TITLE 2309.24 - RECREATION FACILITIES HANDBOOK
FSH 9/85 R-10 TRANS
CHAPTER 1000 - APPENDICES
Appendix
1 - Deadweight Anchors
2 - Drag Anchors
3 - Plate Anchors
4 - Pile Anchors
5 - Chain
6 - Rope
7 - Typical Deadweight Anchor
7A - Typical Rock Bolt Anchor
8 - Typical Wind and Water Drag Forces
9 - Holding Power of Anchors
9A - Drag Coefficients
10 - Preparation and Painting of Anchor Buoys
11 - Snowload Information (Reserved)
12 - Finishes and Preservatives (Reserved)
APPENDIX 1 - DEADWEIGHT ANCHORS
SEE PAPER COPY OF THE MASTER SET
FOR APPENDIX 1
APPENDIX 2 - DRAG ANCHORS
SEE PAPER COPY OF THE MASTER SET
FOR APPENDIX 2
APPENDIX 3 - PLATE ANCHORS
SEE PAPER COPY OF THE MASTER SET
FOR APPENDIX 3
APPENDIX 4 - PILE ANCHORS
SEE PAPER COPY OF THE MASTER SET
FOR APPENDIX 4
APPENDIX 5 - CHAIN
SEE PAPER COPY OF THE MASTER SET
FOR APPENDIX 5
APPENDIX 6 - ROPE
SEE PAPER COPY OF THE MASTER SET
FOR APPENDIX 6
APPENDIX 7 - TYPICAL DEADWEIGHT ANCHOR
SEE PAPER COPY OF THE MASTER SET
FOR APPENDIX 7
APPENDIX 7A - TYPICAL ROCK BOLT ANCHOR
SEE PAPER COPY OF THE MASTER SET
FOR APPENDIX 7A
APPENDIX 8 - TYPICAL WIND AND WATER DRAG FORCES
SEE PAPER COPY OF THE MASTER SET
FOR APPENDIX 8
APPENDIX 9 - HOLDING POWER OF ANCHORS
SEE PAPER COPY OF THE MASTER SET
FOR APPENDIX 9
APPENDIX 9A - DRAG COEFFICIENTS
SEE PAPER COPY OF THE MASTER SET
FOR APPENDIX 9A
APPENDIX 10 - PREPARATION AND PAINTING OF ANCHOR BUOYS
The following information is taken from the U.S. Coast Guard "Coatings and Color
Manual" (COMDTINST M103603), and Alaska State specifications for steel ship
hull maintenance. Equivalent GSA paint numbers can often be found for the
military paint numbers given in the USCG material. Only those items which
specifically refer to the Forest Service are mandatory. The rest of this material is
included for your information to encourage acceptable standards of maintenance.
FROM U.S. COAST GUARD MANUAL:
CHAPTER 4. PROTECTIVE COATINGS FOR AIDS TO NAVIGATION
A. STEEL BUOYS
1. General. The authorized coating system for steel buoys, except as noted in
para. 4.A.1.a. and 4.A.13, is presented in Table 4-1.
a. Large Navigational Buoys shall be coated in accordance with the
requirements of Chapter 2 of the Coast Guard Operations and Maintenance Manual
for the Large Navigational Buoy.
b. Other steel buoys should normally be scheduled for blast cleaning
and complete repainting every six years. This relatively long service life required of
the buoy coating system demands careful attention to the preparation of the buoy
surface and to the application of the paint films.
c. The marking of buoys depends upon their specific function. See
Chapter 3 of the Coast Guard Aids to Navigation Manual (COMDTINST M16500.3)
for a description of the various markings and guidance in their selection, inspection,
and maintenance.
d. Safety and health standards for abrasive blasting and paint
applications are contained in Chapter 1 of this manual and in COMDTINST 6260.7
(Series).
2. Removal of Fouling. Most of the loose fouling on the buoy body should be
removed by the buoy tender when the buoy is recovered. Heavy fouling should be
removed by scraping before abrasive blasting is started. If the fouling is light
and/or tightly adhering, it may be removed by blasting.
3. Component Removal and Masking. Before blasting is started, any part of
the buoy that could be damaged by or interfere with the blasting should be removed.
Vent valves should be removed and the vent lines plugged. The lantern and wiring,
bells, gongs, and whistles should be removed from buoys.
4. Oil and Grease Removal. Heavy accumulations of oil and grease must be
removed before any blasting since the oil or grease will interfere with proper surface
preparation. Solvents such as Mineral Spirits Paint Thinner, TT-T-291, applied by
brush, rag, or spray may be used. Clean, uncontaminated solvents should be used;
if the solvent is dirty, the result will be a spread of the oil or grease instead of
removal. Emulsifying Cleaning Compound, P-C-444, is also acceptable, although its
use must be followed by washing with hot water to remove all residues.
5. Abrasive Cleaning. Following the preliminary cleaning operations, the buoy
is ready for abrasive blasting to bare metal. Because paint life is dependent
primarily on surface preparation, this aspect of the overhaul program should be
thorough. All paint films will fail eventually, usually because of loss of adhesion or
disruption of the film by rusting of the steel, but good surface preparation can
postpone this.
a. Blasting Methods and Materials.
(1) The traditional blasting method is one using dry sand, shot, or
grit. It is difficult to prevent the formation of rust after wet blasting, even if a
corrosion inhibitor is used. If wet blasting is used, a corrosion inhibitor should be
added to the blasting slurry. After the surface is wet blasted clean, the surface
must be washed with water also containing an inhibitor. For the slurry, a suitable
inhibitor may be formulated from a 4-to-1 mixture of commercially-purchased
diammonium phosphate and sodium nitrite. Add 2 pounds of the mixture (4/5 quart
diammonium phosphate, 1/5 quart sodium nitrite) to 15 gallons of water and 300
pounds of sand. For the final wet blast wash, use 2 pounds of the mixture added to
40 gallons of water.
(2) It is important that the correct size grit, shot, or sand is used
because the size determines the surface roughness of the material to be painted. An
abrasive that is too fine may not remove all the foreign material from the surface,
and will give a relatively smooth surface which does not allow proper adhesion of
the coating system. For sandblasting, use sand or grit of a size no larger than that
passing through a 16-mesh screen (U.S. Sieve Series) or one grade smaller. The
largest commercial grade of grit permitted by this is SAE No. G-25. The largest
commercial grade of shot permitted is SAE No. S-330.
b. Surface Preparation Requirements. At the completion of all the
cleaning and blasting operations, the surface to be painted should have the
following appearance: free of rust and rust scale except for slight shadows, streaks,
or discolorations; free of paint except for slight, tightly adhering residues. There
should be no oil, grease, or dirt remaining. Preparation shall be a Near White Blast
(SSPC-SP 10-63T). The Steel Structures Painting Council's publication SSPC-Vial67T, "Pictorial Surface Preparation Standards for Steel
Structures," may be used as a guide. The illustrations for grade Sa 2-1/2 (very
thorough or near white blast cleaning) should be used. Note that the final
appearance of the surface depends on the original condition of the surface.
Although old vinyl paint may be difficult to remove when blasting, its removal is
important. Incomplete blasting will cause pits in the old paint and allow solvents to
be trapped, causing lifting of later paint films.
6. Spray Painting. For satisfactory spray painting, the temperature must be
at least 40 degrees F. Special care is needed to insure that the painting equipment
is thoroughly clean since alcohols used in the vinyl paints and wash primer will
break loose hardened particles of conventional paints, causing the spray gun to clog
frequently. The equipment should be cleaned with denatured ethyl alcohol before
and after use when wash primer is used, and with vinyl paint thinner before and
after use, if vinyl paint is being sprayed. All of the paints and primers in this
coating system have solvents which evaporate rapidly, so the spray gun should be
held 8-10 inches from the work to limit their evaporation. The coatings should be
applied so as to give a thoroughly wet appearance to the freshly painted surface.
None of the paints and primers need thinning under normal conditions. In cold
weather, methyl ethyl ketone, ythyl alcohol, or butyl alcohol may be used to thin
wash primer; vinyl paint thinner may be used for the vinyls. Warmth and agitation
may also be used. Do not use ordinary thinners intended for oil base paint. All
these coatings present fire and explosion hazards, and adequate ventilation is
necessary when they are being mixed. Flash point of wash primers and of vinyl
paints are approximately 50 and 40 degrees F., respectively.
7. Use of Pretreatment-Wash Primer.
a. One coat, 0.5-1.0 mil, of Pretreatment Wash Primer, Formula 117,
DOD-P-15328, is applied to the base metal to provide corrosion protection and to
promote good adhesion between the metal and subsequent coats of paint.
b. This coat should be applied to the entire buoy as soon as possible, not
more than 8 hours from the completion of the blasting.
c. Pretreatment Wash Primer must be mixed before it can be used, in the
ratio of 4 volumes of resin component to 1 volume of acid component. The resin
component should first be mixed thoroughly. Slowly pour the acid component into
the resin component while stirring and mix thoroughly. The mixture has an 8-hour
pot life, and it shall not be used if it is over 8 hours old; otherwise, poor adhesion
would result.
d. When spraying, a difference in pressure of 20-30 pounds between the
spray gun and tank should be applied uniformly to give thorough coverage and
specified film thickness. Solid hiding is not to be expected. Once the Pretreatment
Wash Primer has dried, the Vinyl Red Lead Primer should be applied within 24
hours to avoid contamination of the surface with salt spray, oil, etc. Prolonged
exposure will adversely affect the adhesion of subsequent coats. If the
Pretreatment Wash Primer has not been overcoated within a week, a second mist
coat, 0.25 mil, should be applied to insure adhesion of the first vinyl coat.
8. Use of Vinyl Red Lead Primer. Apply 3 coats (each coat, 2.5 to 3 mils) of
Vinyl Red Lead Primer to the hull and superstructure as necessary to give a total
dry film thickness of 7.5 to 9 mils. This paint is available in orange MIL-P-15929 or
brown MIL-P-23281. To insure complete coverage of each coat, alternate coats of
orange, brown, and orange, may be used so that any holidays are obvious. This
paint is not a finish coat. The air pressure when spraying should be at least 15 psi
above the liquid pressure. Each coat should consist of a vertical and a horizontal
pass of the spray gun over the area. The vinyl red lead film dries for recoating in 30
minutes at temperatures above 60 degrees F. More time is required at lower
temperatures.
9. Topcoat Application.
a. Anti-fouling Coating. (Below the waterline) apply a minimum of 2
coats (each coat, 2 mils) of Vinyl Anti-fouling Paint, Formula 121, MIL-P-15931.
Application procedures are similar to the procedures for Vinyl Red Lead Primer.
Air pressure should be at least 40 psi above liquid pressure. The vinyl anti-fouling
dries for recoating in 30 minutes at temperatures above 30 degrees F. Primers and
anti-fouling coating shall total a minimum of 12 mils dry film thickness.
b. Daymarks. (Above the waterline) apply 2 coats (each coat, 2 mils) of
Vinyl Alkyd Enamel, TT-E-2124, over the Vinyl Red Lead Primer. Refer to Table 41 for details. Primers and daymark topcoats shall total 12 to 14 mils dry fiml
thickness. These coats give the buoy its visual signal that identifies it to the user.
An air pressure should be used that is at least 40 psi above the liquid pressure.
Each coat will be dry enough for recoating in about 45 minutes at 60 degrees F., or
longer at lower temperatures. Stencil the date of painting in a conspicuous place on
the superstructure of a lighted buoy, or on the upper body of an unlighted buoy.
TABLE 4-1
Steel Buoy Coating System
SEE PAPER COPY OF THE MASTER SET
FOR APPENDIX 10 - TABLE 4-1
4.A.10. Retro-Reflective Material Application. After the buoy body and
superstructure are painted, the retro-reflective materials are applied. Unlike the
paint system, which can be applied at any temperature above 40 degrees F., the
retro-reflective material should only be applied to surfaces above 50 degrees F., that
are clean and dry. In cold weather, an electric hot air gun may be used to heat the
surface before application. The application surface should be wiped with a rag
dampened with Acetone or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) solvent to remove dust and
dirt. Apply the numeral or panel and roll flat with a rubber hand roller. Apply
edge sealer around the entire edge of the retro-reflective material using the dauber
provided in the can.
11. Coating Repair on Station.
a. Signal color coating may be touched up by buoy tender personnel
without returning the buoy to the shore base. The Vinyl Alkyd Enamel used as a
topcoat is designed for spray application, but it can be easily brushed on. Cuts and
abrasions over 6 inches in length, or those which penetrate the old coating through
to the bare metal, shall be repainted. If more than 25 percent of the surface area
presented as a visual signal is obscured with bird fouling, marine growth, or
physical deterioration (peeling, scaling, etc.), the area should be cleaned or painted
to present a "like new" appearance. First, prepare the surface by wire brushing to
remove as much dirt, rust, bird fouling, grease and salt from the surface as possible.
Then take a brush and spread the paint on without attempting to brush it out as
with ordinary paints. Because of the quick drying properties of this paint, do not
attempt to cross work more than once. Stir the paint frequently to prevent the
pigment from settling.
b. It is possible to repair a damaged antifouling film on station, but this
is usually only worthwhile when the damaged area is relatively small and isolated.
In no case should the antifouling film be applied to a steel surface which is not
protected by a primer coat in good condition.
c. To repair the antifouling coating, the area should be wire brushed to
remove as much fouling and corrosion products as possible. Dry the area as well as
possible. If any base metal is exposed, a 0.5 to 1.0 mil coat of Pretreatment Wash
Primer should be applied to these areas. The Pretreatment Wash Primer should be
allowed to dry 15-20 minutes. All areas to be subsequently covered with antifouling
should then receive a 7.5 to 9.0 mil coat of Vinyl Red Lead Primer. When the
primer is dry (about 30 minutes), the Vinyl Antifouling Paint, MIL-P-15931 may be
brushed on.
d. Retro-reflective material should be applied as described in Section 10.
12. Interior of Steel Buoys. The interior of buoys shall not be coated with paint,
oil, or preservative, with the exception of such application at the time of
manufacture. Battery pockets are to be painted with the same system as that
portion of the buoy exterior which is above the waterline. Forest Service Buoys
shall be filled with foam.
13. Steel Buoys With High Loss Probability. In some Districts, particularly the
Second and Eighth, a significant number of river class buoys are lost each year.
Whenever the expected loss of a given class of buoys exceeds 20 percent of the buoys
of that class placed on station, the following low cost paint system shall apply to
that class of buoys only:
Prepare the surface. Blast clean to bare metal, SSPC-SP5. Commercial
Blast Cleaning.
Apply one coat of Pretreatment Wash Primer, MIL-P-15328, 0.5 mil
thick.
Apply two coats of Vinyl Alkyd Enamel, TT-E-2124, to a dry film
thickness of 2.0 mils.
Touch-up when needed shall consist of removing surface contaminants
and loose paint, wiping with colvent, and reapplying the coating.
This system shall be followed above and below the waterline for lighted
and unlighted buoys.
Apply retro-reflective materials as required.
4.E. PRODUCT PROCUREMENT DATA. Product procurement data for protective
coatings for aids to navigation are presented in Table 4-2.
TABLE 4-2
Product Procurement Data--Coatings for Aids to Navigation
SEE PAPER COPY OF THE MASTER SET
FOR APPENDIX 10, TABLE 4-2
4.B.
PLASTIC BUOYS
1. General. Complete information concerning maintenance and repair of
plastic buoys is found in COMDTINST 10500.40.
2. Cleaning. To remove ordinary dirt, any common household-type cleaner
can be used. Heavy deposits of oil or grease can be removed with kerosene without
damage to the plastic. The use of strong organic solvents containing ketones, esters
or chlorinated hydrocarbons are not recommended since they could damage the
plastic. Also, hard sanding or wire brushing of the plastic surface should be
avoided.
a. Fiber Reinforced (FRP) and Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene (ABS)
Plastic. These buoys are supplied with solid green, red, or white hulls and day r ks,
and should not require painting. However, after a period of exposure, the daymark
surface may require painting to improve the appearance and maintain an effective
daymark. If fouling below the waterline becomes a problem, it can be painted with
anti-fouling paint. The following procedures shall be used:
(1) Anti-Fouling Paint.
Vinyl Cuprous Oxide Anti-Fouling Paint
(Formula 121) shall be used. The surface should be clean and dry. ABS Buoys
which have never been in the water are likely to have a slight wax residue
remaining prior to painting. This residue should be removed by following the
procedure outlined in 2., above. Buoys which have been in use must be cleaned and
degreased. The plastic hull surface below the waterline should be lightly hand
sanded to promote paint adhesion. Apply one or two coats of anti-fouling paint
directly to the surface.
(2) Above Waterline Painting. If painting is necessary, Vinyl Alkyd
Enamel (used as the top coat on steel buoys) shall be used. The plastic surface
should be prepared by cleaning and light hand sanding as described above. Apply
one or two coats of enamel, as required.
b. Crosslinked Polyethylene. The nature of this material makes it very
difficult to develop good paint adhesion. However, it is far more fade-resistant than
FRP and ABS, and should not require painting over the service life. Any fouling of
the hull can be scraped off without fear of damage to the plastic shell. If painting
should be required, the surface will require careful preparation. The plastic must
be thoroughly cleaned and hand sanded. Then, using a propane torch, a light flame
treating should be performed, using the blue tip of the flame. This will oxidize the
surface and promote paint adhesion. (This type of plastic will not melt when
exposed to the flame.) The buoy should then be painted immediately, using the
procedure described for the other materials.
FROM STATE OF ALASKA SPECIFICATIONS: *
(This was written for ship steel underbodies, but has other applications.)
Item 3. UNDERWATER BODY WORK:
SURFACE PREP
1. Hard grit sweep to remove all corrosion and existing conventional coatings.
Sand to bare metal.
2. Re-sweep any areas that have rusted and blow down with high pressure
air.
COATING
1. Apply one (1) full coat of International Intergard Epoxy (or equivalent) at
minimum 8.0 mils D.F.T. Apply one (1) full coat of International Interspeed
Antifouling (or equivalent) at 3.0 mils D.F.T., when anticorrosive is cured, yet tacky
i.e. Standard "thumb print" test. Drying time: eight (8) hours.
* Some changes have been made to more closely adapt instructions for
Forest Service use.