Consumer Choices: Shopping for a T-Shirt Teacher Guide for Junior/Intermediate Levels Situation When purchasing T-shirts and other clothing garments, it is important for young people to make informed decisions regarding the quality of the piece, the cost, materials included in the manufacture of the garment and the overall value. There are several options available in almost all aspects of garment shopping and it could be overwhelming for students at first. This guide will help youth make informed decisions about the garments they buy and help them to compare costs and the advantages and disadvantages of all options so that they can make the best decision. Goal Enable youth to make informed decisions regarding how they purchase T-shirts, as well as be able to defend their decision given a particular consumer situation. Materials Needed Consumer Choices Member Guide for each participant Teacher’s Guide with background information and suggested activities (includes worksheets). Samples collected with respect to T-shirt advertising, hang tags, and articles of clothing for demonstrations. Calculators and writing utensils for the students. (optional) Objectives: For program participants to: Consider and identify fabric characteristics when buying and caring for T-shirts Read and use clothing labels as a guide when shopping Recognize quality workmanship in a garment Calculate cost-per-wear when necessary for clothing decisions Key Concepts to Teach Price is not always an indication of the quality of a garment. A good quality garment must start with good quality fabric. Fiber content of apparel is a good prediction of performance and care. Garment construction should be compatible with the fabric, garment design, intended use and price. Reading labels is a necessary practice in wise comparison-shopping and consumer decisions. Labels provide the source of fiber content, care information, and manufacturing information necessary for consumer rights and responsibilities. There are a variety of retail options for acquiring clothing for comparison pricing. Cost-per-wear is a good factor to determine if the garment choice is a good one for the intended use. Preparation Read the student’s guide to Shopping for T-shirts. Collect samples: T-shirt advertisements, catalog descriptions, internet based samples, and hang tags from purchased T-shirts if possible. Look for samples of varying qualities of T-shirts from your own family’s wardrobe to illustrate principles and concepts. Comparison shop to determine current styles, trends, and prices of T-shirts from various stores as you prepare to teach lesson activities. Introduction T-shirts are a very popular clothing item for all ages. They are known for their comfort and easy care. They come in a variety of styles – different sleeves, hem, collars, and neckline treatments. They can be worn in many different ways – under or over a shirt or blouse, with shorts, pants or skirts, under a jacket, as a beach cover-up or even as a nightshirt. They may be plain, printed, striped, embroidered or painted. You can purchase them almost anywhere – grocery store, variety store, specialty shop or a department store at the mall. They are known as a classic, which means they are always in style. They are considered an essential wardrobe item for the summer months. Be creative when you wear them. How to Select Quality Clothing Price is not always an indication of the quality of a garment. You can find good quality fabrics and construction at all price levels. Learning how to determine a good quality garment will help you get your money’s worth. A good quality garment must start with a quality fabric. Often you can upgrade the quality of a garment by changing buttons or restitching some seams. But you cannot upgrade the fabric. Judging the quality of fabric is often difficult. Let’s begin by learning about the fiber content. Fiber Content Fiber content of fabric used in garment construction gives you a good prediction of its performance and care. It is something you should always look for in purchasing clothing. Traditionally, t-shirts come in mainly two fiber contents – 100% cotton or cotton/polyester blends. However, recently, there have been other popular blends of cotton with nylon or spandex. Cotton is known for its absorbency and comfort. It becomes softer as it is worn and washed. Some t-shirts are combed cotton, which are smoother and softer. Mercerized cotton ones have a chemical finish to make the cotton stronger, more silky to touch and easier to dye. Cotton lacks resiliency and elasticity thus the blend with other fibers. Polyester adds stability (reduces shrinkage and stretching out of shape), strength and shortens drying time. The most common blends are of cotton and polyester, either 65% cotton and 35% polyester or 50% cotton and 50% polyester. At least 25% of polyester is needed in the blend for shape retention. Nylon is used occasionally to add strength and give a more luxurious feel. Spandex has become a recent trend for t-shirt fiber blends. This fiber provides a high degree of stretch and excellent recovery. It is lightweight and resistant to body oils, other desirable features for t-shirts. It is, however, affected by chlorine bleach thus the care warnings associated with this fiber content. Fabric Construction and Finishes Durability and appearance of a garment can also depend on the construction of the fabric. T-shirts are made of knit construction. Plain flat knit is the most common. It has a smooth arrangement of vertical lines on the right side and horizontal ridges on the wrong side. It tends to stretch more in the width than in the length. (Shown below). Rib knit is the same on both sides. It is heavier than plain knit. It has better shape retention. Because of the type it is very stretchy. It is used sometimes for the neck and armhole banding finish. (Rib knit sweater shown below is an enlargement of what the Tshirt looks like up close.) Regardless of type of knit, look for shirts with firm, even close knitting. Examine the knit structure closely. The tiny loops should be plump and round, not stretched and pulled into long thin shapes. This distortion is caused by poor fabric construction/finishing. When the knit fabric has been stretched and pulled out long and thin and the garment is laundered, the loops return to their normal round shape and you have a problem – the T-shirt becomes shorter and wider. A general rule is the more yarns used and the closer the yarns, the more durable the fabric should be. To identify quality fabric, develop your sense of touch. The fabric should be free of flaws with no snags, pulls, thick or thin spots, and designs should be printed and garments cut on grain. T-shirts should be shrink resistant to one or two percent to maintain proper size. All cotton T-shirts, even high quality ones, if unfinished, may shrink as much as five percent which is more than a size change. So consider the “cut” of the garment style and size when shopping and buy a larger size to compensate for such shrinkage. T-shirts made of blended fibers tend to shrink less. Also new finishes and processing treatments for knits are creating products that lessen shrinkage. Be sure to read labels and packaging to note shrink resistance guarantees. Garment Cut. The garment should be cut with the grain. Here are a few tips to check for correctly cut garments: The side seams will be in correct position rather than twisted to the front or back of the garment. If the garment is incorrectly cut, it will remain twisted and out of shape after washing. Look at how the sleeves are cut. They should be of sufficient size and ease to not bind the wearer and not appear twisted at the armhole. A generous cut is an indication of quality while “skimpy” cuts can affect look, fit and comfort. Seams. Are the seams finished? Most knit tees have finished seams but the seams may vary in the seam widths, evenness, and closeness of stitching and durability of finish. Seams are most often overcast or zigzagged to lie flat. Check for neatness, and loose threads should be kept to a minimum and thread color should match. Crossed seam lines should match in addition to fabric designs (prints/plaids/stripes) matching at the seams. Neck and shoulder seams should be taped or reinforced with an extra layer of fabric to stabilize the seam and maintain shape. Neckline and Neckbands. If the T-shirt style has a neckband, it should be a firm, rib knit that retains its shape after stretching. Sometimes the ribbing is reinforced with a nylon blend for extra strength. The ribbing should conform to the neckline shape without distortions. Look at how the ribbing is attached to the neckline. An exposed neckline seam may cause some discomfort in wear. If the T-shirt does not have a neckband, check the neckline and facing to determine if it is straight, even in appearance and will maintain shape. Hems. Hems should be even in widths and sewn with sturdy matching thread. Hems should have some “give” or stretch enough to prevent breaking of stitching. Topstitching. Topstitching of hems, sleeves, or other seams, should be even, straight and not have broken stitches. Check for neatness with no highly visible loose threads. Pockets. Some t-shirts styles have front patch pockets. Be sure to check that the pocket area has some types of stabilization and reinforced stitching. Style/Decorative Effects. Color, style, and other decorative detailing of t-shirts influence your choice. A classic shirt in a solid color may be your choice, or you may want to add a fashionable and trendy style. Necklines often define the style, from simple V-necks to button up “henleys” or the addition of collars for “polos”. Add stripes with collars and cuffs and you have the “rugby”. Decorative effects are endless, everything from embroidery, cut-work, trims and embellishments, and screen prints. These all add to the novelty and trend setting looks for the basic T-shirt to stay fashionable. When selecting a T-shirt with any of these decorative or trendy details, look for smooth construction, and quality workmanship in the application of trims or other garment detailing. Make sure the trims and decorative embellishments are durable and suitable for the purpose, price, and style of the garment you desire. Also check to see if decorative details require special care that may influence your choice and decisions. In summary, before purchasing a T-shirt take time to carefully check the construction. Look for: Binding that returns to original shape after being stretched. T-shirt cut on-grain Seams that “give” when stretched Shoulder seams that are reinforced for durability Knit loops that are nearly round and relaxed Fabric that is a firm, even, close knit Stripes matched Finally, another indication of quality is the overall appearance of the garment. Do the trims add or distract from the garment? If your first impression of the garment says poor quality, that is what it will say to others. Sizing and Fit Sizing of T-shirts may be the chest/bust measurement or small, medium, large, or extra-large. Be sure that the T-shirt you select has sufficient width across the shoulders. You may way to consider buying a size larger (if cotton), especially if you plan to dry in a dryer. However, this does not apply if you buy shirts that are preshrunk. The fit of the T-shirt is important, not only for comfort but durability as well. It should: Have adequate width across the shoulders for movement Be long enough to tuck in, if that is the style Fit closely to neck Stretch enough to easily slip over the head Care Be sure to always read and follow carefully the care label directions. Usually Tshirts can be machine washed and tumble dried. However, remember that all cotton may shrink. Do not over dry. A compacted cotton (fabric has been subjected to heat, moisture, and pressure to squeeze the stitches close together) will have minimum shrinkage. Check label carefully in relation to shrinkage. Garment Labels How do you know which garment or fabric to select? One guide is to read the label. Labels are on your clothing. By law most apparel items (some exceptions are hosiery, gloves, hats, and reversible garments) must have a label or labels with the following: Fiber content Care Country of origin Registered identification number Hangtags are cardboard tags that hang on strings attached to garments. They are not permanent or required, but they can give you some additional information. Hangtags may include information such as price, finishes, extra/buttons/thread, fabric types, mini advertisements, brand names, trademarks, logos, special features, guarantees or warranties, seals of approval, and laboratory testing performance standards. Fiber Content Labeling Fiber content information must be available, at the point of purchase, either as a hangtag, printed on the packaging, or it can be on a permanent label. It must list the generic (family names and percentages of all fibers in the products in amounts of 5 percent or more listed in the order or predominate by weight. Less than 5 percent may be listed as “other fibers” unless it provides functional significance. An example of this found in some T-shirts is spandex (3%) for elasticity. The generic names of fibers must be used. Trade names, or brands, may be used with the generic name, e.g., 100% Trevira (brand name) polyester (generic). If a trade name is used, then its generic name must be used in the same size print. On a permanent label the textile item must name the manufacturer OR give a registered identification number (RN or a WPL) that has been filed with the Federal Trade Commission (FTC). The number is a manufacturer’s number and is your way of finding out who manufactured the garment, if not given on the label. Tell where the item was processed and manufactured and if it was imported or made in the United States. The required disclosure of the country of origin became effective in 1985. Its purpose is to inform the consumer of the country of origin of fabrics and apparel. The label must list the country of origin of the apparel manufacturer and identify if an imported fabric was used. Catalogs are required to also list this information. Care Labels In 1971 the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) issued the Care Labeling Rule. This required manufacturers and importers to attach permanent care instructions to garments and to fabrics by the yard. The rule was revised and clarified in 1984 resulting in clearer and more complete information for consumers. Care labels must be permanently attached to the garments and be readable for the life of the garment. Currently by law, manufacturers have to list only one method of care. Care information is to include washing, drying, ironing, using bleach or dry cleaning. If you use a method other than the one stated on the label you accept the responsibility for any damage that will be done to your garment. Care labeling is based on the warning system. If the label says “machine wash” then any temperature of water may be used. Otherwise it will tell you to use hot, warm, or cold water. Label requirements: How to wash, iron, dry, bleach, and dry clean. A permanent label that is readable for the life of the garment Easy to find label even for packaged items List only one method of safe care, even though others may be used Does not have to warn of unsafe methods Must have either a washing OR a dry cleaning instruction Care Symbols. As of July 1, 1997 the use of symbols for care instructions were established and manufacturers are no longer required to use both symbols and written directions. As a consumer the following symbols are necessary to recognize. As a minimum, laundering instructions include in order four symbols: Washing Bleaching Drying Ironing Remember: Only the washing or dry cleaning process listed in the instruction has been checked for safe use. If no temperature in mentioned, it is safe to use any temperature or setting -hot, warm or cold. If no ironing instruction is given, it should not be necessary to iron the product. If bleach is not mentioned, any type of bleach may be used, when needed. Exemptions to this care labeling rule are: shoes, gloves, hats, handkerchiefs, belts, suspenders, neckties, non-woven one use garments, marked by manufacturer’s remnants up to 10 yards when the fiber content is not known and cannot easily be determined, trims up to 5 inches wide. Exemptions to having permanently affixed care labels, but temporary labels must be provided: totally reversible clothing, products that can be washed, bleached, dried, ironed, or dry cleaned by the harshest method, as long as the instruction “wash or dry clean, any normal method” appears on a temporary label. Other products not needing care instructions: Those sold to institutional buyers for commercial use and rental service companies. Custom made garments when the consumer furnishes the fabric. Products retailing for less than $3.00. Changes in fibers, fabrics, labeling and apparel occur almost daily. It is important to learn and use textile laws, advertising, and comparison shopping as related to quality and cost-per-wear in making clothing purchase decisions. Now, consider some to these other factors in decision-making. Determine Clothing Budget and Garment Price After you have done a wardrobe inventory and made a list of the garments (in order of importance) that you need/want to add -- you must decide how much to spend. Make an estimate of the amount for each item. It is a good idea to set a limit on the amount you will spend for each clothing item. Keep a realistic cost in mind. You may want to decide on an amount yearly or seasonally. This becomes the basis for a clothing budget. A budget is merely a plan for making the best use of your clothing dollar. This includes both the cost of purchase and the cost of care. It is always a good idea to make a list of needed clothing and accessory items that includes the maximum amount of dollars you will spend. This should be done before you begin you shopping. You will spend less if you plan ahead for seasonal sales and resist impulse buying, and plan for mix and matching of your garments. Remember to buy the “necessary items” first. Having a list will help you avoid impulse buying. Sales, garage sales, and thrift shops may offer savings if the garment suits you needs; but remember these items can seldom be returned. What you buy reflects your clothing priorities, your personal image and your lifestyle. How much you spend reflects how you evaluate sale merchandise, and the quality and appropriateness of your clothing. Brand names also do not always reflect the quality of the garment. Buying quality means considering the factors already presented previously and taken into consideration with price, purpose and care. Buying quality is important for those garments that you will wear frequently. Buy the best quality you can afford for these items. For those seldom worn garments, quality is not as important. However, you want these garments to give a good appearance for a low price. Price and Cost-per-Wear Considerations Instead of just considering the cost of the garment, you will make better use of your clothing dollars if you will also consider cost-per-wear (CPW). It only makes good sense to spend the largest amount of your clothing dollars on something that you will wear several times, not just once. There is a simple formula for you to use: CPW = Cost of Garment + Cost of Care Number of Times Worn It is estimated that it costs $0.25 each time you launder a garment. If it is a garment that will require dry-cleaning, use local prices to figure this cost. Use this formula in making decisions about the use of your clothing budget, so you don’t buy impulsively. The price of a garment is related to: Quality of fabric Quality of workmanship Number of details Trim Brand name or designer name Store where being sold STORE SAVVY…Where To Shop Now, you are ready to do some shopping to compare quality and price in different types of stores. Today there are a variety of retail options for acquiring clothing. This will vary from locality to locality. No one type of retail option is the best place to shop for all clothing items. There are advantages to all of them. In addition to the usual apparel sources there are many unusual places which sell items of apparel -from the grocery store to the city sidewalks -- from garage sales to shops in hotel lobbies. Let’s look more closely at a few of these: Department store -- a large store that carries a variety of merchandise, features regular clothing sales, has more than one price level for clothing. Department Stores offer many clothing choices, keep merchandise in quantity, usually have liberal return policies, national brands and their own brands, and some may have personal shoppers. Specialty store -- carries only clothing, offers an edited selection of clothing that fits their image and/or community. Specialty stores may stress size or styles of exclusiveness, buy in small quantities, and offer personalized sales help. Variety store -- prices are lower, frequently an excellent source for fads. Variety stores handle a large assortment of general merchandise which includes clothing, arranged so sales clerks are not needed, lower prices due to rapid turnover and limited services, and have limited styles and qualities, usually poorer quality. Discount store – makes clothing prices available for everyone, sales ticket does not reflect a price reduction – unless the item is on sale. Discount Stores buy and sell at lower prices, buy overruns, no frills, usually no private dressing rooms and some may have designer clothing. Outlet stores – retail store where you can buy clothing directly from the designer or manufacturer. Outlet stores buy and sell at a lower cost, some sell seconds, some are operated by manufacturers, and may have the labels clipped, marked or cut out. Catalog – some are directed toward a specific clientele and some include very specific information about their fabrics, workmanship and sizing. Catalogs or mail order provides the convenience of shopping at home. Catalogs include description of item, may have garments not available in local markets, a wide variety of garment styles and colors. Many will accept phone orders if you use a credit card, and there is a wide range of prices. Resale clothing – can be found at special resale, consignment stores, garage and yard sales. At resale sites you may find high style or national brands at low cost, one of a kind garments, may find quality at low cost, especially good for garments that will only be worn a few times or for children who are growing rapidly, and you cannot return. Consignment shops are mostly used clothing, with garments in good condition and in style, donor receives a percentage of selling price, and consumer usually cannot return the item. Thrift Shops – clothes are donations which can be used for a tax deduction, lower cost, some may be out-of-style or show signs of wear, and you cannot return. TV Shopping – convenience of shopping at home, usually see an actual garment, nothing in writing to verify size, color, fiber content or care, and you can order by phone using a credit card. In Summary: Your Final Choice Before making a final decision to purchase a garment ask yourself: Does it improve my appearance? Will it be easy to care for? Is it comfortable when I move around? Does it fit into my present wardrobe? Is it the price I have budgeted? Where can I wear it? Is it really me? Do I need it? If you can answer yes to each of the above questions, then you have found the right garment for you. The big question is what you want in a T-shirt. Once you have made this decision then remember that price is determined by: The quality of the knit (softer and more stretch) The finishing (construction) The styling (number and kind of design features) The label (designer label) or store brand Finally, you should consider cost-per-wear as a significant factor in your final decision along with price, quality, and intended use. References Nadine Hackler, “Shopping for T-shirts”, Florida Cooperative Extension Publication, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, The University of Florida, Gainesville, FL, April 1980. Rose Marie Tondl, “Clothing Labels, NebFacts Nebraska Cooperative Extension NF92-93, Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources, The University of Nebraska, July, 1995. “Clothes that Click” Florida 4-H Clothing Program Leader’s Guide, Florida Cooperative Extension SP CCL22. Activity 1 Worksheet Advantages and Disadvantages of T-Shirt Options Use the chart below to identify what you believe to be the advantages and disadvantages of the different types of fabrics and fabric blends. Be prepared to explain why you think each item is an advantage or disadvantage. Advantages 100% Cotton -Traditionally very comfortable -Very soft - Becomes more comfortable the more times you wash it -Less prone to shrinkage -Less prone to stretching 50% Cotton -Quick drying time 50% Polyester -Retains shape over time -Less absorbent Spandex -Very stretchy and holds shape after -Lightweight -Not very absorbent -Resists body oils 1. Which type of fiber blend do you prefer? 2. Why do you think this is the best type for you? Disadvantages -Very absorbent -Looses elasticity quickly -Looses shape easily -Wear out quickly -Prone to shrinkage -Not as soft -Not as comfortable -Harder to maintain -Affected by bleach -Harder to wash/maintain -More expensive Activity 2 Worksheet Using the formula below, calculate the cost-per-wear information for the situations given. CPW = Cost of Garment + Cost of Care Number of Times Worn 1) Nick is buying a new $40 sweatshirt for the winter. Since he lives in Florida, he will only wear it 20 times this winter and it will cost him $0.25 to wash it after each usage. What is the cost-per-wear of the sweatshirt? Answer: $40 + (0.25 x 20) = $2.25 per wear 20 2) Jenny is going to buy a new 100% cotton shirt to wear to bed for $10. She will wear it 300 times this year, and will wash the shirt after every two times she wears it to bed. It will cost her $0.25 each wash. What is the costper-wear of the shirt? Answer: $10 + (0.25 x 150) = $0.16 per wear 300 3) Robert needs to know how much he should pay for a new T-shirt. He wants the cost-per-wear of the shirt to be $1.00. He is going to wear it 50 times this year, and it will cost him $0.35 to wash it after every time he wears it. What should the cost of the shirt equal? Answer: X + (.35 x 50) = $1.00 50 X = $32.50 4) Tiffany needs to calculate how much her new cotton/polyester blend shirt costs every time it is washed. She paid $25 for the shirt, wore it 150 times, and washed it after every third time wearing it. If her cost-per-wear was $0.60, how much does it cost her every time she washes the shirt? Answer: $25 + (X x 50) = $0.60 150 X = $1.30 per wash Practice Junior Consumer Situation for T-Shirts – Answers Ryan and Sam are getting ready for camp this summer and want to purchase an additional t-shirt to extend their wardrobe. They want something that will be cool and comfortable to wear and that will go with most of their summer shorts. Their mom has given each of them $11 for this purchase. Rank them in order from 1 (best choice) to 4 (least desirable choice), and give a few reasons for your decision. 1) Screen-printed Long Sleeve Gray Tee. This shirt is 65% cotton and 35% polyester knit with the following characteristics: Screen print on front and sleeves Machine Wash, Tumble Dry No chlorine bleach Low Iron if needed Made in USA $11.99 2) White Short Sleeve T-Shirt. This shirt is 100% cotton knit with the following characteristics: Machine Wash, Tumble Dry Medium Iron Made in Taiwan $8.99 3) Red and Navy Blue Striped Short Sleeve T-shirt. This shirt is 65% cotton and 35% polyester knit with the following characteristics: Machine Wash, Like Colors Tumble Dry No chlorine bleach Medium Iron if needed Made in USA $7.99 4) Light Gray Short Sleeve T-shirt. This shirt is 50% cotton and 50% polyester knit with the following characteristics: Machine Wash, Tumble Dry Medium Iron in needed Made in Hong Kong $10.99 Placing: 4-2-3-1 Justification: 1st place: Number 4. This t-shirt is a blend of cotton and polyester that will provide lots of durability and easy care for summer camp. It is light colored for coolness and would go with most colors. While it is more costly than number 1, its durability may be worth the price difference for longer wear. 2nd place: Number 2. The white basic tee is a good choice for the money. Being all cotton means it will be the coolest choice, however durability and care may be limited. It will go with all other colors of wardrobe items, but white will also show soil easily. 3rd place: Number 3. This short sleeve shirt may be appealing due to the colors and stripes. However, you would need solid colored shorts that it would match. It is a good fiber blend that indicates durability, easy care, and comfort. Its color, however, presents other limitations with care. It will have to be washed with similar colors, and could fade over time. The price makes it a good value. 4th place: Number 1. A black colored shirt would be very hot and uncomfortable for summer. It is also out of our price range.