Korean War Memoirs of Lieutenant Guy Temple, 1st Battalion, Gloster Regiment Document kindly provided to this website by his widow, Caroline. I first saw the Imjin in the early evening of the 22nd April 1951. On that afternoon, Colonel Carne, our Commanding Officer, instructed me to lead a small patrol, the objective of which was to capture a Chinese prisoner for interrogation. American Intelligence had it that a 'small' enemy party was going to cross the Imjin River that night. The Colonel gave me very precise orders. I was to go down to the river at last light, which was about 1830 hrs. Should the enemy attempt to cross the river, we were to capture a prisoner; if however, the enemy patrol was more than thirty strong, we were to withdraw at once. At that time I had just turned twenty two and, at last, was about to do the job for which I joined up. I had been at school at Radley during the war, towards the end of it I heard that the Brigade of Guards had a scheme whereby it was possible to get a commission at the age of eighteen. I thought this was for me, so I applied and was eventually called for an interview with the Regimental Lieutenant Colonel of the Coldstream Guards, Lord Stratheden, at their Regimental Headquarters in Birdcage Walk. At the time I had a stutter and so did Lord Stratheden. After some time, it was learned that I neither hunted, shot nor fished but was accepted! However, that plan came to nought as, within a few months, the war ended and so I decided that I should go to Sandhurst. Sandhurst was preceded by four months basic training at Holywood, County Down. The unit was run by the Royal Ulster Rifles who wasted not a moment of those allotted four months. Early on I thought I was doing rather well when the Sergeant Major, in his broad Ulster brogue, said to me “Temple, youse is a really naice mahn” but spoiled it by adding “but sometimes youse is f-----g aidle”!!!! Sandhurst left me with three things. The first was an excellent grounding in driving and vehicle maintenance, the second, never to raise your hands while Scottish country dancing, and the third, and most important, was the advice from a Captain in the Lovat Scouts to the end that while it was honourable to die for your country, it was much more honourable to make the other chap die for his. I followed this advice to the letter. In December ’48 I was commissioned into the Gloucestershire Regiment and became the fifth generation of my family to serve in the Army. The first, Octavius Temple, was the eighth child of the Vicar of Penryn near Falmouth. He was an Ensign in the 4thRegiment of the Line at the battle of Toulouse in 1814 when he was only fifteen and a half. My great grandfather was in the 4thMadras Infantry in the 2nd China War but was later drowned in the River Adyar, in two feet of water. So my grandfather was brought up by his uncle, Frederick Temple, Archbishop of Canterbury. He later passed first into Sandhurst, but decided to be a Gunner and, instead, went to Woolwich. My father, who was the youngest of five brothers, was commissioned into the Gloucestershire Regiment in November 1914, and served throughout that war and the next, only losing two fingers in the process. Amazingly, all his four brothers also survived the first World War despite spending most of it on or near the Somme. After Sandhurst I joined the first battalion of the Glosters in Jamaica. Before leaving I had been persuaded to spend half a crown on insuring my kit for £100. En route, the hold containing my kit caught fire and although, not completely ruined the insurance company paid up there and then, on the dockside, with a cheque for £100. I never replaced half of it, which left me £50 to spend on my second Rolls Royce, a 1922 open tourer. I had paid £2.50 for the first one, a 1913, which I had had to share with a fellow Sandhurst cadet, as neither of us could afford the purchase price of £5!!!! I spent a very happy year in Jamaica before returning to England in 1950. This proved, for all of us, a very nasty shock. We left the sun and fun of the Caribbean on board HMT Empress of Australia for a cold and damp Colchester in January. It was with relief that we heard that the Battalion was to join the 29th Brigade and leave for Korea that September. My first appointment in Korea was Regimental Signals Officer, a position I held until about a week before the Imjin River Battle. It had occurred to me that if I was going to make a career in the army, I should grab the opportunity of getting the experience of commanding a rifle platoon in action while I could. I spoke to Tony Farrar-Hockley, the adjutant, who arranged for me to take over command of 8 Platoon of 'C' Company. That was only six days ago, and here I was, about to lead them into action without knowing them at all well. So, during the three hours left before last light on the 22nd April, myself and Corporal Manley, one of my section corporals and my second in command in this venture, were kept busy getting organised. As it turned out, my 'crystal ball' proved to be 'crystal clear'. My intuition told me that the enemy patrol was not going to be 'small'. So instead of taking three or four men, my 'small' patrol totalled seventeen men and two South Korean policemen to guard the hoped for prisoner. We took all three of my platoon's Bren machine guns, and four thousand rounds of ammunition for each. This by normally accepted standards was an enormous amount. Added to this, were a 2" mortar crew with a large quantity of parachute illuminating flares and also a signaller with his radio. Every one except the Bren gunners carried a rifle. I carried a rifle and a 'Verey' pistol to put up illuminating flares, if need be. We left for the river at about 1800 in three tracked armoured vehicles which were necessary to transport the vast weight of the ammunition. At the river bank we fortunately found some small trenches already dug, so it did not take long to position the men and the weapons. We were fairly ideally situated, looking down over the river. We were about fifteen feet up, and this, of course, leads to what is known as plunging fire. Not perfect as the killing area is significantly reduced. Anyway the weather was perfect, the temperature around 65°, a cloudless sky and a bright full moon, shining down illuminating the river. I remember remarking to Cpl. Manley that we would have no problem in seeing anyone approaching and coming across the river. He agreed with me. I had it in my mind that the Chinese would arrive on the scene around 10 o'clock. I told Cpl. Manley that he and I would take turns on duty and one half the patrol would be awake while the others could sleep. Cpl. Manley took the first shift. Sure enough, at around ten o'clock, Cpl. Manley woke me to tell me that he could hear noises in the water, but could see nothing. So I took my Verey pistol, which was already loaded with an illuminating round and fired into the air above the river. As was often the case, it was a dud. I then turned toward the mortar and quietly ordered 'para illuminating!' Almost instantly there was a 'hiss' followed by a 'pop', and then above the water was this bright light, allowing us to see about a hundred Chinese soldiers wading across the river towards us. By now, of course, everyone was awake and I gave the order to fire. The three Bren guns opened up, supported by the individual rifles. We were in a superb position and although we were firing slightly down on the enemy at short range, thus limiting the target area, we killed a significant number of them. The surviving fifty or so Chinese, then hurriedly withdrew to the north bank. Contrary to what I had expected, despite the bright moon and our pyrotechnics, it was very difficult to see people in the water. And, of course, the depth of the water meant that only the heads and shoulders of the Chinese were visible. A little bit later they made a second attempt, but this time they came in, what I reckoned to be, battalion strength, about five hundred or more men. The Bren guns again opened fire only stopping to reload, after emptying each magazine of thirty rounds. Quite soon I noticed that their muzzles were glowing red in the dark, something I had never seen before. About this time I remembered that we had been allotted a 'Defensive Fire SOS Target'. This meant that the Battery of eight 25 Pounder guns, normally assigned to our Battalion, were pre-ranged on to our specified target. All I had to do was radio the order to fire DF SOS. The duty sentry on the gun line, probably around five miles back, would immediately pull the lanyard on his gun, which in turn woke the rest of the battery who then fired their own guns, without further orders. They would then continue loading shells into the breach and firing until ordered to stop. I therefore radiod 'DF SOS Now' and in what seemed only seconds one could hear the fluttering of the shells as they went overhead and dropped into the water. They, in fact dropped on the far side of the river, so I then radioed 'Drop 100', meaning drop 100 meters. I realised that by so doing, the shells would have to come dangerously close to our position; i.e. if we stood up, the shells could take off our heads before they fell into the river. So we all kept our heads down, while the shells flew over us and fell slap into the middle of the river, doing a lot of damage to the enemy. I have to say that it was a most professional job by 45 Field Regiment RA. Utterly brilliant. A little later, when I saw that another wave of Chinese were entering the water and starting to come across, this time about 2,000 to 3,000 strong, I remembered that I could call for a ‘Mike’ Target. That meant that the whole of 45 Field Regiment would fire. I radioed in and for a short time, say half a minute, all 24 guns fired, their shells falling into the river just in front of our position. They could only do this for a very short time as the other Battalions in the Brigade, the Fifth Fusiliers, the Ulster Rifles and the Belgians, also needed fire support from their own attached Batteries of 45 Field. For the most part I was on ‘a high’, but at one time I remember thinking “this is just another exercise at the School of Infantry, Warminster and, if you look behind you, you’ll see one of the Directing Staff, clip board in hand, and at the ‘Aldershot Crouch’ ready to point out errors.” I should point out that the ‘Aldershot Crouch’ is a gentle stoop much favoured by the directing staff while the student is crawling through mud and gorse. It has the amazing quality of making them invisible to the exercise enemy! Finally, it became obvious that we were running low on ammunition, despite the vast amount we had brought with us. I also heard scuffles on our bank about 30 to 50 yards to our left. I came to the conclusion that the time had now come to retire, particularly as my orders from Colonel Carne were to withdraw if the enemy were more than thirty strong. As the Chinese were at least a hundred times that number, I gave the order to move back. We started by running the first kilometre or thereabouts, and when there appeared to be no sign of pursuit, we slowed to an ordinary march and made our way back to the area of Battalion Headquarters. About this time I lightly remarked to Corporal Manley “Cor, you might have reminded me that we were supposed to withdraw as soon as we saw upwards of forty enemy”. He replied “Well you seemed to be enjoying the party as much as I was.” My original platoon position was on a hill just forward, and 60 metres above, Battalion Headquarters. So I sent the men up the hill to re-supply themselves with ammunition, take up their old positions, and get as much rest as they could, because it was obvious that a major battle was about to begin. I stayed behind to report to Colonel Carne and Tony Farrar-Hockley. I gave them the full story, but with hindsight, I realise that I grossly under-estimated the strength of the enemy. Henry Cabral, our Intelligence Officer, was also at that debriefing. He later told me that I was “fizzing with excitement” and looked distinctly Byronesque! Something to do with the way I was wearing that long woollen scarf thing called a “cap comforter”. The following day, the 23rd of April, very little happened to 'C' Company. However, one thing did, for which I have ever since felt guilty. Wanting to see what was going on in front of us, I got out my binoculars to get a better view. In the process I handed my unfolded map to my radio operator who was standing beside me. Unfortunately, a sharp eyed Chinese sniper spotted the white back of the map, fired, and killed the signaller outright, the first member of my platoon to become a casualty. The next day, the 24th, at about 0700 hrs. I glanced down at Battalion Headquarters, and saw one of our tracked vehicles on fire. What was going on? I couldn't see a sign of life anywhere. A little later, Sgt. Major Ridlington came up to me and said that he could not find Major Mitchell, our Company Commander. If he was, in fact, missing, then it was up to me to assume command of C Company. I looked around, called all stations on the radio and got no reply at all (not an unusual occurrence, as the radios we had, were far from reliable, particularly in such mountainous terrain). I then detected some movement on the top of Hill 235 directly west of our position. I began to think that we had been abandoned. After a little more thought I decided that we should leave our hill and join whoever it was on Hill 235. I gave the order and off we went down the hill. At the bottom there was not a sign of life, except, just as we were about to start climbing the hill, we found one lone Chinese. He was the only one, so we shot him. When we reached the top of the hill, we were met by Tony Farrar-Hockley who put us in a position on the south slope of Hill 235. Shortly afterwards, Colonel Carne came up to me and said that as 'C' Company was now the strongest Company, he wanted me to lead a breakout the following day. Now Colonel Carne was a man of very few words - some people said he rationed himself to ten a day, so I just took a deep breath and replied 'Yes Sir!' If I had said anything more, I probably wouldn't have got an answer anyway. It occurred to me that this was going to be a daunting task. We would have to climb down 800 feet from the top of 235, cross the valley and climb another mountain of about the same height, while almost certainly battling hoards of Chinese. In the event, I need not have worried, as that order was soon superceded by one amalgamating C Company with a much depleted B Company under the command of Major Dennis Harding, with myself as second in command. I think I had last eaten on the evening of the 22nd and it was now the evening of the 24 and I hadn't had any food at all during that time, but I didn’t feel hungry anyway. I suppose it was because of lack of sleep. Most people would agree that the body can only register one major sensation at a time. By this I mean that one can feel either tired or hungry but not both at the same time. During the day we were being fired at by a machine gun from a distant hill to the west. It was firing tracer rounds. I was very surprised at how very slowly the bullets seemed to come and that one could actually see them coming. Eventually, these bullets were nicking the shrub about two feet in front of my face, which I found somewhat bothering. About this time, Dennis Harding said to me that our radio to Battalion Headquarters wasn't working, so would I run to them and ask if we could get some defensive artillery fire in front of our position. I ran along the ridge, only about four foot wide which meant there was no way of avoiding exposure. I covered the distance in short order. On the way back I passed Richard Reeve-Tucker who I saw had a bullet wound in the centre of his forehead. I spoke to him and he replied. This was quite remarkable. Minutes later he was found to be dead. In the event, the plan for ‘B’ and 'C' Company to lead the withdrawal was cancelled and on the morning of the 25th, the Colonel gave the order that everyone was to find their own way back. Major Harding, who was now commanding the combined 'B' and 'C' companies, passed on the order and off we all went in small groups. I went with Major Dennis Harding and Sergeant Major Ridlington and we managed to avoid capture all that day and night. The morning of the 26th was a truly beautiful morning, the only trouble was that I was hallucinating. Quite understandably I think, as I had not eaten for three days and not slept for four days and nights. My part of the battle had started at 1600 hours on the 22nd, I had been awake all through the nights of the twenty-second, the twenty-third, the twenty-fourth and the twenty-fifth. Most people had been captured on the twenty-fifth. but we stayed free for a day longer. We had seemed to have evaded the first line of Chinese and were walking on, when, at about nine o'clock in the morning, we suddenly saw one lone Chinese sentry. At once, Dennis Harding pulled out his 38 revolver, a pretty silly weapon at the best of times, and took a shot at him. Not surprisingly he missed, but almost immediately about a Battalion's worth of Chinese soldiery stood up, appearing from nowhere. Being totally surrounded, there wasn't much we could do but surrender. The sentry who had been shot at was furious - just hopping mad. However, all the other Chinese thought it was one great joke and they all broke out laughing. The poor chap was eventually appeased and the three of us were each allotted a Chinese soldier who was told to look after us. It so happened that the one who looked after me was very friendly. One must remember that our side had napalmed theirs only about twenty-four hours before and we had seen the results, which were, to put it mildly, appalling. Many people will have seen what happens when a sausage, that has not previously been pricked with a fork, is fried. The skin splits and the contents erupt – a fairly close simile, I think. Anyway, he offered me a cigarette, a roll your own of course, and pointing to his own small fox hole, indicated I should lie down on his kapok padded greatcoat and get some sleep. I did just that, getting about three hours in all. Kindness like this is, I have always thought, common place amongst front line soldiers. The hating is normally reserved to those some distance from the action. th At dusk we started walking, led and guarded by a few Chinese soldiers, and in the early morning came to an old school house. There we found Colonel Carne, Henry Cabral and about sixty other Glosters. Henry was Intelligence Officer of the Glosters and we had always been together since joining the army at the Training Battalion at Hollywood Barracks, Belfast; followed by Sandhurst, and Jamaica. That evening we again started walking North and were joined by others, not just British, but Filipinos and American. At this time I was still, frankly, quite tired. Not exhausted, but tired. Each night we walked something like ten miles. On the third night we stopped at a large Korean school house. The Chinese did not move us during the day because if they had it was probable that we would have been seen by American aircraft. We noticed that in one corner, there was a trap door in the floor. Henry Cabral opened it and saw that there was a two foot space between the floor and the ground underneath. Not far away were four or five sacks of rice chaff. Henry and I soon realised that here was the chance to escape. The plan was that we would hide under the floor and others would place the bags of chaff on top of the trap door. When the party left that night to march North, we would remain long enough to ensure no guards remained, then we would leave to go South. We were joined in this endeavour by Eddie Leach. Eddie was a Lieutenant and a tank platoon commander in the 3rd US Reconnaissance Company. Here I must admit that one of my worst fears is claustrophobia. Luckily, Henry and Eddie didn't suffer from this problem, so they went in first and I ended up directly under the trap door, which allowed me to see a chink of light along its edge which helped a bit. We also had arranged for three people, who looked slightly similar to Henry, Eddie and myself, to try to be counted twice by the Chinese when they counted their prisoners just prior to departure. This seemed to work at the beginning, but they did another count while on the march. This time coming up three short. At this point, they stopped the column, pulled out 'Jumbo' Wilson, a Gloster officer, and made him return to the school to help in the search for us. When the search party arrived back at the school, we heard Jumbo feebly calling out 'Guy, Henry, Eddie. are you there!' After a pause, we heard him say to the Chinese interpreter or someone, 'No, they aren't here', and they left. After another half hour, I cautiously pressed open the trap door, which proved easy as the sacks were very light and fell aside with no problem. We got out and left the building. It was a clear, cloudless night so we easily found the North Star and then headed off, 180°in the opposite direction. After about three hours walking, we came to a river and agreed that if we wished to keep going South, there was nothing for it but to take a swim. Being optimists, we took off our shirts and trousers and holding them above our heads waded in. As it turned out we were able to wade all the way across, finding the water not exactly cold, but shall I say 'refreshing'. We got to the other side and got dressed. We were making rather good progress and just before dawn we could see in front of us a hill, which looked as if it had good cover on it. We thought we could just about make it before daylight. We did indeed make it, but the cover turned out to be only a foot or two high. But we were there and if we lay low, no one would see us particularly as we thought no one would have any reason to come up to there. Although we didn't have any food or water, the weather was bright and sunny and we were happy and free. Free as the air. A wonderful feeling. But as luck would have it, an old Korean granny with her grandson came up the hill looking for brush wood for their fires. And would you believe it, they stumbled right on our position. It was most unfortunate. We agreed that we had three options. First we could stay were we were and allow them to go their way, and raise the alarm. Secondly, we could kill them both but as we had no weapons, we would have to do it with our bare hands. And thirdly, we could continue on, in broad daylight, and take our chances. The first option would, almost certainly, lead to recapture. The second, we were just not prepared to undertake. So the third, though not appealing, was the best option, we thought, available to us. Off we went, walking very quickly until we came across a Korean farmer. He looked at us enquiringly, and as I spoke a little Russian, I told him we were Russians on our way to the front. This seemed to satisfy him, but when I tried it again a little while later with another Korean, it clearly didn't. However, we went on towards a really tall range of mountains which were only about four or five miles ahead of us. Suddenly there were shots from all around us, over our heads but enough to make us realise that we were about to be recaptured. And captured we were. Now, the village were we where recaptured had been recently bombed by the Americans using incendiaries, and all that was left was ash. So one could reasonably expect the villagers to be somewhat less than friendly. However, I made sure that the Koreans knew that we were ‘Yongook’ (English) and not ‘Megook’ (American). We were escorted by these Korean soldiers, to another village and taken into what passed in Korea for a restaurant, and, given an exceedingly good meal. We were very surprised, as it, in fact, was by far the best meal we had eaten for what seemed a long time, and for a very long time to come. MAY ‘51 Then, from there we were taken to a civilian gaol. This gaol was not a building as such, but a cave cut into the rock face, the entrance being secured by a wrought iron gate. We were ushered in to this 'black' hole and when our eyes got accustomed to the dark, we could see that the rock floor was covered with pools of water which in turn formed little 'dry' islands. On these islands were sitting other prisoners. These were Koreans, who we discovered were Christians, and that was their crime. They had obviously been there some time because their hair was down to their shoulders, which was unusual in those days, particularly for Koreans. By using signs and much smiling, they made us feel very welcome. It wasn't till a little later that we discovered that they were covered in lice. In an attempt to isolate ourselves from this problem, we each found ourselves an 'island' completely surrounded by water. Because lice can't swim we felt a bit more secure. We stayed in this civilian gaol for three days, and were then marched North. We ended up we knew not where. However, we somehow discovered that it was from here that some other prisoners of war had subsequently been released for propaganda purposes. We agreed, among ourselves, to play our cards carefully, without in any way 'going across to the other side'. This we did, but to no avail. The Koreans then handed us over to some Chinese to whom we explained that we had got separated from the others with whom we had been captured, and then got lost. But,” here we are and of course we are very sorry for any trouble we may have caused.”. They appeared to accept this story and took us on to, what was known for some reason as the 'Bean Camp'. I never saw a bean there and all we got in the way of food was ‘goliang’and not much at that, served twice a day. Goliang, or sorghum as it is known in America, is a grain, rather like pearl barley, but with a mauvish tinge. It has a fairly pleasant neutral taste and I reckon is probably more nutritious than white rice. For the most part the British had no problem eating this goliang, but not so the Americans, who could scarcely force it down. I always supposed this was because they were either talking or dreaming about exotic meals they had eaten back in the States. Myself, I had no such memories, having spent my formative years in an English public school in wartime, where a typical lunch would be overcooked cabbage with caterpillars floating in lukewarm water, accompanied by what we called ‘Belsen Broth’ – ie bones with very little flesh on them. The Americans were always dreaming about exotic meals – T-bone steaks followed by angel food cake (whatever that may be). Many said that in the dream they were just picking up knife and fork when they woke up. There was somebody who claimed he had actually eaten the meal in his dreams. At the opposite end, and more prosaically, there were those who day dreamed about “twice round the pan and pointed at both ends”!! From the Bean Camp, the Chinese took a group of about twenty of us over what was called the ‘Glass Mountain’ in PoW parlance. We went up a long steep hill then down the other side to what was known as the 'Mining Camp', because there were plenty of signs of mine shafts, wheels and so on. There we were put in yet another school - the Chinese obviously liked to commandeer schools. At the time of arrival at the Mining Camp, I had been a prisoner for around two to three weeks. In the camp were both British and American prisoners. It was during this time that Henry and I came to the conclusion that trying to go due south was a mistake, as in Korea, the mountains tend to go East to West. This means that if one goes from the North to the South, one has to go up and down one mountain range after another, an exhausting business, particularly if one was doing it at night. However, if one went to the East or West one could go via the valleys or along the ridges, altogether less difficult to do. So, we decided that our next escape would be to go West to the Yellow Sea coast, procure a fishing boat, and sail off to freedom. The details would be worked out when we got there. We also decided that this plan would best be accomplished by six people in order to be able to push off any boat we might find. Eddie, Henry and I, Private Weller of the Glosters, Sgt. Bob Wilkins an American rear gunner of the USAF and Sgt Kenny Connacher, also American were the team. It was terribly easy to get out of the camp. This was no problem at all. There was no wire fence, so when the sentry looked one way, we went the other. Unusually, when we chose to escape, it was a very dark night, and Bob Wilkins, who was in the lead at the time, suddenly stopped. Half a pace more and he would have gone over a precipice and fallen about sixty feet. Then it came on to rain, and it rained and rained and rained, the rest of the night and all the following day. It just pelted down. There was an advantage in that we couldn't be seen from afar, so we kept walking all that day and the following night. The third day Eddie Leach and Bob Wilkins started to get very bad dysentery and Henry and I thought they were also getting pneumonia. We decided to hole up in the nearest Korean house that we could find. A difficult job, but we found what we were looking for. On entering we found two women and a small boy. They were terribly frightened as to what was going to happen to them, but we indicated that all we wanted was to warm ourselves round their fire. The little boy however, must have been told by the women to go out and get help. What happened was that we were getting nicely warm, when after about four hours shots were fired through the mud walls of the house and we realised that the game was up, yet again. Our captors were Korean and they took us back to the Bean Camp where we had been before. This time at the Bean Camp, because it was clear that we were escapees, we were put on 'permanent' burial detail This entailed digging very shallow graves and then piling stones on top of the body – we normally said a few words – usually The Lord’s Prayer. Though a humorist once said “In the name of the Father, of the Son and into the hole he goes”!! Our customers were all white American soldiers, mostly as a result of ‘give-up it is’. One thing we had noticed was that some of the white Americans were all for blaming Truman for getting them into this mess. We had earlier been joined in the ‘stockade’, as they called it, by three Americans, all black, and these three black soldiers would not have a word said against Truman, the United States, the United Nations or anybody else. In fact they were really good, sound people. Luckily, the burial detail did not last long before we were again taken over the Glass Mountain, to the Mining Camp. On our return we were confronted by the Camp Commandant, 'Grey Haired Lee' as he was known Clearly he had lost much face by our escape; now it seemed he was to have his revenge. Curtly, he informed us we would be shot. I fully believed him. We were marched up a valley with our hands tied behind our backs. The stage seemed set for the last act. Henry turned to me. 'Are you afraid?' he asked. 'Not particularly' I replied, I was too numbed. 'Funny thing that, nor am I.' he said. Again this insistent feeling of 'It can't happen to me.' Needless to say, we were not shot, but instead we were herded into a filthy twentyfour foot by twelve foot mud walled and floored hovel, with a thatched roof. While standing, our wrists were tied up with rope to a stout wooden beam. The building was divided in two equal sized square rooms with a floor to roof mud wall, the pitched roof being supported by the beam running in the long dimension. Each room had it’s own entrance door but no window. Henry, Eddie and I were put into the left hand room and the three Other Ranks in the other. We did not know how the others were faring, but it was obvious from the groans we could hear, that what they were experiencing was not pleasant. Basically we were still in fairly good physical shape. However, we were hungry, tired and wet. For the last four days we had been in the Korean civilian gaol for political/Christian prisoners. We had thought the gaol was bad enough but our present accommodation was infinitely worse, in an attempt to boost each others moral we started to talk about better times. At once there was a yell from the other side of the paper covered frame door, and two guards burst in, swinging their rifle butts viciously, hitting Henry and Eddie about the legs. For some unknown reason, I only received a glancing blow. Around midnight, as the guards had not disturbed us for some time, I cautiously began to work on the cords that bound my wrists. By standing on tiptoe it was possible to create some slack into the knot holding my wrists tightly together. Although I had little feeling left in my fingers, I was surprised that I could make progress. However, the strain of standing on my toes proved too much, causing me to stumble and fall forward. The agony of the suddenly tightening rope was only exceeded by the knowledge that all my work till then had been wasted. I realized that if I did not succeed in untying the knot soon, I would lose all feeling in my fingers. This thought made me redouble my efforts and I was rewarded, for after about twenty minutes struggle, the rope fell away. Relief was instantaneous, but the numbness remained. Henry and Eddie had also been trying to untie their ropes, but so far without success. As Henry, was the closest, I untied him first and then Eddie. We then readjusted the ropes so that if and when a guard appeared we could quickly slip the ropes back on and hope that this wouldn't be noticed. Escape at this juncture was virtually out of the question. We had had but little food in the last week and were weakening fast, and even if we had evaded the sentries, it was doubtful if we would have got very far. The thought of recapture and the ensuing punishment was so unappealing that we decided, rightly or wrongly, to remain and stick it out. The sentries did not come until morning. We were prepared for them and had retied ourselves. It was much harder than untying. In spite of being untied for about five hours it was still a long night but not to be compared to what was in store. I imagine that it was about nine o'clock when the guard came in with three small bowls of goliang. The Chinese untied us so we could eat, apparently not suspecting that we had untied ourselves during the night. The goliang was the first food we had seen for twenty-four hours and we fell upon it greedily. To us it tasted delicious. Taking the lead from Oliver Twist, we asked for more. The Chinese guard took his lead from Mr. Bumble, and his face twisted in sheer disgust. 'Mologo -pi'! he said. Later on I found he was insinuating that I was the 'son of a turtle'. We were thirsty and asked for water, and were taken out to the stream at the back of the house. It looked dirty, obviously loaded with dysentery, but I was thirsty and drank, at the same time dunking my fever hot arms in the water, almost expecting a cloud of steam to appear. I splashed it over my face and body revelling in it's coolness. A hoarse grunt from the sentry brought me back to reality. We were tied up again, this time with the hands behind the back and pinioned at the upper arm and the wrist. Unceremoniously we were pushed onto the mud floor of the hut. That fifteen minute respite and the ability to get a breath of fresh air and sunlight had been wonderful. Working on the assumption that it would be another seven hours before we were untied again, we reckoned that we must get to work on the ropes again. A different technique was called for this time as already I could feel a numbness seeping down my arms to the fingers. There was no time to waste. Within another fifteen minutes there would be no feeling in the fingers at all. Soon we realised it would be easier to untie each other and sitting back to back achieved this in a few minutes. Nonetheless the arms were considerably swollen through lack of circulation. We kept our ropes slack behind us ready to replace them should the Chinese dart through the door. Again we were all tied up the by the time evening meal arrived, anyway sufficiently so to fool the 'Soya Links'. That night we were confident - too confident. We grew sleepy and were not awake when three Chinese burst into the room. Volley upon volley of oaths were spat out when they saw we were untied. Brutally we were hustled out of the house , clubbed by rifle butts to goad us on. The Chinese seized me. One put his knee in my back forcing me to bend over backwards while the other two tied me. Once inside again they bound my legs too. I felt as helpless as an oven ready turkey. Henry and Eddie suffered the same fate. 'How are you?' asked Henry. From Eddie, always a little taciturn, 'Not good, give them time to cool off and we will have another go'. I could feel the circulation stopping. Desperately I started to struggle. It was useless. 'Let me try' suggested Henry. I eased my body back to back against his. Twenty minutes struggle made no impression on the ropes. I tried his but with equal lack of success. It was the last time I was to feel my fingers for three months. In another ten minutes they were useless. 'Oh my God' said Henry, 'I'm going to die' with a calmness that was alarming. 'Do you think it will take long'? 'You’re not going to die', I said, neither believing nor disbelieving what I said., simply knowing it should be said. 'How long will it take'? He was obviously not reassured. 'Don't think about it', was all I could think to say. 'These ropes are giving me hell', said Eddie quite calmly, but it was obvious that what he said was true, he was in Hell. I have often read in novels how, when somebody gets tied up the arms go numb and there is no feeling in them at all. This unfortunately is not the case. The fingers lose their power of feeling but the whole arm remains like a sack of red hot coals that sear and scorch. To say that the hours dragged by would be a masterpiece of understatement. Conversations started and died, all three of us seeking some form of escape from horrible reality. Eddie talked about his wife and daughter. 'When I get back to the States I'm going to give that girl the time of her life, never am I going to complain again if the toast is burnt or the egg not just right and never again ………'. He tailed off in a low moan. I must think about something, anything, just concentrate I told myself, I set myself mathematical problems and didn't do them, started counting sheep in an effort to sleep, but sleep evaded me. Hotter and hotter grew the fiery leaden weights behind my back that were my arms. Surely something must explode or burst open, I thought. Had someone at that moment offered to cut off both arms at the shoulders I would have gladly agreed. I think I must have gone into a coma. Reality changed places with unreality and it was hard to separate the two. Sometimes I was an airy spirit hovering over the shell of a man that was myself, looking at him and sympathizing with his fate, but totally divorced from his suffering. Dawn broke and with it came new hope. I looked about me. Eddies face was ashen grey beneath his heavy dark beard. His bowed head, hollowed cheeks and shrunken frame gave the appearance of a man of sixty. He had aged thirty years in a night, I thought. But he turned to me and spoke. A spark came into his eyes as he spoke of the future. The spirit was still there and willing, but the body was very weak. I looked at Henry who was still asleep, propped against the mud wall. His face haggard but a faint smile lingered over his lips. Where was he? Portugal, reliving his boyhood. England or Jamaica; it didn't matter - he was happy. With a start he awoke blinking at the unaccustomed light. 'I suppose it's about six o'clock now.' 'Yes.' I agreed, 'about four hours to chow.' How to pass the time till then. We looked out of the door. An old woman was toiling past with a vast load of sticks piled on her back. She glanced at us through the gap in the paper that covered the door, but the sentry motioned her on. I looked at the walls, they were covered with sheets of Korean newspapers and on each appeared a picture of the smug, self satisfied face of Kim Il Sung. This was the first thing I saw on waking and the last thing at night. Breakfast, the usual bowl of goliang, was brought to us at about ten o'clock, but on being untied I found I was quite unable to eat it with the spoon they provided. In fact I could do nothing with my hands, both my wrists had dropped and I could only just move my fingers. Food I must have, I thought, that was my first consideration. I grovelled on my knees and attacked it like a dog. 'Hey, what's up?' called Eddie. 'I can't hold a spoon' I replied. 'Let's have a look at your arms', he said. He put down his bowl of goliang and rolled up the sleeves of my flannel shirt. The sight sickened both of us, the wrists were deeply lacerated and all the way up both the swollen arms was a mass of blisters, all about the size of an old penny. He rolled the sleeves down again not saying a word. 'Here eat this' he said, with difficulty loading a spoonful into my mouth. In this way the meal continued , each of us having alternate mouthfuls. Henry had fared fairly well. His left wrist was dropped and useless but his right seemed sound. He was to have his fair share of trouble though. He was let out after the 'meal' to perform his natural functions, but came back with the news that he had got dysentery. From that moment till the day he died in October, he never got rid of the problem. It was generally reckoned that if a person got dysentery and didn't get rid of it within a month, his days were numbered. Henry was a fighter and survived five months of it. We were let out to the latrine, a small reed hut just behind the hovel, one by one. When I got there I realized I couldn't undo the necessary buttons. I made signs to the guard who laughed, drew his bayonet and cut off the buttons, something that he could not have accomplished with a blunt sided British bayonet. The job completed, I staggered back again to the hut, dreading the thought of being tied up again. Two soldiers were standing there ready with the ropes. Eddie made signs to them that they shouldn’t tie me up as I was powerless as it was. For a moment I thought they were not going to, then, with a hideous smile one of the soldiers stepped towards me and started to rub his hands all the way up both arms. The agony was indescribable as the blisters burst and the skin tore away. To complete it they tied me up again, the ropes biting easily into the gashes as before. Five minutes latter, Henry wanted to go to the latrine again, so he shouted to the guard 'Shobyen' (which needs no translation), but the guard only laughed and turned away. Again Henry implored him but to no avail. Our latrine now became 'en suite.’ To start with the flies had been bad, now they increased a hundred fold. That evening we were to have a slight change from the monotony. Grey Haired Lee, the Camp Commandant, came up and ordered us all outside. Kenny, Bob and Weller were led outside from the other room - it was the first time we had seen them since being separated. Their faces were haggard and the strain was obviously telling. We started talking but were shut up forcibly. Lee harangued us, in English adequate to the task, for half an hour or so on the seriousness of our crime, and at the end decided that we, the officers, were the leaders and the others merely our dupes. He ordered them to be untied and taken back to the main camp. Henry, Eddie and I were to remain tied, but this time Eddie was to be put alone in the room that the others had been in, and Henry and I were left together in our old room. I was sorry that Eddie had left us but glad that I at least had Henry for company. The night passed with it's usual endless agony. On waking I realised that the smell in the room was even stronger than usual. It was my arms rotting. When we were untied, Henry rolled back my sleeve. The shapeless limbs were a greenish yellow mass of suppurating broken skin. I asked Henry to leave the sleeves up so that the air might get at the arms and dry them up. Our meal was the usual goliang. Henry was feeding me taking alternate mouthfuls himself. Then something happened that was more than unusual. One of the Chinese guards, a boy with pleasant open features entered the room and insisted on feeding me himself. It seemed to me then that he couldn't have employed more loving care than if I had been a child and he was my mother. Each mouthful was watched with smiles of approval. At that time his behaviour didn't really strike me as strange - we were prepared for anything to happen. The meal finished, we were tied up again. That evening the mental torture began. Eddie was taken down to the village and interrogated for four hours. They wanted him to confess that in reality he was a spy, but this he refused to do. Days became blurred into each other, I couldn't rightly say when it was that I realised that gangrene had set into my arms, but it was probably the time when I saw a Korean walking past, cross to the other side of the road and hold his nose. When a Korean did that it had to be a pretty powerful smell. The thought that I might lose my arms didn't really disturb me. In fact when a guard made signs of amputation I merely nodded agreement. There was however one factor which I had not taken into account, and that was the flies. One particularly hot afternoon they had been consistently buzzing round my arms, and when we were untied for the evening meal I realised that they had left their eggs on my arms. By morning these were hatched out and both arms had a wriggling mass of squirming maggots from wrist to armpit. 'You’re lucky' said Henry. 'Lucky? I said, 'how'? 'Well, they'll eat the gangrene out and keep it clean.' From then on I had constant company, I even passed hours watching these creatures crawl up and down my arms, fascinated in spite of myself. By now the Chinese had agreed that I was powerless to do anything and had not tied me up, Henry and Eddie they left tied. What was galling was that I was quite unable to help them. Now however they didn't seem to be in much pain. It almost appeared that they had got used to being tied up and seemed to know no other life. One day whilst absorbed in watching my maggots I realised that some of them were going red in colour. To me this could only mean they were eating good flesh. Clearly they must be thinned out. At dusk I used to scrape them off against a convenient nail in the door frame. Henry dug out some of them with a straw and it was then that I realized I had two large holes in my wrists through which when cleared of maggots, I could see right to the bone and see all the tendons working when I moved my fingers. I was not the only one. By this time Eddie and Henry had also been untied. They did not have holes in the wrists but both had what appeared to be yawning chasms in their upper arms. In point of fact they were about two inches across and an inch deep. Two or three days passed by in idleness. We were now allowed to talk freely to each other. Henry had managed to keep with him a small pocket New Testament. He had picked it up off the battlefield after being taken prisoner and had managed to keep it ever since. From this we derived much comfort. Without worldly possessions one occasionally felt very close to the Almighty. On several occasions we were subject to interrogations, these were mostly quite mild, and of the “Who started the war and why did you?” variety. Almost simultaneously I remember Henry and I discovered that scabs were beginning to form on our arms. Joy upon joys we were healing! This was good news and on the strength of it we decided to dismiss our remaining maggots. Some were reluctant to go and found themselves odd corners where they hid for days before finally being winkled out. The Chinese were always full of surprises. But the greatest surprise was when one evening a Chinese, speaking perfect English, brought us a large bundle of leaf tobacco, all neatly wrapped in the 'Shanghai News'. Henry and I were not smokers at that time but not so Eddie. Deftly he rolled us each a Super King Size cigarette. About six inches long they were, and we were still smoking them about half an hour later. Another surprise was in store. Later that evening, (everything happens at night to a POW of the Chinese), another Chinese came and saw us. He bade us to 'Pack your everything, come, uh.' This was the standard phrase used by the Chinese when they wanted us to go somewhere. 'Looks like a Chogi some place', said Eddie. Chogi was the Korean for 'there', but came to mean, in prisoner parlance 'a journey', owing to the fact that the guards would frequently use it to mean that the destination was at hand, when nearly always there was another six miles or more to go. To obey the first part of the Chinese guard's order was simple. We had nothing to pack. The second part was not so easy. We had become very weak and for the first time realized how thin we were. Our clothing flapped loosely about us. I suppose our journey was only a mile, but it took us, I imagine, at least three hours. We didn't know were we were going and were resigned to an all night march, when we were motioned to a turning off the road and began climbing a steep hill. Complete exhaustion had almost overtaken us when we found ourselves opposite a substantial concrete building looking rather like an air raid shelter. We were informed it was a hospital. A Korean girl, dressed in standard Korean army uniform with a Red Cross armband, led us inside. Like all Korean girls she was short and stocky, but unlike all, it seemed there was a spark of kindness in her broad Mongolian face. She spoke a few words of English and soon made it plain to us that her opinion of the Chinese was not high. Without further loss of time she deftly swabbed our arms and bandaged them up. It was wonderful to feel at least partly clean again. From then on our arms healed up surprisingly quickly though it was to be another three months before I could so much as hold a pen to write my name. Thus ended one of the worst episodes in our lives as POW's, but that was by no means the end of the story. I should include at this point a flattering reference to us in Conley Clarke’s book p168 “Late that afternoon, the officers got their first good look at the two British officers who had been kept so close to them, but out of sight. The two officers came down the street under heavy guard. Both looked cheerful and walked easily. They were very thin, and thongs which had bound them at the wrists and above the elbows had cut deeply into their flesh. Bones and tendons were exposed at several places.” That we were very thin there was no doubt. To each other we looked like those photographs of Belsen survivors. I could join the tips of my thumb and forefinger round my wrist and then move up to the elbow without letting go; the same applied from above my elbow to my shoulder. END MAY ‘ 51 From there we three were taken to the notorious Pak's Palace, a North Korean Army interrogation centre run by a Major Pak. I spent seven and a half months at Pak’s Palace. The record for anyone. The first two months was spent in interrogation by ‘The Professor’ mostly about radios. (The Professor was so named because he had been one at Seoul University before the war) Day and night it went on and on, it was difficult to lie and not get caught out. Eventually it occurred to me that I was being unnecessarily virtuous in not telling them what they wanted to know. The 19 set and the 62 set that we had used, had both English and Russian writing on them, implying that similar sets had been sent to Russia during the 2nd World War. The 31 set, a VHF platoon set, was so unreliable, that if the communist world were to copy it, they would be doing themselves more harm than good. The Professor was probably the only interrogator to have, what appeared to be, a touch of humanity. (Much later on I discovered that he had been instrumental in the removal of “Spud” Gibbons finger nails before I arrived there.) . One day after a particular stormy session he said 'Well I think we have quarrelled enough, now tell me about the Canadian Navy', knowing full well that I knew nothing about it, and solemnly proceeded to take down the outrageous particulars I gave him. ‘Sixteen battleships, thirtytwo cruisers, sixtyfour destroyers and submarines.’ All 'graduates' had to draw maps of something. I was asked by the sergeant, we called the “map sergeant” - 'You have been to London?'. 'Yes', I replied. 'Very well, draw me a plan of London docks, giving me the measurements of every building and the colour of the roofs'. I said it was impossible, but the interrogator said rather flatteringly “You are a British Officer and so must know everything”. I still demurred, with the result that I was placed in a hole in the ground with a pistol held close to my head. I soon saw the error of my ways and said that I could do what was required after all. I started by being, as I thought humorous, by putting in Coca-Cola machines and things like that. When one had to draw the same map three or four times, I soon realised it didn't pay as I could never remember where I had put things. Amongst others stock questions there was frequently the old favourite. 'Who started the war and why did you?' or for pilots, 'What happens when you press the button?' This was the ejection switch they were referring to. (I was told, by an American, that some Korean or Chinese had 'pressed the button’ on a shot down plane, and was propelled through the canopy and came down 'deader than a mackerel'). When the Russians turned up, dressed in blue suits, white shirts, without collar or tie and wearing Trilby hats, then the questions would be more sensible, otherwise they were absurd in the extreme. There were two other interrogators at Pak’s Palace, one was called ‘four eyes’ on account of his bright blue spectacles. He was fat, pompous and strutted about the place. The other was, of course, Major Pak himself, an evil looking little man. I was very glad I had nothing to do with either of them. There were about fifty United Nations men of all races there, and the death rate for so small a community was pretty high. After some two months a list of about twenty names were read out and we were told that they would be going North. Henry's name was one of them and mine was not. The 'Professor' was standing there so I asked him if I could join the party, as Henry and I had always been together. He said 'No' and added that I would be better off where I was. At the time I didn't believe him, but he proved to be right. Henry left, to be marched up North. He died on the way, his body being flung into a ditch. Eddie remained to die at Pak's and, because we hadn't the energy, we buried him in the same shallow grave as a U.S. Air Force Colonel who had died that morning. Oddly enough, someone had already commented that Eddie looked bad, and that we might have to do just that. Some had been horrified by what they thought was his callous approach but his forecast was 100% accurate. September 51 Anyway both my escaping companions were dead. I looked around for another 'buddy' .One must always have a buddy. George Morar was a USAF B26 rear gunner sergeant, who was badly burnt on the face and arms, his hair also had burned away so all he had was some white stubble, and he was very thin,. But he was tough. I later discovered that, before joining the Air Force, he had worked as slaughterman in Chicago, not a place for those with delicate feelings. We teamed up, with a promise that if one of us should fall sick, the other would 'pull out all the stops' to help him. Together we did the nursing of the sick. Our record was not good. One hundred per cent fatalities was the score. It was hard to know whether the deaths were due to give-up-it is or starvation. It would probably surprise most people to know that when a person is starving he is not hungry, and, in fact, it is very difficult to either persuade, or force him to eat. I also think that the converse is true, meaning that when a man is hungry he is not actually starving. Some time after the war George left the USAF and set up a parachute school. I was very sorry to hear that only a short while later he died when his parachute failed to open. October 51 Slowly our numbers dwindled. That tower of strength and rugged individualist, Felix Ferranto, of the US Marines had gone, so had Fabien Felice, the French adjutant. Poor Gobert, the Belgian nineteen years old, with a wife in Japan, had died, so had Digger Madden, the Australian, talking of God's Own Country till the last. Fabien Felice had been the one who had contracted dysentery on the same day as myself. We had counted up to fifty trips each to the latrine before we lost count. Added to the awfulness of the disease was the fact that the sentry would only allow one person to go out to the latrine at one time. This resulted in frequent shouts from Fabien of “Depechez-vous, mon lieutenant” and my reply of “Un moment, mon adjutant.” Weren’t we formal? After repatriation I had a card from Fabien saying that he had married again and was very happy. Later on I learned that he was at Dien Bien Phu, but after that nothing. As winter drew on so interrogation dwindled. Our job now was to collect wood for the camp staff and to dig what we originally thought were bomb shelters, but turned out to be clamps for storing the local cabbage. Even now we were only dressed in what we had been captured in. I was wearing just a flannel shirt, a pair of battledress trousers, no underwear, a pair of boots with holes in the soles and no socks. I found it particularly cold when ice rolled off the log I was carrying down the back of my neck. During the previous winter when 1 Glosters were at Pyongtek the temperature had dropped to minus 48 degrees centrigade, this seems to have been an aberration but even so one can assume that it was probably in the region of minus 30 degrees. It was then that my leg went septic, after being hit by a log. Realising that I could hardly walk, let alone work, I was made permanent cook, and Larry whose arm was also poisoned was allowed to do the chopping of the firewood. This was considered real humanitarianism. Everyday Larry and I were escorted over to the 'Honcho's kitchen to collect our rations, i.e. rice for the day. Now Larry was dressed in an old Chinese greatcoat over his nakedness and a pair of boots. Nothing else. All his clothes had been burned when his plane had been on fire as it was shot down. This coat had large pockets which he used to fill with 'daikons' (a sort of large Radish) whilst I used to divert the Ajimoni’s attention. Ajimoni literally means ‘Auntie’ but seems to be used for cook/housekeeper. She used to hiss at me, like a snake. Not all Korean females were like the Ajimoni. One day I was trying to haul a tin can of water out of the well, and clearly making heavy weather of it. A little girl aged, I suppose, nine or ten, smilingly took the rope from my hands and had the can full and on the ground in a trice. Amongst my other tasks was that of improving, with George Morar, the English of some Korean Sergeants. This was really quite enjoyable. We were allotted about six sergeants each and told to report on their progress at the end of the day, I must admit their reports had a curious way of being closely connected to the amount of food and/or tobacco they produced for us. One sergeant failed to produce any present at all, so I gave him a very bad report and had the satisfaction of seeing him in the hole I had once been in! I should mention that, unlike the Chinese, the Korean officers were great respecters of rank, whether Korean or enemy. The Chinese told everyone, of whatever rank, that they were now one of the “peace loving peoples of the world”.It was a pleasant change from digging clamps. George and I would sit there smoking 'tailor made' cigarettes and spreading good capitalistic propaganda the while. The Korean Majors soon realized what was happening and this was stopped after a few days. Once more back we went to chopping trees and digging holes in frozen ground. November 51 At this point I realized I had scurvy as my teeth became loose and my gums bled. This was my fourth disease, the others being jaundice, dysentery and beri-beri. The latter problem was caused by lack of vitamin B. Fortunately the cure was at hand. On the way to the latrine was a sack of rice husks for the pig in the latrine to eat. (It should be explained that all Korean families have this peculiar habit of feeding their pigs on human excrement. Thus the pig, normally a lean and rangy beast, would be in the pen below one. When using the latrine a, not infrequent occurrence would be to find the pig snapping at one’s vitals). A mouthful of husks now and again, while the sentry wasn't looking, and my beri-beri was cured after three days. It was a blessing for us that Chris Lombard, a South African pilot, got shot down when he did. He was big and strong and with all the toughness of the Boer Vortrekkers He was just the tonic to morale we needed and nobody dared to give up and die when he was around. A curious incident happened to Chris and myself. Following Soviet custom with former Czarist officers, and Chinese communist custom with former Nationalist officers, the “Professor” offered me command of a North Korean Infantry battalion (heady stuff for a young lieutenant) and Chris command of a squadron of MiG 15s. He explained that both of us would have a political commissar to keep us straight. For a very short while Chris and I considered the possibility of me hopping on to his MiG and flying to freedom. Then we realised it could all go horribly wrong and end up at dawn in the Tower of London!! In short we declined, which did not seem to to surprise the “Professor”. December 51 This was December '51 and the time when the North Koreans thought the war had ended. To cries of 'Changey, Changey' from the guards and with only a modicum of hope in our hearts that the war was really ending we, the remaining ten, marched out of the gate carrying, on an improvised stretcher, Colonel Hugh Farler, a U.S. Air Force navigator, who was too weak from beri-beri to walk. Throughout that night we trudged. Chris was at one end of the stretcher, while Larry with his septic arm, George with burns all over his body, Walt with mammoth boils and myself with a septic leg and damaged wrists, taking turns at the other. Chris saying to Hugh, 'Now if we carry you, don't you bloody well die!' We must have been a sorry sight. Early next morning, we arrived at our destination, a place known by its inmates as the Peace Camp, but we came to call it “Traitor’s Row”. Again we were informed by a Korean General that we were going home. At the end of a long harangue in Korean, he stated 'how nice it has been to have you'. Hugh did not survive the good news and died later that day, where upon Chris said to Hugh, “ I told you not to bloody well die and now look what you’ve done”. It was callous of us, but I remember we all laughed. We stayed another three days at Traitor’s Row, taking good care to distance ourselves from the original inmates. It was quite clear that they had been ‘turned’ and had been actively supporting the enemy. I did hear that Marine Condron had even been making broadcasts. After the three days about eight of us were taken by truck far north to Camp 5 on the banks of the Yalu river. We arrived at night and were put in a small building a little distance from the main camp. It was then that the strength of the British Army regimental system came to the fore. Somehow, the corporals and private soldiers, who were inmates of Camp 5, came to know that we were there. Gradually, mostly one at a time, the senior member of each British regiment made their way to our house at some risk to themselves. They reported verbally with the names and condition of the other soldiers of their unit. I remember being very moved by this. But, there was one snag – none of us had pencil or paper, so I had to try to commit the details to memory. A few days later we were supplied with an air letter card and a pen to write our first letter home. In order that it should get past the Chinese censor and, that word should get back that I was alive, I wrote a glowing report of conditions here. But then, of course, things were vastly different from Pak’s Palace anyway. I think we only stayed there some five days before being taken by truck to Camp 2, the Officers’ Camp. This was again a school that had been taken over by the Chinese. At once I was greeted by the Glosters there and it was Jumbo Wilson who told me about Henry Cabral’s death on their march up. This was a blow as I felt I could have saved him, had I been on that march with him. The ‘Professor’ back at Pak’s Palace had been right when he had said that I might well be better off remaining there, instead of going on the march north as Henry did. I was shown to my room, a former class room, where my sleeping area was on the wooden floor between Randle Cooke of the 8thHussars and Carl Dain of 45 Field Regiment RA. They both made me very welcome, as did Bob Hickey and Doug Patchett and indeed all the other 20 or so who were in the same room. The sleeping space was just enough for one thin man and, of course, we all fell into that category. There were no pillows, but we were given a kind of quilt which was luxury indeed. However, an advantage of being so close to one’s neighbours did mean that one gained a little heat thereby. The date was probably around the 15th December ’51 as I was able to write a letter to my parents on the 19th December. I mentioned that, the previous week, I had received their letter written in September. I was also able to say that we had just been given padded clothing. I had been absolutely delighted to get rid of my battle dress trousers and shirt that I had not changed since some time before the Imjin battle i.e. early April, making it almost exactly 8 months of continuous wear. Nor had I washed my body or cleaned my teeth. Oddly enough I don’t think we did smell, or perhaps we all smelt the same, and just did not notice it. My only contribution to personal hygiene had been to strip daily and search for lice which always lurked in the seams. These I killed, in the approved manner, between my two thumb nails. Much later I discovered that my parents only got to know that I was still alive and a PoW on the 22nd December ’51. They were based in Rangoon at the time, but were actually on a ship to Singapore. The Services Mission at Mingladon had got the news from the War Office and sent it by Marconigram to the ship. Letters and new clothing marked an enormous change from Pak’s Palace. From now on life was liveable. The food too, was a big improvement as we were now given pork once a week, albeit, not very attractively presented. It came in the form of soup with a few small chunks of pork complete with bristles. Oddly enough, in spite of the improvement in food, it was now that the problem of night blindness made itself felt. This is apparently caused by a deficiency of vitamins A and D. I can’t speak from personal experience, because, amazingly enough, and very fortunately, I never suffered from it. In fact, I was one of the ‘locomotives’, so called because last thing at night, we used to take a ‘train’ to the latrines. The train was formed by the locomotive in front with about seven or eight men, who could not see where they were going, with their right hand on the shoulder of the man in front. As one might imagine, there were calls of “the train standing at platform 1 is for Edinburgh via Cockfosters” and the like. This was followed by “Hoot, hoot” and off we set. I cannot remember how we celebrated Christmas – perhaps not much. But, I think, Sam Davies our padre, was allowed to hold a service. One thing I do recall was when Sam and I and one other were standing by the main gate, above which was a large red communist star. The other person remarked “Ah,- the star of Bethlehem”. “Not so” said Sam “the star of Satan, you mean”. Morning roll call used to take place on the school play area below some steps. The camp commandant and the interpreter stood at the top of the steps. Thecamp commandant was a tired old man obviously close to retirement, but the interpreter, Zee, was a very sharp ‘wide-boy’ from Shanghai. Frequently the camp commandant would make a speech – invariably dull and full of platitudes. One day, Geoffrey Costello, a very tall, one-eyed Gloster, and Larry Taft, a heavily bearded dour US Marine aviator decided to make a skit of this performance. Larry, as the camp commandant, started off with “Mintien (tomorrow in Mandarin) digga-digga urshey bar”. This was ably translated by Geoffrey as “Tomorrow, umm, umm, will be Thursday”. When Geoffrey translated the next sentence as “the next day will be Fliday”, the audience fell about laughing. And this included Zee, the interpreter, who had just arrived! Another cause for laughter was Johnny Thornton, a diminutive US Navy pilot who sometimes pretended to be a helicopter. This entailed wearing a skull cap made from an old cap with the peak cut off and a moving wood propeller on top and zooming around the camp making brrrm-brrrm noises. Thereafter, he was known as ‘Rotorhead’ Thornton. 1952 The Christmas snow lasted throughout January and February but it had thawed enough to have a St Patrick’s day football match – Irish v English. The ground was very muddy, and the game, which started as soccer, ended up as rugger! I remember how much we all enjoyed it. Needless to say, there was not a drop of alcohol with which to celebrate the occasion! This was the first time I had played football in captivity. The timing was fortunate as the event occurred just before we were given another letter card to write home, so I was able to tell my parents about it, and later learned that they had received the letter. The reliability of mail getting through in either direction was very suspect. Graeme Lutyens Humfrey never did get a letter in the whole two and a half years he was a prisoner, so we were both surprised when, in May, I got one from his mother. I always felt that the reason some people’s mail did not aarive was because they were too accurate in their description of the Chinese and their treatment of us. I particularly wanted my mail to get through, because, apart from the obvious reason, they also contained coded messages. Some time in the summer of ‘52 an annex to Camp 2 was made a little way up a valley about three miles away in a westerly direction. We presumed this was to avoid overcrowding. The camp was built of mud, pine and thatch by local labour supervised by Chinese. There was an idea that PoWs should help in the construction, something I personally would have welcomed, as it would have provided much needed exercise, interest and job satisfaction. The other point of view was that PoWs should make it as difficult as possible for our captors, thus keeping more Chinese soldiers in back areas and away from the front line. Well, that was the theory, though I did not subscribe to it, particularly as it seemed to involve somebody being labelled as a ring-leader or ‘reactionary’. I always thought that one should keep a low profile, so that there would be less chance of escape preparations being detected. I had always been quite clear that the foremost duty of any officer was to escape. During the past six months, as our diet had improved, so had my general fitness and my dropped wrists had almost recovered, leaving me only with scars on my wrists and upper arms, and pins and needles and sensation loss in my finger tips, all of which I still have fiftyfour years later. Anyway this meant that I could now entertain the idea of an escape. To this end, I spent much of the daylight hours walking round and round the exercise area. This was a dirt space between the huts and the perimeter fence, I suppose it measured about 100 by 50 yards. I used to do this mostly with friends, Carl Dain, Vance Drummond, a pilot from New Zealand and Donald Allman in particular. I was particularly grateful to Carl Dain; he was something of a boffin. When he found out that I was still set on the idea of escape, he made me a compass, the needle of which was fashioned from the metal arch support of a US army boot. A popular time for many people was between morning roll call at 8 o’clock and breakfast at 10 o’clock. The second and last meal of the day was at 5 o’clock. In between, it was possible to get hot water for drinking from the cookhouse. Many people pretended to themselves that they were enjoying a cup of tea. Myself, I preferred cold boiled water even though its natural taste had been boiled out of it. There were a number of people who took little or no exercise. In the main these fell into four groups, the card players, the musicians, the chatterers and the dedicated sleepers. The card players were mostly American with a sprinkling of British. The musicians were Randle Cooke and an Afrikaner pilot by the name of Hector Macdonald. These two had managed to make guitars out of very basic materials. Of the tunes they played I remember Hector playing ‘Sarie Marais’, ‘die Alabama’, Zulu Warrior’ and a rugby song whose chorus was ‘na die, na die pale to’. ‘Sarie Marais’ and ‘Alabama’ I learnt in Afrikaans and still remember them. The only tune I remember Randle playing was ‘So long it’s been good to know you’. Another musician was John Ory, a Hungarian American, who had made himself a violin, but could only play ‘Turkey in the straw’. This he did endlessly. The sleepers, well perhaps there was only one, and that was Bert Marsh of the Royal Ulster Rifles. He managed to sleep most of his two and a half years captivity away. The prime example of the chatterers were Pappy and Pepe. Pappy was Pappy Green, a Texan with a face resembling a cartoon of a witch in a children’s story, with a very prominent nose and jaw. Pepe was Isidore Pepe, an Italian American. These two had had the misfortune to be captured just a few days after the war had started. Together they had survived the winter march north, when many of their number had died of starvation and cold. They had also managed to avoid the attention of a Korean officer known as the ‘Tiger’, who apparently used to shoot prisoners of war on a whim. Anyway these two were just about inseparable, and were always to be seen talking animatedly to each other as though they had just met at a party. They were in the same room as me, so I was able to observe this at close quarters. Aside from these groups there were six Turks. Five were officers and one was a private soldier called Naffi, he was rated an honorary officer and therefore reactionary because he was reputed to have murdered a Chinese guard. How he got away with this, I know not, but Communism has the idea that ‘minorities’ have to be looked after. To this extent, when the Turks made it known that they spoke no English, the Chinese sent for an interpreter. He eventually came from some remote part of the Communist empire, and when he did, the Turks pretended not to understand him, and so he started on his long way home! I must say that I have always been impressed by Turks. Two instances come to mind, both before capture. The first was when I was making a liason visit as they were the next unit. It was dusk, and a column of refugees were coming down the road. The Turks opened up with their machine guns. When I pointed out that they were civilians I received the short reply “All communists” and they started firing again. Of course, this probably was the safest option as these columns frequently concealed disguised North Korean infantry. The second incident, which I only saw after the event, was when a Brigade of Turkish infantry, having declined an offer of artillery support by the Americans, attacked a Chinese position using bayonets only and killed some three hundred Chinese for the loss of three of their own. And so we passed the time in our separate ways, with myself getting fitter by the day. One really enjoyable occupation was carrying logs back from a jetty on the Yalu River. I note from a letter I wrote, and that my parents kept, that I had a swim on 23 May ’53, and found it cool but refreshing! On one occasion we became aware that, in a house by the side of the road, was a recently shot down American pilot. Any attempt to talk to him was rapidly stopped by both our guards and his. Down at the Yalu jetty we devised a way of talking to him by chanting our bits of news and advice we had for him. This worked fine, as, of course, Chinese communists are used to atonal dirges! On another occasion, we communicated to the tune of the Chinese Communist ode to Chairman Mao, the first line of which we knew as “Who flung dung at Mao Tse Tung”. Reading matter was truly scarce. There was the odd copy of the Shanghai News or the London Daily Worker which most of us shunned. But there was a grand total of six communist approved books. I can only remember War and Peace, Maxim Gorky’s ‘Mother’, a Charles Dickens and a John Steinbeck. The last three were too depressing for me, but I put my name on the waiting list for War and Peace and got it after about three weeks. I delighted in it, and by dropping everything else, finished it within seventytwo hours. I have since come to the conclusion that this is the only way to read such a book, as that way one does not lose the plot or get confused by the patronymics. As to escaping, the main problems were firstly lack of food. We did, however, reckon we could eat and digest green field corn in July. Then the terrain made going difficult because the mountains all tend to run East/West, and, of course, our direction was South. Movement had to be entirely by night, as our clothes and even our gait was so different from the locals. And the climate meant that winter was out of the question as the temperature could go down to minus 40 degrees centigade. In July of my first year of captivity I was at Pak’s Palace, the second I was busy trying to get fit and, by the third, although reasonably fit there were such strong rumours of the peace talks at Panmunjon, succeeding, that it did not seem a good idea. 1953 Finally after about a year and nine months in the two camps near the Yalu river, came the day when we were ordered into trucks and taken to a railway station. Here we got into cattle trucks with open doors and made our way down south. I can honestly say that when our train stopped on a particularly rickety wooden bridge with a river canyon below it, was one of the few times I felt frightened in Korea! I suppose we spent about ten days at a tented holding camp near Kaesong waiting for each evening when a list of names of the next day’s repatriates was read out.We whiled away the days by washing, then cleaning our teeth and then cleaning them again. We all delighted in the soap, toothbrush and toothpaste we had been given. Two and a half years is a long time to go without cleaning one’s teeth. Eventually the great day came when the ‘reactionaries’ were exchanged. It was the first of September ’53, we walked on air – a hackneyed phrase, but accurate, over Freedom Bridge. There was a Royal Military Police sergeant wearing his red cap and we knew then that we had made it. One of our number, a private soldier, was so overcome by the sight, that he rushed up to him and gave him a bear hug with the words “ Oh, you beautiful thing” – a greeting not normally accorded to the Military Police. At Freedom Camp we discarded our Chinese clothing, had a shower, were de-loused and then put on British Army jungle green uniform. The following morning we went by air to Kure in Japan. Here we were accommodated in the British Army camp. The rooms were exceedingly comfortable and were well looked after by Japanese chamber maids, who all seemed to answer to the name of ‘poppet san’- ‘san’ being a word signifying respect. That evening some of the sisters from the British Military Hospital thought some of us should join them for a swim in the sea. I do not remember from where we acquired swimming trunks but I do remember that the beach was lovely white sand and that the sea was beautifully warm. One way or another we spent the rest of the evening there, I suppose we ate something but once again my memory has deserted me. The following day we had some kind of debrief/interrogation by a Major in the Intelligence Corps. He showed us some maps of North Korea, also some air photos of the various camps. It was interesting to see where Pak’s Palace had been. A slightly more detailed medical examination took place, but this did not interfere with our free time. We even went to the US camp and saw our friends in their hospital beds, now undergoing all kinds of tests. We reckoned our RAMC doctors had been much cleverer when they prescribed a good party rather than wingeing on a hospital bed! Some four of us took a train to Tokyo. A shopping trip down the Ginza and most of the night in a night club soon got Tokyo out of our system! The following evening we all embarked on HMT “Empire Orwell”, and began the six week trip to Southampton. I was in a cabin for eight officers, one of whom was Geoffrey Costello. It was he who went up to the Ship’s Captain and asked him to arrange for drinks to be served to our cabin any time in the 24 hours. To our amazement this was granted – the only place on the ship that such drinking hours applied. On the first night on board, at our table at dinner, Geoffrey upset the steward waiting on us, by leaving his glass eye winking upwards from his empty brandy and ginger glass. The steward rushed away, hands clasped to mouth and only reappeared much later! Our first stop was in HongKong. This was the place where, ‘H’, a reservist, who I had defended at his court-martial for desertion in the face of the enemy, had served his sentence of four months detention, whilst I, a little later, started my ‘sentence’ of two and a half years as a PoW! The story was thus. Some three weeks before the Imjin battle I was required to be H’s defending officer. The battalion was in reserve and, as Signals officer, I reckoned communications and all our radios were in good order, so I had plenty of time to prepare his case. I listened to his story and was convinced that his only hope lay in pleading guilty with a plea in mitigation. To this end I borrowed from Bob Hickey, our Medical Officer, a book on psychiatric disorders, and closely studied the chapter on anxiety neurosis. The court martial took place in a tent some way back. “May it please the court”, I began in the traditional manner. Thereafter I was so carried away that I experienced a sort of ‘out of body’ sensation, and found myself looking down on this eloquent orator describing H’s torment at being the only remaining son of his mother, who had lost, not only three sons, but her husband as well, in World War 2. H was in tears and so, also, was the Prosecuting Officer. This I counted a rare achievement; so rare that I doubt it has happened before or since. Finally, I came down to earth to hear the court martial president congratulate H on his choice of defending officer, and then sentence him to a mere four months detention; lenient, considering that it had, until fairly recently, been a capital offence. The trip to Hongkong was five days. It was only a four hour stop-over and as I was orderly officer I did not get ashore. My first task was to receive on board six British soldiers, who as PoWs, had collaborated with the enemy, or so it was alleged. They had been on a previous ship, but because of the danger from the other soldiers, had been disembarked at Hong Kong to await the arrival of the Empire Orwell. There were a number of soldiers who had decided not to go on shore leave and they made it very clear that the six were not welcome on the Orwell. I decided there was only one thing to do and that was to commandeer a spare cabin. This I did, and placed the orderly sergeant, Sergeant Sexton on guard outside. I knew him quite well, as before being called up as a reservist, he worked as a taxi driver at Colchester railway station and I had often used his taxi to get back to Camp. In Korea he had been posted to the Anti-tank platoon and drove an Oxford tracked gun-tower. Many was the time we passed and I got the cheery greeting of “Taxi, Sir?” Anyway these ‘misguided six’ remained under my control until Singapore where I had requested they be disembarked to await another ship. “Just as well you did that” remarked a Northumberland Fusilier “our plan was to throw them overboard just off the Isle of Wight where it would be nice and foggy”!! In fact the British Army took an enlightened view of ‘the six’, reckoning that being united with their families would be the best way for them to see the error of their ways Back up on deck in HongKong overlooking the gangway I was joined for a chat by Rifleman McNab, previously a runner-up Army heavy-weight boxing champion. Suddenly he spotted one of his mates – a Gloster – being frog marched on board by two Royal Military Police. With the words “Nobody does that to one of my mockers” he dashed down below on to the gang plank, grabbed the two RMP by the neck, banged their heads together and pushed them into HongKong harbour. At once two more RMPs rushed up to arrest him. One got a left fist and the other a right, and then there were four RMPs swimming in the harbour with their red caps bobbing beside them in the water. The Provost-Marshall appeared from nowhere and told me that it was my job to stop this. I called to McNab and he came at once. “You are going to put him under arrest, aren’t you? said the Provost-Marshall. “Of course” says I, beckoning to McNab to follow me. And so we went down for a drink in my cabin. All wrong of course, but that sort of authority equated in our minds with the enemy. I must also point out that the Queen never had a more loyal subject than McNab. When in prison camp, a Chinese interpreter made the mistake of informing him “I have good news for you – your King is dead”. “And” replied McNab “I’ve got good news for you” and with one punch knocked him out cold. Apparently it took many Chinese guards to put McNab into the hole in the ground where he remained for a considerable length of time. After Singapore I don’t recall any incident of note other than a gorgeous swim at the Blue Mohur in Aden. This took place during a four hour stop-over for ship refuelling and shore leave. The sea was blue and crystal clear, just wonderful. Finally came the day when HMT Empire Orwell came alongside in Southampton docks. There was hooting from the ship, music from the band and cheering from ship to shore. I could see my parents down below. I stepped off the gangway and set foot on England again after three years away Like many others I was always a little hazy as to what we had been fighting for. It was not until I crossed over the line at Panmunjon and that evening watched the film of the Coronation of the Queen, under the stars at Britannia Camp, that I fully realised the reason. I was sitting between Lt Bruce Thompson of the Royal Australian Air Force and Sgt. Vance Drummond of the Royal New Zealand Air Force. There were tears of joy and emotion pouring down our faces. “So,as a person, how did your experiences leave you?” is a question I have often been asked. Well, at first I found it very difficult to converse with people. They were just not on the same frequency, and to my mind asked such idiotic questions. I used to get particularly riled by those who assumed that we received a constant supply of Red Cross parcels. I think I was left with an ability to size up people fairly rapidly. By this I mean how they would react to danger, fatigue, hunger, disease, deprivation or ill treatment. I learned that I could get this wrong, when, in the first December after release, I spent much of Christmas Day and Boxing Day in the company of George Blake, the now well known traitor. This happened because his mother, who was Dutch, was a friend of my mother. Naturally he and I discussed our captivity in Korea. We had been in totally different locations and circumstances and had much to compare. The fact remains, however, that throughout our conversations I never had the slightest idea that he had been ‘turned’. It could be that my perceptive powers had dwindled due to Christmas spirit, his very attractive sister or the meet of some hunt in Kent which we attended. Now, I am well aware that it was good for me to experience suffering at first hand, and often think how a number of people would be the better for it, if, of course, they survived. I am still impatient with those who complain when they are uncomfortable or the food is not to their liking. I can honestly say that this I never do. To this extent, the events of fifty or more years ago are still with me. ENDS