Pig Raising Basics

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Getting Started
“The ribbons are going to fade and the trophies
will tarnish. We need to remember that it’s
family time and teaching the life skills of
responsibility, communication and good
sportsmanship- that’s the real reason we do
it.” Grant Grebner
Stolen from September issue of Seedstock Edge magazine
Think about from day one who all you will be inviting to
watch you show. We all have a support team. Family,
Friends, Teachers maybe even Pastors and
Community Leaders. You invite them to come out and
support all of your hard work and dedication you and
your family will commit to this project. Think about
this from day one so you understand that your
commitment from day 1 to the day of the show
maintains a focus that is required and effort worthy of
those you invited praise. Nothing worse than looking
people in the eye and thanking them for coming out
knowing you did not give your very best. It is easy to
give your best the first and last 20 days of a feeding
period. The middle is where you have to stay focused
and push yourself.
Good Luck, Hunter Morgan
Selection=
1.Start at ground up 2.Balance 3. Evaluate total package.
Identify areas and concern and ask yourself: Can I fix that with feed or with
a show stick? Biggest mistake is buying early muscle and not buying
structure.
Figure 10. From left to right:
a pig with the correct angle to the
shoulder, knee and pastern; a straightshouldered pig that is over at the knee and
straight-pasterned; and a pig with
excessive slope in the shoulder that is set
to far back at the knee and is weakpasterned
.(National Hog Farmer Magazine, 2009a)
Figure 3. From left to right: a heavily
muscled pig, a well-muscled pig, and a
very light-muscled pig.
(University of Florida)
Figure 13. From left to right:
a gilt that is too straight in the
knee and hock with a rigid spine;
Figure 11. From left to right: a pig
a short-hipped, straight-hocked gilt
with the correct set to the hip, hock and
that appears too heavily muscled;
pastern; a pig that is very straight from
a gilt broken in her top line affecting
the hock to the pastern; and a pig that has how she matches the ideal; and a straight
excess set to the hock and is weak-shouldered gilt that is over at the knee.
pasterned.
(National Swine Registry)
(National Hog Farmer Magazine, 2009a
Daily Care
Skin Care
Pigs loved to be brushed everyday. I prefer products like
champions choice to be sprayed on them to help keep their hair
and skin in the best of shape. Time spent brushing the animal
will help with the bond and the trust the pig will have with the
owner. This will pay big dividends when you take the pig out of
the pen and training the pig to drive. I recommend brushing the
head and face everyday as well as that will help the pig when
you need to clip their face closer to show. Spraying champions
choice on the pigs hoofs and pads of their feet will also help
keep moisture in their feet and keep them from cracking as
often. If you are showing a white OPB you might choose a
product that is not oiled based to prevent darkining any
possiable skin pigment that arrises.
Sanitation
Pig pens need to be cleaned out everyday. Best if manure is pulled
from the shaving(or other bedding) twice a day. Clean dry shaving
will help minimize skin and health issues. Mange is a real issue in
most barn and dirty pens will increase the likely hood that you will
be dealing with this skin condition. Once a week the pen should be
totally sanitized. All shaving removed and you should use bleach
on the floor. I would wipe down the water and feed bowls as well
as the bars in the pen with the bleach. Sand pens this process is
not applicable.
Worming
Pigs in our part of the world get a whole lot of exposure to
parasites internally and externally. I recommend during the
feeding period you worm every 21 days to make sure the pig
is free from parasites. Parasites internally and externally rob
your pig from reaching their genetic potential. I would set your
calandar from day one, and make sure you stick to it. We
always inject ivermectin upon receiving pigs, and follow up 15
days later with safeguard for three days. Then we move to a
21 day wormer rotation cycle from start to finish for the feeding
period. Many will say it is overkill but parasites will potentially
have a drematic effect on your projects outcome in the event
they become and issue. This way issue resolved, and you
can focue on meeting their other needs.
Common products used to worm pigs are: Atgaurd
wormer, Safegaurd Paste, and Ivermectin Paste. Both
paste products should be given over three days to
increase their effectiveness. Atgaurd directions are on
package and are effective with one day treatment.
Feeding
Consistancy=
Every day the pigs need to be fed at the same time. They are
creatures of habit and this helps them eat more effectively. Pigs
should never be fed in the summer after 9AM in the morning. By
9Am it is starting to get to hot. They do best when fed in the
early morning hours preferable prior to 7Am. They should be fed
approximately 12 hours apart. Every feeding pigs should be
monitored to make sure they eat aggressively and to note any
changes to eating habits. This means you stay and watch them
eat. Good time to clean pen and brush pig.
Feed Adjustment=
What works great at 25 pounds will not work at 250 pounds.
Adjustment can usualy be planned but sometimes they can not
be. When soundness issues come into question you have to
make adjustments and they should be immediate. Do not wait to
finish old feed make the adjustments immediately.
Generality of Pig Feeding=
As Pig Gets Bigger
Feed quantity as well as Feeder and Water Height all= Go
Protein= Go
Down
Up
Showmanship
Exhibitor Look= The showman should look like this show is important to them.
They need to be dressed for success. Cloths pressed, hair combed, and nothing
distracting. Girls be cautious of jewelry on wrist and hair that is not pulled up. Cloths
should be barn appropriate. Revealing clothing is a giant no in showpigs so do not
do it!
Judge
Pig
Exhibitor
You would not make a Ham sandwich any other way so do not show your pig any
other way. Never get between the judge and the pig. Blocking his view cost him
time and increases his effort.
Hitting the Arena= When you first come out it is real big to set the tone for the show.
Give the judge all three views. Front , profile and from behind. Do your homework
and know which angle is your best and which one is your worst. Make sure you plan
your timing to reflect that. Give the judge only a glimpse of your worst angle and
then help the judge focus on what are the best aspects of your pig.
Placing= Watching the first class is always big. Knowing how the show will operate
and how placing will happen is a big part of your show strategy. Judges place from
bottom to top the most often. Not Always! When placing from bottom to top exhibitor
might choose to do big circles around the arena. Close to the final placing of the
class they may transition to the center and figure eight. Mange you pigs legs and do
not over drive when judge is not looking.
Soundness
Often we talk about pigs should be square to the
ground, out on all four corners, correct to the
ground. Genetics plays a giant role in soundness
and most structural issue raise their head at
selection, but not always. When these lines start
to get out of their comfort zone problems start to
occur. Placement of feet and legs are critical in
finishing well. So what do you do to manage one
that is already on feed when you notice that they
are getting out of the comfortable foot placement.
Inside or outside their skeleton.
I feel this is when you have to really analyze what is causing the poor
placement. Sometimes excessive muscling can cause and animal to get out of
their comfort zone. This effect can be minimized by reducing muscle. Lower
protein and lysine levels can help reduce muscle. Often times as we paylean
in the end of the feeding period and increase lean tissue development we see
this occur. This is when you need to make adjustments immediately as you
are getting close to going too far. Often you see pigs get inside their skeleton
and it can be from lack of muscling and can be from hoof size. Often you will
see pigs coming inside their skeleton by walking on their outside toe instead
of planting them evenly. Hoof trimming can be effective but needs to be done
by a trained veterinarian professional. Acrylic hoofs are the reason for the
black mats at the major shows so tread on this ground carefully as it can be
against show rules. You should check with show officials prior to considering
such practices. But feed can also play a role in pigs inside their skeleton as
well. Gaining weight rapidly puts excess stress on the hocks that are most
effected by placing the foot inside their comfort zone. Reducing gain can help
salvage the project prior to hock being blown out. That is when you evaluate
the minimum weight limits and days till show and then set a diet that has
enough lysine to maintain shape yet gain only the amount needed to make
weight. We have salvaged a many project by targeting light weights due to
their foot placement being off. Average and above average daily gains on
poorly constructed skeletons usually ends in disaster. If the game changes on
you, the ones who salvage the projects are the ones who make the right
adjustments.
Plan your Weights
• Always record your weight in the
same place. Tracking daily gain is critical to peak at
the right time, to adhere to show required weights, and to save
your skeleton. This chart sometimes will create clues to other
symptoms like poor feed efficiency indicating other concerns
such as parasites.
•
Weight Management. Weight management
will prevent harsh holds that will compromise pigs freshness
and over all appearance from muscle to external fat thickness,
certainly the rib shape. Harsh holds are rarely effective in pig
fitting.
• Start with pig correct age.
Pigs genetically
have the ability to grow at various weights. The old days of
feeding 7 and 8 month old pigs requires extreme fitting to peak
at show and is not and ideal scenario. Few feeders can do
this consistently. Ideally pigs are 6 months of age at show.
This will allow you to grow at comfortable weight gain with out
a lot of true feed fitting to peak at show.
Rough Weight Gauges
• 30 days to show less than 200
• 60 days till show less than 140
• 90 days till show less than 100
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