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COMITAN DE DOMINGUEZ
To walk the streets of Comitan is to return to an old era full of colors and to feeling the fragrances of its
flourished gardens, because this is a city full of testimonies of many centuries of history. An obligatory point
of visit is the famous district of the seven corners, a neighborhood with its own personality and where many
samples of the traditional Comitecan culture are conserved.
This is a beautiful city built on a rocky hillside and surrounded by a lush country side located 163 km (100
miles) from Tuxtla Gutierrez. It was founded in 1556 by Pedro Portocarrero. Its unique colonial architectural
style catches the visitor’s attention. A proof of it is the Church of Santo Domingo, the Church of San
Caralampio, the Church of San Jose, the Church of San Sebastian, the Doctor Belisario Dominguez
Museum and the Cultural Centre “Rosario Castellanos”. Comitan was first a Mayan city called “Balun Canan”
which means “nine stars or guardians”. It was renamed “Comitlan” that means “place of potters in Nahuatl”
when it was under the Aztec control. Nowadays, it is called Comitan de Dominguez as honor to Belisario
Dominguez Palencia, doctor and politician who was assassinated in 1913 for his outspoken opposition to
Huerta's usurpation of the presidency.
In 1813, in answer to petitions brought to the courts of Cádiz by the Chiapas representative don Mariano
Robles, Comitan took the title of city, the second in the province. On the August 28, Fray Matias de Córdova
convened a solemn mass at 8 in the morning in Santo Domingo to consider the subject of Chiapas
independence. In this mass fray Matías delivered a speech to the people of Comitan, calling upon them to
declare their city free from Spain. This memorable evening ended at the municipal council with the signing of
the Independence Act of Comitan, the first in Central America. On March 24, 1824 all parties expressed their
desire to join México or, as it was called then, the recently created United Provinces of Central America.
Comitan, where the Tzeltal, Cavil, Coxoh, and Tojolabal languages were spoken, came under the patronage
of Diego Holguin, while matters related to the Indigenous Republic were in charge of a council, whose first
governor was don Luis de Velasco. The presence of the Dominican order was fundamental, having been in
the area since the middle of the 16th century and having established in Comitan one of their main convents
which was dependent upon the towns of Zapaluta, Coapa, Coneta, Aquespala, Esquintenango, Comalapa,
Chicomuselo y Yayagüita. The friars also established the first haciendas on the plains, which is why it
became known as La Frailesca de Comitan.
In the mid 19th century, two events occurred that are worth noting because of the influence they have had
upon history: the beginning of a popular cult of San Caralampio, and the expulsion of the Dominican order as
a consequence of the Reform Laws.
Among all the tourist attractions around Comitan are the National Park “Lagunas de Montebello”, the
archaeological zones of “Tenam Puente and Chinkultik”, the waterfalls of “El Chiflon”, the “Santa Maria”
museum of Sacred Art and hotel and the “Lagos de Colon”. Comitan is 80 kilometers from the Guatemalan
border.
Comitan has developed high quality tourism services, making it an ideal destination to spend some pleasant
days exploring this edge of the State of Chiapas. Comitan's main plaza (also known as the “Parque Central”)
is an attractive, multi-level mix of benches, trees and art sculptures; there is also a fountain on the west side
of it. Immediately off the main square you’ll find the Church of Santo Domingo, the Cultural Centre “Rosario
Castellanos”, the Doctor Belisario Dominguez Museum, the Junchavin Theatre, the Municipal building and
the “Portales” around the main plaza with their unique style and brown color.
It is worth to walk around Comitan discovering and enjoying the restaurants, churches, small shops selling
locally crafted items and all the important tourist places that all together represent the exceptional
architectonic style of this city.
ACCOMMODATIONS
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Hotel Hacienda de los Angeles
Parador – Museo Santa Maria in la Trinitaria
ECOTOURISM AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
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The surroundings of Comitan de Dominguez are perfect setting to enjoy the nature with is flora and fauna.
The nature lovers can explore different activities that go from camping around the Lakes of Montebello,
swimming at the different waterfalls, rafting on the rivers or hiking around the lagoons and swamps.
Mirador El Encuentro (The Meeting Lookout): Offers panoramic views of a huge canyon, at the bottom of
which two rivers meet. It is located on the way to the ejido (municipality) Jerusalen, along the Southern
Frontier Highway (carretera Fronteriza del Sur) 30 minutes after the road to Lago Tziscao.
Santo Domingo River: Offers a unique place to appreciate nature and take photographs, from a bridge over
the river. It is located on the Southern Frontier Highway (carretera Fronteriza del Sur) just 3 minutes from the
intersection with the dirt road to ejido Jerusalen.
Las Nubes (The Clouds) waterfalls: Located just 3 hours from Comitan, this is part of the swift Santo
Domingo River where there are many turquoise-colored waterfalls and in many sections rapid currents for
rafting. From the Southern Frontier Highway (carretera Fronteriza del Sur) going towards the Ejido
Jerusalen, it is 13 km (7.8 miles) of dirt road to reach the ejido Las Nubes, and from there, 20 minutes to
reach the first waterfall and the Las Golondrinas suspension bridge. The adventure increases from this point,
offering three choices: to go to the Causas Verdes waterfall, the Selva Loma Bonita path, and the Santa
Margarita lookout, the latter a favorite of rock-climbers.
Las Guacamayas tourist center: Reached by the Southern Frontier Highway (carretera fronteriza del sur)
up to Benemérito de las Americas, there turning off on an unpaved road of approximately 36 km (22.5 miles).
This tourist center is located within the community of Reforma Agraria. It was created to preserve the Red
Guacamayas birds. It is ideal for bird watchers and nature lovers since many species of animals, especially
birds, and the natural vegetation can be observed hiking through the rain forest. The center offers cabins, a
restaurant, camping site and parking lot.
Montebello Lakes National Park: Less than an hour drive from Comitan, on the border with Guatemala, are
the Lakes of Montebello (National Park.) There are over 50 lakes here, from which half are on Mexican
territory and the other half on Guatemalan territory; around ten of the lakes are easily accessible via some
well traced roads. The lakes of the Montebello area, once a part of the colonial Hacienda of Tepancuapan,
were the first Protected Area decreed in Chiapas. Its beauty is without a doubt among Mexico's most
spectacular, due to the surface and underground waters arising from the calcareous soil, framed in lush pine
and mixed forests full of bromeliads and orchids. The lakes are uvulas or ancient natural wells that have
become joined through time due to the corrosion and collapse of the limestone floor. Three horseback tours
through the Bosque Azul (Blue Forest) are recommended; The Montebello Lagoon trip, lasting about 1 ½
hour (visiting two natural wells located in the middle of the forest; the Ensueño Laguna (Illusion Lagoon) and
the Esmeralda Laguna (Emerald Lagoon). Upon arriving at Lake Montebello you can board a vehicle to
continue touring to other lagoons.
At the National Park eco-tourism trips on horseback or in boats, walking and bicycle tours are available. On
the route to Yamul-Los cenotes, there are three different underground pools and a three-hour horseback ride
is available. At the Grutas (The Grottos) de San Jose-El Arco tour, there is a 1-¼ hour walk and see Rio
Escondido (Hidden River), El Arco de Piedra (the Stone Arch) and Las Grutas (The Grottos) ideal places to
take memorable photographs. The lakes themselves are well worth experiencing; they all reflect turquoise
blues and greens, and some of them with the scenic backdrop of the surrounding mountains and forests, the
area is great for a whole day's exploration. The lakes have a calm, serene and relaxing feel to them; the air
is sweet and pure, and even during busy times, because of its size, you'll always be able to find a quiet
corner to just sit and ponder, surrounded by some of nature's most unbelievable creations. Small boats and
makeshift rafts, made from tree trunks tied together are available for hire at most of the larger lakes, in case
you want to go out on the water and get a view from the lakes themselves.
Cascadas El Chiflón (Windy Waterfalls): These falls are located half an hour away from downtown
Comitan, in the municipality of Tzimol, arriving via the Comitan-Tzimol state road. The Chiflón Falls are
surrounded by cane fields, mountains and jungle. The Bride’s Veil (Velo de Novia), the most impressive
waterfall at the site, is a curtain of water formed by the tumbling San Vicente River. This flows into turquoise
pools ideal for swimming. There is a 1.28 km (3/4 mile) hike on walkways, stairs and paths to get to the
breathtaking view of the 120 m (400 ft) waterfall that flows into the San Vicente River. Next to the waterfalls,
there are Mayan ruins. This is also a perfect spot for taking photographs. In the surrounding area, there are
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two smaller waterfalls with natural swimming pools and the opportunity to see ancient petrogylph art. There
are basic services offered by the inhabitants of the area. It is also possible to practice rappel from the cave
or dive into the water from the first ledge of the waterfall - if one has the aptitude to do this, and always
following the advice of the locals. One can hike in the forest, surrounded by nature, take pictures, go
swimming and have a very pleasant picnic. The center offers cabins, barbeque areas, shops, restaurant,
parking lot, camping site and activities such as Tyrolese, mountain bikes, wall climbing and nature paths.
The falls are open Monday through Sunday from 8:00 to 17:00
Scuba Diving in the Chucumaltic Lagoon: Just half an hour away from Comitan, is a deep, crystalline
lagoon with excellent conditions for scuba diving. It can be reached from the road to Uninajab, five minutes
before reaching the bathing resort.
Eco-tourism Center of Colon Lakes: Located 71 km (50 minutes) from Comitan in the municipality of La
Trinitaria, on the International road Comitan-Ciudad Cuauhtemoc. There are over 20 lagoons, ranging from
shallow to deep, rivers and waterfalls with crystalline waters. Or you can enjoy walks through the paths on
the forest, and along the rivers to reach the El Lagartero Archaeological Zone (with moderately difficult
access). Or enjoy rowboat rides and swimming. The hike to the waterfalls known as Arco iris (Rainbow) is
about 1 km (0.6 mile). There are also 6 km (4 miles) hikes through the forest, crossing various rivers, but one
should get advice from the locals, because there are some swamps and areas inhabited by crocodiles. In
order to do scuba diving at the Lagartero lagoon, it is required to get a permit from the local diving club.
Walking through paths between the lakes can be a really pleasant experience. The lakes are connected
through little water channels. To visit the whole area it will take you from four to five hours.
ARCHEOLOGY
JUNCHAVÍN ARCHAEOLOGICAL ZONE:
From the Tojolabal Mayan language, "jun" one, "chabi" guardian and "Ine" site. Junchavin is, therefore, the
Number One Guardian, or First Guardian. Today it is an archaeological site located atop a peak at the limits
of the urban limits, visible from the central area. Its occupation could date from the late pre-classical (600 100 B.C.) to the early post classic (900 - 1250 A.D.) There are other ruins named Nehuestic, Chabin II,
Lagartijero, Cash, Cerro de Goc, Juznajab, Punta de lanza and Tenam Puente.
NOTE: There is presently no public access due to a disposition from INAH (National Institute of Anthropology
and History)
TENAM PUENTE:
This archeological site is located ten minutes drive from Comitan in a series of hills moderately elevated
above the Valley of Comitan at a height ranging between 1600 and 1700 m. above sea level, reaching a
breadth of approximately two km square. Tenam Puente is derived from the Nauhua meaning "fort" or
"fortified place" and was an ancient civic ceremonial center. The maximum population during the preHispanic settlement occurred the late classic period (600 - 900A.D.) and it was probably a western outpost
during the height of the Maya civilization. The nucleus of the settlement is composed by more than 60
structures distributed on an expanse of 30 hectares (66 acres). The majority and most important of these
buildings are located in what is called the Acropolis. In order to build the Acropolis, it was necessary to level
the hills using long, high terraces built at different levels, which, as they rise they become less wide and tall.
Above these various platforms were built open and closed plazas, small squares and patios, delimited by
various constructions. It will take about two hours to see the buildings and enjoy the sights from the highest
buildings in Tenam Puente.
CHINKULTIK:
Located 56 kilometers away from Comitan, in the heart of a pinewood forest and next to small lakes, the
marvelous Mayan city of Chincultik emerges. The earliest structures have been dated as early classic (100
B.C. to 200 A. D.) and its maximum development happened during the late classic (600 - 900 A.D.) and
continued during the early post classic. The constructions at the site were built against the hills that run
alongside the first lakes of the Montebello lake system. Through leveling, filling and recovering, these
structures were adapted to the natural topography of the land. The placement of the structures combines the
lower open spaces with those above, these last stages to be viewed from a great distance. The most
outstanding structure from Group A is the Acropolis, which was reached by ascending a great staircase,
leading to the topmost of the group. Here is located the structure built at the edge of the holy blue water hole
(the Blue Cenote, a Ritual Well). Also prominent among the groups within the Acropolis are Group B,
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constituted by a great plaza that functioned as a stage, a sunken space with its small central structure, three
pyramids and on the opposite side a series of steps on three of its sides; group C containing the ball court;
and group D from which the prominent Building 20, known as "The Flat Stones Platform," whose rectangular
limestone blocks are the largest known in Mayan archeology. A beautiful view of the surrounded area
including lakes and fields dedicated to the agriculture can be seen at the top of the main building, giving the
visitor the chance to capture a wonderful sight of the valley.
ATTRACTIONS AND HISTORIC ARCHITECTURE
Temple of Santo Domingo: Founded in 1556, the date of the arrival of the Dominicans in Comitan.
Throughout its existence it has undergone many modifications: for example, the roof was completely
replaced in 1866 and the Chapel of the Holy Conception dates from 1873. The temple is the setting for the
festivities celebrating Saint Domenicus in August. While the façade emphasizes the neoclassical style, the
tower is the most outstanding element of the building. A series of massive cubes, relate the tower to the
minarets found in north Africa and to the mudejar towers of Dominican churches. In 1983 a series of blind
arches on four levels, reminiscent of medieval Italian styles, were discovered inside the tower. The carved
panels on the ceiling, inspired by mudejar carpentry from southern Spain, were a practical solution for the
ceilings in 16th century new Spain. This high-quality paneling was built in the 19th century, replacing and
imitating the original. The stained glass windows dating from the mid 20th century give accents of color to a
sober interior. They are arranged in sections representing the doctors of the church apostles (Saint Thomas
and Sainte Theresa), the apostles (Saint Peter and Saint Paul) and the Creole American Saints (Saint Rose
of Lima and Saint Phillip of Jesus). The main altar was restored in 1956 using marble, so as to
commemorate the 400 years of the city’s foundation.
The Municipal Palace: This edifice originated with the building ordered by the political chief Eleuterio
Aguilar. Subsequently, there were two remodeling efforts that resulted in the arcade and the Neoclassic
balconies facing the Belisario Dominguez Plaza. In its patio there is a statue of the city's eponym hero
Belisario Dominguez. The building has Murals by Manuel Suasnávar, which depict the historic events,
covering the walls of the stairwell.
Junchavín City Theatre: This building, along with the Dominican Temple and the Municipal Palace,
completes a triangle around the plaza: Art, Religion and Government. The imposing building, constructed in
the Neoclassic style characteristic of the Porfirio Diaz era, belonged to Natalia Rovelo Arguello, but a San
Cristobal promoter, Daniel Zebadua, purchased it and turned it into a theatre. A fire destroyed it in 1940 but it
was then restored and turned into a cinema. During the 1980's it was again made into a theatre and given
the name Junchavin. Currently it is the main artistic forum in Comitan, with a capacity for 450 spectators.
San Caralampio Temple; Built in1852 in honor of San Caralampio, a martyr who people were devoted to,
after the cholera and smallpox epidemic that killed many people in the middle of the 19 th century. Its position
on the top of a mountain heightens its mystical ambiance. The façade has a popular flavor notwithstanding
its link with neoclassic models. The same neoclassic style, in a more polished fashion, predominates in the
interior, decorated with Corinthian columns and a main arch with dent form cornices. The roof is made of
wood and tile, and the choir is made of wood as well. The three niches of the main altar hold The Virgin of
Lourdes, The Sacred Heart of Jesus and of course the patron saint, Caralampio. One of the most important
celebrations in Comitan is the San Caralampio’s religious festivity which takes place from the 11th to the
20th of February in the neighborhood of La Pila.
San Sebastian's Church: The church’s construction dates back to the 17th century. It is located in the plaza
of the neighborhood of San Sebastian. The details and construction belongs to the Baroque style. Fray
Matias de Cordova y Ordoñez (his sculpture is located next to the church) was the priest of this church when
he and the people of Comitan decided to proclaim the independence of the State of Chiapas from
Guatemala on August 28, 1821.
Copanaguastla: Located in Socoltenango municipality, just 45 minutes from Comitan on the road to Tzimol.
It is a temple damaged by time, but with enough architectural features to appreciate. The Dominican friars,
among who was Fray Domingo de Ara, founded their second house in this state here, in the hope of turning
it into a great evangelization center. Judging from the magnitude of what remains of the building, it must
have been built after 1556, perhaps under the guidance of Fray Francisco de la Cruz. In the 16th century this
territory was especially rich because of its cotton fields, minerals, cattle ranching and location along the
Camino Real (Royal Road) to Guatemala. The convent was abandoned at the beginning of the next century,
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but legend has it that the persistent worship of pre-Hispanic deities, hidden behind the main altar of the
church, brought divine punishment. Because of its historic circumstances, the Temple of Copanaguastla
conserves its original architectural character, making it especially important in the study of Chiapas and
Central American colonial art.
San José Coneta: This ancient town was probably founded before 1596 by inhabitants speaking the Coxoh
language, as a dependency of the Dominican friars of Comitan, and probably destroyed in the 18th century.
Its 17th century church has an extraordinary façade, one of the greatest monuments of colonial Chiapas art.
FESTIVALS AND TRADITIONS
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January 1, New Year's Festivities, celebration of Masses, parades and fireworks.
The San Sebastian Festivity, celebrated from January 10 to 20 in Comitan.
The festivities of the Candelaria the first and second of February in Socoltenango.
The festivity of San Caralampio celebrated from February 10 to 20 in Comitan.
In February, the Niño de Atocha festivities in Comalapa.
The contest of indigenous music and dance celebrated the March 19 in Nuevo Huixtán.
March – April the Easter activities in Comitan. Processions, celebration of masses throughout the
state. In some towns, the Burning of Judas ritual takes place - represented by paper-maché figures
and cartoons of historical or contemporary personalities.
May – June the Holy Trinity's Festivity in La Trinitaria.
The Internacional Festival Rosario Castellanos, celebrated from July 10 to 20 in Comitan.
The International Expo celebrated in Comitan from July 26 to August 8
August 1 - 10, Santo Domingo Fair (the town's patron saint): masses are celebrated, parades and
other popular events.
September 16 is National Independence Day, celebrated with the Mayor presiding over the
traditional ceremony of "El Grito" (the Shout for Independence).
November 1 and 2 are All Saints Day and Day of the Dead. Offerings are placed at the graves of the
deceased to welcome and summon their souls, which are believed to return during these days. The
offerings include traditional meals placed on altars inside the houses along with candles and flowers,
or at the graves where families spend the day praying.
December 12 is the festival of the Patron Saint of all Mexico, the Virgin of Guadalupe celebrated with
Mass, serenades and pilgrimages.
GASTRONOMY
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Chanfaina de Borrego: Cooked lamb tripe and other entrails with tomatoes, spices and chile
poblano
Tamales pitaúl: Tamales made with fresh beans mixed with corn meal and chopped coriander
Tortillas con asiento: Tortillas smeared with pork lard
Pickles: Vegetables in vinaigrette
Chinculguajes: Tortillas filled with beans, coriander and hot peppers
Salpicón de Res: Chopped and cooked beef with lemon, onions and parsley
Pan de salvadillo con temperante: A comitecan with bread with colored sugar syrup
Africanos: A typical baked candy made from egg yolks and sugar
Maíz de guineo: Cane molasses mixed with dried pumpkin seeds
Chimbos: Bread with a special syrup and eggs
Temperante: A red and sweet beverage made from sugar syrup with vegetable colorant
Comiteco: strong liquor from Comitan, aguardiente (firewater) distilled from the maguey plant
Agua de tzilacayote: Drink made with a special regional fruit
Jucuatol: A hot drink made with fermented corn mixed with water and sweetened with cane
molasses
MUSEUMS
The Museum of Sacred Art: Located at The Parador - Museum Santa Maria, which is located along the
Mayan Route in the border region of Chiapas. The distance from the Parador to the archaeological zone of
Chinkultic is only ten kilometers, whereas the distance to the multicolored Lakes of Montebello is 13
kilometers. The building dates from the 19th century and has through extensive renovation been brought
back to its former splendor. Its interiors are decorated throughout with period furniture and works of art
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covering many centuries, creating an evocative and exclusive atmosphere. The museum features a
magnificent collection of art from the 16th to the 19th centuries. Here is a spectacular setting, filled with
important paintings, sculptures and objects of gold. The museum is a showcase of European and Mexican
artists and painters, bearing testimony to colonial Chiapanecan plastic arts. Furthermore, the museum
features beautiful pieces carved in ivory from the 17th and 18th centuries, sculptures that seem to come alive,
evoking the Naos of China that during centuries arrived at Veracruz, bringing treasures that are a part of
Mexico’s great cultural heritage. The Museum of Sacred Art of the Parador - Museum Santa Maria,
welcomes visitors in order to spread knowledge of the cultural history so unique to Chiapas and Mexico.
Rosario Castellanos Cultural Center: Constructed in the 1930s, on the site that the Dominican Convent
occupied, something of the monarchal hush is maintained in the interior. In the patio filled with orange trees
that arch over the bust of Rosario Castellanos are two workshops - one for marimba (xylophone) and one for
traditional textiles. In counterpoint to the wooden portals on the south and west of the plaza, is the brilliant
stone architecture of the building which previously was a barracks and a school, today housing the Cultural
Center. The most notable works of art are: A mural depicting the history of Comitan and the most
outstanding personalities of the city, by Rafael Muñoz López and the other a large toy sculpture in homage
to traditional Mexican toys. This beautiful building also houses the Archaeological Museum of Comitan that
exhibits pieces of the Mayan Culture. The Cultural Center is open Monday to Friday from 08:00 to 17:00.
Doctor Belisario Domínguez House Museum: The Dominguez family house is a fine example of
Comitan's 19th century mansions. Its balconies and garden give a special aspect to this traditional
architecture. On its façade the entrance is most notable with its large summoning beadle in the shape of
Fatima's hand. The house used to be larger, but the remaining part, through its six different rooms; the
museum describes the life and work of Doctor Belisario Dominguez, martyr of the “free word”. His daughter,
Doña Hermila Dominguez de Castellanos, donated most of the objects for the museum, which was
inaugurated in1985, having as curator Ms. Hilda Castañon Morell. The museum is open Tuesday to
Saturday from 10:00 to 19:00 and Sunday from 09:00 to 12:00.
The Hermila Dominguez Art Museum: This museum was opened in 1988 by the painters Francisco Toledo
and Gunther Gerzso, whose work is exhibited there. It has a permanent exhibition of Rufino Tamayo. This
museum houses the artwork of the regional painting school. It is open Monday to Friday from 09:00 to 19:00.
For prices, reservations, availability and bookings, please contact us at:
visit@luxuriousmexico.com
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