Fragrances, Flavors and
Food Additives
Dr. AKM Shfiqul Islam
School of Bioprocess Engineering
University Malaysia Perlis (UniMAP)
What is fragrances?

Manufacturing of perfume, cologen and toilet
water are collectively known as fragrances.
Perfume?

Perfume takes its name from Latin word
perfumare, means to fill with smoke

Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils
and aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents
used to give the human body, objects, and
living spaces a pleasant smell.
Back History

It was used in incense burned in Egyptian
templesThe incenses were mixtures of finely
ground spices held together by myrrh or storax

Later on it was discovered that if certain spices
or flowers are steeps in fats or oil, the fat or oil
would retain certain odoriferous principle.

Avicenna, the Arabian physician, discovered
the steam distillation of volatile oils.
Prior to Modern Era

Perfumes manufacture were trained through
apprenticeship in the laboratories, working
with traditional materials in well defined
pattern

They achieved skill in mixing blending of
different materials
European Era

The returning Crusaders brought the
technology to Europe.

Classical colognes are at least 200 years old
having oriented in Cologne, Germany.
Modern Era

The manufacturing process undergone drastic
changes in the past quarter centuries.
Location of Olfactory Epithelium
Quartz Crystal Smell Sensor


Lipids which is known as bioactive materials
Gas chromatography stationary phase materials
with different polarity is used in GC analysis
Concentration levels

Perfume oil is necessarily diluted with a
solvent because undiluted oils (natural or
synthetic) contain high concentrations of
volatile components that will likely result in
allergic reactions and possibly injury when
applied directly to skin or clothing.
Formulation

The precise formulas of commercial perfumes
are kept secret. Even if they were widely
published, they would be dominated by such
complex chemical procedures and ingredients
that they would be of little use in providing a
useful description of the experience of a scent.
Creation of acceptable fragrances

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It require professional knowledge
Use of available raw materials, both natural
and synthetic
Use of a variety of new types of products
requiring fragrances
Innovations in packing, e.g., aerosol sprays,
perfume powders, cream sachets, gels, lotions,
and sticks
Perfume


A perfume is defined as any mixture of
pleasantly odorous incorporated in suitable
vehicle.
The finest modern perfumes are neither wholly
synthetics nor completely natural

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to reduce the price, and
to introduce fragrances into the enchanting gamut
at present available
Constituents of perfumes

Constituents of perfumes are:



vehicles or solvents
the fixatives, and
odoriferous elements
Vehicles

Solvents used for blending and holding
perfume materials



e.g., ethyl alcohol and water at different ratios –
depend on solubility of the oils employed
It is volatile nature and helps to project the
sent it carries
It is fairly inert to solute and not too irritating
to human skin
Fixatives

Fixatives may be defined as substances of
lower volatility of the perfume oils, which
retard and even up the rate of evaporation of
the various odorous constituents

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animal secretions
resinous products
essential oils, and
synthetic chemicals

Animal Fixatives
 Civet –soft fatty acid secretion of the perineal gland of civet
cat
 Musk – dried secretion of the preputial glands of male
musk deer found in Himalayas
 Ambergris – calculus, or secretion, developed by certain
whales
 Musc zibata – extracted from glands of Louisiana muskrat.
About 90% of the unsaponifiable materials in the muskrat
gland consists of large, odorless cyclic acohols, which are
converted to ketones.
Resinous fixatives

Normal or pathological exudates from certain
plants



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Hard resins – benzoin and gums
Soft resins – myrrh and labdanum
Moderately soft (balsams) – Peru balsam, tolu
balsam, copiaba and storax
Oily materials (oleoresins) – terpenes
Essential oil fixatives

A few essential oil are used for their fixative
properties as well as their odor

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Clary sage
Vetiver
Patchouli
Orris
Sandalwood
Synthetic fixatives

These are replace of costly imported animal fixatives

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Glyceryl diacetate
Ethyl phthalate
Benzyl benzoate
Amyl benzoate
Cinnamic alcohol esters
Cinnamic acid esters
Musk ketone
Musk ambrette
Vanillin
Courmarin
Indole
Skatole
Odorous substances

Essential oils

The essential oils may be defined as volatile,
odoriferous oils of vegetable origin
Essential oils

Essential oils may be defined as volatile,
odoriferous oils of vegetable origin.

Essential oils are probably connected with
metabolism, fertilization, or protection from
enemies. It found in buds, flowers, leaves,
bark, stems, fruits, seeds, wood, roots and
rhizomes.
In some trees in oleoresinous exudates.

Essential oils

Essential oils are insoluble in water and
soluble in organic solvents, although enough
of the oil may dissolve in water to give an
intense odor to the solution, e.g., rose water or
orange flavor water.
Essential oils
The compounds occuring in essential oils are
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Esters – mainly of benzoic, salicylic, acetic and cinnamic acids
Alcohols – Linalool, geraniol, citronellol, terpinol, menthol,
borneol
Aldehydes – citral, citronellol, benzaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde,
vanillin
Acids – benzoic, cinnamic, myristic, isovaleric in the free state
Phenols – eugenol, thymol, carvacrol
Ketones – carvone, menthone, pulegone, irone, camphor, methyl
nonyl ketone, methyl heptenine
Esters – cineole, internal ether (eucalyptole), anethole, safrole
Lactones – coumarin
Terpenes – camphene, pinene, limonene, phellandrene, cedrene
Hydrocarbons – cymene, styrene (phenylethylene)
FLAVORS AND FRAGRANCES
H3C
O
C
CH 3
O CH 2 CH 2 CH CH 3
H3C
O
C
O-CH 2(CH 2)6CH 3
H3C
O
C
O-CH 2CH 2CH 3
H3C
O
C
CH 3
O-CH 2CH C CH 3
Isoamyl acetate
Octyl acetate
Propyl acetate
Isopentenyl acetate
Banana
(Alarm pheromone of honeybee)
Oranges
Pear
"Juicy Fruit"
CH 3CH 2
O
C
CH 3
O CH 2CH CH 3
Isobutyl propionate
Rum
CH 3CH 2CH 2
O
C
O CH 2CH 3
CH 3CH 2CH 2
O
C
O CH 3
H3C
O
C
O-CH 2
Ethyl butyrate
Methyl butyrate
Benzyl acetate
Pineapple
Apple
Peach
O
C
OCH 3
OH
CH 2
C
O
OCH 2CH 3
Methyl Salicylate
Ethyl phenylacetate
Oil of Wintergreen
Honey
Extraction process
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Expression
Distillation
Extraction with volatile solvents
Enfleurage
Maceration
Microwave extraction
Supercritical solvent extraction
Synthetic and semisynthetic process
in perfumes and flavors

Most of the perfumes and flavors are being
made by chemical synthetic procedure

Some constituents are chemically synthesized
from an isolate or other natural starting
materials are classed as semisynthetics
Synthesis of perfumes and
fragrances

Condensation porcess
Coumarin occurs in tonka beans and 65 other plants,
but the economical source is the synthetic. It is
employed as a fixative and enhancing agent for
essential oils and tobacco products and as a
masking agent for disagreeable odors in industrial
products.
CHO
CH3COONa
CH=CHCOONa
OH
(CH3CO)2O
OH
Salicylaldehyde
CH
CH
C=O
O
Coumarin
Synthesis of perfumes and
fragrances

Esterification

Amyl alcohol and acetic acid give isopropyl acetate
O
+
O
OH
O
HO
isoamyl alcohol
acetic acid
isopentyl acetate
Synthesis of perfumes and
fragrances

Grignard process

Phenylethyl alcohol has a roselike odor and occurs
in the volatile oils of rose, orange flowers and
others. It is a oily liquid and much used in perfume
formulation
Synthesis of perfumes and
fragrances

Hydrogenation
Food Additives

What are food additives?

Any substance added to food that changes its
characteristics

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"any substance the intended use which results or may
reasonably be expected to result-directly or indirectly-in
its becoming a component or otherwise affecting the
characteristics of any food."
These are used in the production, processing,
treatment, packaging, transportation or storage of
food.
Additives Are Used To:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Maintain product consistency
Improve or maintain nutritional value
Maintain palatability and wholesomeness
Provide leavening or control
acidity/alkalinity
Enhance flavor or bring out a desired color
Benefits of Additives
Safer and More Nutritious Foods
 Antimicrobials = prevent food poisoning from
various bacteria and molds
 Antioxidants = prevent the development of offflavors, production of potentially toxic
products, and maintain nutritional value of
vitamins and lipids
 Vitamins = prevent nutritional deficiencies
Benefits of Additives

Greater Choice of Foods

Increased development in convenience
foods, snack foods, low-calorie foods, exotic
foods, and a variety of food substitutes
Benefits of Additives

Lower-Priced Foods

Total removal of additives would result in
higher prices
Food Additives
Food additives can be divided into several groups,
although there is some overlap between them.
 Acids


Food acids are added to make flavors "sharper", and also
act as preservatives and antioxidants. Common food acids
include vinegar, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid,
fumaric acid, lactic acid.
Antioxidants

Antioxidants such as vitamin C act as preservatives by
inhibiting the effects of oxygen on food, and can be
beneficial to health.

Food coloring


Colorings are added to food to replace colors lost
during preparation, or to make food look more
attractive.
Flavors

Flavors are additives that give food a particular
taste or smell, and may be derived from natural
ingredients or created artificially.

Preservatives


Preservatives prevent or inhibit spoilage of food
due to fungi, bacteria and other microorganisms.
Sweeteners

Sweeteners are added to foods for flavoring.
Sweeteners other than sugar are added to keep the
food energy (calories) low, or because they have
beneficial effects for diabetes mellitus and tooth
decay and diarrhea.