattern Layout More than just Fashion Fabric—what
do I buy?
QUIZ 1 --Course to date—50 points
23 - Sept
Fabric Lay Out--Supplies Check for Bag Project
28 – Sept
Bag Project work session
30 - Sept
Bag Project work session
QUIZ 2 --Commercial patters—25 points
5 - Oct
Bag Project work session
7 - Oct
Bag Project work session
12 - Oct
Bag Project Due, Constructing a Costume pgs. Chapter 5 pp.164 - 172
14 - Oct
Midterm Exam – 100 points
Pattern Development Chapter 4
19 - Oct
Measurements Chapter 4
21 - Oct
Draft of Female Body Block pgs 106-114
Measurements Due Beginning of Class
26 - Oct
Finish Draft, Cut Muslin
28 - Oct
Stitch Mockup
2 - Nov
Fit Muslin
4 - Nov
Pattern Corrections
QUIZ 3—Pattern Development and Drafting—25 points
9 - Nov
Continue Pattern Corrections, Corrected Pattern Due at 9:15
11 - Nov
Begin Dart Manipulation with Half Scale Patterns, Chart Dart Locations, Slash
and Spread Technique
16 - Nov
Continue Dart Manipulation, Pivotal Transfer Technique
QUIZ 4—Dart Manipulation—25 points
18 - Nov
Dart Manipulation
QUIZ 5—Fabrics—50 points
23 - Nov
Begin Final Project
Supplies Check for final project
30 - Nov
Final Project Work Session
2 - Dec
Final Project Work Session
7- Dec
Final Project Work Session
Final Project Due at Final Exam time, class will meet to share projects and receive grades.
**I reserve the right to make changes to this syllabus as needed**