Contents - The Chef In You
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02_557343_ftoc.qxp 6/28/06 3:03 PM Page vi List of Recipes Introduction PART ONE: viii xv The Culinary Professional 1 Introduction to the Profession 2 Menus and Recipes 3 11 3 The Basics of Nutrition and Food Science 4 Food and Kitchen Safety PART TWO: Contents 27 World Cuisines 5 The Americas 6 Asia 19 37 53 7 Europe 103 Tools and Ingredients in the Professional Kitchen PART THREE: 8 Equipment Identification 147 9 Meat, Poultry, and Game Identification 10 Fish and Shellfish Identification 171 199 11 Fruit, Vegetable, and Fresh Herb Identification 225 12 Dairy and Egg Purchasing and Identification 273 13 Dry Goods Identification PART FOUR: 291 Stocks, Sauces, and Soups 14 Mise en Place for Stocks, Sauces, and Soups 329 15 Stocks 343 16 Sauces 355 17 Soups 389 02_557343_ftoc.qxp 6/28/06 3:03 PM Page vii Breakfast and Garde Manger PART SEVEN: 29 Cooking Eggs 879 30 Salad Dressings and Salads 31 Sandwiches 911 965 32 Hors d’Oeuvre and Appetizers 979 33 Charcuterie and Garde Manger 1023 PART EIGHT: Baking and Pastry 34 Baking Mise en Place 35 Yeast Breads 1047 1063 36 Pastry Doughs and Batters 1083 37 Custards, Creams, and Mousses 1125 38 Fillings, Frostings, and Dessert Sauces Appendix 1165 Glossary 1170 Readings and Resources Recipe Index Subject Index PART FIVE: Meats, Poultry, Fish, and Shellfish 18 Mise en Place for Meats, Poultry, and Fish 453 19 Fabricating Meats, Poultry, and Fish 469 20 Grilling and Broiling, Roasting and Baking 507 21 Sautéing, Pan Frying, and Deep Frying 22 Steaming and Submersion Cooking 23 Braising and Stewing 561 601 633 Vegetables, Potatoes, Grains and Legumes, and Pasta and Dumplings PART SIX: 24 Mise en Place for Vegetables and Fresh Herbs 679 25 Cooking Vegetables 26 Cooking Potatoes 707 767 27 Cooking Grains and Legumes 28 Cooking Pasta and Dumplings 805 843 1197 1207 1190 1141 02_557343_ftoc.qxp 6/28/06 3:03 PM Page viii Recipes CHAPTER FIFTEEN Mousseline Sauce 386 Conch Chowder 433 Stocks Maltaise Sauce 386 Corn Chowder 434 Béarnaise Sauce 386 Pacific Seafood Chowder 434 Mint Sauce (Paloise Sauce) 387 Manhattan-Style Clam Chowder 436 Choron Sauce 387 Purée of Lentil Soup 436 Buerre Blanc 387 Purée of Split Pea Soup 437 Red Pepper Coulis 387 Purée of Yellow Split Pea Soup 437 Maître d’Hôtel Butter 388 Tarragon Butter 388 Caribbean-Style Purée of Black Bean Soup 437 Pimiento Butter 388 Senate Bean Soup 438 Green Onion Butter 388 Potage Garbure 438 Dill Butter 388 Vichyssoise 439 Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano Butter 388 Shrimp Bisque 439 Basil Butter 388 Wisconsin Cheddar Cheese and Beer Soup 440 Chicken Stock 351 White Veal Stock 351 White Beef Stock 351 Brown Veal Stock 352 Brown Game Stock (Jus de Gibier) 352 Estouffade 352 Brown Lamb Stock 352 Brown Pork Stock 352 Brown Chicken Stock 352 0Brown Duck Stock 352 Fish Fumet 353 Fish Stock 353 Shellfish Stock 353 Vegetable Stock 353 Pesto 388 Chicken and Shrimp Gumbo 441 Roasted Vegetable Stock 353 Court Bouillon 354 CHAPTER SEVENTEEN Gazpacho Andaluz (Andalucian Gazpacho) 442 Poultry and Meat Stock (Brodo) 354 Soups Ham Bone and Collard Greens Soup 442 Chicken Broth 426 Chinese Hot and Sour Soup (Suan La Tang) 443 Dashi 354 Amish Corn and Chicken Soup 426 CHAPTER SIXTEEN Beef Broth 426 Sauces Veal Broth 426 Jus de Veau Lié 382 Jus de Volaille Lié 382 Jus de Canard Lié 382 Jus d’Agneau Lié 382 Jus de Gibier Lié 382 Espagnole Sauce 382 Demi-Glace 383 Chicken Velouté 383 Suprême Sauce 383 Ordinary Velouté 383 Fish Velouté 383 Ham or Smoked Pork Broth 426 Lamb Broth 426 Spicy Beef Soup (Yukkaejang) 443 Miso Soup 444 Thai Chicken Soup with Coconut Milk and Galangal 446 Turkey or Game Broth 426 Thai Hot and Sour Soup (Tom Yum Kung) 446 Fish Broth 426 Wonton Soup 447 Shellfish Broth 426 Vegetable Broth 426 Vegetable Soup Emilia Romagna Style (Minestrone alla Emiliana) 449 Chicken Rice Soup (Canja) 426 Minestrone 449 Beef Consommé 429 Tuscan White Bean and Escarole Soup 450 Chicken Consommé Royale 429 Royale Custard 429 Cream of Broccoli Soup 430 Shrimp Velouté 383 Cream of Asparagus (Crème Argenteuil) 430 Vegetable Velouté 383 Cream of Lettuce (Crème Choisy) 430 Béchamel Sauce 384 Cream of Celery (Crème Celéri) 430 Cheddar Cheese Sauce 384 Cream of Tomato Soup 430 Garam Masala 462 Mornay Sauce 384 Cream of Tomato Soup with Rice 430 Chinese Five-Spice Powder 462 Cream Sauce 384 Tortilla Soup 432 Barbecue Spice Mix 462 Tomato Sauce 384 Onion Soup 432 Chili Powder 463 Tomato Coulis 385 White Onion Soup 432 Curry Powder 463 Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu Bolognese) 385 Onion Soup Gratinée 432 Quatre Épices 463 New England-Style Clam Chowder 433 Fines Herbes 463 Hollandaise Sauce 386 viii Lobster Bisque (Bisque de Homard) 440 RECIPES CHAPTER EIGHTEEN Mise en Place for Meats, Poultry, and Fish Red Curry Paste 464 02_557343_ftoc.qxp 6/28/06 3:03 PM Page ix Green Curry Paste 464 Grilled Chicken Breasts with Fennel 534 Roast Duckling with Sauce Bigarade 558 Yellow Curry Paste 465 Grilled Paillards of Chicken with Tarragon Butter 535 Roast Turkey with Pan Gravy and Chestnut Stuffing 559 Barbecued Chicken Breast with Black Bean Sauce 535 Chestnut Stuffing 560 Asian-Style Marinade 466 Barbecue Marinade 466 Black Bean Sauce 536 Fish Marinade 466 Brazilian Mixed Grill 536 Red Wine Game Marinade 466 Hot Pepper Sauce (Molho Apimentado) 538 Seasoning Mix for Spit-Roasted Meats and Poultry 465 Rosemary and Gin Marinade for Game Meats 467 Lamb Marinade 467 Latin Citrus Marinade (Mojo) 468 Red Wine Marinade for Grilled Meats 468 Teriyaki Marinade 468 Jerked Game Hens 538 Fillet of Mahi Mahi with Pineapple Jicama Salsa 539 Pineapple Jicama Salsa 539 Broiled Bluefish à l’Anglaise with Maître d’Hôtel Butter 540 Salmon Fillet with Smoked Salmon and Horseradish Crust 560 C H A P T E R T W E N T Y- O N E Sautéing, Pan Frying, and Deep Frying Sautéeing Sautéed Chicken with Fines Herbes Sauce 573 Fines Herbes Sauce 573 Broiled Stuffed Lobster 540 Chicken Provençal 574 Roasting and Baking Beef Tournedos Provençal 574 CHAPTER T WENT Y Fish Kebabs 542 Veal Scaloppine Marsala 575 Grilling and Broiling, Roasting and Baking Mint and Yogurt Chutney 542 Marsala Sauce 575 Standing Rib Roast au Jus 543 Pork Scaloppine with Tomato Sauce 575 Beef Wellington 543 Swiss-Style Shredded Veal 577 Madeira Sauce 544 Noisettes of Pork with Green Peppercorns and Pineapple 577 Grilling and Broiling Grilled or Broiled Sirloin Steak with Mushroom Sauce 521 Corned Beef Hash 544 Grilled or Broiled Sirloin Steak with Maitre d’Hotel Butter 521 Veal Shoulder Poêlé 545 Pork Roast with Jus Lié 545 Pork Medallions with Warm Cabbage Salad 578 Mushroom Sauce 521 Baked Stuffed Pork Chops 546 Noisettes of Pork with Red Onion Grilled or Broiled Sirloin with Marchand de Vin Sauce 522 Cantonese Roast Pork (CHAR Sieu) 546 Confit 578 Guava-Glazed Pork Ribs 547 Warm Cabbage Salad 578 Marchand de Vin Sauce 522 Guava Barbecue Sauce 547 Barbecued Steak with Herb Crust 523 Carolina Barbecue 549 Sautéed Medallions of Pork with Winter Fruit Sauce 580 Skewered Beef and Scallions 523 North Carolina Piedmont Sauce 549 Winter Fruit Sauce 580 Beef Teriyaki 525 Barbecue Sauce (North Carolina Western Sauce) 549 Pork Cutlet with Sauce Robert 581 Mustard Barbecue Sauce (North Carolina Eastern Low Country Sauce) 550 Sauce Charcuterie 581 Grilled Rib Eye Steak 525 Pork and Veal Skewers (Raznijici) 526 Broiled Lamb Kebabs with Pimiento Butter 526 Dill Sauce 526 Lacquer-Roasted Pork Ribs (Kao Paigu) 550 Sauce Robert 581 Ancho-Crusted Salmon with Yellow Mole 583 Yellow Mole 583 Grilled (or Broiled) Pork Chops with Sherry Vinegar Sauce 527 Roast Rack of Lamb Persillé 551 Red Snapper with Grapefruit Salsa 584 Persillade 551 Trout Amandine 584 Sherry Vinegar Sauce 527 Vatapa 585 Grilled Smoked Iowa Pork Chops 529 Roasted Shoulder of Lamb and Couscous (Mechoui) 552 Apple Cider Sauce 529 Roast Leg of Lamb Boulangère 554 Bibimbap 586 Caramelized Apples 530 Roasted Leg of Lamb with Haricots Blancs (Gigots à la Bretonne) 554 Stir-Fried Squid with Thai Basil 587 Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary, Roasted Artichokes, and Cipollini Onions 530 Sautéed Trout à la Meunière 586 Roast Leg of Lamb with Mint Sauce 555 Breast of Chicken with Duxelles Stuffing and Suprême Sauce 587 Salt Herbs 555 Pan Frying Pakistani-Style Lamb Patties 531 Roast Chicken with Pan Gravy 556 Buttermilk Fried Chicken 589 Indian Grilled Lamb with Fresh Mango Chutney 533 Chicken Legs with Duxelles Stuffing 556 Country Gravy 589 Pan-Smoked Chicken 557 Fresh Mango Chutney 533 Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets 590 Breast of Rock Cornish Game Hen with Mushroom Forcemeat 557 Weiner Schnitzel 590 Grilled or Broiled Chicken Breasts with Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano Butter 534 Mushroom Forcemeat 558 Pan-Fried Breaded Pork Cutlet 590 RECIPES ix 02_557343_ftoc.qxp 6/28/06 3:03 PM Page x Veal Cordon Bleu 590 Corned Beef with Winter Vegetables 631 Irish Stew 671 Veal Piccata with Milanese Sauce (Piccata di Vitello alla Milanese) 591 Boiled Beef with Spätzle and Potatoes (Gaisburger Marsch) 631 Chicken Tagine 672 Milanese Sauce 591 New England Boiled Dinner 632 Chicken and Prawn Ragout (Mar Fisherman’s Platter 592 Seafood Poached in a Saffron Broth with Fennel 632 i Muntanya) 675 Rémoulade Sauce 592 Old-Fashioned Salt Cod Cakes 593 Pan-Fried Brook Trout with Bacon 595 Shrimp Tempura 595 Cioppino 676 Garlic-Flavored Croutons 676 C H A P T E R T W E N T Y-T H R E E Braising and Stewing C H A P T E R T W E N T Y- F I V E Deep Frying Braised Oxtails 644 Cooking Vegetables Crispy Tangerine-Flavored Chicken 596 Deep-Fried Onions 644 Sweet Garlic Sauce 596 Braised Short Ribs 645 Shrimp in Achiote Sauce, Yucatan Style 598 Korean Braised Short Ribs (Kalbi Jjim) 646 Flounder à l’Orly 598 Beef Rouladen in Burgundy Sauce 648 Beer Batter 599 Rouladen Stuffing 648 Hanoi Fried Fish with Dill (Cha Ca Thang Long) 599 Yankee Pot Roast 649 Fried Fish Cakes 600 Beef Stew 651 C H A P T E R T W E N T Y-T W O Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in Meat Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni) 653 Tempura Dipping Sauce 595 Steaming and Submersion Cooking New England Shore Dinner 617 Bass and Scallops en Papillote 617 Poached Trout Paupiettes with Vin Blanc Sauce 618 Sauerbraten 650 Duck Confit 657 Pork in a Green Curry Sauce 658 Veal Blanquette 660 Poached Sole Paupiettes Veronique 622 Beef Goulash 661 Royal Glaçage 623 Osso Buco Milanese 662 Poached Sea Bass with Clams, Bacon, and Peppers 623 Gremolata 662 Boston Scrod with Cream, Capers, and Tomatoes 624 Braised Lamb Shanks 666 RECIPES Pan-Steamed Haricots Verts 740 Pecan Carrots 740 Gingered Snow Peas and Yellow Squash 740 Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with SoySesame Glaze 743 Mushroom Sausage 661 Beef Noodle Soup (Pho Bo) 628 Pan-Steamed Carrots 740 New Mexican Green Chile Stew 657 Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne and Vin Blanc Sauce 622 Poached Salmon with Dill Butter 627 Creamed Corn 739 Grilled Vegetables Provençal Style 743 Braised Veal Breast with Mushroom Sausage 660 Udon Noodle Pot 627 Glazed Beets 739 Cassoulet 656 Trout and Saffron Mousseline 621 Poule au Pot (Chicken with Vegetables) 626 Broccoli and Toasted Garlic 737 Glazed Carrots 741 Székely Goulash (Székely Gulyás) 659 Farmhouse Chicken with Angel Biscuits 626 Steamed Broccoli 737 Homemade Sauerkraut 654 Poached Trout Paupiettes with Saffron 621 Poached Chicken Breast with Tarragon Sauce 625 Boiled Edamame 737 Green Beans with Walnuts 741 Pork Vindaloo 658 Pescada à la Veracruzana 624 Boiled Carrots 737 Choucroute 654 Fillet of Snapper en Papillote 618 Sole Mousseline 621 x Preserved Lemons 672 Pork Goulash 661 Polish Stuffed Cabbage 665 Portuguese Stuffed Leg of Lamb 667 Herbed Forcemeat Stuffing 667 Lamb Navarin 668 Lamb Khorma 668 Chicken Fricassee 669 Veal Fricassee 669 Curried Goat with Green Papaya Salsa 670 Couscous with Lamb and Chicken Stew 670 Marinated Grilled Vegetables 743 Butternut Squash Purée 744 Spaghetti Squash 744 Baked Acorn Squash with CranberryOrange Compote 746 Cranberry-Orange Compote 746 Oven-Roasted Tomatoes 746 Marinated Roasted Peppers 749 Roasted Carrots 749 Shrimp-Stuffed Mirlitons 750 Eggplant Parmesan 750 Poblanos Rellenos 753 Summer Squash Salsa 753 Sautéed Arugula 754 Stir-Fried Shanghai Bok Choy (Qinchao Shanghai Baicai) 754 Summer Squash Noodles 756 Belgian Endive à la Meunière 756 Broccoli Rabe with Garlic and Hot Crushed Pepper (Cime di Broccoli con Aglio e Pepperoncino) 757 Garden Treasures 757 Jardiniére Vegetables 758 Vegetable Julienne 758 02_557343_ftoc.qxp 6/28/06 3:03 PM Page xi Macédoine of Vegetables 758 C H A P T E R T W E N T Y- S E V E N Congee 838 Mushrooms with Chiles and Garlic (Hongos con Guajillos y Ajo) 759 Cooking Grains and Legumes Basic Polenta 838 Beans from the Pot (Frijoles de Olla ) 819 Green Onion-Bulgur Pilaf 841 Frijoles à la Charra 819 Kasha with Spicy Maple Pecans 841 Black Bean Mash 819 Quinoa à la Jardinera 842 Spinach Pancakes 759 Pan-Fried Zucchini 760 Corn Fritters 760 Vegetable Tempura 761 Polenta with Parmesan 838 Boniato Fries 761 Black Beans with Peppers and Chorizo 821 Fried Plantains 763 Corona Beans (Fagioli all’Uccelletto) 821 Tostones 763 Ratatouille 763 Creamed Pinto Beans (Frijoles Maneados) 822 Cooking Pasta and Dumplings Braised Greens 764 Middle Eastern Chickpeas 822 Fresh Egg Pasta 855 Braised Fennel in Butter 764 Roman-Style Lima Beans 823 Whole Wheat Pasta 855 Braised Red Cabbage 765 Southwest White Bean Stew 823 Buckwheat Pasta 855 Braised Romaine 765 Stewed Black Beans 824 Spinach Pasta 855 Braised Sauerkraut 766 Falafel 824 Saffron Pasta 855 French-Style Peas 766 Red Beans and Boiled Rice 825 Citrus Pasta 855 Boiled White Beans 825 Curried Pasta 855 Vegetarian Chili 826 Herbed Pasta 855 Rice and Beans 828 Black Pepper Pasta 855 Rice Pilaf 828 Red Pepper Pasta 855 Tomato Pasta 855 Duchesse Potatoes 789 Short-Grain White Rice Pilaf (Valencia) 828 Whipped Potatoes 790 Converted White Rice Pilaf 828 Basic Boiled Pasta 855 Baked Potatoes with Deep-Fried Onions 790 Wild Rice Pilaf 829 Pasta alla Carbonara 856 Wheat Berry Pilaf 829 Roasted Tuscan-Style Potatoes 791 Pearl Barley Pilaf 829 Glazed Sweet Potatoes 791 Brown Rice Pilaf with Pecans and Green Onions 829 Orecchiette with Italian Sausage, Broccoli Rabe, and Parmesan Cheese 856 C H A P T E R T W E N T Y- S I X Cooking Potatoes Boiled Parsley Potatoes 789 Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Ginger 792 C H A P T E R T W E N T Y- E I G H T Pumpkin, Carrot, or Beet Pasta 855 Pad Thai 859 Potatoes au Gratin (Gratin Dauphinoise) 792 Short-Grain Brown Rice Pilaf 829 Stir-Fried Glass Noodles (Jap Chae) 860 Annatto Rice 829 Lasagna di Carnevale Napolitana 861 Lyonnaise Potatoes 793 Arroz Blanco 830 Couscous 861 Château Potatoes 793 Arroz Brasileiro 830 Delmonico Potatoes 794 Coconut Rice 830 Classic Bolognese Lasagna with Ragu and Béchamel (Lasagna al Forno) 863 Hash Brown Potatoes 794 Risotto 831 Gnocchi di Semolina Gratinati 863 Potato Galettes (Galette de Pommes de Terre Alsacienne) 797 Parmesan Risotto 831 Gnocchi Piedmontese 864 Wild Mushroom Risotto 831 Gnocchi di Ricotta 866 Green Pea Risotto (Risi e Bisi) 831 Spätzle 866 Risotto with Asparagus Tips 831 Bread Dumplings 868 Risotto alla Milanese 831 Biscuit Dumplings 868 Risotto with Mussels 832 Hush Puppies 869 Basic Boiled Rice 832 Steamed Dumplings (Shao-Mai) 870 Steamed Long-Grain Rice (Lo Han) 832 Pan-Fried Dumplings (Guo Tie) 872 Sushi Rice 833 Ginger-Soy Dipping Sauce 872 Souffléd Potatoes 803 Thai Sticky Rice with Mangos (Mamuang Kao Nieo) 833 Croquette Potatoes 804 Saffron Rice 834 Potato and Cheddar-Filled Pierogi with Caramelized Onions, Beurre Noisette, and Sage 875 Lorette Potatoes 804 Fried Rice with Chinese Sausage 834 Potato Pancakes 797 Rösti Potatoes 798 Stuffed Rösti Potatoes 798 Potatoes Anna 800 Macaire Potatoes 800 French-Fried Potatoes 801 Berny Potatoes 801 Sweet Potato Chips 803 Paella Valenciana 837 Dim Sum 876 Potstickers 876 Rice Croquettes 837 RECIPES xi 02_557343_ftoc.qxp 6/28/06 3:03 PM Page xii C H A P T E R T W E N T Y- N I N E Western Omelet 904 Tartar Sauce 936 Cooking Eggs Spanish Omelet 904 Green Mayonnaise 936 Jelly Omelet 904 Aïoli 936 Farmer-Style Omelet 905 Blue Cheese Dressing 937 Souffléd Cheddar Omelet 905 Creamy Black Peppercorn Dressing 937 Spinach Soufflé 906 Japanese Salad Dressing 938 Savory Cheese Soufflé 906 Ranch-Style Dressing 938 Artichoke Soufflé 907 Thousand Island Dressing 939 Warm Goat Cheese Custard 907 Basil Oil 939 Quiche Lorraine 909 Orange Oil 939 Spinach Quiche 909 Green Onion Oil 939 Tomato and Leek Quiche 909 Paprika Oil 940 Caramelized Onion Quiche 909 Mixed Green Salad 940 Smoked Salmon and Dill Quiche 909 Table Salad 940 Broccoli and Cheddar Cheese Quiche 909 Caesar Salad 940 Hard-Cooked Eggs 897 Coddled Eggs 897 Soft-Cooked Eggs 897 Medium-Cooked Eggs 897 Pickled Eggs 897 Red Pickled Eggs 897 Deviled Eggs 899 Deviled Eggs with Tomato 899 Deviled Eggs with Greens 899 Deviled Eggs with Vegetables 899 Deviled Eggs with Peppers 899 Deviled Eggs with Cheese 899 Deviled Eggs with Fish or Shellfish 899 Poached Eggs 900 Eggs Benedict 900 French Toast 910 Chef’s Salad 941 Eggs Florentine 900 Greek Salad 942 Poached Eggs American Style 900 CHAPTER THIRT Y Poached Eggs with Chicken Liver Chasseur 900 Salad Dressings and Salads Endive Salad with Roquefort and Walnuts (Salade de Roquefort, Noix, et Endives) 942 Red Wine Vinaigrette 929 Cobb Salad 945 White Wine Vinaigrette 929 Taco Salad 945 Mustard-Herb Vinaigrette 929 Taco Sauce 946 Roasted Garlic and Mustard Vinaigrette 929 Wilted Spinach Salad with Warm Bacon Vinaigrette 946 Lemon-Garlic Vinaigrette 929 Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Greens with Robiola Cheese and Walnuts (Fungetti e Barbe con Cambozola e Noci) 949 Poached Eggs with Smoked Salmon 900 Poached Eggs Mornay 902 Poached Eggs Farmer Style 902 Poached Eggs with Mushrooms 902 Poached Eggs Massena 902 Poached Eggs on Hash 902 Fried Eggs 902 Eggs over Easy, Medium, or Hard 902 Scrambled Eggs 903 Scrambled Egg Whites 903 Scrambled Eggs with Cheese 903 Scrambled Eggs Swedish Style 903 Scrambled Eggs Hunter Style 903 Scrambled Eggs with Bratwurst 903 Scrambled Eggs Gratiné 903 Scrambled Eggs Greek Style 903 Plain Rolled Omelet 904 xii Wedge of Iceberg with Thousand Island Dressing 941 Lemon-Parsley Vinaigrette 929 Almond-Fig Vinaigrette 929 Apple Cider Vinaigrette 930 Balsamic Vinaigrette 930 Sherried Watercress and Apple Salad 950 Curry Vinaigrette 931 Baby Spinach, Avocado, and Grapefruit Salad 950 Honey-Poppy Seed-Citrus Dressing 931 Celeriac and Tart Apple Salad 950 Fire-Roasted Tomato Vinaigrette 932 Waldorf Salad 951 Guava-Curry Vinaigrette 932 Chayote Salad with Oranges (Salada de Xuxu) 951 Chipotle-Sherry Vinaigrette 930 Herb and Truffle Vinaigrette 933 Summer Melon Salad with Prosciutto 952 Plain Rolled Egg White Omelet 904 Peanut Oil and Malt Vinegar Salad Dressing 933 Cheese Omelet 904 Pesto Vinaigrette 933 Cheese and Vegetable Omelet 904 Vinaigrette Gourmande 934 Meat and Cheese Omelet 904 Walnut Oil and Red Wine Vinaigrette 934 Classic Polish Cucumber Salad (Mizeria Klasyczna) 952 Herb Omelet 904 Green Goddess Dressing 934 Coleslaw 953 Tomato Omelet 904 Catalina French Dressing 934 Moroccan Carrot Salad 953 Omelet Florentine 904 Peanut Dressing 935 Corn and Jicama Salad 953 Omelet Marcel 904 Caesar-Style Dressing 935 Thai-Style Green Papaya Salad 954 Omelet Opera 904 Cucumber Dressing 935 Jicama Salad 954 Seafood Omelet 904 Mayonnaise 936 Shellfish Omelet 904 Anchovy-Caper Mayonnaise 936 Cucumber and Wakame Salad (Sunonomo) 955 RECIPES Onion and Cucumber Salad (Kachumber) 952 02_557343_ftoc.qxp 6/28/06 3:03 PM Page xiii Sliced Daikon Salad (Mu Chae) 955 C H A P T E R T H I R T Y-T W O Oysters Diamond Jim Brady 1008 Cucumber Salad 956 Cucumber-Yogurt Salad (Cacik) 956 Hors d’Oeuvre and Appetizers Mussels with White Wine and Shallots (Moules à la Marinière) 1008 Hue-Style Chicken Salad 956 Smoked Salmon Mousse 987 Crispy Shallots 957 Red Pepper Mousse in Endive 987 Chicken Salad 957 Blue Cheese Mousse 987 Tuna Salad 957 Tuna and Bean Salad (Insalata di Tonno e Fagioli) 1010 Goat Cheese Mousse 987 Egg Salad 958 Stuffed Shrimp 1011 Pico de Gallo 988 Ham Salad 958 Samosas 1011 Salsa Verde 988 Shrimp Salad 958 Spinach Crêpes with Seafood 1012 Papaya Black Bean Salsa 989 Pasta Salad with Pesto Vinaigrette 958 Grapefruit Salsa 989 Baby Squid in Black Ink Sauce (Txipirones Saltsa Beltzean)) 1013 European-Style Potato Salad 959 Green Papaya Salsa 989 Potato Salad 959 Cocktail Sauce 990 Panzanella 961 Cumberland Sauce 990 Eastern Mediterranean Bread Salad (Fattoush) 961 Asian Dipping Sauce 990 Hot Smoked Bluefish with Horseradish Cream 1010 Octopus “Fairground Style” (Pulpo a Feira) 1013 Grilled Shrimp Paste on Sugarcane (Chao Tom) 1014 Vietnamese Dipping Sauce 991 Mushroom Strudel with Goat Cheese 1014 Spring Roll Dipping Sauce 991 Black Bean Cakes 1015 Yogurt Cucumber Sauce 991 Potato Omelet (Tortilla Española) 1016 Green Lentil Salad (Salade des Lentilles du Puy) 962 Guacamole 992 Spring Rolls 1016 Hummus bi Tahini 992 California Rolls 1017 Mixed Bean Salad 963 Baba Ghanoush 993 Sushi Rice 1017 Warm Black-Eyed Pea Salad 963 Muhammara 993 Vietnamese Salad Rolls 1018 Curried Rice Salad 964 Harissa 994 Beef Carpaccio 1018 Seafood Ravigote 964 Tapenade 994 Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce 1019 Z’hug 994 Vitello Tonnato 1020 Wasabi 995 Lobster Salad with Beets, Mangos, Avocados, and Orange Oil 1020 Tomato and Mozzarella Salad 962 Roasted Peppers (Peperoni Arrostiti) 962 C H A P T E R T H I R T Y- O N E Sandwiches Spicy Mustard 995 Cranberry Relish 995 CIA Club 971 Pickle Relish 996 Pork Pepper Pie (Empanada Gallega de Cerdo) 1021 Philly Hoagie 971 Spicy Mango Chutney 996 Paper-Wrapped Chicken 1021 Chicken Burger 972 Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade 996 Barbecued Beef 972 Curried Onion Relish 997 Corn Crêpes with Asparagus Tips and Smoked Salmon 1022 Open-Faced Turkey Sandwich with Sweet and Sour Onions 973 Pickled Ginger 997 Croque Monsieur 973 Pineapple Raita 997 Eggplant and Prosciutto Panini 975 Tortilla Chips 998 Marinated Eggplant Filling 975 Marinated Mackerel in White Wine 998 Three Cheese Melt 975 Seviche of Scallops 999 Reuben Sandwich 976 Carpaccio of Salmon 999 Cucumber Sandwich with Herbed Cream Cheese 976 Smoked Salmon Platter 999 Watercress Sandwich with Herb Mayonnaise 977 Apple Sandwich with Curry Mayonnaise 978 Gorgonzola and Pear Sandwich 978 Tomato Sandwich with Oregano Sour Cream 978 Pickled Red Onions 997 Tuna Carpaccio (Crudo di Tonno alla Battuta) 1000 Clams Casino 1003 Poached Scallops with Tarragon Vinaigrette 1003 C H A P T E R T H I R T Y-T H R E E Charcuterie and Garde Manger Seafood and Salmon Terrine 1030 Flounder Mousseline 1030 Pâté Grand-Mére 1030 Country-Style Terrine (Pâté de Campagne) 1031 Pâté Maison 1031 Chicken and Crayfish Terrine 1033 Shellfish Essence 1033 Coconut Macadamia Shrimp 1004 Chicken Galantine 1034 Chesapeake-Style Crab Cakes 1004 Pork Tenderloin Roulade 1034 Broiled Shrimp with Garlic 1007 Meat Brine 1036 Pescado Frito 1007 Venison Terrine 1036 RECIPES xiii 02_557343_ftoc.qxp 6/28/06 3:03 PM Page xiv Duck Terrine with Pistachios and Dried Cherries 1036 C H A P T E R T H I R T Y- S I X C H A P T E R T H I R T Y- S E V E N Pastry Doughs and Batters Custards, Creams, and Mousses Basic Pie Dough (3-2-1) 1104 Vanilla Sauce 1133 Buttermilk Biscuits 1104 Pastry Cream 1133 Cream Scones 1106 Chocolate Pastry Cream 1133 Raisin Scones 1106 Pastry Cream for Soufflés 1133 Ham and Cheddar Scones 1106 Crème Brûlée 1134 Buttermilk Pancakes 1106 Crème Caramel 1134 Basic Waffles 1106 Diplomat Cream 1136 Pâté Spice 1044 Banana Pancakes 1106 Vanilla Ice Cream 1136 Gravlax 1044 Chocolate Chip Pancakes 1107 Chocolate Ice Cream 1136 Blueberry Pancakes 1107 Coffee Ice Cream 1136 Oatmeal Pancakes 1107 Raspberry Ice Cream 1136 C H A P T E R T H I R T Y- F O U R Irish Soda Bread 1107 Raspberry Mousse 1139 Baking Mise en Place Johnny Cakes 1107 Chocolate Mousse 1139 Egg Wash 1061 Fried Bread (Puri) 1108 Chocolate Soufflé 1140 Simple Syrup 1061 Crêpes Suzette 1108 Bread and Butter Pudding 1140 Coffee Simple Syrup 1061 Dessert Crêpes 1109 Liqueur-Flavored Simple Syrup 1061 Puff Pastry Dough 1110 Common Meringue 1062 Blitz Puff Pastry Dough 1110 Swiss Meringue 1062 Basic Muffin Recipe 1111 Italian Meringue 1062 Cranberry-Orange Muffins 1111 Fillings, Frostings, and Dessert Sauces Chantilly Cream/Whipped Cream for Garnish 1062 Blueberry Muffins 1111 Italian Buttercream 1156 Bran Muffins 1111 Coffee Buttercream 1156 Corn Muffins 1112 Mocha Buttercream 1156 Corn Bread 1112 Chocolate Buttercream 1156 Pumpkin Bread 1112 Apple Pie 1156 Banana-Nut Bread 1114 Cherry Pie 1157 Basic Lean Dough 1069 Pound Cake 1114 Pecan Pie 1157 Baguettes 1069 Devil’s Food Cake 1115 Cranberry Pecan Pie 1157 Boules 1070 Angel Food Cake 1115 Lemon Meringue Pie 1159 Focaccia 1070 Vanilla Sponge Cake 1116 Pumpkin Pie 1159 Hard Rolls 1072 Chocolate Sponge Cake 1116 Frangipane Filling 1159 Ciabatta 1072 Cheesecake 1116 Pecan Diamonds 1160 Pita Bread 1073 Graham Cracker Crust 1117 Hard Ganache 1160 Semolina Pizza Crust 1073 Chocolate XS Cake 1117 Chocolate Sauce 1160 Margherita Pizza 1073 Pâte à Choux 1117 Classic Caramel Sauce 1161 Spinach Pizza 1073 Gougres (Gruyère Cheese Puffs) 1117 Raspberry Coulis 1161 Naan Bread 1075 Profiteroles 1119 Sabayon 1161 Cottage Dill Rolls 1075 Ice Cream-Filled Profiteroles 1119 Zabaglione 1161 Brioche Loaf 1076 Éclairs 1119 Apple Butter 1162 Brioche à Tête 1076 Chocolate Éclairs 1119 Apricot Glaze 1162 Raisin Bread with Cinnamon Swirl 1079 1-2-3 Cookie Dough 1120 Pear Frangipane Tartlets 1162 Challah (3-Braid) 1080 Almond-Anise Biscotti 1120 Poached Pears 1164 Soft Dinner Rolls 1080 Chocolate Chunk Cookies 1122 Fruit Salsa 1164 Sweet Dough 1081 Cherry-Chocolate Chunk Cookies 1122 Dried Cherry Sauce 1164 Cinnamon Raisin Buns 1081 Mudslide Cookies 1122 Sticky Buns 1082 Oatmeal-Raisin Cookies 1123 Foie Gras Terrine 1037 Foie Gras Roulade 1037 Chicken Liver Pâté 1037 St Andrew’s Vegetable Terrine 1038 Pâté Dough 1041 Saffron Pâté Dough 1041 Seafood Pâté en Croûte 1042 Vegetable Terrine with Goat Cheese 1043 C H A P T E R T H I R T Y- F I V E Yeast Breads Nut Tuile Cookies 1123 Fudge Brownies 1124 xiv RECIPES C H A P T E R T H I R T Y- E I G H T 23_557343_ch20.qxp 6/28/06 4:28 PM Page 508 Grilling and Broiling Grilling and broiling are quick cooking techniques that are used for naturally tender, portion-sized or smaller pieces of meat, poultry, or fish. By contrast, roasting and baking require a longer cooking time and are frequently used with larger cuts of meat, whole birds, and dressed fish. Grilling cooks food with radiant heat from a source located below it. Some of the juices are actually reduced directly on the food while the rest drip away. Grilled foods have a slightly charred flavor, resulting from the juices and fats that are rendered as the food cooks, as well as from direct contact with the rods of the grill rack. Broiling is similar to grilling but uses a heat source located above the food rather than below. Frequently, delicate foods like lean white fish are brushed with butter or oil, put on a heated, oiled sizzler platter, and then placed on the rack below the heat source instead of directly on the rods. Tender portion-sized cuts of poultry, cuts of meat from the loin, rib, or top round areas, and fillets of such fatty fish as tuna and salmon are suited to grilling and broiling. Lean fish may also be grilled or broiled if they are coated with oil or an oil-based marinade. Some less tender cuts of meat such as hanger or flank steak may also be used if they are cut very thin. When preparing meat for grilling or broiling, pound meats and fish lightly to even their thickness if necessary. Meat should be trimmed of excess fat and all silverskin and gristle. All meat and fish should be cut to an even thickness. Some foods are cut into strips, chunks, or cubes and then threaded onto skewers. The food itself should be seasoned and in some cases lightly oiled. Different parts of the grill are hotter than others. Divide the grill into zones of varying heat intensity, including a very hot section for quickly searing foods and an area of moderate to low heat for slow cooking and holding foods. (If the grill is wood or charcoal fired, set aside an area for igniting the fuel, which is too hot and smoky over which to cook foods directly.) Zones may also be allocated for different types of foods, in order to prevent an undesirable transfer of flavors. Developing a system for placing foods on the grill or broiler, whether by food type or by range of doneness helps speed up work on the line. Special woods such as mesquite, hickory, or apple are frequently used to impart special flavors. Hardwood chips, herb stems, grapevine trimmings, and other aromatics can be soaked in cold water and then thrown on the grill fire to create aromatic smoke. The sauce that accompanies a grilled item is prepared separately. 508 PART 5 Meats, Poultry, Fish, and Shellfish 23_557343_ch20.qxp 6/28/06 4:28 PM Page 509 How to Grill or Broil A basic formula for a singleentrée-sized portion 1 portion-size cut of meat, poultry, or fish; 6 to 8 oz/170 to 227 g Seasonings, including salt and pepper or marinades, rubs, glazes, or barbecue sauce if desired Other accompaniments, including compound butters, brown sauces, vegetable coulis, or salsas 1. Brush the rods with a wire brush and then rub with a cloth dipped in vegetable oil to lubricate and clean them before preheating the grill. Metal skewers need to be cleaned and oiled before use; wooden skewers should be soaked in water to prevent them from charring too much or catching on fire. Sizzler plates, tongs, offset spatulas, flexible spatulas, and brushes to apply glazes, marinades, or barbecue sauces should be part of the grill station’s equipment mise en place, as well as all items necessary for service (heated plates, spoons, or ladles). Hand racks for delicate foods or those that might be awkward to turn easily should also be cleaned and oiled between uses to prevent meat skin from sticking and tearing. CHAPTER 20 Grilling and Broiling, Roasting and Baking 509 6/28/06 4:28 PM Page 510 How to Grill or Broil 23_557343_ch20.qxp 2. Let the food cook undisturbed on the first side before turning it over. This develops better fla- vor and also lets the food’s natural fats (if any) help release the food from the grill without tearing. Place the seasoned food on the preheated grill or broiler rods to start cooking and to mark it. It does make a difference which side of the food goes onto the grill first. The best-looking, or presentation, side always goes face down on the rods first; however, the presentation side should always be face up when broiling. When the food comes into contact with the heated rods, marks are charred onto the surface of the food. To mark foods with a crosshatch on a grill, gently work the spatula or tongs under the food and give it a quarter turn (90 degrees). Because many barbecue sauces contain sugar and burn easily, it is usually a good idea to partially cook the food before applying the sauce. That way, as the food finishes cooking, the sauce glazes and caramelizes lightly without burning. A single coat of sauce may be applied to each side of the food or, to build up a thicker, slightly crusty coat of sauce, the food may be brushed repeatedly with light coats of sauce. 510 PART 5 Meats, Poultry, Fish, and Shellfish 3. Remove the meat or fish when it is still slightly underdone, so it does not end up overcooked by the time it is served. Even thin pieces of meat or fish will retain some heat, allowing them to cook after they have been removed from the heat. Turn the food over and continue cooking to the desired doneness. Since most foods cooked by grilling or broiling are relatively thin and tender, they do not require much more cooking time once they have been turned over. Thicker cuts or those that must be cooked to a higher internal doneness may need to be moved to the cooler portion of the grill or broiler, so that they don’t develop a charred exterior. Or they may be removed from the grill or broiler altogether and finished in the oven. For banquets, foods can be quickly marked on the rods of a grill or broiler, just barely cooking the outer layers of the food. Then they can be laid out on racks over sheet pans and finished in the oven. This approach allows you to expand the potential output of the grill or broiler. For food safety reasons, exercise extreme care in chilling partially cooked food quickly if it is to be held for any length of time. 23_557343_ch20.qxp 6/28/06 4:28 PM Page 511 Options for Making the Perfect Grill or Broil To season the main ingredient, there are many options. Apply each one at the appropriate time, most typically before cooking. Spice rubs Marinades Brines: Use a nonpreserving light brine (5 gal/19.20 L water, 1 lb/454 g salt, 1 lb/ 454 g sugar, and any additional aromatics) Presalting: Massage the salt into the item before cooking to help to retain its moisture How to Grill or Broil Evaluate the quality of the finished grilled or broiled food. Properly prepared grilled and broiled foods have a distinctly smoky flavor, which is enhanced by a certain amount of charring and by the addition to the grill of hardwood or herb sprigs. This smoky flavor and aroma should not overpower the food’s natural flavor and the charring should not be so extensive that it gives the food a bitter or carbonized taste. Any marinades or glazes should support and not mask the food’s natural flavor. To add additional flavor, add items to the grill fire to create an aromatic smoke, such as: Hardwood chips Herb stems Grapevine trimmings Pan Grilling Pan grilling involves cooking foods on the stove over intense heat in a heavy cast-iron or other warp-resistant metal pan with a ridged bottom. The thick ridges in the bottom of the pan create marks similar to a grill and hold the food up and away from any juices or fat that might collect. It is important to consider, however, that pan grilling will not impart the same flavor as will traditional grilling. Grills and broilers must be well maintained and kept clean to produce a good-quality grilled or broiled entrée. Take the time to prepare the grill before, during, and after service. It is necessary to relubricate the rods throughout a service period, so keep a small container of oil and a cloth as part of the grill station mise en place. 511 23_557343_ch20.qxp 6/28/06 4:28 PM Page 528 Grilled Smoked Iowa Pork Chops with Potato Pancake (page 797), Braised Red Cabbage (page 765), Caramelized Apples, and Haricots Verts 23_557343_ch20.qxp 6/28/06 4:28 PM Page 529 Apple Cider Sauce Makes 32 fl oz/960 mL Makes 10 servings 8 oz/227 g pork, cut into 1-in/3-cm cubes 10 (about 8 oz/227 g) loin pork chops 1 tsp/5 g salt 1 tbsp/15 g salt H tsp/1 g ground black pepper 1H tsp/3 g ground black pepper 1 fl oz/30 mL vegetable oil 2 fl oz/60 mL vegetable oil, or as needed 4 oz/113 g medium-dice Mirepoix (page 333) 20 fl oz/600 mL Apple Cider Sauce (recipe follows) 16 fl oz/480 mL apple cider 10 servings Caramelized Apples (recipe follows) 1 fl oz/30 mL applejack brandy 2 lb 13 oz/1.28 kg Braised Red Cabbage (page 765) 3 thyme sprigs Recipes Grilled Smoked Iowa Pork Chops 5 black peppercorns, crushed Place 6 charcoal briquettes onto a rack over the direct flame of a burner until red hot. Place the coals into a sauté pan. Place a hotel pan of ice in a cold oven. 1. 1 bay leaf 1 gal/3.84 L Brown Veal Stock (page 352) Slurry (page 339), as needed Place the pork on a wire rack in the cold oven with the hotel pan of ice. Put the hot coals in the oven in another pan. Sprinkle wood chips over the coals. Close the oven door and smoke the pork for 10 to 15 minutes only. Do not oversmoke. 2. Season the pork with the salt and pepper. Heat the oil over medium-high heat in a large sauce pot, add the pork and cook until evenly browned on all sides. 1. Add the mirepoix to the pan and cook until caramelized. Deglaze with the cider and applejack. Reduce by half. 3. Remove the pork and refrigerate it until needed. Pour water over the coals until extinguished and dispose of them. 2. Preheat the grill to 400°F/204°C. Season the pork with salt and pepper and lightly brush with oil. Place the pork chops presentation-side down on the grill. Grill undisturbed for about 2 minutes. (Optional: Give each chop a quarter turn to achieve grill marks.) Turn the pork chops over and grill to an internal temperature of 145°F/63°C. 3. 4. Add the thyme, peppercorns, bay leaf, and stock. Bring to a simmer and continue to cook until it reaches a nappé consistency, skimming as necessary, 2 to 3 hours. Thicken with a slurry, if necessary. Strain and hold until service. 4. Heat the Apple Cider Sauce and Caramelized Apples and serve each chop with 4H oz/128 g Braised Red Cabbage, 2 fl oz/60 mL of the sauce, and 1 serving of the apples. 5. CHAPTER 20 Grilling and Broiling, Roasting and Baking 529
