Anatomy of a Fishing Line
The straight pulling strength indicated by the pound-test rating on the box is only one of the many
characteristics built into premium fishing line. Depending on what you’re fishing for and how you fish for it,
these characteristics will also play a major role in your line selection:
Nylon monofilament fishing line is strong, flexible, abrasion resistant, nearly invisible in water and surprisingly
inexpensive. In fact, monofilament line is one of the least expensive components of your entire tackle system.
It’s one of the most important, too, because spooling up with a strong, dependable fishing line can make the
difference between catching the fish of a lifetime, or telling the story about the big one that got away.
How Strong is Strong? Line strength is measured by “pound test”, the number of pounds of pulling power it
takes to break the line. In theory, a 10-pound test line will break when it’s pulled with a 10 pounds of steady
pressure. Unfortunately, some manufactures understate their products’ true breaking strength to compensate
for weak spots and other shortcomings, and then claim that their lines are “stronger” because they “test”
higher.
How Tough is Tough? There’s a lot more to a line’s strength then measuring the pulling pressure it takes to
break it. Take “knot strength”, for example. Many inexpensive bargain monofilament lines have such inferior
knot strength that they may break at the knot at pressures less than 50% of their pound test rating.
A line’s “shock strength” determines if the line will break easily if pulled sharply or shocked, which often
happens when you set the hook. If you fish in or around rocks and heavy cover, or catch fish with sandpaper
rough scales or skin, you want fishing line with high abrasion resistance to protect it from scrapes and
scratches.
When it comes to elasticity, all monofilament lines stretch, but premium lines offer controlled stretch, which is
just the right balance of elasticity and sensitivity. Many poor-quality lines actually lose their strength after they
have been stretched.
Monofilament line is subjected to a lot of abuse during a routine day of fishing; it’s knotted, tugged, rubbed,
stretched and occasionally bitten. It takes a premium line to be tough enough to take it.
Abrasion Resistance: Most premium lines offer good resistance to scuffing, nicks, and the normal wear and
tear from repeated casting. Some monofilament lines are formulated with a harder surface designed
specifically for extra abrasion resistance to excel in extreme fishing conditions.
Shock Strength: Savage strikes, lightning-fast hook sets and hard-fighting fish will "shock" a fishing line.
Poor quality lines have a tendency to snap under these sudden-stress conditions. Superior shock strength is
an essential characteristic if you go after big, hard-fighting fish.
Tensile Strength: The amount of steady pulling force, measured in either pounds or kilograms, required to
break a line indicates its tensile strength. Premium fishing lines achieve higher tensile strength than cheap
lines of the same diameter.
Controlled Stretch: All monofilament lines stretch when they’re pulled, but some stretch too easily. Easily
stretched lines not only lose their sensitivity, they lose their strength when they’re stressed. Controlled stretch
provides just the right combination of shock absorption and durability.
Proper Limpness: The proper amount of limpness ensures smooth handling, flexibility, low
memory or coil and a line that’s easy to cast.
So, What Color is the Best? When it comes to color, several companies offer high-visibility, which stands
out and is easy to see, and low-Visibility lines, which blends into their surroundings and are difficult to see.
Visibility: Fishing line color options include a full range of visibility.
Clear/Blue Fluorescent: When illuminated by sunlight, Stren Clear/Blue Fluorescent glows a gentle blue
color making it easier to see when casting, retrieving, or trolling. It also appears to glow in the dark when hit
with a black light during night fishing.
Walleye & Moss Green: Perfect for blending in to most underwater environments, especially those with
vegetation or algae.
Hi-Vis Colors. Stren invented hi-vis fluorescent fishing lines in 1962. The Original Clear/Blue offers just the
right amount of visibility above water while remaining low-vis below the water to let you see it when trolling,
casting, or retrieving your bait. If you prefer a more visible line for low light conditions or when jigging I deep
or murky water, then Stren hi-vis gold is the most visible lines in the world.
Hi-Vis Gold: Bright, easy to see strikes, and easy to monitor line position while trolling multiple lines or when
fishing in current. Also excels in low-light conditions or anytime maximum line visibility is required.
Lo-Vis Colors. When it’s more important for your line to be invisible to the fish than visible to you, choose a
line that blends in with its surroundings. Stren Clear, Magnathin Crystal Clear is a great choice for clear water
conditions. Lo-vis green, moss green is the best choice for murky water.
Lo-Vis Green: Blends right in to most underwater environments and is especially effective on line-shy fish or
when fishing heavily pressured waters.
Lo-Vis Clear: It’s transparent so it excels in any underwater situation and is perfect for ultra- clear water or
when you’re fishing for finicky fish.
Knot Strength: A line with high knot strength will "hold" a knot at or very near the line’s rated breaking
strength. Poor quality monofilament lines have lower knot strength and may break at a fraction of their rated
pound test strength.
Super Strong Small Diameter braided lines. The most noticeable difference is the incredible strength.
Premium braided lines are three to four times stronger than monofilament lines of the same diameter. Their
high strength makes them ideal for deep-water jigging, downrigger trolling, or flippin and pitchin into heavy
cover, because you can pull your lure free from the most stubborn snags and muscle the biggest fish out of
the thickest timber.
Low-stretch Incredible Sensitivity and striking Power. But, High strength/small diameter isn’t the most
exciting aspect of the new premium braids. The most amazing difference is their unsurpassed sensitivity and
striking power. Because premium braided lines have virtually no stretch, they telegraph the slightest vibrations
up the line, so you can feel what’s going on down below like never before.
When fishing you can actually feel your jig creeping over logs and other underwater structure and instantly
detect a fish inhaling the bait. When fishing a spinner every pulse of the vibrating blade is amplified, even
when slow rolling it or fishing it on the drop, making subtle strikes instantly detectible. Live bait anglers can
actually feel their minnow begin to panic as predator fish approach it. Pike and muskie hunters can feel fresh
water’s meanest fish bump their spoons and baits, so they can stop their retrieve and provoke a strike. Plus,
with virtually no stretch to cushion your strike, braided lines deliver positive hook sets with lightning fast
speed.
Some of the early braided products are plagued by performance problems. Braided lines tend to cut
themselves when knotted, and often break at the knot at forces below 50% of the line’s rated breaking
strength. Many are bright-white gel spun polyester fibers that resist pigments or coloration, so they proved to
be too conspicuous to fish when the color washed out after only a few hours of fishing. Sadly, a few brands
are so costly to manufacture that they were priced four or five times higher then comparable monofilament
lines.
Getting Rigged
It pays to exercise care when spooling up your reels with new line. Improperly loading your reel can cause
line twist, which results in annoying tangles and reduced casting distance. Yet it pays to learn how to do it for
yourself so you can change your own line quickly and easily whenever you want.
Filling a Casting Reel or revolving spool
Bait casting and trolling reels are the easiest to spool up, especially if you ask a friend to help you. Just
remember to maintain moderate consistent tension on the line at all times, by gently pinching the line between
your thumb and forefinger, to avoid loose wraps that might cause tangling late.
Step 1: insert a pencil into the supply spool to allow the fishing line to feed smoothly off the spool. Have
someone hold each end of the pencil while you turn the reel handle. Your helper should maintain slight inward
pressure on the supply spool to prevent it from overrunning, and to keep proper tension on the line.
Step 2: Fill the spool within ⅛ to ¼ inch from the outer rim of the revolving spool. Do not overfill
Filling a Spinning Reel
Because the spool of a spinning reel does not rotate, you should use this method to prevent a twist in the line.
Step 1:Place the service spool on the ground with the label facing up. Pull the line so it spirals or balloons off
the end of the spool.
Step 2: Thread the end of the line through the guides of the rod and tie it to the spool with the bail in the open
position.
Step 3: Hold the rod tip three feet above the supply spool. Turn the handle 15 or 20 times while applying
tension to the line with your thumb and forefinger.
Step 4: Stop reeling and dip the rod tip to a foot above the supple spool. If the slack line twists into a “pig tail”,
turn the supply spool so the label faces down, and continue spooling the line. If the slack line is not twisted,
spool up with the label facing up.
Step 5: Fill the reel to within ⅛ to ¼ inch of the lip of the spool. Do not overfill.
Filling a Closed-Face Spin-Cast Reel
Fill a closed-face spin-cast reel the same way you would a spinning reel, except remember to thread the line
through the hole in the front of the reel. Spin-cast reels do not hold much line, so remove the reel cover
partway every now and then to make sure you do not over fill the enclosed spool.
Tips
Once you’ve spooled up your reels with a premium line, try a few suggestions to improve your success out on
the water.
Setting the drag
Almost all fishing reels have a drag, or adjustable brake, which controls how much force is required to pull line
off the spool. Drag is important for two reasons. First, it helps you to fight a big fish by making it difficult for the
fish t pull out line. Second, it makes it more difficult for the fish to break your line because a correctly adjusted
drag releases tension on the line before it becomes so great that it snaps. That’s why properly setting the
drag on your fishing reel is one of the most important things you can do to ensure that your next “big one”
doesn’t get away.
The easiest way to adjust drag tension is to pull line from the reel with one hand and twist your reel’s drag
adjustment knob, lever or dial with your other. Drag adjustment mechanisms differ from manufacturer to
manufacturer. The trick is to tighten the drag to provide just enough resistance to set the hook and slow a
running fish, without being so tight the line won’t pull smoothly from the reel under moderate pressure.
A More Scientific way to set the drag
Step 1: With the reel mounted on the rod, thread the line through the guides, and tie it to an accurate spring
scale.
Step 2: Lift the rod tip slowly, and pull against the scale as if you were fighting a fish. Check the pounds of
force required to pull line off the reel.
Step 3: Adjust and check the drag force until you reach about 25% of the line’s pound-test rating. For
example, the proper drag force for 10 pound-test line would be 2 ½ pounds. You can go lighter to be on the
safe side, but it is not a good idea to go much heavier that 25% of the rated breaking strength of the line.
Another alternative in setting the drag is with the rod securely in a holder. The scale should read between 25
and 33 percent of the unknotted line strength when the drag starts to slip. 30-lb test line (shown above)
should have a strike drag setting of between 7.5 and 10 pounds.
If you set the drag on a light-tackle outfit, 12-pound test, with the rod tip pointed at the scale (top image), the
reading should be about 15 percent of the unknotted line strength. When the rod is in the fighting position
(bottom) friction will increase the drag.
Removing loops of line on spinning reels
Open-face spinning reels, especially models with elongated long cast spools, will occasionally cause loose
loops of line to form on the spool, which interferes with casting. Worse, they’ll occasionally catch on the reels
rotor or spiral off the end of the spool to create a major tangle. Should a loose loop form on your spinning reel
spool, whatever you do, do not cut or pull on the loop to clear it from your reel.
Instead, cast your line as far as you can and continue pulling line off the spool until you reach the section of
line that caused the loop. If you apply pressure to the spool with your index finger, you will reduce the
chances of the loop flowing off the spool when you pull the tag end of the line. Once you’ve cleared the loop,
rewind your line while exerting moderate tension by pinching it between your thumb and forefinger.
The best way to prevent loops on spinning reel spools is to develop the habit of briskly lifting your rod tip right
before you begin retrieving line after every cast. Lifting your rod tip straightens out your line and removes
slack on your spinning reel spool, which is the major cause of loops.
Controlling Twist in your line
Line twist is almost unavoidable because it’s caused by so many factors. Revolving lures, especially in-line
spinners and wobbling spoons, are common culprits. Using a quality ball bearing swivel to help reduce twist
caused by lures. A number six, 6-bead, bead chain will also help tremendously and in most cases will be
better than a ball bearing swivel for preventing line twist. These swivels are available in stainless, black and
red to match all your color combinations. In experienced anglers who crank the handle on their spin cast or
spinning reel when the drag is loose, or when a fish is taking out line. Every turn of the rotor puts a full twist in
the line, of course, few of us complain when our lines get twisted when fighting a fish!
Unfortunately, too much line twist can interfere with casting, and even damage your line. Fortunately, it’s easy
to get rid of. Just remove all terminal tackle, and troll the bare line behind your boat for a few minutes. If
you’re fishing in a river, feed the bare line downstream and allow the current to work out the twists.
Getting rid of coils in your line
Nylon monofilament has a memory so line stored on a reel for a long period of time adopts a “set”, which
results in a series of stiff coils in your line. The easiest way to get rid of them is to soak the line in water for an
hour before you go fishing, this can be done by putting you reel in a bucket f water.
You can also use tension to remove the coils.
Step 1: Tie the line to a tree or another stationary object.
Step 2: Let the line off your reel as you back away to a distance of a long cast.
Step 3: Use your rod to put a strain on the line, as though you were setting the hook.
Step 4: Apply moderate tension to the line, well short of the rated break point, a dozen times or more.
Clearing a backlash in bait casting reels
Backlashes, jokingly called professional overruns, occur during a cast whenever the spool on your reel rotates
faster than the line is being pulled off the spool by your bait or lure. The most common causes of backlashes
are:
Overpowering your cast by accelerating your rod too quickly at the beginning of your casting stroke.
Improperly feathering the spool with your thumb while the line is sailing out.
Failing to completely stop the rotation of the spool with your thumb when your bait hits something mid-cast,
like a tree branch or dock, or when the bait lands in the water at the end of your cast.
Here’s a tip from the pro’s on how to remove backlashes quickly. This technique works best for monofilament
line. First crank the drag down all the way so the spool will not rotate away from you and allow the line to pull
out. Then, apply heavy thumb pressure to the face of the tangled spool while slowly turning the reel handle to
rotate the spool. The pressure from your thumb on the slowly revolving spool will actually straighten out the
loose wraps of tangled line and realign them. After applying a couple of treatments like this to the backlash,
you should be able to pull the remaining tangles free very quickly and easily.
When to change your line
Even the best quality, premium fishing lines eventually wear out, so why risk losing a trophy fish by using old,
worn-out, or questionable fishing line? Professional anglers check their lines before every tournament and
change them whenever they begin to show signs of wear. Casual anglers would be safest to spool up with
new line at the beginning of every fishing season. More frequent anglers should consider changing lines after
every few fishing trips.
UV Degradation and damage from heat
The same ultraviolet radiation that causes skin cancer can deteriorate the molecular structure of nylon
monofilament fishing line, especially if it is exposed to sunlight over a long period of time. Overexposure to
heat can damage your line, too. As a general rule, never store your rod or reel outdoors, in direct sunlight, or
in the hot trunk of a car between fishing trips. If you notice any “chalking”, a white powdery residue that forms
on the surface of deteriorating monofilament, it’s a sure sign that your fishing line is ready for retirement.
Nicks
Rocks, sticks, hooks, and fish scales and spines can all cause microscopic nicks in the surface of your line,
which can reduce its strength by 50% or more! Most fishing pros check their line by running the first 10 feet
through their thumb and forefinger while pressing against the line with their thumbnail whenever there’s a
pause in the fishing action, or after they land a fish, drag the line over a rock or stump, or just have a
premonition that something might be wrong. If they feel any roughness or irregularities, they immediately cut
off the worn section and retie their bait or lure.
Damage from faulty tackle
If your line starts to break mysteriously, check your reel and line guides for sharp spots or other problems that
might be damaging your line. Sometimes the ceramic rings in the line guides will crack or chip and will leave
razor sharp edges. Check for abrasive scratches and chips by running a piece of nylon stocking or a ball of
cotton through the ring or across the surface. Any rough spots will instantly snag the fibers when they pass
through.
Storing Line
Always store your fishing reels and extra line in a cool, dark place, like a cabinet or closet. Keep monofilament
line away form continuous exposure to sunlight or excessive heat.
Disposing of old line
When it’s finally time to change your line, take extra precautions about disposing of your old line in a safe,
responsible manner. Most fishing lines degrade so slowly that they create lethal traps for fish and wildlife if
carelessly discarded in the wild. Never let your companions throw worn-out fishing line overboard, either.
Consider setting an example for your children and friends by taking a few moments to gather up snarls of
discarded fishing line that have been left by others.
Stren® Original is America’s most recognizable fishing line in the familiar purple box, and the leader in allaround dependability. Time has proven it a winner. Stren Original offers anglers unmatched knot strength,
toughness, and handling. Its unique formulation has set it apart from the rest of the field for decades. The
dependable choice for any fishing situation. No wonder Stren Original was Rated #1 among monofilaments
tested in the October 2001 issue of Sport Fishing Magazine. Now available in a new low-sheen clear
that's nearly invisible under water.
Line Colors
Low Memory - Lays on the reel beautifully, casts like a dream, will not take a set and is always easy to
control.
Superior Knot Strength - Knots draw smoothly and cinch tight. Commonly retains 100% of its line strength.
Tough/Abrasion Resistant - Stands up to extreme fishing conditions.
Stren® Extra Strength™ ranks among the highest in tensile and knot strength. It’s built to take abuse and
keep the pressure on big fish. Fishermen who are tough on tackle need a fishing line that can take abuse.
With a break strength up to 80% higher than lines of equal diameter, Stren® Extra Strength™ can weather a
lot of punishment and still handle well.
Line Colors
Superior Strength - Tensile and knot strength are among the highest of any premium line.
High Shock Resistance - Provides excellent shock resistance on the hookset and during the fight.
Excellent Castability - Casts long and smooth. Handles well on any reel.
Specially formulated for the most demanding salt-water anglers. This strong, abrasion resistant line performs
well on casting, spinning and trolling reels.
Stren High Impact fills the bill for a high strength, extremely durable line that’s well suited to every salt-water
pursuit. With an unmatched combination of strength, abrasion and impact resistance, High Impact delivers the
type of performance that serious bay, coastal and blue water fishermen demand.
Line Colors
Salt Water Rated - Preferred by serious anglers for all coastal and offshore fishing.
Tough/Abrasion Resistant - Built to withstand harsh salt water fishing conditions. Perfect for the beach,
jetty, bridge, reef or wreck.
Low Stretch - For added hook-setting force and fish fighting power.
Stren® Class™ is designed for the specific needs of fresh and salt water anglers seeking IGFA world records.
IGFA rated from 2 lb. through 130 lb. class, Stren Class is the toughest line ever made. It features
unparalleled knot strength, controlled stretch, excellent recovery, heat and friction resistance, and great shock
resistance to survive sudden boat-side surges from big gamefish.
Line Colors
Superior Knot Strength - For added dependability at critical times.
Advanced Abrasion Resistance - Resists chafing from scorching runs and heat build-up.
Uniform Diameter - Assures accurate, consistent strength.
Stren® Fluorocarbon™ fishing line represents the latest in low visibility fishing line technology. This smooth
casting, 100% fluorocarbon fishing line is loaded with performance features that include high strength, ultralow visibility, low stretch and easy handling. It also features high UV resistance and no water absorption.
Line Colors
Low Visibility - Nearly undetectable under water.
Low Stretch - More sensitivity and better hook-setting power.
High Tensile Strength - High strength to diameter relationship
Stren® Easy Cast™ is extremely supple, and handles beautifully to assure long, smooth, accurate casts.
Fishermen won’t tolerate a line that’s kinky, stiff or holds a coil. They want their line to leave the spool smooth
and straight so they can put their lure right on the money. That’s just what fishermen have come to expect
from Stren Easy Cast. Easy Cast is a smooth, supple, strong line that performs effortlessly on spinning and
casting outfits. It’s the ideal line where light lines and delicate presentations are the rule.
Line Colors
Better Handling - Low line memory for longer casts and improved lure action.
More Casting Control - The line literally flows from both spinning and casting reels.
Controlled Stretch - For added shock resistance and impact strength
Finally, A superline that has it all! Introducing New Stren Super Braid with Advanced Microbond
Technology. This remarkable line offers all the super line qualities that fishermen demand - like superior
strength and sensitivity, plus several important characteristics that most other braids can't match. Stren Super
Braid features unmatched handling and casting performance. The line resists fraying and fading; knots cinch
down tight. The result is a line that performs beautifully, casts effortlessly, and maintains its roundness and
extraordinary strength longer.
Line Colors
Advanced MicroBond Technology - Allows for a smooth, round, compact line that maintains its body &
shape.
Cast & Handles Like A Dream - The round construction allows the line to behave better even on spinning
reels.
High Knot Strength & Bonding - Knots tie easily, bond tightly, and won't slip out.
Small diameter and extraordinary strength characterize this premium monofilament. Put more line on the reel,
more distance into your cast and more finesse into your presentation with Stren® Magnathin™. The defining
feature of this remarkable line is its exceptional strength-to-diameter ratio. Anglers can actually drop down a
line size or two without sacrificing strength. Its thin diameter also allows lures and baits to sink faster and
improves casting. When strength, thin diameter and casting accuracy count, knowledgeable fishermen count
on Stren Magnathin.
Line Colors
Small Diameter - Lower visibility, less water drag for faster sinking and improved lure action.
Super Strong - High strength-to-diameter ratio allows anglers to drop down a line size or two without
sacrificing strength.
Advanced Casting - Easy to control, smooth, longer casts
Stren® Catfish is one rugged fishing line with plenty of pure pulling power matched by tremendous abrasion
resistance. This is a line you don’t have to pamper – even under typical catfishing conditions where you’re
competing against rocks, submerged trees and other obstructions, as well as the fish.
Line Colors
Tough - Resists abrasion from rocks, fallen trees and other structures.
Shock Strength - Excellent hook setting power and impact resistance.
Super Tensile Strength - For lifting big catfish out of their holes.
Low Stretch - For maximum sensitivity and hook setting power.
Stren® MagnaFlex™ combines high tensile and knot strength with excellent flexibility and handling – it’s truly
a high performance line for fresh and salt water. Outstanding performance characteristics make Stren
MagnaFlex perfectly suited for the rigors of tournament fishing, long days under the sun on the flats, or the full
range of blue water pursuits.
Line Colors
Superior Strength - High tensile and knot strength.
Casts Farther - Exceptional smoothness and low memory provide better casting control and distance.
Tough/Durable - Stands up to extreme fishing conditions.
High Shock Resistance - Amazing impact strength for a line this supple.
Designed to pull big fish out of nasty places. Stren Heavy Cover is the top choice of avid hawg hunters.
Specially formulated to handle the rigors of working weedbeds, stick-ups, pilings and other hard to fish
structure. With the strength and abrasion resistance of this remarkable line, Stren Heavy Cover gives
fishermen confidence to throw into the tough stuff and the power to stop a hooked fish before he retreats any
deeper.
Line Colors
Maximum Durability - Abrasion resistance is off the charts for this rugged line.
High Strength - You don't have to pamper new Stren Heavy Cover. Tensile and knot strength are
exceptionally high.
Low Stretch - Easy strike detection and greater hook-setting force.
High Recovery - Maintains its strength after a heavy shock.
Stren® Original is America’s most recognizable fishing line in the familiar purple box, and the leader in allaround dependability. Time has proven it a winner. Stren Original offers anglers unmatched knot strength,
toughness, and handling. Its unique formulation has set it apart from the rest of the field for decades. The
dependable choice for any fishing situation. No wonder Stren Original was Rated #1 among monofilaments
tested in the October 2001 issue of Sport Fishing Magazine. Now available in a new low-sheen clear
that's nearly invisible under water.
Line Colors
Low Memory - Lays on the reel beautifully, casts like a dream, will not take a set and is always easy to
control.
Superior Knot Strength - Knots draw smoothly and cinch tight. Commonly retains 100% of its line strength.
Tough/Abrasion Resistant - Stands up to extreme fishing conditions.
The 20- Line Test
By
Doug Olander
Take a look at most any ad for fishing line or any line manufacturer's Web site. You'll see pretty much the
same claims made over and over: Casts farther! Better knot strength! Smaller diameter! Strongest
monofilament we've ever made! Superior abrasion resistance! Supersoft and limp! And, always, Quality!
It's easy to get tangled up in so much rhetoric. But what does it all really mean? Where can an angler go to
sort it all out? Nowhere, in fact.
Quite simply, no industry standards exist to help consumers sort out the qualities of fishing lines; no laws
require manufacturers to reveal any particular product information. Or, put another way, line manufacturers
can pretty much make whatever claims they want. Then it becomes caveat emptor, baby - you pays your
money and you takes your chances.
But without reliable line-testing machines, educated decision-making gets pretty dicey for the average fishingline consumer.
That's why we elected to undertake the most comprehensive line test ever. We chose a common line size
useful for many applications - 20-pound - and subjected 85 different lines to identical testing procedures. We
assessed the two parameters we could measure objectively: tensile (break) strength and abrasion
strength/resistance, as well as measured the actual diameter of each line with calipers. We also tested for
knot strength; the sidebar on page 74 explains why we decided not to publish those findings. In all, we
performed nearly 1,200 separate tests over three long days of testing.
We didn't test limpness or softness: Although these qualities are important to anglers, they're hard to quantify.
Moreover, unlike break or abrasion strength, limpness or softness is pretty easy to assess just by the line's
feel.
THE TEST
Diameter
Although not really a test, measuring the diameter of each line was a critical part of the results because we
rated strength as a function of line size, as discussed below. We checked the diameter of every line in three
different areas with a Teklock manual caliper. While callipering monofilament (solid, round strands of nylon) is
pretty straightforward, checking braided lines can be trickier since they aren't solid and tend to collapse
(flatten) in the jaws of a caliper.
Tensile Strength
For a real-world test of monofilament lines' break strength, 73 different monos were soaked for at least two
hours in fresh water at room temperature. (Monofilament loses a bit of strength when wet; that's why the
International Game Fish Association similarly wet-tests monofilament line samples submitted with worldrecord catch applications.) Braided lines do not lose strength when wet; we tested those dry. We tested five
samples of each line on a factory-calibrated MTS tensile tester, which provided a computer printout of the
result.
Abrasion Resistance
For abrasion resistance, we tested six samples each of 85 different lines, all in exactly the same way. We
used a machine made just for testing abrasion resistance in lines - the same machine used in our abrasion
test of 8-pound lines in July 1998. For each test, we attached a weight to the lower end of a piece of line
approximately 12 inches long. Then a loop in the upper end of the line was placed onto the end of a metal
arm that pulled the line up and down over a 150-grit steel cylinder at 132 cycles per minute. A counter tracked
the number of cycles until the line broke. Between tests the cylinders were brushed to assure the coarse
surface was free of line particles.
All lines were tested dry. Slight differences may occur in wet versus dry lines, but relative wet-dry differences
among lines should be minimal.
It is worth noting that this test could be varied by using very heavy weights so that many fewer cycles on
average would be needed to break lines or, conversely, by using very light weights so many more cycles
would be needed. Since some lines may abrade differently, different approaches could change the results.
We picked what we felt was a middle-of-the-road amount of weight. Also, keep in mind that in this test we
measured one common form of abrasion - the sort that might simulate a line rubbing against a boat's hull or
around a piling. Measuring abrasion against a sharp object to simulate a fish's teeth might produce different
results.
ANALYSIS
For each line, we computed to the nearest tenth of a pound the mean (average) of five breaks. By also
computing the standard deviation of these five averages, we could compare tensile uniformity in lines. That is,
assessing how consistently each broke and then placing each within one of four general categories: excellent
(best since minimal deviation shows great consistency; always desirable and one way to assess the quality
that a manufacturer brags about), high, moderate or low (least desirable).
The recognized standard for tensile strength in industry and science is break strength (stress) as a function of
the object's size, that is, applied load divided by cross-sectional area. In testing fishing lines, this requires
dividing the mean break strength of each line by the surface area of a cross section, which, being a circle, is
simply pi (3.14) times the radius squared. Resulting numbers were very high from dividing by tiny areas (e.g.,
0.000025 square inch), so to keep the numbers as manageable decimals and easy to compare, we divided
each line's tensile strength by 10,000. The resulting figure we deemed our tensile-break-strength rating.
We could have simply listed the average of five breaks. But strength must be considered relative to size. Put
another way, if some models of 50-hp outboard engines weighed as much as 150 pounds and others as little
70 pounds, small-boat owners would want to know. Line manufacturers could more cheaply offer 20-pound
mono with the diameter of what we'd expect in 80-pound. There would be more area to resist abrasion, but
anglers generally benefit from smaller, thinner lines because these cast better than thicker lines, offer more
line capacity on the reel and provide lures and baits with more action, thanks to less water resistance.
To determine and compare abrasion strengths, we dropped the highest and lowest of the six tests on each
line, then averaged the remaining four, producing a mean number of cycles to break. Again, we wanted to
offer abrasion as a function of the line's overall size. That way, for example, a very thin line with more
expensive, added polymers to resist abrasion might have the very same abrasion resistance as a much
thicker line. Without knowing the thicknesses of these two lines, you might assume one line is as good as the
other for abrasion. But most anglers would prefer the thinner line.
To factor in line size, we divided each line's mean break (number of cycles on the abrasion tester) by the
line's diameter, not its cross-sectional area. The abrasion test stressed only one part of the surface of the line,
unlike a tensile test, which stresses the entire line simultaneously, so testing against cross-sectional area
would have skewed results. This produced our abrasion-strength rating.
Finally, we wanted to take into account both break and abrasion strength. To prevent the much higher
numbers of the abrasion-strength index from skewing the overall rating too heavily, we multiplied the breakstrength rating by two, then averaged that number with the abrasion-strength index to get the combined
rating.
RESULTS
Tensile Strength
Not surprisingly, head-to-head, braids generally beat monofilaments for tensile strength hands down. That is,
at the same break strength, the gel-spun polyethylene superbraids are much thinner and, hence, truly much
stronger. However, it's well established that knots simply don't hold as well in braid as in mono, so they lose
some of their inherent strength there.
Many lines claim to be stronger than others. But, again, true strength is a measure of breaking point against
size. On that basis the strongest braid was Western Filament Tuf Line. It was also underrated, claiming a 20pound strength on its spool but breaking at 29 pounds (practically speaking, though, remember to deduct
several pounds for lost knot strength). The strongest mono we tested was Remington Ultra. It broke at 31.8
pounds, yet it's very thin. Rounding out the top five monos in strength: Australian Platypus, which broke at
22.8 pounds (barely over the IGFA's 10-kilogram limit of 22.2 pounds), Berkley Trilene Sensithin, Platypus
Super-100 and Super Silver Thread.
However, for many of the lines we tested, differences in diameter were not vast, and not all anglers care
about using the thinnest and most abrasion-resistant line they can find. For many, actual mean tensile
strength regardless of diameter is most important; that is, at what strength did this line actually break wet? For
those figures, see the data table.
It's worth noting that among the five strongest lines all but the Platypus are considerably underrated. Although
the spool claims 20-pound strength, in fact with Remington, Berkley and Silver Thread lines mentioned above
- as with many other lines in this test - you won't be fishing 20-pound at all, but lines testing near or even well
above 30-pound. Nothing wrong with that; it's just nice to know what you're really fishing with.
Resistance to Abrasion
We found surprising variation among braided lines, with some 20-pound braids lasting a mere 60 cycles on
average, while others held on through more than 800 cycles. Loudly squealed protestations at being pulled
back and forth over the steel told us at the start of a test which monos or fluorocarbons would abrade through
quickly. Lines that lasted longer tended to remain silent when stressed. Why? One answer is that these
tougher lines have polymer hardening additives or antifriction coatings that allow them to glide more smoothly
over rough surfaces. Not surprisingly, these lines felt smoother or more slippery, and probably require extra
care in cinching down tightly when knotted.
Specifically, for its diameter Mason Tiger Braid was our top line for toughness, with Western Filament's aptly
named Tuf-Line a close second, based on mean cycles to break as a function of diameter. However, ranked
third among all 85 lines was our top monofilament Stren Original (proving you can't always improve on a good
thing) which far outlasted any challenger, falling just five cycles short of a phenomenal 1,300-cycle average to
break. (Its thicker diameter accounts for an abrasion-strength rating slightly below the two braids.)
Interestingly, Stren Original also scored very high in our 1998 abrasion test of 8-pound lines, finishing second.
This test again reinforces the caveat emptor rule since, for example, one braided line claims in its ads to be
500 percent more abrasion resistant than competing superbraids. In fact, it broke very unimpressively at only
slightly over 100 cycles, which in our tests makes it about 900 percent less abrasion resistant than those at
the top. Or consider Stren's Supertough. Marketed by that name, you'd have to figure that would be the most
abrasion-resistant line Stren makes, right? It lasted an average of 273 cycles versus the Stren Original at
1,295. Go figure.
Fluorocarbon leader has become popular for its invisibility in the water. But fluoro enthusiasts may want to
take particular note and, if concerned about abrasion resistance, at least get a much heavier (thicker) leader
than you'd normally use. Even the toughest fluorocarbon leaders and lines, both made by Triple fish, offered
only modest abrasion resistance (with an abrasion-resistance index of 162 vs. 730 for the best mono). Most
fluorocarbons tested dismally, lasting just 20 to 60 or so cycles on the machine versus nearly 1,300 for Stren
Original (which might be both the toughest and most economical choice for leader material).
Variance from 20-Pound
In this analysis, only absolute break strength is considered; thickness of the line is irrelevant. The idea is to
see how far off each line is from what it claims to be, in this case 20-pound. However, some explanation is
necessary since, in fact, we considered 22.2 pounds to be the correct strength. Why? Because the standards
used for line classes, recognized by recreational fishermen around the world, are those designated by the
International Game Fish Association. Given its international status, the IGFA uses kilogram ratings rather than
pound ratings. So while fishermen conveniently refer to the 20-pound class, this is technically the 10-kilogram
class, and 10 kilograms actually equals about 22.2 pounds.
Most lines (59 of 85) were somewhere over the 22.2-pound mark. In other words, they were underrated.
That's not surprising because manufacturers have long shown an inclination to underrate their lines. Why?
Good marketing and business sense. You tell fishermen they're using 20-pound test, then you put 30-pound
test on the spool (manufacturing it as thin as possible). Fishermen have no way of knowing the truth - and no
doubt many don't care - so they end up praising it as really strong 20-pound. No kidding.
Not that line manufacturers try to hide the subterfuge; some even brag in their marketing campaigns that they
have the strongest 20-pound line on the market. What these ads are really saying is, Our 40-pound mono is
the strongest 20-pound mono you can buy. On the Web site of a different manufacturer, we found a box
bragging about label rating versus actual break load that is, saying how strong the spool claims the line is and
how strong the line really is. The manufacturer boasts that its spools of 20-pound line are actually 39-pound
line, pointing out that this is nearly double the stated strength! Our question would be: Why not label the spool
39-pound test, if you know that's what it is?
In fact, 14 lines tested over 30 pounds, wet (which means that dry they'd test higher - some at least 40
pounds, probably). Again, buyer, beware. Fortunately for those who don't want to fool themselves and who
want to fish with 20-pound line that is really 20-pound line, 26 of the 85 lines tested came out at or less than
22.2 pounds wet. Purchasing lines marketed as IGFA or tournament grade should help assure you of getting
line that won't over test.
To better understand how lines are marketed to two groups of saltwater anglers - those who want to fish the
real thing and those who don't mind if their line over tests the spool strength - consider Mono Hi-Catch. Its
regular 20-pound mono line is 0.40 inch in diameter with a mean break of 24.3 pounds, while its IGFA-class
20-pound is 0.018 inch in diameter with a mean break of 22.0 pounds.
These IGFA/tournament lines also tend to be of higher quality as well (the consistency ranking indicates this)
by being more uniform, i.e., lacking irregular areas which may be too thick or, worse, too thin.
Cost
To determine street prices, we went to several large mail-order firms. We tried to price out spools at or as
close to 600 yards as possible, then figured the cost per 100 yards. That's a pretty common spool size,
though it varied quite a bit. In a few cases we had to go with spools holding a good bit more or less line, and
of course that could pull prices down or up, respectively. This is especially true for expensive fluorocarbon
leaders, some of which were available only in 25- or 30-yard spools; obviously if one could buy them in 600yard amounts, it would cost a fortune, but the per-yard cost would come down somewhat.
We couldn't get prices from our sources for all lines tested. Still, what we found offers a revealing idea of how
much cost varies among monos and braided lines. As with so many products, it also shows that money
doesn't necessarily buy happiness. We found one of our top-rated lines, Stren Original, priced at a very
reasonable $2.48 per 100 yards. Conversely, some of the more expensive lines did not rate particularly high
for abrasion and/or tensile strength.
Originally Published: Sept/Oct 2001