Stitches and Construction
Appliqué
Appliqué is the term used to describe attaching a small piece of fabric to a larger
piece of fabric, to create a desired design. It is usually done to add a form of fabric artwork. The
smaller piece of fabric may be attached using hand stitching or machine stitching.
There are many methods of attaching appliqué.
 Some methods require turning under the edges of the artwork that is being attached to a
larger piece of fabric, which then allows the artwork to be attached with fine hand
stitches.
 Other methods allow you to "glue" the artwork on with fusing methods and then enclose
the raw edge of the artwork with decorative machine stitching.
Pronunciation: Ap-la-kay
Casing
Fabric envelope of sorts for en"casing" elastic, a drawstring, or similar material,
usually along a waistline, cuff, hem. Elastic waist slacks have a casing into which the elastic is
woven. Sweat pants have a turned up casing into through which elastic is encased (if there are
not ribbed cuffs). Also the channel at the top of curtains through which the curtain rod is placed.
Clean finish (or finish)
Finishing a raw edge with zigzag stitching, serging, turning under
and pressing, pinking shears, etc. Gives the seam a "clean" finish and can prevent raveling.
Helpful with hems.
Clip (curve) Methods vary from person to person, but to clip a curve keep in mind that an
outside curve (shaped like an upside down U) needs to be clipped to within a breath of the seam
line. An inside curve (shaped like a right side up U) can be either clipped or you can cut very
small notches (V shape) out of the curve itself in order to have it lay flat and not make bunches
when the project or garment is done. If you use a serger to finish your seams, clipping is not an
issue.
Cutting line On a pattern, the outermost dark line is the line upon which you cut. Traditions
vary; some people cut through the center of this line, others cut just to the outside of this line.
Dart
A V shaped, tapered adjustment (usually a fold on the inside of the piece) to a
pattern to allow for more fullness in the bust area or less fullness in other areas (waist)
Ease
A way of sewing a length of fabric into a bit of a smaller space without resulting
in gathers or puckers. Also - Seam or other addition that allows a garment to fit the body better.
Edgestitch
A stitch done a scant 1/8" from the folded or seamed edge.
Facing
Fabric sewn on the raw edge of a garment piece that is turned under and serves as
a clean finish for the edge as well. Interfacing is often used with a facing, especially collars,
cuffs, and plackets upon which buttonholes will be made.
Finger press/ing
Using your fingers and pressure to open a seam that may not be suitable
for pressing with an iron or a wooden block.
Finish (an edge)
Turn under 1/4" and stitch, serge the edge, or other method of finishing the
edge so it doesn't ravel or cause a bulky problem.
Flat felled seam
A seam created by sewing fabric wrong sides together, trimming one of
the seam allowances close to the seam, then turning the other seam allowance under and top
stitching it over the prior trimmed seam allowance. This is often used for reinforcing seams on
pajamas or to reduce bulk in a seam. It can be used as a decorative finish on any garment.
Fold line
Many pattern pieces are placed on the fold of a piece of fabric. This is the actual
fold of the fabric off the bolt or a fold of your own creation; the goal is to have a pattern piece
that is cut out without a center seam.
French seam Completely enclosed seam. Used for sheer fabrics or for high couture.
Gather
Gathering allows for making a long piece of fabric to fit with a shorter piece of
fabric and also is a method of easing a seam to allow insertion of sleeves and other rounded
pattern pieces. When making an apron, there is a waistband that is the size of the person's waist,
plus some extra for tying the apron around the body. The apron itself usually is gathered, fluffy,
almost pleated and has more fabric that flows from the waistband. The apron seam was gathered
and then sewn to the waistline. To gather the seam, two parallel lines are sewn on the right side
of the fabric, a scant 1/4" apart. Long tails of thread are left for gathering. The bobbin threads (on
the wrong side of the fabric) are held on either end of the seam and gently tugged, gathering the
fabric evenly on the threads. Do not scrimp and only sew one thread of long length stitches; you
will need both. (Gathering and easing are similar, but not the same.)
Give
Elasticity - the fabric gives (as in stretches) a little.
Grading (seams)
Trimming raw edges in graduate widths to reduce bulk. The narrowest
seam edge should be closest to the body, as a general rule.
Hem
Fabric that it turned up on the lower edge of a garment or sleeve to provide a
finished edge. Often extra fabric is left in the hem with children's clothing to allow for growth
(especially skirts and slacks).
Lining
Used to finish the inside of a garment, to hide the seam construction, to allow for
ease of putting a garment on or taking it off, and to provide decorative effect. A lining is cut of
the same pattern pieces as the garment and often is made of "slippery" fabrics. It provides a
minimal amount of warmth and usually extends the life of a garment. Linings should be
washable if the garment is washable and should be prewashed.
Miter
Mitering a corner makes a smooth, tidy finish to a 90-degree corner, neatly
squaring the corners while creating a diagonal seam from the point of the corner to the inside
edge. Mitering is used for quilts corners, craft projects, some vests and jackets, and sometimes
on collars.
Notch
Usually, the notch is shown on a pattern with a dark diamond. They are
commonly cut outward and should be matched on seams when joining for sewing.
Overlock
An overcast stitch to prevent raveling of fabric. There are sewing machines made
to do overlock stitching. See "serger".
Overcasting, overstiching
by hand or machine.
Stitching done over a seam to prevent raveling. This can be done
Pivot
To leave the needle in fabric, raise the presser foot and turn the fabric at a 45
degree angle. Then lower the presser foot and start sewing. Used to sew square seams.
Pleat
A fold in fabric that is either inverted or folded outward, is not sewn except on the
top edge (as in a skirt or slacks waistband), and provides decorative or functional fullness. It can
be sewn on the bottom edge too for a completely different look, almost a tuck look. Pleats can be
used in lieu of gathering under the right circumstances.
Press
Pressing is not ironing! Pressing does not use the iron to plow through wrinkles. It
is the process of gently lifting the iron as you move to a new pressing area, so that you are not
distorting the fabric grain. Using an iron in a press/pick up/move/press/... pattern. Pressing is not
moving back and forth on fabric with the iron. Pressing is done "as you go" while creating a
garment. Usually the tip of the iron is used or a small craft iron.
Running stitch
A simple stitch made by running the thread over and under the
fabric. This stitch is often used for basting or as the basis (marking) for another more decorative
stitch.
Seam
The result when two pieces of fabric are sewn together along a line.
Seam allowance
The fabric between the edge of the fabric and the line of stitching, about
5/8" for most patterns. (Craft patterns often allow 1/4" seam allowance.)
Stay stitch
A line of stitching just inside the intended permanent stitching line (seam
line) on curved edges that stabilizes and keeps the curve from distorting. The direction of the
stay stitching is shown on the pattern. If not, it generally goes from shoulder to center on
necklines. There are other indications for stay stitching, but this is one of the more common. If
you do clip curves, use stay stitching first to guide the tip of your scissors - don't cut beyond the
stay stitching.
Stitch length
In general, regular sewing is about 11-12 stitches per inch,
basting/gathering/bunching/sleeve easing is about 6 stitches per inch (plus or minus 1 or 2
stitches for some applications). There are rare occasions when stitches need to exceed 12 per
inch, but they are few. Stitch length for zigzag is the same as with regular straight stitching; it
refers to the number of stitches per inch. The scale varies from machine to machine, so be sure
and check your manual. A satin stitch can be created using a zigzag stitch length of zero.
Straight stitch
Stitching made with single stitches moving in a line. This is the
regular stitch (the lock stitch) that most sewing machines make and may or may not require a
special presser foot.
Tack
A temporary stitch to hold pieces together, usually removed after final
stitching. Bar tacks are used in buttonholes. Tailor's tacks are discussed below. Tacking is also
known as a term for starting off a seam with a few stitches back and forth for stabilizing.
Tension
Tension is one of the least understood concepts of sewing machines. It
refers to the pressure being placed on your needle and bobbin thread by your machine. There are
two types of tension on your sewing machine - the thread and bobbin tensions. It is best to read
your sewing machine manual for specifics. Rarely does one need to adjust bobbin tension. Your
sewing machine manual will show you the appropriate settings and offer you examples of what
the threads should look like on the right and wrong sides of your stitching.
Top stitch
A sometimes decorative, sometimes functional stitch that is usually 1/4"
from the edge of a seam. It is visible because it is done on the top of the item. For instance, once
a vest is turned or a facing to a jacket is turned and pressed, one may stitch 1/4" from the edge on
the top of the garment to provide a bit of stabilization. This can be done in same or contrasting
thread, depending on the decorative effect one wishes to achieve.
Trim
Trim is a general term which includes rick rack, ribbon, laces, fringe,
cording, and other decorative items used to embellish a garment. Trim is also used to define the
act of trimming excess seam allowances or fabric with scissors.
Zigzag (zig-zag, zig zag)
A stitch that goes one way (zig) and then the other (zag) and
provides a nice finish to a seam to prevent raveling, can be a decorative addition to any garment,
and can allow for give with knits. A very short to nonexistent stitch length with zigzag stitching
is the same as a satin stitch. (Picture) Stitch length for zigzag is the same as with regular straight
stitching; it refers to the number of stitches per inch. The scale varies from machine to machine,
so be sure and check your manual. A satin stitch can be created using a zigzag stitch length of
zero.
Fabrics
Drape
Hang of fabric on the body or dress form.
Nap
A fabric with nap is one what usually has a pile and will look different shades
from different angles. Velvet and velour fabric are prime examples of fabric with nap.
When cutting out fabric the with nap and the without nap directions are usually different to allow
all of the with nap pattern pieces to lie in the same direction.
Fabric with a one way design will also use the with nap cutting layout.
Also Known As: with nap, without nap
Example:If a velvet gown is not cut out with all the pattern pieces going in the same direction,
the dress will look like it was made with two different color fabrics.
Knits
The term knits is used to describe fabric that is constructed with loops of thread
rather than woven which is threads that intersect at ninety degree angles. The amount of stretch
in kit fabrics varies widely. A pattern will instruct you as to how much stretch a knit fabric
choice should have. Gain basic sewing skills by sewing with a woven fabric before a knit fabric.
A knit definitely requires that you allow the sewing machine to feed the fabric to prevent
stretching the fabric as you sew it. It may also require that you make adjustments to the amount
of pressure that the machine is applying to the presser foot.
Remnant
Remnants are discounted small pieces of fabric. They are usually available near
the cutting table in fabric stores or departments. Remnants are usually the end of the bolt of
fabric but can also be pieces of fabric with slight damage.
Bias
Runs diagonally to the straight grain of the fabric (45 degrees from the straight
grain). This is the stretchiest part on the fabric.
Bolt
An amount of fabric on a tubular roll or a rectangular cardboard form. The bolt of
fabric usually has fabric type, fabric care, manufacturer, and price on the end of the bolt for the
consumer to see before they buy. Fabric is usually folded right sides together lengthwise on a
bolt. Fabric stores cut their fabrics for sale off the bolt. The word 'bolt' can apply to the
cardboard with the fabric wrapped around it or to the empty cardboard.
Broadcloth Fabric made of cotton or a blend (almost always) that is tightly woven and may
have slight ridges, but not always.
Colorfast
Holds color even when in the wash. If something is not colorfast, wash it with like
colors or alone, always. (See bleed/ing and crock/ing.)
Count
The number of warp/weft intersections per inch in a given fabric. The higher the
number, the tighter the weave.
Grain
Direction of the fabric that runs parallel to the selvage (a stretchier grain is found
running perpendicular to the selvage). Commercial patterns have an arrow on them <----->
indicating direction of the grain to assist in laying out the pattern pieces correctly.
Nap
Nap is the "fuzzy" part of a fabric that is usually directional in nature. Corduroy
and velvet are good examples of fabric which has a nap or a pile. If smoothed with the hand in
one direction, nap is typically shiny in one direction and not shiny in the other. When cutting out
a pattern, care should be taken to keep fabric pieces going in the same direction nap-wise unless
one is intentionally mixing naps and piles to produce a different kind of look. See "pile".
Prewashing
Washing fabric before using it for a garment or project to allow for any
color bleeding and shrinkage. It is best to prewash the fabric as it is to be cleaned and dried when
it is in its finished form. (Also known as preshrinking.)
Ravel/Raveling
Making or allowing the edge of a fabric to get a fringed look by having
threads come loose either on their own via wearing and washing or by stitching a tight seam a
distance from the raw edge and pulling threads.
Raw (edge)
The edge of fabric that is not stitched or finished.
Remnant
at a discount.
Bolt ends of fabric, smaller pieces of fabric, leftover fabrics, usually sold
Right side
The right side of the fabric is the design side. There are instances of fabric
with no right or wrong side visible, and the determination and appropriate markings are then
made by the person doing the pattern cutting and sewing. Checking the selvedge edge will
usually reveal how the fabric was loomed because there will be small holes left from the tension
bars of the loom that indicate which was the right side as the fabric was being woven.
Selvedge, selvege, selvage Often marked with information from the manufacturer (color code,
identifying data, etc.), this is the edge of the fabric which generally does not fray due to
manufacturer's finish. In most cases, this edge should not be included when you cut your fabric,
as it may cause puckering of your seam later. on.
Sizing
Fabric finish that provides crispness without stiffness; a light starch finish.
Warp
Threads running the length of a woven fabric. Also known as the
lengthwise grain (little to no stretch). About 90° from the weft and 45° from the bias. (see weft
and grain)
Weaves
Types of weaves have often been mistaken for types of fabrics. For
example, satin is a type of weave, and does not denote fabric content. Satin is woven from silk,
polyester, acetate, or even blends of fibers. Each different fiber content contributes to the hand
and drape of the satin fabric also a weave that is seen in brocade, damask, and tapestry. I once
called a fabric store to find jacquard woven fabric only to be told that they didn’t carry natural
fabrics. The correct answer would have been to ask what type of jacquard I was looking for.
Weft
Threads running at 90° angles to the length of woven fabrics (or the
width). Also known as the cross grain. It has little to no stretch and is usually 45° from the bias.
(see warp and grain)
Wrong side
The wrong side of the fabric is the side upon which there is no decorative
design, such as a print. There are instances of fabric with no wrong side visible, and the
determination and appropriate markings are then made by the person doing the pattern cutting
and sewing. Sometimes, people use the wrong side as the right side to mix things up a bit or to
accent the right sided design.
Different types of weaves
By : Rahul Garg, Shivendra Parmar
1. Introduction:
Fabrics are manufactured in wide varieties and design. And the different design and effect is produced on the fabric
with the help of various mechanisms which are helpful to create different weaves and lots of designs which enhance
the look of apparels. The present paper was aimed at investigating the different types of weaves and also overview the
fabrics that come under the different weave categories.
2. Types of Weaves:
2.1 Plain Weave:
Most simple and most common type of construction Inexpensive to produce, durable, Flat, tight surface is conducive
to printing and other finishes. The simplest of all patterns is the plain weave. Each weft yarn goes alternately over and
under one warp yarn. Each warp yarn goes alternately over and under each weft yarn. Some examples of plain weave
fabrics are crepe, taffeta, organdy and muslin. The plain weave may also have variations including the following:
 Rib weave: the filling yarns are larger in diameter than the warp yarns. A rib weave produces fabrics in
which fewer yarns per square centimeter are visible on the surface.
 Matt Weave or Basket weave: here, two or more yarns are used in both the warp and filling direction.
These groups of yarns are woven as one, producing a basket effect.
Method of Construction: Each filling yarn goes alternately under and over
the warp yarns
Household Uses: Draperies, tablecloths, upholstery.
Different types of Fabric Come under this Category;
 Chiffon: A very soft and filling plain woven Silk texture consisting of the Finest Singles which are hard
twisted and woven in the gum condition. The cloth is afterward degummed.
 Georgette: A cotton Crepe fabric made in imitation of silk georgette, with hard twisted warp and weft yarn.
A good Cloth is woven plain with right and left twist thread arranged in 2 and 2 order in warp and weft.
 Shantung: Coarse Silk fabric with Slubs. Mostly Tussah Silk but can be Polyester, nylon and viscose.
 Seersucker: It is created by holding some warp yarns at tight tension, some at slack tension. Those at Slack
Tension puff up to form a sort of Blis-ter-effect, often slack and tight yarn of different colour.
2.2 Basket Weave:
A variation of the plain weave usually basket or checkerboard pattern Contrasting colors are often used Inexpensive,
less durable than plain weave. Basket weave is the amplification in height and width of plain weave. Two or more
yarns have to be lifted or lowered over or under two or more picks for each plain weave point. When the groups of
yarns are equal, the basket weave is termed regular, otherwise it is termed irregular.
There two types of weave come under this category i.e. regular and irregular weave.
a) Regular basket weave: This is commonly used for edges in drapery, or as a bottom in very small weave
repeats, because the texture is too loose-fitting for big weave repeats; moreover, yarns of different groups
can slip, group and overlap, spoiling the appearance. This is why only basket weaves 2-2, 3-3 and 4-4 exist.
b) Irregular basket weave: This is generally a combination of irregular warp and weft ribs.
Method of Construction: Two or more warps simultaneously interlaced with one or more fillings.
Household Uses: Wall hangings, pillows.
Example of Basket weave:

Monks cloth: Heavy cotton Cloth in a coarse basket weave, chiefly used for draperies.

Oxford; Oxford weave fabric consists of two, thin warp yarns woven to very soft, thicker yarn in the filling
direction. The unbalanced construction of the fabric causes the thin yarns to break and leave tiny holes. The
primary use of oxford weave fabric is in cotton shirting. It is also used in other forms of apparel.
2.3 Twill Weave: Creates a diagonal, chevron, hounds tooth, corkscrew, or other design. The design is enhanced
with colored yarn is strong and may develop a shine. Twill weave is characterized by diagonal ridges formed by the
yarns, which are exposed on the surface. These may vary in angle from a low slope to a very steep slope. Twill weaves
are more closely woven, heavier and stronger than weaves of comparable fiber and yarn size. They can be produced in
fancy designs.
Method of Construction: Three or more shafts; warp or filling floats over two or more counterpart yarns in
progressive steps right or left
Household Uses: Upholstery, comforters, pillows.
Types of Fabrics:
Denim: A Strong Warp Face Cotton Cloth used for overall, Jeans skirts etc. Largely made in 3/1 twill
weave. Generally warp yarn is dyed brown or blue and crossed with white weft.
Gabardine: A Warp Face cloth mostly woven 2/2 twill, 27/2 tex warp, 20/2 tex
cotton weft. Here cotton weft is yarn dyed but the wool warp may be dyed in piece.
2.4 Satin:



Smooth, soft luster
Excellent drapability
Floats snag easily
Method of Construction:

Floats one warp yarn over four or more weft yarns, then tied down with one thread, resulting in a smooth
face

Common Fabrics: Satin, satin-weave fabrics out of fabrics such as cotton & Charmeuse
Household Uses: Draperies, quilts
Examples of Fabric:
 Satin: Used for ribbons, trimmings, dresses, linings etc, and originally was an all silk fabric with a fine rich
glossy surface formed in a warp satin weave. The warp is much finer and more closely set than the weft, and
the latter which only shows on the under side is frequently composed of cotton. Double faced Satins are

made on the reversible warp backed principle, with one side differently colour from the other.
Sateen; A cotton fabric is made in 5 thread weft face sateen, and woven like cotton. It is sold in bleached,

mercerized or printed condition.
Charmeuse: It is a light weight fabric woven with a satin weave ,where the warp threads cross over three
or more of the backing (weft) threads. The front side of the fabric has a satin finish-lustrous and reflectivewhereas the back has a dull finish.
2.5 Jacquard:
Jacquard patterns, when carefully analyzed, may be seen to contain combinations
of plain, twill, and satin weaves, even in the same crosswise yarn. Many decorative
fabrics are made by the jacquard technique. Yarns woven into unlimited designs,
often intricate, multicolor effect. Expensive, but the design dont fade or wear out.
Durability depends on the fiber used. The Jacquard loom was invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard.
Method of Construction:
Warp is individually controlled with each pick passage creating intricate designs
Household Uses:
Upholstery, wall hangings
Types of Jacquard fabric;

Brocade:. Originally a heavy rich silk fiber ornaments with raised figures formed by extra threads or by
embroidery. Mostly used for upholstery fabrics and draperies.

Damask: Fabric with a weft sateen figures on a warp satin, twist or plain grained, made of silk, cotton,
rayon and linen yarns Damasks are reversible. Cotton and linen damasks are made either with four yarn
float or a seven yarn float in the satin weave. The Longer floats are more lustrous, but the shorter floats are
more durable.
2.6 Leno or Gauze:
In leno or gauze weave pairs of warps are twisted over each other with each passing of filling yarn. The leno weave is
the modern descendant of a technique called twining that was used thousands of years ago for making fabrics. In
leno-weave fabrics, the warp yarns are paired. A special attachment, the doup or leno attachment, crosses or laps the
paired warp yarns over each other, while the filling passes through the opening between the two warp yarns. Lenoweave fabrics are made in Open, gauzelike constructions.
Method of Construction: A pair of warp threads is twisted over each other with each passing of filling yarn in a
figure or an hourglass twist, creating a geometric pattern
Household Uses: Thermal Blankets, curtains
2.7 Pile Fabric: Extra sets of warps or fillings are woven over
ground yarns of plain or twill weave to form loops. Pile fabrics
have been defined as fabrics(s) with cut or uncut loops which
stand up densely on the surface Pile fabrics may be created by
weaving or through other construction techniques, such as
tufting, knitting, or stitch through. To create the loops that appears on the surface of woven pile fabrics, the weaving
process.

Piled fabric are classified as Uncut pile and Cut Pile Fabric
2.7.1 Uncut Pile:
 Loops are possible on both sides of fabric


Soft and absorbent, relatively inexpensive
Can snag if loops are caught
Method of Construction: (Wire Method or double cloth Method):
Generally a plain or twill weaves with a third dimension--additional warp yarn or filling yarn is introduced into the
basic structure and forms a loop at regular intervals.
Common Fabrics: Frieze, terry cloth
Household Uses: Upholstery, towels, carpet, area rugs
2.7.2 Cut Pile:





Soft and warm, resilient, absorbent
May have a nap that must be matched
May be expensive and need professional cleaning
Method of Construction:
Similar to uncut pile, but loops have been cut
Household uses: Upholstery, stage draperies.
Different types of Cut pile Fabric:
Corduroy: Corded velveteen Structures in which a weft pile forms longitudinal lines or chords, strong heavy clothes
being used for trouser-rings, smoking jackets and lighter fabrics for dress materials.
Velvet: A cut warp pile fabric with a short, soft, dense pile.
Velveteen: A Short heavily wefted cotton fabric uniformly covered with a short dense pile of fibers which formed
after the cloth has been woven by cutting certain picks of weft that float somewhat loosely on the surface.
NATURAL FIBERS
Natural Fibers are a class of hair-like materials that are continuous filaments or are in discrete
elongated pieces, similar to pieces of thread. They can be spun into filaments, thread, or rope.
They can be used as a component of composite materials. They can also be matted into sheets to
make products such as paper or felt. Fibers are of three types: natural fiber, cellulose fiber, and
synthetic fiber. The earliest evidence for humans using fibers is the discovery of wool and dyed
flax fibers.
Cotton is a plant fiber. When ignited it burns with a steady flame and smells like burning leaves.
The ash left is easily crumbled. Small samples of burning cotton can be blown out as you would
a candle.
Linen is also a plant fiber but different from cotton in that the individual plant fibers which make
up the yarn are long where cotton fibers are short. Linen takes longer to ignite. The fabric closest
to the ash is very brittle. Linen is easily extinguished by blowing on it as you would a candle.
Silk is a protein fiber and usually burns readily, not necessarily with a steady flame, and smells
like burning hair. The ash is easily crumbled. Silk samples are not as easily extinguished as
cotton or linen.
Wool is also a protein fiber but is harder to ignite than silk as the individual “hair” fibers are
shorter than silk and the weave of the fabrics is generally looser than with silk. The flame is
steady but more difficult to keep burning. The smell of burning wool is like burning hair.
MAN MADE FIBERS
Man Made Fibers, often referred to as synthetic fibers, are the result of extensive research by
scientists to improve upon naturally occurring animal and plant fibers. In general, synthetic
fibers are created by forcing, usually through extrusion, fiber forming materials through holes
(called spinnerets) into the air, forming a thread. Before synthetic fibers were developed,
artificially manufactured fibers were made from cellulose, which comes from plants. These
fibers are called cellulose fibers.
Synthetic Fibers account for about half of all fiber usage, with applications in every field of
fiber and textile technology. Although many classes of fiber based on synthetic polymers have
been evaluated as potentially valuable commercial products, four of them – nylon, polyester,
acrylic and polyolefin – dominate the market. These four account for approximately 98% by
volume of synthetic fiber production, with polyester alone accounting for around 60%.
Acetate is made from cellulose (wood fibers), technically cellulose acetate. Acetate burns readily
with a flickering flame that cannot be easily extinguished. The burning cellulose drips and leaves
a hard ash. The smell is similar to burning wood chips.
Acrylic technically acrylonitrile is made from natural gas and petroleum. Acrylics burn readily
due to the fiber content and the lofty, air filled pockets. A match or cigarette dropped on an
acrylic blanket can ignite the fabric which will burn rapidly unless extinguished. The ash is hard.
The smell is acrid or harsh.
Nylon is a polyamide made from petroleum. Nylon melts and then burns rapidly if the flame
remains on the melted fiber. If you can keep the flame on the melting nylon, it smells like
burning plastic.
Polyester is a polymer produced from coal, air, water, and petroleum products. Polyester melts
and burns at the same time, the melting, burning ash can bond quickly to any surface it drips on
including skin. The smoke from polyester is black with a sweetish smell. The extinguished ash is
hard.
Rayon is a regenerated cellulose fiber which is almost pure cellulose. Rayon burns rapidly and
leaves only a slight ash. The burning smell is close to burning leaves.
Blends consist of two or more fibers and, ideally, are supposed to take on the characteristics of
each fiber in the blend. The burning test can be used but the fabric content will be an assumption.
Glossary of Cotton Fabrics and Weaves
Diaper Cloth is a twill, dobby or plain woven absorbent cotton.
Dimity is sheer, thin, white or printed fabric with lengthwise cords, stripes or checks.
Drill is a strong twilled cotton fabric, used in men’s and women’s slacks.
Duck is a heavy, durable tightly woven fabric. Heavy weight drill is used in awnings, tents, etc.
Lighter duck is used in summer clothing.
Flannel cotton is plain or twill weave with a slight nap on one or both sides.
Flannelette is a soft cotton fabric with a nap on one side.
Gauze is a sheer, lightly woven fabric similar to cheesecloth. Is also made in silk.
Gingham is a lightweight, washable, stout fabric that is woven in checks, plaids or stripes.
Lawn is a plain weave, soft, very light, combed cotton fabric with a crisp finish.
Muslin is a sheer to coarse plain woven cotton fabric. Muslin comes in “natural” color or is
dyed.
Organdy is a very thin, transparent cotton with a crisp finish.
Outing flannel is a soft, twill or plain weave fabric napped on both sides. Used for baby clothes,
diapers, and sleepwear.
Oxford is shirting fabric with a lustrous, soft finish. It is characterized with narrow stripes and
can be woven in plain or basket weave. Also a term used for wool fabric that has black and white
fibers.
Percale is a light weight, closely woven, sturdy fabric that can be found printed or in dark or
light colors.
Pima Cotton, from Egyptian cotton, is an excellent quality cotton fabric.
Polished Cotton is either a satin weave cotton or a plain weave cotton that is finished chemically
to appear shiny.
Poplin is a plain weave fabric with a cross-wise rib.
Sailcloth is a very strong, heavy canvas or duck made in plain weave.
Sateen is a satin weave cotton fabric.
Seersucker is a lightweight cotton fabric crinkled into lengthwise stripes.
Swiss is a sheer, very fine cotton that can be plain or decorated with dots or other designs.
Terry Cloth is a looped pile fabric that is either woven or knitted. Very absorbent and used for
towels, etc. French terry cloth is looped on one side and sheared pile on the other.
Velveteen is an all cotton pile fabric with short pile resembling velvet.
Whipcord is a strong fabric with diagonal round cords that can also be produced in wool.
Glossary of Linen Fabrics and Weaves
Butcher’s Linen was originally a heavy, sturdy linen fabric used for French butchers’ aprons.
This type of heavy fabric was also used for interfacing.
Damask, a jacquard weave, is a reversible rich weave, patterned in satin or plain weave.
Venise is a very fine damask table linen consisting of large floral patterns.
Glossary of Silk Fabrics and Weaves
Brocade is a jacquard weave with an embossed effect and contrasting surfaces. Can also be
woven with synthetic or man-made fibers.
Canton Crepe is a soft crepe woven fabric with small crosswise ribs. Similar to crepe de chine
but heavier.
Charmeuse is a satin weave silk with a crepe back sometimes called crepe backed satin.
Chiffon is transparent soft and light silk. Can also be woven of cotton or man-made fibers.
China silk is a plain weave silk of various weights. This silk is the “hand” or touch that many
people identify as silk. There are various weights of China silk from light, used for linings and
many “washable silks” with the wrinkled look, to heavy for shirts and dresses.
Doupioni is reeled from double cocoons nested together. The threads are uneven and irregular.
Italian Doupioni is the finest, followed by Chinese Doupioni and Indian Doupioni. Doupioni is
also seen in man-made fibers such as polyester, acetate and referred to as Doupionini. Silk
Doupioni is most often found in men’s and women’s fine suits and also dresses in lighter weight
silk Doupioni.
Faille is a soft ribbed silk with wider ribs than seen in grosgrain ribbon. Slightly glossy.
Georgette is a sheer crepe silk, heavier than chiffon and with a crinkle surface.
Matelasse has raised woven designs, usually jacquard, with the appearance of puckered or
quilted.
Noil is sportier in appearance and created by short fibers, often from the innermost part of the
cocoon. Has the look of hopsack but much softer.
Organza is similar to cotton organdy except it is made with silk and is transparent.
Peau de Soie is a stout, soft silk with fine cross ribs. Looks slightly corded. Also called
paduasoy.
Pongee is a plain woven, thin, naturally tan fabric that has a rough weave effect.
Poult de soie is sometimes called faille taffeta. It has heavy cross ribs.
Silk Shantung is a dupionni type of silk that comes from the Shantung Prov. of China.
Silk Broadcloth is a plain weave silk in various weights; crisper than china silk. Often used in
shirting.
Silk linen has a nubby yarn in a plain weave. Weights range from light to heavy. It is different
from Dupion in that the nubby runs both lengthwise and crosswise. The look of linen with the
characteristics of linen.
Silk satin is a satin weave with a plain back.
Tussah silk (tussah means wild) is a plain weave silk fabric from “wild” silk worms. It has
irregular thick and thin yarns creating uneven surface and color. Wild silkworms feed on leaves
other than mulberry leaves.Tussah silk is similar to shantung, with silk from the wild. Color is
often uneven; usually referred to as “raw” silk.
Silk is also available in other weaves such as velvet and corduroy.
Glossary of Wool Fabrics and Weaves
Beaver cloth is a heavy woolen overcoating, napped and pressed down to resemble beaver fur.
This fabric is also a plush fabric that is used for hats.
Botany/Merino wool is a fine wool made from worsted wool yarn.
Broadcloth is an all woolen or worsted fabric with a velvety feel.
Challis, a light weight soft wool in plain weave, has a printed or woven design or flowers.
Cheviot, usually Scotch wool is a soft, fine wool that is heavier than serge.
Chinchilla cloth is a heavy, spongy woolen overcoat fabric with a long nap that has been rubbed
into a curly, nubby finish.
Donegal was originally a thick and warm homespun or tweed woven by Irish peasants in
Donegal, Ireland. Donegal now describes the wool tweed that has colorful thick slubs woven into
the fabric.
Felt fabric is a compact sheet of entangled, not woven wool, fur, sometimes cotton fibers. The
felt is produced by processing a mat of fibers with moisture, heat, and pressure.
Flannel wool is a soft, lightweight fabric with a nap on one or both sides.
Gabardine is a tightly woven wool twill with a high sheen. This fabric is excellent for tailoring
and wears well.
Glen checks are usually seen in menswear and originated in Scotland. It is characterized by a
variety of small, even check designs.
Harris tweed is a hand woven fabric from Scotland with a soft feel.
Heather Mixture describes tweeds and homespun’s that have colors of heather and sand of the
Scottish heather fields.
Herringbone wool is woven in a twill that is reversed at regular spacing, creating a sawtooth
line.
Homespun is a loose, strong, durable woolen woven either by hand or machine with a coarse
feel.
Houndstooth check has a four pointed star check in a broken twill weave.
Jersey is a knit fabric that is usually knit in fine wool but can also be found in silk, and manmade fibers.
Laine is French for “wool”.
Lambsdown is a heavy knit fabric that has a spongy fleeced nap on one side.
Linsey-woolsey is a coarse fabric first made in Lindsey, England, of wool combined with flax or
cotton.
Loden fabric is a thick, soft, waterproof, windproof, wool used in outerwear that has a
characteristic green color.
Mackinaw fabric is a heavy double fabric in striking colored patterns.
Melton, a heavy, tick, short napped fabric without a finish press or gloss.
Merino wool is soft and luxurious, resembling cashmere. This term is also used to describe the
finest wool’s.
Oatmeal Cloth is a durable, soft wool with a pebbled face.
Panama Cloth, a plain woven worsted wool, sometimes resembling the texture of Panama hat.
Petersham, a very thick, waterproof woolen coating, usually dark blue, is used for men’s
trousers or heavy coats.
Pilot Cloth is a coarse, heavy, stout twilled woolen that is heavily napped and navy blue. Used
by seamen.
Poodle Cloth is made with a boucle yarn and resembles the Poodle dog.
Rabbit Hair is used in woven wool’s as a substitute for vicuna to give a soft effect in the fabric.
Sharkskin is woven with warp and filling yarns of alternating white with black, brown or blue.
Tartan is a twilled plaid design, originally Scottish.
Tweed is a rough textured wool, originally homespun and slightly felted. This fabric is sturdy
with a mottled color.
Virgin Wool is wool that has never been processed into fabric.
Manufactured or Man-made Fabrics
Manufactured Fabrics are usually made of filaments extruded as liquid and formed into various
fibers. Because the fiber starts as a liquid, many of the fibers are colored before they become
filament, thus they are difficult to dye after the fiber is woven into a fabric.
ACETATE is not a strong fiber but can be extruded into fibers of different diameter and woven
into fabrics that have the luxurious look of silk but do not wear like silk. Acetate does not absorb
moisture readily but dries fast and resists shrinking. This is a resilient fabric that resists wrinkling
in addition to being pliable and soft with a good drape. Triacetate is an improved acetate fabric
which doesn’t melt as easy and is easier to care for. Remember, acetate in nail polish and nail
polish remover will melt acetate as will alcohol so take care with perfumes and nail products
including SuperGlue.
ACRYLIC is a fine soft and luxurious fabric with the bulk and hand of wool. Light weight and
springy, this fabric is non-allergenic, dries quickly, draws moisture away from the body and is
washable. Acrylic does not take even a moderate amount of heat. Modacrylics are used in pile
fabrics like fake fur and are more flame resistant.
LASTEX is an elastic fiber made from Latex. It is most often used with other fibers to create
fabrics such as Spandex and foundation garments. Lastex will deteriorate after repeated washing
and drying, losing its elasticity.
NYLON became a household word in 1940 when it was knitted into hosiery. In 1942 it was
called into service for the armed forces use in parachutes, flak vests, combat uniforms, tires and
many other vital military uses. Until the war was over nylon was not available to the public.
Nylon became one of the most versatile fibers of the man-made fabrics. In addition to hosiery,
nylon is used in tricot, netting for bridal veils, and in carpeting.
Nylon is stronger yet weighs less than any other commonly used fiber. It is elastic and resilient
and responsive to heat setting. Nylon fibers are smooth, non-absorbent and dry quickly. Dirt
doesn’t cling to this smooth fiber nor is it weakened by chemicals and perspiration. Extensive
washing and drying in an automatic dryer can eventually cause piling. Nylon whites should be
washed separately to avoid graying. This fabric may yellow so it should be bleached frequently
with sodium perborate bleach.
Nylon melts at high temperatures. If ironing is necessary, always use a low temperature on the
wrong side.
POLYESTER is a strong fiber that is resistant to crease and thus keeps it shape. Polyester melts
at medium to high temperatures. Although many people dislike polyester, perhaps due to the
double knit fad of the 1950′s, polyester remains a versatile and important man-made fabric.
Blends of polyester give cotton a permanent press property and extend the wear of these blended
garments.
Polyester is manufactured in many weights including fiber-fill used in pillows and upholstery.
Threads spun from polyester fibers are strong, wear exceptionally well, and are used extensively
in home sewing and manufactured sewing.
RAYON, from cellulose, has many of the qualities of cotton, a natural cellulose fiber. Rayon is
strong, extremely absorbent, comes in a variety of qualities and weights, and can be made to
resemble natural fabrics. Rayon does not melt but burns at high temperatures.
Rayon drapes well, has a soft, silky hand, and has a smooth, napped, or bulky surface. Rayon
will wrinkle easily and may stretch when wet and shrink when washed.
Technological advancemnts to the rayon process have produced high wet modulus [HWM]
rayons such as lyocell and modal which makes fabric less prone to stretch when damp or wet.
Washable rayon will state the care on the fabric label. Like silk, if you pre-wash rayon fabric
prior to construction of the garment, you have a washable garment.
Fibranne is French term for Viscose rayon.
Velvet, although made from silk, is most often produced from the rayon fiber.
SPANDEX is an elastic type fiber that can be stretched many times its length and then spring
back to the original length. Spandex is more resistant to washing, perspiration, and heat than
latex. Spandex is used in foundation garments and hosiery.
Tools & Supplies
Cording
A twisted or woven "rope" or "string" that is used primarily in piping and to act as
a drawstring in a jacket hood, waistband, or as stabilizer for frog closures. Cording is covered
with bias strips of fabric when used for most decorative applications (such as edging a pillow).
When the cording is covered with bias or other fabric, it is called piping. Other decorative effects
can be achieved by zigzagging over cording on a fabric for a raised design.
D Ring
Used in purse making, belts, corsets, and other applications to provide a ring to
accept fabric or other material for a handle or a tie closure. Shaped like a D. Usually plastic or
metal.
Fuse, Fusible
Fuse refers to using a fusible material, which melts to "glue" two layers
together. This melting action is done with an iron. In order for the fusing to work, the fabrics
must be pre-washed or preshrunk to remove manufacturer’s finishes. These finishes will prevent
a good fuse from occurring. Fusible web is available in a variety of weights and sizes. It can be
purchased in most notions sections, pre-packaged, by the yard and in tape form.
Also Known As: fusible web, Heat N Bond, Stitch Witchery
Grommet
An eyelet usually covered with vinyl or some other material. Used in lacing (i.e.,
shoes, corsets) and for decorative purposes.
Pressing cloth
Fabric/cloth placed on the fabric yet under the iron when pressing to
prevent heat stains, iron impressions, or other marks.
Rotary cutter
Early versions of the rotary cutter looked like pizza cutters. Today, the
handles are often ergonomically designed and padded. The blade, though, remains a rounded
razor, sometimes with pinked edging or other designs. These are great for cutting layers of fabric
into straight strips. Many people are using them for curved lines and pattern cutting for garments
as well.
Scissors
 Paper – Paper dulls the cutting edge of scissors so only use scissors designated for paper
to cut paper
 Thread clippers – Small scissors used to clip threads and small seams
 Shears – Large scissors used to cut cloth (never use them on paper!)
 Pinking shears – scissors that cut in a zig zap pattern to reduce fraying
Seam ripper
Your best friend in the sewing room. It is a tool with a small hook on one
end that can slip under a stitch and get close enough to it to cut the stitch. I personally have
learned as much about sewing with my seam ripper as I have with making stitches by hand or
machine.
Thread
A complementary or like thread is chosen for garment or project
construction on a machine. The bobbin should be wound of the same type of thread or the exact
same thread whenever possible, to prevent knotting, bunching, etc. The first step for most sewing
machine trouble shooting is to change the thread and needle. When hand sewing with one thread,
cut the end of the thread that is nearest to the spool before tying a knot in the same end. This will
prevent raveling and knotting.
Tape or Tape Measure
box of motions.
A long, flexible measuring tape. One of the most used tools in your
Tracing paper
A type of paper made especially to be used with a tracing wheel. It
has an ink-type substance on one side for marking fabric with the wheel.
Tracing wheel
A tracing wheel is used with tracing paper. The paper is placed
upon the fabric with the "ink" side down, the pattern markings that need to be transferred placed
upon the paper, and then the markings are traced with the wheel. The wheel itself looks a bit like
a pizza cutter with spikes. Care needs to be taken not to press too hard and cut the pattern,
tracing paper, or the fabric. Tracing ink from the tracing paper does not always wash out and this
needs to be taken into consideration as well.
Walking foot
A special foot attachment for a sewing machine that allows for sewing
through several layers of fabric (i.e., with quilting) without shifting the lower fabric and the
upper fabric. Good also for sewing slippery (silk, rayon, etc.) fabrics. Also known as a dual feed
foot because it serves as a set of feed dogs above and works in concert with the feed dogs below
the fabric.
Notion
A term used for any item used for sewing other than the fabric and the machine.
Pinking shears
Shears with a V shape along the cutting edge used to cut fabric and have it
remain essentially ravel-free.
Pins
Pins are used for temporary basting of fabric. They are used to hold patterns in
place while cutting and to hold fabrics together while stitching (it is not recommended to
machine sew over pins as they have been known to break your sewing machine needle, jam the
machine, or cause other problems). Often, large safety pins are used to baste quilt layers before
the final quilting. Care should be taken to use a pin that will not leave a large hole and to not
leave pins in fabric too long; they could cause stains where they touch the fabric.
Flag Fabric for Custom Flags.
A question that is always asked is "How long will a custom flag last?"
We can not give an exact answer to how long the flag will last, The government generally expects a
polyester or cotton bunting flag to last approximately 180 days based on daily usage from sunrise to sunset
- but not during periods of inclement weather. Tests have shown that in some cases a flag flown 24 hours a
day will last only one-forth as long as one flown during daylight hours only.
Regardless of how well it is constructed, a flag is, after all, only a piece of cloth and will sooner or later
succumb to the elements. However, it has been well documented that reasonably good care can contribute
greatly to longer life.
There are many flag materials that can be used to make custom flags with, here at The Flag Makers we use
3 main materials and they are:
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
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100D Polyester for the budget in mind and promo uses.
200D Knitted Polyester for durability - longer life for screen printing and digital printing.
Woven/500D Spun Polyester for extra durability - longer life
(it's the most durable flag material you can get) and can only be screen print on.
100D Polyester
100D polyester - An inexpensive flag material, made of thin polyester to be used for special events and
promo giveaways for large flags and hand flags. The material can be used for outside but the life expectancy
is limited.
Recommended printing techniques are silk screening and dye sublimation, the flag material is printed on one
side and it bleeds through to the other side at about 98%, the image is then seen on the other side in
reverse.
200D Knitted Polyester
Single ply a Hefty flag made out of shetty knitted polyester - this material will last longer than woven
polyester, This material is one of strongest and most durable material in flag making one of the best choices
if you are going to fly your flag 24/7 and this material needs very little wind to move it.
Recommended printing techniques are silk screening and dye sublimation and digital print, the print is done
on one side and it bleeds through to the other side at about 95%, the image is then seen on the other side
in reverse.
Woven/500D Spun Polyester
Spun polyester is the most durable flag material you can get. The open weave reduces fabric stress and
resists high winds. This flag material is the best choice if you fly the flag 24/7 and your wind speed is higher.
As spun polyester flags are made from heavier fabric they require a higher wind speed to "fly" than knitted
polyester flags. Also they require more effort to put up and take down.
Recommended printing techniques are silk screening and dye sublimation. the print is done on one side and
it bleeds through to the other side at about 95%, the image is then seen on the other side in reverse.
If a design needs to be digital print then Spun polyester is not available.
Final Summary:
The location of where the flag is to be flown will determine the materials best suited. Take into consideration
the types of conditions your flag with endure example, weather and sunlight are big factors into the life of
the flag. If you want your flag to last, there is no point in having your flag made with lower grades of
polyester if your flag will be flown in extreme weather conditions.
http://www.the-flag-makers.com/flag-material-specifications/flag-fabric-material.htm
The 2 main flag materials used by Custom flag makers are:
100% woven polyester
Single ply, made out of one fabric layer 100% woven polyester - An inexpensive flag
material, made of thin polyester to be used for special events. Recommended printing
techniques are silk screening and dye sublimation, the print is done on one side and it
bleeds through to the other side at about 95%, the reverse image is seen on the other side.
Example of 100% woven polyester
Super knit polyester
Single ply a Hefty flag made out of shetty knitted polyester this material will last longer,
used by sport teams, junior leagues and high schools. Recommended printing techniques
are silk screening and dye sublimation. the print is done on one side and it bleeds through
to the other side at about 95%, the reverse image is seen on the other side.
Example of super knit polyester, shiny and bright.
http://www.custom-flag-makers.com/flag-materials.htm