Tomaree Mature Age Computer Club Newsletter Club Meets 2nd & 4th Wednesday at Tomaree Neighbourhood Centre, Salamander 10:00 AM & 4:00 PM http://tmacc.users.nelsonbay.com/ club wiki at : http://tmacc.pbwiki.com/ Steering Committee Bob Truscott 49821264 Noel Finch 49822797 Brom Crass 49871715 Next Meeting : 13 January 2010 & 20 January 2010 XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX Basic Bits December 2009 XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX If you attempt to fix something that isn't broken, it soon will be This section is a regular feature of our newsletters – in it, we hope to present (in words and pictures) some aspect of computing and try to make it easy to understand and easy to apply. The content will be largely governed by your requests, so if there is some task that you can’t quite get the hang of , or something that appears puzzling , you can bet that others have also encountered the same and wondered, so please email me at brom@kooee.com.au or chat to any one of the steering committee. ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………… S Se en nd diin ng ga aP Ph ho otto o iin na an nE Em ma aiill Sending a single photo in an email is prettty straight forward: 1. Find the image on your computer. 2. Right click the image. A menu appears. 3. Put your mouse over the Send To option. Another menu pops out. 4. Select Mail Recipient from the list that is exposed in the second menu. If your photo has a really large file size or large dimensions (e.g. you downloaded it from your camera and want to send without editing it) Windows may ask you if you would like the photo resized. This is fine for sending to your family and friends but if you are sending this to your web designer or graphics person, tell Windows to leave the photo as it is. It is much better to send photos to your web designer/graphics person in the original state so they can edit the photo with the proper photo editing tools. The menu closes and your email program starts up. 5. A new email message is created complete with your image attached. 1 If you look at the top of the message there will be an item added to the usual items called Attach. 6. Windows automatically adds the Subject line for you when emailing photos. The Subject line of your new email will have the subject line filled in with Emailing: name of photo.jpg 7. The Body of your email will also be filled in. “The message is ready to be sent with the following file or link attachments: name of image.jpg Note: To protect against computer viruses, e-mail programs may prevent sending or receiving certain types of file attachments. Check your e-mail security settings to determine how attachments are handled. You can select this text, delete it, and fill in your own message. 8. Fill in the To box. Left click the To at the top of your email and your Address book will open. Select the person(s) you wish to email the photos to. 9. Once you have the To filled in all that’s left is to left click the Send button at the top and your photos are emailed out. But what if you have a bunch of photos to email? Email Multiple Photos in Windows Emailing multiple photos in Windows goes pretty well the same way as emailing a single photo with one change at the beginning, when selecting the photos to send. 1. Find the images on your computer. 2. Left click the first image in the group of images you wish to email. 3. With the Shift key down, select the last image in the group of images to be emailed. They will appear to have a blue highlight around them. 4. With your mouse over one of the selected images, right click. A menu appears. 5. The rest of the procedure is the same as for emailing a single image explained above. Some Notes About Emailing Photos Photos tend to be large files, especially when they come straight out of the camera. Your ISP (Internet Service Provider) may have a limit on how big of an email you are allowed to send therefore, if you are sending multiple photos break them into batches. There is also the problem of the receiver’s (person you are emailing the photos to) mailbox limit. 2 Their mailbox is only a certain size and your email is too big. They haven’t cleaned out their email mailbox on the mail server for a while and it’s full. If this happens, you will get a notice from the mail server where their email mailbox is located saying the message was undeliverable. Reduce the size of your email and send again. Send them an email telling them you tried to send some pictures and please clean out their mailbox. If you can’t send them an email at all because their mailbox is full, you are going to have to phone them and let them know. So, as you can see, emailing photos in Windows is not that hard. Just be careful your email isn’t too big and everything will work fine. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX R Re ecco ovve erryy o off d de elle ette ed de em ma aiillss Is there a way to get an e-mail back that was deleted by mistake but is still in my deleted folder on my e-mail page ? My e-mail client is outlook express. If your email is still in the "Deleted Items" folder, then you are in luck. It is actually very easy to put it back into your inbox. 1. Open Outlook Express, and go to your "Deleted Items" folder. 2. Right click on the message that you want back in your inbox. 3. In the context menu that appears, click on, "Move To". 4. In the dialog box that appears, navigate to the "Inbox" folder, click on it, then click the "OK" button. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX U Ussiin ng ga a LLa ap ptto op pw wiitth h/ /w wiitth ho ou utt B Ba atttte erryy I have a Toshiba laptop which I use as a desktop, so it is plugged in all of the time. I've read where you should remove your battery if you leave the laptop plugged in, however, when I remove the battery, the computer does not work. For the past few months, the only way I can get the laptop to reboot is to unplug everything, take out the battery, put the battery back in, turn on the power, and THEN plug the power cord back in. If I plug the power cord in before I turn the computer back on, it will not come on and I have to remove the battery and put it back in again. The battery always seems warm to hot. I'm at a loss at what to do about this. You seem to be having a problem that I have seen several times already, and there are a couple of parts to your questions that I want to address. 3 First, you mentioned running the laptop without the battery. You stated that your laptop will not run without the battery in place. This is true of some laptops, while many others will run just fine without the battery as long as the power adapter is plugged in. I have a laptop that will not turn on if you leave the battery in place, but since it will run without the battery, our solution has been to just leave the battery out and use the laptop without it. Your specific symptoms, including the heat of the battery makes me think that you might just need to replace the battery. You should be able to order a replacement from Toshiba, or maybe even get one from the place you purchased the laptop. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX W Wh ha att''ss ""M Ma asstte err"" a an nd d ""S Slla avve e"" sse ettttiin ng gss Can you help explain to me how to tell on a CD-ROM drive where to locate the switch to switch between slave and master ? Also what is the difference in Slave and Master. Just explain to me the best you can. I've looked on the CD-ROM drive that I have and can't see a thing saving slave or master. I have 2 drives and have just put a different CD-ROM in, but now neither will work... , so I feel like it has something to do with the slave and master deal. This question is a little more technical than I usually put in the newsletter, but it is a good question that I think I can give you a good explanation for. First, you are installing a new CD-ROM drive, that is great! It is something that is fairly easy to do, but many people don't dare to try on their own. When you put in that CD-ROM drive, it needs several connections set up inside the computer. The simplest connection is the power. It comes out of the power supply near the back of the tower, and plugs into the back of the CD-ROM drive. There are no settings needed for the power. The second connection is a sound cable that goes from the back of the CD-ROM drive to either your sound card, or a socket on the motherboard if the sound is built in. Again, that connection is quite simple. Finally, you need to plug in the IDE or data cable. This is keyed so that it only goes in one way (usually the red stripe on the cable will be on the same side as the power connector) and the other end of the data cable plugs into a socket on the motherboard. If there is only one drive connected to that cable, you are done setting it up. If, however, you are connecting two drives to the same IDE cable, you will need to set them up so that they can both communicate on that cable without interfering with each other. This is where the Master and Slave settings come in. One drive needs to be set as the master drive, and the other needs to be set as the slave drive. These settings are made using pins and a jumper on the back of the drive. You will see 6 to 8 extra pins on the back end of the drive that are not part of the data cable connection. These pins usually have a little black cap that goes over two pins. This cap is called a jumper, and you can move it from one set of pins to another to change the settings of the drive to "Master", "Slave" or another setting called "Cable Select". The hardest part for you is to examine the outside of the drive and find the markings that tell you how to set the pins. Most of the drives that I have worked with, have some letters on the top, just above the pins. They have a pair of letters over each set of pins. 4 MA for the master, SL for slave and CS for cable select. What you need to do is set one of your CD drives to Master, and the other to slave. Then both the drives will work together on the same IDE cable. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX P Prro og grra am mA Asssso occiia attiio on nss I clicked some things trying to get my computer to run faster. I have accomplished that, but now anytime I try and open a picture of any format, I get a message that says "there isn't a program associated with this" and won't open the picture attachment. I don't know what I clicked, but is there any way you can help me uncheck it to alleviate the problem and see the attachments again ? My guess is that you somehow un-installed the program that was associated with your picture files and this is causing your problem. Since you mentioned that your goal is to speed up your computer, I am going to suggest that you install a small, fast graphics viewing program that is also free, named IrfanView. I have been using it for years. To get this program, head on over to the website, www.irfanview.com On the IrfanView page, click on the download link, and follow the prompts to download and install the program. When you are installing IrfanView, be sure to click on the button that says: Images only. This will associate all your pictures with IrfanView. Once you have finished the installation, your pictures will open quickly in IrfanView. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX W Wh ha att iiss tth he eM Ma alliicciio ou uss S So offttw wa arre eR Re em mo ovva all T To oo oll ?? The Windows Malicious Software Removal Tool (MSRT) is a component of Microsoft Windows XP, Vista, and Windows 7. It does not run on older systems, such as Windows 98, Windows Millennium Edition, or Microsoft Windows NT 4.0. It's installed automatically with the rest of the operating system and updated regularly via Windows Update . It does just what its name says, and that's all it does. Then it deletes itself until the next time you update Windows. The Malicious Software Removal Tool does not ward off infections by malware (malicious software) as programs such as Norton Internet Security and Avast! Antivirus do. It only detects infections that already exist on your system and removes them. Malware (viruses, spyware and other nasties) may have already done damage by the time MSRT snuffs it, so you should have preventive anti-malware programs installed as well. Furthermore, MSRT detects only some of the many malware specimens that exist in the wild. It relies upon a database of known malware programs and their digital "signatures," patterns of bits and bytes that 5 comprise a program. This database is updated often, but there will always be a large body of new malware being written that MSRT does not recognize yet. That's another reason not to rely upon MSRT exclusively for protection. Another limitation of MSRT is that it only detects malware that is actively running in RAM on your computer. If a malware program is lying dormant on your hard drive it will escape MSRT's notice. Do You Really Need the Malicious Software Removal Tool? If this sounds pretty lame to you, you're in good company. There are lots of free antivirus programs available that do a much better, more proactive job. So why does MSRT exist, and why does Microsoft push it onto every Windows user via default installation and Automatic Update? Basically, MSRT is a just a perfunctory patch for Windows' wretched reputation as a security sieve. Microsoft was taking a lot of heat from the entire computing industry in the mid-2000s. Its software was notoriously vulnerable to malware through many programming loopholes. The company vowed to improve the security of Windows, Internet Explorer, the Internet Information Server (Microsoft's basic Web server software), and its other products. MSRT is one of the bones that Microsoft threw to users complaining about lack of security. But Microsoft did not want to offend its partners in the security business, such as Norton. So it did not make MSRT a serious competitor for commercial antivirus programs. It's a fig leaf, despite the company's claims that MSRT has eradicated tens of millions of malware copies from users' computers. As of May, 2009, Microsoft claims that MSRT has removed password-stealing malware from 859,542 Windows-using computers. That's nice, but just a drop in the bucket, really. You needn't be concerned about MSRT wasting computer resources or disk space. The program takes up only 10 MB on a hard drive and that only temporarily. When you update Windows, MSRT is downloaded to a temporary directory. You are asked to accept its licensing agreement. Then MSRT runs a scan of your system for malware and removes what it can. Finally, it deletes itself. It doesn't run again until the next Windows update. Bottom line, MSRT is better than nothing for those who have nothing. But it won't add much additional protection to systems that already have anti-virus and anti-spyware software in place. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX S Siim mp plliiccIIT Tyy P PC Css B Bu uiilltt S Sp pe ecciiffiicca allllyy ffo orr S Se en niio orrss,, N Ne ew wU Usse errss by Bill Lindner on 20091117 @ 05:20AM EST A new, simplified desktop computer aimed at older people unfamiliar with PCs and the Internet has been unveiled. SimplicITy only has 6 buttons that direct users to basic tasks like email and chat. It comes preloaded with 17 video tutorials from Valerie Singleton, a television presenter. According to government figures, there are more than 6 million people over the age of 65 who have never used the Internet. 6 SimplicITy produces the specialty PCs in partnership with Wessex Computers and discount-age. It takes users two weeks to receive their made-to-order computers. SimplicITy: No Log-in Screen Singleton was shocked by the number of older users that do not have computers. A survey conducted by the Office for National Statistics in August 2009 revealed that 6.4 million people aged 65 and older have never used the Internet. The SimplicITy computer does not have a log-in screen when it's booted up and contains no drop-down menus. It boots directly to a front page called "square one" that contains separate clickable buttons for email, browsing the Internet, files for storing Word documents and photos, online chat and a user profile. (Source: bbc.co.uk) Eldy.org Users Capable of Chatting with Each Other The email system used by SimplicITy is a modified version of an Italian design called Eldy. Every SimpliciTY user with an eldy.org address will be capable of chatting with each other by using the "chat" button. SimplicITy uses Linux, a free operating system that can be customized by users. Pricing for the SimplicITy desktop is not yet known. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX FFu ullllyy iin nsstta allll W Wiin nd do ow wss 7 7 ffrro om m tth he eu up pg grra ad de ed diisscc By Woody Leonhard Topping the long list of readers' Windows 7 questions is whether you can use the upgrade disc to perform a full install of the new OS. You may be surprised to discover that in Windows 7 there's no difference between the "upgrade" and "full" DVDs and — just as with Vista — the cheaper upgrade version can indeed be used to perform a full install. But that's just one of your many Windows 7 questions. From what's possible, to what's legal, to what-onearth-were-they-thinking, here's the skinny on the ins and outs of Microsoft's best OS yet. There's no way to fit all your Win7 queries into a single column, so you can be sure I'll have many more Win7 FAQs in the weeks to come. Will a Win7 upgrade disc install the full OS? "It looks like you can use the upgrade version of Windows 7 to install a 'genuine' copy of Windows 7 on any PC, whether it already has Windows on it or not. Why would anybody pay way more money and buy a full-install version of Windows 7 instead of an upgrade version?" Good question. So far, the only people I know who've paid for the full version of Windows 7 thought they had to buy it because they were running Windows XP. When they read that they couldn't do an in-place upgrade from XP to Win7, they mistakenly thought they had to buy the full release. They got ripped off. The terminology stinks, but as you will see below in my discussion of upgrade pricing, almost everybody qualifies for an upgrade version of Windows 7. In my experience, most people using the upgrade package find that their new Win7 key validates immediately after the PC connects to the Internet. You can maximize your chances of getting instant gratification (validation), however. 7 If you have a version of Windows running on your PC, start Windows, insert the Windows 7 upgrade DVD, and follow the on-screen instructions. (All of the usual caveats about first backing up your data apply, of course.) If you wish, you can reformat your hard drive at the beginning of the installation process. This wipes out all the old data stored on the drive. In my testing, as long as I started the Win7 installation from within Windows, the upgrade key passed validation. It didn't matter, in my test runs, whether the PC's previous version of Windows had ever been validated as "genuine" or not. If you don't have Windows running — for example, if you're installing the OS on a new hard drive — boot from the Win7 upgrade DVD and follow the on-screen instructions. Chances are good that Windows 7 will validate immediately, even if there was no copy of Windows on the drive beforehand. I have a theory about how and why this straightforward validation just works, but Microsoft hasn't yet divulged details. I'll revisit the whys and wherefores in a future column. If you type in the validation key and see a message stating, "The product key is not valid," don't fret. Go ahead and install Win7 without the key and plan on activating the OS later. Remember that you can run Win7 up to 120 days without activating it, as I explained in my Aug. 20 Top Story. How do I get the upgrade key to activate? "I installed the Windows 7 upgrade and the key doesn't work. What should I do next?" In such situations, Microsoft recommends that you call the company to validate your copy of Win7 over the phone. In my experience, phone validation works quickly and easily. The people answering the phone bend over backwards to get Win7 validated. If you want to try this official, phone-it-in approach, review the question in the next section and make sure your PC qualifies for upgrade pricing. If it does, but you can't get the key to work, gather whatever information you need to verify you qualify and then call Microsoft. The easy way to get Microsoft's Win7 activation phone number is to click Start, type slui 4, and press Enter. That said, you can activate with an upgrade key without calling Microsoft at all. There are several ways to do so. For example, writer Paul Thurrott documents in a blog post how you can upgrade in this situation by changing a byte in the Registry and running a single command line. Failing that, another fairly simple (if more time-consuming) activation method to install from the Win7 upgrade disc and then upgrade Win7 on top of itself. This technique works in Win7 in a nearly identical way to the trick WS editorial director Brian Livingston described for Vista in a Feb. 1, 2007 Top Story. The short version of that trick is this: Once you've installed Win7 from the upgrade DVD, start Win7, and then stick the upgrade disc in the drive again. Follow the instructions to upgrade, but don't choose Custom — you're upgrading to Windows 7 from Windows 7. Enter the key when requested, and it'll validate the next time you're online. Does my PC qualify for upgrade pricing? "I understand that there are many different ways to upgrade a PC to Windows 7. The $64 question (give or take a few bucks) is whether my PC qualifies for the Upgrade Option for Windows 7 rather than my having to buy the full version. How can I tell?" Microsoft made it easy in Windows 7 to perform a full install of Windows 7 using only the less-expensive Upgrade Option for Windows 7. In fact, MS made the trick even easier in Windows 7 than it was in Vista, by adding to Win7 the Registry byte change that I mentioned above. The technique in Vista usually required a second install to work. Win7, thanks to changes deliberately added by Microsoft, usually 8 doesn't require that the setup routine be started twice. Microsoft's Windows 7 End-User License Agreement (EULA), however, says you can install an upgrade edition of Win7 only if you had a license for an earlier version of Windows that you're eradicating. It's curious why Microsoft makes it so easy for customers to install an "upgrade" copy of Windows 7 on a PC that supposedly doesn't qualify. Indeed, why has Microsoft built hooks into the Windows installer to specifically bypass the qualification test — hooks that have been left in place for years? In any event, the relevant clause in the Win7 EULA says: "To use upgrade software, you must first be licensed for the software that is eligible for the upgrade. Upon upgrade, this agreement takes the place of the agreement for the software you upgraded from. After you upgrade, you may no longer use the software you upgraded from." By that standard, the number of machines that don't qualify for upgrade pricing is mighty tiny. (It also raises disturbing questions about multiboot systems, but I'll discuss multibooting in a future column.) For example, if you own a computer with a Windows Certificate of Authenticity sticker on the case as proof of ownership — and the certificate is for Vista or XP — there's no question whatsoever that the PC qualifies for upgrade pricing. If you've ever paid for a full copy of Windows — one you purchased "off the shelf," not a copy that was preinstalled on a PC — you own the right to use that copy of Windows on any PC you like, as long as you use it on only one machine at a time. There's no requirement that you activate it in order for a Win7 upgrade to work on it. How can that not be a legitimate candidate for a Windows 7 upgrade? The universe of PCs that don't qualify for upgrade pricing would seem to be limited to those that (1) have been built from scratch or (2) bear counterfeit builds Windows that unsuspecting customers bought from unscrupulous box shops. New virtual machines also require the full version, but that's about it — this represents a very tiny slice of the consumer-PC pie. How do I know my Win7 installation is legit? "If I can get an upgrade version of Windows 7 to install on my PC and it validates as 'genuine,' I'm running everything legally and don't need to worry about it, right?" As far as I can tell, if you pass the validation hurdle once with an upgrade version of Windows 7, your computer won't have to do anything in the future to prove whether you were or were not entitled to an upgrade. You'll definitely be running a copy of Win7 that's validated as genuine. Whether that also means your new copy meets the written definition in Microsoft's EULA depends on whether you ever owned a legal copy of Windows for that PC. That can sometimes be hard to verify. Can I upgrade in place from XP to Vista to Win7? "I'm running Windows XP. I know I can't do an in-place upgrade from XP to Windows 7, but can I do an in-place upgrade from XP to Vista, and then another from Vista to Windows 7?" You can, but that gives Windows two opportunities to shoot you in the foot. Many of my friends tell me I'm superstitious, but I strongly recommend that people perform a custom (clean) install. Yes, that entails reinstalling programs and re-entering your custom system settings, but it's still my advice — even if you have a PC that can accommodate an in-place upgrade. Sticking Win7 on top of an old copy of Windows is like building a new house on old landfill. You never 9 know what's going to come to the surface, or where, or when. A very large percentage of the problems people are having with Windows 7 installations occur with in-place upgrades. Which Win7 is right for me: 32-bit or 64-bit? "Should I install the 32-bit or 64-bit version of Windows 7? How do I get the right one?" Every Windows 7 box that you buy on store shelves — whether an upgrade or full version of Home Premium, Professional, or Ultimate — contains two DVDs. One has the 32-bit version and the other has the 64-bit version. If you ignore the recommendation I made in the above item and insist on performing an in-place upgrade, you can do so only from 32-bit to 32-bit or 64-bit to 64-bit. However, if you do a custom (clean) install on a machine that formerly ran a 32-bit version of XP or Vista, you should seriously consider moving to 64-bit computing. See my July 16 Top Story for information that will help you determine whether 64-bit is right for you. If you decide that it is, follow the instructions in the article to run the Windows 7 Upgrade Advisor. If the Upgrade Advisor indicates your PC can support a 64-bit version of Windows — and it doesn't warn you that your specific hardware doesn't have drivers — give 64-bit a try. Although there are some devices from major manufacturers that don't have 64-bit drivers, several of these vendors have been embarrassed into writing new ones. Can I upgrade Vista Ultimate to any Win7 flavor? "I got suckered into paying for Windows Vista Ultimate. What a waste! Adding insult to pecuniary injury, if I want to upgrade, I have to pay for Windows 7 Ultimate, right?" Nope. If you want to perform an in-place upgrade from 32-bit Vista Ultimate, you have to pay for the Windows 7 Ultimate upgrade and must install the 32-bit version. However, if you perform a custom (clean) install, you can upgrade that Vista Ultimate PC to whichever version of Windows 7 you prefer. It gets confusing because the term "upgrade" has two completely different meanings. If you want to do an in-place upgrade and avoid reinstalling your programs and updating your settings, you have very limited choices about which versions of Windows you can start with and what you can upgrade to. (See Microsoft's somewhat-muddled explanation of the Win7 Upgrade Option Program on the official Windows 7 site.) If you're willing to perform a clean install, you can upgrade any version of XP or Vista to any version of Windows 7, and you need pay for only the Upgrade Option for Windows 7 — no need to buy the full-install package. I just saved you about a hundred bucks, yes? XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX W Wh hyy iiss O Ou uttllo oo ok kE Ex xp prre essss sse en nd diin ng gm mu ullttiip plle e cco op piie ess o off m myy e em ma aiill ?? There is something strange going on with my Outlook Express version 6. When I send an Email with an attachment it's sent something like 40 times ! Of course, while sending that mail I notice on my screen nothing at all about this curious fact. It seems to me - but I certainly do not know why or how - that probably my Outlook Express duplicates that mail and delivers it 40 times ! I checked my configuration but I see nothing strange with that. Can you tell me what is the problem and how to solve this ? 10 Summary: Occasionally Outlook Express may try to send a message repeatedly. We'll look into a couple of causes, and solutions, to sending multiple copies. I did a little research, and I'm finding a couple of common causes. The good news here is that either should be easy to fix. The situation here is that your email program, Outlook Express in this case, is repeatedly sending a message over and over. There are two common causes. Anti-malware Tools The most common cause of repeated sends that can be traced back to your actual mail program is probably anti-malware tools that are trying to scan outgoing email, or otherwise interfere with the proper operation of the mail program. It's a common cause of repeated (or failed) downloads of email, and when the feature is enabled to scan sent mail, it can interfere there as well. Depending on the type of interference, the email program responds by saying "well, that didn't work, I'll try to send it again" - and again, and again. The solution here is pretty simple: locate that feature in your anti-malware or security suite, and turn it off. You may need to close and restart your email program, or even reboot your machine for the change to take effect. Outlook Express Mailbox Limits Outlook Express apparently has a 2 gigabyte file size limit for its mailboxes. Normally, that doesn't affect most people, but I've definitely seen reports of it doing exactly what you've described when the Sent Items folder approaches 2 gigabytes. Smaller emails might make it out for a while, but a larger attachment might be enough to exceed that size limit, and thus cause the problem. My recommendation is to create a new folder - call it what you will; perhaps something like "SentArchive", and move all the messages in your Sent Items folder to the Sent Archive folder. That should a) retain all your sent messages should you need to refer to them, and b) empty the Sent Items folder so that this problem doesn't happen again. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX 11 T TM MA AC CC CN Ne ew wsslle etttte err LLiissttiin ng g ffo orr 2 20 00 08 8 --9 9 Jan-08 1 Bookmarking a Site 2 Flatbed Scanners Feb-08 1 ADSL2 & ADSL2+ 2 Glossary of Software Types Mar-08 1 What is a cookie 2 Defragmenting my USB flash drive 3 Understanding Codecs Apr-08 1 BIOS Beep Codes 2 Sandboxie May-08 1 Basic computer speak 2 Setting up a printer in Windows XP 3 COFEE ?!? Jun-08 1 Computer on all the time 2 Wiping a Hard drive 3 Creating a Zipped folder in XP Jul-08 1 What is Bandwith 2 Trouble shooting / repairing guide for computers Aug-08 1 Turning ON/OFF computer 2 More than one Firewall ??? 3 How graphic cards work Sep-08 1 What makes computers work 2 What's an Incremental backup Oct-08 1 Function Keys 2 System idle process…CPU Nov-08 1 Backing up my computer 2 Broadband speed test Dec-08 1 Safely ejecting USB Devices 2 What does "Pri Master HDD Error mean on boot ?? Jan-09 1 What's 404 Not found Error 2 What's a Volume Name ? 3 Win XP Re-activation ??? Feb-09 1 What are Browser cookies ? 2 Renewing License Mar-09 1 What is Java ? 2 Upgrading to Windows 7: 3 Scrollbar width Apr-09 1 Windows Icons & Task bar 2 Twitteron Trial 3 Internal Or External H/ Drive May-09 1 What is a Batch file ? 2 Service life of a Thumb drive 3 About LCD Monitors Jun-09 1 What are cabinet files 2 Can a USB thumbdrive wear out ? 3 Scandisk in XP !! Jul-09 1 What is Safe Mode ? 2 "Cannot find server" Error when browsing the Web 12