Pre-Course Packet
American Mountain Guide Association
Climbing Wall Instructor Course
LOGISTIC INFORMATION
Goals
The goal of the Climbing Wall Instructor (CWI) program is to train and assess candidates
in the instruction and coaching of technical skills, movement and training on artificial
structures. The CWI course focuses on top rope climbing and bouldering with an optional lead climbing
endorsement.
Course hours
Friday 5:00-9:00pm
Saturday 8:30-5:30pm
Sunday 8:30-3:30pm
Location
Adam State College
Instructors: Course Director: Lance Hadfield
Food and accommodations
Participants are responsible for their own food and accommodation.
Preparation
• Read the Canadian Climbing Gym Instructor manual. The AMGA is working on a manual for
the CWI course that is based on the attached document. Course attendees will receive an updated
AMGA manual once it becomes available.
• Complete the pre-test and turn it in at the first meeting.
• Observe a climbing gym instructor teaching a top rope climbing course if you do not have prior
experience.
• Practice teaching topics to friends or other candidates.
• Practice belaying with both an auto-blocking device (Grigri) and belay tube.
• Arrive with professional quality equipment according to the equipment list.
Equipment
 Candidates should arrive with professional quality equipment in good repair.
 Rock shoes
 Belay/rappel device (belay tube or plate) with 3 locking carabiners

Gri-Gri (optional…may be borrowed.)
 Harness

Chalk bag
 1 24” and 1 48” sling and 1 prussic loop or cordelette

Notebook and pencil/pen
Pre-Course Packet
American Mountain Guide Association
Climbing Wall Instructor Course Pre-Course Information, cont
ASSESSMENT AREAS - Climbing Wall Instructor
Movement and technical skills
Personal standard – Applicants must be able to demonstrate the following skills
 Top rope a 5.8 or harder climb.
(NOTE: if seeking TR only endorsement, climb may be 5.7 or harder.)
 Belay a TR climb with a belay tube demonstrating/describing two acceptable
techniques.
 Belay with a Grigri..
 Lead a 5.7 or harder climb cleanly.
 Lead a 5.7 or harder climb and take a fall at a pre-determined location.
 Clip quickdraws quickly and correctly with both hands.
 Belay a leader with a belay tube and catch a fall safely.
 Belay a leader with a auto-blocking device and catch a fall safely.
INSTRUCTIONAL AND TEACHING SESSIONS
Overview
You will present three (3) teaching topics, each presentation between eight and twelve
minutes and complete with Introduction, Demonstration, Practice Session and
Conclusion.
Assessment Criteria: The presentation will be assessed in these areas:
 Presentation Structure. Does it have all four elements (intro, etc) in proper
balance? Are topic and key points clear. Is the time estimation accurate?
 Presentation Quality—work with multiple learning styles? Style?
 Practice Session Coaching. The quality of feedback and coaching.
 Subject/Topic Mastery- is the information presented safe? Accurate?
Preparation
There is minimal on course preparation time due to the compressed nature of the course.
Please research and prepare to present the following topics during your course that are
part of introductory top roping, climbing movement, and indoor lead climbing classes.
Pre-Course Packet
American Mountain Guide Association
Climbing Wall Instructor Course Pre-Course Information, cont
ASSESSMENT AREAS - CWI, cont.
Top Rope Topic
As a team of four or five, deliver a top rope course to a large group of students. Each
instructor should choose a topic from the following list. An introduction, global
demonstration, and conclusion should be included but will not be assessed.
 Four ten minute presentations from the following list:
 Harnesses.
 Figure eight follow through.
 Belaying ground school (tube style device).
 Belaying ground school ( auto-blocking device).
 Checks, communication, lowering and the first time climbing team.
Movement Skills Topic
As a group of four or five deliver a basic movement instruction (bouldering) session that
includes an introduction (including global demo and safety talk) and the following topics:
 Four ten minute presentations from the following list:
 Weight shift and balance
 Edging and smearing/pushing with feet
 Backstepping and turning
 Foot switches
 Resting and conserving energy while climbing
Lead Climbing Topic
As a group of four or five prepare a basic lead climbing session that includes an
introduction (including global demonstration and safety talk) and the following topics:
 Four ten minute presentations from the following list:
 Lead belaying with plate
 Lead belaying with Auto-blocking device
 Incorporating belayer movement into the belay
 Clipping quickdraws
 Falling and catching falls
 Demonstration/Supervising the first time leading team.
Other Potential Advanced Topics (Those pursuing TR only endorsement may be asked
to present another advanced topic in stead of a lead climbing topic.) Ten minute
presentations from the following list:
 Alternate methods for the Figure eight starter knot
 Working with youth, putting harnesses on small children
 Conducting a belay test or lead test for members
 A physical training topic—stretching for climbing; anaerobic training, etc
 Other topics are acceptable—check with Course instructor.
Pre-Course Packet
American Mountain Guide Association
Climbing Wall Instructor Course Pre-Course Information, cont
Pre test



Read the Climbing Gym Instructor Technical Manual.
Complete the pre-test.
Submit your pre test night one.
Part 1. Lesson planning.
Prepare the following three topic plans. Each topic plan should outline a 8-15 minute
presentation with enough detail to show that you are prepared and know the content
appropriate for your audience.
1. One of the Top Rope topics as described in the assessment “Top rope” on the previous page.
2. One basic movement skill appropriate to a bouldering class.
3. Your advanced skill that you will present to the other candidates.
Part 2 Educational theory
Answer the following questions. One half page for each question.
4. Compare and contrast Skills based courses and Experience based courses.
5. Give an example of teaching a skill and incorporating audio, visual, and kinesthetic inputs.
Part 3 Risk management
Answer the following questions. One half page for each question.
6. Prepare a safety talk for novices outlining five hazards in indoor climbing.
7. For one of the hazards above, list three risk management methods.