1.00 Understand the
fundamentals of the fashion
industry.
MERCHANDISE
INFORMATION
1.02 Understand the basics
of textile fabrics and
finishes.
Textile Industry Terms
• Fiber: The smallest unit in a textile fabric.
• Yarn: A group of fibers twisted together to form a
continuous strand.
• Fabric: Any material that is made by weaving, knitting,
braiding, knotting, laminating, felting, or chemical
bonding.
• Hand: The way a fabric feels to the touch.
• Denier: Thickness or diameter of a fiber.
• Microfibers: Ultra fine, soft, luxurious fibers
possessing the same desirable qualities as expensive
natural fibers but costing less and requiring less special
care.
• CAD (Computer Aided Design): Computer system
software used for designing textiles, fashion, apparel,
and other products.
Natural fibers
Fibers from plants or animal sources.
•Staple fibers:
Lower quality,
short fibers.
•Filament fibers:
Long, continuous
fibers of higher
quality.
•Cellulosic fibers:
Fibers from plants.
•Protein fibers: Fibers
derived from animals or
insects.
Manufactured fibers
Fibers that are man-made (synthetic) and
are created by combining various
substances with chemicals.
•Solid raw materials and chemicals are melted
or dissolved to form a thick liquid.
•The liquid is forced through the tiny holes
of a mechanical device known as a spinnerette
to form filaments. (Similar to pushing dough
through a pasta machine to make spaghetti.)
•The filaments are then stretched, hardened,
and crimped and/or cut into lengths.
Manufactured fibers
(cont.)
•Cellulosic manufactured fibers are made
from cellulose from plants such as soft
wood pulp and are changed into usable
fibers by applying chemicals.
•Noncellulosic manufactured fibers are
made from various petrochemical mixtures
of crude oil, natural gas, air, and water.
Blend: A combination of two or
more fibers that maximizes the
best features of each fiber.
•Example: Combining cotton with
polyester
Characteristics, care, and uses
of natural fibers for apparel
• Key terms: cellulosic fibers,
cotton, flax, fur, leather, natural
fibers, protein fibers, silk, and
wool
Natural fibers
• Cotton
• Flax (linen)
• Wool
• Silk
Cotton
The soft, white, downy fiber (boll)
attached to the seed of a cotton plant.
• Most widely used of all natural
fibers
• Grown in the southern U.S. and
other warm climates
• Characteristics:
Strong and durable
Absorbent
Cool to wear
Shrinks in hot water
Wrinkles easily
Cotton
• Proper care
– Machine wash
– Tumble dry at
moderate
temperatures
– Press with warm to
hot iron
• Common uses:
Underwear
Socks
Shirts, blouses
Jeans
Towels, sheets
Wool
The fiber that forms the coat
(fleece) of sheep.
• Primary sources are Australia,
South America, New Zealand, and
United Kingdom
• Characteristics:
Natural insulator; warmest of
all natural fibers
Soft and resilient
Naturally flame retardant
Absorbs moisture more slowly
than cotton
Shrinks if machine washed
or dried unless chemically
treated
Affected by moths
Wool
Common uses:
•Sweaters
•Tailored suits
•Coats
•Blankets
•Upholstery
•Rugs, carpets
• Proper care for
untreated wool:
– Dry clean or hand
wash in cool water
and a mild detergent
(according to
garment label)
– Do not place in dryer
– Press with cool iron
Flax
The fiber that comes
from the stem of a
flax plant.
• Grown and harvested
primarily in Eastern
Europe
• Linen is made by
weaving or knitting flax
fiber into fabric.
• Common uses:
– Pants
– Blazers
– Table linens
– Upholstery
Flax
• Characteristics
– Durable and strong
– Lustrous and smooth
– Comfortable and cool
to wear
– Wrinkles easily
– Creases difficult to
remove
– Can be expensive
• Proper Care:
– Hand wash or dry
clean (according to
garment label)
– Iron while damp
Silk
The fine, lustrous fiber that
comes from a cocoon spun by a
silkworm.
• The silkworm forces
two fine streams of a
thick liquid out of tiny
openings in its head.
• These streams harden
into filaments or fibers
upon contact with the
air.
• Primarily produced in
Asia (Thailand, China,
India), and Madagascar
• Characteristics:
– Luxurious
appearance and
feel
– Strongest of all
natural fibers
– Drapes nicely
– Expensive
– Easily spots if
fabric becomes
wet
– Weakens with
exposure to sun
and perspiration
Silk
Silk
Proper Care:
– Dry clean or hand
wash (according to
garment directions)
– Press on wrong side
with warm iron
Common uses:
– Wedding gowns
– Lingerie
– Men’s ties
Leather and Fur
• Leather and fur are from the hides or skins
of animals.
• Leather: A tough, flexible material made by
preserving animal hides through a process
called tanning.
Tanning converts hides
into finished
usable leather.
Leather
•Leather is used for:
Handbags
Shoes
Belts
Jackets
•Primary sources:
Cattle
Goatskins
Sheepskins
Reptiles
Suede: Leather with a napped
surface on the flesh side.
Fur
• Fur is used for:
– Coats
– Outerwear
– Trimmings
Common Sources
– Mink
– Chinchilla
– Fox
– Rabbit
The soft, hairy
coat of an animal.
Characteristics, care, and
uses of manufactured
fibers
• Key terms: acetate, acrylic,
aramid, lyocell, manufactured
fibers, modacrylic, nylon, olefin,
polybenzimidazole (PBI),
polyester, rayon, spandex, and
triacetate
Manufactured fibers
• Polyester
• Rayon
• Nylon
• Acetate
• Acrylic
• Spandex
Polyester
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Made from coal or petroleum
Strong and often blended with other fibers
Resistant to wrinkling
Shrink and stretch resistant
Easy to care for
Great washability
Pills easily
Static buildup
• Common uses:
– Children’s wear, shirts, suits
Nylon
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
First fiber to be manufactured totally from chemicals
Strong, durable, elastic
Dries quickly
Resists wrinkles and soil
Washes easily
Heat sensitive
Clings to the wearer
• Common uses:
– Hosiery, swimwear, windbreakers
Acrylic
• Resembles wool
• Soft and warm
• Bulky, yet
lightweight
• Quick drying
• Strong
• Wrinkle
resistant
• Static buildup
• Pills easily
Common uses:
• Terrycloth
• Bathrobes
• Knitted
garments
• Outdoor
furniture
fabrics and
awnings
Rayon
•
•
•
•
Soft, absorbent, and comfortable
Inexpensive
Stretches and is weak when wet
Mildews and wrinkles easily
Common uses:
– Linings
– Sports shirts
– Jackets
Acetate
•
•
•
•
•
•
Very versatile
Inexpensive and easy to dye
Silky, luxurious
Deep luster, soft
Wrinkles easily
Special care needed in cleaning
• Common uses:
–
–
–
–
Neckties
Lingerie
Blouses
Linings
Spandex
• Known for its ability to stretch
• Resistant to lotions, oils, sun, and
perspiration
• Easily damaged by chlorine bleach
• Soft, lightweight
• Durable
• Nonabsorbent
• Common uses:
– Swimwear
– Dancewear
– Exercise wear
Common fabric
construction methods and
examples of fabric finishes
• Key terms: antistatic, bleaching, bonded
fabrics, braided fabrics, brushing,
calendaring, crease or wrinkle resistant,
dyeing, finishes, flame resistant,
knitting, laces or net, mildew resistant,
mercerization, moth-resistant, napping,
nonwoven fabrics, permanent press or
durable press, preshrunk or Sanforized,
printing, quilted fabrics, Scotchgard,
sizing, soil release, waterproof, waterrepellent, and weaving
Steps involved in
fabric production
1. Fibers are usually twisted together and spun
into yarns.
2. Yarns are either woven or knitted to form
fabric.
3. Color is added by dyeing or printing to
enhance the fabric’s appeal.
4. A finish is applied to make the fabric suitable
for its end use and to improve its appearance.
Turning Yarn into Fabric
Weaving: The process of interlacing one or more
sets of yarns at right angles on a loom.
•Warp yarns: Yarns that
run lengthwise in woven
fabric.
•Weft yarns: Yarns that
run crosswise in woven
fabric.
Turning Yarn into Fabric
•Grain: The direction of
the lengthwise and
crosswise yarns or threads
in a woven fabric.
•Bias: The diagonal grain
of a fabric. The bias
provides the greatest
“give” or stretch in the
fabric.
(cont.)
Weaving
Plain weave
• Plain weave: The simplest
weave in which the weft
(crosswise) yarn is passed
over then under each warp
(lengthwise) yarn.
– A basket weave is one
variation, with the weft
yarn passing over two and
under two warp yarns each
pass.
– Examples: Chiffon,
seersucker, taffeta
Weaving
Twill weave
• Twill weave: A weave in
which the weft yarn is
passed over and under
one, two, or three warp
yarns beginning one warp
yarn back on each new
row.
– Used for durability, this
weave produces a diagonal
design on the surface.
– Examples: denim,
gabardine
Weaving
• Satin weave: A weave
that produces a
smooth, shinysurfaced fabric
resulting from passing
the weft yarn over
and under numerous
warp yarns to create
long floats.
– Examples: sateen,
satin
Satin weave
Weaving
Other weaves
• Pile weave—corduroy,
velvet
• Dobby—dotted swiss,
pique
• Jacquard—brocade,
damask
• Leno—fabrics with an
open, lacy appearance
Knitting
Constructing fabric by looping yarns
together.
• Weft knits: Knits made with
only one yarn that runs
crosswise forming a horizontal
row of interlocking loops.
– Cut edges will curl.
– Weft knits run if snagged.
– Examples: jersey, ribbed knits,
sweater knits
Knitting
(cont.)
• Warp knits: Knits made
with several yarns creating
loops that interlock in the
lengthwise direction.
– Do not ravel
– Have selvage edges
– Examples: tricot, raschel knits
• Gauge: The number of
stitches, or loops, per inch
in a knitted fabric.
Additional ways to construct
fabric
• Nonwoven. Fibers are compacted together using
moisture, heat, chemicals, friction, or pressure.
Examples: quilt batting, garment interfacings, felt,
artificial suede
• Laces and nets. Made by knotting, twisting, or
looping yarns. Example: lace
• Braided fabrics. Created by interlacing three or
more yarns to form a regular diagonal pattern down
the length of the resulting cord. Examples:
decorative trims, shoelaces
• Bonded fabric. Made by permanently fastening
together two layers of fabric by lamination.
Examples: two fabrics bonded so that one serves as a
self-lining as in skiwear or winter coats
Additional ways to construct
fabric (cont.)
• Quilted fabric. A layer of padding or batting is
sandwiched between two layers of fabric and held in
place by stitching. Examples of use: bedspreads,
placemats, and outerwear
Fabric finishing
Applying colors, designs or surface treatments
that change the look, feel, or performance of
fabrics.
• Bleaching: Chemical processes that remove
color, impurities, or spots from fibers.
• Dyeing: A method of giving color to a fiber,
yarn, fabric, or garment.
• Printing: The process of adding color, pattern,
or design to the surface of fabrics.
Finish categories
• Chemical: Finishes
• Mechanical: Finishes
that become part of
that are applied
mechanically rather than the fabric through
chemical reactions
chemically.
with the fibers.
– Affect size and
appearance
– Examples: glazing,
embossing,
brushing/napping/cutting
(corduroy)
– Affect performance
– Examples: flame
retardant, stain
resistant
(Scotchgard®),
waterproof,
permanent press,
preshrunk
(Sanforized®)
Trends
and
Technology
Equipment and machinery
• More automated weaving and knitting
machines
• Color management tools that can
synchronize a colored design on a
computer screen, a paper printout, and
the actual fabric color
• Sophisticated CAD tools with 3D
capabilities
• Processes constantly monitored by
computer systems
Microfibers
• Enhanced characteristics for high
performance fabrics resulting in
production of intelligent garments
- wicking (a fiber’s ability to draw
moisture away from the body so it
can evaporate)
- coolness
- warmth
- protection
Development of new
recycling processes
• Plastic soda bottles converted into
polyester fiber
− used to make fabric for t-shirts and
filling for pillows
− can be recycled numerous times
without losing its performance
attributes
Nonwoven fabrics
• Finding increasing use in reusable
apparel and other products
– replacing traditional knits and wovens
– widely used as interlinings in blouses, jackets,
shirts, and waistbands
– introduced for fishing and hunting apparel
– used for medical textiles with special barrier
materials to protect those in the operating
room
– printed nonwovens used for tops and blouses
– also found in the SPF garments (garments that
allow you to tan through the fabric at a
controlled rate)
Individuality
• More choices in clothing for consumers
• Demand for mass-customization in clothing.
– In any mall, customers can find a store that will
print a custom design on a t-shirt or embroider a
customized design on a cap.
– Land’s End will monogram initials on a garment.
– Brooks Brothers handles orders for custom-made
shirts or suits.
– Mass customization is prevalent in the uniform
sector where logos and names are embroidered or
printed on garments. Examples: Federal Express,
Postal Service, and football teams
New and improved textiles
• Required to protect those who face hazardous
environments
• Lighter and stronger textiles required for sports
• Absorbable, antibiotic, antimicrobial, durable, selfdecontaminating, and comfortable textiles required
for medical applications
• Better filters, road-building fabrics, geotextiles, and
textiles for spaceships and communication systems
required for industrial use
• Demand for textiles that can be reused and/or
recycled
Smart fibers
“Smart
fibers of the future
will inform or assist the
wearer. Potential
applications include clothes
that monitor the medical
condition of the wearer,
that warn of the presence
of toxic chemicals, or that
adjust to suit the wearer’s
environment”.
Dr. Niall Finn, CSIRO Textile and Fiber Technology
Mirrors
“High-performance mirrors have been
formed into hair-thin fibers and woven
into fabrics and paper.”
– Could create clothing and documents with
advanced capabilities
• Clothes that reflect and protect against
invisible microwaves and radiation
• Clothes that can change colors like a
chameleon
Massachusetts Institute of Technology
Government regulations
• The Wool Products Labeling Act (1939) provides that all
garments made of wool have a label indicating the
percentage and kind of wool used.
• The Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (1958)
requires that all clothing have a label listing the generic
fiber content by percentage.
• The Flammable Fabrics Act (1953) regulates the sale of
highly flammable fabrics used in apparel and prohibits the
sale of extremely flammable fabrics.
• The Permanent Care Labeling Act (1972) requires that all
clothing offered for sale in retail stores have a label
indicating specific care instructions. New symbols for use
in this labeling were introduced in 1997.