‘Erosional processes along coastal margins’ Objective – how does erosion make the coastline look like it does? Erosional processes at the coast.. What are each? • • • • • • • Wave pounding Hydraulic action/cavitation Abrasion/corrasion Attrition Solution/corrosion Sub-aerial Human Past questions 1. Outline the processes by which the sea erodes a cliff 3 2. Outline the wave characteristics likely to lead to marine erosion 4 Rates of erosion: Why do some coastlines erode more rapidly than others? Black Ven landslip near Lyme Regis (sands, clays) Lands End Cornwall (granite) Processes affecting the rate of erosion: • • • • Atmospheric Geological Human Marine • Bullet point notes on each… Sub-aerial processes Precipitation directly Surface run-off and throughflow Hydration Salt crystallisation – a form of corrosion which helps break down weak layers of rock. Freeze-thaw – the process whereby water freezes, expands and degrades jointed rocks Biological weathering – carried out by molluscs, sponges and urchins – this is very important in low energy coastlines Bioerosion – e.g. Burrowing or browsing organisms, or the growth of algae and other marine plants on rocks. 2. Geological • Rock resistance - The strength of coastal rocks influences rates of erosion with unconsolidated volcanic ash offering the least resistance to wave attack (see table). In Britain it is coastal areas where glacial till was deposited which are being worn back most rapidly (Holderness coast). When Surtsey in Iceland first arose out of the sea in 1963, it was composed of unconsolidated volcanic ash. It was only when it was covered and protected by a lave flow the following year that its survival was guaranteed, at least in the medium term Rock type and average rates of erosion Rock type Location Rate of erosion (meters/year) Volcanic ash Krakatoa 40 Glacial till Holderness 2 Chalk SE England 0.3 Shale North Yorkshire 0.09 Granite SW England 0.001 3. • • • Geological LITHOLOGY: Coherent rocks with interlocking crystals and few lines of weakness (joints and faults) resist erosion e.g igneous and metamorphic rocks and chalk, carboniferous limestone. Incoherent rocks e.g. clay, sands, till erode easily PERMEABILITY: incidence of pore spaces. STRUCTURE: Rocks which are well-jointed or have been subject to faulting have an increased vulnerability to erosion. The steepest cliffs are usually where the rock’s structure is horizontal or vertical. If dips at angle blocks may break off and slide downwards. Bedding planes Joints 4. Human factors 1. Coastal protection May slow marine erosion to the point where sub-aerial processes dominate Groynes: built to increase the width of a beach by limiting longshore drift, repurcussions further along coast as will lose their supply of beach material and become more susceptible to erosion e.g. West Bay in Dorset £1.5 million per groyne (usually 200m apart) Sea-walls: Deflect the power of the waves back to sea, very effective. Washes the beach away therefore groynes needed as well. £7000 per metre Revetments: like a sea wall but cheaper. Break the force of the wave and trap sand behind them. Don’t protect cliff as well. £1000 per metre Beach-feeding: replaces sand. Protects land or sea wall behind the beach, looks natural. Sometimes use mining spoil which isn’t natural to that environment. £1000 per metre Cliff-slope angle: to reduce risk of mass movement. Expensive, have spoil material. Can only lower to certain degree as usually road or houses. ‘Natural’. Rip-rap (boulders). Aesthetically ugly. ‘foreign’ objects. Expensive. Easily made into defence. 5. Human factors 2. Coastal destruction Mining: removal of sand and shingle, therefore more prone to wave attack Vegetation: binds the sand together Building: on cliff tops increase pressure 6. Marine 1. Wave refraction High energy waves (paths of crests converge) Low energy waves (paths of crests diverge) Bay Headland Wave approaches irregular coastline Depth of water decreases rapidly, waves get higher and steeper, velocity decreases, shorter wavelength Marine processes 7. • Wave refraction: where waves approach an irregular coastline they are refracted i.e. they become increasingly parallel to that coastline. Best illustrated where a headland seperates 2 bays. We already know that as a wave approaches the shore it loses velocity as the depth of water decreases. As the sea bed usually shelves more rapidly off a headland than in a bay, the wave loses velocity more quickly there. The orthogonals (lines drawn at right angles to wave crests) represent 4 stages in the advance of a particular wave. It is apparent from the convergence of lines S1 S2 S3 S4 that the wave energy becomes concentrated upon, and so accentuates erosion at, the headland. • Breaking point: A wave which breaks as it hits the foot of a cliff releases most energy and causes maximum erosion. If the wave hits the cliff before it breaks, then much less energy is transmitted whereas a wave breaking further offshore will have had its energy dissipated as it travelled across the beach • Wave steepness: very steep destructive waves formed locally (sea) have more energy and erosive power than gentle constructive waves formed many kms away (swell) • Depth of sea: steeply shelving beach creates higher and steeper waves than one with a gentle gradient • Length and direction of fetch: longer the fetch, the greater the time available for waves to collect energy from the wind • Beach width: cliffs containing a readily available supply of sand will form wider beaches, leading to a greater loss of energy (waves take longer to pass over it) and the slower the rate of cliff erosion 8. Factors affecting cliff erosion Geological structure If the bands of underlying rocks are set at right angles to the coast, the rivers cut a series of deep valleys, often parallel, to reach the sea. The best known example of this type of coastline is in south western Ireland. These are known as discordant coasts. If the structure of the land runs parallel to the coast, a much less indented coastline can be seen. The best example of this type of coastline is the Adriatic coast of former Yugoslavia, although the coastline of Dorset around Lulworth Cove is similar, with the geology of parallel outcrops to the coast. These are concordant coastlines. 9. Factors affecting cliff erosion Discordant coastline Old Harry rocks Swanage Dorset 10. Factors affecting cliff erosion Concordant coastline Lulworth Cove Dorset PAST EXAM QUESTIONS For each of the three locations in the diagram identify one strategy that may be used to protect the coastline. [3 marks] Nov 2003 Evaluate the effectiveness of each of the three chosen strategies. [7 marks] Nov 2003 For each of the three locations in the diagram identify one strategy that may be used to protect the coastline. [3 marks] Nov 2003 • For each of the three locations shown in the diagram, responses should identify one appropriate technique, hard or soft, to reduce the impact of erosion. • Cliff face strategies – cliff pinning, cliff modification, drainage, gabions, vegetation cover. • Cliff foot strategies – sea walls, gabions, baffles, boulders, tetrapods. • Beach management strategies – rip-rap, groynes, beach recycling, nourishment. • Marks should be allocated on the basis of [3 % 1 mark]. (ii) Evaluate the effectiveness of each of the three chosen strategies. [7 marks] Nov 2003 • Good responses should look at the effectiveness of hard management techniques and soft management techniques. Techniques like sea walls allow little movement, whereas boulders or tetrapods and baffles are more absorbent of wave energy. Beach nourishment is more aesthetic but it is very expensive to maintain. • Stronger responses may look at the failures that have occurred with management strategies. In many areas the impact of many of the protection methods is felt elsewhere along the coastline. It is an open system and changes to one component may affect others. The question is open ended and strong responses will look at the positive and negative impacts and should focus on appropriate examples. • Marks should be awarded on the basis of [3 % 2 marks] plus [1 mark] for additional insight or comment. State two physical factors which would need to be considered when designing the most effective size of revetment. [2 marks] Nov 2006 Explain how this type of structure can prevent coastal erosion. [3 marks] Nov 2006 State two physical factors which would need to be considered when designing the most effective size of revetment. [2 marks] Nov 2006 • [1 mark] for each of any two relevant factors. These include wave height, tidal range, the angle of coastal slope, length of vulnerable coast, wave frequency, and wave energy. (ii) Explain how this type of structure can prevent coastal erosion. [3 marks] Nov 2006 • Revetments prevent coastal erosion by reducing the effects of wave action • [1 mark]. Wave energy is absorbed by open armoured rocks [1 mark]. The final • [1 mark] may be awarded for any additional relevant detail. Referring to examples, examine how human activity affects erosional processes and landforms in coastal areas. [20 marks] May 2006 Human activity often affects the type and rate of erosional processes on coasts. In general, deliberate, planned actions (such as sea walls, cliff consolidation and revetments) are often undertaken to reduce the rate of erosion, protecting constructions (settlements, communications, industry) and existing land uses. Unplanned interventions (as a result of such activities as dredging and the removal of beach material for construction) sometimes result in faster rates of erosion. The precise area where the unplanned intervention takes place is not necessarily the same area as where the erosion rate is altered. Alternative organization of the material should also be credited, for example human impacts on dune systems that increase wind erosion. Stronger responses might discuss both temporal and spatial aspects of the title, as well as clearly relate human activity to one or more of the specific erosional processes of abrasion (or corrasion), hydraulic action and solution (of limited relevance in this context). The strongest responses may also try to link human activity to rates of attrition, and thereby to variations in pebble size. As regards landforms, it is likely that most discussion will focus on cliffs, but stronger responses may also refer to a variety of other landforms. Depositional landforms should not be credited. It is not necessary for the discussion of processes and landforms to be equal for the awarding of full marks, but those responses that fail to examine both may not move beyond band E. Analyse the natural factors that cause different rates of coastal erosion. [8 marks] Nov 2006 Past exam answer • Analyse the natural factors that cause different rates of coastal erosion. [8 marks] Nov 2006 • Relevant natural factors include differences in fetch and exposure to wave action, • the lengthening of any abrasion (wave-cut) platform (which leads to a dissipation • of wave energy), changes in base level, differences in rock type and structure, cliff • morphology (angles, height, vegetation cover). The analysis should be focused • clearly on the rate of erosion, and not other characteristics. Credit responses • which mention variations in time as well as space. Past A level questions 1. Explain how wave refraction influences the rate of marine erosion 4 (Jan’01) 2. Explain why rates of marine erosion may very over time 4 (June’01) 3. Explain how rates of marine erosion may be influenced by geological factors 3 (Jan’02) 4 (June’02) 4. Explain the role of 2 factors that influences the rate at which waves erode 4 (June’03) 5. Explain the influence of human factors on rates of marine erosion 4 (Jan’04)