Your Guide To
2.5 Miles of
History That
Created America
HOW IT WORKS!
Providence
Welcome to America’s most historic city
A Lively Experiment is how King Charles of England
described the wild ideas taking hold in the wilderness
of New England.
Ideas about freedom of conscience, freedom of
religion, separation of church and state and respect
for minorities.
These profound ideas were given a permanent home
when Roger Williams founded Providence nearly 4
centuries ago.
Providence is still as lively with tremendous history,
exciting culture, gorgeous architecture and fascinating
folklore.
As you follow the Independence Trail you will follow
the trail of Independence in the world.
The past four hundred years have not always been
pretty but they sure have been fun - we are happy you
are here to join the party.
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Welcome to our “lively experiment”!
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Why is the Rhode Island Red the symbol of Rhode Island?
One word - Innovation - From the beginning Rhode Island has been the State of Innovation.
In 1636 Rhode Island was founded by one of the world’s greatest innovators - Roger Williams
- he came up with a new kind of freedom - one where the Church and the State could no
longer double team the Individual. Samuel Slater innovated a new way to manufacture and the
Industrial Revolution was born, The Rhode Island Colonial Assembly found new ways to be
free and was first in breaking its allegiance with the King of the world’s most powerful empire.
Royal Little innovated revolutionary corporate changes, Herreshoff innovated speedier ships,
Luther Blount innovated ships that float world tourism. Brown and Sharpe innovated the tools
of a new world in manufacturing. John Hazen White pumped up our economy. Sam Walton
found his business model at Ann & Hope, the Hassenfeld Brothers created a great Monopoly,
the American drug store was reinvented by CVS, the American Diner started at Haven’s
Brothers. We are still home to America’s oldest shopping mall.
From day one Rhode Islanders have thought, sought and brought innovation to the world.
We still do it today and these emblems recognize those companies who were founded here and
those that innovate here today.
The Chicken and the Eggs - Before the Rhode Island red flocks of chickens were mostly
divided between egg layers and meat producers. Some chickens laid many eggs but were
not good meat producers. Some made a great roast for
Sunday dinner but not many eggs. In Little Compton a
hybrid was innovated and sailors happy to have just one
flock on cramped decks sailed it around the world - it
was begged, borrowed, sold and stolen and can now be
found just about everywhere on the globe. Rhode Island
is the home of some of the world’s great companies and
innovations.
Free Phone Tour 401-441-6401
Location
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1 RI Convention Center . The Dunk
RICC - Once a run down bus station now a sparkling convention
center transformed by the Providence Rennaissance. Across the street
where the Omni Hotel rises gracefully there was a huge earthen berm
fifteen feet high and a mile wide- so large it was called the Chinese wall
after the Great Wall of China. On top of that were railroad tracks
with freight cars and diesel locomotives belching fumes. It is hard to
even imagine - but all that glitters around you today was very different
not so long ago.
The Dunk - Rhode Islanders drink and consume more coffee and
coffee products that anyone on earth - how fitting that our Civic
Center next to the RI Convention Center is named for Dunkin
Donuts.
Be sure to drink some coffee milk during your visit - it is a favorite
here made by adding sweetened coffee syrup to cold milk.
2 911 Memorial . Projo
This is the only spot on the Trail where you can go in three
directions. There is a short spur to the front door of the Convention
Center. Otherwise cross the street to continue the tour.
Wall of Hope 9-11 Memorial The colorful mosaic on the wall of
the Providence Journal is part of the Wall of Hope (Hope is the state
motto.) After 9-11 it was created by over 10,000 people. More tiles are
displayed at Waterplace.
Providence Journal the state’s largest newspaper nicknamed
the ProJo was first published in 1829 and is the oldest continuously
published daily newspaper in the nation. Let’s just say that writing
about “Rogues Island” is a little like dying and going to journalism
heaven.
been home to those who try harder.
Station Park (because it is where the train station use-to-be.) Across
Dorrance Street there is a man with a gun in the park - fortunately he
is a statue erected to encourage volunteers to enlist.
Biltmore Hotel She is the best looking 90 year old in the city - the
Grand Dame of Providence hotels. The giant 3 story tall letters on
the roof are a familiar beacon to all. Be sure to step inside to see the
gilded lobby. The best views in the city are from its elegant rooftop
ballroom. Generations of Rhode Islanders have celebrated in its
Grand Ballroom it was almost torn down in the 1970’s but now under
new ownership the Grand Dame is getting the love she so deserves.
Foods you have to have
Quahog - a hard shell clam - aka Littleneck, Cherrystone best way to
eat one - raw on the half shell also in chowder, stuffed clams, clam
cakes and on pasta with clam sauce.
New York System Hot Weiner - First you will never see these in New
York. They are 17 feet long and are cut into 5 inch weiners. They
come on steamed buns with chopped onion, a dark ground meat
sauce , mustard and a shake of celery salt. cooks line them up their
forearm to apply the condiments rapid fire. They are wrapped in
wax paper and your car will smell for several days after eaing them
on your drive home.
Coffee Milk - Hershey has chocolate syrup we have Autocrat Coffee
Syrup - take a bottle home and stir a few onces into cold milk... it
also make a mean Espresso Martini
3 Biltmore Hotel -Station Park -Avis
Avis for decades the little red and white pie shaped building has
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TRIMARK IS THE COUNTRY’S LARGEST PROVIDERS OF DESIGN SERVICES,
EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES TO THE FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY.
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4 City Hall - Kennedy Plaza JFK - You are just a few feet from the spot on the City Hall steps
where John F. Kennedy gave his final campaign speech on his way
home to Cape Cod. He quoted Abraham Lincoln who spoke here
100 years earlier. Of course no one knew at the time he would be
assassinated and never campaign for President again.
City Hall - If the walls of City Hall could talk what tales they
would tell. Political machines, scandal, intrigue set in a magnificent
soaring interior of elegant gilded balconies tells the story of America
as waves of immigrants grabbed the levers of power.
Buddy - No tour of Providence could be complete without mention
of former Mayor Vincent A. Cianci, Jr. known to all by the single
name He served over two decades as Mayor and then 64 months in
a federal penitentiary. Now he is a popular talk radio host and eligible
to run for office again in 2014. Books have been written about his
exploits - we do not have space enough here - but ask any one you meet
in Providence they will tell you a Buddy story.
Havens Brother Diner - America’s original food truck since
1885- once a horse drawn cart now a tractor trailer the “Aluminum
Room” arrives at sunset and departs at sunrise feeding the denizens
of downtown. Try the hot dog “all the way”, washed down with coffee
milk and sweet dreams.
5 Civil War Memorial - Ice Rink
Soldiers and Sailors Memorial - The Civil War was fought by sword,
cannon, ships and rifles as you can tell by looking at the soldiers and
sailor flanking our Civil War memorial. Several heroic units including
our famous Black Regiment fought for the Union.
Bank of America Skating Rink - strap on some skates and get out
on the ice to experience New England winter at its best. This rink
also runs lots of warm weather activities - concerts, festivals and even
roller derby on occasion.
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6 Burnside Park
Banjnotti Fountain - She struggles to be free and this fountain
has rained down millions of tears since Paul Banjnotti comissioned it
in memory of his wife who died too young - the daughter of Nicholas
Brown of Brown University fame.
Burnside Park - The bow of the ship emerging from the ground
is the Hannah. Colonist Captain Benjamin Lindsey tricked the
Commander of a British ship the Gaspee into running agound on a
June afternoon. Later Providence colonists rowed nearly 7 miles down
Narragansett bay and attacked his Royal Majesty’s ship, The Gaspee.
Thus taking the first shot in the fight for American Independence Huzzah! Huzzah!
Winston Churchill said England and America were two countries
dvided by a common language. Colonial English is very difficult to
deciper but here is a quick lesson. Fie means no - Huzzah means
yes. When you disapprove of something call out “Fie, Fie” as in
Fe Fi Fo Fum I smell the blood of an Englishman! When you like
something shout out Huzzah! Huzzah!!
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7 Burnside’s Sideburns
Sideburns - The fact that he is remembered for
inventing sideburns tells you all you want to know about
Civil War General Ambrose Burnside upon his horse.
Not a great General but he sure looked good.
8 Lincoln Memorial
President Lincoln - His political fortunes took a
turn for the better the night he gave the famed Cooper
Union Address in New York. The next night Mr.
Lincoln spoke right here where “the train station usedto-be”.
Historians credit this tour with galvanizing support
needed to win the Republican nomination and go on
to the Presidency. Notice that he is clean shaven on
his bronze memorial on our courthouse. Lincoln was
on his way to visit his son Robert who was at school.
Federal Court - In Rhode Island “I’ve been away”
means you served a sentence in state prison. “I’ve been
out of state” means you did federal time because
although we have a federal courthouse we do not have
a federal penitentiary. Major oversight.
Over the years everyone from mafia dons to public
officials have met their fate in these courtrooms.
Some believe that if Mayor Buddy Cianci had been
exonerated in this building he would have come out
on the steps to say three words that would have keep
him serving as Mayor - “Write me in.”
9 Turks Head
Financial Plaza - Five stories below the beautiful
Howard Ben Tre fountain is one of the most secure
vaults in the world - at one time not long ago Providence
was know as the “Jewelry Capital of the world”. Tons
of gold, silver and platinum were needed. Individual
jewelry factories lacked the needed security so it was
stored here. Supposedly armored cars brimming with
bullion were lowered in a secure elevator. It descended
nearly five stories to a central vault that was very secret.
So secret that if you ask about it even today security will
deny its existence. They also deny there ever was a heist
- like Oceans 11- We would love to tell you more but if
we did then we would have to kill you.
Turks Head - Staring down on you is a very fierce
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face. The stony stare from the third story of the Turks
Head has frightened many a visitor. The first trading
post on this side of the river was marked by the carved
head of a Turk taken from a ship. In 1913 this was the
tallest building in the city .
Hurricane Warning - the bronze markers across
the plaza where “Amica Insurance used-to-be” show the
water levels the hurricanse of 1938 and 1954 reached.
Would you have survived?
Slavery
While many above the Mason Dixon Line grew
up thinking that slavery was more of a southern
phenomenon it turns out the north had a big role
also.
Only recently are historians bringing the shameful
truth to light. Rhode Island ships were a big part of the
Triangle Trade Even here in Providence the controversy divided the
Brown family - of Brown University fame with Moses
Brown a vigorous abolitionist and his brother John a
ship owner that profited from the slave voyages.
Colonial census figures also show clearly the use of
slaves in the state. A young African girl might sell for
$180 with strong men selling for $300 - $500.
Rhode Island made some notable efforts to stem
the tide - in 1782 it declared that children of slaves
were “born free’ and it eventually outlawed the sale
of slaves. The issue of outlawing the ownership of
slaves took much longer. The fact that Mr. Lincoln’s
Providence speech in 1860 and Reverend Martin
Luther Kings speech in 1960 attest to persistence of
both slavery and the prejudice that followed in its
ugly wake.
10 100 Westminster
Usually odd and even numbers are on opposite sides of a street
but here 100 Westminster crossed the street and sits next to 111
Westminster which is popularly known as the “Superman Building “.
Superman was “able to leap tall buildings in a single bound” and they
thought this looked like the building shown in his television show - it
was another building.
11 The Arcade
The oldest shopping mall in America built in 1828. The southern
end looks very different perhaps owing to a difference in opinion
between the architects as to the most classical look for the roof line.
Did they really settle the argument like children in a sandbox - you do
one end I’ll do the other - we will never know.
12 Roger Williams & Canonicus
Daniel Chester French is the American Michelangelo. He sculpted
The Lincoln Memorial in Washington DC and the Minute Man
among many other famous statues and memorials. The beautiful
life-sized work over the door of 60 Dorrance Street. depicts Roger
Williams and Indian Sachem Cannonicus who greeated him in peace
when he founded Rhode Island in 1636. Roger holds a book - he
wrote a translation of the Indian Languages. The Sachem cradles a
peace pipe but true to history they face in different directions. It is said
that Rhode Island is so small because while other states claimed vast
Indian holdings our founder would only claim what he could buy and
he did not have much money so we became the smallest state.
13 Gaebe Commons . PPAC
There are so many Dunkin Donuts in Rhode
is that people say at the first Dunkin donuts turn
at the second Dunkin Donuts and turn right at
ha. Funny except that less than two blocks from
Island the joke
left, go straight
the third. Ha
here is another
Dunkin Donuts. Regular means with cream and sugar it is not
a size and Extra Extra is double sugar double cream – yum.
The black building across the street is the Johnson and Wales
university library. It once was a television station. Further up
the street on the campus green is a fantastic looking clock tower.
It turns out that the clock tower used-to be on the roof of the
television station and was there for antennas and dishes. If the
university is 100 years old. The campus is where the Outlet usedto be - a gigantic department store with the talking Christmas tree
that fascinated rhode islanders until the building burned down in
a spectacular fire. The narrowest buildings in propensities directly
across the street the testy block measures only 10 feet wide. The
complex of buildings on the block are currently being renovated to
become apartments and restaurants.
America’s First Most Wanted
Roger Williams had been convicted in Boston . His crime
seems bizarre today - he had been found guilty of preaching for
the separation of church and state, freedom of conscience and
tolerance of minorities. All values that a century and a half later
would become the foundation for the United States. He had been
warned the authorities were coming for him so he fled in a blizzard
(some say as a true Rhode Islander he was just going out for bread
and milk and lost his way). He was a man on the lam when he found
sanctuary and named this place Providence. It has been a haven for
“otherwise mindedness” ever since.
The freedom loving folks up in Boston did rescind Roger’s conviction
- they but first they waited to see how all his “radical “ ideas about
freedom would work out - after 300 years they were pretty certain
that the were going to work and MAssachusetts officially pardoned
him. It only took three centuries but Roger Williams is no longer a
wanted man.
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Don’t just tour history
Dine in it.
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America’s
Oldest
French Bistro
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14 The Arcade
The south facade of the arcade is completely different from
the north facade. Perhaps as the result of an argument between
the two architects. The building is undergoing a transition, one
of the many that has occurred in its life which started in 1828. If
the building is open be sure to go in and gaze at the magnificent
architecture especially the 200 foot long glass roof and the wrought
iron balconies.
15 The Custom House
Looking at Weybosset Street from here you can see it makes a
hard curve and then swings off in the opposite direction. From
ancient times Native Americans walked the Pequot Path. It was
the interstate highway of the Indian nation. The path swerved
to go around a huge sand dune. Through all the upgrades
to a city street no one ever decided to straighten the road.
The lone facade held up by steel girders puzzles everyone.
Preservationists worked to save the facade which was going to be
part of a new 40 story building. During the economic collapse the
project stopped. The facade remains and eventually will become
part of a new building. The culture of preservation in providence
has saved thousands of buildings even if sometimes it looks a little
odd in the process.
16 Pot au Feu
The historic Wilcox building houses the Pot au Feu restaurant
which in the interest of full disclosure is owned by the founder of the
Independence Trail. It was a favorite of Julia child and is worth a visit.
Looking up to the top of the Industrial Trust which it is the old classic
looking skyscraper. For a long time people was the building used in the
Superman television show. Remember that Superman could leap tall
buildings in a single bound. Just below the large light to the right you
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can see a railing. Next to that he is a gray box like room with windows.
That is believed to be a blimp station. It was planned that zeppelin’s
would carry people from city to city and dock at skyscrapers. That never
came to pass the because the Hindenburg zeppelin exploded in flames
ending the era of zeppelin travel. The blimp station was designed for
passengers waiting for the next blimp to arrive. Could be a long wait.
Next to the blimp station you can see a tiny falcons nest. The falcons
had dozens of hungry young fledglings over the years. That explains
why you see so few pigeons in Providence. Listen for their distinctive
call. You may even see one make a spectacular dive and capture
another bird in midair. The most likely place to spot one is on the
corner of a roof where they like to perch and search the sky for prey.
• Fresh New England
Seafood
•Great Steaks
• French Specialties
How We Got Our Name
Some say the explorer Verrazano was reminded of the Isle of
Rhodes when he sailed up Narragansett Bay. Others think our
nickname “Rogues’ Island” was morphed into Rhode Island. It is hard
to argue that is is entirely unearned. Ask a historian where Lt. William
Dudingston was shot and they will tell you “on Narragansett Bay”.
Ask a Rhode Island schoolboy - “Where was Dudingston shot? and he
will answer “In the groin” - both are equally accurate but one clearly
more memorable. So it goes throughout our history - it is said George
Washington was so frustrated with our slowness to sign the Constitution
he threatened invasion - only deciding against it when he realized that
the neighboring states of Massachusetts and Connecticut would not
take whole or even half of Rhode Island. Lincoln Stephens reported
we were a “state for sale - cheap.” More recently we were know as the
home of “New England crime boss” Raymond Patriarca and movies
like “The Departed” nodded to the viciousness of Providence’s Mafia.
The state’s political class has contributed generously to the roguish
behavior. our fair share of politicians who serve their term and then
served a second term. The problem is the first term is in office the
Dinner 7 nights a week
44 Custom House Street Providence
401.273.8953 • potaufeuri.com
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17 Memorial Boulavard
Looking down Custom House Street you can see an
enormous dome on top of the custom house. The very
top of the dome is enclosed in glass which enabled customs
agents to watch over the entire harbor and get down to
collect fees and tariffs on the docks before any goods could
be unloaded from the many ships arriving from around
the world. The parking lot next to the building was once
known as Long Wharf and ships docked here. Later it
was filled in.
18 Irish Famine Memorial
This is the entrance to the Irish Famine memorial.
Rhode Island’s history is the history of immigration.
Today people of Irish ancestry account for about one fifth
of the state’s population. The Irish go back and forth with
Italians for the title of largest ethnic group in the state.
The memorial is a somber tribute. The account of the
coffin ships is especially interesting.
19 WaterFire
Artist Barnaby Evans has burned bonfires on the river
in a now world famous art event that began in 1994.
A magnificent combination of fire, water, music and
community WaterFire is a must-see signature event. www.
waterfire.org for schedule. At one time we were crazy
enough to completely cover the river over with a parking
bridge. During the Providence renaissance the rivers were
reopened and the old bridge piers now hold braziers that
burn bonfires during Waterfire.Looking down river you
can see the remains of Interstate 195 which was relocated
to the blue bridge in the distance. The large tracts of land
opened up by the relocation are now being redeveloped.
20 The Gaspee Memorial
If you had been standing here on this waterfront on
the night of June 9, 1772 you would have witnessed a
large group of colonists climbing into longboats getting
ready to row almost 7 miles down the bay in total
darkness. Their mission was to attack a stranded British
ship. The Gaspee had been harassing colonists out on
Narragansett Bay in the name of the King of England.
Having had enough over 60 Providence colonists
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surrounded the Gaspee. They called the captain William
Dudingston on deck and shot him. The raiders took
the sailors captive and then destroyed the Gaspee by
burning it to the waterline. And of course this being
Rhode Island Dudingston had been shot in the groin
- he survived but may have wished that he had not.
The first shot in the fight for independence had been
fired, the first blood drawn. It would take Bostonians
18 months to throw tea not belonging to the King into
the harbor.
Just a Minute, Man!
Boston and Providence have long had something
of a “big brother - little brother” relationship and
the claim to First Shot- First Blood in the Revolution
is contested - not that you would ever know that
listening to Boston’s boasts. We would never say that
the first four letters of Bunker Hill are “bunk” but let’s
just say if the history books had been written at Brown
instead of Harvard we all might think quite differently
about the Attack of the Gaspee which happened
about 18 months ahead of the Boston Tea Party.
The three things the Rhode Island colonists
did that night would be considered acts of war
“causus belli” - the shooting of a Naval officer,
capturing sailors and burning a naval vessel.
Take the case to any court or tribunal in any age - from
ancient Athens to the world Court and the answer
is these were acts of war. And now consider Boston
where about 150 colonists disguised as Indians threw
tea, not belonging to the King in the harbor. Imagine
being there when the King was told one of his officers
was shot, his sailors captured and his ship destroyed imagine his fury. Now tell him that tea that he did not
own had been thrown into Boston harbor by Indians or maybe not Indians - perhaps colonists dressed up as
Indians. If you were sitting on the throne at Buckingham
Palace it would be pretty clear which ones were acts of
war. No doubt the Bostonians heard about the brave
acts in Providence and how the people of Providence
bonded in silence defying the Inquisition the King sent
to punish the perpetrators. No doubt that gave them
courage 18 months later when they were brewing the
21 The Sabin Tavern
The granite memorial at this spot commemorates
the Sons of Liberty who attacked the British ship the
Gaspee on the night of June 9, 1772. This is the spot
where the Sabin Tavern used to be. Back then most
people did not have offices they conducted business
in taverns and coffeehouses - like Starbucks today.
The town crier had been sent out earlier in the
day when it was learned the Gaspee had run
aground on a sandbar in Narragansett Bay
while chasing the Providence ship – “Hannah”.
Just up the hill at the top of Planet Street is the home of
the John Brown one of the best known of Providence’s
early colonists. His house is now home to the Rhode
Island Historical Society and is well worth a visit and tour.
Brown and his fellow colonists debated in the tavern.
Should they use this opportunity to attack the British
empire? No doubt they drank up a good deal of
Rhode Island courage, Providence was home to many
rum distilleries. Eventually they decided to make the
attack before the rising tide the freed the Gaspee. The
first shot in the Revolution would be fired that night.
When we hear that Boston was the first shot we say “Just a
minute, man.” The history books were written in Boston
but now you know the true story, taking the bunk out of
Bunker Hill.
22 Paul Revere’s Bell
Looking up to the beautiful colonial church steeple on
the hill you may be lucky enough to hear it’s bell ringing.
The bell is the largest and heaviest bell ever cast by Paul
Revere’s foundry.
23 Old Stone Bank
Across the street is the Old Stone Bank. Back before the
FDIC banks competed by showing off how wealthy and
solid they were. The bankers at Old Stone decided that
rubbing gold all over their roof was a good way to do that.
Imagine going to work and saying to your boss - “Let’s
rub gold all over our building to show how rich we are.”
24 Washington Slept Here
Take a walk up Hopkins Street to the little red
house and you will finally be at a place “where George
Washington slept”. Stephen Hopkins, his host was one of
the few signers of both the Declaration of Independence
and the US Constitution. One of Washington’s most
important visits came less than a month before we
declared Independence on May 4, 1776 before any of the
other colonies. Since they were plotting treason the details
are secret but Washington must have been spinning with
revolutionary dreams when he put his head on the pillow.
25 Memorial Park
Memorial Park contains our World War I and World
War II memorials along with the Korean War and a
memorial to Verrazano who explored here in 1524 not
long after Columbus in 1492. Across the street is our
Supreme Court and Superior Court – it was the first court
with a Ladies Room marking the changing role of women
when it was built in the 1920’s.
Size Matters
When it comes to small nobody is bigger than Rhode
Island. The biggest little state in the nation proudly
wears its smallness. Small has been big here since
our founding. It was by design not accident. Other
states thought that the rights of natives American’s
were superseeded by their claims and simply grabbed
as much land as they wanted. One story is that states
thought that their western boundries extended out as
far as there was land - not knowing that the Pacific Ocean
was a little further than they knew. Roger Williams
believed that the land had to be bought fairly . He was
a minister and the meager size of his landholdings was
comensurate with his meager purse. Rhode Island is all
of 1014 square miles. Smaller than some Texas ranches.
Rhode Islanders revel in being small the way Texans
swagger about being big. At 32 miles by 52 miles it is
easy to get from one end of the state to the other in less
than an hour. So you would assume that in such a small
place every one has visited ever corner of the state to the contrary we balk at travelling even the shortest
distances - it is a quirky contradiction . A single area
code covers the entire state. We also love that we are
a unit of measure used to compare everything from the
size of huricanes and wildfires to pieces that break off
the artic ice shelf. What other state is a unit of measure?
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hurricane and blizzard since 1774.
26 Providence Tea Party - Knights Templar
30 Watch Your Step!
Conspiracy theorists will find this a very interesting
site. The Market House used to be two stories
and was our town hall. A third story was added
to become a Masonic Temple. Look at the bronze
plaque and see that the First Order of the Knights
Templar in North America made its home here.
Boston
was
not
the
only
Tea
Party.
Check out the wall plaque commemorating the night
Providence colonists conspired to defy the throne and
burn tea in protest on March 5, 1776.
27 RISD Museum
The RISD Museum is one of the most amazing small
museums in the nation. Here you are at the epicenter
of the RISD campus surrounded by studios, museum,
galleries, art stores and dorms.
With beautiful
permanent collections and many exhibits and shows
it is a treasure trove of art. The original historic wing
has a European feel and the new modern wing – The
Chace Center is as hip as it gets – just ask any of the art
students tromping through here carrying projects on
their way to classes and studio.
28 Double Barreled Tunnels
The double barreled tunnels are our bus tunnel. College
Hill once had a cable car but in 1914 the city bored a
tunnel because it was too steep for trolleys and busses. Just
up the hill is RISD “Beach” a small patch of grass that
attracts hundreds of sun bathing students as soon as it
gets warm every spring.
29 First Baptist Church
The First Baptist Church sign is seen all over the
world but this is the First - First Baptist Church –
founded by Roger Williams in 1638 – he quit a few
years later because his religious beliefs had undergone
some changes – that is why he insisted that tolerance in
religious concernments was so essential to individuals.
Over the years many church steeples were blown over
in hurricanes but never this one – it was built by the
shipbuilders of Boston who were out of work when the
British blockaded the harbor – they always had the power
of storms in mind so this steeple has withstood every
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Across the street is a front door on the second story
of a building – that is because it was easier to raise
the building to add another floor than to cut all new
rafters by hand when raising the roof. Watch your step!
Another Tunnel is near here. Above the huge concrete
abutment is a railroad tunnel that goes all the way
under the Eastside. There are many rumors of tunnels
under Providence - slave tunnels, secret tunnels,
passageways and hidden chambers. It all seems to
circle around Edgar Allen Poe, HP Lovecraft, slavery and
the Knights Templar.
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Roger was so robust that at the age of 75 he
rowed a boat to Newport to debate the Quakers
and then rowed back more than 50 miles in all.
Across the street up the hill to the left behind the
church is a historic burial ground that is weel worth
touring – please do not touch the delicate headstones.
36 Olde Providence
31 Roger Williams Memorial
Gateway to the Roger Williams Memorial. Of course the smallest
state would have one of the nation’s smallest national memorials –
but it is huge in importance – this is where freedom of religion was
established in America. Most importantly we have real US Park
Rangers just like Yellowstone and Yosemite.
32 Providence Preservation Society
The red building across the street is home to the Providence
Preservation Society which is responsible for having saved the historic
buildings of Providence. In warmer seasons it gardens are a perfect
spot for a picnic purchased at Geoff ’s just up on Benefit Street.
The One Room Schoolhouse has a great history and was
used for early classes by Brown University and was home
to an early school to educate African American students.
Next to the firehouse is a memorial to the first responders who went to
the world trade center on the day of the 9-11 attack.
33 Armory
Although the Independence Trail turns a corner here you
can continue up meeting street to the best of you in the entire
city. Kleinman the oddly placed stone staircase at D island
of meeting street. Turn left on to Congdon street and in one
block you will find prospect terrace which has a beautiful
memorial to roger Williams and expansive view of the entire city.
This is Benefit Street Providence’s Mile of Historic Homes that went
from being some of the worse slums in the city to its toniest address.
So exclusive that residents did not want the Trail on its sidewalks. So
enjoy the few blocks of green line up here and feel free to explore the
entire street it really is the nations best collection of historic homes
dating back to the founding.
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34 The Old State House
The Old State House give you the chance to visit the room
where Colonists first broke allegiance with England. (no there is
not a transporter to Philadelphia) Imagine being asked to agree
to never say our Pledge of Allegiance again. On May 4, 1776
the Colonial Assembly of Rhode Island did just that voting to
not pledge allegiance to the King. It was like burning the flag.
A mighty stroke for independence and two months later the rest of the
colonies not doubt inspired by Rhode Island signed the Declaration
of Independence.
You are now in the oldest settlement of Providence.
The original plots of land granted to the early settlers by
Roger Williams we very narrow and thin running from
the cove (now a canal) on the other side of the Roger
Williams Memorial all the way up College Hill. That
gave each settler access to the water, shoreline and fishing.
Rhode
Island’s
Constituton
still
guarantees
the right of every citizen to go to the shore to
collect seaweed.
(It was a valued fertilizer).
Imagine dreaming of being a US Park Ranger riding
the range on horseback and the being assigned to ride a
(John) Deere tractor cutting grass in Providence instead.
The good news is that our troop of rangers are the best
there are and they can tell you the story of the founding
of Rhode Island here at the Roger Williams National
Memorial.
37 Roger Williams Spring
When Roger Williams arrived here he was a wanted
man on the run from the Puritans who convicted him. (
A puritan is a person who is haunted by the thought that
someone, somewhere in the world is having fun right now.)
He was convicted for preaching freedom of conscience,
tolerance of minorities and separation of church and state.
Roger thought that being independent was tough enough
without being double teamed by a combination of
church and state so he decreed that in Providence they
would be separate and its been that way every since.
The Founding Fahters incorporated his ideas when the
founded the United States a hundred and fifty years later
38 Headquarters & Graveyard
Rhode Foods
One of the things we are proudest of is our food.
Travel & Leisure Magazine named Providence the top
Restaurant city in America. Our food is a mix of our
colonial roots, the waves of immigrants that washed
up on our shores and the waves of our bay and ocean
which provide a bounty of delicious seafood including
lobsters, crabs, squid, finfish and shellfish like quahogs,
steamers, mussels and oysters. We have quite a number
of foods you are unlikely to see anywhere else. Our
obsession with all things coffee is unique. The names
we give foods are unusual - gaggers, sinkers, dynamites,
cabinets and grinders all describe edibles. We consume
more coffee and coffe products than anyone on the
planet. Coffee ice cream, cofee milk, milk coffee are
allpart of our tradition. In a melting pot as small as ours
it would seem easy for the cuisine to have blended
and melded but once again counterintuitively culinary
tradtions have remained unblended . Italian, French,
Portugese, Irish, Dominican, Asian, Ethiopian retain
their distinct and vibrant identies. Our front door is the
ocean. Our ships and sailors found heir way to every
port of call on the globe and returned with spices,
recipes and ingredients that make this a dining mecca
and foodie heaven.
The way Roger escaped from freedom’s Neanderthals
back in Boston was by coming on Indian lands beyond
the reach of the Massachusetts authorities. He was
welcomed by the Sachem Conanicus of the Narragansett
Tribe which is still an important part of Rhode to this day.
To be fair Massachusetts did finally rescind the conviction –
after 300 years the legislature voted to drop the charges and
reverse the conviction – land of the free, home of the brave.
Roger did not believe in claiming land so he bought
it and the tribe granted him this fine piece of
real estate with shoreline and a nice spring with
good water. He farmed and fished and prospered.
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and those who prefer West Bay Johnnycakes. The east
are made thin and lacey with milk in the batter - the
West made with water are thick and crispy outside soft
in the center. There are all kinds of rules about not using
syrup and butter but they are best ignored. Try them if
you can find them.
42 Olde Providence
On the North entablature of the building there are
inscriptions recording some of the most important dates
in the history of Rhode Island especially today a Rhode
Island before any other colony declared independence
from Great Britain May 4, 1776. If the building is open
walk-through and tour marvelous sculpture and artworks.
If our legislature is in session there are beautiful galleries
that overlook the House and Senate chambers. Just
remember the old adage that there are two things you
may not want to watch being made sausage and laws
31 Where The Moose Drink
Moshassuck - from the Indian - “where the moose drink”. Now
a canal along Canal Street it is unlikely any moose will stop b for a
drink. The river once provided power to mills along its banks. The
water is cleaner now that the mills are gone. It was once treated as an
open sewer. In the 1800’s the power of the rivers drove the looms of
America’s Industrial Revolution. Textile fortunes were made as mighty
waterwheels powered the machinery in places such as Samuel Slater’s
Mill in nearby Pawtucket. The remaining evidence of the mills can
be found looking north to the brick buildings and smoke stack which
stands so close to the river its foundation is set in the water. The
immense wealth created by the industrial revolution helps explain
how a little state built such a huge and opulent State House. Raging
fires destroyed most of the mills in this area. A little further along as
the hill rises is the Northeast Corridor of Amtrak. This railway which
was moved to its current location just a few years ago used to run right
through the middle of Providence. Without the change in location the
construction of hotels and condos that you now see would never have
happened.
32 The State House Dome
As your legs are telling you Providence has some hills. In all there
are 7 like Rome to be accurate – Smith Hill which you are now on.
College or Prospect Hill is across the river and logically is home to
Brown University. Federal Hill you cannot see from here but is our
Little Italy. Weybosset Hill was leveled to make way for downtown.
The rest are Constitution Hill, Tockwotten Hill and Christian Hill on
the westside.
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33 The Independent Man
The breathtaking view of the State House (1902) owes to
the fact that Providence was the wealthiest city in America
when it was built. The Dome is said to be the fourth largest
unsupported marble dome in the world putting it in the company
of St. Peter’s in Rome the Taj Mahal and the US Capitol.
The Independent Man is the statue on top of the dome. With spear in
hand he is the official guardian of the state and the unofficial symbol
of the Independence Trail. He has been a lonely bachelor for over a
century so if you come from a state with an eligible statue let us know.
43 Roger Williams Spring
From the east terrace of the state house you can see the
whole of College Hill with its many beautiful restored
historic homes. The silver dome at the foot of the lawn
is the train station and tracks that replaced the berm and
tracks that had previously divided the city. A close look
will reveal the massive statue of Roger Williams gazing
over the city. To the south is our pretty little skyline that
includes the “Superman building” and the historic grand
Biltmore Hotel. Rumor has it the hotel had to take steps
to prevent college kids from trying to have the BigO in the
big O.
44 Headquarters & Graveyard
Here on the south entablature are the words from
our Royal Charter granted by King Charles starting our
“lively experiment” – if he had any idea it would lead
to such rebelliousness in the future he no doubt would
have had second thoughts.
More grist for the mill - The colonists learned about
corn and cornmeal from the Native Americans. A close
cousin of the Jonnycake is the Clamcake. This delicious
ball of deep fried corn meal is lovingly referred to
as a sinker. After eating three or four with a bowl of
chowda you will understand. Clamcakes are made
from a cornmeal batter to which chopped clams have
been added all too often parsimoniously. Spoonfuls
of the batter are deep fried to golden perfection. They
are best served with chowder (chowda) which comes
in three varities - Creamy because of the milk or cream
added to it, Red - because of the tomato added to it
or Clear (Johnntrue Rhode Island) - which stays pure by
adding nothing to the salty chowder broth.
If you would like to start an arguement with a Rhode
Islander suggest talking about the Yankees and Red
Sox over a meal of East or West Bay Jo(h)nnycakes with
Chowda and Clamcakes (Creamy, Clear, Red) followed
by Saugys or Hot Weiners while deciding whether to
drink coffee milk, Del’s Lemonade or a Narragansett
Lager - it should make for a full on brouhaha. Bon Apetit!
By the way indegestion is oft refered to as agita - as in
‘you are giving me agita.’ Another word not appropriate
to a family publication is often added before -agita.
Johnny Johnnie Cake - A 1937 state regulation rules
that if white flint corn is grown and stone ground
within the borders of Rhode Island then that corn meal
is entitled to the name Jonnycake. All other meal being
somehow deficient in complying with the edict shall be
known by the addition of the letter “H” - Johnnycake. It
is Rhode Island’s version of the Scarlet Letter.
If that isn’t confusing enough such a little place should
have one one way to make the signature dish - but the
are two camps those who make East Bay Jonnycakes
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It turns out he died for a crime he did not commit. In
the 1850’s Rhode Island became the second state to ban
capital punishment – a ban that last to this day. In 2012
John Gordon was pardoned officially by the Governor of
Rhode Island
45 Nathaniel & Oliver - Heroes
Here you see heroes – the statue of Nathaniel Greens
second in command to George Washington himself and
Oliver Hazard Perry hero of the Battle of Lake Eire in
the War of 1812. More recently the Heroes Garden on
the west lawn commemorates the valor and bravery of
the Rhode Islanders who gave their lives in the Iraq war.
First on the list is Greg Belanger a fine young man who
worked as a cook for me and met his sweet wife who Tara
who also worked for us. He put country and family above
all and we all need to thank him and every other person
on every other memorial in Providence and beyond for
what they gave so that we are independent and free.
46 Providence Place Mall
Another of the symbols of the Providence Renaissance
is the thriving Providence Place Mall. For years
shopping had moved out to the suburbs but now
Providence Place draws shoppers back to the capital city.
Just up the hill is the luxurious Renaissance Hotel. The
story of how it was built started back in the 1920’s when
construction was started on a massive Masonic temple.
Work was completed on the exterior walls and the roof was
being completed. Suddenly one day all the workmen left
– never to return. In a state where everyone knows all the
secrets nobody ever had an explanation for what happened.
Over the next 75 years the building became a ruin –
boarded up it resisted every effort to develop it. Finally
after the arrival of the new millennium work was
begun on a new appropriately named Renaissance
Hotel. Today the original massive columns of the
masonic temple give it a grandeur and classical styling.
Next door is the Vets, a magnificent performing arts
center. Be sure to check their schedule for everything
from ballet to philharmonic performances.
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47 Hanging an Innocent Man
An innocent man died where you are standing. On
Valentine’s Day 1845 John Gordon was hung from a
gallows here. This was then the state prison. Gordon
had been convicted of murdering a prosperous Yankee.
As an Irish immigrant he was looked down upon and
the Judge in his case prejudiced the jury against him.
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beautiful statuary, inspiring fountains, memorials and a
building Superman would have loved to leap over. If
you like Providence enough you can even buy one of the
Residences at the Westin and make our wonderful state
your new home.
48 Waterplace Park
Waterplace park is the crown jewel of the river
relocation project. Its basin is home to WaterFire
the extraordinary art spectacle created by Barnaby
Evans.
What was once divided by the railroad
is now joined into a beautiful urban water park.
The Woonasquatucket River may well be the most
bridged river in the world – it is crossed here by more
than twenty separate bridges – foot bridges, railroad
bridges, interstate highway bridges, city bridges,
mall promenades and parking decks. The bridge
you are standing on is the Reverend Martin Luther
King Bridge. From this bridge you can look to the
east and see the Carrie Tower on Brown University’s
campus where Reverend King spoke on November
9, 1960 the day John F. Kennedy won the Presidency.
Coincidently both men had spoken in Providence within
two days of each other – imagine having heard two of the
world’s greatest orators back to back in Providence.
49 Providence Visitors Bureau
The glittering headquarters of GTech houses the
Providence Warwick Convention & Visitors Bureau.
They have complete information on all the best to
do in Providence from dining, lodging, shopping to
entertainment, history, conventions and meetings they
can connect you with everything you need to enjoy your
stay. www.goprovidence.com
50 Kennedy Plaza
Kennedy Plaza The heart of Providence is the plaza.
It is the gateway to our historic financial district, home
to City Hall and the historic Federal Courthouse. It is a
crossroads for travelers coming and going on our RIPTA
in-state buses and interstate coaches like Megabus and
Peter Pan. It is a good place to find a cab, late night
food or a comfortable bed at the Biltmore, Omni or
Courtyard Hotels. Our Convention Center is here and
there is an entrance to the mall that takes you over our
Yellow Skybridge. The bridge is the work of Frederich
St. Florian an inspired local architect who also designed
our nation’s World War II Memorial in Washington DC.
Kennedy Plaza is home to our Skating Rink, lovely parks,
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First to Separate last to Join
Its not that Rhode Island does play well with others but
we have a history of following the beat of a different
drummer. Bill Edwards a great barrister once said that
to understand Rhode Island you needed to know that
we are “otherwise minded”. He gave this explanation
- if given a choice of A, B or C the Rhode Islander will
invariably pick F and later change to G. Our otherwise
mindedness made us think differently and was a key to
the success that we achieved by seeing problems and
their solutions just a little differently.
This helps explain why Rhode Island broke with
England two months before the rest of the 13 Colonies.
On May 4, 1776 our Colonial Assembly voted to no
longer pledge allegiance to the King - imagine never
saying the Pledge of Allegiance again. That’s why we
celebrate our Independence Day on May 4 and July 4.
Now one would assume that the first colony out would
be the first to sign the new constitution - in fact Rhode
Island refused for two years. It turns out that all the way
back in 1663 King Charles had given us some personal
freedoms that the original constitution did not include.
That meant that we would be giving up freedoms by
signing. Finally the freedoms were added in the form
of the Bill of Rights and on May 29, 1790 we became
part of the United States. Astrologically speaking
that makes Rhode Island a Gemini and reading our
horoscope makes it clear that where our otherwise
mindedness comes from.
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Accommodations
Christopher Dodge House
Bed & Breakfast
11 West Park St.
401-351-6111
www.providence-hotel.com
Courtyard by Marriott
32 Exchange Terrace
401-272-1191
www.marriott.com
Crown Plaza Hotel
801 Greewich Ave
401-732-6000
Edgewood Manor
Bed & Breakfast
Hampton Inn & Suites
58 Weybosset St.
855-271-3622
Hilton Providence
21 Atwells Ave.
401-831-3900
Hotel Dolce Villa
63 DePasquale Square
401-383-7031
Hotel Providence
139 Mathewson St.
401-861-8000
Nylo
Old Court
Bed & Breakfast
144 Benefit St.
401-751-2002
Omni Providence
One West Exchange St.
401-598-8000
Providence Biltmore Hotel
11 Dorrance St
401-421-0700
Providence Mariott
One Orms St.
401-272-2400
Renaissance Providence
5 Avenue of the Arts
401-919-5000
www.marriott.com
Wyndam Garden
220 India St.
401-272-5577
Pizzeria’s
Caserta Pizzeria
121 Spruce St. PVD
401-621-3618
www.casertapizza.com
Minervas
Hope Street Pizza
Antonio’s Pizza
256 Thayer St., PVD
401-455-3600
www.antoniospizza.com
Pizza Pie-er
374 Wickenden St., PVD
401-351-3663
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www.pizzapie-er.com
Fellini Pizzeria
166 Wickenden St., PVD
401-751-6737
www.fellinipizzeria.com
Bob and Timmy’s
32 Spruce St., PVD
401-453-2221
www.bobandtimmys.com
Providence Pizza Company
767 Westminster St., PVD
401-331-1030
www.providencepizzacom.com
Sicilia’s Pizza
181 Atwells Ave., PVD
401-273-9222
www.mysiciliaspizza.com
Providence Coal Fired Pizza
385 Westminster St., PVD
401-454-7499
providencecoalfirepizza.com
Wine & Spirits
Acme Liquors
1023 Chalkstone Ave.
401-274-2337
Axtons Branch Ave Liquors
650 Branch Ave.
401-831-3394
Bottles Fine Wines & Craft Beer
Campus Fine Wines
127 Brook St.
401-621-9650
www.campusfinewines.com
City Liquors
1285 N. Main St.
401-831-2337
www.riliquor.com
Eno Fine Wines
225 Westminster St.
401-521-2000
www.enofinewines.com
Gasbarros
361 Atwells Ave.
401-421-4170
High Spirits Liquor
559 N. Main St.
401-274-4790
Murphy’s Liquors
219 Academy Ave.
401-831-9284
Nikki’s Liquors
33 Smithfield Rd.
401-861-9006
www.nikkisliquors.com
Nocera’s Liquor Store
969 Smith St.
401-421-8767
Solitto’s Liquor Store
905 Narragansett Blvd.
401-781-2260
Spiritus Fermenti
220 Meeting St.
401-273-1999
Standard Liquors
829 Eddy St.
401-941-9605
www.standardliquors.net
Swan Liquor
806 Hope St.
401-421-5760
Wayland Square Fine Wine
210 Wayland Ave
401-351-9463
Accommodations
Christopher Dodge House
Bed & Breakfast
11 West Park St.
401-351-6111
www.providence-hotel.com
Courtyard by Marriott
32 Exchange Terrace
401-272-1191
www.marriott.com
Crown Plaza Hotel
801 Greewich Ave
401-732-6000
Edgewood Manor
Bed & Breakfast
Hampton Inn & Suites
58 Weybosset St.
855-271-3622
Hilton Providence
21 Atwells Ave.
401-831-3900
Hotel Dolce Villa
63 DePasquale Square
401-383-7031
Hotel Providence
139 Mathewson St.
401-861-8000
Nylo
Old Court
Bed & Breakfast
144 Benefit St.
401-751-2002
Omni Providence
One West Exchange St.
401-598-8000
Providence Biltmore Hotel
11 Dorrance St
401-421-0700
Providence Mariott
One Orms St.
401-272-2400
Renaissance Providence
5 Avenue of the Arts
401-919-5000
www.marriott.com
Wyndam Garden
220 India St.
401-272-5577