Sake is the national drink of Japan. Since rice is important to
Japan, the making of sake by rice has become very precious. In
the history of Japan, not only have people drunk sake but it is
also used for spiritual
ceremony for thousands of
years. The traditional
sake brewing method has
been established through
the history and today
brewers are still using
many methods that have been used for centuries with help of the god of sake that
is also living in us.
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There are about 1300 sake breweries in Japan. Since 1881, about 130 years ago, when 26,826
breweries exist, the number is getting smaller and smaller every year while big companies
are dominating the sake making now. Differently from those huge companies, small sake
brewers which are called “Jizake” brewers (also called micro or boutique brewers); exist
only to make passionate sake.
Kozaemon is just a small sake brewery in mountainous area of the Gifu prefecture, the
middle of Japan. Mizunami, our town and at one time was at the bottom of the sea in the
ancient period. The water through the soil is soft and affluent. Mizunami means rice ear’s
wave. It is called as if the rice ears were
waving by winds. It is very hot in the
summer, and very cold in winter with a few snowfalls.
The brewing history of Kozaemon is over 300 years, originated in 1702.
With the help of high quality rice and water, and brewer’s passion for
a challenge to make sake special, kozaemon has survived.
The rich sophisticated taste is totally incomparable.
Not only domestically but internationally Kozaemon is highly regarded.
From 2007, we are exporting to over 8 countries. Now, you can drink
it in UK、France, Germany, Sweden, China, Hong Kong, USA, and Australia,
in 2009.
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Rice used for Sake is different from the ordinary rice that we eat.
Rice for Sake is much bigger and has white core in the middle and not very tasty to eat.
Many crossbreeding of rice types over the last century has been made sake even more diverse & unique.
Needless to say, rice is of the upmost important to Sake brewing. Furthermore, to find
particular rice suits for our water and style is critical. So, we directly make contract with
each rice farmer all over Japan in order to make “face to face” relationships.
Types of rice we use are as follows:
Yamadanishiki, Aiyama, Yumenishiki (Hyogo Pref.), Omachi Bizen and Akaiwa (Okayama Pref.),
Hattan 35 (Hiroshima Pref.),
Gohyakumangoku (Toyama Pref.), Miyamanishiki (Nagano Pref.), Mizunaminishiki (Gifu Pref.
using Yamadanishiki), Mizunamimai(Gifu).
At the time of founding, all rice was made in our town, Mizunami. So, we are trying to make
Mizunami rice once again by ourselves. Actually, Mizunamimai is partly made on site by our brewers. Also, we are
trying to make organic rice sake. Already, Miyamanishiki in Nagano Pref. has been made by organic method. It will
be the new direction of Kozaemon.
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On the Outside of Sake rice, there are proteins and fats that need to be removed.
The rice is milled in order to remove the unwanted outer layers where protein and fat are contained.
By milling, the core center of Sake rice, called “Shinpaku”, remains.
The degree of milling ratio depends on what taste you want for the sake. Low milling ratio rice creates richer taste
with full of sweet, sour, hot, bitter, and astringent. It deeply reflects the taste of rice. On the other hand, high
milling ratio rice creates more slender flavor and fragrance. Originality of yeast appeals more beside the rice itself.
The milling rate (polishing ratio) indicates several types of sake such as Daiginjo-shu, and Ginjo-shu.
In the case of Kozaemon, the definition of sake based on milling rates is as follows;
Type of sake based on rice milling rate
normal definition
Kozaemon
Daiginjo
at least 50%
35%-40%
(at least 50% of rice is polished away)
Ginjo
at least 60%
(at least 40% of rice is polished away)
Junmai
no alcohol is added
50%
Unpolished rice
35-90%
50% polished
at least 70%
Honjozo
(at least 30% of rice is polished away),
and distilled alcohol is added
70%
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Brewing Process
Unpolished
Rice
Koji
(Mold)
Polished
Rice
Steamed
Rice
Moto or
Shubo
(Yeast
Starter)
Washing, Soaking
Rice milling
& Steaming
Fermentation
Fermentation
Sake
Moromi
(Mash)
Pressing
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After milling, rice is washed and soaked. The purpose of washing is to remove
rice bran (white powder), and that of soaking is to let the rice absorb the
water.
Washing is called as “second milling”, because
rice is rubbed each other. Appropriate dehydrate
is essential to make qualified steam rice.
In these processes, time keeping is very
important in order to contain the correct amount
of water. So, it is usually stopwatch-measured.
The time depends on the daily temperature, water
temperature, humidity, and milling rate of the
rice. Quality of rice is different every year.
So, time must be considered carefully every year.
Washing and soaking could determine the taste
and character of Sake at the very beginning.
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After soaking, next process is steaming. In a
special big steamer, called Koshiki, rice is
dry-steamed for about 50-90 minutes. The time is
determined by milling rate and absorbability of
rice. The temperature is 101 to 105 degrees.
The steaming way is quite different from the
table rice boiling. The rice must be steamed in
a way that results in a firm outer surface and
soft inner core.

One day of a brewing worker
3:30
4:00
Boiler switch on
Mix the Moromi & Shubo
5:00
6:00
Prepare for analyzing
Breakfast
Pick up the steamed rice
7:00
8:00
9:30
Clean up equipments
Koji Making
Analyze or cleaning
11:00
12:00
13:00
15:00
Rice washing
Lunch
Napping time
Put the rice into steamer
16:00 Mix the Moromi & Shubo
Prepare for the next day
18:00 Check the Koji
19:00 Dinner
21:00 Check the Koji
24:00 Check the Koji

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Koji making is sensitive work. This is the
heart of the entire brewing process.
Rice for Koji is put in the best position of
steamer. Then, Koji mold is sprinkled on the
steamed rice. In order to develop koji, high
temperature and certain humidity is required,
and special care is needed until the koji is
developed. At this point, visible white mold is not most
important. What important the most is enzyme created by
growing mold. Therefore, the
room must be dry so that the
enzyme will develop into the
moist center of rice. The
enzyme will break down the starch of the rice into grape
sugar.
The koji making room called Muro is the hottest place
in a sake brewery. The temperature is about 34 degree
beside the outside is 0 degree or below.
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Koji and steamed rice are mixed in small tank. This mixture is called Shubo (Yeast
starter).
There are two types of Shubo; Sokujo, and Kimoto type. In the case of Sokujo which
is mainly used in recent Japan, Shubo is kept in the tank for 2 weeks. It is the
process by which adding prepared lactic acid and yeast, and the period of
fermentation goes fast. On the other hand, Kimoto type is the traditional way. Compare to Sokujo,
it takes 2 weeks more until the natural lactic acid is created.
In the case of Sokujo, Kohbo (yeast) is added with lactic acid into the Shubo, and then, the Yeast
changes grape sugar into
Add lactic acid and yeast
Sokujo Type
yeast
2weeks
Omit
Fermentation increasing yeast
Start!
Kimoto Type
2 weeks
Start!
Lactic acid fermentation
4weeks
Fermentation increasing yeast
alcohol and carbon dioxide. In Shubo, alcohol
goes up to 11% only.
There are many kinds of Kobo.
Sake associations
prepare variety of Kobo
for brewery. Though,
original kobo which lives
in brewery still exists.
It is called wild Kobo.
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After Shubo is moved into a larger tank, more rice, koji, and water are added. This mixture is called Moromi (mush).
Moromi is again moved to much larger tank with extra rice, koji, and water after several days. Amount of Moromi is
getting larger by this process. This fermentation process, unique to the brewing
of Sake, is known as “multiple parallel fermentation”. The most widely applied
method of adding rice, koji, and water to the moromi is called “Sandan shikomi”.
It means three-stage process. For example, the amount of rice and water of one
particular Kozaemon is listed below.
It creates over 2000 liter of Sake in a tank.
During the fermentation, accurate temperature control is necessary. Only 0.5
degree makes difference. Besides temperature, many other factors are measured
and adjusted couple of hours.
Kozaemon Tokubetsu-Junmai Miyamanishiki
shubo
rice(kg)
1st
2nd
3rd
total
1st day
3rd day
4th day
steamed
50
105
220
510
885
koji
20
40
65
90
215
77
140
350
water(l)
970 1707
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After 24 to 35 days, the moromi has reached 16 to 20% alcohol content. When fragrance,
taste, and everything is right, Toji, the head brewer of a brewery, decides that it
is the time the sake is now pressed. The white lees (Kasu) are pressed away, and clear
jewelry clear Sake runs off. The taste of the first sake is fresh and energetic.
In the case of Kozaemon, “Jikagumi” is unique to our brewery. It is taken from a
reformed pressing machine. By bottling just after press, without air touch, light
sparkling taste of “Jikagumi” is made and kept. It is so special that makes everyone
surprise. Also, traditional “Tobindori”, the way putting Moromi in canvas bags and
dripping out without pressure, is still used. It takes time, but taste is very delicate,
mild, and sophisticated.
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Most of the pressed sake are pasteurized and are kept in tanks for several months to years. The timing of bottling
and shipping is determined by constant tasting of staff members. Until that, sake is kept under certain temperature
depend on each type. Each sake has its own ideal temperature for keeping from -8 to 5 C. Some sake requires room
temperature. For aging, accurate temperature control is important. We believe that storage is important as much as
the sake making itself.
Now, we are making about 15 types of Kozaemon sake, and 3 types of Kozaemon liquor made by fruits. You can get these
not only in Japan, but also in the world. World famous restaurants serve Kozaemon.
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Nakashima
Brewing
Co., Ltd.
It was in the middle of Edo period. In 1702, the founder, the first Kozaemon
Nakashima who was ordered to cultivate the lands along Toki River, started
sake brewing. The purpose was to raise the value of rice grown here. This
sake was enjoyed by local people for a long time.
Thanks to the predecessors, we released new brand called “Kozaemon” in
2001, to present more enjoyable sake to more people.
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We believe that our brewing must be passed on next
century. For that, examination of raw materials is
important. We visit every farm even if it is far away
and keep contacts to every farmer so that we can
deliver their passion. In the near future,
percentage of organic materials will be much bigger.
We believe social contribution considering the
environments is important.
Good water, Good rice, Good people, these words are
written in the left picture. To develop these three
is crucial for sake brewing. Also, we are earnestly
hoping customer’s peace and happiness through our
sake. For that, we are doing our best every day.
Now, we strictly limit the Kozaemon sellers to
either Local Sake specialty shops which can create
human relationships with us, or high class
restaurants and hotels. We promise to deliver
Kozaemon to you and make your life much happier.
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Today, a few huge national brand Sake makers have big share of sake marketing.
For example, the most selling Sake maker has over 300 employees and produces 27,000,000ℓ
per year
Some of local brewers are also getting bigger and produce about 900,000ℓ
On the other hand, number of small brewer is getting smaller and smaller.
They are forced to close down the brewery.
Last year, we produced just 113,400ℓ with only three workers.
Yet, we still believe that being a small local brewer is meaningful.
Small brewer doesn’t have huge equipments, so that manufacture is usually required.
Also, there are lots of microbes which cannot be measured scientifically. These microbes
make sake incomparably unique.
Convinced brewing creates convinced sake. We believe this is our identity.
Kozaemon limits the production amount up to 360,000ℓ, because of our policy to keep good
materials and to maintain the “face to face relationships” with Kozaemon sellers. We sell
Kozaemon to well known counterparts only. We think that quality control and products
instruction are necessary.
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Sake is often served with meals. So, we believe that sake enjoyed with meal is important. We are making various Sake,
such as Daiginjo, Yamahai, Yuzu, and Ume liquor. The way and situation of drinking is determined in each sake.
We are working carefully over and over in order to make special sake which touches people’s heart deeply. Our staffs
are all in 30’s. We have 300 years of history but we still have a big passion and vision for the future. We are willing
to grow, and will grow for sure. We wish you understand our vision and work along with us!
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