Chapter 13
FABRIC FINISHES
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FINISHING PROCESSES
Finish = special treatments applied to
improve a fabric’s appearance, texture or
performance
Finishes added to reduce undesirable
characteristics
Some add a design like a stripe or print
Some add soft, firm or smoother han
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COLOR & DESIGN FINISHES
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Gray goods = fabric first off the loom
lacks color
Cleaned to remove oils, resins, gums or
soil
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DYEING TEXTILES
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Dyes are compounds that penetrate and
color fibers
Obtained from plants, insects, shellfish
and minerals
Synthetic developed by accident in 1856
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Today computers develop exact
formulas for dyeing
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5 METHODS:

Stock dyeing= natural fibers dyed before
they are spun into yarns
 Permits
yarns

spinning of tweed and multicolored
Solution dyeing=manufactured fibers are
produced and dye is put in liquid
solution and run through spinnerets
(permanent part)
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Yarn dyeing = yarns are dyed before
weaving or knitting
 Used
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for plaids, checks and stripes
Piece dying =dyed after weaving or
knitting
Garment dyeing =fabric cut and sewn
into finished product and then entire
garment is dyed
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COLORFASTNESS

Colorfast = fabric color won’t change

Most dyes aren’t colorfast to everything
Always read the label
 Some are supposed to loose color like
denim jeans and madras (woven fabric
that bleeds)
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PRINTING TEXTILES
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Printing = color is transferred to the
surface of a fabric to form a pattern
Some printing techniques are very old
and still used by some craftsmen
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4 COMMON PRINTING METHODS
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1 = screen printing
Metal mesh screens
stretched on frames
Each screen
prepared with color
and design
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2 = roller printing
Roller chemically
etched with pattern
part for a particular
color
Raised sections of
roller pick up desired
color
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3 = rotary screen
printing
Faster
Produces 3500 yards
per hour
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Metal foil, less costly

4 = heat-transfer
printing
Paper pattern for
design with heat
sensitive dyes
Design on reverse
side
Transferred to fabric
when heat applied
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TEXTURE & PERFORMANCE FINISHES
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Texture finishes
Type of finish that improves surface
texture and hand
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Calendering
 Fabric passes between 2 heated rollers
that smooth fabric and improve luster

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GLAZING
RESIN APPLIED DURING CALENDERING
TO PRODUCE HIGH POLISH OR GLAZE
CHINTZ IS A GLAZED FABRIC
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Embossing
 Fabric is given a raised design on surface

Cire ` (suh-RAY)
 Super-glossy finish is obtained by
applying wax
 Sometimes used in lightweight jackets
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Moire` (mwah-RAY)
 Watered or wavy pattern is obtained by
calendering 2 layers of fabric slightly off
grain
 Used for evening wear
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Napping
 Rotating wire brushes raise short fiber
ends of staple yarns to create a soft and
fuzzy surface called NAP

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Flannel is napped
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Stone washing and acid washing
Pumice stones sometimes dampened
with an oxidizing bleach to laundry
process
Provide abrasion that makes denim look
worn and partially faded
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Mercerization
Gives cotton added luster, strength,
drapability
 Improves fiber’s affinity for dye
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Sizing
Starches or resins are added to fabric for
extra body
Usually only a temporary finish
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PERFORMANCE FINISHES
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Antibacterial/antiseptic

Finish checks the growth of bacteria, fungi
(mold and mildew)

Germs that cause odor, disease and infectin
are reduced or even eliminated

Brand names are Sanitized and Pacificate
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Antistatic
Finish reduces fabric dryness that causes
static electricity
Fabrics don’t cling
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Crease-resistant
CRF – resin finish that helps fabrics
resist wrinkling
Applied to fabrics made from fibers that
wrinkling easily including cotton, rayon
and flax
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Durable press
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Maintain a pressed appearance despite
repeated washings and wearings
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Through heat setting resin curing or an
ammonia process fabric fibers are
stabilized
100% cotton is treated this way

“Wrinlke free, wrinkle resistant, no iron”
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Flame-resistant and flame retardant
Finishes reduce flaming and burinng in
fabrics exposed to flame or high heat
Used in children’s sleepwear
 Special care may be needed to maintain
finish
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Mothproof
Repel moths and other fiber eating
insects
Wool fibers
 Added when dye is added
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Shrinkage control
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Don’t guarantee no shrinkage
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But will be minimal even after laundering
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“Sanforized” assures that it won’t shrink
more than 1%
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Soil release
Dirt and stains remove more easily
 Durable through 40 – 50 washings
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Water and stain repellent
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Help fabric repel water and oil based stains

Coated with chemical that resists water and
other liquids
Drops remain on surface- can get wet
though
 May have to be redone if dry cleaned
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Waterproof
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Finishes keep fabric and wearer dry

Coated or treated so no water penetrates
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May be uncomfortable to wear but newer
ones are more breathable (GorTex)
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SUMMARY
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Finishes are applied to improve a fabric’s
appearance, texture, and performance
Some finishes are permanent and some
are temporary
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Some finishes add color or designs to
fabirs or fabrics
Texture finishes change a fabric’s look,
feel and hand
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Performance finishes make fabrics easier
to care for and more useful
Some finishes can be diminished or
destroyed by improper fabric care
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