ACADEMY THE STUDY OF SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS AND PROCESSES USED IN PRODUCTION BY KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL GAIN KNOWLEDGE. TAKE ACTION. EARN RESPECT. HEAD OFFICE Nystedvej 11, 7400 Herning Denmark Phone +45 70209031 SHOWROOM Blegdamsvej 28C, 2nd fl., 2200 Copenhagen N, Denmark info@knowledgecottonapparel.com www.knowledgecottonapparel.com A HISTORY OF QUALITY Jørgen Mørup and His Passion for Quality Since 1969 COTTON, WOOL, & LINEN 100% Certified Organic RECYCLED PET From Bottle to Fabric FABRIC PRODUCTION Weaving, Knitting, Sewing & More FACTS ABOUT COTTON Organic vs. Conventional ACADEMY DID YOU KNOW? CONVENTIONAL COTTON PRODUCTION IS VERY DEPENDENT ON PESTICIDES AND FERTILIZERS. SEVERAL PESTICIDES ARE KNOWN TO CAUSE CANCER. THE TOP 5 PESTICIDES USED COUNT FOR 42% OF ALL CHEMICALS USED IN COTTON INDUSTRY – THEY ARE KNOWN TO BE CANCER-CAUSING AND GROUND WATER CONTAMINATING. NOT ONLY FARMERS ARE AFFECTED — PESTICIDES HAVE A NEGATIVE IMPACT ON THE SOIL, WATER AND AIR WE ALL SHARE. ACADEMY THIS ACADEMY BOOK IS MADE TO SHARE OUR KNOWLEDGE OF THE MATERIALS AND PROCESSES THAT ARE USED IN THE PRODUCTION OF KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL PRODUCTS. WE AIM TO EXPLORE AND EXPLAIN THE KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL PRODUCTION CHAIN AND HIGHLIGHT OUR APPROACH TO SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION. Did you know? To make 1 million T-Shirts from conventional Cotton uses 165,000 Kg of chemicals, equivalent to the weight of 4.5 full 18 wheeler trucks. Do your part to prevent these chemicals from entering our soil, our water and our bodies. 1 T-SHIRT MADE WITH NON-ORGANIC COTTON COTTON................................................................... 4 WOOL...................................................................... 5 0.4 Kg 0.165 Kg RAW COTTON CHEMICALS PET........................................................................... 6 LINEN....................................................................... 7 1 FABRIC..................................................................... 8 T-SHIRT DYEING.................................................................... 9 MADE WITH 100% ORGANIC COTTON = 0 KG CHEMICALS OR PESTICIDES SEWING................................................................... 10 CERTIFICATES........................................................ 11 ? We save our planet and health from 165 grams of chemicals and pesticides by each T-shirt that we produce by using Organic cotton. This savings has a positive impact on our planet, health and vegetation. Our goal is to save the environment from 150 tons of pesticides and fertilizers by the year 2015 through our use of 100% Certified Organic Cotton. Moreover, we support Cotton farmers and their families by not using any chemicals and pesticides. We grow our Cotton naturally. We only use of 100% certified Organic Cotton and other sustainable materials out of the respect for our Earth, Respect for health and quality of the lives of Cotton farmers and their families, and Respect for you, the consumer. Sustainable quality is at the heart of KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL. COTTON FACTS..................................................... 12 Art Director…................................................................ Richard Kuchinsky/The Directive Collective Contributing Editors/Writers............................................................Ruta Brase, Richard Kuchinsky Marketing…...................................................................................................................................... Ruta Brase Layout/Design/Illustration.......................................Richard Kuchinsky/The Directive Collective Production…............................................................................................ Ruta Brase, Richard Kuchinsky COPYRIGHT © KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL, 2011 1 ACADEMY A HISTORY OF QUALITY COTTON CONVENTIONAL COTTON PRODUCTION IS VERY DEPENDENT ON PESTICIDES AND FERTILIZERS. SEVERAL PESTICIDES ARE KNOWN TO CAUSE CANCER. THE TOP 5 PESTICIDES USED COUNT FOR 42% OF ALL CHEMICALS USED IN COTTON INDUSTRY – THEY ARE KNOWN TO BE CANCER-CAUSING AND GROUND WATER CONTAMINATING. NOT ONLY FARMERS ARE AFFECTED; PESTICIDES HAVE A NEGATIVE IMPACT ON THE SOIL, WATER AND AIR WE ALL SHARE. (SINCE 1969) KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL IS BUILT ON OVER 40 YEARS OF FAMILY EXPERIENCE IN DESIGN, INNOVATION, RESPONSIBLE ENVIRONMENTAL PRACTICE, AND PASSION FOR QUALITY. THESE FUNDAMENTAL STANDARDS REMAIN AT THE CORE OF OUR BUSINESS PHILOSOPHY TODAY. I was born and raised in Herning, a small town in Central Jutland, Denmark. There, from basements, garages, outbuildings and factories the clacking and humming sounds of sewing machines was heard day and night. Herning was a bustling textile center, and here, people who dreamt of making things were given the space to do so. I, however, had humble beginnings in this business. It all started in 1969 in a dilapidated fire station with a second-hand weaving machine my father and I had brought from England. As a 21 year old who knew absolutely nothing about textiles I was taught the hard way – by making and fixing my own mistakes. Time has a particular significance to me. Quality takes time and this is reflected in the product. I believe in an original and natural product, and this is the root of my love of cotton. I am inspired by the simplicity and honesty of a fiber that is harvested from a plant, grown from a seed, in the Earth, over time. 01 Cotton Plant Like these cotton seeds, I now consider my own experience in the textile industry one which has come time to harvest. As I was inspired by my father in 1969 to start with my own machine and ideas, I now seek to inspire my son, Mads, and future generations. 01 01 Cotton Plant The leftovers of plant after ginning end up in our food chain. The shells are used for animal food. The oil is pressed out of the seeds of the plant and used in the food industry. 01 01 Cotton Plant The leftovers of plant after ginning end up in our food chain. The shells are used for animal food. The oil is pressed out of the seeds of the plant and used in the food industry. 01 The leftovers of plant after ginning end up in our food chain. The shells are used for animal food. The oil is pressed out of the seeds of the plant and used in the food industry. KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL is this future founded upon the principles of my past. The more I worked, the more I learnt. It was here I first developed a passion for knowledge. After a while it paid off - I had my first customer. When I received that first order I sang all the way home in my car! Built upon a shared philosophy and love of technology, innovation and ecology, KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL is a family firm where tradition is more than storytelling. Tradition and family knowledge are used every day. Only in this way can we create quality products we can stand behind together that may live to inspire the next generation in another 25 years. Despite starting with an old, second hand machine, as business progressed I saw the advantages of technology. Like knowledge, JØRGEN MØRUP, Owner and Director of J. Mørup Stof. technology evolves and can make The many years I have spent in the textile industry easy what was once difficult. Always looking for the have taught me perseverance and courage. Pursue latest technology and innovation, I would spend your ideas as time is the ultimate judge. Dare to hours on-end driving and flying across the country believe and stand upon principle. We may never in search of the latest and greatest ideas to help reach our goals but the challenge and process of increase business. striving for them is ultimately the reward. From this perspective of innovation, ecology developed as a foundation to create new and unique products. I created my first ecological products more than 25 years ago. Over time, as technology and trends have changed, - Jørgen Mørup my commitment to knowledge, innovation and natural choices has not. This is a personal philosophy. JØRGEN MØRUP and Uncle HENRY MØRUP. Herning, Denmark, 1969, J. MØRUP STOF fabric mill. GAIN KNOWLEDGE. TAKE ACTION. EARN RESPECT. In a culture focused on calls to action, demands of change, and personal pledges of revolution, our belief is that any individual accomplishment is a small step in the process of change. Our founding philosophy is one that hopes to spread knowledge, encourage discussion and make the leap from individual to collective participation. At the heart of this philosophy is the notion of respect. We only use of 100% certified Organic cotton out of the respect for our Earth, Respect for health and quality of lives of the cotton farmers and their families and Respect for you, the consumer. Sustainable quality is at the heart of KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL. Both knowledge and action are the foundation of respect. We know that respect is earned, not commanded. Gain Knowledge, Take Action, Earn Respect. 2 3 ACADEMY COTTON WOOL COTTON IS A SOFT FIBRE THAT GROWS AROUND THE SEEDS OF THE COTTON PLANT. ORGANIC COTTON IS PRODUCED AND CERTIFIED ACCORDING TO ORGANIC AND AGRICULTURE STANDARDS. THIS MEANS THAT IT IS PRODUCED WITHOUT USE OF PESTICIDES, DEFOLIANTS AND FERTILIZERS. IN 2010 ORGANIC COTTON REPRESENTED ONLY 1.1 % OF GLOBAL COTTON PRODUCTION. KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL ONLY USES 100% CERTIFIED ORGANIC COTTON. MOST OF THE WOOL KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL USES IS CERTIFIED ORGANIC. IT IS 100% PURE NEW WOOL FROM MERINO SHEEP. THE WOOL WE USE IS MAINLY FROM SOUTH AMERICA. WE CALL THIS WOOL ‘HAPPY SHEEP WOOL’ AS IT BUILDS ON ORGANIC AND ANIMAL WELFARE. 01 01 Cotton Plant 02 Ginning Machine 04 Cotton Yarn Spools 05 Raw Fabric 06 Colour Dyeing 02 The wool is now cleaned and combed. 03 Raw wool fibres are now dyed into several colour shades. All dyeing is done with the use of Certified and non toxic dyes. 04 The dyed wool is now spun into yarn, in the exact thickness that we need for the garment. yarn is now knitted into 05 The a fabric on flat knit machines. First the cotton is picked. 02 It goes through a cotton ginning machine and other processes that separates the cotton fibres from the shells and seed. 03 The leftovers of plant after ginning end up in our food chain. The shells are used for animal food. The oil is pressed out of the seeds of the plant and used in the food industry. 07 The Organic dyed fabric is now cut and sewn into apparel. 01 Wool Shearing 02 Wool Combing Sheep/animal must feed and forage from the last third of the gestation must be Certified Organic. The use of synthetic hormones and genetic engineering are prohibited. The use of synthetic pesticides (internal and external and pastures) are prohibited. For example, pesticide baths are prohibited. 03 Wool Colouring Producers are required to ensure that they do not exceed the natural capacity of the land on which animals graze. Mulesing is not allowed. All the wool that KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL uses is mulesing free. This if of the highest importance to us. 04 Wool Spinning are spun thinner and thinner though several production steps ending up as finished yarn. yarn is now 05 The raw jersey fabrics. 100% ORGANIC WOOL : knitted garment pieces are 06 The sewn together. clean cotton fibres then go 04 The to the spinning mill. There they 100% ORGANIC COTTON This includes animal welfare, feeding and forbidding the use of fattening up aids or pesticides on either the animals or the soil on which they graze. Here the colour combinations and structure are added to the coming garment. 03 By-Product Re-Use 01 100% ORGANIC WOOL = “HAPPY SHEEP” First the wool is cut from sheep. 100% WOOL FOR ANIMAL WELFARE knitted into the fabric is dyed into 06 Afterwards a specific colour. KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL only uses certified and non toxic colours. This means that there are no heavy metals, Chrome, Formaldehyde, or other hazardous chemicals in our fabrics. 4 07 Finished Apparel 05 Wool Knitting 5 06 Finished Garment ACADEMY PET* LINEN PET IS POLYETHYLENE TEREPHTHALATE, A TYPE OF PLASTIC DERIVED FROM PETROLEUM USED TO MAKE SOFT DRINK BOTTLES. USING RECYCLED PET BOTTLES, WE CREATE PET POLYESTER. POLYESTER IS VERY RESILIENT, QUICK DRYING, AND IS EASY TO WASH WHILE KEEPING ITS SHAPE. LINEN IS A NATURAL TEXTILE MADE FROM THE FIBERS OF THE FLAX PLANT, LINUM USITATISSIMUM. GARMENTS HAVE BEEN MADE FROM LINEN FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS AND IT IS ONE OF THE OLDEST FIBERS USED FOR TEXTILE PRODUCTION. LINEN IS WELL KNOWN FOR ITS STRENGTH, ABSORPTION AND COOLNESS TO THE TOUCH. LINEN TEXTILES ARE DURABLE, QUICK DRYING, AND EVEN STRONGER WET THAN DRY. ORGANIC LINEN IS GROWN WITHOUT ANY SYNTHETIC FERTILIZERS. POLY ETHYLENE TEREPHTHALATE 05 Raw Fabric Did you know? In the USA, 2.5 Million bottles are tossed out every hour! 04 Retting and Scutching 02 Shredding Machine 01 Flax Plant 01 Recycled PET Bottles 03 PET Pellets Plastic bottles are collected from land fills. It takes 500 years for a PET bottle to decompose if not recycled. 03 Poly Ethylene Terephthalate and sewing is done at 06 Cutting the garment factory. The PET jacket now takes shape! 02 100% RECYCLED PET BOTTLES 02 Flax Stalks 03 Rippling 05 Linen Fabric 06 Batch Dyeing 06 Sewing into Apparel 01 01 05 Linen Yarn Spools 04 Yarn Spinning Bottles are cut into small flakes. PET flakes are made into pellets. By using recycled Polyester vs. virgin Polyester the CO2 emission from production process is reduced by 75 % 02 Linen is made from the Flax plant. It takes around 100 days from seed planting to harvest. When ready, plants are pulled out of the ground with roots intact. This can be done by hand or by machine. The stalks are then tied in bundles – these are called beets. 03 The plant is passed through coarse combs, which removes the seeds and leaves from the plant. This is called Rippling. No part of the Flax plant is wasted: the seeds produce linseed oil and the seed also contains Omega3 which is healthy for humans. then go through a 04 Stalks process called Retting that softens and loosens the outer part of the bark. Linen fibres are then made 05 These into yarn and the yarn is then knitted into raw Linen fabrics. fabric is then batch dyed 06 The by rolls, ensuring consistent quality and finish. 07 The Organic dyed fabric is now cut and sewn into apparel. Stalks are then dried again and sent through the flatted rollers which by breaking and beating the stalk, finally separates the textile fibres from the woody bark. This is called Scutching. the production process 04 Through the Polyester fibre is spun into a stable or filament yarn. yarn is now woven into raw 05 The PET fabrics. 07 Sewing 07 Finished Apparel 6 07 Finished Apparel 7 ACADEMY FABRIC DYEING FABRIC CAN BE DIVIDED INTO TWO GROUPS BASED ON IT PRODUCTION BY 2 DIFFERENT TECHNOLOGIES — THOSE THAT ARE WOVEN AND THOSE THAT ARE KNIT. THESE PROCESSES HAVE BEEN DEVELOPED CENTURIES AGO AND HAVE BEEN USED AS LONG AS MAN HAS DRESSED. TODAY THESE PROCESSES REMAIN FUNDAMENTALLY WHILE MODERN MACHINERY NOW TAKES THE PLACE OF HUMAN LABOR. IN THIS STEP THE FABRIC TRANSFERS FROM RAW NATURAL FIBER COLOUR INTO THE NAVY, REDS OR GREENS YOU WILL FIND IN OUR COLLECTION. DYEING WAS TRADITIONALLY DONE BY USING VEGETABLES, FLOWERS AND HERBS. KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL USES ONLY NONHARMFUL DYESTUFFS AND MODERN DYE HOUSES FOCUSED ON MINIMIZING WATER USAGE AND RESPONSIBLE WASTE WATER TREATMENT. 01 Yarn cones before the knitting and weaving process. soft knitted jersey fabric is 04 The used in KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL T-shirts, Henleys, Sweatshirts among others. fabric is knit on a circular 02 The knitting machine where the fabric is created in the round like a spiral. 03 Alternatively the yarn can be woven into a fabric. Here 2 sets of yarn called the warp and the weft are placed on the loom, woven into fabric. The thread runs in a straight line making the fabric less stretchable but very durable. 01 Rolls of Fabric 02 Circular Knitting Machine woven fabric is used in our 05 The Shirts, Chinos, and Jackets as well as other apparel. 01 Yarn Cones Did you know? The topology of a knit fabric is relatively complex. Here stitches follow a loop path around the machine. The stitches are knit into each other binding each stitch together. Because there is no straight line of yarn the fabric is stretchable in all directions. 01 Raw fabric from raw fibres. 03 Dyeing 02 Washing 02 In the wash process the leftovers from dirt, mechanic oil etc. are washed out 03 In the dying machine the colour is added. When producing according to sustainable practices, the dyes cannot contain chrome, heavy metals or formaldehyde. 04 Water Filtration work with Certified dyehouses. 04 We No waste water goes directly into nature or local waters. dying fabric is dried on a 05 After stenceframe. The finished quality is set here. CLEAN H2O All water is cleaned in waste water treatment plants certified to meet organic standards 03 Weaving Machine 05 Fabric Drying 8 9 ACADEMY SEWING CERTIFICATES THIS STEP IN THE PRODUCTION PROCESS IS THE TAILORING OF THE GARMENT. HERE KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL CRAFTS OUR UNIQUE DESIGNS AND THE GARMENT BEGINS TO TAKE SHAPE – IT IS AT THIS STEP YOU WILL FIND THE ADDED FEATURES WHICH GIVE OUR GARMENT THE KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL DNA. THERE ARE A HUGE NUMBER OF LABELS FOR THE CONSUMER TO RELATE TO. AT KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL WE HAVE CHOSEN TO WORK WITH AND FOCUS ON 3 ENVIRONMENTAL STANDARDS WHICH WE BELIEVE ARE THE BEST AND MOST CREDIBLE AS THEY HAVE THE HIGHEST DOCUMENTATION REQUIREMENTS FOR THE ORGANIC PRODUCTION CHAIN. ORGANIZATION 01 Rolls of Fabric 01 Fabric is ready in rolls, dyed in colours, with a nice soft touch. 02 Flat Fabric Layers 02 Fabric is taken from the rolls and placed on top of each other layer by layer. 03 Garment sizes are cut in paper and placed on top of the fabric. One paper pattern - one size. One garment part - one size. XL stitching, the cut fabric 04 In parts are sewn together ! 04 Stitching STANDARDS CERTIFICATES Details, accessories and special sewing techniques are added as your KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL garment is born and ready for you to wear. garments are then 05 Finished packed, shipped and ready for you to call your own! S M L TEXTILE EXCHANGE OE 100 GOTS TEXTILE EXCHANGE, formerly ORGANIC EXCHANGE is a nonprofit, tax-exempt charity that operates internationally. OE 100 is a Certification Program that is developed and managed by the Organic Exchange. GOTS stands for Global Organic Textile Standard. The aim of the GOTS standard is to define requirements to ensure Organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide a credible assurance to the consumer. TEXTILE EXCHANGE is dedicated to expanding the Organic Cotton market and has a strategic vision to support and guide the responsible expansion of sustainable textiles across the global textile value chain in order to restore the environment, and enhance lives around the world. In the past 10 years the ORGANIC EXCHANGE has by their Farm Program and support helped grow the Organic Cotton market significantly. OE 100 standard is a standard for tracking and documenting the purchase, handling, and use of 100% Certified Organically farmed Cotton fibre in yarn fabrics or finished goods. This Certification helps ensure that customers of Organic Cotton products can be confident that the products contain 100% Organic farmed Cotton. By working with GOTS certified suppliers, KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL has a means to ensure that the production is checked by a accredited inspection company, who make sure that all the requirements in the standard are met. 03 Patterns and Cutting KNOWLEDGE STANDARD We explore and work constantly to find and develop new sustainable methods and materials. In the process of working with these cutting edge materials and garments we track and control all processes according to our own KNOWLEDGE COTTON APPAREL sustainable standard. Feel safe and happy that your cutting edge product is safe and ahead of it’s time. Through our use of 100% Certified Organic Cotton and other sustainable material, it is our goal to save the environment from 150 tons of pesticides, chemicals and fertilizers by the year 2015. This target is part of our plan to ‘Take Action’, to respect the soil, underground waters, and human health. We are well on our way to achieve this. From raw material to finished garment we follow a special process of best practice principles to reduce our impact on the Earth and treat our natural resources with respect and care. 05 Packing 05 Shipping Tested and Certified, our 100% Organic Cotton is produced by natural methods that reduce pollution and enhance sustainable ecosystems always ensuring uncompromising quality. 10 11 ACADEMY COTTON FACTS ORGANIC COTTON Organic Cotton is grown in 23 countries around the world occupying 275,300 farmers. With an average family of 5, this means that the Organic farming has positive impact on 1.4 million people in developing countries. Organic Cotton only allows the use of natural fertilizers and animal manure and compost. Certified Organic Cotton only accounts for about 1.1% of total Cotton production in the world. BENEFITS OF 100% ORGANIC COTTON 100% Organic Cotton production uses less water consumption than conventional Cotton production. CO2 emission per hectare is between 48 ― 66% lower in Organic Cotton production than production using more conventional methods. Plants are more resistant to increases in temperature. Organic farming uses crop rotation to build a healthy soil and biodiversity. This also ensures a stable food supply for farmers. EFFECTS OF CONVENTIONAL COTTON ON HUMANS CONVENTIONAL COTTON AND PESTICIDES 3 out of 10 farmers have reported health problems. Between 40 ― 47% of the world’s textiles are made from Cotton. It is said that about 40,000 people die each year from pesticides and chemicals working in the Cotton business (Watch “The Conventional Trap” on You Tube). Cotton fields cover 2.4% of the world’s cultivated land and yet use 16% of the World’s insecticide and pesticide consumption. It take about 0.4 Kg Raw Cotton to make a T-Shirt. The top five most hazardous pesticides to humans count for 42% of the total pesticide use in Cotton production. These five pesticides are known to be carcinogenic, toxic and cause groundwater contamination. Suicide rates indicate that 1 farmer dies every 8 hours. Poor farmers become ill from working with pesticides and chemicals used in conventional Cotton production. This makes it impossible for them to feed their families. Suicide often involves drinking the chemical poisons they work with in conventional Cotton fields. As Cotton is a fibre, it is not regulated as food. Nevertheless, the majority by weight of the plant ends up in our food chain. It take about 0.165 Kg of fertilizers to make 0.4 Kg of Cotton. Today, over 90% of the Cotton in the world is grown using chemicals. 20% of the Cotton in the world is grown using integrated pest crop management GMOs (Genetically Modified Organisms). Defoliants are sprayed on the plants before harvesting. This causes all the leaves to fall off making the Cotton flower easier to pick. ? QUALITY IS NEVER AN ACCIDENT — IT IS ALWAYS THE RESULT OF HIGH INTENTION, OUR VALUES, OUR GOALS, OUR PASSION. SINCERE EFFORT, INTELLIGENT DIRECTION AND SKILLFUL EXECUTION. A Passion For Quality Built on over 40 years of family experience in design and responsible environmental practice, we are devoted to the perfect fit, the finest details, with knowledge and passion for quality. Through the use of Organic materials, IT being REPRESENTS THE WISEWeCHOICE OF MANY we ensure the well of Cotton farmers and their families. Respect all life. This year we will save the environmentALTERNATIVES. from 30-40,000 L of chemicals and pesticides in making more than 200.000 pieces of garments using Organic and sustainable materials. FIND THE OWL! Our Owl Logo is hidden someplace on every page of this catalog. See if you can find him. As a bonus, there is also one additional Owl hidden someplace between the covers. Find all 15! PS. The logos at the top of the page, on the garments and the Owl on the hangtags don’t count! 12 Never Going Away Strategy Through the purchase of our garments you help fulfil our strategy of supporting Organic and sustainable principles. A. FOSTER You are part of a positive circle that— will WILLIAM help change the world. Thank you for helping us to fulfill our promise! Gain Knowledge, Take Action, Earn Respect. 13