USING FOOD TO TEACH
HISTORY AND RELATED
SUBJECTS
AMERICAN REGIONAL
COOKERY
INTRODUCTION
Is there such as thing as “American
Cuisine?”
And
Why is that an important question?
OR
Who, Who, Who Are You?
Models of Thought Through Food
• 1. Americans as a mixture of individual
identities-a cultural stew.
• 2. Americans as a unitary culture-melting
pot.
• 3. American identity and food changing
over time: from farm to city/suburb; from
home cooking to industrialized food.
Basics
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1. Geography-how the land shapes cultures and societies at world, national, regional, and local
levels.
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2. Ecology-the importance of the environment in human life and history.
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3. Cultural Ecology-How human beings have changed their environments, created new ones, and
destroyed old ones. The effects on history of these processes.
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4. Economics-raising food (the base of all societies), processing, selling, buying-markets small
and large, economies of scale (modern food).
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5. Social Sciences- Class, social conflict, and integration.
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6. Anthropology-Food customs, celebrations, family life, hospitality, folk medicine, myths, and
identity.
A. Ethnicity
B. Gender Roles
C. Multiculturalism
D. Languages
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7. Language Arts-reading and writing recipes and about food in general.
American History Through Recipes.
Regionalism (Geography, Ecology, Cultural Ecology, Ethnicity, Immigration)
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New England: Native Peoples and Regional British-Irish-French foodways.
Land: Rocks and Sea
Ecology: Climate and native foods:
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corn for wheat-wheat for corn
Lobster
Succotash-Native American
Baked Beans-peas to beans
Chowder
Indian Pudding-molasses and honey
Blueberries
Cranberries
Dairy-women’s work
Hamburgers on Toast-more meat
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"DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING A CHOUDER" (1751)
Yield: Serves 12-16
4 pounds cod steaks
1 pound lean salt pork
4 onions
10-12 Hardtacks, or a box of Crown Pilot Crackers
1/2 teaspoon mace
4 sprigs parsley
1/2 teaspoon marjoram
1/2 teaspoon summer savory
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1 cup red wine (optional)
Equipment: Tall soup pot, another soup pot
Slice pork into thin slices. Heat half a pot of water in the other soup pot.
Put 4 or 5 of the thickest slices of the salt pork in the bottom of the soup pot and heat slowly.
Halve, peel, and slice the onions. (Wear swim goggles to avoid tears.)
Break up the hardtacks (if using) and soak in water to begin softening them.
When the salt pork is frying nicely, add a layer of onions, then put in some of the fish steaks.
Put on a sprig of parsley and sprinkle on some of the spices and a little salt and pepper.
Top with some of the crackers or hardtacks.
Now start again with a few slices of salt pork; a layer of onions; more fish steaks; another round of herbs,
spices, salt and pepper; and more crackers or hardtacks.
It's better to end with salt pork or fish.
When you get to the top, add the cup of wine, if using. Then fill the pot with hot water to cover all the
layers by an inch.
Bring (back) to a boil, then reduce heat so it barely simmers. You may need to add more hot water if the
hardtacks are very dry and absorb it. Simmer about 30 minutes. The idea is to cook all the fish steaks so
they don't entirely fall apart, while giving the broth a chance to develop flavors and thicken.
Serve in bowls making sure each person gets some good hunks of fish and a slice of salt pork. Because
there is no milk, this kind of chowder was seasoned at the table with lemon juice, or sharp sauces like
Worcestershire sauce.
Middle Atlantic
English, Scotch-Irish, Germans, African-American/Caribbean-then the Great
Mix
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Land: the Bread Colonies
Ecology: European plants and animals replace natives
Wheat for Corn
Cattle and pigs for deer
Bread
Scrapple-German
Cream Cheese-Dutch/German
Hot Pots-Dutch and Afro-Caribbean
Shoo Fly (Molasses) Pie-Penna Dutch
Tomatoes-Tomato Soup
Doughnuts-Dutch
Bagels and Jewish foods
Cheese Steak-Italian-American
Snitz and Knep
Recipes: Receipts from Godey's Lady's Book, edited by Lily May Spaulding and John Spaulding. It is an old
Pennsylvania Dutch dish, originally eaten without the ham for Lent and still enjoyed as "Schnitz un Gnepp." For many
poor Appalachian farm families, dried apples were the only winter sweet until maple syrup making.
Yield: Serves 6-10
4 cups dried apples
Inch-thick ham steak or 2 to make an inch of thickness
1 cup whole milk
1 medium egg
3 cups flour
2 teaspoons dry yeast, or 1/4 cup Potato Yeast
Equipment: Breadboard, tall soup pot with
If using dry yeast, dissolve in a little warm water with a pinch of sugar.
Warm the milk to lukewarm.
Beat the egg, and stir into the milk.
Add 1/2 teaspoon salt to milk. When the yeast has a foam of bubbles on top, add the yeast and one cup of the flour to
the milk.
Stir the batter well and cover with kitchen towel until bubbly and light throughout.
Put apples in soup pot with water to cover.
Arrange ham steaks on top.
Bring water to a boil, but reduce he to a bare simmer.
Warm more water in a teakettle- the dried apples will absorb water and must be kept moist so they do n burn.
Stir the rest of the flour into th batter, to make a soft dough. You ma need a little more flour or water.
Form dough into a loaf shape, and allow to rise until about 20 minu before serving dinner.
With a very sharp knife, cut 1/2 inch "slices" from the dough and arrange o top of the ham.
Cover pot tightly to steam dum ling slices.
Serve as a one-pot supper.
The South: Native plants and peoples, introduced plants and animals, immigration
(Regional British-Irish-French-German-Spanish foodways, multiculturalism,
caste and class).
Land: varied, from hot coastal plains to Appalachian highlands
Ecology: Foods depend on local ecology and climate, native foods supplement foods from
Europe, Africa and Asia: peanuts and corn; hogs and rice.
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Barbecued ribs-hog and hominy
Chow Chow-Pickling
Okra (Gumbos)-Gulf Coast
Fried Chicken
Grits
Greens
Red-eye Gravy
Rice-Carolina-low country
Brunswick Stew-upcountry
Hush Puppies-fried everything
Catfish-fried and otherwise
Peanuts-America’s flexible food
Coca-Cola/Pepsi-Cola
Sweetened TeaFruit Cobblers
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GROUND-NUT SOUP ( 1847)
The peanut was developed in South America, but was introduced from Brazil to Africa in the early 1500s. It
quickly replaced a native African groundnut in seasoning pastes, stews, and soups like this one. Slaves
brought the peanut plant to the United States, where peanuts are still sometimes called "goober peas," from
the Bantu (and Gullah dialect) term, "nguba." The chile peppers in the recipe had almost the same history.
The oysters were locally cheap in Charleston, where the recipe was published by Sarah Rutledge in The
Carolina Housewife. Peanut soup is also supposed to have been a favorite dish of George Washington, who
had a substantial oyster fishery at Mount Vernon. Since slaves and free African-Americans were active in
collecting oysters and peddling them door-to-door, this dish was probably invented entirely by AfricanAmericans and taken up by white planters in places like Charleston, where slaves were the majority of the
population. Significantly, Miss Rutledge's next recipe is a nearly identical soup substituting "Bennie"
(sesame seeds)—another African import that retained its African name locally—for the groundnuts.
To a half a pint shelled ground-nuts, well beaten up, add two spoonsful of flour, and mix well. Put to them a
pint of oysters, and a pint and a half of water. When boiling, throw on a seed pepper or two, if small.
Yield: Serves 6
1 cup peanuts
1/4 cup flour
2 cups oysters
1-2 dried red chiles
Equipment: Food processor, spatula, soup pot
Process peanuts in short bursts about a minute to make a rough paste.
Add the flour and pulse a few more times to blend.
Heat up the peanut butter in a soup pot, and stir in 3 cups of water and the oysters with their liquor.
Add the dried pepper and bring to a boil.
Reduce heat to a simmer and cook 10 minutes, stirring frequently so soup does not stick and burn.
Remove pepper before serving. Serve hot, perhaps with rice.
Midwest: Native plants and peoples, introduced plants, immigration, ethnicity,
food economies (local economies and industrial production).
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Land: From Appalachians on East to the Prairies of the trans-Mississippi, from the Ohio River
Valley to the Great Lakes and Great Plans-highly varied.
Ecology: Some native plants and animals remain-corn, turkey, deer, persimmons, wild rice,
cranberries, blueberries. But ecology transformed with imported plants and animals-soybeans,
potatoes, wheat, cattle, sheep, pigs.
Dairy and Cheese-mainly German, Dutch
Sausages- German, Jewish, Polish
Apple or Cherry Pie-English
Whitefish-smoked, boiled, fried-German, Scandinavian
Dumplings/noodles-German, E. European
Pirogi
Toasted Ravioli-St. Louis
Soybeans-recent transformation
Persimmons
Blueberries
Cranberries
Any creamed dish-Devolved French
Soul Food
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MILK GRAVY (1911
Mrs. Nickey recalls light suppers of biscuits and milk gravy, still popular in both the
Rocky Mountain states and the Ohio-Indiana region from which many homesteaders
came. Milk gravy was also used on boiled potatoes, mashed potatoes, cornbread,
and pancakes. "An instant milk made according to directions makes acceptable
gravy."
Yield: Serves 4
4 tablespoons bacon grease
6 tablespoons flour
2 cups whole milk (or 11/2 cups canned evaporated milk)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Equipment: Large skillet, flat whisk
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.Melt bacon grease and stir in flour.
Keep stirring carefully until the flour is a golden brown (lighter than peanut butter). Don't burn
the flour and don't burn yourself on the hot greasy mix. ture.
.Remove from heat and stir in one cup of hot water and then the milk (or 11/2 cups of water
and the evaporated milk).
When well mixed, return to heat and cook, stirring constantly, until it is well thickened.
Season with the salt and pepper.
"I have seen some people take two of biscuits at one time, break them open, them on
the plate, and then cover the bis liberally with milk gravy. It takes a big b gravy to take
care of a situation like that, so might want to double the recipe."
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FRESH CORN FRITTERS
These mock oysters made of freshly shucked corn were a great favorite in the America
of the late 1800s and through the early years of this century. Some recipes call for deep
frying the "oysters" and others—most likely for reasons of economy rather than health
—instruct you to cook them more like griddle cakes. These are terrific with breakfast,
but make an equally good appetizer, especially when served with tartar sauce.
4 to 5 cobs sweet corn, shucked,
or substitute 2 cups frozen
kernels, thawed
2 eggs, separated
13 cup flour
Pinch cayenne pepper
Salt
Ground black pepper
Butter, melted
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Corn Oysters
1. Cook the fresh corn in lightly salted boiling water until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and
cool. Using a sharp knife, cut the kernels off the cobs. Measure 2 cups corn into a bowl.
.Stir the egg yolks and flour into the corn. Season with cayenne and salt and pepper to taste.
Beat the egg whites until firm and shiny. Fold into the corn mixture.
Heat a griddle or heavy frying pan over moderate heat. Brush with melted butter. Drop the corn
batter by spoonfuls the size of a fried oyster (about 2 inches in diameter) onto the griddle.
Brown on both sides, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Serve immediately.
Mary at the farm and Book of Recipes by Edith M. Thomas
Southwest: Native plants and peoples, introduced plants and animals, immigration
(Southern American-Hispanic foodways, multiculturalism, caste and class,
cultural identity).
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Land: drylands, fertile valleys, vast prairie
Ecology: native foods remain-beans, corn, chilies with additions of cattle and wheat. Hispanic
influence great.
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Posole-hominy
Tamales
Tacos-Tex-Mex
Chicken Fried Steak-English-German-Appalachian
Beef Chili
Fajitas-recent American-Mexican
Green Chile Stews-native
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Tamale Pie
CORNMEAL SAUSAGE PIE
Tamale pie is as authentically Tex-Mex as chili con carne. There are numerous variations on this casserole
of cornmeal and meat, some using chili as a base, others using the same masa meal that Mexicans use for
real tamales. Either way, it is a homey meal that may lack the complexity of tamales steamed in corn husks,
but then again it does not take hours to prepare.
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1. Preheat oven to 375°F.
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1 teaspoon vegetable oil
1/2 pound sausage meat or Mexican chorizo, crumbled
1/2 pound ground beef
2 tablespoons chili powder
1 large garlic clove, minced
1/2 cup cornmeal
1 cup milk
1/2 cup tomato juice
2 eggs
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1/4 teaspoon salt
.Heat the oil in a large skillet over moderately high heat. Add the sausage and beef and cook until browned
and cooked through, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add the chili powder and garlic and cook 1 more minute. Drain
off any excess fat. Spoon into a 9-inch pie plate.
Combine the cornmeal, milk, tomato juice, eggs, and salt and stir until smooth. Pour over the meat mixture.
Set in the oven and bake until firm and golden, about 30 minutes. Serve hot.
Favorite Recipes of Colfax County Club Women compiled by the Colfax County Home Demonstration
Clubs
SERVES 4 TO 5
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Spanish Chicken
CHICKEN STEWED WITH TOMATOES AND CHILES
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A favorite dish of silent screen stars Mary Pickford and Constance Bennett. This version comes
from Miss Bennett.
1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
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1/2 cup flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon powdered thyme
A 3 1/2-pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces
1/4 cup olive oil
3 small onions, peeled and cut in half
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon chopped celery
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 dried New Mexican or Anaheim chile, stemmed, seeded, and crumbled fine
1 large tomato, sliced
1 cup grated Monterey Jack cheese
1/2 teaspoon paprika
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Stir together the flour, salt, pepper, and thyme. Dredge the chicken in the seasoned flour. Heat the
oil in a large flameproof casserole over moderately high heat. Add the chicken pieces and fry until
browned on all sides. Pour off the fat. Add the onions, parsley, celery, garlic, and chile to the pan.
Add cup water. Cover, set in the oven, and bake until the chicken is tender, about 45 minutes.
Remove the cover, arrange the tomatoes over the chicken, and sprinkle with the cheese and
paprika. Place the casserole, uncovered, in the oven and bake 15 minutes longer. Serve hot.
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California and Northwest
Immigrants
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Land: Varied, richest agricultural regions and microenvironments
Ecology: Almost entirely introduced foods, save for fish.
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California
Salads-lettuces including iceberg-invented food
Chop Suey-Chinese
Chow Mien-Chinese
Garlic
Tuna Fish
Taquitos-Cal-Mex
Avocado-Mexico
Burrito-recent Cal-Mex
California Pizza-chef invented
Almonds
Artichokes
Wines
Canned fruits and vegetables, including pineapple
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Grilled Veggie Hero with Roasted Garlic Spread
This sandwich is great for using up some of the bounty from the farmers' market. The hours that it spends wrapped in plastic
make this a terrific dish for entertaining or to take on a picnic.
1 head garlic
Olive oil for drizzling and brushing
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 portobello mushroom caps
2 to 3 zucchini or yellow squash, sliced lengthwise into thirds
1 Vidalia or red onion, thickly sliced crosswise
2 red peppers, cut in half, stems, ribs, and seeds remove
One 7-ounce log goat cheese
2 tablespoons whole milk or sour cream
1 loaf rustic bread such as ciabatta
1 tomato, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 bunch arugula or 3 cups fresh spinach, chopped
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Cut off the top quarter of the garlic head to expose the cloves. Drizzle with oil, sprinkle with salt
and pepper, and wrap tightly in aluminum foil. Place on a cookie sheet and bake until soft, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove
from the oven and set aside to cool.
Preheat the broiler. Brush the mushroom caps, zucchini or squash, onion, and peppers with oil and season with salt and
pepper. Broil 3 to 4 inches from the element until tender, about 10 minutes, turning once. Set aside to cool.
Squeeze the roasted garlic out of the skin into a small bowl and mash with a fork. Add the goat cheese, milk or sour cream,
and salt and pepper to taste, continuing to mash well with a fork until blended.
Cut the bread in half and open it like a book. Spread both sides of the bread with the goat cheese mixture. Slice the roasted
vegetables into strips and layer them on one side of bread. Top the vegetables with tomato slices. Drizzle with vinegar. Top
with arugula or spinach and replace the top half of the bread to make a sandwich. Press the length of the sandwich firmly
with the palm of your hand to compress it slightly. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and press under a weight (2 cans of tomatoes
on top of a cutting board works well) for 2 to 3 hours to combine the flavors and improve the sandwich texture. Cut into
portions and serve.
Serves 6 as part of a picnic buffet
NOTE: The vegetables can be grilled a day ahead and the roasted garlic spread can be made up to 2 days ahead and stored in
the refrigerator.
Northwest
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Wines
Wild Salmon-native
Apples
Pears
Asparagus
Potatoes-Plateau
Grapes
Wines
Beer (hops and micro-Breweries)
Starbuck’s Coffee
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Wild Salmon Teriyaki
This recipe not only makes a delicious dinner, the leftovers serve double duty as the base for a
second meal of fried rice.
One 2-inch knob fresh ginger
1 to 2 garlic cloves
1/2 cup soy sauce
'/2 cup chicken stock (see recipe, page 78) or water
2 tablespoons rice vinegar or white wine vinegar 2 tablespoons blackstrap molasses or honey
1 pinch red pepper flakes (optional)
2 pounds wild salmon fillets
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
Place the ginger, garlic, soy sauce, chicken stock, vinegar, molasses, and red pepper flakes in a
blender and puree until smooth. Place the salmon in a nonreactive bowl or casserole just large
enough to hold the fish in one layer. Cover with the marinade and refrigerate for 20 minutes,
turning the salmon once halfway through.
While fish marinates, preheat the broiler and oil a broiling pan (in place of a broiling pan I use a
cake cooling rack that fits neatly into a cookie sheet. The fish doesn't stick to the rack if I oil it well
and the cookie sheet catches any drips).
Remove the fish from the marinade and place it skin-side-up on the broiling pan. Broil the fish
approximately 4 inches from the broiling element until the skin is crispy and starts to bubble, 7 to
10 minutes. Run a spatula under the fish to loosen it from the rack and flip it over. Broil on the
second side until dark brown, another 7 to 10 minutes. Test for doneness by inserting a fork into
the center of the fillet. The fish should be opaque and flaky all the way through. If not quite done,
turn the broiler off and bake at 425°F until cooked through.
While the fish is broiling, pour the remaining marinade into a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, then
simmer for 5 minutes to make a delicious sauce.
Serve the salmon with rice and steamed vegetables and pass the sauce separately on the side.
(from Sherri Brooks Vinton and Ann Clark Espuelas, The Real Food Revival)